Tlie Irish Tourist. ]29

Murray, on the banks of the Shannon, and perhaps a
few others — but from the best information I could col-
lect, and from, at least, a tolerably correct knowledge
of the county, I have concluded that the circle here
marked out for the stranger's information, encloses
within it, by far a larger portion of its property and
beauty, than any other circle, which the pen of the
writer, or pencil of the painter could depict.

Having discharged my landlady and her bill, I bid
farewell to Castletown Dclvin, and after a fruitless ap-
plication to a noble lord, proceeded to Rosmead, the
seat of Henr}- W. Wood, Esq. to whose patronage E
had been previously recommended ,by the worthy mi-
nister of his parish. It may, perhaps, look like offering
incense at the shrine of wealth, to mention the impressioa
which the condescending carriage and benevolent manners
of this gentleman (and others of his rank and character)
have made upon my mind, and the peculiar force which
their virtues derived from being placed in contrast with the
numerous less useful characters which surround them —
but such comparisons as these will force themselves upon
the thinking faculty, and nature, in despite of reason,
will sometimes form strong conclusions — When we see, in
the countenance and carriage of any man, great or small,
(but particularly in the higher circles from whence digni-
fied virtue sheds its benign influence upon humble merit
with peculiar effect ) the charactcrisiical marks of reflection
and a benevolent mind — their evidence is not easily re-
sisted — greater evidence than this, is to be sure, every
day resisted by inveterate prejudice ^ but as I had no pre-
possession of this kind, I felt myself open to the im-

jiression which ?^Ir. Wood's apneriraiicc and flomeanor
i



130 The Irish Tourist.

were calculated to produce upon a mind not wholly des-
titute of feeling and perception. This man of fortune
and good family, bore in his appearance and manners, the
marks of a character, which of all others under heaven I
most admire, that of a christian gentleman — I need say
no more — may he persevere in the faith and virtues of
this character, until he arrive within view of that country,
where the christian " rests from his labors and his works
follow him."

The mansion-house of Rosmead, which occupies a

commanding position, is situate about two miles north

of Castletown Delvin, in an open and highly improved

country, and the extensive demesne which surrounds it

is completely in the stile of modern improvement. As

you approach this object from Castletown Delvin, at

the junction of two roads within about a mile of the

house, the left wing of the pleasure grounds beautifully

planted, first salutes you ; and when you have turned ta

the right and rode a little forward, an open view of that

portion of the demesne which surrounds the approach to

the house, ar>d of a neat porter's lodge, sheltered in a

stripe of meadow just opposite, apprize you of your

proximity to the mansion-house of Rosmead — This little

lodge, which, in proportioa to its size, had as perfect

marks of neatness and architectural skill as the lordly

edifice on the lordly ground above it, was not likely to

escape the notice of a man, who having been chiefly

acquainted with little comforts, v/as therefore greatly

pleased with the idea of comfortable liviag in the valley

— the sheltered stripe of meadow on which this lodge

stands (not immediately on the road side as is usual, but



The Irish Tourist » 131

at a little distance from it) did not, we can assure the
reader, lessen its beauty, or the author's interest in the
more ample scenery before him.

The approach through the avenue to the house, indi-
cates the open and hospitable temper of the owner.
There is no gate to obstruct your passage — the avenue
sweeps from the public road through the demesne, and
conducts you without interruption to the mansion-house.
This beautiful modern edifice stands, as we have just
noticed, in a good position, and of course commands
an agreeable prospect of the neighborhood — it looks
down on a little river at the foot of the lawn, which
although an object of small magnitude, contributes by
its meandring current to beautify the prospect; while to
the stately steed and lowing heifer on its margin, it
presents, as it rolls along, its nectarious fluid, and by
its plaintive purling music, charms to composure the
cares of the weary peasant, who on the evening of a
" harvest home" courts rest and silence on its grassy
banks.

From Mr. Wood's house I rode to Sir Hugh O'Reilly's
(now Sir Hugh Nugent) of Ballinlough, a baronet of
ancient family, and indeed a man of friendly and hospi-
table manners, if I may judge by my own experience —
neither of these gentlemen were under the necessity of
resorting to that supercilious hauteur to maintain their
rank, which, in cases totally unnecessary, is resorted to
as the strong hold of weak and little minds, whose igno-
rance and want of discernment, saps the foundation of
that consequence which they tremble to support. Truly
great men, on the contrary, knowing that their conse-
quence is best supported by the discharge of those
I 2



I



13^ The Irish Tourist.

duties which devolve upon them as distinguished citizens
and christians, feel no fear — they rest not then: strength
upon the outworks of society, which^ as forming a bul- ',
wark against the assaults of anarchy and insolence, arc
necessary to be supported ; but it is from adherence to
the watch-word of the celebrated Nelson to his country
in the hour of her danger, that every man of every rank
must derive permanent support.*

The castle and demesne of Ballinlough, had an ap-
pearance of antiquity highly gratifying to my feelings ;^
(while the house and demesne of Rosmead. seemed dis-
tinguished by the beauties of modern improvement) I
reined in my horse within a few perches of the grand *;
gate of Ballinlough to take a view of the castle : it stand* ;
on a little eminence above a lake which beautifies the de-
mesne ; and not only the structure of the castle, but tbc
appearance of the trees, and even the dusky colour of ^
the gate and walls, as you enter, contribute to give tbe ■ ^
whole scenery an appearance of antiquity, while the
prospect is calculated to infuse into the heart of the be-
holder, a mixed sentiment of veneration and delight. -
The reader has been already informed, that the little ex-
cursions we have been describing were performed in the
gloomy month of December : a month pot quite so fa.



* " England expects every man to do his duty'- — AdnjiraT
Lord Nelson's watch-word to the British Navy at the battle of
Trafalgar, where just as he had obtained a decisive victory over
the combined fleets of France and Spain, he fell covered with
wounds, and with the plaudits of his country. His remain!
were interred with great pomp at VVcstminster Abbey ; anda ^^,,
splendid pillar has been erected to his memory in Sackville-
strcct^ Dublin, by the Irish people.



r



r



I



The Irish Tourist, 133

Tourable as some others for the sketching of light airy-
landscapes, because the painter's eye and the poet*s
imagination must be more or less influenced by the
•CAson — but should these be called upon, to make the
beauties of Ballinlough the subject of their canvas and
tlicir song, let them choose that season of the year in
-which we arc now writing for the performance of their
laik ; a! the gloom of winter, in unison with the vene-
rable objects of that place, must, more or less, affect the
hue of their imaginatioBS, and prepare them to deliver
to the proprietor and his friends, a picture characte-
ristically marked.

For my own part, I shall not, with my moderate ta-
lents, which have been little cultivated, pretend to give
the public a perfect and complete picture of any thing —
I may, indeed furnish the youthful part of my readers
with a few light sketches of interesting prospects ; but
to produce a descriptive piece to the public eye, in all
the grand features and minute tints of a perfect compo-
sition, is as much beyond my pretension as my leisure
to attempt — I shall therefore just observe in a cursory
way, that the view which I sketched of Ballinlough lake
and castle, was taken through an opening of the old,
bending, and in part, barkless trees, on my right and
left, and which with their withered foilage scattered on
the ground, contributed their share to the characteristic
'features of this scene. Through such an opening (which
ill part shaded and in part presented to the view, the
castle, the lake and the intervening lawn) let the reader
picture to himself what sort of impression must be made
upon (he mind of the beholder, while sitting on his horse
at a moderate distance from the vista, he looked at.



134 The Irish Tourist.

tentively through it to the objects which we have just
noticed — Let him who has studied with attention the
beauties of a masterly painting, recollect the eftect which
hath been produced upon his imagination by the skilful
blending of light and shade in the composition ; and the
influence which the due distribution of these has had
upon the whole ; and he will be able to form some estii
mate of my sensations, while my eye was full bent on
those living objects, which the skill of the painter, how.
ever perfect, can only produce to the admirer of nature
in minute and dusky shadows.

Having visited the castle of Ballinlough, the interior
of which appears a good deal modernized, Sir Hugh'
had the politeness to shew me two or three of the;,
principal apartments ; these, together with the,
gallery in the hall, had as splendid an appearance
as any thing which I had, until that time, wit-,
nessed in private buildings. The rooms are furnished;
in a superb stile — I cannot pretend to estimate the value,*
either of the furniture or ornamental works, but some
idea thereof may be formed from the expence of a fine
marble chimney-piece purchased in Italy, and which, if.
any solid substance can in smoothness and transparencr
rival wax work, it is this. I took the liberty of enquiring?^
what might have been the expence of this article, and
Sir Hugh informed me only five hundred pounds ster-
ling, a sum that would establish a country tradesmia
in business ! — The collection of paintings which thij^
gentleman shewed me, must have been purchased at afl'
immense expence also— probably at a price that,woul{
set up two : what then must be the value (if the entire



The Irish Tourist. 135

furniture and ornamental works ? Through a large

glass door in one of those magnificent apartments whicl^
opens at the rere of tlie castle, the baronet conducted
me ; and from a rising ground on which the castle standjs,
obHgcd me with a view of the lake in that direction.
The reader may form some idea of the pleasure which
such a prospect afforded, while standing within a few
yards of the castle, with the glass door set open, 1 be_
held before me, at a moderate distance from the eye,
the lake, and a skirt of the demesne ; and when I turned
Tound, to relieve that organ, the castle and one of the
superbly furnished apartments which we have just noticed,
presented before it the works of the architect and painter
in all their varied perfection. Having pointed out to
the Baronet an alteration which I conceived would im-
prove the appearance of his demesne, and expressed my
'■sense of his politeness, I took a farewell view of his
concerns, and departed. From thence I proceeded to
visit Sir Thomas Chapman, a country'gentleman of plain
and unaffected manners, I had not time to enquire
the name of his seat — it is on the verge of a little village
on his estate, called Clonmellon. The house and de-
mesne looked handsome, but the transient view which
I obtained of them a little before night, did not qualify nie
after the fatigues of the day to enter minutely into their
beauties,* The painful though indispensible part of my

♦ I have since had an opportunity of seeing this seat, which
ia called St. Luc)', in open day. Considering that it has not the
advantage of an elevated position, it is a very beautiful concern,
and commands an open view to the castles of Trim, about ten
miles from thence, to Lloyds's Pillar at Kells, about six miles
^ast from Clonmellon, and to the hills or mountains of Lough-



136 The Irish Tourist, '

business was now to be performed. I accordingly solicited
a short interview with the Baronet, which having ob-
tained and communicated to him the plan of my work,
lie had the politeness to enrol his name in my catalogue,
a favour the more to be valued, as he told me, although
he complied in my case, it was not'his custom.

It had been my frequent practise in those excursions,
to mark out in the course of the evening, the tract of
country I proposed going over the succeeding day,
together with the gentlemen's scats in that direction ;
and one day in the month of December, having travelled
liard to accomplish the route which I had thus laid out,
1 found myself benighted before I had arrived at the
•village of my destination. Travelling by night, and
without company, in a strange country, and on an un-
inhabited road, "is unpleasant at any time, but here I was
furnished with an additional source of perplexity, the
observation of a second road which I could just perceive
branched off to the right hand from that on which I
travelled. Being wholly unacquainted with the country,
I was at a loss to determine which of these roads I
should pursue, and in this painful dilemma pausing for
a moment to derive succour from reflection, I adoplcc|

ciew, about the same ulsfaiice, in another direclion. This
tlcmesne is beautified by a lake at the rere of the mansion-
house} and fi cm a ground somewhat elevated beyond this, an
old church-yard and an interesting ruin near it, shed their ro-
inantic influence upon the scene. The lands of this estate, so
far as I had opportunity of noticing them, appeared in high
order, some of the meadows producing, as Sir Thomas assured
me, twenty loads of hay to the acre, and the value of this pro-
pfTty is considerably enhanced by a quantity of well-growii
<ii,n>jer.



The Irish Tourist, 137

the resolution of proceeding straight forward ; soon after
whicli, a consolatory circumstance occurrecf, which will
\uidoublcdly excite the reader's amusement — it was the
glimmering of a candle through the window of a house in
the village 1 sought, the latter of which being built on a
iiill, and the house I allude to just opposite the road I was
travelling, the observation of this candle alTorded me as
much pleasure, as that of the light-house docs to the
distressed mariner, who, in a dark and tempestuous
night labours vo bring his ship to port. Iv^as at this
lime within about a mile of the village, and thought if
I should be mistaken with regard to. my object, that at
ieast I had the consolation of believing I was approach-
ing the liabitation of human beings. At this time there
was one family in my list unvisitcd. I had left it for the
last, because it was in the immediate vicinity of the
village, and as I bad made it a point to improve time
"and use all possible dispatch, I determined not to curtail
my next day's progress by postponing this visit until
morning. Although the shades of night had fallen, it
was not yet 6 o'clock — 1 therefore made up my mind^
to call here before I should alight at my inn — (for I
thought when once arrived there, rest for the remainder
of the night would be my own and my horse's due) — I
accordingly rode up to the house, fastened my horse to
a wicket which opened into the lawn, and rapping at the
door was admitted. I had commenced my apology io^
this unseasonable intrusion ; but the gentleman of the
house who had just returned from one of his farms did
not give me time to finish it in the position I was then
in, but conducting me into the parlour arranged vaj
establishment for the night, before I had cither com-



138 The Ii'ish Touristy

municated to him my business in his part of the country,
or produced for his inspection any other certificate of
my character than that which I carried in my face.
This was singular hospitality to a perfect stranger, but
for every thing there is a cause. This young man, in
whose mind a secret, but I trust useful enquiry had been
instituted, is a person of good landed property. On
seeing my prospectus he made no scruple of subscribing
to the publication I was promoting, and being alone, for
the rest of his family had gone to Dublin, he spoke of
the gratification which this accidental visit afforded him.
The following day proved so extremely wet, that I
could not travel, nor could my host leave home — the
greater part of it was therefore spent in conversation
on subjects of the utmost importance. I was ready
to believe, that my visit to this house, and my deten-
tion there for two nights were not merely accidental.

Mr. M , whatever use he may have since made

of the time thus occupied, or whatever impressions
iTiay have since resumed their ascendancy over his
judgment, was not then backward to acknowledge that
he derived as much advantage from our conversation
during the period of my visit, as I derived from the
hospitality of his house. Indeed he made still stronger
acknowledgments than this — but man is nothing — the sun
only is the source of light. Being a Protestant of the
most refined opinions myself, and engaged in the pro-
pagation of those opinions, I felt a little uneasy when
I first discovered, that the person to whom 1 was in-
debted for this amiable treatment was the member of an
opposite church. The painful sensation produced by
this discovery, wore away, however, as our minds were



The Irish Tourist. 139

candidly unfolded to each other, (an effect always pro-
duced by free communication and enquiry,) and on
the second night in which we sle])t in the same apart-
ment, it afforded me no uneasiness, that my host's
prayers were offered up through many intercessors,
while I adhered firmly to the- Apostle's doctrine, that,
we have *' one GoD, and one Mediator between God
and men, the man Christ Jesus." I Tim. ii. 5.

From Clonmellon I crossed the country to Oldcastle,
a little town on the northern margin of Westmeath,
whose antique appearance on one of those hills with
which that neighbourhood abounds, rendered it in the
winter season an interesting object. The recollection
of a little sopiety of Quakers, having.been once esta-
blished in the vicinity of this town, but which, of late,
has become wholly extinct, contributed, witli the anti-
quity of the village, and romantic appearance of the
surrounding scenery, to affect me very sensibly. I felt
my heart alive to the recollections of an early interest
in the concerns of this people, and although at that time,
with very few exceptions, no farther connected with
them than by the common lies of humanity, yet the
force of early impressions, with the preference which I
still give in my judgment to several of their principles,
were such, that I could not but feel affected with the
idea of the posterity of the Oldcastie Quakers, having
alienated themselves from a place, which once derived
xespectability from the propert}' and conduct of theiv
ancestors.

Oldcastie, as I remarked before, stands on a rising
ground, and commands a prospect of the country for
?pme miles around. From the cursory view which I took



140 The Irish Tourist

of the town, I think it may be composed of about forty
old houses, and perhaps half a dozen of more decent
aspect. I was however informed, that it has a very
good weekly-market and eight fairs in the year. In
these, beside other products of the country, large quan-
tities of linen-yarn are sold to the northern and other
manufacturers. The money thus circulated to a con-
siderable amount in the town and neighbourhood, renders
Oldcastle a place of some trade— it has several shops,
a very decent inn, recently established there by Mr.
Napper, and the trading inhabitants are in more com-
fortable circumstances than a stranger would suppose
from the appearance of their town. .

While in this village I met with a gentleman, nearly
related to a clergyman in this country, who has published
several large volumes, and spent the evening with him
much to my satisfaction. This genfleman gave me a
minute detail of a very shocking transaction which
took place in the north of Ireland, sometime previous
to the rebellion of IISS, and which I notice with pain
for the sake of public example. The account I received
is as follows :

A body of Roman Catholics, who lived peaceably '\n
one or two baronies, which they wholly t)r at least prin-
cipally occupied, having received information, whether
true or false, of a desiga to injure or insult them on the
12th of July subsequent to this information, they, for
the single purpose of self-preservation, entrenched
themselves in a Danish fort on their own lands. Here,
on the above day, (in defiance of the commands and
exhortations of a gentleman in the neighbourhood, who
was both a magistrate and minister) they were attacked



The Irish Tourist. 141

by a number of our protestant brethren in arms, dis-
lodged from their position, and three of them killed
upon the spot. The barbarities committed upon this
occasion are not here detailed in full — it is with the
utmost reluctance that we notice them at all ; but if
unprovoked, they were such as would reflect disgrace
upon a savage nation, and we hope fqr the sake of
humanity and for the honour of the Irish nation, that
a repetition of the same cruelties may never again stain
the page of history. The gentleman, who gave me this
information, is a member of the established church, a
man of well-known protestant family — the clergyman
and magistrate who expostulated with the people, was his
own father-in-law ; and on these accounts, as well as
from his appearance and manners, I could not suspect
him to be, either capable of, or inclined to fabricate such
a story.

1 hope the day is fast approaching when we who call
ourselves Protestants, will shew by our good faith and
peaceable demeanor the superiority of our principles to
those of the people against whose doctrines we protest —
This would be the proper subject of contest between us.
The principle of persecution, which appears to us, to
have been strongly interwoven in the system of popery,
let us not imitate — it is this and the corruptions con-
nected with it, which, in the judgment of great men,
have promoted the discredit of that religion. Let us,
therefore, instead of proclaiming hostility to the persons
of Roman catholics, labor to be useful to them, both in
our civil and moral capacities, and let us be aware (unless
their zeal should lead them to attempt, togethar wiih the
desUuctioh of our heresy, that of oi;r lives and liberties)



242 Tlie Irish I'ourist,

that as men and members of sociey (setting Christianity
aside) they are entitled to our services, and he who
withholds these, but much more so, he who steps forward
on the ground of a reh'gious difference, to molest them
in their peaceable rights, is not an enemy to the catholics
alone, but to himself, his country and his God !*

In my progress .from Clonmelloa ta Oldcastle, I
stepped aside for a moment to inspect Lough Crew, the
residence of Captain .Smith, but although I had not the
pleasure of seeing this gentleman at that time, I consi-
dered myself well repaid for the dedication of an hour,
by the pleasure which I derived from the contemplation
of his seat and the objects near it — In the dwelling-house
(which stands in a position artificially low, and to which
you descend by a flight of stone steps from a verdant
platform above it) there is nothing but its ruined ap-
pearance to recommend it to attention ; but even this, in
the rural and sequestered spot where it is situate, is not
Tvilhout effect ;x particularly, when taken in connection
with the broken pillars of a row of once existing edifices,
which from the same hollow ground, no bad emblem of
the grave, spoke their moral lesson ; and with the parish

* What a misfortune it is, in a country so well circumstanced
for happiness as this, that prejudices should run so high as to
embitter all our natural advantages, and even render the resi-
dence of honest and peaceable citizena extremely perilous in
certain districts, where ignorant armed bigots by their nocturnal