3 John Smith, esq, Annaville, Shinrone,
3 Mr. M. W, Sullivan, Ormond-quay, Dublin,
3 Mr. John Smith,. jun. Shinrone,
3 Bernard Shaw, esq. Dominick-st. Dublin,
3 Mrs. Henry Spunner, Corolanty, Shinrone,
3 Mr. Edward Smith, Kilcommon, do.
3 James Slicjipard, esq. Clifton, do.
3 Mr. James Short, Newtown Mt. Rath,
3 James Edmond, scott, esq. Anngrove, do.
3 Geo. Steele, esq. Harristown, Rathdowny,
3 Robert Simmons, esq. Rathangan,
S .Tohn Smith, esq. Moynalty,
o Wm. Smith, esq. Drumcree, C.T. Delvin,
3 F. P. Smith, cbq. Vjoletstown, Mullingar,
3 John Swift, esq. Rathconnel, do.
3 Pigott Sandes, esq. VVoodfield, Mt. Mellick,
3 Rev. Peter Sinnot, Kilcullen,
3 Thomas Scott, esq. Bank, Waterford,
3 Henry Scott, esq. Henrietta, do.
3 Rev. Henry St. George, Altamont, Tullow,
3 Mr. VVm. Singleton, Bagenalitown, Leighliu.,
3 Mr. T. Shaw, Merino-factory, Tliomaatown,
3 Mr. John Shearman, Burros, Kilkenny,
.3 Rev. D.'". St. George Kilrush, Frcshford,
3 Robert St. George7 esq. Baliefcastle, do.
3 Tlmmas Sadlier, esq. Clonmcl.
3 Samuel P. Smith, esq. Smithvalc, Wateiford,
3 John p. Smith esq. (.-^t Mr. Haye's) Ross,
.3 Peter .S'trange, esq. Aylwardstown, Wa.?crford,
S Rev. W. Sutton, Long-graig, Taghmou,
3 Mis.s Sutton, do. do.
3 Mr. John Sjiarrow, Lit tit-cools, Wexford,
3 Mr. Henry Smithson, 'i'liomas-st. Dublin,
3 Mr. James Shav/, l'()ttoniia[n-i;reerj,Ta'i;'oii.oi\.
.", ;\lr. Rieharfl A'panow, VVcxfjia,
3 Mr. John C Sn:ii'.i Citaiolin,
3 Rev. John Sinuot,, Gorey,
3 Wm. Shejjaid, esq. Oat land, Wicklow,
3 Mr. John Smiti'.bon, Thomas-st. Dubiii?.
3 Mr.Richajd Sutton, Fiinismrtjiy,
Subscribe7's' Nmnes.
Class.
4 Mr. Henry 51ator, near Longford,
4 Mr. Henry 6'illery, Slane,
4 Capt. 5mitlij Loughcrew-lodgc, Oldcastle,
4 Mr. Robert Sherlock, Carrot.stown, Trim,
4 Rev. Tliomas 5mitli, Laracorr, Trim,.
4 Mr. John 5cvvell, ncar'Castkdcrmot,
T.
I^rd Tara,
M. R. Dr. Troy, R. C Archbishop of Dublin,
1 Wni. Tighe, esq. M.P. \\'oodbtock, Innistioge,
2 C. i\ Tandy, esq. Waterford,
3 Captain Towers, Burris-o-kane,
3 Wm. Trench, cs(j. Canpoit-park^ Roscrea,
3 Ch. Tottenham, jun. esq. Ballycurry, Wicklwv,,
3 Mark Toomcy, esq. Eagle-hill, Kildare,
'i Captain Tyler, East Kent. Regiment,
3 John Tew, esq. Mountjoy-square, Dublin,
3 Rob. Taylor, esq. Mill-lodge, Slane,
3 Rev. Joseph Turner, Slane,
3 VVm. Ttiompson, esq. Charlemount-st. Dublin,
3 Mrs. R. Thompson, Oatlands, Kells,
3 Rev. R, Tronson, glebe-house, Athboy,
3 Mr. Ricli. Tobin, Kells, Kilkenny,
3 Mr. Thomas Tomlinson, Mill-park, Tullow,
3 Rev. Fred. Eyre Trench, KcUistown, Carlow,
3 Rev. M. N. Thompson, Fcnnor, Johnstown,
3 Mr. Wm. Tims, Rathdrum,
3 Mrs. Talbot, Ecclcs-street, Dublin,
3 Mr. Matt. Travers, Wicklow,
4 Mr. VVm. Tassie, Goldenrhill, Blessington,
4 Mr. .Tohn Tassie, do-. do.
4 Mr. .Tames Tale, Belan mills, Castlcdermot,
4 Mr. R. Thomas, Wicklow,
3 Rev. P. Taylor, Haiold's-cross, Dublin,
4 Mr. John Timmon, Navan,'
U,
3 John Usher, esq. Landscape, Ross.
V.
1 Lord Viscount Valentia,
1 Rt. Hon. J, O. Vandeleur, Cavendish-row, Dublin,
1 P. Vickers, esq. Castlegrange, Newtown Mt. Kenned
3 Miss Viridet, Harcourt-st. Dublin,
3 Sir VVm. Vachcll, Belvidere-lodge, Waterfoid,
3 Hon and Rev. Arthux- Yesey,
PREFACE.
• THE numerous Tours and other Works which have
been written upon the State of Ireland, would seem to
supercede the necessity of obtruding any thing further
on the Public in relation to it, and more particularly, as
a Parochial Survey of the whole kingdom is now actually
in progress by another hand : but I would beg leave to
observe that, although much has been written on the
Stole, of Ireland, a considerable proportion of this has
proceeded from the pen of strangers, whose political
bias, partial residence in the country, or early prejudices
against it, were by jio means favourable to the produc-
tion of a correct portrait of this iand, with its life and
manners. A general view of the Irish picturesque, has
never yet been given to the Public by any hand, that
wc know of-^not of course by Historians or Antiquarians,
because it was not their province— nor by Statistical
Surveyors, each of whom, has been confined, for the
most part, to the inspection of a single county, and
whose operations have been directed to objects of still
greater utility— and even the Tourists, whose attention
10 the beauties of a country would be naturally expcctcd>
xviii Preface.
with the exception of a few striking curiosities which
are known to almost every one, have dwelt but httle
on the topography of Ireland; and, perhaps, for a very
good reason, because they did not hold the beauties of
this country in sufficient esteem, to take the trouble of
traveJlitig over it with that attention which was necessary
to collect them.
Mr. Mason's Parochial Survey, now compiling from
the Returns of the Clergy, will elicit much useful in-
formation on the state of this country ; and though it
may not be able to boast of infallibility in all its parts,
we have no doubt it will constitute, when complete, the
most solid and generally correct body of information
which has yet been presented to the Public on the State
of Ireland. We wish this valuable undertaking every
possible success, and still more, we wish the information
it contains may be so acted upon by the Nobility and
Gentry who have an interest • in the soil, as to pro-
mote the illumination of the people, increase their
comforts, and correct their excesses : and if to these
useful points, our humble pages are found to have some
tendenc}'^, we trust it will not stand as an objection
against them, that they contain neither a Parochial, nor
yet a County Survey ; that they bear upon them a stamp
of originality, which distinguishes ihcm as our own ;
and that they are peculiarly devoted to the moral im-
provement, and to the beauty and the benevolence of
Ireland.
It remains that we offer some apology for a large
portion of the subject matter of this work, which we
feel requires it ; and in doing this, we shall endeavour
to shew our respect for the Public, and ourselves, by
Preface. xix
speaking undisguised truth. Those pages then, which
usher in our projected surrey of this country, were
written while engaged in the propagation of the " Roll
of a Tennis Ball through the Moral JVorld,'' by sub-
scription : a book specifically different from that which
wc now lay before the Public, and the labours connected
with which, rendered it impossible to pay that attention
to the country which was necessary, in order to glean
the whole of its natural and artificial features. These
then being a mere journal of travels, with some glean-
ings, however, of the picturesque, cannot pretend to
much utility, but they formed the ground work of our
subsequent researches, and were so connected with
them, that we could not, without inflicting a wound
upon the whole structure of our proceedings, takeaway
this foundation. Occupied, however, as we were with
this first object of our public cares, we found leisure
to make occasional remarks upon the scenery of the
country through which we passed, until having rolled
by much the greater part of our Tennis-balls to the
legitimate Owners, we felt completely at liberty to devote
an undissipated attention to the country', the topogra-
phical and moral portrait of which, if permitted b}'-
Providence, we design to carry on, until finished, by a
course of travels through those parts of the island which
have been hitherto unexplored by
THE IRISH TOUKIST.
li 2
THE
IRISH TOURIST.
CHAP. 1.
Geographical Position and Climate of Ireland, noticed-^
I jiuthor commcnccsTraveller, in his Native Country tfer
the propagation of a Book which he published on Prin-
ciple— Starts from the centre of the Island and proceeds
through /Ithloncy Longford, and parts of the County of
Leitrim, to Sligo, a sea-port town on the N. W. coast
I Incidents of his Journey so far, with Observations on
the Country through which he passed.
I-
I â– â– â–
IRELAND, which constitutes the theatre of the fol-
lowing simple perambulations, is situated between 5° 2b"
3 nndlOoST' W. Longitude from London, and between
51oiG"and55o 15" North Latitude. It is bounded oa
I the North by the Scottish Sea, on the South by the mouth
I of St. Gccrge'f-channcl, on the east by St. George's-
j . â– '
22 The Irish Touristy
channel and the Irish Sea, and on the West by the
Atlantic Ocean. Its greatest length from N. to S, is
stated by different authorities, to be from 210 to 300
Irish miles, and hence we conclude, that 285 miles,
(the central number between these) may be relied on as a
correct calculation. — Its greatest breadth is reputed at 160
miles, but on this article also, some little variation occurs
in the authorities to which we have alluded.
It rises out of the ocean on an immense bed of granite,
and in various parts is pregnant with calcareous, ferru-
ginous and argillaceous matter,* and hence bids fair, in
process of time, to obtain an equal, if not superior rank
among the countries of Europe, in respect to its sub-
terraneous treasures. The climate, though temperate,
being humid and subject to excessive rains, is hence not
quite so favourable to persons of delicate habit, as one
more dry and southerly — Nevertheless, there are, per-
haps, as many instances of longevity in this island, as in
the same extent of country in other parts of Europe ;
and its peasantry arc particularly healthy and robust. For
the heavy rains to which we have adverted, and which
â– * For the infoimition of I he plain reader, an explanation of
the foregoing terms is hero annexed, and when in the couise of
our travels we shall have occasion to notice the classes of soil
or strata which characterize this island, intend using, generally,
those terms of description which are best understood by the
people of the country, as a gentleman farmer assured the Author,
that, though he had the learned survey of a county, in which
he possessed a large landed property, constantly in his house,
he never looked into it, as' he could not understand it without
reference to his diclionary at every page,
CaZcareows, relating to calx, or stratum of .lime.
Ferruginous, partaking of iron.
/^rgilUiceons, comisiingof clay.
The Irish Tourist. 23
sometimes threaten our harvests with destruction, some
are of. opinion, that we are principally indebted to the
westerly winds, which meeting with no lands on this side
America to break their force, necessarily waft hither
the vapours of an immense ocean which, separate us
from that continent J these falling on marshes and low
grounds, and uniting in certain spots with stagnant
waters which have accumulated for ages, have, no doubt,
impregnated the air with noxious exhalations, and been
the source of disorders both to men and cattle; but the
recent value of lands, and the growing spirit of improve-
ment which pervades this country, will, by cultivation
and draining, in due time, subvert the source of this
public evil.
Much having been written on the climate and natural
history of this country, we feel it unnecessary to enlarge
on those subjects, and therefore shall commence our
simple history of travels with an appeal to the candor
and liberaKty of the reader, who, if an Irishman, will
not require labored arguments to induce him to cover
with a mantle of generosity, the efforts of a countryman
to improve and to amuse him.
AUTHOR COMMENCES TRAVELLER.
In the month of November, IS 10, I departed from
my residence in the centre of the island, toward Sligo,
for the purpose of collecting subscriptions for the publi-
cation of a work on christian doctrine and philosophy,
{and which has since made its appearance in this country,
under the title of, " Roll of a Tennis-ball through the
Moral World,") and proceeded that day to Athlone, a dis-
tance of seven miles only from my own habitation. — Here
I obtained the good offices of the Protestant clergy and
24 The Irish Tourist.
a few other gentlemen, in the propagation of this work,
(with which my travels commenced,) and soon after, in
company with a respectable inhabitant of the town, at
whose house I lodged, proceeded toward Longford, on
foot, having sold my saddle horse, to pacify the feelings
of my family, who were alarmed at the pecuniary conse-
quences of my undertaking.
Athlone. — Is a good market and post town on the banks
of the river Shannon, which there divide the Counties
of Westmeath and Roscommon, and the provinces of
Leinster and Connaught. It is situate about fifty-eight
miles West of Dublin, and is rendered famous in Irish
history, by its antiquity, and by the victory which Ge-
neral Ginckle, an English officer under William, obtained
there over the Irish forces in 1691. The bridge ex-
tolled for its strength and beauty, by the Post Chaise
Companion, and hy a Tourist, who in this instance,
has probably copied from it, is a piece of ancient
architecture, at once narrow and inconvenient, as also
are the streets immediately adjoining, so much so, as.
greatly to endanger the safety of the passenger through
their public fairs — these are attended by persons from
several counties and provinces for the sale and purchase
of cattle, for a good description of which, more par-
ticularly horses, it has, in common with Mullingar, the
county town of Westmeath, obtained considerable ce-
lebrity; but for its eel-fishery, it stands pre-eminent in
that part of Ireland. Athlone is the grand pass from
Dublin to Connaught, and on account of its central and
commanding situation, has been strongly garrisoned by
Government, and is perhaps one of the most important
points of defence in the Island. — The barracks and bqt..
The Irish Tourht. 25
tcries of the town, togeiber with the ornamental furni-
ture of the armoury, a handsome light building, render
this place an object worthy the attention of the stranger,
who can reflect without pain on those warlike prepara-
tions, which the injustice and inhumanity of man have
rendered necessary to his defence.
SgtNEav. — The country between Atlilone and Longford,
does not exhibit any very striking variety of scenery. In
your progress to the latter, you pass through the town or
village of Ballymahon, which has little to invite de-
scription; but beyond this, toward Longford, yoii per-
ceive the country enlivened by scats of respectable
aspect— ^with the minor beaties or improvements of these
scats, that of Castlecor excepted, I am, however, but
little acquainted, having contemplated them merely as
public objects, but in point of improved population, it
was very obvious, that the country between Longford
and Ballymahon, had much the advantage of that be-
tween the latter village and Athlone. Castlecor, the
scat of P. Johnson, Esq. within a mile of Ballymahon,
1 had some opportunity of inspecting with attention,
having spent part of two days there. ' It stands on a piece
of ground somewhat elevated above the general level of
the country^ and commands the view of an open and
extensive landscape, enriched by a circle of sur-
rounding villas. — The dwelling-house of Castlecor,
, erected by-^the late Dean Harman, (and which would
have been a very [)roper and consistent production of
Dean Swift,) may justly be considered as a model of
eccentricitjr one would suppose that the reverend
founder of this hunting-lodge, had the four courts of
Dublin, or some other public edifice, in bis eye, whea
26 The Irish Tourist:
hesketched the plan of his house.- It contains a large
octagonal hall, supported in the centre by a handsome
pillar, with a chimney, grates, and mirrors, and opens a
communication with a suite of rooms which surround it on
the ground floor. — The little river of Inny, after winding
its fertilizing course through the valley, on the south
west of this concern, drops into a beautiful and extensive
lalce, called Lough Ree, about three miles from Gastl'ecor,
and being comprehensible from hence, it gives the
landscape in that direction a considerable air of beauty ;
an advantage, which the state of this country, but little
enlivened by lakes or extensive plantations, will teach the
stranger to appreciate ; but the soil is good for tillage and
feeding, and being stocked and cultivated by a number
of respectable landholders, it will not be found barren of
interest to the friend of human comfort and improve-
ment. — The Protestant ministers of this neighbourhood,
Messrs. Moffet and Maguire, behaved, on this public
occasion, as became their profession. — In the open and
hospitable face of the latter, I traceil with pleasure the fac
simile of those good humoured smiles which I had so
often traced in the physiognomy of his brothers, while
sporting with them on the plains of Ballitore, where we
were educated, and which, v.'ith pleasure, I have since
noticed, they did not leave behind them at the threshold
of the school-rooyn.
With regard to the favourable reception which I, in
a fair proportion, have met with from my countrymen,
I confess, considering the numerous complaints of
wilful imposition practised on the public, in this way, it
excited both my admiration and my gratitude. There is,
I believe^ patronage in this country, nocwithstanding the
â– The Irish Tourist, 2/ '
difficulties under which it labors, for any upright un- ,
dertaking: and although 1 think it my duty to speak
freely on the subject of its errors, I love my country
ilotvvilhstanding these, and behevc, if it was once pro-
perly educated, there would not be a more noble or
respectable spot upon the globe.
Longford Landscape — In my approach to the town of
Longford I passed over Farnagh-hill, within an English
mile of that spot of the valley in which the town is si-
tuate. The view from this hill, over the town, to the
country north west of the valley, is exceedingly ex-
tensive. The mountains of Siieveneran,* about twent) -
six miles distant, are in full prospect. At the west end of
those mountains, you have a view of the Shannon, and
nearly due west of Farnagh, over a bog ornamented by
the little river of Camblin, which waters Longford, you
have an open view of Slievbawn mountain, in the
County of Roscommon. This landscape is bounded on
the north, by a tract of high land, of which the hill of
Cornclonhue, forms the most striking feature. A- few
miles beyond' this hill, is situate the village or town-land
of Ballinamuck, rendered famous in Irish history, by
the victory which our army under the command of
General Lake, there obtained, over those Frenchmen
who had the temerity to invade our country in the year
1798.
* Those mountains are said to abound with strata of coal and
iron. At the foot of one of these, on Colonel Tennison's estate,
called Ballyfarnon, I heard, an iron manufactory had been
opened, which promised much advantage to the country, but
that through some species of raismanagcmeat, it had unfortu-
nately miscarried.
128 The Irish Touristy
Town of Longford. — Longford is a pretty large and
well built town, about tvvcnt}' Irish miles N. of Athlone,
and fifty-eight N.W. of Dublin. The batteries which
are light and modern, improve the appearance of the
place, and in the town there is a barrack capable of i
accommodating a considerable military force. Longford
has a weekly market for the sale of linen-cloth and
yarn, and the other productions of the country. Its
trade, I nm told, has declined of late, but the busy
aspect of the shop-keepers, and the good houses which
several of them occupy, shew that, however its com-
merce may have declined, enough remains to secure
the opulence of a i^w^ and the general comfort of the
industrious inhabitants.
Nothing can shew in a stronger point of view, the
advantage of the linen-trade to those parts of Ireland
where it has been established, than the aspect of comfort
which this town maintains, even in its declension. The
main street is roomy, the houses tall, and the shops
rather numerous ; and yet Longford is a market only
for the sweepings of the linen-trade.
From Longford I took coach to Castlcforbcs, the
seat of the Earl of Granard, whose ]^dy,. by the intro-
duction, of a clergyman of fashion, received me \Vith
condescending politeness, subscribed handsomely to my
book, and promised me her influence with the ladies of
her acquaintance. Contrasting the easy and unassuming
manners of this distinguished personage, with the low
and insolent behaviour of several persons, whose birth
and employments might entitle them to rank with the
servants of her hall, I departed, and bent my course
towards Rusky, a picturesque; but wretchedly accommo-
TJie Irish Tourist. 29
dated village, through which you pass in j'our progress
to the county of Leitrim. The land in several parts of
this country, and in the vicinity of Longford, appeared
soft and spewy, but the rising grounds, 1 was informed,
produce very good crops. Lodged a night at Coffey's,
the only passable house of entertainment in that place,
and about eleven o'clock the next day mounted the Sligo-
coach, and proceeded on the road towards Drumsna, as
far as M^Dermot's inn, sending forward my 'baggage to
the post-office of that village, and proceeding on foot
nearly two miles across the country, to the seat of
Matthew Nesbitt, esq. of Derrycarn, in the county of
Leitrim. This gentleman's seat stands on a rising ground
three parts of which appear lo be surrounded by the
river Shannon. It commands a prospect over the river
to some gentlemen's seats in ihe county of Roscommon,
amongst which is the lodge of Lord Roscommon ; and
'> when the planting and oilier improvements which Mr.
Ncsbitt intends to execute, are accomplished, Derry-
carn will be, certainly, one of the handsomest and most
picturesque seats in that part of the country — but if the
sloping sides of Derrycarn, court the ornamenting hand
of the pUnter, and its summit the finishing touch of
the architect ; the happiness, the humanity, and the uu-
affccied welcome, which the stranger finds within, amply
compensate to him for those defects of art, for to
Derrycarn nature hath been peculiarly bountiful.
Mr. Nesbitt happened to be from home when I arrived
at his house ; but his lady, in whose character the virtues
of wisdom and benevolence are singularly conspicuous, "
received me as a member of ihe primitive church would
h^vc done a stranger. Rendered happy by the marks
30 The Irish Tourist-
of excellence which I saw, I, accepted this lady's oblig-
ing invitatioa to wait for Mr. Nesbitt's return, who was
expected every moment, and on his arrival, having read
my letters of introduction, he politely united with his
lady, in invitihg me to spend the night at their house,
assuring me I should have a well aired bed, an object
of no little importance to a stranger. I felt thankful
fo God for this opening of his Providence, which after-
wards proved useful to me in the neighbourhood, for
through Mr. Nesbitt's introductory letters I obtained
Ihe patronage of many respectable families in that
country. This gentleman is z. zealous protestant magis-
trate, of considerable estate in the county of Leitrim— <
his lady, although of a different persuasion, possesses
that liberal and generous mind which can tolerate the
opinions of others without departing from her own ; nor
shall I soon forget the proofs of rational piety and good
sense which her example exhibited. It is possible that
I may have been more or less influenced iu the opinion
which I have formed of the generous family of Derrycarn,
by the rare evidences of its hospitality which I myself
experienced — for these I was indebted to the moral
nature of my work, the respectable introductions which
I carried with me, and perhaps to a few of those natural
qualities, which Heaven, in its bounty, has promiscu-
ously scattered among the evil and the good. And
although I consider this family as one, among the many
instruments, which Providence uses to promote its own
designs, yet this does not lessen, but rather exalt the
sentiments of gratitude which I feel for its services ; and
hence I hope the critic will pardon me, if I have not
sketched its moral features with the marble pencil of t
The Irish Tourist. 31
stoic, but have communicated to them a drop or two
of those sangiiine -colours which distil from a grateful
heart.
From Derrycarii, mounted on a horse of Mr. Nesbitt's