Augustus J. C. (Augustus John Cuthbert) Hare.

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XVI. HOME-LIFE AT LIME ....... 222







"Death is the justification of all the ways of the Christian,
the last end of all his sacrifices, — that touch of the great
Masterwhich completes the picture." — Madame Swetchine.

"Dear, beauteous Death, the jewel of the just,
Shining nowhere but in the dark,
What mysteries do lie beyond thy dust ;
Could man outlook that mark ! "

Henry Vaughan, 1690.

/^VN the 23rd October, the Augustus and Marcus Hare3
embarked together at Southampton in the Camilla,
Julius watching them from the pier till they were out of
sight, and the following morning they arrived at Havre, after
a very stormy passage. Hence they began to post through
France in their own two carriages ; " the strange barbarity of
the harness and dress of the postillions, and the miserable
horses with their fiery eyes," striking them at first, as they
did all foreign travellers in those days. By Rouen, Louviers,
and Mantes they reached Paris, where they remained several
days, and then by Fontainebleau, Sens, and Auxerre (with the
picturesqueness of which they were greatly delighted), to
Rouvray and Chalons. Hence they took the Saone steamer
to Lyons.



M. H. to Rev. O. Leycester.

"Lyons, Nov. 12, 1833. — Augustus is better, though I
never felt the cold sharper on Alton Downs than we have
had it for the last week, and French houses are little cal-
culated to contend against it, with their no carpets and
many windows and doors. Our courier Belloud turns out
so inefficient that if it is possible to do a thing wrong, or
forget to do it at all, he excels in this ingenuity of stupidity.
Put Mary, without knowing a word of the language, always
contrives to get us all we want, never has a difficulty, and —
be the hour what it may — we have always fire to get up by,
warm water to wash with, and dry sheets at night, all things
which in this weather we feel the value of doubly."

" Marseilles, Nov. 20. — We had to wait many hours at
Lyons on board the Saone steamer before it could leave on
account of the fog — hours which made me full of fear for
Augustus ; but at length we were off, and gliding down the
Rhone as fast as steam and stream could carry us, and very
fast that is — too fast sometimes, I thought, when the scenery
was especially beautiful. It was very luxurious sitting in
one's carriage and being carried along so easily, with such a
succession of pictures before and around me, and though
there is not so great a profusion of fine castles, I think the
scenery on the Rhone quite as fine as that on the Rhine.
At sunset the glow was lovely as we approached Valence, and
the little crescent moon and evening star in the midst of it.
At Avignon the change to warmth was like that to summer.
Between it and Nismes we saw the Pont du Card, which is
indeed beautiful, the old stone work of the great bridge
harmonizing so well with the wild and picturesque situation.
The leaves were still on the trees, and as the light fell
through the great arches on the autumnal tints mixed with
the dark olives, the effect was most exquisite. Here we have


much enjoyed a row through the harbour and on the

"Nice, Nov. 29. — We have greatly enjoyed being here,
and a long stay at Nice would soon fill my sketch-book.
We have engaged a Bolognese courier, Lorenzo, who is
delighted at finding that one of his masters, Marcus, is a
native of the same place as himself. We have not had
anything of the Bise at present, and have found it quite too
hot for a shawl in the boat going to Villafranca. The little
bay with its fortifications and town rising out of the sea, the
green covered mountains above, and the little vessels in the
harbour, made the most perfect picture imaginable."

The travellers left Nice, Dec. 3, and after a delightful
journey through the beauties of the Riviera, arrived at
Genoa on the 7th.

A. W. H. (Journal).

" Lyons. — We spoke to the wife of the doorkeeper at the
Musee about the cholera. She said they had escaped owing
to the good offices of Notre Dame de Fourvieres. I said a
few words about our attributing all such things to God or
his Son. She said, ' Vous croyez done au Fils, mais vous ne
croyez pas a la Mere.' "

" Valence. — Truly a river is a very wilful thing, going as
it will and where it will. It strikes me that the .Rhone
would go much more to the west if it had its own way, but
for once opposuit natura — a chain of hills runs along its
western bank, in places like a great rampart, and they keep
it within bounds. There are many points of view up the
valleys, but to me the great beauty is the river itself, with its
broad lake-like bends and reaches."

" Cnjas. — \\ hen we arrived here the postillion called out


to a friend at the inn door that we were ' God damns, della
premiera qualita.' "

" Genoa, Dec. 3. — Oh the beauty of the first half-day after
leaving Nice ! I had begun to suspect that my sense of beauty
was dying away, but— ^unwell as I was all day — I felt the
beauty of the country as vividly as I ever did before. Some-
times a rocky mountain facing us, sometimes an olive-valley
stretching down beside us, sometimes a winding course
through that gravest of things, an olive-wood, more than
one snow-capped Alp in the distance, and on the right
always the shining Mediterranean."

It was on the evening of the 7th of December that some
matters connected with the dismissal of Belloud had to be
arranged before the Court at Genoa. As Marcus was unable
to speak either French or Italian, Augustus was obliged to
go with him through a cold night air and to exert himself
greatly. As soon as he returned to the Hotel of the Croce
di Malta he went to bed, but the excitement and fatigue
brought on an unusual fit of coughing, and, while Mary
Lea was alone in the room with him. he burst a bloodvessel.
For a long time he hovered between life and death, and his
wife never left him, except for a daily walk on the ramparts,
which she always afterwards associated with that period of
anxiety when her happiness first seemed to be crumbling

M. H. (Journal).

" There was a great expression of sternness in Augustus's
countenance when we went to him after his attack. Dr. H.
intimated one day that he had been 'alarmed about himself.'
He Iookcu very serious. ' There are other causes lor dread


besides the fear of death.' ' There are sufferings of mind to
endure as well as of body.'

" The first thing he asked me to read was the fifty-first
Psalm. ' No one knows what I have been going through,'
he said to Lucy. The text 'without holiness,' &c., seemed
to have struck him very strongly. He said how he had felt
the circumstances of the evening he was taken ill. A file of
newspapers had come from Mr. Le Mesurer, and he was
busy reading them when the servants came to prayers. He
said he had been impatient at the interruption, and did not
pray willingly or heartily. In looking back over his past
life it seemed to him so bad. ' God took me out of the
world, and placed me in a little paradise, and hedged me
round with blessings, and I have done nothing for him. 1
He lamented having done so little for the children at Alton,
and expressed his strong sense of God's mercy in not taking
him in that attack, but sparing him a little longer."

L. A. H. to Mr. and Mrs O. Leycester.

" Genoa, Dec. 16, 1833. — Maria has not spared herself a
moment, and not had one good night's rest since Augustus
was taken ill, but she has borne up wonderfully, and been
so calm and serene, I trust she will not feel the effect much
afterwards. Nothing, I believe, has so tended to his restora-
tion as her perfect self-command and cheerful, quiet, unre-
mitting watchfulness. It is indeed an example good for any
one to see how she is hourly, almost minutely, in prayer,
and striving that her will may be subdued to God's will.
Once arrived at Rome, we may hope that his native air wilf
restore him to some degree of health. I need not tell you
how at this time I thankfully feel the blessing of being per-
mitted to be near them both, and the best proof I can give
you of my gratitude for all your past kindness is to watch over
your dear Maria. May God help me to do so through life."


M. H. to Mr. a?id Mrs. O. Leycester.

" Genoa, Dec. 25, 1833. — I fear your Christmas will have
been clouded by the sad tidings we have been forced to
send you. Would you could see how favourably we are
now going on. Each day he makes some little step. It is
quite like May in the sun, and Ave have a little balcony,
where Augustus can now sit out and enjoy the beautiful
view of the harbour and one side of the town. It is only
since he has been less ill that I feel what the illness has been
to me, and you must not now wonder if I cannot write very
steadily. The unspeakable mercy of having him better
overwhelms me ; and I do feel my own utter unworthiness to
have such a blessing granted when I think how impossible I
find it to resign my will to God's when His seems to be con-
trary to mine. The time here has completely swept away
the remembrance of what went before, and I can scarcely
even recall by what road we came to Genoa ; it all seems
like a dream. Oh, be thankful with me that it has pleased
God to spare me this once, and implore earnestly for me
strength to bear whatever He may in future think good to
lay on me either of anxiety or trouble

" I delight in my daily walk of an hour on the ramparts,
with the waves dashing up on one side, and so beautiful an
inland view of Genoa. Mary has kept up wonderfully and
been most invaluable in her attentions, and truly hers is a
willing service, for she puts her whole heart into it, and is
repaid for every fatigue when she sees any amendment in
her master."

Mrs. Dashwood to Julius Hare.

" Bodryddan, Dec. 1 833. — Your account of our beloved
Augustus, my poor anxiously unhappy Jule, makes me truly
miserable. If the vessel heals there is only weakness to


fear, but that is an enemy much to be dreaded, if he is

obliged to continue his journey Poor, poor Maria !

Oh, if she is but blest in seeing her husband recover, her
watchfulness will do her no harm. Happiness and gratitude
to God are never-failing averters of mischiefs. Oh, Jule, we
will pray that it may be so, and yo ur prayers, her prayers,
will be heard. How many tears have I shed over the
account : I could not read it to my aunt, they choked me.
Oh, Jule, if God sees fit to take that blessed being to
Himself, I know that it will be as if you were to lose a
portion of yourself, and yet he is so fit company for the
saints in heaven, so unfit for the unsaintliness of earth. We
can only trust to God's mercy — not to him, but to the souls
he was leading along the good path, and amongst whom
be was a guiding star and rock of comfort."

C. S. to M. H.

" Christinas Day, 1833. — Your letter is a sad Christmas

gift indeed I feel, however, disposed to follow your

example of looking only to the present, and leaving the
future entirely at His disposal, who knows what is best ....
but that this cup — this bitter cup — may pass from you, I do,
and may most earnestly pray. As I read Lucy's letter to her
mother, how I blessed the day that made her your sister,
and gave her the right to be your support and comfort now
and ever."

A. W. H. to the Miss Hares.

" Croce di Malta, Genoa, Dec. 30, 1833. — T am indeed
much better, my dear Aunts, and picking up strength daily.
When I was so ill every one had some peculiar merit which
they brought into the common stock of nursing, and most
thankful I am to them all for all they went through, and all


they put up with on my account On Christmas Day

I walked out into the balcony and basked for a few minutes

in the bright warmth of the softest sunshine This

must have been a very different Christmas to you from
the last. May the future ones be brighter and happier, and
may each of them — forgive a sick-man for concluding his
letter seriously — find you both approaching nearer and
nearer in heart and spirit to that heavenly kingdom, which
God grant we may all attain through the merits of his
Blessed Son. We start to-morrow for Pisa."

M. H. to Mr. and Mrs. O. Leycester.

" Pisa, Jan. 3, 1834. — Most thankfully do I announce
our prosperous arrival here. A more perfect May-day
could not have been for Augustus to begin his journey on.
.... We reached Chiavari at four : found Marcus and
the waiter ready with a chair to carry the sick-man up — a
good fire, warm room, and bed ready — and so ended the
first day to which we had looked forward with the chief fear.
.... The scenery for the next two days was most beauti-
ful. I can scarcely say I enjoyed it, but I have never seen
anything I admired more. There appears to be nothing to
admire in the country round Pisa, but, as we came in, the
brilliancy of the sky at sunset behind the Leaning Tower and

the domes of the town was most beautiful There

seems nothing now to be done for Augustus, but to get him
as quickly as we can to Rome, where his native air will do
more than any medicines."

M. H. to C. S.

"Pisa, Jan. 6. — .... I almost wonder that Italy is
recommended to delicate people, the changes of tempera-
ture are so sudden. To look out of the windows along the
Lung' Arno, you would think by the men's dress you were in


Russia ; all wrapped up in great cloaks, often lined with
fur, and holding them up to their mouths as you see in
pictures of winter. Look again at the women, and they are
going past in lace veils over their heads, or with gold ear-
rings hanging down on the neck, very like what our grand-
mothers used to wear from their watches, hanging from the

" I have just seen the Leaning Tower, so associated in
my mind with childish recollections ; and it is one of the
proofs I have often felt of how different a seeing impression
is from a hearsay one. It does look very strange certainly,
exactly as if some one was pushing it down, and it surprises
one never to see it go any further. The Campo-Santo is
most interesting, and Augustus tells me my education ought
to begin there, as it contains the best specimens of Giotto,
Orcagna, Gozzoli, &c. You would be intensely interested
in Orcagna's frescoes, which are most Dantesque in concep-
tion and spirit. But my present recollections of art are all
in favour of a beautiful dead head of Christ with the
Madonna, by Michael Angelo, in the Albergo dei Poveri
at Genoa, and two most exquisite pictures of Fra Bartolomeo
at Lucca, which reach a degree of beauty beyond anything
I ever saw."

M. H. (Journal).

"Jan. 7. — We moved to Leghorn to be ready for the

" Jan. 14. — The packet Sully came in. We took a boat
and went on board, just as our carriages were put in. Tt
was a lovely warm day, and the view of the town and bay
quite beautiful— the mountains tipped with snow shining in
the sun. After looking at our berths, we took a further row
round the moles of the town under the quarter where all
the Jews live, and landed near the English cemetery, an


enclosed ground, filled with tombs interspersed with

"Jan. 15. — At twelve o'clock we were on board the
Sully : the wind was cold and easterly, and I greatly feared
for Augustus, but we got him down into the cabin, where to
our joy we found only one lady and her maid as fellow-
passengers. It soon appeared that she was on her way to
Rome, to nurse a sick brother, whom they scarcely expected
to find alive. No objection was made to Augustus remain-
ing in our cabin, so he had my berth, and I lay on the sofa
just below him, able to supply all his wants at a moment's
notice, and certainly as free from anxiety as circumstances
would admit of. The vessel rolled extremely, and the night
wore tediously away. It was not till one p.m. that we
reached Civita Vecchia. The sun was very hot, and my
poor Augustus was quite knocked up, and with difficulty we
got him into a boat amongst the crowd waiting to take us
on shore. He was carried on a chair through the streets to
the hotel, but it was several hours before we could get his
bed made."

"Jan. 17. — It was ten o'clock before we were fairly on
our way to Rome. The road kept near the sea for some
miles, then turned across an uncultivated heathy country
with little but bushes of myrtle and box, in patches here and
there. The sun was extremely hot, and Augustus got very
tired as we went along the tedious hills without stopping for
three and a half posts, and then, after changing horses, on
again till about sunset, when all at once he called out
'There is Rome!' and in two minutes after we spied
Marcus's head above the britschka, pointing it out. Far to
the right a dome was visible that one doubted not was St.
Peter's. Augustus, in his anger at the postboy for not
stopping to show us S. Pietro, would call out of the
window and upbraid him, and thus my first sensations of


delight were turned into those of fear. And truly the sight
of Rome, associated as it was with the end of a perilous
journey, did make one's heart full to overflowing in addition
to all its own associations. It was not till long afterwards
that we had passed the tedious hills, and descended into
the plain, and reached a few houses and roads between
walls, and soon we saw the dome again rising above them
on one side of us. Scarcely had we entered the Porta
Cavalleggieri, when, through some magnificent columns on
one side, the colonnade of St. Peter's burst upon us, lighted
up with the bright moonlight, and, as we drove on, not less
striking were the Castle of St. Angelo, the Pantheon, and
the Fountain of Trevi, as we passed each in succession in
going to and from the custom-house."

M. H. to E. Penrhyn, Esq.

"Rome, Feb. i, 1834. — I write with but a sad heart, for I
have little good to tell. We are at last settled in our lodg-
ings, and are very comfortable as to rooms. Augustus and
I have two, opening into each other, one of which has full
morning sun, and is so warm we never need a fire till after
sunset. It is very quiet, too, and looks out on the Church of
the Trinita de' Monti. We have besides two sitting-rooms,
and M. and L.'s bedroom and dressing-room with servants'
rooms, for twenty-two louis a month, which at this time is
considered very cheap. We moved into them last Tuesday,
and feel all the comfort, after our long wanderings, of being
at last stationary. I wish I could add that we had the
comfort of seeing any amendment in my poor Augustus, but

at present I fear there is none For some days he

went out for an hour at twelve o'clock on the Pincio or
in the Borghese Gardens, and got out of the carriage for ten
minutes to bask in the sun, but now he is not able." ....

"The only thing I have seen, except St. Peter's, is the


view from Bunsen's house on the Capitol He has

lived here for seventeen years, and has a love for anti-
quities and art which will be most useful to us. But at
present I not only grudge wasting such good things with a
mind so little at ease, but I find that the strain upon my
attention only makes me feel doubly the anxiety awaiting
my return."

M. H. to C. S.

" On Thursday Marcus took me in a carriage up to the
Capitol where Bunsen lives. Except that moonlight vision of
grandeur in entering Rome, I had as yet seen nothing but
the view from the Pincio over modern Rome. Think then of
our delight, upon being shown into Bunsen's room, to look
down upon all most interesting objects in the ancient city
lying beneath us, with the mountains and the towns of
Frascati and Albano lit up by the evening sun in the back-
ground. We were so occupied in looking out of the win-
dow as not to see Mrs. Bunsen come in, and could hardly
turn away to speak to her. Soon after he came in : it is a
square figure and round face, with a very German look ex-
pressive of benevolence, in which one finds out by degrees
the lines of thought and intelligence. Then we asked to
look again at the view, and he, with the utmost clearness,
in English, pointed out to us the details. Having gone
through them from the drawing-room windows, he took us
through the salon to his own study, and thence, for the first
time, we saw the Coliseum, the Temple of Peace, St. John
Lateran, and, far beyond, the Sabine Hills. Having studied
all that side, he took us to another window and balcony,
which looked out on St. Peter's and the whole of modern
Rome, the different views forming the most complete pano-
rama. I felt at home with both Mr. and Mrs. Bunsen
immediately, and five out of the nine children were running


••bout with that sort of tact of well brought-up children that
are never in the way, yet always of the party. They took
us down into the garden, and showed us an Indian fig-tree
they had planted seventeen years ago, on first coming, when
they found neither doors nor windows in the house."

C. S. to M. H.

" Jan. 3, 1834. — How constantly you have been in my
thoughts since I wrote last, I need not tell you. I feel that
you see the case so exactly in its due proportions of hope
and fear. I think that I do so myself; — the present pro-
gress, all one can desire, save in the one point of the cough,
— the long-continued obstinacy of that, — the tendency to
excited circulation, — the anxious, precarious uncertainty be-
fore you. Oh ! what a merciful compensation and dispen-
sation it is, that the same tenderness of nature which makes
you so sensibly alive to smaller anxieties than this, also
enables you to feel in its fullest sense that higher love
which can alone be your support, and that perfect trust
which can rest all in His hands. I cannot tell you how
often it has occurred to me within the last fortnight to think
of you, your present situation, your present feelings, with
almost envy, certainly with comparative comfort, with peace ;
to hear all the littlenesses that occupy the unafflicted, — how
health and outward and visible prosperity all fail, how
entirely happiness is independent of all, — and if so now,
what in the future ? "

" Feb. 3. — How many people have burst into tears like
you at the first sight of the dome of St. Peter's, but surely
no one ever did it with such mingled emotions — the point
of hope for so long — all associations lost in comparison
with the one prime object; and yet not tost, for if it had
been Lucca, Pisa, any other place that was to cure him,
the sight would have been welcomed, yet not have affected


you in the same way If Augustus had not the self-
denial to foibear letting down the window and scolding
the postboy, how will he be kept from talking to Bunsen,
&c ? " . . . .

" Feb. ii. — I am obliged to repeat to myself very often,
' no amendment is to be expected under three weeks,' but
it was impossible not to feel disappointed, that when the
first fatigue of the journey was over the cough was the
same, but the excitement of it is not over yet, — in short, we

must rest in patience and hope How I did feel that

I went with you to Bunsen's salon ! and I had been think-
ing, as you had probably, only of the pleasure of seeing
Bunsen, and forgot the situation ; and now if you were to

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