on Suir, the description of which would have materially en-
riched this work, are hence unavoidably omitted.
4/0 The Irish Tourist.
rnodation of the countr}', by authorizing granil juries to
levy taxes for carrying these improvements into effect,
we should fee] loss disposed to treat with acrimony (hose
shameful abuses. f
f It must be admitted, that grand juries, like all other public
bodies, are critically circumstanced, being liable to the imputation
of partiality, in the cxcrcisejof this, as well as other duties uf their
office; the truth or falsehood of which imputations, if made known
to the public by a statement of the corresponding facts, in each
county, m-.gbt prove of service to the country} but this state-
ment (Jinjiossible to he presented to the country by a mere tra-
veller, and requiring sources of information which it would be
impossible for a mere tiaveller to command,) would come ex-
tremely well before the public through a national or parochial
survey, (such as that of Mr. Mason's) compiled fjom resident
authorities.' Through this - valuable and authentic medium,
the public might be satisfactoi ily informed of the good or evil
produced to the country, by the execution or perversion of
puhlic trusts. This species of information, so well calculated
to promote the ends of justice, would be an honorable exercise of
that invaluable blessing, the liberty of the press; and in a
â– work, the profes-^ed object of which, is to develope the true
state of a country, such information appears not only useful,
but absolutely indispensible to the perfection of its object. How
far this end can be answered, by depending exclusively, for in-
formation, ujion one inhabitant of each parish (however respect-
able and well informed that individual may be) 13 not for us
but for the public to determine — The respectable proprietor of
l.hat useful undertaking to which we have just adverted, may
feel, on reflection, the utility of adding to the list of quei'ies
which he has hit he) to addressed to tlie clergy, a few others, cal-
rulated to bring into view sf>me liithcrlo unnoticed articles of
useful inliiiigcnce ; and of aiding the labours of the tstabliihed
clergy, by other intelligent autliorities, whose services, in the
execution of an impartial survey bf Ireland, if solicited person-
lily, or through t!-.e press, would, in some instances at least,
be cljcarfully contributed ; and I presume it need not he men-
tloneil to that gentlcm.in, that in proportion to tlie quantity of
Ihe Irisli Tourist 471
From Ballyhale, one of the villages on the public road
between Kilkenny and Waterford, the traveller proceeds
over a chain of lofty ground, called the Welch moun-
tains — several of the inhabitants of this, wild tract of
country-, occupy much ground in the dairy department,
and are famous ,also for extensive breeding of pigs, a
description of stock for which they have a very good
market at Waterford, It is a little singular, however,
that some of those extensive pig breeders and dairy men,
'caunot speak a single sentence of plain English.
â– KILKENNY MARBLE.
. The County of Kilkenny is famous for both 'black and
"variegated marble flag, -of the finest quality which Ire-
^land can boast cf. The manufacturing of the numerous
quarries of this flag, -canstitutes a principal branch of the
trade of this county — they ere conveyed by land and
water to several sea-ports -of the island, and occasionally
exported to the Liverpool and London markets ; some of
â– these flags being exquisitely fine, and when manufactured
into chimney-pieces., amounting, occasionally, to thirtj-
tiseful information which his work embraces, and to the weight
;and variety of evidences with which that information is sup-
supported, will his work be adverted to by the public, as a
faithful portrait of Ireland, and one which may be resorted to
in all cases of public controversy, as an unerring standard.
If to a writer, apparently influenced by an honorable design
to promote the interests of his native country, an apology be
necessary for the liberty we have heie taken ; be this our apology,
t-hatlin doing so, we have not consulted our own private interest,
but the interest of the country, and that the hints here
thrown out, are not the production of our own solitary mind,
but the sentiments (more modestly iugge^ted) of a considprahla
proportion of tl>e Irinb p\iblic.
47'2 The Irish Tourist. \
guineas a suit, are consequently fit articles of furniture }
for the most respectable apartments. • !
PEASANTRY. '
This class of the population of the county, or rather
of the southern district, (by which we principally mean,
the country lying between Waterford and Kilkenny)
appear, in a considerable proportion, in a state of rude '
nature, similar to those of the same class in most parts of
Connaiight — A person speaking to them in the English
language, will often find it difficult to make himself un-
derstood ; my patience in this respect, when enquiring
about the roads or other ordinary objects of the country,
was often put to a severe trial. North of Kilkenny, they
appeared more polished, approaching, in some degree,
to the appearance of the Wexford and Queen's County
peasantry, who dress in a smart and improved manner,
and many of whose women look particularly neat and at-
tractive. The coarse round straw hats and stuff and
linsey garments of the lower class of women south of
Kilkenny, may be very serviceable and suitable to their
rank, but certainly conspire with their vulgar habits and
language, to rob them of all grace and attraction?
QUALITY AND ASPECT OF THE SOIL.
The County of Kilkenny is composed, for the most
part, of a level surface, though occasionally diversified
with elevations, but except Brandon-hill and two or
ihree others of inferior magnitude, there arc few lofty
objects on the surface of this county.
The soil, or at least the greater part of it, may be
classed under four heads, viz.— ^first, rich mold on a
The Irish Tourist. 4/3
substratum of limestone rock or quarry, as in the neigh-
borhood of Goivran, Summer-hill, &c. which is certainly
the best class — Shingley or slaty soil, (denominated by
the peasantry, " Sleigugh," from the Irish word Sleibgh,
a mountain, being generally found in the vicinity of hills
or mountains which abound with coal) as the lands of
Castlecomer, &c. — thirdly, a poor gravel soil; and lastly,
inundated or wet ground, which forms by much the
minor feature of that county.
LOCAL FEATURES.
The lands between Kilkenny and Three Castles may be
denominated a light improveable soil — those of Three
Castles are mueh superior, being composed of strong
clay, naturally grassy and fertile of corn ; these latter
are, in what may be termed original heart, bu-t until
a" little previous to the death of Mr. Ball, the late pro-
prietor, they had derived little assistance from artificial
improvement.. On each side of the road which passes
by Foulksrath castle to Freshford, but particularly on
the left hand, I saw the most poor and miserable vein of
gravel soil which had attracted my attention in that
county. This description of land extends, as I heard,
on each side of the road from Di nan-bridge to the de-
mesne of Ballyragget, although the lauds which unite
with this vein, and extend to the river on one side, and
to the hills of Shangana, Conahee, &c. in the opposite
direction, constitute nutritive pastures, and are fertile of
corn.
FUEL.
The fuel of this county is for the most part coal,
47-^ The Irish Tourist.
with which the inhabitants of the northern district, arc
supplied from the pits of Castlecomer, &c. while those
of the southern, obtain English coal from the port of
Waterford, with which city. Cox's bridge, as we have
already noticed, opens a convenient communication.
The. poor are, however, in many instances, badly off
for fuel, as they can seldom purchase coal, and there
is comparatively but little turf bog in this county.
AGRICULTURE.
Although Kilkenny is a good corn county, yet im-
provements in agriculture are not going forward as might
be expected. The old fallowing system, though disused
by some, and it is hoped will be ultimately superseded by
a better, is still retained by a vast number — drill hus-
bandry, lately introduced into the county by a few
gentlemen, is making some progress, but much room
remains for the extension of this useful system. Greea
crops are but little cultivated, and probably for the
same reason which we have noticed in our survey of
Carlow — the practice of pilfering evefy thing which can
be rendered an article either of convenience or con-
sumption to the peasantry, an evil (if my information
be correct) still more prevalent in this county than in
that of Carlow, and perhaps for the following reason : — .
Education (if I might judge from the ample specimens
I saw) is much farther advanced in Carlow than in Kil-
Kcnny.
The Irish Tourist. AJB
CHAP. xvir.
Author's entrance into the County of JVexford — Country
from Innistioge to Ross described — Seats and Scenery
n the banks of the Ross river, minutely noticed—
Proceeds to Fealherd, a village on the TVexford shore-
Visits J)uncannon-fort, Dunbra-xdy Abbey, and other
objects deserving of description in the vicinity of the
Coast — Returns to Ross— Trade, Public Buildings,
and Charitable Institutions of this Town minutely de-
scribed — Traverses the Country towards Eimiscorthy—
Trade and aspect of this Toxi'n noticed — Beauties of
the surrounding country carefully selected — Drives to
Ne-.otown Barry — Brief description of this Village —
Proceeds to JVexford, by Ballinkeelc — Visits Artra-
viont, and other seats (f distinction, in his progress —
Drives from We.ford to the Village of Taghmon,
and from hence to the Sea Coast — Returns through
Taghmon to Wexford— Seats and Scenery on the banks
^of the river Slaney, noticed— Brief description of the
To-uDU of Wexford — Interesting Anecdote of a School-
boy — Desci ipiion oj the Baronies of Forth and Bargie —
Copious Remarks on the dangers of the Wexford
Coast — On the mineral productions of this County —
Returns to Enniscorthy and proceeds from thence to
Ferns— Visits Camolin-park, tJie seat of Lord Viscount
Valentia — Villages (f Fern and Camolin described —
Shameful abuse of the Sabbath, in purls of this County,
censured — Proceeds to Gorey — Brief description of
that Town, xcith the Seats and Scenery around it —
Concluding observations on the Agriculture^ Soil and
Manures of this County,
4/6 The Irish Tourist.
FROM KILKENNY TO ROSS, THROUGH THOMASTOWN AND
INNISTIOGE.
The country in this direction, so far as Innistioge, has
been noticed already, and from thence to Ross, the
scenery is not only universally pleasing, but in one or
two spots highly picturesque — Of these, by far the most
rich and gratifying landscape, is that which comprehends
the demesne of Lord Callan, and which the eye takes in,
though not with equal advantage, from two lofty positions
on this road — The first is that of Ballycommon-hill,
within two and a half miles of Ross — A valley richly
planted, bounded by hills, ornamented by two or three
beautiful villas, and enlivened by the waters of the
Nore, exhibits to tl>e eye of the spectator from this
position, a spectacle truly gratifying. The road passes im-
mediately by Lord Callan's gate, and if the stranger of
taste- who proceeds in this direction, will take the trouble
of driving through his Lordship's demesne, the feast, of
which he had obtained an earnest on Ballycommon-hill,
will be rendered complete, by his observation of the
Noro and Barrow, which forming a junction on this no-
bleman's demesne, ma}' be justly considered as the most
curious and interesting object on that extensive concern.
In your passage from Lord Callan's to Ross, you ap-
proach a very beautiful draw-bridge, which crosses
the Barrow, and lends its influence (with the seats of
Mr. Minchin, and the Misses Rossitcr, on the distant
bank) to improve the appearance of the country.* On
•* On visiting Rosemount^ the seat of the Misses Rossiter, a
few days aftcv my entrance into Ross, I was charmed with the
unrivalled beauty of the urospcct which the elevated lands at
The Irish Tourist. 477
your arrival, however, at the second and more beautiful
elevation, called Mount Garret, within half a mile of
Ross, the prospect of the union of the waters, is much
more clear than from Lord Callan's demesne — the land-
scape, in addition to this beauty, and to the numerous
plantations in the valley, is also rendered magnificent by
Brandon-hill, a mountain called Sleibghbawn, and other
objects of magnitude which form a boundary to it.
Lord Callan's lodge, on a gentle elevation beyond the
waters, though, small, is also i point of improvement in
this scene, in the description of which, we should not
overlook a little castle on the road side, whi-ch contri-
butes its due proportion of influence to the general
beauty of the landscape. Mount Garret, in addition to
the rere of Rosemount dwelhng-house commands, and felt
equally dissatisfied with the bad taste of the old school, which, in
common with numerous other living interments of this fair and
flourishing island, had buried those amiable girls at the bottom of
this fine elevation, instead of placing them on its summit ; a kind
of geographical death which we would by no means recommend
them tamely to endure, well-knowing that they possess the magic
power of soon conveying themselves and tlieir habitation to that
lofty eminence which so much better quadrates with the beauty of
this country, and with that chastesimplicihy of heart and taste^ with
which these ladies have been honored both by grace and nature.
Here the spectator enjoys a still more close and intimate view
of I/ord Callan's house, and of the: meeting of the waters,, than
even from Mount Garret — an equally interesting prospect of
the town, the bridge, and the river of Ross — of -a little villa^
which stands like a snow-drop in tlie valley — of Ballianc^house
and plantations, the scat of Colonel O'Farrell, bounding the
landscape on. a bold elevation ;to. the north-east — of the. summit
of Woodstock plantations, in the opposite direction, and. (in
their own immediate vicinit)-) of the neat edifice of Mr.
Minchin, and the farm-house of Rlr, Henry Tottenham directly
op])osite Rosemount.
478 The Irish Tourist.
this landscape, commands a view of Ross, in the op-
posite direction. This town, picturesquely situated on
the banks of the river, which sustain ornamental plan-
tations, and gradually elevate themselves to a considerable
distance beyond the water, had, in my view, as pleasing
an aspect, as any other town which I had visited. The
Hoss river, composed of the united waters of theNoreand
Barrow, may measure about two hundred yards wide in
that place, and when taken in connection with its beautiful
painted bridge, the light shipping on its surface, the
stores, villas, and plantations on the banks of the river,
conspired to render the view of this town and its conco-
mitant improvements, as picturesque as can be well
conceived.
SEAT3.
From Ross I drove as usual to all the principal seats
in the surrounding country. My first excursion was on
the County Kilkenny bank of the river. In this direction
stands Castle-Annaghs, the beautiful seat of Edward.
Murphy, Esq. It is the first object of distinction on this
bank, and comprises an elegant square edifice, of mo-
dern aspect, on a demesne of near five hundred acres,
beautifully elevated above the river, and enriched by a
castle and ornamental plantations. The approach to this
house, through lands highly improved, and commanding
an interesting view of the town, the bridge, and the
shipping of Ross, was Highiy gratifying. A collier or
coal raft, was anchored in the river under the shade
of a plantation, within a few perches of the avenue, on
the morning of my visit to this place, the appearance of
The Irish Tourist, 47^
which produced no mean influence on the general beauty
of that scene.
The second seat was that of Aylwardstown, a neat
little villa which commands a pleasing prospect over the
river, and (from an elevated position on the demesne) an
oblique view of the town of Ross, about six miles dis-
tant, and of several lofty and sublime mountains which
bound the vievv beyond it. But in the traveller's pro-
gress along the Uoss river, a landscape comprehensible
in a view from the road which winds by Lady Esmonde's '
demesne (and still more perfectly from Drumdowney-
hill, a little beyond it,) exceeds every other which the
seats of that neighbourhood can boast of. Here the
grandeur of mountains, particularly that of Blackslairs .
and Slelbghkeher, unites v^ith the incomparable beauty
and wild, irregularity of the river, in its approach to
the sea-, witla the cultivated lands of the extensive valley
on the banks of this river, with the beautiful villa of
Mr, Handcock on the distant shore, with that stupendous
monument of antiquity, Dunbrawdy Abbey, on the
County Wexford side of the river, and lastly, with
the hotel and numerous beautiful villas of Check-point
(the present station of the packets which ply between
Waterford and Milford) to present the spectator with
a landscape, as extensive, as variegated, and as eminently
uniting objects of wild grandeur with those of modern
taste, as any reasonable eye need wish to enjoy. Sir
Thomas Esmondc, (to whose politeness, and that of his
aunt. Lady Esmonde, I acknouledgc myself indebted)
was obliging enough to accompany me to the summit
of Drumdowncy-hill, which stands over the river, and
in addition, to the objects we have noiiced, commands a
48*0 Tlie Irish Tourist
perfectly clear view of Ross and Waterford, an oblrquc
view of the sea, and one highly interesting of Lady
Fsmonde's seat (beautifully planted) oiV the bank of the
river. The charms of this landscape, are, however, in
some degree diminished, by that h6athy tract on the
summit of Druradowney-hill, from Vvhence the spectator
takes his prospect j nor can his eye, from thd proximity
of this disgusting spectacle, preserve itself from that
shocking drawback to its enjoyment which this object
produces.
The seats which embellish the country on the Wex-
ford side of the river, are those of Oaklands (the seat
of Lieutenant Colonel Sankdy,*) Oak-park, (a beautiful
* This scat (as yet in ah unfinished state) comprehends ah
interesting variety of demesne grounds, the bordfers of which
are enriched and beautified by a valuable oak wood, and hence
this place has been denominated Oaklands. It stands about a
mile from Ross, on a beautiful elevation above the road which
conducts you from thence to the seats which we shall just
notice on the Wexford bank of the river, and is separated from
this YQzd by a stone wall. At the lower end of the demesne,
as you proceed towards Stokestown, &c. the wood opens, and
admits the prospect of a little valley enclosed by planted hills,
which, in connection with each other, form a kind of rural
amphitheatre; and should you penetrate the improvements, you
will discover a deep glen at the bottom of those woods, which,
in the interior beauties of this demesne is a feature of no mean
character. When the young plantations of Oaklands are grown,
and the house finished, this seat will be one of the principal orna-
ments to the neighborhood of Ross.
In the article of prospect, it commands a view ol' Castle
AnnaghS on the distant bank of the river, which arranges it?
beauties in full view, and is the most striking feature, of the
landscape; this latter also includes part of the town of Ros^.
and those lofty mountains which bound the prospect beyond i<.
The Irish Tourist. 481
villa which stands like a snow-drop on the bank of the
river, embosomed in a dpp Oak-wood) — Landscape,
(the seat of Mr. Usher^ who has built a very handsome
school-house, on the opposite side of the road) — Pill-
town, (that of the Rev. Mr. Glascott, who farms a cotisi-
derable quantity of his own estate)— and .the glebe-house
of the Rev. Thomas Handcock, which we have just
noticed, as an interesting object in the landscape compre-
hensible in a view from Lady Esmonde's demesne. These
seats may be considered as in the vicinity of Ross, the
most distant not being more than seven miles from that
sea-port ; and in an xsiimate of the beauties and ad-
vantages of this neighbourhood, they maintain a marked
position.
There is also on this side of the river (between
Oaklands and Pilltown) a very fine elevation, or site for
a mansion-house, on the lands of Stokestown, the pro-
perty of Joseph Deane, Esq. This, beautiful mount
commands one of the finest and most extensive views
of the river, the timber bridge of Ross, (ornamentally
painted,) a bold and romantic bank on the opposite side
of the riverr-of Oaklands' house, on a neighbouring ele-
vation, and of that still more highly improved and.
extensive concern of . Mr, MurpI y, (which we have
already noticed as one of the most splendid seats in
this district ;) but with all the advantages of prospect
which this proud elevation commands,, the proprietor had.
it in contemplation to build a new house near his oW officeSy
on a site, which, when put in competition with this
beautiful mount, would be a much more suitable position
for a barn or out office, ihsii for the dwelling-house of -i^
respectable familv.
' •" }j h .
482 The Irish Tourist.
Here I bad the pleasure of beholding near thirty
acres of green crops, and if we include potatoes, near
forty acres, as Mr. Deane (who is a farmer of the new
school) assumed me. An example of improved culti^
vation, so extensive as this, in the vicinity of Ross, was
highly gratifying, and I sincerely hope it may become
(in conjunction with other useful examples) an object
of general imitation to the people of this county, who
from the defective resources of their soil, would, we
conceive, derive peculiar ailvantages from this mode of
manuring.
The day after my visit to Stokestown, I drove to
Balliane, the seat . of Colonel OTerrall, (a gentleman
who had lately arrived in this country from the continent,
and is brother to Major O'Ferrall, whose seat, in the vici-
nity of Clonard, we have already noticed in the course of
these memoirs.)
Balliane-house, a handsome modern edifice, stands on
a bold position, near the western margin of the county
of Wexford, about six miles north-east of Ross, in a
neighbourhood considerably removed from public ob-
servation ; although in your progress from Innistioge to
Ross, you obtain an interesting view of this seat,
from the road near Mount Garret castle. It commands
the prospect of a fine open country towards Woodstock,
embellished by the seats and plantations of the Misses
Rossiter and Mr. Minchin, the castle of Mount Garret,
the silver current of the Barrov.', alisteniiig in the valley,
and of Lord Callan's lodge, from the attic story of the
mansion-house. In the parish where this- property
exists, a school has been cniiowed by the late Mrs.
Houghton Eolger, sister of the present proprietor, fur
The Irish Tourist. 483
the benefit of tlie offspring of the necessitous inhabitants
of that parish ; and in Ross, the fever hospital, a most
useful and laudable institution, is principally indebted
to the same family for its foundation and support.
In the immediate vicinity of Ballianc, "and in a valley
at the foot of this proud elevation, stands Berkely,
the seat of John Berkely Dean, Esq. (brother to the
Mr. Dean recently noticed.) This seat, from its low
position and the recluse neighbouthood in which it is
situate, does not command the attention of the traveller
on any of the roads of that country which have come
under our observation ; and if we except a chain of lofty
hills which bound the landscape comprehensible in a
view from the lawn, we know of no other objects which
this seat commands, deserving of topographical de- ,
scription. Its advantages are those which have affinity
rather to comfort than to splendor, the house being neat
and adequately commodious, and the demesne respec-
table in its resources and appearance. The religious
and moral worth of this family (of which in the course
of a free conversation the Author was furnished with
some pleasing proofs) was the best feature of Berkely,
in his view ; and he acknowledges "with pleasure (what-