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YELLOWSTONE LETTERS
Yellowstone Letters
BY
RUBE SHUFFLE, Valet^^...<i
WRITTEN FROM THE NATIONAL PARK
TO HIS SWEETHEART
ILLUSTRATED BY A, G.iHEATON
Niw YoEK AND Washington
THE NEALE PUBLISHING COMPANY
1906
CorTKIGHT, 1906, BT
THE NEALE PUBLISHING COMPANY
Contents
LHTTTBIM TAQM
Ko. L— Prom Chicago, describes Rube Shuffle's en-
gagement for the Yellowstone Park ton?, t
No. 2.— Prom Liringston, Montana, describes the
Journey to that point IS
No. S. — From the Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel, de-
scribes the stage ride from Gardiner, the
hotel and its Ticinity and a walk to the
Hot Springs 17
No. 4.— Prom the same place, describes the vicinity
further, experiences at the hotel, and
some of the tourists 27
No. 5.— Prom the Fountain Hotel, describes the drive
of a stage party from the Hot Springs
to Norris' Lunch Station, the geyser
basin there, the continued drive to the
Lower Geyser Basin, the Foimtain Gey-
ser and the Paint Pots t7
No. •.-—Prom the Upper Geyser Basin, describes the
drive from the Fountain Hotel via the
Middle Geyser Basin, the formations
mainly of the west side of FIrehole
river, the temporary accommodations
•nd the eruption of Old Faithful 61
I
ivi585778
6 co:n^tei^ts
LETTERS PAQH
No. 7. — From the same place, describes the forma-
tions on the east side of the river, tent
life and a social evening 68
No. 8. — From the Lake Hotel, describes the drive
from the Upper Geyser Basin over the
Rocky Mountains to the Thumb lunch
station and thence to the north side of
Yellowstone Lake 74
No. 9. — From the same place, describes the lake and
its wide vicinity and the pastimes of the
hotel and camp tourists 85
No. 10.— From the Grand Canyon Hotel, describes the
drive from the lake and a visit to the
Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone 94
No. 11. — From the same place, describes the Falls of
the Yellowstone and an ascent of Mount
Washburn 106
No. 12. — From the Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel, de-
scribes the return drive and certain per-
sonal experiences of the party of tour-
ists followed 114
Illustrations
PACING PAOB
Viewing the Cascades 24
The Stage Party 38
Seeing "Old Faithful" 62
A Paint Pot Incident 80
Seeing the Bears 88
On Point Lookout 100
Prefi
ace
Thb following letters first came to the notice of
the writer of this preface when he was visiting
a family of Chicago friends who had passed the
summer of 1903 at their villa some distance up
Lake Michigan. Upon a chance reference, after
dinner, to the Yellowstone r^on, the genial
hostess said that a good-looking maid who waited
at tahle had shortly before confided to her, in as-
surance of the character of an attentive lover, cer-
tain extensive epistles he had written to her while
travelling through the National Park as a valet.
These were obligingly produced, upon an expres-
sion of curiosity, and seemed, despite the illit-
eracy of the man, so clear and copious in their
description of the wonderful region he saw, and
so original and at times amusing in their ob-
servations of human nature from his familiar
standpoint, as to promptly suggest publication.
Their writer, Rube Shuffle, happened to call that
evening upon his sweetheart in the kitchen and,
upon being asked to come to the library, was quite
9
10 PREFACE
gratified by the proposition, not only from an
evident pride in Ids productions but from the
possibility of material aid to his early matri-
monial plans.
Therefore, after an editing extending but little
beyond the excision of superfluous capitals, these
letters are given to the public in the belief that
they will interest and entertain, not only past and
prospective Yellowstone tourists but also the
more sedentary reader, by giving a better idea of
the Park tour in fact and spirit than the vague
eloquence or scientific gravity of more formal
writers. A. G. Heaton.
Washington, D. C, 1906.
!N"oTE. — It may be added that the names of
persons referred to in these letters are omitted for
evident reasons, and, further, that, as the
^^Count" decided, a while after return to Chicago,
to go abroad for an indefinite period, Rube left
a position that had become uncongenial to resume
his dress coat as a head waiter in a well-known
hotel. His marriage has since completed his
felicity.
LETTER NO. 1.
Chicago, Tuesday, July 14, 1903.
Mb Deab Sophie Ann,
I havn't wrote you for quite a spell, but, as you
might ha' knowed from me last, things was a
goin mighty bad. Us waiters at the hotel was
ordered to strike. I was gittin pay enuf and
stackin up a lot ov red chips to the good an I felt
kind o' sore to cast ofF an live on savins an dig-
nity, speshly as dignity aint over high feedin.
Howsiunever, quite onexpected, me botherin wus
ended an me clouds got silver plated sure. Jus
here's why I'm a crowin speshul now.
There wus a young swell at me table what alius
cum in late an wus alius most perticlar as to his
grub, a havin it hot when it ought to be, an never
havin his wine over cold. But his tips to me an
the head waiter an the chef, wich is the boss cook,
was proportional. So, when I sizes him up as
full blood an fat stuf, I just wears out a track
in that marble floor a waitin on him. Well, two
days ago, ater he'd lef nigh a glass in his quart
bottle ov high an dry fur me an was a sippin of
his petty ver, he up an says, "Rube, how would
you like to go with me to Yellerstun Park ?" I
was that dun over at his social way as I thot he
11
12 YELLOWSTONE LETTERS
had sure took some nips afore dinner, but I says,
"Count," (I alius calls him that to sweatin him
like) — I says, commencin, "Count, there's no
sich park about Chicago. The parks here is
named Lincoln Park an Jackson Park an both is
fine show places. But I thanks you pertickler
an, if I can get off me juties, I'll be most pleased
to drive out wid you." At that he lafs hearty.
Then says he, "You dont understan me, Eube;
I see you know nothin of Yellerstun Park." "N"o,
Count," I speaks up, "I never yet heard tell o' it
to now in me travels. What city might it be in ?"
showin a ignerence, me dear, that now shames
me mighty. After laffin once more, he says,
"The Yellerstun Park is a nash-nul un, about
seventy mile square, away in the Rocky Mount-
ings. This bein the best sesun to go, I've made
up me mind to take the tower an I wants a man
as vally. You seem a dutiful sort o' feller and
I'll make wages all right to pay you for leavin
your posishun here." I was so took aback that
I dropped the coffy cup I was a removin of, but
that time the head waiter's freezin stare didnt
faze me no how. I jus says, cautious like but
mighty full o' feelin, "Count, I have, certain, a
good place in this here hotel an gets fine tips
from many gents as shows up at me table, but
none is so high minded as you be an I likes you
too much to turn down such a offer, bein as val-
lys is held wery respectable. When does you
want me services ?" Then he says, "In three days
we'll start. Meet me tomorrer momin outside
LETTER NO. 1
the hotel an I'll take you to sum department
store or big tailer's an get you a outfit." So, when
he walks from the dinin room, I goes to that head
waiter wid me check rein on an head up, an,
when he begins a gassin about that little coffey
cup, I tells him me powers to please him is wain
an I quits that night. The boys never seed him
that wilted afore. That was two days off, as I
sed. Now I'm rigged out in great shape an me
an the Count starts tomorrer night fur that Yel-
lerstun place. I'm awful sorry, Sophie Ann, aa
you've took service in the country this summer
an as how I cant see you afore I goes away so
sudden, but I know^ you'll be as rejoicin at me
good luck as a rabbit eatin a carret, an I sends
you two tenners in this to keep you smilin, seein
I'm now flush wid me back pay an some green
gush me boss forked over, previous like, to make
me easy, he says, about goin. So dont be dismal
any, Sophie Ann, fur I thinks you fine as straw-
berry short cake an cream an, a'most every day
as I can, I'll rite you from that Yellerstun tower
to show I keeps you constant in mind an am a
hopein fur them times when we'll have no more
partins day nor night, bein as I am, truly an
forever,
Your lovin
RlTBB ShFFFLE.
P. S. — I'll number this letter and udders I
rites aterwards frum that ere Yellerstun tower,
so you'll know if they comes reglar. Seein as
the tower, the Count says, is a matter o' nigh
14 YELLOWSTOJSTE LETTEES
seven thousand foot higher nor Chicago, the car-
rier maynt cum up every day, but ther'll sure be
some elewators.
P. S. 2. — These last words asks you, Sophie
Ann, not to be over particlar if me ritin isn't
like copy books an me spellin aint alius the kind
you sees in printin. Me edicashun, ater sum
schoolin, bein mostly waitin, I can only rite easy
like as I talks, an spell words as they sounds.
But you'll git the meat, if it aint alius rightly
cooked an hasn't alius the sauce you fancies. So
I hopes you'r that hungry to hear f rum your own
Eube as all me letters will taste good.
P. S. 3. — ^A vally is a sort of lady's maid to a
man what cant take care ov hisself or dont want
to. A English chap I knows sounds it vallett,
but folks as has been in Paree says vally is the
proper lingo, the same as bally for them dancin
girls.
LETTER NO. 2.
Livingston^ Montana, Saturday, July 18.
Me Deab Sophie Ann,
Here we be, mighty fur frum Chicago an I^m
up early this cool sunny momin, afore enybody
is out ov ther births an wile our cars is quiet on
a sidin, to rite about our bang up journey.
Leavin home the day after me last letter on
Wensday at 10 P.M. we stops next momin at a
city they calls Minyaplis, wich has sure a fine
layout an a hansum town hall wid a stavin tower.
There I finds, in talkin to me boss, how that word
"Tower" means as well a sort ov travellin lark
sich as we^s a takin to the Eocky Mountings, so
what I sed about letters wus jttst rubbish. We
starts on frum Minyaplis that Thursday night.
Friday momin, whilst yet in Minysoty, I seed
sich big wheat fields an farmin places as ther is
about nowhere. Then we gits into Dakoty wich
is nigh all open rollin prary but there's stirrin
little places spotted along where folks is alius on
the jump about cattle an crops, to keep frum
bakin black in summer an freezin stiff in winter
times. They nigh bakes us yesterday. In the
aternoon we cums into Montany, a country lookin
15
16 YELLOWSTOlSrE LETTERS
that dreary as we feels like a worm goin over a
asfalt street. Howsumever, we soon runs mostly
nigh the Yellerstun River, goin up the course ov
it the rest ov the day and night. Early this
mornin we gits here an the train sheds our cars
on this sidin afore goin on west. A feller on the
train who wus up in the Park lass year tells me
as how, comin hack, the cars gits here late in the
evenin to lay over til day. Then he says like this.
Sum ov us men had a notion ov seein the town a
bit. Shops an saloons was open late an things
wery lively. When a few ov us starts to find our
cars again a porter says they's up the road a
ways an we tramps along in the dark amung cars
and tracks over a good bit ov Montany afore we
sees em. Eellers stayin longer an drinkin more
had sure a hard time. Two dont show up til
daylight, pretending they got lost an had to sleep
on the tracks, but praps they^d heerd as licker
wus agin the Park rules an wanted one cheerin
night afore goin in.
Livingston is a hummin little place wid a
swagger stun station an nigh a iron bridge cross-
in the Yellerstun River here, wich. same I looks
at more curus now as it seems, a sparklin in the
mornin sun, to ask a feller to take a drink on
the stacks ov things its got to show where we'r
a goin. Up to now I sees me boss quite sparely,
him bein in a swell sleeper an I furder for'd in
the train, but when we stopped now an agen an
I walked sum on platforms, I seed him a smokin
wid gents quite social an a swarmin like wid the
LETTER KO. 2 17
style in wimen folks aboard, special in a sort ov
open pen wid a brass railin at the back end car.
Onct he says to me, "Are you gittin along all
right, Rube?" an I says, "Yes, Count, every-
thing's a smilin." Ater that, sumhow, the gads
is about him more nor ever an a lookin interested
an happy, no matter what he talks or even if he
don't talk at all. In my car I seed no sich game,
even wus I a huntin fur it, wich you knows,
Sophie Ann, as I aint when lovin you so power-
ful. But the females nigh where I sot wus that
busy wid kids or that cold an careless in their
ways, whilst a chawin their gum, as to make me
quiet as a mouse in a mattrass. I might pull in
a smile every minit on State street fur only one
I gits yesterday on this train, but that gal wus
sure too common lookin fur you to be riled about.
As to men, they wus a talkin continual about cat-
tle an siles an reapers an crops an ores an court
trials an wedder, havin mostly manners that or-
dinary as wud make a Chicago waiter gent feel
shameful to be a practicin ov. But sum on em
wus likely chaps, wearin clean shirts an not
sayin so much, an I reckon as them wus hustlers.
A lot I hears talkin wus Sweed an Grerman fel-
lers what's thick in these here new countrys.
There wus nobody on the train I ever seed
afore exoeptin two drummers I waited on now
an again at the Chicago hotel. But them trav-
ellin men alius goes in swell cars, an when I
meets em onct on a platform, they didnt know
me in me vally clos ontil I speaks up an asks em
18 tellowsto:n'e letters
if they wns still havin the best things on the bill
o^ fare. On anoder platform, where we waits
a bit fur a frate train, I had a pleasin talk wid
a young gent what's a docter. He sed he wns in
a party goin to the Yellerstun Park too. There's
a professer an his wife an three young lady
teachers makin it up. They wus goin, he sed, to
the Wylie Permanent Camps, where folks bunks
in tents insted ov hotels, seein as they cud each
save fifteen dollars by it an thought it wud be
amusin. He sed the Park tower costs fifty dol-
lars one way an thirty-five the udder. It wusn't
a matter o' savin wid me, says I, bein as me
friend the Count invited me, so I thought we wus
goin to hotels, but didn't know wich way wus
most pleasin. Then he sed it wus a matter o'
fancy, aside frum the fifteen dollars or more, an
sum folks hadn't Counts handy. Sum dont count
the cost. Sum likes a change ov livin an sum
dont. He heerd say as there wus wery nice peo-
ple goin both ways an as all wus made cumftable.
I'll hope to see him sum time again. 'Now 1 cant
rite no more, as a engin is backin down to take
our cars south to a place named Gardiner, so I
mails this letter, knowin its me lass chance to
reach you so speedy an sayin as how I'm bloomin
in helth an lovin in heart continual.
Your'n, steady an true.
Rube Shuffle.
LETTER NO. 3. ^
Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel,
Sunday, July 19th.
Mb Deab Sophie Ann,
As it's rainin this four-noon here, IVe lots
ov time to rite how we cum here yesterday morn-
in an what we does in the atemoon an a bit about
this place we's at, but the describin o' it all
stumps me sure. I'm like a gent what has a duck
to carve afore company, wid a dull knife, an
when the jints is like Japanese puzzles tied by
wires. If, dear, you only wants slices ov breast
an sum stuffin, I may do it, but dont ask for a
bit ov the leg. Here goes, anyway.
Leavin Livinstun soon ater eight yesterday
momin an comin south, we, by an by, gets into
what's called a "canyon," wich yous livin in Chi-
cago cud never rightly understan from natur
thereabout. Any street nigh the new post-offis
mite praps give some small idee, but, to get onto
it more actual, jus take a lot o' them sky scrapers
an pile em four or five deep, slantin an irreglar
like, along each side o' some twisted boolevard
for nigh a mile, an blast that boolevard all up
an let a big main bust an run down the middle
o' it, leavin a road alongside, an you can put up
19
20 YELLOWSTOI^E LETTEES
what I seed in Yellerstun Canyon, wid Yeller-
stun Eiver into it. The rocks is that ruff an
dreary as it seems only a jail bird lightin out
frum a twenty year term cud have fust run up
to hide anywhere an found em. This here can-
yon, wich they says is a Spanish name for a big
break in mountings, lets out onto what they calls
Pair-o-dice Valley, but I seed no craps bein
played an only a wide green grazin place wid a
mounting named Emigrants' Peek nigh one end
ov it. A mounting, Sophie Ann, is like a stun-
nin big circus tent some thousands ov feet high
but made ov rocks. When there's one ring like,
its called a "Peek," an when there's a lot ov rings
its called a "Chain" and takes in all the outside
shows. A feller by me sed we was above four
thousand foot over sea anyway an this Peek was
six thousand higher yet. Then we goes along
anuder canyon higher sided an more crouded up
nor the fust, bein "Yankee Jim Canyon," an
bavin a lot o' fish in that Yellerstun Kiver rushin
along by the road. Here there's Cinnabar
Mounting wid its "Devil's Slide" wich is two
thousand foot steep atween two natral walls an
wery curus. If ole Nick started on that big to-
boggan wid lether trowsers even, he sure had
none left when he got to the bottom.
Ater more nor fifty mile ov my neck strainin
to see them ragged rock canyons, the train comea
puffin to the end ov its track at a station named
Gardiner, as if it swore off frum eny more
climin.
LETTEK NO. 3 21
The station buildin is hansum sure, bein made
ov big pine logs wid the ends painted green an
long platform sheds simler, but I wasn't havin
much time jus then fur admirin ov it. Every
feller an every female was a tumblin out ov all
the cars an a good many wus a runnin fur some
yaller stages on the far side o' that platform driv-
in for the Yallerstun Park Associashun. The
young folks wus swarmin onto the tops of em
an udders was a crowd in inside. Me boss gits a
top seat all right, an ater I gives his dress suit
cases an my bag to the porter, I finds one left
behind him. Then I sees the greatest play I
knows ov. Whilst them porters is a packin up
the small baggage behind die stages under a lether
cover, some coves is goin around wid linin coats
to rent fur the tower at a dollar a pieca Next
time me luck goes bad you can see me jus here
a rentin them fifty cent dusters, costin a quarter
to wash, an takin in about ten dollars a summer
on each ov em. Before we starts I sees a stage
wid green fly nets onto the bosses an a man says
it drives fur the Wylie Campin Company what
bunks its folks in tents at the night stops in the
Park. It starts a bit later, ater ther folks has
had a early meal at a dinin room. Well, at lass,
them five or six stages has about twenty-five folks
each all aboard, whips cracks an the six boss
teams jumps off lively, passin a few sheds an
wood houses. In a minnit we rolls thru a stun
archway, bein a kind o' show front gate to the
Park. Then we turns south an goes easy like
22 YELLOWSTONE LETTERS
up a good kept road by tlie Gardiner River wid
more ragged hills each side, til, ater risin, they
says, two thousand foot in five miles, we drives
across a open place to this hotel. The flat open
place is sure half as big as Lincon Park, wid
mighty steep mountings all aroun, like a long
shaped puddin dish. Along one side o' this
grassy field is the hotel an stables an coach sheds
an some few houses an shops. At one end is the
sojers' post wid a row ov wery neat white painted
wood houses fur the captings an a long buildin
back an two rows o' tan colored tents a bit aside,
an a flag pole. Way at the udder end, an reachin
nigh across, we sees a high bank all whitish like
an wery curus lookin. Across from us is a steep-
ish hill wid a old house an some cannon onto it.
The hotel isnt rightly Mammoth, that meanin
sum springs I'm a goin to tell about; but its a
fine appearin long wood buildin four or five
stories high wid a long, fine piazzy. Goin in,
amongst the folks a lookin at us come up, we
finds a big ofiis hall all fixed up wid big flags
an havin counters where they sell tickets an
papers an f otos an cigars an sich. All the walls
is only rough sand plastered now, but I hears
they calkerlate on a finer hotel yet some day.
There bein no elewator, I takes me boss' suit
cases up stairs ater him to a big room all nice
furnished an puts out his things handy, havin
me fust juties in unpackin learned easy. Ater
his silver backed lay out is fixed as he tells me, I
finds me room nigher the roof an lines up me
LETTER NO. 3 23
brush an comb an tooth brush an shavin outfit
simlar, tho lackin a lot o' swagger truck sich as
his'n. But I likes things genteel an does as I
can. When I goes down an hunts a bit about
the halls an piazzy an billard room, I finds the
Count agin. He ses he's been a gittin some cold
tea, licker bein agin the Park rules ; but, ater his
high roUin in Chicago, I never knowd any gent
turn to local option so smilin an peacable. He's
sure a sample in lovin the spirit ov the law. I
was that imitation as I tried to find some cold
tea too, but I didnt know how that day.
Soon the dinin room doors opens an the Count
goes in to one o'clock dinner, wich is country
style here, wid a splurgin widder an her two
dauters what was in hia car an in the tally-ho a
comin up. That widder sports a dozen dimenta
a travellin, like wimen as hasn't had em wery
long, an talks that continual as I never knowd
how she got enuf to eat to get so fat. By an by
I'm let in to a fur table an sees as there's coon
waiters. When my nigger fetched in a stack
o' dishes I didn't order an forgot what I did an
lay'd for a quarter wid a saucer o' toothpicks, I
some how seed my former callin wery different.
So I tries a bluff as onct seemed wery contemp-
tuous, an I says, "Sam, I pays a high hotel bill
coverin everything. You gets a salary fur your
waitin, an you dont half know how to wait. You
brings a lot of dishes, scarce eny of what I
wanted, an then wants a quarter or a half at each
feed. Its a imposishun." Then I walks away
24 YELLOWSTO]v[E LETTERS
as severe as some gents what's giv me this to
chew. Sam didn't say nothing at all, but that
evenin at supper him an all them other coons was
that deff an near sighted as I had to get the head
waiter to show em I wus in the dinin room, an
then, ater half a hour more, the grub I got was
cold leavins. When I thinks that I wus some-
times practicin the shameful ways ov them nig-
gers, I feels mighty mean an mortified. How-
somever, bein hungry this momin an onable, ater
that bluff, to say as I'd bin sort ov in the same
lodge, I jus shells out a half dollar, swell as a
drummer, an coons wus around my table as thick
as blue bottle flies.
But I'm servin my fish afore the soup, so I'll
go back to yesterday aternoon. About a hour
ater lunch, a lot uvus tower ist folks is rounded up
to go see that big white bank I've spoke of what
looked as it was covered wid snow that wasn't a
meltin in the hot sun, an had w^ater falls as
wasn't a fallin any. Them Wylie stages had
gone by a bit sooner, their people seein that curus
bank where the hot springs is an then drivin on
six miles to Willow Camp, wich is the first place
they sleeps at.
Sum of our folks goes in wagins, but the
Count hears as its seed better afoot, so we takes
it cheapest. K'ow I knows we ought to ha' rid up
an footed back. Well, we tracks along by the
stores, what sells Injun notions an specimens an
amost everything, an gits to the fur end nigh the
high bank where the sile is all like mixed white
Viewing the Cascades
FACING PAOC 24
LETTER NO. 3 35
clay an lime. Standin front is whaf s named the
Liberty Cap. Its a kind o* rough piller forty
foot high, lookin as it was made ov cartloads o'
lightish soap. Sum calls it a formashun from
stuff overflowin gradual like at the top. Passin
on, we begins climbin that white clay hill an folks
as has black specktacles puts em on to stop
blinkin. Soon we stops mighty astonished, see-
in rows an rows ov scolloped cascades seemin like
tons o^ taller what had melted over a lot o' high
curvin steps wid pools ov bluin water on the
steps an the borders an some ov the cascades col-
ored red an yeller, like juice an fat ov a fine
roast o' beef or the sides of a light roasted turkey.