and yet be sadly destitute of that biMievolence or love,
which is the only acceptable sprinjr of moral duty.
In lhi« neighborhood, I met with a military officer who
bad iccn much service abroad, and been no idle spectator
of the great things which are acting on tlie theatre of this
busy world — Time, and the various climaies ihrougli
which he passed, had left their visible impression upoa
bit countenance, but his mind seemed to have derived
eoUrgmicnt from the observation of that parental wing
of universal providence which hovers over men and nation*
— In the conversation of this gentleman and his wife, a
ycry amiable Englishwoman, I forgot my cares. Alas!
what a misfortune it is to m.uikind, that they should be,
* for the greater part, destitute of benevolence, since at
so "small a price as that of a little kindness, it is fre-
quently in their power to mitigate the inevitable ills of
life.
An incident of this officer's life, related to me in the
course of our evening's conversation, appearfng calcu-
lated to convey instruction to those wiio krc in dangerous
or difficult circumstances, and indeed to all, I shall here,
without apolog}', give the reader its outline — He had
been on board a vessel, in which also there were men of
different languages and religious creeds ; and in a sea
dangerous to navigate, a violent storm arose, which, iti
despite of the skill and utmost exertions of the mariners,
drove them on the verge of an immense rock, on the
coast of Spain — the crew looked for inevitable destruc-
tion, and every man called upon his God ! In the officer*
case, he said, he never before experienced such an
60 The Zrish Tourist.
energy in the exercise of prayer, as that which inspired
\i\m on this occasion. During this ctFectual fervent
prayer, which was pfifcrcd up without fear in presence of
the crew, the wind veered about, and bore them off the
rock toward a safe landing place, and they all escaped
with life — So sensible were the crew of this deliverance,
which particularly im'ressed the officer who related it,
that, the Christians and Mahommedans who were on
board, ascribed it with one voice, to the mercy of that
Supreme Being, whose commanding word the winds and
the seas obey. Happy are they, and. happy only, who
have him for their friend in all places In various pe-
riods of my life, had I been one of the ship's company,
I should have lified up my voice aloud, and in the ap-
propriate lines of the pious and venerable Addison, havo
sung
The storm was' laid, the winds letiied.
Obedient to tliy will.
The sea that roared at thy command
At thy command was still ;
Thro' every period of my life
Thy goodness I'll pursue.
And after death in distant worlds
The glorious theme renew
' I omitted mentioning in its place, that, on my way
from Cavan lo Kdlasandra, I lodged one night at the
house of Mr. Magraih, a magistrate for that county, to
whom I had been introduced by Dr. Murray — This
gentleman obliged me with letters of introduction to se-
veral persons of distinction in his neighbourhood, whose
patronatje I accordingly obtained — Mr. Magrath's ex,
ertions for the cducauoii of the poor, entitle him tQ
!Jlie Irish Tourist. 61
mucli credit Prior to Joseph Lancaster's visitation of
this country, lie went to London for the purpose of in-
specting the plan of his schools, and on his return home-,
established two or three seminaries of this kind on his
own land«, which I understand have been of great utility
\n that neighborhood.
' February 5il), 181 1, 1 left Bellurbet, and rode, through
heavy rains, and over hills, made slippery by the melt-
ing snow, back to Cavan. In this direction the traveller
passes by Anna, the seat of Mr. Baker, -which stands on
a pleasing elevation to tlie left, and is beautified by a lake
of that name wiuch surrounds the south west margin oi
the lawn, a chain of hills on the distant bank, and a
cemetery, or receptacle of the dead, which from
a sequestered spot at the foot of the lawn, sheds a vene-
rable influence on the surroundrng objects — Were clumps
of planting judiciously distributed on the hills which I
have just noticed, it would add much to the beauty of
this little landscape, which is rendered more interesting
and iu)pressivc to the traveller, by the circumstance of
its being the only object deserving of attention, on the
public road between Bclturbet and Cavan.
Bclturbet, is a market and post town, but docs not ap-
pear, to me, to have any thing in its trade, buildings,
or situation, worthy tlie attention of the cravclier. Oa
my arrival in Cavan, my clothes and even my boots were
wringing' wet, but after ihrowitig . off my outside gar-
ments, I drew near the fire at my inn, in good health
and spirits, and sung a chearful hymn— On this my se-
cond visit to Cavan, I obtained an increase of sub-
scribers to my book, amongst whom was Mrs. Patterson,
the lady" of Colonel Patterson, of the 21st foot — What
62 The Irish Tourist,
anuahle cbaracfers are these, and how particularly stri-
Itiof,' (li'i they appear in the army. The meek and con-
descending demeanour of Colonel Patterson, so suitable
to ihc character of a son of peace, arrested with admira-
tion the aaention of a man who moralizes upon every
thiii}^;, and who wondered to find, in a soil so uufuited to
its nature, the amiable and conciliating virtues of a Penn
and Benezel This genilemari was not above intro-
ducing me to the officers of his regiment on public
parade ; and is it matter of surprise that a stranger should
be forcibly struck with the virtues of such a character,
when he compared it with the empty and laughable pa-
rade of many men, who b} farming, jobbing, and shop-
keeping, have scaped together a little of this world's
wealth ! Here also I waited upon Mr. Magnire, a ma-
gistrate, and the agent of Lorti Farnham ; but how sur-
prised was I, when, upon examining his countenance
■with attention, I recognized the features of an old school-
fellow. Mr. Maguire being neither a coxcomb nor a
stoic, I found myself in the situation of Goldsmith's'
spendthrift, .vho
. . " no longer proud,
Claim'd kindred there, and had his claim allow'd."
There was, to be sure, this difference in our situations —
Goldsmith's poor felloA- had spent his all, and I had a
little left to work upon ; but Mr. Maguire regarding one
point only, viz. that an old school-fellow wanted his as-
sistance, subscribed at once to my volume, invited me to
dine the next day, and wrote to his brother in Dublin,
on my behalf, who subscribed for four books. Here I
me^ with a clergyman, the cousin-german and namesake
of an old acquaintance in the north, to whom 1 had ad»'
The Irish Tourist, 6S
dressed myself, in vain, when I first came to Cavan.
Thin gentleman having given a subscription to one of
my vagabond tribe, for a book which, perhaps, never
existed, but which, at all events, he never afterwards
heard of, teemed determined to' heave us all oflf at a blowr ;
but • Utile farther acquaintance I hope convinced hini,
that, however our aggregated stock of honesty might be
easily shipped, our individual interest in this great article
wa« too diverse to admit of a pai^tnership account.
When my business was accomplished in i Cavan, I re-
turned through Ballinagh to Kiilineleck, on my way-
home — Ballinagh, is a poor looking village, having, libe
[ the country between it and Kiilineleck, little to -captivate
' the eye which is fond of beauty. It has, nevertheless, a
\ good linen market, and ihis, to the inhabitants of its poor
t md barren neighborhood, is of more consequence than tall
'. edifices and fine demesnes — 'tis true, these, to me, are al-
ways charming ; the finger of creative beauty, as I saw
*il pourtrayed in the county of Leitrim, still more so, but
tho«c establishments which furnish my poor fellow beings
with comfort and independence, are most dear of all.
On this journey, I lodged a second time at the house
•f a clergyman, wlio had desired me to call and see him,
on my return from the north — it was in a country place,
and night had covered our hemisphere with her sable
inanllc when I rapped at his door — I entered, but soon
found my situation peculiarly afflictive ; however,
I passed the night in peace, and next morning early-
prepared to depart. My host who has, perhaps, as much
sensibility, as many in that department of the religious
world in which he once moved with some activity, unex-
pectedly appeared in the yard, before I mouutedj a/icl
64 The Irish Tourist*
in the altered voice of a friend and brotlier invited me to
gpend the day at his house, and go with him to the ciiurch
where he officiated, it being the sabbath — I was glad to
perceive that his heart was susceptible of conviction ;
but having evidence the night before, that the slender
services rendered nie by this gentleman and his family,
were more than I ouglu to have received, I bade hira'
farewell, and proceeded to Killinelcck, where, after at-
tending church service, I abode for the night. In a group
of religious) poor peoj^le in the vicinity of this village,
my attention was particularly pointed to one decent poor
woman, who, with a little property of perhaps forty or
fifty pounds, has given no less than four pounds to one
charitable institution — Proceeded from Killiiieleck to
Finnea, and from thence to Abbylara, a little village near
Gratiard. Here I obtained two subscribers, one of whom
the Reverend rector of this parish, is the most
primitive and patriarcbial looking clergyman which I had
yet seen in the English church — his person is tall and well
proportioned — his manners plain, benevolent, and unaf-
fected — his house, furniture, and family, particularly the
two former, displaying a simplicity highly congenial to
his character. This interesting rural priest, was dressed
in a full and easy drab coloured coat, aird black vest,
with large pockets, in the fashion of the last century,
— " his head was silvered o'er with age,", and on
the front, his venerable locks falling to- the right
and left formed a kind of seam, which seemed to add
beauty to antiquity. His appearance brought to my re-
collection, rather, the character and circumstances of a
.venerable puritan minister, in the seventeenth century,
than those of a rector of the established church, in IS 1 1
The Irish Tourist. 65
1 was the second professed author to whose work
this benevolent man had subscribed, in the course of
one week — I sincerely hope he may not be disap-
pointed.
From Abbylarra I proceeded to Granard — the next
day to Mr. Dobson's of Firmount, where I rested for the
night J and the day following pursued my route home-
ward ; where I arrived in tolerable health, on Saturday
evening, the IGth of February, 1811 ; having been ab-
sent about seven weeks, and obtained, in the course of my
journey, one hundred and forty subscribers, (in the
whole, two hundred and forty,) who had paid in their
lubscriptions toward the publication of my first volume.
On the road between Granard and Mullingar, and.
within about four or five miles of the latter, I had one
prospect from the coach window, and only one, worth
recording — I mean Lough Hoylc and the improvements
arounti it — from the best observation I could make from
•o unfavourable a situation, the lake appeared about a
mile broad, and perhaps a mile and a half from the road
wc travelled, to the improvements of Lord D'Blaquiere,
on the opposite side. Before you arrive within view of
Uic lake, your eyes are saluted with a handsome edifice,
planting and pasture grounds in its vicinity, the property
of Murray, Esq. whose lady has since be-
come a subscriber to this volume. These, having first
caught your attention, occupy it exclusively, until ad-
vancing to the spot, the lake and improvements of
Lord D'Blaquiere, leave you no inclination to dwell
longer on those of Mr. Murray The sensations
which I feel upon beholding such objects as these, I can-
not, however strongly inclined, convey, in their full
' E
%
66 The Irish Tourist,
force, to another — how pleasing do they appear, to the ^
man of sensibility — how calculated are they to soothe and
compose his heart: and when the hand of wealth and
power has sketched the drapery of those scenes, which
(for the exercise of its talents,) the Author of nature has
left unfinished ; how copious a feast is provided for the
traveller of sensibility, while the great painter of nature
is furnished with the finest originals for his canvas, that
the human imagination is capable of conceiving. I need
hardly tell my reader^ that I kept gazing upon the lake
and Lord D'Blaquiere's improvenaents, so long as I could
see them — but, as if to prevent the traveller from being
mortified by too sudden a transition, when the great view
begins to disappear, some improvements of Lord Granardj
who has a lodge near the road, present themselves, until
these also drop behind, and leave you to retire within
yourself for that entertainment which is no longer to be
found in the country around you. > .
The Irish Tourist. 6/
CHAP. III.
JSuthor visits ihe City of Dublin and the country aroundit
— Falls back, by a kind of retrogade motion, on Eden-
derry, Philipstown, and Tullamore — Minute description
of the latter town — Good order of , the Charter-schools at
Celbridge and Baggot-strect, Dublin, noticed -with plea-
sure — HuinorousDialogue with a Lady of fashion — Gra-
tifcation derived from an interview with a Lady of piety
and intellect — Particulars of the Author'' s illness at an
Inn — Humorous interview with an eccentric Clergyman
— Jieligious Persecution at Maynooth, noticed with dis-
approbation — Observations on the utility of Conversation
Cards, on a nexv principle — Brief Description of Mount
Lucas, and of the Country between Edenderry and
Philipstffwn.
AFTER resting about ten days at home, I set forward
for ibc city of Dublin, taking Tullamore and Rathangaa
in my way — In going to the latter place, on foot, I think
I never faced so strong a wind : the packet-boat horses
made head against it with great difficulty — I thought it
was a figure of my own circumstances, endeavouring to
make head- against the devil, the world, and my own pas-
iions ; sometimes assaulted by this combined army,
Bomctimes beaten back by it, at other times overturned,
but always returning to the charge and endeavouring to
go forward.
In Rathangan I obtained three subscribers, and on my
return from Dublin five more, amongst whom were Mr.
Bayly, the clergyman of that place, (a man, in whose
house I felt my aiind clothed with peculiar peace and
K 2
68 The Irish Tourist.
thankfulness) and Captain Gray, a gentlenaan distinguished
for his liberality to literary characters.
February 28, I arrived in Dublin ; but the sameness of
my employments there, must render them uninteresting to
my readers; and therefore I shall not disgust them with a
Tong history of my fatigues, my fruitless applications, my
various sicknesses, thro* change of beds, putrid air, effluvia
from eating houses, open sewers, tallow-chaudler's-
shops, nor with the misery, famine, and savage brutality
which are there obtruded on the senses, but shall pass on to
incidents of a less offensive character j assuring my rea-
der, before I lead him from those scenes into purer air,
that it would be matter, to me, of very great thankfulness,.
if I could pass the remainder of my days, without once
coming within the sphere of their noxious influence, or
wounding his sensibility by a repetition of such scenes. As
to attempting a portrait of this great city — its police — ifs
buildings — its charitable and commercial institutions — its
trade— Us harbour, its shipping, &c. &c. that is as much
beyond my leisure and capacity, as it is inconsistent with
the limits and multifarious objects of this work. I shall
therefore notice, in relation to my own circumstances,
that, my slavery, sickness, and disg.ust, there,, were not,
wholly fruitless— I obtained in seven or eight weeks,,
about one hundred and forty subscribers : these, for the
most part were merchants and other respectable traders ;.
but there were also a few of those called noble personages
procured for me by two or three amiable 'and benevolent
characters, whom I have the honor of ranking among the
number of my friends. >• .
April 20lh I returned home, after having made some
necessary arrangements in the printing line, for the better
The Irish Tourist. 69
circulation of- my first volume — Within four miles of
Dublin, having obtained a draught of pure water from
ihc spring, for which my exhausted nature had long
panted, I felt the principle of vitality revive; the pure
country air which I began to inhale, assisted also to re-
itorc mc, and after gently travelling fifty or sixty miles,
on horseback, the foul impression of those scenes through
which I had passed completely disappeared. This sen-
tence (containing a recipe for gouty and splenetic men,
for sots and drunkards, and also for men exhausted by
study and confmement) may be resorted to as a compen-
dium of " domestic medicine t"
In the course of a few -weeks, compelled by some ne-
ccwary affairs, I returned to the metropolis, and having
itaid two days there, accomplished the business
for which I went. In my progress I passed through
Cclbridgc, a village remarkable for the woollen manufac-
tory, which a company of English gentlemen have esta-
blished there, and which affords employment to several
hundreds of the laboring poor. I may also remark, that,
this village is honored with the residence of Lady Louisa
Conolly, a woman of the first family in the kingdom ;
but who derives from her conduct in society, a
much greater glory than from her rank — On ray return,
I passed through the same village, calling at a boarding-
•chool in the neighborhood, the pioprietor of whom, a
Mr. Coyne, enrolled his name in my catalogue — I visited
aUo the charter-school for females ; an institution under
ibc inspection of Lady Louisa Conolly and others — This
was the first unexceptionable charitable institution for
education, which I had seen ; those of the Quaker society
excepted— the school accommodates one hundred chil-
70 The Irish Tourist
dren and upwards, who are clothed, fed, and instructed
in the elements of English literature, and in useful works.
In general, they looked so clean, healthy and chearful,
that a man would conclude each individual as well and as
happily situated, as any farmer's daughter in the country
could possible/ be with a fortune of .£200 — the apartments
of this house are commodious and well ventilated — I vi-
sited them all, and found not only the hall and eating-
rooms, but even the dormitories pure, and cafJable of
being inhabited without offence — the play-ground before
the door — the garden in good order and well stored with
vegetables — the neatly divided farm — and above all, the
healthy aspect of the children, in their amusements,
were objects of the highest interest. I cried out, on be-
holding them, in the language of William Penn to
Cortez, concerning his improvements in the new world — -
" Here is a sight for an angel to behold."*
I have, since the period of my visit to this institution,
seen another of the same kind, in Upper Baggot-street,
Dublin, which so far as concerns the building and inte-
rior ceconomy, as also the clean and healthful appearance
of the children, equals, or, if possible, excels this: but
both of them reflect very great credit on the masters and
mistresses, and on the governors and governesses who su-
perintend tliem. The prospect of so many females, res-
cued from abject want, and perhaps from infamy,
placed under the care of piou? and humane charac-
ters, provided also with every necessary accommodation
for health and useful information, must not only afford {q'
* Sec the dialogue between Perm and Cortez, ia Lyltleton's
Dialogues of the dead.
Tlie Irish Tourist- 71
the beholder tlie sublimest satisfaction, .but reflect upon
the Government which has instituted them, the highest
honour.
I now proceeded homeward by Edenderry ; and on the
road visited Mr. Whitelaw, the rector of Straffan, a man
of benevolent character, and of manners in perfect unison
with rural life — Lodged by invitation at his house, and pro-
ceeded the next day to Edenderry — Here I rested one sab-
bath, which I spent, for the most part, at the house o f John
Taylor, an honest quaker, who had been usher at Ballitore
■cboo), tvhen I was there, but has now a boarding-school
of his own. Called also, on my way home, at the house of
a gentleman, who is a subscriber to tiiis volume, and dis-
covered with pleasure, in the course of conversation,
that his lady and my benefactress, Mrs. Nesbitt, are
nearly related — here, in the free and hospitable treatment
of the family, a drop of kindred blood was seen to ani-
mate ilic heart. About this time I visited TuUamore, in
my own neighbourhood, a town where I am well known,
and where a cousideral)le part of the most respectable
inhabitants and several military officers, are among the
number of my subscribers. I feel pleasure in hoping,
that religious and political acrimony are declining in this
' place, and that a consequent spirit of liberality is on
the increase — but alas! in every part of this professedly
christian country, religion, reason, and commerce, have
much to do before the great mass of the people will come
to understand their true interests — In the mean time, he
who presumes to point these out, must expect to be
viewed with a jealous eye, by those men, whose interest
it is to keep the people in ignorance and corruption,
Tullamore is a tolerably large and well built town, on
7^ The Irish Tourist.
the Earl of Charleville's estate, in the King's County — It
has a communication with the metropohs, by water, and
since it became a port of the Grand Canal Company,
has been greatly enlarged — The harbour is commodious,
and the stores for merchandize, ample and well con-
structed ; but except the Roman Catholic Chapel, and
Grand Canal Hotel, which are handsome edifices, I know
of no other public building of magnitude in that place —
the church, which 1 understand is soon to be replaced by
a new one, not in the town, but in its vicinity, is a
a building which has hardly any thing but its age and
the sacred use to which it is dedicated, to recommend it
to notice. The county infirmary is here, and I believe
■well maintained, but it is only a plain stone house of mo-
derate extent — I understand the Countess of Charleville,
has lately established a school here, on the plan of Joseph
Lancaster, for the education of poor children. I have
not yet had time and opportunity, to enter closely into
the state of this institution, but am informed, that, a
large number of children are now instructed there, and
that it promises much benefit to the neighborhood. I
had almost forgot the barracks — that for the cavalry is
enclosed by a wall round the concerns, and forms a neat
square of building, at the west end of the town — Tiie
other, which is but temporary, and is rented by government
from Mr. Acres, the proprietor, stands on a rising ground,
at the south east side of the town — it composes a part of
the street where it stands, and is a pile of building rather
plain and useful than ornamental.
Tullamore is composed of 5i.>: or seven streets; the
houses are, in general, slated and built with stone, and
ihr-r* arc. very few if any cabins in its suburbs, which
The Irish Tourist. 73
exhibit the striking evidences of wretchcdncsss and want.
The town, is watered by a river which issues near Gashall
a village in the same county, and empties itself into the
Brusna, a river of some importance in the King's County
and County of Westmeath. The main street extends
from the bridge to the foot barrack, about the space of
one furlong : here, and in the market square, are the
principal shops : both of these streets are roomy and well
calculated for trade — The square, serves not only to acco-
modate the people who bring their corn and merchandize
to market, but it furnishes the military with a commodious
parading place. There arc few inland towns, in the pro-
vince of Leinster, better supplied with provisions, than
TuUamore — it has two markets in the week, and several
fairs in the year, and these are in general well supplied