water-totaller, so I did not taste all of them when I visited the place
later on; but undoubtedly alum, iodine, and iron do severally impregnate
the various springs.
I remembered reading long ago Dr Daubeny's work on "Volcanoes," in which
he says that Hungary is one of the most remarkable countries in Europe
for the scale on which volcanic operation has taken place. There are, it
is stated, seven well-marked mountain groups of volcanic rocks, and two
of these are in Transylvania. The most interesting in many respects is
the chain of hills separating Szeklerland from Transylvania Proper. It
is within this district that most of the mineral springs are found.
These volcanic rocks are of undoubted Tertiary origin, say the
geologists. The whole range is for the most part composed of various
kinds of trachytic conglomerate. "From the midst of these vast tufaceous
deposits, the tops of the hills, composed of trachyte, a rock which
forms all the loftiest eminences, here and there emerge.... The trachyte
is ordinarily reddish, greyish, or blackish; it mostly contains mica. In
the southern parts, as near Csik Szereda, the trachyte encloses large
masses, sometimes forming even small hillocks, of that variety of which
millstones are made, having quartz crystals disseminated through it, and
in general indurated by silicious matter in so fine a state of division
that the parts are nearly invisible. The latter substance seems to be
the result of a kind of sublimation which took place at the moment of
the formation of the trachyte.... Distinct craters are only seen at the
southern extremity of the chain. One of the finest observed by Dr Boné
was to the south of Tusnad. It was of great size and well characterised,
surrounded by pretty steep and lofty hills composed of trachyte. The
bottom of the hollow was full of water. The ground near has a very
strong sulphureous odour. A mile to the SSE. direction from this point
there are on the tableland two large and distinct _maars_ like those of
the Eifel - that is to say, old craters, which have been lakes, and are
now covered with a thick coat of marsh plants. The cattle dare not graze
upon them for fear of sinking in. Some miles farther in the same
direction is the well-known hill of Budoshegy (or hill of bad smell), a
trachytic mountain, near the summit of which is a distinct rent,
exhaling very hot sulphureous vapours.... The craters here described
have thrown out a vast quantity of pumice, which now forms a deposit of
greater or less thickness along the Aluta and the Marosch from Tusnad to
Toplitza. Impressions of plants and some silicious wood are likewise to
be found in it."[18]
Since Dr Daubeny's time there have been many observers over the same
ground, the most distinguished being the Hungarian geologist Szabó,
professor at the University of Buda-Pest. A countryman of our own has
also taken up the subject of the ancient volcanoes of Hungary, and has
recently published a paper on the subject. Professor Judd has confined
his remarks principally to the Schemnitz district in the north of
Hungary. But the following passage refers to the general character of
the formation. Professor Judd says:[19] "The most interesting fact with
regard to the constitution of these Hungarian lavas, which in the
central parts of their masses are often found to assume a very coarsely
crystalline and almost granitic character, while their outer portions
present a strikingly scoriaceous or slaggy appearance, remains to be
noticed. It is, that though the predominant felspar in them is always of
the basic type, yet they not unfrequently contain _free quartz_,
sometimes in very large proportion. This free quartz is in some cases
found to constitute large irregular crystalline grains in the mass, just
like those of the ordinary orthoclase quartz-trachytes; but at other
times its presence can only be detected by the microscope in thin
sections. These quartziferous andesites were by Stache, who first
clearly pointed out their true character, styled 'Dacites,' from the
circumstance of their prevalence in Transylvania (the ancient Dacia)."
In concluding this highly instructive and interesting memoir of the
volcanic rocks of Hungary, Professor Judd says: "The mineral veins of
Hungary and Transylvania, with their rich deposits of gold and silver,
cannot be of older date than the Miocene, while some of them are
certainly more recent than the Pliocene. Hence these deposits of ore
must all have been formed at a later period than the clays and sands on
which London stands; while in some cases they appear to be of even
younger date than the gravelly beds of our crags!"
For any one who desires to geologise in Hungary and Transylvania there
is abundant assistance to be obtained in the maps which have been issued
by the Imperial Geological Institute of Vienna, under the successive
direction of Haidinger and Von Hauer. "These are geologically-coloured
copies of the whole of the 165 sheets of the military map of the empire;
and these have been accompanied by most valuable memoirs on the
different districts, published in the well-known 'Jahrbuch' of the
Institute. Franz von Hauer has further completed a reduction of these
large-scale maps to a general map consisting of twelve sheets, with a
memoir descriptive of each, and has finally in his most valuable and
useful work, 'Die Geologie und ihre Anwendung auf die Kenntniss der
Bodenbeschaffenheit der Osterrungar. Monarchie,' which is accompanied by
a single-sheet map of the whole country, summarised in a most able
manner the entire mass of information hitherto obtained concerning the
geology of the empire."
I have given this passage from Mr Judd's paper because there exists a
good deal of misapprehension amongst English travellers as to what has
really been done with regard to the geological survey of Austro-Hungary.
[Footnote 18: A Description of Active and Extinct Volcanoes, by C.
Daubeny, p. 133. 1848.]
[Footnote 19: 'On the Ancient Volcano of the District of Schemnitz,
Hungary,' Quarterly Journal, Geo. Soc., August 1876.]
CHAPTER XXI.
A ride through Szeklerland - Warnings about robbers - Büksad - A look
at the sulphur deposits on Mount Büdos - A lonely lake - An
invitation to Tusnad.
Feeling curious not only about the geology of the Szeklerland, but
interested also in the inhabitants, I resolved to pursue my journey by
going through what is called the Csik. I made all my arrangements to
start, but wet weather set in, and I remained against my inclination at
Kronstadt, for I was impatient now to be moving onwards.
When I was in Hungary Proper they told me that travelling in
Transylvania was very dangerous, and that it was a mad notion to think
of going about there alone. Now that I was in Transylvania, I was amused
at finding myself most seriously warned against the risk of riding alone
through the Szeklerland. Every one told some fresh story of the
insecurity of the roads. Curiously enough, foreigners get off better
than the natives themselves; people of indifferent honesty have been
known to say, "One would not rob a stranger." It happened to me that
one day when riding along - in this very Szeklerland of ill-repute - I
dropped my Scotch plaid, and did not discover my loss till I arrived at
the next village, where I was going to sleep. I was much vexed, not
thinking for a moment that I should ever see my useful plaid again.
However, before the evening was over, a peasant brought it into the inn,
saying he had found it on the road, and it must belong to the Englishman
who was travelling about the country. The finder would not accept any
reward!
There was a fair in the town the day I left Kronstadt. The field where
it is held is right opposite Hotel "No. 1," and the whole place was
crowded with country-folks in quaint costumes - spruce, gaily-dressed
people mixed up with Wallack cattle-drivers and other picturesque
rascals, such as gipsies and Jews, and here and there a Turk, and, more
ragged than all, a sprinkling of refugee Bulgarians. Though it was a
scene of strange incongruities - a very jumble of races - yet it was by no
means a crowd of roughs; on the contrary, the well-dressed, well-to-do
element prevailed. The thrifty Saxon was very much there, intent on
making a good bargain; the neatly-dressed Szekler walked about holding
his head on his shoulders with an air of resolute self-respect - they
are unmistakable, are these proud rustics. Many a fair-haired Saxon
maiden too tripped along, eyeing askance the peculiar "get-up" of the
Englishman as he was about to mount his noble steed and ride forth into
the wilds. If I was amused by the crowd, I believe the crowd was greatly
amused at my proceedings. Mine own familiar friend, I verily believe,
would have passed me by on the other side, I cut so queer a figure. As
usual on these occasions, I had sent forward my portmanteau, this time
to Maros Vásárhely; but everything else I possessed I carried round
about me and my horse somehow, and I am not a man "who wants but little
here below."
Besides my _toilette de voyage_, I had my cooking apparatus, a small jar
of Liebig's meat, and some compressed tea, and other little odds and
ends of comforts. I had also provided myself with some bacon and
_slivovitz_ for barter, a couple of bottles of the spirit being turned
into a big flask slung alongside of my lesser flask for wine. Nor was
this all, for having duly secured my saddle-bags, I had the plaid and
mackintosh rolled up neatly and strapped in front of the saddle; then my
gun, field-glass, and roll of three maps were slung across my shoulders.
_Nota bene_ my pockets were full to repletion. In my leathern belt was
stuck a revolver, handy, and a bowie-knife not far off.
But the portrait of this Englishman as he appeared to the Kronstadt
people on that day is not yet complete. His legs were encased in Hessian
boots; his shooting-jacket was somewhat the worse for wear; and his hat,
which had been eminently respectable at first starting, had acquired a
sort of brigandish air; and to add to the drollery of his general
appearance, the excellent little Servian horse he rode was not high
enough for a man of his inches.
With my weapons of offence and defence I must have appeared a "caution"
to robbers, and it seems that the business of the fair was suspended to
witness my departure. I was profoundly unconscious at the time of the
public interest taken in my humble self, but later I heard a very
humorous account of the whole proceeding from some relatives who visited
Kronstadt about three weeks afterwards. I believe I am held in
remembrance in the town as a typical Englishman!
Well, to take up the thread of my narrative - like Don Quixote, "I
travelled _all_ that day." If any reader can remember Gustave Doré's
illustration of the good knight on that occasion, he will have some idea
of how the sky looked on this very ride of mine. As evening approached,
the settled grey clouds, which had hung overhead like a pall all the
afternoon, were driven about by a rough wind, which went on rising
steadily. The grim phantom-haunted clouds came closer and closer round
about me as darkness grew apace, and now and then the gust brought with
it a vicious "spate" of rain. With no immediate prospect of shelter, my
position became less and less lively. I had not bargained for a night on
the highroad, or lodgings in a dry ditch or under a tree. Indeed those
luxuries were not at hand; for trees there were none bordering the road,
or in the open fields which stretched away on either side; and as for a
_dry_ ditch, I heard the streams gurgling along the watercourses, which
were full to overflowing, as well they might be, seeing that it had
rained for three days.
My object was to reach the village of Büksad, but where was Büksad now
in reference to myself? I had no idea it was such a devil of a way off
when I started. I had foolishly omitted to consult the map for myself,
and had just relied on what I was told, though I might have remembered
how loosely country-people all the world over speak of time and space.
When at length the darkness had become perplexing - _entre chien et
loup_, as the saying is - I met a peasant with a fierce-looking
sheep-dog by his side. The brute barked savagely round me as if he meant
mischief, and I soon told the peasant if he did not call off his dog
directly I would shoot him. He called his dog back, which proved he
understood German, so I then asked if I was anywhere near Büksad. To my
dismay he informed me that it was a long way off; how long he would not
say, for without further parley he strode on, and he and his dog were
soon lost to view in the thick misty darkness.
Not a furlong farther, I came suddenly upon a house by the roadside, and
a man coming out of the door with a light at the same moment enabled me
to see "Vendéglo" on a small signboard. Good-luck: here, then, was an
inn, where at least shelter was possible; and shelter was much to be
desired, seeing that the rain was now a steady downpour. On making
inquiries, I found that I was already in Büksad. The peasant had played
off a joke at my expense, or perhaps dealt me a Roland for an Oliver,
for threatening to shoot his dog. A _paprika handl_ was soon prepared
for me. In all parts of the country where travellers are possible, the
invariable reply to a demand for something to eat is the query, "Would
the gentleman like _paprika handl_?" and he had better like it, for his
chances are small of getting anything else. While I was seeing after my
horse, the woman of the inn caught a miserable chicken, which I am sure
could have had nothing to regret in this life; and in a marvellously
short time the bird was stewed in red pepper, and called _paprika
handl_.
I was aware that Count M - - owned a good deal of property in the
neighbourhood of Büksad, and as I had a letter of introduction to his
bailiff, I set off the next morning to find him. My object in coming to
this particular part of the country was principally to explore that
curious place Mount Büdos, mentioned by Dr Daubeny and others. I wanted
to see for myself what amount of sulphur deposits were really to be
found there. Count M - - 's bailiff was very ready to be obliging, and he
provided me with a guide, and further provided the guide with a horse,
so that I had no difficulty in arranging an expedition to the mount of
evil smell.
Having arranged the commissariat as usual, I started one fine morning
with my guide. We rode for about two hours through a forest of majestic
beech-trees, and then came almost suddenly, without any preparation,
upon a beautiful mountain lake, called St Anna's Lake. It lies in a
hollow; the hills around, forming cup-like sides, are clothed with
thick woods down to its very edge. Looking down from above, I saw the
green reflection of the foliage penetrating the pellucid water till it
met the other heaven reflected below. The effect was very singular, and
gave one the idea of a lovely bit of world and sky turned upside down;
it produced, moreover, a sort of fascination, as if one must dive down
into its luring depths. No human sight or sound disturbed the weird
beauty of this lonely spot. I longed at last to break the oppressive
silence, and I fired off my revolver. This brought down a perfect volley
of echoes, and at the same time, from the highest crags, out flew some
half-dozen vultures; they wheeled round for a few moments, then
disappeared behind the nearest crest of wood.
My guide soon set about making a fire; and while dinner was being
cooked, I bethought me I would have a bath. I took a header from a
projecting rock, but I very soon made the best of my way out of the
water again. It was icy cold; I hardly ever recollect feeling any water
so cold - I suppose because the lake is so much in shadow. After the meal
we pushed on to Büdos, another two hours of riding; this time through a
forest so dense that we could scarcely make our way. At last we reached
a path, and this brought us before long to a roughly-constructed
log-hut. This, I was told, was the "summer hotel." Further on there
were a few more log-huts, the "dependence" of the hotel itself. The
bathing season was over, so hosts and guests had alike departed. This
must be "roughing it" with a vengeance, I should say; but my guide told
me that very "high-born" people came here to be cured.
It is a favourite place, too, for some who desire the last cure of all
for life's ills; a single breath of the gaseous exhalations is death.
One cleft in the hill is called the "Murderer;" so fatal are the fumes
that even birds flying over it are often known to drop dead! The
elevation of Mount Büdos is only 3800 feet; there are several caves
immediately below the highest point. The principal cave is ten feet high
and forty feet long, the interior being lower than the opening. A
mixture of gases is exhaled, which, being heavier than the atmosphere,
fills it up to the level of the entrance; and when the sun is shining
into the cave, one can see the gaseous fumes swaying to and fro, owing
to the difference of refraction.
I experienced a sensation which has often been noticed here before. On
entering the cave, and standing for some minutes immersed in the gas,
but with my head above it, I had the feeling of warmth pervading the
lower limbs. I might have believed myself to be in a warm bath up to
the chest. This is a delusion, however, for the gaseous exhalation is
pronounced by experimenters to be cooler, if anything, than the air; I
suppose they mean the air of an ordinary summer day. The walls of the
cave arc covered with a deposit of sulphur, and at the extreme end drops
of liquid are continually falling. This moisture is esteemed very highly
for disease of the eyes; it is collected by the peasants. The gas-baths
are resorted to by persons suffering from gout or rheumatism. They are
taken in this manner: The patient wears a loose dress over nothing else,
and arriving at the mouth of the cave, he must take one long breath.
Instantly he runs into the dread cavern, remaining only as long as he
can hold his breath; he then rushes back again. One single inhalation,
and he would be as dead as a door-nail! How the halt and lame folk
manage I don't know, but my guide was eloquent about the wonderful cures
that are made here every year.
There are a variety of mineral springs in different parts of the
mountain. At the source some have the appearance of boiling, from the
quantity of carbonic acid gas given off; but it is only in appearance,
for the water is very cold.
The springs which yield iron and carbonic acid are much used for
drinking. There are also some primitive arrangements for bathing near
by. A square hole is cut in the ground; this is boarded round, and a
simple wooden shed, like a gigantic dish-cover, is put over it. Here
again my guide said that miraculous cures are wrought annually. It is a
wonder that anybody is left with an ache or a pain in a country which
has such wonderful waters. I think my guide thought I was a doctor, who
was searching for a new health-resort, and he was quite ready to do his
share of the puffing.
On Mount Büdos itself, in other parts than the cave, there occurs a good
deal of sulphur; specimens are often found distributed which are very
rich indeed. The place certainly deserves a thorough exploration, with a
view to utilising the sulphur deposits; but it is so overgrown with
vegetation that the search would involve considerable trouble and
expense.
There is a fine view from Mount Büdos towards Moldavia. I was fortunate
in having good lights and shades, and therefore enjoyed the prospect
most thoroughly. I should like to have remained longer on the summit,
but not being prepared for camping out it was not possible; so very
reluctantly we set about returning.
My guide led me back to Büksad by another route, a rough road, with
deep ruts and big stones that must make driving in any vehicle, except
for the honour and glory of it, a very doubtful blessing. But bad roads
never do seem to matter in Hungary. Everybody drives everywhere; they
would drive over a glacier if they had one. Occasionally we came upon
some charming bits of forest scenery. The trees were grand, especially
the beech; they were of greater girth than any I had yet seen in
Transylvania. I noticed many mineral springs by the roadside; one could
distinguish them by the deposit of oxide of iron on the stones near by.
When I got back to Büksad, I found the bailiff waiting to tell me that
Count M - - and Baron A - - desired their compliments, and would be
pleased to see me at Tusnad, if I would go over there. I had no
introduction to these noblemen, and mention the invitation as an
instance of Hungarian hospitality. They had simply heard that an
Englishman was travelling about the country.
I rode over to Tusnad the following day, and found it, as I had been led
to expect, a very picturesque little place, a number of Swiss cottages
dropped down in the clearing of the forest, with a good "restauration,"
built by Count M - - himself. When I was there the season was over; but
I am told that it is full of fashionables in June and July, and that the
waters have an increasing reputation. My attention was drawn to the
singular fact of two springs bubbling up within six feet of each other,
which are proved by chemical analysis to be distinctly different in
composition. I fancy Count M - - was much amused at the fact of an
English gentleman travelling about alone on horseback, without any
servants or other impedimenta. I remember a friend of mine telling me
that once in Italy, when he declined to hire a carriage from a peasant
at a perfectly exorbitant price, and said he preferred walking, the
fellow called after him, saying, "We all know you English are mad enough
for anything!"
I don't know whether the Hungarian Count drew the same conclusion in my
case, but I could see he was very much amused; I don't think any other
people understand the Englishman's love of adventure.
CHAPTER XXII.
The baths of Tusnad - The state of affairs before 1848 - Inequality
of taxation - Reform - The existing land laws - Communal
property - Complete registration of titles to estates - Question of
entail.
I mixed exclusively in Hungarian society during my stay at the baths of
Tusnad. With Baron - - and Herr von - - I talked politics by the hour.
The Hungarians have the natural gift of eloquence. They pour forth their
words like the waters of a mill-race, no matter in what language. My
principal companion at Tusnad spoke French. The true Magyar will always
employ that language in preference to German when speaking with a
foreigner; but as often as not the Hungarians of good society speak
English perfectly well. The younger generation, almost without
exception, understand our language, and are extremely well read in
English literature.
I had so recently left Saxonland, where public opinion is opposed to
everything that has the faintest shade of Magyarism, that I felt in the
state of Victor Hugo's hero, of whom he said, "Son orientation était
changée, ce qui avait été le couchant était le levant. Il s'était
retourné." The transition was certainly curious, but I confess to
getting rather tired of the mutual recriminations of political parties;
respecting each other's good qualities, they are simply colour-blind.
After the Saxons had been allowed to drop out of the conversation, I led
my Magyar friend to talk of the state of things before 1848, and to
enlighten me as to the existing condition of laws of property. My
Hungarian - who, by the way, is a man well qualified to speak about legal
matters - showered down upon me a perfect avalanche of facts. Leaving out
a few patriotic flashes, the substance of what he told me was much as
follows. I had especially asked about the recent legislation on the land
question.
"In the old time, before '48, the State, the Church, and the Nobles were
the _sole_ landowners. The holding of land was strictly prohibited to
all who were not noble; but to the peasants were allotted certain
tracts, called for distinction 'session-lands.' For this privilege the
peasant had to give up a tenth part of the produce to the lord, and
besides he had to work for him two, and in some cases even _three_, days
in the week. The _robot_, or forced labour, varied in different
localities. The lord was judge over his tenants, and even his bailiff
had the right of administering twenty-five lashes to insubordinate