handsome seat beneath it, with the lawns and plantations 1
of those scats, is incomparably fine, and in your ap- i
proach to inspect the beauties of that neighborhood,
are thc'first objects of consideration which catch your at-
tention.
A little below Powerscourt is the village of Enniskerry,
which stands in a comparatively low position, and is
composed of about twenty houses. Though unprovided
The Irish Touristy 615
witli fair, market, or post-office, it has a pretty extensive
inn, where gentlemen who come to visit the curiosities
of the country, can be accommodated with neat articles.
A house which stands at the bottom of a valley beneath
this village, under the shelter of a planted hill, is a very
pretty object in this scene, although the residence only
of an humble publican.
THE DAUGLE.
This grand natural curiosity is situate on the Powers-
court estate, about nine miles south of Dublin, and four-1
teen north of Wicklow. It is composed of a deep glen>
extending about an Irish mile from west to east, enclosed
by mountains covered with lofty oak, the native produce.
of those mountains. Through this glen, the Darglc
river, (after forming at Powerscourt-park, about three
miles south west of the glen, a waterfall of three hundred
and fifty feet deep,) descends with rapid force, echoing
its hoarse murmur to the mountain?, in its progress to
the sea, into which grand reservoir it empties its accu-
mulating stores, within a short distance of the town of Bray.*'
* This celebrated waterfall, which from the lawn beneath it,
appears nearly perpendicular, descends into the valley from au
immense mountain of .roc k^ with whicli a circle of mountains
(covered for the most part with spontaneous oak, and forming
an amphitheatre of about two Englislv miles in circumference,)
unite, and present the spectator with as grand and interesting a
spectacle as the niost sanguine appetite for natural beauty could
desire to enjoy. The approach to the waterfall is through this
splendid panorama, which sheds a considerable influence of
grandeur upon that secluded scene. At the lower end of this
spacious enclosure, you pass over the river by a wooden bridge,
into a laivn ornamentally planted. Here you see the waterfall
616 The Irish Tourist.
The Dargle glen is accommodated with a walk on the mar-
gin of the river, and wiih another considerably elevated
-above that object on the northern bank. Of ihese walks
I preferred the latter, as possessing a more commanding
view of that tremendous steep, as opening beyond the
north east valley decorated with seats and plantations,
a rich prospect of the sea, of the romantic mountains of
Killiney, with their obelisk and tower j and also, as a
point of no mean consideration to a nervous man, as sup-
plying the animal functions with purer aif than could be
enjoyed at the bottom of a glen, where lofty mountains
bending with the weight of their forests over the
deep and dusky valley beneath, preclude the access
of a thin atmosphere, and render respiration, to such a
Jiervous habit, extremely difficult. From the same lofty
positioa we have noticed (as commanding the prospect of
Killiney and the channel) by turning round, you will
contemplate with pleasure the greater and lesser sugar-
loaves, elevating with incomparable grandeur their much
more lofty summits above the Dargle forest j and pro-
ceeding a few paces forward, you will arrive at a position
called the lever's leap, composed of an immense mass of
to more advantage than from the lands on the other side of the
xivcr, and here, a banqueting house provided for the reception
of select companies^ will protect yoti from the storm, or afford
you a genteel resting place after the fatigue of travel. Between
this banqueting-hoiise and the river, yi>u contert:)plate the rapid
fall of the cataract through liie foHagc of trees, and tlirough
this medium, (considered as a picturesque object,) it is seen to
more advantage than from any other portion of that beau-
tiful lawn which approaches to the verge of the cascade, and
places you in perfect possession of that object.
The Irish Tourist. 617
rock whicli stands over the northern bank, and projecting
beyond it, furnishes, indeed, a most horrid prospect of
the precipice beneath ; so that even to contemplate for a
moment the possibility of a human being casting himself
from this Alpine pinnacle, (so well calculated to remind us
of the tarpcian rock at. Rome) is sufficient to throw a weak
mind into disorder. This rock, however, without your pro-
ceeding to the verge, will placeyouin possession of the pros-
pectofavery fine portion of theglen,of Powerscourt-house,
and of many lofty mountains which enclose the landscape
beyond it, and proceeding still forward, you will arrive
at a comujodious bank called the view rock, where a vista
in the wood opens before ypu a much more spacious and.
satisfactory prospect of Powerscourt-house and planta-
tions, and of the mountains which enclose the landscap*
in that direction, than even the tarpeian rock itself, or
any other position we have noticed, save that of New-
Icwn-hill. If, however, we were romantically to suppose, .
that these grand modilications of inanimate nature, pro-
duce on the mind of every beholder, effects proportioned
to their grandeur, we should, on trial of the fact, dis-
cover, that, in certain instaiices, we were wholly mis-
taken, and that of those names which poor blind fortune
has signally honored, and to whom the beauties of
nature come recommended by very strong arguments
indeed, there arc some who have unfortunately received
from nature, minds of as little and insignificant a stamp,
as the poor anirpals who graze upon those verdant lawns
which unite with their forests and lofty mountains to com-
plete the beauty of the country.
While in this neighborhood, I spent part of a week
much to mv sati-^faction, at the interesting cottage of the
618 The Irish Tourist
Honorable Matthew Plunkett. This little straw roofed
edifice, stands on a pleasing elevation above the village
of T Newtown Mount Kennedy, and is rendered remark-
able by one of the most beautiful cottage) gates which I
recollect to have seen in the course of my travels. This
gate which guards the approach to the lawn, in form,
is so similar to net work, though composed of iron, that,
it perpetually reminded me of Dr. Johnson's perspicuous
explanation of that knotty word, which for the informs.-
tion of our unlearned readers, we beg leave to copy —
<^*' Net-work is auT/ thing verticulated or decussated at
equal distances^ with interstices between the intersec-
tions,''^ &c.) but the gate of Greenwood-lodge is not the
only feature of that place which deserves attention. The
interior of the cottage (the exterior appearance of whichj
promises you only two small apartments and a slender
hallj) comprizes a neat and elegant suite of rooms, with
the addition of a green-house on the west end. Ad-
joining this is the drawing-room, a very neat apartment,
which when illuminated, in conjunction with the green-
house, on a winter evening, and the former enlivened
by a party, must give to that beautiful wing of the cot-
tage, all the vive grace of a fete in the most splendid of
our country villas, while the generous temper of the
proprietor, and mild and softened manners of his lady,
with their mutual hospitality (if I may judge of the hap-
piness of others by my own) promise to the friends they
honor, more real felicity, than, I presume, is usually to
be found at the crowded fetes of fashionables, in large
cities.
November 1st, 1S14, I proceeded from this hospitable
seat to Legalaw, to examine the glen, lake, and other
The Irish Jourist. 619
curiosities of that place, after having waited three days
for favorable w^eather, to accomplish this visit.
Having clambered up the Wicklow mountains for se-
veral miles (for the road from Newtown Mount Kennedy
to the summit of those mountains which guard the ap-
proach, to Legalaw, is a perpetual ascent) at length I ar-
rived on the top of those bold encIosures,-mthin view of
the glen j but as if fate or Providence had. determined to
withhold from me the enjoyment of this curiosity, imme-
diately on attaining the summit of those mountains, I was
seized with such strong nervous indisposition, as to be
rendered wholly incapable of descending to the scene of
my pursuit, in which I had promised myself all that ro-
mantic pleasure, which is derived from the contemplatioa
of that mixture of the sublime and beautiful, for which
Leo-alaw is reputed to stand conspicuous among the na-
tural beauties of this country. On descending from the
summit of the mountain towards Newtown Mount Ken-
nedy, I gradually recovered ; and thus, after waiting
three days to visit Legalaw, and arriving, like Moses,
within sight of the promised land, this long meditated visit
to the deep and sequestered beauties of this valley, was
forced prematurely to expire,
WATEnrouD.
The day after the disappointnient which I have just
noticed at Legalaw, I set off for Watcrford, and passing
through Arklow, Gorey, Ferns, Fnniscorthy and Ross,
arrived at that city, on Wednesday, November Drh,
1814, and to my utter astonishment, found the streets as
completely deserted at the hour of seven o'clock in the
evening, as jf the plague was ringing in Turkey, and
620 The Irish Tourist,
that four or five ships had arrived in the harbour of Wa-
terford from that country, without performing quarantine.
Every subsequent evening, however, Sunday excepted,
presenting the same dreary spectacle, at an hour when
other cities are alive with splendor. I concluded that it
was the custom of the people here, to remunerate them-
selves for a laborious attention to their civil duties, by
retiring at an early hour oi the evening, to scenes of
public entertainm'ent, or to parties formed for the enjoy-
ment of convivial intercourse..
In my progress to this city, I visited the cottage of
Major Quinn, and there had the pleasure of being intro-
duced to Alderman King, whose country residence de-
serves to be noticed in an estimate of the improvements
on the southern bank of the Suir. On this bank, there
are also the following deserving objects of attention : —
The neat villa lodge of Belvidere, the seat of Sir William
VatcheU — the handsome house and demesne of John*s-
bill, the residence of Counsellor Paul — the incomparable
and picturesque villa of Sir Humphrey May, Bart. — the
neat lodge of Belmont, the hospitable seat of Mr. Porter
— the ancient and respectable farm-house of Ballinakill,
the property of Mr. Nicholas Power — the house and de-
mesne of Faithleg, the seat of Cornelius Bolton, Esq.
beside various oiher seats, a copious description of which
would be utterly incompatible with the limits of this
volume.
On the northern bank of this river, the country is
beautified by the lofty and splendid edifices of Mr. New-
port tiie banker, his brother Sir John Newport, Ba|-l.
Snow-hill, the seat of Nicholas Power, Esq. Belview,
that of Patrick Power, Esq. and of several villfis of lesser
The Irish Tourist, 621
importance, in the same direction. To give my readers
some idea of these objects, and of the general aspect of
the country on the banks of the Suir, so far, I shall se-
lect two or three marked features of this portion of thfr
district, by way of example, and having offered a re-
flection or two which occurred to me on my first in-
spection of this neighborhood, shall hasten to the con-
clusion of this volume.
NORTHERN BANK OF THE SUIK.
BEI.VIEW.
Belview, the seat of Patrick Power, Esq. is situate
about three miles north of Waterford, and twenty-five
south-east of -Clonmel, in a neighborhood enriched and
•beautified by the seats of Failhleg, Snow-hill, and other
beautiful villas, which unite with the splendid waters of
the Suir, to enrich the prospect from that place. ,
The demesne of Belview, though comparatively new,
and the plantations only in a state of infancy, has never-
theless all those marks of good native ground-work,
which characterize the first features of a rich and perfect ,
concern. The lands sustaining these youthful improve-
tnents, constitute an area of two hundred English acres,
of a fine open and un.dulating surface, and the prospect
from thence (to Faithlcg-hill, the property of Mr. Bolton,
on the distant bank, of Snow-bill, that of Mr. Nicholas
Power, about two English miles down the river,* and of
* The handsome new edifice of Snow-hill, which commands
a view of Cheek-point, on the southern bank, would have been
much more eminent, as a subject of topographical description
and a striking feature of this country, had it been erected on
the summit of a^beautiful elevation^ within fifty or a hundred
perches of its prcstnt position.
622 Th& Irish Tourist,
the rocks of Carrick-burn, which constitute the north-
east boundary of the view) is incomparably fine, but
would have been still more so, if Faithleg-hill, and some
other beautiful elevations iff the prospect, had been as
richly marked by the finger of the planler, as those lawns
of Faithleg, which descend with infinite beauty from
the lofty mansion house above them, to the crystal
surface of the Suir.
• Beside these objects, Bqlview also commands a perfect
view of the lesser island of the Suir, containing about
one hundred and seventy acres of arable land, the pro-
perty of a Mr. Fitzgerald, with the luins of an ancient
castle, which is a good object in the general landscape.
The plantations of two or three villas of inferior mo-
ment, on the southern bank, unite with the more splendid
woods of Faithleg, to constitute one regular chain of
plantations on the summit of those finely elevated lands ;
and when, to the influence of these southern beauties on
the river and surrounding scenery, the Belview planta-
tions, in full growth, arrange their beauties on the
northern bank, this point of the country will be one of
the most rich and picturesque in the vicinity of Wa-
terford.
In your approach to Belview-house from the Water-
ford road, after you pass the second gate, you have a
grand and interesting view of that stupendous monument
of antiquity, Dunbrawdy Abbey. • It is seen at the dis-
tance of four or five mi|es on the north east bank of the
river, and in the constitution of this landscape, produces
a stronger effect than any other architectural object in
that scene.
The Irish Tourist. 623
-^ . SOUTHERN BANK OF THE SUIR.
MAY-PARK.
Of the various seats which grace the southern bauk of
the Suir, and command a rich and splendid view .of the
city, tl)at of May-park, the residence of Sir Humphrey
May, Bart, for the beauty of its position, stands de-
cidedly pre-eminent. It is situate on a gdntle elevation
under the shade of a light plantation, near a splendid
curve of the river, at the distance of about two English
riiiles from the city, the habitations of which, with the
beautiful spire of the cathedral, arranging themselves in
a form somewhat semicircular, and on grounds gradually-
elevated on the bank of . this splendid curve, are seen to
diffuse an incomparable influence, on the land and water
prospect comprehensible in a view from this seat.
This view is bounded on the west and south west
by the mountains of Cummoro and Monavullagh,
and by the hills of Faithleg, Raheen, and the lofty
Slievkultagh, on the north and north-east, while the in-
tervening valley, enriched by the beauties of Ballinakill,
Belmont, and various other objects, enliven the pros-
pect, and leave the imagination nothing to covet for the
completion of a picturesque scene, save that of rich
plantations, a species of improvement, of which this
country, when placed in competition -with some other
districts, appears strikingly destitute.
BELMONT.
Belmont, the villa of Mr. Porter, which has been al-
â– ready noticed, lyes immediately beneath May-park, o.t
624. The Irish Tourist.
the same bank of the river. It is not only a very pretfv
object in tliat landscape, but as commanding an oblique
view of tlie city, of Belview-house, and of various
interesting seats on the banks of the Suir, may be consi-
dered as a very desirable residence for a country gen-
tleman.
MOUNT PLEASANT.
From the elevated lands at the rere of Mount Pleasant,
the seat of Alderman Samuel King, there is an extensive
view of the surrounding country. The landscape (al-
though as we have already remarked, comparatively
barren of plantations) is eminently enlivened with villasj
diversified by hills and valleys, and rendered brilliant
by the waters of the Suir, which being eclipsed in se-
veral of its windings, by the gentle elevations which en-
close it, breaks forth with additional lustre through those
openings of the valley, which, as the modest handmaids
of the lofty lawns and lordly edifices which rise with
prouder dignity abtjve them^, are subservient to the ge-
neral beauty of the country. A very fine edifice de-
voted to the purposes of a charitable institution, called
the Blue-school, intended to feed, clothe, educate, and
apprentice to useful trades, seventy-five boys, is an ex-
tremely good object in this view. It is one of the most
elegant structures which I have seen enlisted in the serl
vice of a public charity, in this part of Ireland, and when
its beauty, as an object in this landscape, is combined
with the philanthropic use to which it is devoted, it is
not improbable but the observation of this edifice will
administer more pleasure to the heart of the feeling spec-
tator, than any other object in this rural scene.
The Irish ToitrisL 625
From the foregoing observations, it appears that the
lands in the vicinity of this city, particularly those on
the banks of the Suir, are richly adorned with villas;
but with a few happy exceptions, here nature appears,
in vain, to have opened her bosom Fraught with attrac-
tions to the eye and finger of the planter, since nothing
can he more obvious, than that, she has not derived from,
his cultivating hand, those lofty forests, which wave with
incomparable grandeur on the summits of our mountains,
or descending into the vallies, unite with the crystal
surface of our rivers and with the lofty woods above,
to clothe the architecture of the country in foliage
of gold and green, and give ..every portion of the earth
where they appear, the aspect of a second EdenT-NoT^
the country in this point of view, appears almost univer-
sally defective ; the lands also, as furnishing accommp-
dation to the traders of this city, to those gentlemen who
have chosen to make this neighborhood their residence,
and as being convenient to a goo.d market for the sale of
milk, and other products of the farm, are very dear,*
and so far it is not of vital importance to the country ;
but if these adventitious circumstances should give to
the lands more remote from the city, a factitious value,
the farmej, in times of depression like the present, may
find it difficult to combine his own interests with the
security of his landlord. ,
The country also, in the vicinity qf Waterford, whether
you inspect it on the north or south, presents tq the stran-
ger, rather the aspect of a country recently, colonized by
the English, than that of an old settlement, in the vicinity
" Small demesnes let from ten to fifteen pounds per acre.
. R r
626 The Irish Tourist,
of a rich and commercial city. The wild aspect of many
parts of ihe country, north of the river — the unplanted
state of oilier parts, on ^ which good buildings appear;
and lastly, that ignorance of the English language,
which so generally prevails among the lower classes of the
people,, and even among those who have frequent inter-
course with the city, are all favorable to this idea.
With regard to the language an^ manners of the su-
perior classes, these appear as perfectly refined, as those
of the same rank of society in any other district of the
island. Here, no doubt, as in all other parts of the
world,, society is made up of diversified characters, .and
hence the dark and dusky drapery, with which the be-
nign and heavenly form of virtue is surrounded, renders
the latter more luminous and cheering;- but although it
be the duty of a- painter of life and manner*^ to aim at
"impartiality, and" even to throw a shade of delicate tex-
ture over features of doubtful character, yet in intro-
ducing to public light the virtues which have come under
his own observation, he, at least, discharges a duty
which he owes himself, and on this ground I feel justi-
fied in making public* acknowledgement of the satisfac-
tion which I derived from the polite and hospitable treat-
ment of many gentlemen in the vicinity of this city,
whose names it would be tedious to introduce in detail.;
as also from the friendly conduct of a few inhabitants of
the town, among which latter, 1 beg leave to mention the
names of Doctor Poole, a respectable physician, and Dr.
Power, the titular bishop of Waterford, (an exemplary
christian prelate, to whom the formality of an intro-
duction was found needless.*)
^ Soon after my arrival in Dublin; at the close of my travels
2he Irish Tourist 62?
Here it may not be impertinent to notice a conversa-
tion which I had with a Catholic clergyman in this part
of Ireland. He remarked to me, (in allusion to the state
of Spain and Italy, since the restoration of Ferdinand
and the Popeto their respective dominions) -that he feared'
the continent, latterly, hadbeen retrogading fast towards
despotism and superstition, every vestige of which, as
being hostile to the progress of knowledge and true li-
berty, he wished to see destroyed 1 What a glorious ob-
servation this for a Catholic priest! May the sacred light
of truth, which has, so far, shed its influence on the'
mind of tliis worthy man, in like manner illuminate the
hearts of his brethren in this country, until the name of
catholic and that of philanthropist may sound synonimous
to those ears whiclrhavchitherto rung with the discor-
dant sounds of iheir'bigotry and intolerance. May those
harmless men, who Ly deeds of violence have been forced
to entertain an evil impression of this name, b}' striking
evidences,of virtue and unbounded liberality be drawn
into a cordial attachment to those people, a certain pro-
portion of whom they now reluctantly, yet unavoidably
â– ^behold with fearful suspicion.
• FARMING SOCIETY.
There is a farming society jn the vicinity of Water-
ford, of which (according, to our information) (he Mar-
quis, and Bishop, of Water ford, Mr. Bolton, and Co-
lonel Hardy, are presidents, and Coiinseilor King, son
of the Alderman, is secretary.
I so far J I waited on Dr. Troy, the Roman catholic archbishop of
! this city, on Dr. Hamill, the vicar-gencral of his diocese, and
I on several other Roman catholic clergymen, whose obligin^Tie-
,portrjK*nt has rendered thi^' public acknowledgment a debt of
I suiiefaciion which I awe to Riy own feelings,
628 The Irish Tourist,
This society has been recently establislied — t'tiey had
a great ploughing match in. the spring of .1814, and
afterwards dined together, but the old Irish, farmers are
said to be 'backward in making their appearance on those
occasions. It is, however, to be hoped, that some ad-
vantages will result to the country from this association,
though, from its being in an infant state, no material
effects have yet made their appearance. Mr. Murphy,
of Castle Annaghs, near Ross, Mr. Power, of Belview,
and Mr. Belcher, obtained the prizes for ploughing ;
and Mr. Thomas M'Dougall, of Waterford, a very-
handsome premium for the superiority of his potatoe
crops, in the autumn of that year. An acre of this su-
perior cultivation, produced two hundred and twelve
fcarrels of potatoes, at twenty-one stones to thebarrell,and
at Waterford prices, in the markets of November, 1814,
would sell for nearly .fSO sterling. This, SD far, is' a
good example to the country. I, enquired of Mr.
M'Dougall, as to his manner of cultivating this crop, to
which "he gave the following answer : " Drilled at three
feet distances, sets eight inches," and in the mode of
Culture to which he attributes his success, that of drawing
the mold from the root preparatory to earthing, and pul-
yeriziog it well, is, in his view, the principal. The
iield thus rendered remarkable for its produce, is in the
centre of as bad a farming district, as perhaps any in the
south of Ireland. It is piously to be hoped, that the ho-