manner, till, on the rising of the sun, the Indians
gave up the contest, and retired, carrying off all
their killed and wounded. The whole of the de-
fenders of the kitchen -fort were wounded, the
UPPER CALIFORNIA 125
corporal concealing his injuries until the Indians
had retired, in order to avoid discouraging his
companions."
I have given the description of this contest at
full length, and in the language of the Franciscan
historian, in order to show that a battle, when the
forces on one side only consisted of three soldiers,
commanded by a corporal, may be made nearly as
much of on paper as when mighty armies meet.
The account of the defense of the kitchen -fort is
given with as much gravity and circumstantiality
as if the narrative were of one of Napoleon's vic-
tories ; and it must be confessed that the issue was
as important to the individuals engaged in this
Lilliputian combat as was the result of Austerlitz or
Lodi to their victor. It is also worthy of record
as being the most serious attempt to obstruct the
Spanish missionaries in their spiritual conquest of
California ; and it may in some degree account
for the apparently miraculous conquests of the
Spaniards in Mexico and Peru, in former times, by
proving how superior the European, with his musket
and his gunpowder, is to the feeble and unskillful
Indian with his bow and arrow.
On hearing of the misfortune which befell San
Diego, the father- president, who was then at Monte-
rey, resolved to proceed to that mission, but was
not able to accomplish his design till the month of
126 UPPER CALIFORNIA
June. He then proceeded by sea, in the Princesa,
and, with the assistance of the seamen of this vessel,
the soldiers, and others, he repaired the damages
done by the Indians, and again put matters on the
same footing as before the attack. Subsequently
he set about forming another mission, called San
Juan Capistrano. On his way to this place he was
about to be attacked by the Indians, but was saved
by one of the converts, who had the presence of
mind to call out, in the Indian dialect, that many
soldiers were close behind, on which the assailants
gave up their intention, and finally joined the
Spaniards on their journey, receiving beads and
becoming friends.
^ After founding this mission, the president pro-
ceeded to Monterey, and prepared to establish that
of San Francisco, on the borders of the bay of that
name, which had long been projected. He left
Monterey on the seventeenth day of June, 1776,
with some soldiers and several families of people,
who had come overland from Sonora to establish
themselves in the country, carrying with them black
cattle, mules, and necessaries for the new mission.
One of the packet-boats proceeded at the same
time for the harbor of San Francisco, with the
rest of the necessaries.
On the twenty -seventh of June the expedition
arrived near the situation where 'they intended to
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UPPER CALIFORNIA 127
plant the mission, on the banks of the lake near
one of the arms of the Bay of San Francisco.
While they there waited the arrival of the vessel to
determine the exact spot for its foundation, many
of the natives came to them with demonstrations of
peace, and expressed pleasure at their arrival. Find-
ing that the packet-boat did not make its appearance,
they commenced cutting timber for their houses,
and pitched upon the most eligible situation
for the presidio, near the place where they had
halted. Indeed, the vessel did not arrive till the
eighteenth of August, having been detained by
contrary winds, which drove her back as far as to
the latitude of thirty- three degrees.
They took solemn possession of this presidio on
the seventeenth day of September, ' ' this day being
(says Father Paloii) the festival of the impression
of the sores of San Francisco, the patron of the
port. After blessing, adoring, and planting the holy
cross, the first mass was chanted, and the cere-
mony concluded by a Te Deum, the act of possession
in the name of our sovereign being accompanied
with many discharges of artillery and musketry
by sea and land."
They afterwards proceeded to survey the harbor
both by land and by a launch, and ascertained
that there was no other outlet to the ocean except
by the passage through which they had entered.
128 UPPER CALIFORNIA
Previous to the vessel returning to San Bias, they
performed the ceremony of taking possession of
the mission, in the same manner as they had before
done of the presidio, and this they did on the day
[on] [October.]
of San Francisco, in the ninth of November.
It appears that about this time Father Palou
joined the missionaries in Upper California, as he
now begins to speak in the first person ; conse-
quently his authority is even more valuable than
before. We resume our narrative in his words.
"None of the natives attended these ceremonies,
as in the middle of August the whole of those who
inhabited this place disappeared, going in their rush
balsas, some to uninhabited islands in the bay,
others to the other side of the strait. This move-
ment was occasioned by their being surprised by a
tribe or nation called the Salsona, their great ene-
mies, who on this occasion killed a great number
of them, and set fire to their huts. This misfor-
tune we were unable to prevent, as the surprise
and destruction took place without our knowledge,
and when we endeavored to detain the flying Indi-
ans, they paid no attention to us. This flight of
the Indians was the cause of our being a long time
without making any converts, as we did not see
any of them again till the end of March of the
following year. They then began to get over the
fear of their enemies, and once more reposed some
UPPER CALIFORNIA 129
confidence in us. The first baptism performed in
this mission was on St. John's Day of this year,
1776.
I shall not further follow the progress of the
President Junipero Serra and his spiritual associates
in the formation of the other missions ; suffice it
[1784]
to say, that, before his death in 1782, there were
established, in addition to those already mentioned,
Santa Clara, Santa Barbara, and San Buenaventura,
which, together with San Diego, Monterey, San
Antonio, San Gabriel, and San Francisco, made,
in the whole, eight missions, all of which he
occasionally visited.
But he had at last to yield up his account, and to
withdraw from the field in which he had so long
and so laboriously toiled, in the hope, however, of
joining in another world his prototype and master,
San Francisco, whom he had so assiduously made
the object of his veneration and model for his
labors in this.
"We piously believed (says Father Paloii) that
he had slept in the Lord a little before two, in the
afternoon, on the day of San Agustin, in the year
[1784]
1782, and that he would go and receive in heaven
the reward of all his apostolical labors. He fin-
ished his laborious life at the age of seventy years,
nine months, and twenty-one days. He had passed
fifty-three years, eleven months, and thirteen days
9 K
130 UPPER CALIFORNIA
in holy orders ; and of this time, thirty- five years,
four months, and thirteen days in the office of
apostolic missionary, in which time he performed
the glorious actions which we have seen, having
lived in continual activity, occupied in virtuous and
holy exercises and in singular prowesses, all directed
to the greater glory of God and the salvation of
souls."
CHAPTER II
RECENT HISTORY OF UPPER CALIFORNIA. — PRESENT
POLITICAL CONDITION AND PROSPECTS
The same plan of colonization and management,
which has been described in the preceding chapter,
continued to be carried on with little or no varia-
tion by Father Serra's successors until the whole
of the littoral territories of California, with all their
inhabitants, came under the temporal and spiritual
dominion of the missionaries. A description of the
settlement and progress of the individual missions,
if their history could be obtained, would possess lit-
tle interest. In a subsequent chapter I shall give
an account of the actual condition of the whole,
and will now conclude this by a brief notice of the
civil history of the country up to the present time. .
During the long period that had elapsed since the
first foundation of the missions, many large dona-
tions had been bestowed, and numerous estates in
land and houses left for the benefit of the missions,
which were consolidated into a fund called the
131 K 2
132 UPPER CALIFORNIA
California Pious Fund. This fund was managed
by the convent of San Fernando, and other trustees
in Mexico, and the proceeds regularly remitted
annually to California, as also the salaries assigned
to the missionaries by the king. The government
likewise sent soldiers to protect them from the attacks
of the wild Indians and foreign enemies.
Under this state of things, the missions greatly
prospered. They went on augmenting their, posses-
sions, increasing their stock of domestic animals and
the number of converted Indians, until they had
absorbed nearly the whole of the valuable lands,
to the almost total exclusion of free white settlers.
No one could possess land, except by a grant from
the missionaries, who, on all occasions, were very
reserved in conceding such grants, and few colonists
were to be found, except the officers of the troops,
the soldiers, and their followers. Great care was
taken that the soldiers should not leave too many
descendants, to the supposed prejudice of the mis-
sionary plan ; and as no officer or soldier in His
Catholic Majesty's service can marry without his
special license, it could easily be managed that as
many marriages were permitted as were desired, and
no more. This fully accounts for the very scanty
number of free colonists that exists in California.
In Upper as in Lower California, the missionary
establishments were acknowledged to be the great
UPPER CALIFORNIA 133
objects for which the country was settled and main-
tained ; and they existed in an almost complete
state of independence of the Mexican government.
Still, the country belonged to Spain, and all the
ordinary government establishments were kept up
in it, although to a much smaller extent than in
the other provinces of the viceroyalty of New Spain.
The general - commandant of all the troops in the
country was also governor of all places and per-
sons not under the immediate authority of the
fathers. He resided at Monterey, and had a salary
of four thousand dollars. He could not interfere
with the affairs of the missions, but was obliged to
grant them assistance when they claimed it.
The ancient system remained in full force until
the period of the revolution in Mexico and the
separation of all the Americas from Spain. At that
time, Upper California was formed into what is called
a territory, and Lower California into another, on the
ground of their respective populations not amounting
to the number entitling them to be federative states,
these being established on the basis of population.
The territories are not entitled to have gover-
nors or legislatures, but are allowed to send one
member to the general congress. This member is
entitled to sit and take a part in discussions, but
has no vote. The territories are, from their being
deprived of governors or legislatures, subject to the
134 UPPER CALIFORNIA
immediate government and legislation of the general
government in Mexico. This reduced Upper Cali-
fornia to be directed by an agent of the government,
who resided there, under the denomination of com-
mandant-general. This state of things California
has not, as yet, had much cause to lament; for, until
wiser legislation is adopted, and greater harmony
exists between the general government and the
different state legislatures, it is no great misfortune
to be deprived of the labors of a provincial popular
assembly.
The two Californias send each a member to the
general congress, elected by popular suffrage. The
first deputy elected for Upper California was a cap-
tain of the Californian troops, and a Spaniard by
birth ; but on his arrival at San Bias he found a law
had been passed excluding natives of Spain from
congress, and he was obliged to return. A lieutenant
was then elected to succeed him, who proceeded to
the city of Mexico, where he died. A sergeant of
the same corps was next elected, who served out his
term of two years in the Mexican congress, and then
returned to his native country. This retrogression
in the rank of the honorable members is rather
singular.
When an enlightened man shall govern this dis-
tant and thinly peopled country, it must be much
better regulated than if it were domineered over and
UPPER CALIFORNIA 135
plundered by a set of ill-informed and rapacious
men united into a democratic council, and daily
manufacturing absurd laws and regulations, which,
after a very short time, are laid aside for some fresh
whim, as a child throws away its plaything at the
sight of a new one. It is true that even in the ter-
ritories there is some semblance of a local govern-
ment, for they have what is called a deputation,
which is a sort of privy council, more for the
purpose of advising with the commandant than of
originating anything of themselves. Their powers
are consequently very limited, and their reunion
takes place but very seldom.
When visited in 1826 and 1827 by Captain Beechey,
the missions had begun to feel the effect of the
recent changes in the government of Mexico. At
this time there had arrived orders to liberate all
the Indians "who had good characters, and were
supposed able to maintain themselves, from having
been taught the art of agriculture or some trade."
They were directed to have portions of land given
to them for their maintenance, and the district to be
divided into parishes, with curates provided for each.
At the same time, the missionaries' salaries, formerly
paid by government, (400 dollars per annum,) were
suspended, the country being expected to support
its own establishment. Considering the utterly
helpless and enslaved state of the Indians, which
136 UPPER CALIFORNIA
we shall describe more fully by and by, it is not to
be supposed that a system of legislation of this sort,
however philanthropic in appearance, could really
answer the intended object. Accordingly, when
Captain Beechey returned in the following year
(November, 1827) he found that the new project
had failed, and matters were in some degree restored
to their former state. In consequence of the strong
remonstrances of the fathers, the governor had
modified the orders received from Mexico, and
agreed to make the experiment on a small scale.
"After a few months' trial, (says Captain Beechey,)
he found that these people, who had always been
accustomed to the care and discipline of school-boys,
finding themselves their own masters, indulged freely
in all those excesses which it had been the endeavor
of their tutors to repress, and that many, having
gambled away their clothes, implements, and even
their land, were compelled to beg or to plunder, in
order to support life. They at length became so
obnoxious to the peaceable inhabitants, that the
padres were requested to take some of them back
to the missions, while others, who had been guilty
of misdemeanors, were loaded with shackles and put
to hard work, and when we arrived were employed
in transporting enormous stones to the beach to
improve the landing-place."* This unfortunate
* Voyage to the Pacific, vol. II, p. "320.
UPPER CALIFORNIA 137
result was taken advantage of by the fathers, and
their remonstrances procured not only the restora-
tion of their salaries, but a promise of payment
of the arrears, they consenting to be submissive to
the new government.
Since this time, various contradictory laws have
been passed respecting this country, and projects
for its government and improvement, equally con-
tradictory, set on foot; yet it is true that no change
of government or of system has been able materially
to alter the original Franciscan dispensation, which
may still be said to exist in all its primitive purity.
The great source of the property of the missions is,
however, now, I believe, effectually dried up, viz.,
their supplies from Mexico ; for although the
natives of Spain and their descendants inhabiting
Mexico retained their religious zeal for conquering
infidels and converting heathens longer and in
greater force than the other European Christians,
yet the American revolutions swept this, together
with the Inquisition, and many other equally ven-
erable customs, entirely away, and the modern repub-
licans want money too much at home to think of
sending any to so remote a place as California, so
that the Pious Fund of California, like most other
funds that could be made available, has been put
to less pious uses. But the value of the estates of
the missions has so much increased, as well from
138 UPPER CALIFORNIA
the multiplication of the domestic animals and aug-
mented agricultural produce of the soil as from the
additional demand and consequent increase of price
which the opening of the trade to strangers has
caused, that the missionaries are not only able to
maintain themselves, but have to spare ; and in
place of receiving supplies from Mexico, are even
obliged to maintain the government troops. And
although it has been a general opinion in Mexico,
since the revolution, that the Californian system
should be altered, yet it would appear that the
government, under the presidency of Bustamante,
or rather the ministry of Alaman, thought otherwise,
for in 1833 they sent a reinforcement of eleven Fran-
ciscan friars, with a new prefect of the same order
at their head. These friars were some time de-
tained at Tepic, a town near San Bias, waiting for a
vessel, where I had an opportunity of seeing them.
They were fresh from a convent of Zacatecas, where
the rules are very strict. They all wore a habit of
the coarsest gray woolen cloth, their crowns shaven,
and sandals on their feet. They were totally igno-
rant of the world, and of everything respecting the
country which they were going to govern. They
brought to one's mind, in the most lively manner,
the days of the pilgrimages of the Middle Ages, and
if the anomalous nature of their destination could
have been kept out of view, they would have formed
UPPER CALIFORNIA 139
an interesting group. As it was, it was impossible
not to feel respect for their character, and a degree
of veneration, mixed with pity, on thinking on their
destiny, and observing their very pious, humble, and
meek demeanor. It will not be here out of place to
give, in a few words, the future history of these poor
friars, as it will illustrate at once their character and
the still very unsettled state of these countries. It
will also, doubtless, remind the reader of the old days
of Fathers Salvatierra and Junipero Serra.
General Figueroa, being appointed military gov-
ernor or commandant -general of Upper California,
chartered a vessel in Acapulco to take himself, with
some officers and soldiers, to Monterey, and intended
to call at San Bias for eleven missionaries who were
to join him there. Instead, however, of proceeding
directly to San Bias, he thought it would be better
to touch at San Lucas, in Lower California, dis-
embark there with the soldiers, and send the ship
to San Bias for the friars, and then to proceed to
Mazatlan for some military stores. This was accord-
ingly done ; and while the vessel was in the Bay
of Mazatlan, and after having the gunpowder and
most of the other stores on board, she was struck
with lightning, which passed along the mizzenmast
into the hold, and set fire to some materials very
near the powder. The fire was fortunately extin-
guished before any bad consequence ensued. The
140 UPPER CALIFORNIA
lightning passed close to the cabin of the friars,
who were all below, and it was remarked with what
wonderful calmness they betook themselves to their
only remedy, — their sacred offices and rosaries. It
was, indeed, only by force that the officers and sea-
men could remove them from off the hatch to get
down the magazine, which was immediately below
them, and they were thus only saved by the prompt
exertions of the seamen from being blown to atoms.
This danger being over, and the vessel again put to
rights, she proceeded to Cape San Lucas to take on
board the General and troops ; and as the friars
were all sick, never having before even seen salt
water, they went on shore the moment the ship
came to anchor. The General then gave orders for
embarkation next morning, and the first division of
soldiers proceeded to the beach with ammunition,
arm-chests, &c. When the whole was ready for
putting off in the launch, a sergeant informed his
officers that he and his comrades had determined
not to proceed to Upper California, declared for the
party of General Santa Anna, then in revolution
against the government, and avowed their intention
of proceeding to San Bias to join their brother patri-
ots engaged in the same cause. At the same time
arming themselves, they proceeded to fire upon the
quarters of the General, with whom were the unfor-
tunate friars. In this extremity, the General and
UPPER CALIFORNIA 141
his companions, who were unarmed, had to fly, and
the mutineers took possession of the ship, and
obliged the captain to carry them to San Bias, taking
along with them the military chest, in which were
sixteen thousand dollars, as well as the private prop-
erty of the general and his officers. The sergeant,
however, generously, or rather piously, sent on
shore, before his departure, three thousand dollars
for the friars, thus verifying what is far from un-
common, that a very considerable degree of religious
feeling may be manifested by those who are guilty
of the most atrocious crimes. The poor friars
were now left in an almost desert country ; and
having experienced so unpromising an onset in
their sea voyage, resolved not to trust themselves
again to that element, which seemed to them so
unpropitious, and which had also been so fatal to
their predecessors, the first settlers of California.
They at first determined to follow the route by land
which the Father Junipero had done so many years
before them ; but, reflecting upon the difficulties
which presented themselves, and receiving the coun-
sel, or perhaps commands, of the general, they were
at length prevailed on to proceed to La Paz, and
there wait further orders from Mexico.
In the mean time the vessel proceeded on her
voyage to San Bias, during which the sergeant broke
open the military chest, and took what money
142 UPPER CALIFORNIA
he thought necessary, to divide amongst his follow-
ers and the sailors ; he also assigned a sum for the
captain and mates, which, as they did not think it
prudent to offend him, they received, but returned
on their arrival at San Bias. On the arrival of
the vessel at this port, which had also declared for
Santa Anna, the sergeant and his soldiers were re-
ceived by their compatriots with open arms, and
the remainder of the money, which he chose to
deliver up to the authorities, was thankfully re-
ceived, leaving this worthy character to appropriate
to himself what he pleased. The ship, after repair-
ing her damages, getting some fresh stores, and
spending a long time on the coast, at last proceeded
to La Paz, where the friars once more embarked,
and finally arrived at their destination.
Notwithstanding this indication of following up
the old system, a law was soon after passed by the
general congress of Mexico for entirely removing
the missionaries, dividing the lands and cattle
amongst the Indians and settlers, and appropriating
their funds in Mexico to the use of the state. The
democratic party, then in power, soon after the
passing of the law, named commissioners, amongst
their own friends, to carry it into execution, and
empowered them to engage emigrants in Mexico to
accompany them, and to whom the pay of half a
dollar a day was assigned till their arrival in Cali-
UPPER CALIFORNIA 143
fornia, with a free passage, and provisions during
their voyage. Nearly three hundred people engaged
on those terms, consisting of men, women, and chil-
dren. They were of every class of persons except