c-A ^^
THE
MjiIstahlB Pantaloon Sptem
n ceMPiiEw DisQuigiTieM
©HE flF^rp AND SGIBNGE
1^
•^ " PANTAL00N GdTTING.
if
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/
CHARLES H. SCOTT,
Author and Publisher.
Bloominecton, 111., ISSS.
Ad
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1888, by
Charles H. Scott, Bloomington, Illinois,
In the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C.
f - /35/
Yours Respectfully,
Oh ARISES M. Scott,
Invetitar jintf Proprietor.
CAdTlON.
/ hereby caution anyone against giving instructions by my system, as I reserve,
by virtue of the United Stales copyright laws, all rights. Any infringements on
these rights will be prosecuted to the full extent of the law. I have no agents,
and no one is authorized to act for vie.
CHARI^BS H. SCOTT,
Hlaainitinrtaii. ////nois.
Ii^tpodtietion.
To cut a pair of pantaloons to fit the form of man is a task not
easily accomplished. Stop and study the makeup of the
average man, with his variously-shaped limbs, — namely, the straight
leg, slightly knock-kneed, extremely knock-kneed, slighdy bow-leg-
ged, extremely bow-legged, and the corpulent form, — to be grace-
fully clothed, and at the same time secure a perfect balance and the
required amount of ease in its proper place.
Knowing that all former works on the art and science of gar-
ment cutting, treated principally on the vital points for coat and
vest, I took it upon myself to perfect an "Adjustable Pantoloon
System." It is founded only on principles of common sense, and
is the result of long study, practice, and close application.
I can truly say that I have at last found the "long felt want"
for my fellow-craftsman, and by its use the cutting of the long neg-
lected pantaloon may be rendered a work of pleasure, instead of
being, as it is under the old system, a constant source of worry and
trouble. All former works on the art of jiantaloon cutting adNance
the idea of only one form of limb to shape for; my work treats on
six distinct forms.
The "Adjustable Pantaloon System" can only be found by
actual tai)e-line measurement, and if careftdly and properly taken,
and drafted accordingly, will be found free from errors.
You will find my work on pantaloon culling a safe guide, and a
reliable comi)anion for the fraternity of cutters.
Respectfully,
CHA^RI^BS H. SCOTT.
N. B. — Much benefit can be derived by reading and studying
my work thoroughly.
^0W to take ^easapei^eipti).
Place your customer upon the pedestal. Have him remove all
books and handkerchiefs from his pockets. See that his pants are
drawn u]) snugly in the crotch, and properly locate his dress. Fully
understand him, and he you.
1. Take your i/is/dt- scai/i from solid crotch to seam of shoe heel.
Now locate the Iicight he prefers at hip (with chalk).
2. From marked point at hip to seam of shoe heel for outside scam.
3. From marked point at hip to center of knee.
4. The Waist Measure. — This should be taken at the
point located at hip, as this point is ofteii lost by not iocati/io- your
loaisf with the /leiglit preferred for outside seam, causing your waist
to be targe or small.
5. The Abdomex. — This should be taken solid at the extreme
point of same.
6. The Seat Measure. — This should be taken as your cus-
tomer prefers — solid, medium, or easy, the medium being preferred.
7. The Right Thigh.
8. The Left Thigh.
These measurements should be taken to compare tvith seat
pressure.
9. Knee Measurement. — Always make sure you understand
what style of pants your customer wants — tigJit, medium, or loose leg.
10. Bottom. — Fully understand whether he wants them straight,
slightly shaped, or spring bottom.
Make inquiries as to the style oi pocket he prefers.
Make note of his limbs — straight leg, slightly knock-kneed,
extremely knock-kneed, slightly bow-legged, or extre?ncly bow-legged.
This will be easily accomplished by requesting your customer to
place his heels together, when taking his position on the pedestal.
In all cases make your tape-line your guide; depend on it, and
nothing else. You will work by actual thigh measurement.
You will find, in some cases, a larger or a smaller thigh than
my actual scale. In either case, compare measurement with my scale.
This is often overcome by finding that you have taken your seat
measure too tight or too loose.
Be careful while taking your measurement, for a perfect-fitting
pantaloon can only be produced by an accurate measurement.
N. B. — Please give the above careful study, and you will find
your time will not be lost, but you will derive much benefit from it.
ADJUSTABLE PANTALOON SYSTEM.
pFepapIng goap ©paft.
i:\i^ preparing o{ yonr draft \?. just as c-ssr////a/ as an accurate
measurement. You should never go astray from your measurement,
but at the time you take it, fully understand yowx measurement to be
correct in every detail. Then in the preparing of same you have
confidence, and by applying same as instructed, you will soon gain a
reputation as a pantaloon cutter. Some say, "I have not the time
to make my drafts on paper:' This idea should be dropped, as no
one can make his ^/ra// on the cloth with accuracy and economy.
You gain the following by adhering to the above rules :
1. Accuracy.
2. Economy.
3. Time.
4. Trouble.
5. y^ perfect-fitting pantaloon.
N. B. — I would advise you to jv/// at i on front and back, and
half-way between M and U on the front, at the time you find the
correct place for notch 5 from 4. This is done for accuracy in mak-
ing up.
ADJUSl'ABLE PANTALOON SYSTEM.
ppepan>irj)g goai® Sloth.
To prepare your elotli for the eutting-board is one of the arts
Unig /u-iilee/et/. C'loth not properly prepared causes misfits and a
L,M-eat many altei-ations.
Negligeiiee in prepariii your elotli also eaiises many drags and
lori/ikles after being made up.
I prepare my cloth for my ci/ttii/g-/>oard a."^ folUnus:
1. Give it a thorough spoiigiug.
2. I press my cloth perfectly smooth, and at the same time
I am careful not to stretch it out oi place at any one poi/it.
3. I carefully dry the same, seeing I replace no stretches or
To those who have never practiced this, I would advise a few
trials, and I am sure they will save time and trouble.
ADJUSTABLE PANTALOON SYSTEM.
J^i i^e ©catting iable.
A great many cutters have an idea that when their draft is com-
pleted nothing but a good-fitting pantaloon can be the result.
This is a serious mistake, for one must use accuracy in cutting
his garment. There are many points to be looked after :
1. See that your cloth is perfectly sniootJi on your cutting-table
(especially the under half).
2. See that your stripes or cJiecks S-XQ property matched.
3. See that you do not stretch or pull your cloth out of shape.
4. Take pains in drafting your cloth.
5. When cutting your pants, see that every notch is made in its
proper place, and especially at F on diagram i, and halfway between
U and M, for at these points too much is depended upon the jour,
in making up. Carelessness in cutting causes as much trouble as a
poor measurement. Misfits and poor-fitting pantaloons come from
the following : Incorrect measurement, a misconception of the limbs,
carelessness in preparing your draft, and in the cutting of your cloth.
Be careful not to let your shears drag when cutting, but make them
cut clean.
By studying and practicing the above, you will find that so
much blame will not be laid to the jour, in making up.
I have seen drafts replaced upon the cloth after it was cut, and
it was impossible to make any two notches of the draft compare
with those on the cloth. This is often caused by stretching your
cloth when drafting or cutting; your shears often dragged your
under cloth, so when you snip your notches the under half is from
^ to 34 of an inch off from those of your u]i])er half. Try this
after cutting your garment and see if same is not correct.
ADJUSTABLE PANTALOON SYSTEM.
HOW TO BRAFT A FORiEPART FOR STRAIGHT LIMBS.
The measurements used are as follows:
Outside seam, - - 403^. From Hip to Knee, 223^.
Inside seam, - - 30}^. Waist, - - - - 31^.
Abdomen, - - - 34 Seat, - - - - 37/^-
Right Thigh, - - 215^. Left Thigh, - - 221^.
Knee, - - - 17 Bottom, - - - 17
Point off from K to B, outside seam, Afi% inches; from B to C,
30!/^ inches, inside seam; from A to D, 22^ inches, from hip to
knee; from B to E, in all cases i inch; from B to Y, in all cases 7
inches. (This is done for accuracy in making up.)
Square out from A, C, D, F, E, and B. On line C, point off ^
of the seat measure (37^ inches), to G, or 9/^ inches; from C,
point off 3^ to H (smallest thigh measure, 21 j4), or 10^ inches.
From C to I is ^ of smallest thigh, or ^j/s inches; from B to J is
y^l of smallest thigh, or 5^8 inches. Find y^ of seat measure from
G to K. Lessen your front from L to M, 3^ of an inch. Square up
from G to N. Line from J, through I, to O. P is located }s of
the distance between I and O. F'rom P to Q, on fourths, find the
abdomen measure, which is 34 inches. From G, line through Q to
R. From N to S is 5^ waist measure (31^), or 7^-^ inches. From
T to U is 34^ of knee, 17 inches. From T to V is }{ of knee, 17
inches. From J to W is }{ of knee, less }{ of an inch. From J to
X is j^l of knee, less }4 of an inch. From X, line through V; from
V to H; from W to U; from U through M. Shape your hip from
S to L. Round point XX to M.
For dress, from H to Y, i inch; from G to Z, i inch; line from
Z to R; shape from Y to i, 6 inches; with stride rule shape from H
to line opposite K; from Y to SS.
Your forepart being complete, trim out same.
Shape your bottom on front as per diagram, from BB to AA.
This will give length for your front, by allowing i inch for turn-up,
unless your cloth takes up in the making. Always allow a good
turn-up when you can.
ss
S\ A
m
i.j
ADJUSTABLE PANTALOON SYSTEM.
lIIu§tpatIoip foF ©iagFQiY) 2.
TO DRAFT BACK.
Square lines M, C, D, F, E, and B.
From W to 3, in all cases i inch.
From U to^, in all cases 1 inch.
From M to 5, in all cases 2'^ inches.
From H to 12, in all cases 3^ inch.
Line from X to V, from V to 12.
Line from 3 to 4, from 4 tlirough 5.
Sweep from S by 4 to 6.
Sweep by Y from S to 8 for height of back.
Y is in all cases i inch from H.
Line from 6 to 8.
From I, line through S to 9.
From 9 on halves on your stjuare find the difference between
waist (31^^ inches) and seat {'^lYz inches), to 10 for your V.
From 10 to 11 to form a V, opjjosite P, or 1/3 the difference between
C and S.
Find your waist (31)^ inches), by allowing seams from R to S.
From 10 to 6, from 9 to 8, less ^4 of an inch.
88 is in all cases j/^ inch from ^L
From 88 line up to 8 for your seat seam.
Shape your seat seam with stride rule, dropping y% of an inch
from 12, and shape to 99. For accuracy in shaping your bottoms,
locate 22, which is in all cases half the distance between AA and
33 on back.
Always shape from line F to the required amount of bottom
toward 44 on line E. Then trim your outside of back, fold your
back over by placing 55 at 66, and t^t^ at AA, and shape your inside
of back the same as your outside.
Your back now complete, finish trimming same.
Alterations. — When your pants are too full at side of seat,
locate 13, Yz inch from 14, and line from 6 to 13, from 13 to 4, as
per dotted line. When too tight in the seat, line up from G and
shape out to Y and down to i, as per dotted lines.
N. B. — Often an ill-setting pants from the knee down is caused
by not properly shaping your calf.
14 ADJUSTABLE PANTALOON SYSTEM.
Illei|)tpati0n fop ©iagpQFn 3,
REPRESENTS ONE SLIGHTLY KNOCK-KNEED, OR, IT MAY BE
TERMED, THE NATURAL FORM OF MAN.
This draft for front is produced by the same iucasitrements and
applied the same as Diagram i, with \\\& following exceptions, as per
dotted lines:
Find 13, 14^ of an inch from T.
At 13, find ^ of knee (17 inches) to 14.
From 13 to 15 the same.
Find your back the same as instructed in Diagram 2. Study
this draft and you will find it will apply, in "j^ cases out of 100, to the
natural form of limbs.
N. B. — The dotted balance line shows the diagram of leg.
15 IV
AA.
niA.3
13
ML
14 lU D.
JB| E
W. B]
1 6 ADJUSTABLE PANTALOON SYSTEM.
IlI(a§tpatioip for ©iagi^am 4,
REPRESENTS ONE EXTREMELY KNOCK-KNEED.
This draft for front is produced by the same lucasiircmeiiis ami
applied the same as Diagram i, with the fol/ojaiiig exceptions, as per
dotted lines:
Point off i6, ^ inch from T.
From 1 6 to 17 find ]^ your knee (17 inches).
From 16 to 18 the same.
Shape your front, as per dotted lines.
Your back is produced in the same way as Diagram 2.
You will find this draft of great value for one extremely knock-
kneed.
N. B. — The dotted line shows the diagram of leg.
DIA.4:
16j .T
17
Ak
M-
W B
ADJUSTABLE PANTALOON SYSTEM.
lllcagtFatiorp fop ©iagparrp §.
REPRESENTS ONE SLIGHTLY BOW-LEGGED.
This draft for front is produced by the same ineasuremoits and
applied the same as Diagram i, with the following exceptions, as per
dotted lines:
From T to 19, ]â– { of an inch.
Find ]^ of knee (17 inches), from 19 to 20. From 19 to 21 the
same. The back is produced the same as in Diagram 2.
I have found this draft of great value to me, as it places ease on
the calves, and clea?is the drags from knee to stride.
Study the above and you will find my theory correct.
N. B. — Note balance line as per dotted line.
ADJUSTABLE PANTALOON SYSTEM.
IlIaittFation foF ©iagpam G.
REPRESENTS A DRAFT FOR ONE EXTREMELY BOW-LEGGED.
This draft is produced and applied the same as instructed in
Diagram i, with the following instructions, as per dotted lines :
Line from W to M.
Find the half of knee, from 22 to 23.
Shape from X to 23.
From 23 to H.
This Diagram represents Illustration g in my circular. This
also represents a half-and-half dress.
From|*Jto 2}Z lines, represents ^ of an inch for ease on tes-
ticle. To prove this draft, the heavy lines show his limbs clothed
with a 16-inch knee.
Find same from 22 to 24.
The back is produced same as Diagram 2.
Please note shape of balance line, showing the diagram of his
leg with a 16-inch knee.
N. B. — Often when making your draft you will be astonished at
the looks of it, but you may depend on it, the result being a source
of pleasure to yourself and to your customers.
ADJUSTABLE PANTALOON SYSTEM.
IIIaBtpatior^ foF ©lagpaiY) 7.
FOR THE CORPULENT FORM.
To draft the front, proceed the same as instructed in Diagram i.
You will observe the ft>r>n of limbs at the time you are taking
the measurement.
Be careful and locate your cxtretne point of abdomen, this being
the most essential measurement for the corpulent form.
This measurement should be taken tight at the extreme point of
abdomen.
This draft represents the same measurement as Illustration g
on my circular.
His draft for limbs calling for the same form as given in Dia-
gram 3.
Reduce from R to 66 for the corpulent form, ]-^ of an inch,
and shape frojn 9 to 66 as diagram.
The dotted lines show his draft.
You will find this a favorite draft for removing all drags from
the crotch to knee.
N. B. — For the corpulent form, the Adjustable Pantaloon System
is reliable in every detail, as my measurements taken find all parts
of the form.
24 ADJUSTABLE PANTALOON SYS'l EM.
Illti^tFatlon foF> ©iagpam 8
VALUABLE HINTS ON SHAPING PANTALOONS CUT BY THE
ADJUSTABLE PANTALOON SYSTEM.
All former works treat on stretching Iierc and there, and to
stretch the seat seam after made up.
Remember, I do no stretching in any one part, except the seat
seam, this being done before you put in your first shrink.
In order to do this accurately, I Imste it up and stretch it. This
is done so the jour, will find no trouble in the joining of same.
Then shrink the back as follows : Bring knee notches on back
together. Shape from opposite C, at knee notch (your calf), to D.
At D, hug your heel at bottom to H. Then shrink in the fullness
from V to knee notch, opposite C. Shape from knee notch to i,
drawing your balance line at W i inch back. Now shrink in all
fullness from knee opposite C to E, on to F, your back being
complete in the first shrink.
Shrink your front. Take your fore-part and shrink from A to
V>, so that from i to X is perfectly straight. From B, shape your
bottoms of front to compare with the shrink of back from X to V.
Then shrink in all fullness from G to A.
This completes the front, except your dress.
Shrink in your dress 6 inches down from i, to compare with
the undressed side, at the same time shortening this 6 inches % of
an inch with your iron.
As this point is }^ of an inch longer than said point on the
imdressed side, this is done to place ease on the testicle.
Your second shrink should be completed by having the seam
shrunk perfectly straight from i to knee notch C, and from your
back shrink on to V. Then remove all fullness from G to L.
I have found great difference in the jours. sha])ing pantaloons.
On this art I let go of my iron to no one. The work on my circular
will prove the same.
I hope these few remarks may prove beneficial to your jours.
N. B. — See that your jours.' tape-lines compare with yours.
Have them practice the above, and you will be pleased with the
result.
26 ADJUSTABLE PANTALOON SYSTEM.
y^lteFafcioni).
If you should find your stride or thigh measurements too tight,
let out from i to 12 on the back.
If the leg is too tight, let out from the knee up to 12.
If properly cut, adjusted, and receive proper care in makiii;^ up,
you will hav^e no other alterations.
Always leave an outlet on the inside of back, from X to 12.
The seat, from 12 taper to 99, allowing one inch outlet up to
waist.
Should your pants catch in the crotch, or bind on the ihi^^h,
when walking, you have cut them too fu// a.i the front of abdomen:
or, if point Q is not properly located, you will observe that this will
allow point K to hug the testicles too tight, and this is what causes
these faults.
When your pants drag in the seat, you have not taken your waist
measure solid enough, or your seat seam is too straight.
To remove this, clean out enough to clean seat from 12 to 99;
or, in some cases, you may have height of back too high; if so,
remove from 6 to 8 the required amount.
My scale of Actual Thigh Measurement will work accurately in
gg cases out of 100.
SEAT MEASUREMENTS — ^SMALLEST THIGH MEASUREMENTS.
(For Even Numbers.)
32 .... 18 48 .... 28
34 • • • 19^ 50 • • • ^^yi
36 . . . . 2014 52 . . . . 3o>4
38 . . . 21^ 54 ... • 31^
40 .... 23 56 .... 33
42 . . . 2414: 58 . . . 3414:
44 . . . . 25>^ 60 ... . 35^
46 . . . 26^
(For Uneven Numbers.)
Seat 2>l, 35, 37, 39, 41, 43, 45, 47, 49, 51, 53, 55, 57, 59.
You should always divide the thigh measurements for the
uneven numbers, half the distance between the even numbers, or
allow one-sixteenth of an inch.
ADJUSIABLE PANTALOON SYSTEM. 27
Index to (§Gji,terrp.
Introduction, .......... c
How to Take a Measurement, ...... 6
Preparing of Draft, ........ 7
Preparing of the Cloth, ....... 8
At the Cutting-Table, ■•...... n
How to Cut Forepart for one Straight-Legged, ... 10
Diagram i, of Front Straiglit Leg, n
To Draft Back for all Drafts, 12
Diagram 2, of Back for all drafts, i^
How to Draft Front for one Slightly Knock- Kneed, . . 14
Diagram 3, for one Slightly Knock-Kneed, . . . -15
How to Draft Front for one Extremely Knock-Kneed, . 16
Diagram 4, for one Extremely Knock-Kneed, . . . -17
How to Draft Front for one Slightly Bow- Legged, . . 18
Diagram 5, for one Slightly Bovv-Legged, . . . -19
How to Draft Front for one Extremely Bow-Legged, . . 20
Diagram 6, for one Extremely Bow-Legged, . . . .21
How to Draft Front for the Corpulent Form, . . . 22
Diagram 7, for the Corpulent Form, 23
The Shaping of Pantaloons in the Workshop, ... 24
Diagram 8, Shaping of Pantaloons in the Workshop, . -25
Alterations, ......... 26