Charles Frederick Holder.

The Californian (Volume 4) online

. (page 33 of 120)
Online LibraryCharles Frederick HolderThe Californian (Volume 4) → online text (page 33 of 120)
Font size
QR-code for this ebook

slopes of Mt. Kellogg and Mt. Hut-

Beyond the Cascades, appears North
Dome, which rises to a height of 3,450
feet, resembling somewhat the Wash-
ington Column of the Yosemite. An
imposing rock is seen east of this
noble pile, and is named, perhaps from
the strength and boldness of its out-
line, Lion Rock. But it is much in-
ferior in height to the main contour of
the north wall. Everywhere, heaped
in the direst disorder, are huge bould-
ers with trees growing in the crevices
between them, or wild flowers that
have sprung from seeds wafted to the
thinly covered surface of the rock by
the early winds.

Back of Lion Rock, Copper Creek
wends its way into the valley from a
neighborhood of picturesque lakes that
cluster upon the ridge rising between
the two forks of King's River. All
the region drained by this romantic
stream is rich in groves of spruce and
fir, and meadows of the choicest
flowers. The remaining portion of
the north wall is low T , as compared
with some of the rocks on the opposite
side of the valley. Three miles up
the valley are found the Roaring Falls
and Cascades. A network of silver

ribbons pours its waters into the
Roaring River to form this most
unique range of waterfalls.

On the south wall is Cathedral
Rocks, situated just east of the Fall,
and somewhat resembling the rocks
of the same name in the Yosemite.
Following Cathedral Rocks, is a cluster
called the Seven Gable.s — massive and
broad at the base, but carved into
gables, turrets and arches on the

Avalanche Cascade, which has its
rise near the base of a peak similarly
named, separates the Seven Gables
from the Sentinel Group, the highest
rock prominence of which reaches a
height of 3,300 feet. This Grand
Sentinel presents to one side of the
valley a perfectly smooth, flat face and
is peculiarly sculptured. The entire
group comprises Grand Sentinel, East
and West Sentinels, and Lower Senti-
nel, all imposing rock structures of
enormous proportions. The Sphinx,
having a vertical sphinx-like face,
about 4,000 feet in height, is the
highest rock on the south wall. Cave
Dome and Leaning Dome are in close
proximity to the Sphinx, and are both
over 3,000 feet high. In among the
Sentinel Group, a series of cascades
called the Sentinel Cascades, leap and
play in wild confusion, making a
fall of 2,000 feet. Bear Cascades,
the succeeding strip of falling water,
fall a greater distance than the Senti-
nel Cascades, but are less wild and

The whole succession of exquisitely
modeled rocks, from Cathedral Rocks
to Leaning Dome, is, perhaps, the
most imposing and awe-inspiring
feature of the Sierra Nevada Moun-
tains. But when the head of the
valley is reached, a bold, impressive
structure confronts us — the loftiest,
most magnificent of all. Glacier
Monument, standing like a gigantic
statue as the terminal point of the
valley and guardian of its treasures,
looms to a height of over a mile, and
is symmetrically outlined.

At Glacier Monument the river di-



vides into two branches, one ex-
tending northward through Paradise
Canon, while the other follows an
eastward ravine, stretching far up into
the snows of the High Sierra, where
it gains its source at the base of Mt.
Tyndall and other peaks. The gorge
is comparatively narrow, and is in
some places choked by the boulders,
which only add to the rugged wildness
of the scenery. The stream enters
the great canon in a disorderly cascade
of 800 feet in height. Above this cas-
cade, the water falls in rapids through
a wilderness of forest trees.

Paradise Canon presents a grander
and more striking appearance, for the
walls of the stream are more stupend-
ous in height, while for ten miles, the
river sweeps along in one mighty
stream, broken here and there by a
series of cascades and falls. Shadowed
by the Monument is a meadow, broad
and flat, containing rich blossoms of
purple, gold and red. On the east,
beyond the monument, Paradise Peak
stands in stately beauty. Few of the
rocks possess that delicacy of sculptur-
ing that characterizes this lofty peak.
Although slightly resembling North
Tower,Paradise Peak lacks the ragged-
ness that is a prominent feature of its
neighbor, and is much more sublime.
We camped for many days in one of
the shady ravines of the valley, where
a commingling of beauty and grandeur
in the flowers and rocks, and symphony
in the music of the river, might charm
the first hours of day or lull us to
rest at night. One object in selecting
a somewhat central point, lay in our
plan of making excursions to all the
places of interest in the great King's
River Canon.

How extravagant Nature has been

in this enchanting region ! Not only
one divinely beautiful valley, but two
of unsurpassed sublimity. From our
camp, we made an excursion into the
wonderful Tehipitee Valley, which is
almost as grand as the King's River
Canon, and is the canon of the middle
fork of King's River. It may be
reached by ascending the Copper
Creek Valley, then crossing a ridge
and descending into the head of a
canon. The floor is level, containing
parks and gardens of beautiful trees
and flowers, with great walls to en-
close it, 2,000 to 4,000 feet high.

The width of the valley is half a
mile, the length about three miles.
The river flows smoothly for a long
distance, when it breaks into cascades
and waterfalls, making a leap at one
place of 2,000 feet. The Tehipitee
Fall, formed by a comparatively small
stream, is 1,800 feet high, first falling
in little lacy streams, resembling some-
what the Mossbrae Fall of Siskiyou
County, then uniting near the bank to
plunge into a pool of the clearest

East of the Fall stands Tehipitee
Dome, a majestic granite tower, 2,500
feet high. It stands out from the
main wall, grand in its simplicity of
architecture, mighty in its pensive
solitude. The south wall is pinnacled
and spired curiously, reminding one
of mediaeval castles and palaces.

Of the other excursions to be made
in this vicinity, the climb to Tyndall's
summit is one of the most important.
Avalanche Peak ranks next. Then
follow Mt. Brewer, Mt. Kellogg, the
Helmet, and numerous other peaks,
from either side of which broad,
sweeping views of the grand Sierras
may be enjoyed.



While knowledge and high wisdom yet were young,

Through Sicily of old, from tryst to tryst,
Wandered with sad-set brow and eloquent tongue

The melancholy austere Rhapsodist.
" All my life long ' ' he sang, ' ' by many ways

I follow truth, where devious footmarks fall ;
Now I am old, and still my spirit strays,

Mocked and eluded, lost amid the all."
That was Mind's youth and ages long ago,

And still thine hunger, Oh Xenophanes,
Preys on the hearts of men, and to and fro

They probe the same implacable mysteries ;
The same vast toils oppress them, and they bear
The same unquenchable hope, the same despair.



The idle doings of an idler day

Dance back to mock me when the day is done ;
The squandered hours of a spendthrift play,

The ghosts of ends of endless things begun ;
Time's terse lieutenants, misused moments, — all
Write TEKEL plain on retrospection's wall.

Chance hours there may be when the heart is prone
To be content with sweet and sinless ways ;

And some stray words, like idle winds, are blown
Into mine ears to lisp insidious praise

Of softer sin, and lure me back from where

I had withdrawn in silent thought and prayer.

But only pass the ghosts of sordid ways,
Of ghoulish triumphs over scorned good,

That glide before mine eyes of stone, and raze
My better moments to a bitter mood,

Making me hate the paltry world of pelf,

But bitter most of all against myself.

O come, sweet hour of strength at morning time —
Calm strength of will, that shall not steal away,

Teaching my lips sweet answers, that shall climb
To very Heaven as off 'rings from the day ;

Sweet natal hour of purpose, that shall blend

With daily consummation to the end.


HERE are many im-
portant features which
entitle Salt Lake City
to more than ordinary
consideration, not only
as a commercial center, but as a
natural sanitarium and delightful
place of residence. The city is sit-
uated at an elevation of 4,350 feet
above sea level, with the towering
peaks of the Wasatch and Oquirrh
ranges extending for thousands of feet
above her, sheltering and protecting
her from the elements, and sending
down through the canons the pure
rarefied air, which, with the breeze
from the Great Salt Lake, fifteen miles
to the west, forms a combination of
atmospheric invigoration which can-
not be found elsewhere in the United
States. The seasons are regular, and
drift one into the other almost im-
perceptibly. Spring opens early, and
in April the foothills and canons are
ablaze with the most gorgeous wild
flowers. As the season advances the
entire valley, stretching to the north
and south as far as the eye can reach,
is transformed into a veritable garden.
There is but a short season of hot
weather — as a rule not more than
three or four weeks — when the sun is
uncomfortably warm in the middle cf
the day, but even then the morn-
ings and evenings are pleasant, and
the nights cool enough to necessi-
tate a pair of blankets. Winter lin-
gers from the middle or latter part of
December to early March ; but during
all that time, instead of the murk}-,

dismal and wet weather prevalent in
so many cities of the country, there is
always dry air and generally sun-

The growth of the city itself has
been phenomenal, but also sure and
steady, and the value of real estate
has never fluctuated materially since
the spirit of enterprise and progress
became dominant. The annual report
of the Salt Lake Chamber of Com-
merce, published in April, 1893,
places the City's assessed valuation at
$55,000,000; the population at 70,000.
In the past three years the municipality
expended nearly $2,000,000 in public
improvements, consisting of about 100
miles of graded streets, 30 miles of
sidewalks, an improved water system,
that now pays at the rate of five per
cent, on a basis of a $1,500,000 invest-
ment ; a thoroughly equipped and
efficient fire department ; a perfect
system of irrigation and numerous
other improvements. In addition to
the foregoing, one-half the moneys

-t« yur





expended on the joint City and
County building, a beautiful structure
occupying, with the grounds around it,
an entire block, has been supplied by
the city, and a sewerage system second
to none in the country is well under
way. New buildings and improve-
ments for the year past amounted to
$2,015,000. Stone and brick have re-
placed frame and adobe, and most of
the business blocks and residences
are built of native product. Gran-
ite, gray and red stone are quarried in
abundance in the vicinity of Salt L,ake
City, and are used principally for
fronts of buildings, sidewalks stairs,
curbing and paving. There are half
a dozen companies engaged in this
industry alone.

One of the most important of the
many improvements made in the past
three years, is the paving of the
streets in the immediate business dis-
trict of the city. A part of this is
already completed. The materials
used are granite blocks along the curb
for ten feet into the roadway, and also
between the street-car tracks, the
balance being asphaltum. The found-
ation of all is sand, and six inches of
concrete. All the materials for paving


and building are mined and quarried
in Utah, and most of the contracts
have been given to the Culmer-
Jennings Company, a local corporation
which has its own plant and works its
own mines and quarries. Utah asphalt
has proven itself to be the equal, if
not the superior of both the Trinidad
and California products.




The change in the street railway
system from horse power to electricity
occurred in the fall of 1889. The
following year horses as motive power
had entirely disappeared, and at the
present time it would be hard to sug-
gest any portion of the town, or im-
mediate vicinity, in need of further
transportation facilities.

There are many signs pointing
toward this city becoming a great
railway center. Roads are coming
here from the East, and other roads
going westward will bring about this
result, necessitating the building of a
Union depot where passengers, bag-
gage, express and freight may be
transferred with alacrity and economy.
The Union Pacific is the pioneer of
the many roads now entering the
city, and has several important
branches connecting this point with
the inexhaustible coal fields and
mines of the territory. The first
train rolled into Salt Lake in 1872.

Following the Union Pacific's com-
pletion came the Rio Grande Western
— at that time a narrow-gauge con-
necting Salt Lake City with Denver,
and completing a direct chain of travel
and commerce with all points East.
This road was finished April 23d,
1893, an d with the Denver & Rio
Grande has since become famous as




the scenic line of the world. Passen-
gers in either direction choose the Rio
Grande Western for the marvels of
scenery presented en route.

On this route one passes through
the fertile valleys of the Salt Lake and
Provo Basins, the grand mountain
canons and gorges, Castilla Springs
Resort, the desert east of Green River,
with its awe-inspiring silences,
its walls of weird, fantastic moun-
tains (suggesting to the mind
the famous description of the
desert in " Ben Hur "), and the
grand, majestic gateway at the
entrance of the canon, where
two gigantic pillars of stone
tower almost to the clouds, and
are fittingly named " Castle

To meet the requirements of
. ^. increasing traffic, and establish a
through car service from Denver
to the Pacific Coast, the Rio
Grande Western was changed to
standard gauge, and the first
through train under the new
arrangement reached Salt Lake
on the 1 6th of November, 1890.




It now boasts of as thorough and com-
plete equipment and fine rolling stock
as any railroad in the United States, and
makes the run of 716 miles between
Denver and Salt Lake City in twenty-
three hours.

There are several new roads likely
to materialize in the near future, the
two most important of which are the
extension of the Great Salt Lake and
Hot Springs Railroad to Coalville
(which will bring coal in such abun-
dance as to materially reduce the

any location on the higher ground in
the immediate vicinity of Salt Lake
City. Here in 1890 was started the
foundation of what is now one of the
most popular residence portions of the
city. House after house was reared
with energetic rapidity. Then street-
car companies, foreseeing the rapid
growth of " Darlington Place," at once
extended their electric lines on First
and Third Streets, giving the residents
a double service of rapid transit, which
makes its homes eagerly sought for by


price to consumers) and the road to
the Deep Creek Country, which is
some 230 miles west of the city and is
considered by experts to be a second
Leadville. It is an undisputed fact
that the building of the Deep Creek
road will eventually lead to a new
transcontinental line to the Pacific

The real estate market is in a health-
ful condition, the sales for the year
amounting to $7»743,3 I 5- During
the city's recent wonderful progress,
many additions within the city limits
were laid out and sold to home-seekers,
so that many important resident dis-
tricts have been added to the city
proper. Perhaps the most successful
of these has been " Darlington Place,"
which is situated on the bench to the
east, overlooking the entire city and
valley far away to the west and south,
and affording one of the finest views of

intending purchasers or tenants. In
two years this locality has grown from
a few scattered houses to a thriving
community represented by countless
homes, every one of which has been
built with an eye to the special com-
fort and convenience of its occupants.
In each house may be found every
convenience known to modern archi-
tecture and building. The residents
of Darlington Place are now building
in their midst their own church, and
this will be formally dedicated ere
these pages go to press. The promot-
ers of Darlington Place have pursued
a most judicious course in their oper-
ations, giving the option to buyers of
building themselves, or furnishing
their own plans, besides making the
terms of purchase easy enough to suit
all buyers. This, together with the
choice location, is the keynote to the
situation, and such is the present pop-



ularity of Darlington Place,
that new buildings may be
seen in all stages of con-
struction from the founda-
tion to the last finishing

There have been so many
great changes in the busi-
ness district, as well as the
residence part of the city,
that it would be hard in-
deed to give an accurate
statement as to the number
of business blocks and fine residences
which now grace this metropolis. A
drive through the city will find the
old landmarks gradually disappearing
before the steady advance of improve-
ments. The largest blocks recently
completed are the Dooley, Commer-
cial, McCormick, Zion's Bank, Hoop-
er, Culmer, Dinwoodey, Constitu-
tion, Progress, Scott-Auerbach and
Mercantile. The postoffiee in the
magnificent Dooley Block, is a model
of completeness in every detail. The
City and County building, already
completed to the fourth story, is one of
the finest and most elaborate struc-
tures in the West. There are sixteen
banks, both national and private,



twenty-six hotels, at which accommo-
dations of any class, from the cheapest
to the most extravagant, may be
obtained, three hospitals, thirty benev-
olent societies, a Deaf Mute and
Normal Institutes, Woman's and
Orphans' Homes — in fact all the nec-
essary auxiliaries of a large and
thriving city.

Standing prominently at the head
of the great commercial houses of
Salt Lake, is the extensive and vet-
eran establishment known as Zion's
Co-operative Mercantile Institution.
The high character earned by twenty-
five years of honorable business
enterprise, the great resources and
facilities accumulated and acquired
during that time, the experience of
the wants of the trade, gained by a
long observation of its requirements,
and the energy, business ability and
liberality that characterize all opera-
tions of the house, command for it a
most conspicuous and honored position
among the mercantile institutions of
Utah. This great establishment was
founded on the plan of broad, liberal
ideas, with the view of bringing the
cost of the necessities of life down to
a basis of reasonable prices. There is
an old maxim commonly current in
trade of " Live and Let Live." This
corporation, however, thought that
it could improve upon this old say-
ing, and adopted the maxim of ' ' Live
and Help to Live." That it has been
a decided improvement, thousands of
the people of Utah testify to-day, in
broad and unmistaken terms. The
institution was originally organized




with a capital of $500,000 — the stock-
holders comprising the most influen-
tial men of Salt Lake. The city was
then nothing but a village, but the
wants of its people were many and the
supply was limited. Money was
scarce and articles of necessity were
dear. These public - spirited men
realized that something had to be
done to relieve the pressure upon the
people. They banded themselves and
their capital together and paid half a
million in cash to establish the enter-
prise and buy goods. By this means
the necessities were purchased at a
lower figure than could be obtained on
the credit system, and the consumer
received the benefit of low prices.
The progress of this institution has
been remarkable. Inch by inch, and
step by step, it has ascended the lad-
der of commercial fame, until it now
carries a stock of $1,250,000, and the
annual sales are between three and
four million dollars. In addition to
the huge establishment in Salt Lake
the company has reached out its pow-
erful arms and located branches at

Ogden, Provo, Logan,
Utah, and Idaho Falls,
Id., ail of which trans-
act an enormous busi-
ness annually. The
institution is located in
a large and magnificent
iron and stone front
building, with 165 feet
frontage on Main street,
and containing in all
something over 153,000
square feet of floor space.
The factory is a four-
story and basement
structure 50 by 165,
provided with four boil-
ers of eighty - horse
power each, and two
JB&if engines of 100-horse
power. The factory
turns out 500 pair of
boots and shoes, and
seventy-five dozen over-
alls daily. The drug
department is separate
from the- main establishment and is
filled with the largest and best selected
stock to be found anywhere in the
country. The establishment supplies
nearly, if not all the necessities of
life, and a majority of the luxuries
also. In this vast institution 300 men
and women are employed, and the
pay-roll amounts annually to nearly
$250,000. The twenty-fourth annual
statement of April 1 st, 1893, set forth
by this corporation, shows its re-
sources to be $2,126,156.92, with total
cash receipts for the year of $3,100,-
232.76. A dividend of three per cent,
is paid to the stockholders.

Prominent among the leading hotels
is the " Knutsford," a magnificent,
granite seven-story building which
occupies something less than half a
block, at the intersection of State and
Third South Streets, and is under the
able management of G. S. Holmes.
This hotel was opened for the recep-
tion of guests, June 3d, 1891, and rep-
resents an actual outlay of $750,000.
Centrally located, with both of the
important street car lines passing the



west and south entrances, with accom-
modations comprising 250 guests'
rooms, single or en suite, provided with
every convenience known to modern
times, it may well lay claim to the lead-
ing place among the finest hotels of the
inter-mountain region.

A popular and elegant hotel is the
" Manitou," just east of the " Knuts-
ford," which under the present man-
agement bids fair to rival the larger
and more pretentious hotels of the city.
There is quiet, refined taste displayed
in all the appointments of the ' ' Man-
itou," and one might look in vain for
a more pleasant room or suite of rooms
than can be found within its walls.
Immediately underneath the hotel, on
the ground floor, are the Turkish
baths. It is but fair to say that these
compare favorably with any of which
our largest cities on the Continent

Diagonally opposite the great Mor-
mon Temple and Tabernacle, with the
historical points of interest of Salt
Lake City all within a stone's throw,



stands the " Templeton," a structure
of architectural beauty, and another
monument to the enterprise of the
city's progressive citizens. This hotel
at once established its place among
the best, and its situation and elegant
appointments make it a favorite with
the traveling public.
Electric cars passing
the entrance connect
with all depots and
the various resorts
and parks. The din-
ing-room is situated
on the top floor, and
affords a magnificent
view of the entire
valley and the great
Salt Lake.

"The Morgan,"
one of the most at-
tractive and conve-
niently constructed
hotels in the west,
has, since its open-
ing, May 1st, 1891,
made a host of
friends, whose ap-
preciation is testified
by their constant
patronage. Its ap-
pearance, indicative
of solidity, is fully
borne out b3 r the sat-



isfaction afforded its guests. Its sit-
uation is most advantageous, electric
car lines running from the door to all
depots, and the many points of inter-
est located in the city. Its situation
in relation to central points of interest
is well nigh perfect, the Temple,
Tabernacle, Gardo House, Theater
and Co-operative Store all being located

Online LibraryCharles Frederick HolderThe Californian (Volume 4) → online text (page 33 of 120)