racter, (with the exception of one or two violent erup-
tions, produced by the operations of a powerful in-
fluence on their ignorance and prejudices, and certain
disorders which continue to result from a flagrant abuse
of the sabbath.) It is to be hoped they have derived from
their recent jifllictions some useful lessons, and that nei-
ther the difliculties common to us all, under which they
labor, nor the most improper use which may be made
of their prejudices by crafty and designing rhen, may
ever again have power to render them the instruments of
a tragedy, to which the people of this country are truly
indebted for their deepest political misfortunes.
The Irish lourist, 5? 1
CHAP, xviir.
Author's second entrance into the County of Wicklow-^
He proceeds to Arkloxv on the coast of that County
Scats in that direction noticed— He enters the famous
Vale of Ovoka, and devotes a week to the inspection of
this beautful Valley and the Country around it-^
Queries proposed to the consideration of the Farming
Societies of Ireland— Brief description of the Town
and Manufactures of Rathdrum— Drives from hence
to Glendalochy a romantic retreat in the mountains of
Wickloxo— History and Antiquities of this famous Val-
ley, noticed— Description of the Toxvn and Harbour of
Wicklow— General observations on the Imis of this
district— Enters the DeviVs Glen— Description of that
Natural Curiosity— Proceeds to Newtoxon Mount Ken-
nedy— Visits Altadore, Mount Kennedy y and other
Seats in that neighborhood— Brief description of the
Church and Village of Delgany—He advances to
Bray— Farther description of this neighhorhood~B c.
netrates the Country to Powerscourt— Visits the Dargle
Glen, and Splendid Cascade at Power scourt-park
Description of those objects — Peculiar gratification de-
rived from a visit at the interesting Cottage of the
Hon. Matthew Plunket — Author seized with ijidisposi-
iion in his progress to visit Lcgalaxc—Departs from the
County of Wicklow and returns to IVaicrford— Seats
and Scenery in the vicinity of that City described—
Compelled by the Season and other tircumstayices to cut
short his inspection of tlie Country in this direction, he
572 The Irish Touristy
returns through Carlow to Dublin, arrives in that
City earlj/ in the Month of December, 1814, and sits
down (after numerous perils and hardships) to call into
order from the confused elements of his travels, this â–
first Volume of THE IRISH TOURIST.
ENTRANCE INTO THE COUNTY OF WICKLOW.
From . Gorey I drove to Arklow, a town in the County
of Wicklow, though not much frequented, yet particu-
larly well circumstanced for sea-bathing, from its prox-
imity to the water, and rendered justly remarkable in
the topography of that county, by the famous vale of
Ovoka, which approaches near the town, and may be
considered as one of the finest combinations of art and
nature in any country. But in addition to the shade of
celebrity which this valley leflects on the town of
Arklow, the latter has the advantage of being situate in'
the^i€inity of various other objects of high distinction
in the' topography of Wicklow, among which, Bally-
arthur, on the margin of the vale, Shelton, the seat of
the Earl of Wicklow, and Poolahon}', that of Earl
Carysfort, may be considered as the principal, although
there are several seats of less magnitude which deserve
to be noticed, as contributing a due proportion of in-
fluence to the general beauty of the country. Of these
latter, Emmavale, the seat of Colonel Christmas, within
an Irish mile of Arklow, on a road leading from thence
to the golden valley, and near the public road from
Gorcy to Arklow, was one of the first I visited. It
stands on a gentle elevation over a valley richly wooded
by the plantations of Poolahony, the scat of Lord
Tlie Irish Tourist. 573
Carysfort, who resides in England, and this valley and
gentle elevation, being surrounded by a chain of moun-
tains, the landscape assumes the appearance of a splendid
amphitheatre, enlivened by the seats and plantations of
Poolahony and Emmavalle.
VALE OF OVOKA.
This rich and beautiful valley may be considered as
extending about seven miles, from the bridge of Arklow
to that called the meeting-bridge (from the rivers Avon-
more and Avonbeg, which meet there) at the foot of
Castle-Howard, an Alpine gothic castle of great beauty,
which stands on a lofty pinnacle above the Avon (the
name by which those waters are distinguished, after
forming a junction at the meeting-bridge) and this river
proceeding towards Arklow, embraces, in its progress,
at the foot of Knocknamohill and the lofty plantations of
Ballyarthur (in a beautiful and spacious portion of the
valley which unites with the golden valley*) the river
Derry or Derragh, and thus reinforced, it proceeds
through this enchanting valley to the ocean, from thence-
forth denominated, byway of distinction, the Ovoka river.
The bridge of Arklow and the meeting-bridge, may there-
fore be considered with propriety, the extreme points of
this interesting valley, although its principal beauties
are concentered on the banks of the Ovoka river, and of
these, the portion comprehensible in a view from the
octagon of Ballyarthur, but still more eminently from
* So called from a small quantity of this Valuable ore having
been found there.
574 The Irish Tourist.
the summit of Knockiiamohill is undoubtedly the master
feature.
To attempt a description of tlie rural charms by which
this object (or any other striking feature of the Wicklow
district) is distinguished — To conduct our readers along
the banks of rivers which pursue their variegated
course, in the view of gothic castles, through mountains
of valuable ore, and lofty plantations, which here open
into spacious amphitheatres, and in a moment enclose
within their luxuriant embrace the path of those waters
which guide the traveller to his place of rest, is a task
with which the talents of a Thompson, a Shenstone, or a
Moore, may be perfectly commensurate, but which will
be very badly performed indeed by the pen of a dull
prose writer.
To see this^ valley to advantage, the beauty and boldness
of the elevated lands which enclose it, and the improve-
ments of the neighboring country, it is necessary to drive
the whole way from Rathdrum to Arklow. From a lofty
position called the meeting-hill, on the public road near
the meeting-bridge, (as you proceed in this directiorf,) and
from a like elevation on the road to Tinnehaly, called
Knockanode, you have a very grand and interesting view
of Castle Howard, (the seat of Colonel Howard) and of
' the scenery which surrounds that splendid castle. De-
scending from these hills, you pass over meeting-bridge,
and enter upon that valley which is the subject of our
description. In your progress, you pass through tlie
copper-mine mountains of Bally murtagh and Cronebane,
which enclose the river Avon, and the path which con-
ducts, you on its bank to the^ deeper recesses of the
valley. These mountains are breasted in one point with
The Irish Tourist, 575
lofty perpendicular rocks, directly opposite each other,
as though they had originally formed one stupendous
mountain, and that the valley which novv passes through
it, fertilized by the waters of the Avon, and furnished with
a public road for the accommodation of the traveller, was
indebted for these advantages to the gigantic labors of the
rustic pionier. In your progress through this part of the
valley, Mr. Johnson's neat little villa beyond the river,
presents itself to view (on a gentle elevation, in the
centre of a richly planted landscape) as a little spe-
cimen of Wicklow comfort. This useful citizen has
also a flour-mill on the river, which is not only a
source of profit to himself but of great convenience
to that neighborhood.
Ballyarthur, the property of the Reverend James
Symes, is by far the most striking and important seat oa
the elevated banks of this valley. It Is situate about four
miles N.W. of Arklow, and extends for a 'considerable
distance above the village of Newbridge, along the
northern bank of the Ovoka river, towards Arklow.
The demesne comprizes about four hundred Irish acres,
a considerable proportion of which is covered with lofty
oak woods, through which there are several interesting
openings to the valley, but that which forms the re-
ceptacle of a rural arbour, called the octagon, (from the
number of its sides) commands by much the most open
and extensive view of the beauties of Ovoka, and fur-
nishes accidental visitors who often dine there, with no
mean accommodation in their progress through those
woods.
576 The Irish Tourist,
ROADS.
The mail-coach road from Gorey to Arklow was so ex-
tremely rough for the last few miles, as to be utterly
disgraceful. Ruts, holes, and high stones, marked the.
road, and painfully exercised the traveller's feelings for
that portion of the communication which is next to
Arklow. Several parts of the road which passes through
llie vale of Ovoka, and various other roads in. the same
neighborhood, were also very defective. The approach
through Ballyarlhur demesne to the dwelling-house,
when put into competition with the beauties of that place
and of the neighboring valley, was very shocking also,
but Mr, Symes, in the autumn of 1814, was opening a
new approach through the plantations on his demesne,
which woods, when complete, will no doubt quadrate with
the character and consideration of that seat. '
ORCHARDS.
There are cherry-orchards in this valley, which as a
tolerably good imitation of the vineyards of France and
Italy (and the best which an Irish valley could be ex-
pected to produce) are very much in character with this
scene, and an important accommodalion to the company
who resort thither in the autumn season for the enjo}''-
xnent of its be-iiuties.
In your progress from Rathdrum to the mceling-bridgr,
you pass by Avondale, the beautiful demesne of Wm. '
Parnell Hayes, Esq. and Kingston, the interesting vilU
of Doctor Mills King. A deep and richly wooded glen |
1
The Irish Tourist. 577
watered by the Avonmore, passes through Mr. Hayes's
demesne, and is an appendage of great beauty to that
fine residence. The traveller of taste who passes through
this part of Wicklow, will miss the observation of an
important beauty, if he passes by this seat without in-
specting it.
ROADS, MINES, &C.
Of two roads which issue from the meeting-bridge, as
you proceed towards this bridge from- Arklow, one con-
ducts you on the right hand to Rathdrum, and another
which proceeds in nearly a direct line from thence, con-
ducts you to the village of Bally naclash, Whaley-abbey,
and the lead-mines of Glenmalier, which happily for the
people of that neighborhood, (amongst whom the blessings
of plenty aie diffused by this establishment) are now
working with spirit, and we hope adequate profit to the
proprietors. This, I am sorry to say, cannot be said of
the copper-mines of Ballyraurtagh, which have been re-
cently noticed, and which for several years past have
been totally abandoned, after having been conducted
with diligence and great benefit to that part of the
county, for near half a century. It is of the highest
importance to the success of our Irish mining establish-
ments, that proper persons should be brought over from
England for the management of these works, or in other
words, that no reasonable expence should be spared for
the purpose of procuring those whose scientific and prac-
tical knowledge of mming can be satisfactorily proved to
Irish companies, by the solvent securities which they pro-
duce. For want of this caution it is to bi* apprehended,
that personsdefective in knowledge and integrity have
O o .
S7S The Irish Tourist.
sometimes been deputed to conduct iho«e departments,
whose promises being sanguine, and their services easily
procured, it is to be feared that several of our Irish com-
panies, in the selection of such persons, have fallen the
victims of iheir own ill judged oeconomy. The Crone-
bane mines, though as I heard, (when passing through
that neighborhood in the autumn of 1814,) were doing
but little business in comparison of their former works,
were nevertheless proceeding slowly in their preparations.,
for farther trade.
WOOLLEN M-^NUFACTURE.
Mr. Hayes, the gentleman whose seat we have just no-
ticed, has established on a patriotic priuciple, a factory
(in the valley of Glcnmalier, within half a mile of the
lead-mines and five miles of Rathdrum,) for the manu-
facture of coarse woollen cloths. This establishment
which necessarily employs a number of the poor in that
neighborhood, was going on with spirit in the autumn of"
1814, and in a neighborhood hitherto eminent only for
the manufacture of flannels, may be considered as a good
advance in the trade of this county.
SPECLMENS OF FARM-HOUSES, CROPS, MANURES, ANI>
RURAL TRAFFIC.
Beside the road which conducts you through the
vale of Ovoka to Newbridge, Ballyarthur and Rathdrum,
there is another which conducts you to those places from
the same town, by the avenue of Shelton, the splendid
seat of Lord Wicklow. On this mountainous road there
fire only a few neat villas to attract your attention, until
you ar.ive at Ballyarthur-liill. Of these, Sheep-walk^
.^ The Irish Tourist, 5^9
the neat farm-house of Mr. Thomas Murray, and Mine-
view, that of Mr. James Kilbe.)'-, appeared good models
for the respectable farmers of that country, and would
have been still more so, if Mr. JVIurray had built his
house on a more elevated site, and had not placed his
hay-yard on that end of his house which is next the
public view. In this respect, Mine-view is faultless,
and when the elevattd grounds, behind the dwelling-
house are planitd, the friend of ^Vicklow improvement
may safely hold forth this prettily circumstanced villa, as
a good model to the farmers of that neighborhood. I was
a good deal surprised to see a wheat crop on the farm of
Mine-view or Ballycoolen, near the Wicklow mountains,
look much more luxuriant than many similar crops on the
vallies through which I had passed this autumn. Mr.
Kilbey estimated this crop at ten barrels to the acre, and
I should not think it an exaggerated statement. This
produce, however, they say, is common in this part of
Wicklow, and if so, undoubtedly places the soil in a
scale of considerable superiority, for the production of
this grain, to the soils of several much more level coun-
ties, in the middle district of Irt^land.
Certain traders in Wicklow and Arklow, import lime-
stone from Howth, Carlingford, and other parts in the
vicinity of Dublin, which they burn and sell to the
farmers in this part of Wicklow. From forty to eighty
barrels of this burned lime, (according to the quality of
the lime and soil)-.will manure an acre of their land, and
will produce, on an average, about three crops, previous
to its being let out for grass. The farmers in the neigh-
borhoods of Arklow and Rathdrum, also procure lime
from the County of Carlow, which thpy consider upon
O 2
580 The Irish Tourist.
the whole, superior in quality, to that imported from
the neighborhood of Dublin. The Carlow barrel is also
much larger than the other, and from these advantages,
they find it worth their while to send men and horses to
that county for this useful article, a distance of at least
thirty miles.
The Wicklow soil, in the article of feeding, is appli-
cable, for the most part, to sheep and light black cattle,
as is usual in mountainous districts — there are parts of
the county which may deserve a higher denomination,
but prime fceding-gfound is, wc presume, but rarely
met with in this county. Green crops, if we except,
potatoes, appeared but little cultivald by"the farmers in
general, so sar as I had opportunity of observing. Mr.
Symes, Mr, Hayes, Dr. Mills King, and several other
gentlemen of landed property, form, of course, excep-
tions to this rule, as people of their rank do in every
county ; but green crops, as a profitable preparation of
the soil, and useful article of feeding, do not appear to
be a staple branch of the agricultural ceconomy of this
district.
VALE OF OVOKA RESUMED.
We have already remarked that this is a scene better
adapted to the luxuriant fancy of a poet, than to the
Tjhltgm arid stupidity of a dull prose writer. To supply
therefore what is unavoidably defective in our own de-
scriptioa of this interesting valley, we here introduce
the incomparable melody of our countryman Moore, as
a dcscit well caicuhited to rerauncratt; for the brevity and
sinnpiicily of the previous entertainment. The whole of
tbii valley ^opears marked ralhcr by the sublime and
The Irish Tourist. 581
beautiful, than the awful and terrific. The latter may
characterize the Devil's glen, and one or two other works
of nature in this county, but when accomplishing the
beauties of Ovoka, she seems to have been in a more
mild and softened mood, and to have studied rather to
\ amuse and interest her children, than to overpower them
with terror and surprise,
THE MEETING OF THE WATERS— bjj T. Moore,.Esq.
1.
There's not in the wide world a valley so sweet.
As the vale in whose bosom the wide waters meet ;
Oh! the last rays of feelinj; and life must depart,
'Ere the bloom of that valley shall fade from my heart.
2.
Yet it was not that nature had shed o'er the scene^
Her purest of crystal, or brightest of green,
'Twas not the soft magic of streamlet or hill.
Oh no! it was something more exouisite still.
'Twas that friends the belov'd of my bosom were here.
Who made cv'ry dear scene of enchantment more dear,
And who felt how the best charms of nature improve.
When we see them reflected from looks that wc love.
Sweet vale of Ovoka how calm could I rest.
In thy bosom of shade with the friends 1 love best.
Where the storms which distract this cold world should cease,
And our hearts like thy waters be mingled in peace;
583 TJie Irish Tourist.
CRITICISM.
Moore's melody was not rnaJe, Dr. King says, on the
junction of the waters of the Avontnore and Avoubeg,
at Mccting-bndge, but on iliobc of the Avon and Dcrragh,
in that beautiful portion of die vallny which we have no-
ticca between Knocknamohill and Ballyarlhur. He main-
tains that thib piece was composed in the demesne of
Ballyarthur ; and that the vale of Ovoka which is here
complimented, commences, not at Meeting-bridge, but
at the meeting of tlie Avon and Dcrragh, which from
thenceforth forms the Ovoka river, and proceeding to
Arklow, gives to this portion of the valley (ihrough
which it passes,) and to this exclusively, the name of
the Ovoka valley.
In answer to this new construction of the vale of Ovoka,
â– vve beg leave to observe, that though the principal beau-
ties of the valley arc certainly concentred on the banks
of the Ovoka river, (between Ballyarlhur and Arklow,)
yet the valley, with equal certainty, extends from Arklow
to the Meeting-bridge, at the foot, of Castle. Ho ward,
and on this principle, Major Millar who lives near this
bridge, has called his lodge on the road side, " THE
OVOKA COTTAGE," a title •which becomes futile, if bally-
arthur be the northern extremity of the valley, and if
on the meeting of the waters here, and not on those
at Mceiing-bridc, Moore composed that popular and pa-
thetic melody, which has given celebrity to the place.
FARMING SOCIETY.
A farming society has been formed in the County of
Wicklow, but as we arc not acquainted with the history
TJie Irish Tourist. 583
of its acts, for the promotion of improved agriculture
and the comforts of the peasantry, and have only heard,
that it is highly respectable, and possesses very ample
funds for these pur[)oses, we shall beg leave to supply
our defect of information, so far, by proposing a few <
<3ueries (which originated, in part, in a course of free
conversation with a respectable farmer of this district)
to the consideration of the farming societies of this
country.
Q,aere 1st. — Have the exertions of thefai-ming societies
of Ireland to improve the practice of the middle classes
of agriculturists, and to promote the comforts of the
poor, been attended with success proportioned to the
labors of those respectable bodies, and to the ample funds
which have been raised by the patriotism of the nation
for these purposes?
Quere 2. — If effects have not been proportioned to
the virtue of the original design, and to the ample con-
tributions which have been levied on the patriotism of the
nation ; would it not be meritorious in the farming so-
cieties to investigate the causes of impediment, and so
far as they are discovered, to have those impediments
removed ?
Quere 3. — I\Iay it be presumed that the high prices of
agricultural implements at the farming repository in
Dublin, and the non-establishment of cheap manufacto-
ries in rural districts, is one of those causes?
Quere 4. — To elevate the character and oeconomy of
Ireland to the standard of sister countries, is it sufficient
that tile respectability of her counties occasionaby meet,
dine together, make collections and give premiums for
584 The Irish Tourist
degrees of improvement, which can affeet only, or
principally, the first and second ranks of society?
Quere 5. — Do these proceedings, though forming a
noble fpundation on which to erect national prosperity,
reach the low and languid springs of the country, and
furnish them with a strong and steady impulse to im-
provement?
Quere 6. — To effect this object, should not an increase
of attention be paid to the lower classes of society, and
such exhortations and encouragements held out to them,
individually, as would, in the course of time, effect a
sensible improvement, in their practice, habitations,
and mode of living ?
Quere 7. — Can this be done by any other mode than
the appointment of an agent in each district (interested
in the welfare of the country, intimately acquainted with
the dispositions and habits of the people, and superior
to such difficulties as might countergct his views,) to
visit, explain and hold out to the inhabitants, the advan,.
tages which would result to them from a cordial co-ope-
ration with the objects of a national and patriotic instit
tution r
REMARKS. — Tt is only by acquiring the confidence and
affections of the Irish people, that they will be led into
those useful improvements which would prove profitable
to themselves, and ultimately honorable to the character
of the Irish nation. They are not always alive to argu-
ment, nor to elevated example, but touch the spring of
their affections, and excite a spirit of emulation amongst
them, and you may do something. This, with regard
to that class of the population which has acquired pro-
perty, is peculiarly true. If their next neighbor has
The Irish Tourist, 585
been prevailed on to attempt certain improvements, and
has succeeded in his enterprlze, they will not be behind
hand. Mnke the experiment, and try if an agent having
intercourse with, and possessing the confidence and af-
fections of the warm hearted Irish, will not do more to-
wards their improvement in three or four years, than the*
cold recommendations of ten annual assemblies. Such
an agent or inspector, if qualified for his task, would
render effective, so far as was practicable, every praise
worthy plan of the farming or other patriotic bodies, for
the improvement of this country, and by his frequent
visits and cordial attention, in aid of those premiums
•which are the trophies of success, would probably effect
those objects, which philosophical experiment, the ex-
amples of the great, and even the stimulus of premiums
singly, have failed to produce.
It is far from our wish by any hints which have been .
here suggested, to diminish that respect which is so justly
due to the gentlemen of Ireland, for that foundation of
jig.tional improvement which they have meritoriously laid/
We only wish as they have laid a foundation, that they
would build upon it a superstructure suited to the ne-
cessities of the country. The annual festival of the dif-
ferent farming societies, as constituting a centre of
union to certain classes of agriculturists, we greatly ap-
prove of, and sincerely hope, that that languor or torpi-
dity which too often seizes public bodies, may not para-
lyze the energies of this also. If at these annual assem-
blies, a printed staUment of thcfandsy with the society's