the adjacent parts of the city. Frequent measures have been
taken to have the magazines removed. That of the Navy will
be transferred to its new site as soon as the buildings are
ready for use. The Army magazines will doubtless speedily
follow.



12



SECTION I Y.

PliACES OF GENERAL INTEREST,




SMITHSOKIAIsr IXSTITUTIOX.

k^nf^^^^HE Smithsonian Institution (opeii daily ^ except

^.. ^ ^y'f^ Sunday^ from 9 a. m. to 4 p. m.) occupies a iin6

site S. of Pennsylvania av., and raaj^ be conveniently

reached by 10th st. W.. the centre of the IST. front

of the building facing that street .

G-rounds. — The whole area of what are now desig-
nated the Smithsonian Grounds — that is, from 7th to 12th st.
and between B sts. IS", and S., covers o2J acres. The Smith-
sonian grounds proper, and which were set apart for the In-
stitution in 1846, consist of 20 a., situated in the SW. corner
of the larger reservation. At first the charge of the Smith-
sonian grounds proper was under the Institution. About 15
years ago, however, Congress resumed their supervision.
They were then thrown into the extensive and beautiful res-
ervation which now surrounds the Institution building.

The grounds were designed and partially laid outby the
distinguished horticulturist and landscape gardener, Andrew
Jackson Downing, whose death occurred while in the prose-
cution of his plans. They are arranged with lawns, groves,
drives, and footways, and are jDlanted with 150 species of
trees and shrubs, chiefly American. In the E. portion of the
grounds, 'N. of the E. wing of the building, is a imse of ex-
quisite beauty, designed by Calvert Yaux, of jSTewburi!,-, IST.
Y., executed by Eobert Launitz, sculptor, of jSTew York,
and erected by the American Pomological Society to the
memory of Downing. The funds were supplied by friends of
the deceased. The principal design of the monument con-
r.ists of a large vase of antique pattern, worked in Italian
marble, and resting cii a pedestal of the same material. The
v^oe is 4 ft. high and 3 ft. in diameter at the upper rim. The
body is ornamented witli arabesque. Acanthus leaves sur-
round the lower part. The handles rest on the heads of satyrs,
gods of groves and woods, and the pedestal on a carved base

(178



SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION.



179



surrounded with a cornice. On each side is a deep panel,
relieved by carved mouldings. In each is an appropriate in-
scription. That facing the N. reads, ''This vase was erected
by his friends in memory of Andrew Jackson Downing, who
died July 28, 1852, aged thirty-seven years. He was born
and lived and died on the Hudson river." On the base of
the pedestal are the words, "This memorial was erected
under a resolution passed at Philadelphia, in September,
18o2, by the American Pomological Society, of which :Mr.
Downing was one of the orighial founders. Marshall P.
VYilder, President. ' ' The whole monument, with the granite
plinth, is 9 J ft. high, and cost $1,600.

Description — The style of architecture of the Smithsonian
Building, designed by James Kenwick, Jr., of N". Y., is ITor-
raan, and chronologicaUy belongs to the end of the 12tr cen-
tmy, representing tlie rounded at the time of merging into the
Gothic. It is the fii*st unecclesiastical structm-e of that period
ever built in the United States. The building compares favor-




SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION.



ably with the best examples of the styles, variously called the

^orman, tha Lombard, the Romanesque, and the Byzantine.

Ihe semi-cu-cmararch still is used throughout in doors, win-
^ , dows, and other openings. The windows are mthout elabo-
. rately traceried heads. The weather mouldings consist of

corbel coui'oes v/ith bold projections. It has towers of various



180 SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION.

sizes and shapes. The main entrance from the ^., sheltered
by a carriage porch, is between two towers of beautifully
symmetrical proportions and unequal height. The general
design consists of a main centre building, two stories high and
two wings of a single story, connected by intervening ranges,
each having a cloister on the N". with open stone screen. In
the centre of the l!^. side of the main building are two towers,
the higher one J4o ft. On the S. isa single massive tower 37
ft. square, including the buttress, and 91 ft. high. On the
KE. corner is a double campanile 17 ft. square and 117 ft. to
the top of its finial. At the SW. corner is an octagonal tower
finished with open work in the upper portions. At the SW.
and ISTW. corners are two smaller towers. There are 9 tow-
ers in all, including the small ones at each wing.

The extreme length of the building from E . to W., includ-
ing the porch of the E. wing, is 447 ft. The breadth of the
centre of the main building and towers, including carriage
porch, is 160 ft. The E. wing is 82 by 52 ft., and 42| ft. high
to the top of its battlement. The W. wing, inclusive of its
projecting apsis, is 84 by 40 ft., and 38 ft. high. Each con-
necting range, inclusive of cloister, is 60 by 49 ft. The main
building is 205 by 57 ft, and to the top of the corbel com'ses
58 ft. high.

The material used is a variety of freestone found in the new
red sandstone formation, about 23 m. distant from Washing-
ton, in the vicinity of the Point where Seneca creek empties
into the Potomac river. It is the same, though brought from
a different locality, as that used in the construction of Trinity
church of JSTew York city. The building throughout is con-
structed in the most dm^able manner. The foundation walls
vary from 12 to 8 ft. at the base to 5 ft. at the top. The walls
of the main building, above the water table, are 2 J ft. for the
first story, and 2 ft. for the second, exclusive of "buttresses,
corbel courses, and other exterior projections, and exclusive
of the interior lining of brick. The walls of the wings are 2
ft. thick. Groined arches are turned under the central, the
campanile, and octagonal tow^ers, and towers of the W. wing.
The copings, cornices, battlements, window jambs, muUions,
sills, and all stone work, is held by iron clamps leaded. The
face of the bmlding is finished in ashlar, laid in com'ses 10 to
15 in. in height, and with an average bed of 9 in. The whole
of the centre building is fireproof, and the two wings and
ranges practically so. The roofs are of slate laid on iron.

The Smithsonian Institution proper has two chief lines of
action : I. To stimulate the preparation of original works in
general and special science: to publish and to distribute them
judiciously and promptly to all the scientific centres of the



SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION. 181

world, through a system of international exchanges, now the
most complete on the globe. The Institution also distributes
abroad, free of expense, the publications of scientific and
historical societies wlien sent to them. It has ten agents of
its own, and is in correspondence with 2,400 institutions
abroad. The publications of the Smithsonian are the " Con-
tributions to Knowledge," ^'Miscellaneous," and "Annual
Reports" — tlie latter to Congress.

II. Meteorological investigations. These have been pros-
ecuted over a quarter of a centurj'^, and reports are now re-
ceived from over 600 stations, in all parts of the Western
Hemisphere. The observations relate solely to the general
laws of climatology of the continent. Tlie Institution has
also patronized and aided the cause of science and explora-
tion, both in the efforts of the Government and private indi-
viduals. It has also co-operated witli the other departments
of the Government. Its valuable library has been incorpo-
rated with that of Congress. The extensive herbarium, on
condition of approving tlie botanist in charge, has been
transferred to tlie Department of Agricultm'e, and all the
crania and other osteological specimens to the Army Medical
Museum. In return, from the latter it receives from the
oflacers of the army all collections made in ethnology and in
special branches of natural history.

National Museum, — {Open everyday., except Sunday., from
9 a. m. to 4: p. m.) — This national collection is in the charge of
the Smithsonian Institution, tliough it is supported by the
United States. Its origin was under the act establishing that
Institution, and its head is the Secretary, Professor Joseph
Henry, though the active supervision has been assigned l3y
him to Prof. Spencer F. Baird, Assistant Secretary.

With tlie limited means at command, it was found imprac-
ticable to expect an extensive general museum. The efforts
of the manager of that offshoot of the Institution, therefore,
were directed to the accumulation of material from the Amer-
ican continent. The act of organization contributed, as the
foundation of the museum, the collections of specimens
brought back by the United States exploring expedition to the
Southern Hemisphere, under Captain (Kear Admiral) Charles
Wilkes, originally deposited in the Patent Ofiice. It was trans-
ferred to the Institution in 1858. Since that time the collec-
tion has been increased by the type specimens from upwards
of fifty subsequent expeditions of the General Government,
and contributions resulting from the operations of the Insti-
tution, besides a large number of donations from individuals.
The articles represent all parts of the globe and every branch



182 SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION.

of natui-al history. The collection of the larger l!^orth Amer-
ican and European mammals, both skins and skeletons, is the
most complete in the United States. In ethnological speci-
mens of this continent it surpasses anything in the world. In
other respects it ranks favorably mtia the collections of the
Philadelphia Academy of Natural Sciences and the Cambridge
Museum.

The collections of the Museum are undergoing rearrange-
ment, occasioned by the fitting up of the hall on the second
floor. The arrangement contemplated is the exclusive use of
the lower main hall for the zoological department. The Gothic
hall containing ethnological specimens to economical geol-
ogy, and the W. hall to mineralogy and geology. The latter
is now finally arranged. In the space on either side of the
entrance, at the foot of the stairways, will be placed a large
and valuable collection of plaster casts of the food fishes of
the United States, made under the direction of Prof. S. F.
Baird, United States Fish Commissioner. The second floor,
now being fitted with cases, will contain the extraordinarily
large ethnological collection relating to the native tribes of
!N"orth America, ancient and modern, and the rich store of
specimens of the same character, from the Feejee, Samoan,
Viti, and Sandwich Islands, at the time of the visit of the
Wilkes exploring expedition.

Main Hall.— Tliis hall is 200 ft. long, 50 ft. wide, and 25 ft,
high. The ceiling is supported on two rows of columns.
Around the hall, against the railings of the galleries, are the
heads, complete or skeleton, of various larger animals. That
at the W. end is of a bufliilo, an excellent specimen. Opposite;
the entrance is the Register^ in which visitors are requested
to record their names. Kear by, on the r., is a specimen of
the great auk Idlled on the island of Eldey, near Iceland, in
1834, believed to be extinct, not having been seen alive since
1844. Owing to its short wings, it was incapable of flight.
But two other specimens of the bird, and but one other of the
egg^ is in the United States.

Commencing on the 1. of the main entrance, the first case
contains carniverous animals, the next two birds of foreign
countries, two of birds of ISTorth America, and one of foreign
countries. The table cases between contain shells, and the
wall cases skeletons and alcoholic specimens. The table
cases in the centre of the room are filled with a fine collec-
tion of birds' nests and eggs. In the lower part of the first
are specimens of ostrich eggs, and a cast of the egg of the
giant fossil bird of Madagascar. The end wall cases are
empty, but will, in the rearrangement of the museum, be



I



SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION. 183

filled with zoological specimens. In the S. range of cases
the tirst two contain birds of IsTorth America, the next three
of foreign countries, and the last seals, fish, and alligators.
The table cases between are devoted to shells, and those
against the wall to alcoholic specimens. The cases in the
galleries of the E. part of the Hall contain skeletons of birds.

In the W. half of the Hall, resuming the S. range of cases,
the first contains mammals, including a musk ox, female
chimpanzee, and a cast of a gorilla's head, the next two
mammals, and the rest corals. The table cases between ex-
hibit ethnological and those against the wall ethnological
and alcoholic specimens.

In one of the recesses in tlie S. range, in a large jar, is a
specimen of the devilfish from California. When expanded,
it measures 8 ft. in diameter. Its shape is that of a star with
eight iDoints. In another recess on the same side are exhibi-
tions of beaver cuttings.

On the r., entering the main N". door, thefj'st case contains
mammals, embracing the deer and antelope families. Here
are excellent specimens of the Rocky Mountain sheep and
goat. The next embraces birds of IS'orth America, and the
remaining four on the same side birds of foreign countries.
The table cases between contain ethnological and the wall
alcoholic specimens.

The first table case in the centre of the W. portion of the
Hall is devoted to shells above and shells of turtles below.
In the second are ethnological specimens relating to the
American Indians. On the E. end of this case is the head
of a Peruvian chief, compressed by an unknown method,
very rare.

In the gallery cases are birds and ethnological specimens.
Against the W. wall, is a case of fish casts and three of
bu'ds. We here enter the

Gothic Hall. — This Hall receives its name from the style of
architecture used, and contains ethnological specimens and
relics, and other articles of historic interest. The portrait of
Guizot, the French historian and statesman, over the W.
door, was painted by Healy, in Paris, for certain American
residents, who presented it to the N^ational Institute. The
portrait over the E. door represents General Washington,
painted by the elder Peale. The painting w^as slfipped to
Europe and captured by a French privateer,' taken to France,
where it was purchased and retm*ned to the United States,
and ultimately came into the possession of the J^Tational
Institute.

In the N. range are the coUections representing the Ameri-



184 SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION.

can Indians and Esquimaux of Greenland. In the wall case
on the W. is the suit and rifle used by Dr. Kane in his Arctic
exploration ; also the shot gun and rifle used by Captain Hall,
and rifle of Esquimaux Joe.

On the S. are the collections relating to China, Japan, Mus-
cat, and Siam.

In the E. table case are a number of relics and other ob-
jects of historical interest. Among these is a fine collection
of medals awarded to military and naval officers of the Kevo-
lution and subsequent wars ; copies of royal seals of gold and
silver, presented by William Blackmore, of London ; a few
odd specimens of the Denon and American medals destroyed
in the fire at the Library of the United States ; locks of hair
of Presidents of the United States; the razor of Captain
Cook, the navigator; one of the bolts to which Columbus
was chained ; part of the machinery of the first steamboat
built by James Kumsey, of Sheplierdstown, Va., 1786 ; Chi-
nese paper money, Japanese manuscript, an interesting
specimen of handwriting in Greek, arranged m book form ;
and treaties vdth Turkey, Sweden, Spain, Austria, Prussia,
France, Russia, and England, and the seal of the United
States. Among the treaties is the first between France and
the tjnited States, 1778, and Bonaparte, 1st Consul, 1803. In
the same case below is an assortment of old aims from the
Malayan Peninsula and China ; also arms of historical inter-
est.

On the W. table case is a collection illustrating the pre-his-
toric period in Europe, embracing man of the drift, reindeer,
lake dwelling, and shell lieap period, down to that of chipped
and polished stone implements. Among the interesting fea-
tures of this period are specimens relating to the lake-dwell-
ing period in Switzerland, and breccia of the reindeer period
in England ; also, a model of Stonehenge, in that country ;
also, bones from Patagonia, and Indian implements. In the
same case below are a number of relics of the Franklin, Fro-
bisher, Kane, and Hall ISTorth Polar expeditions.

At the end of the hall is an original tablet containing a high
order of Mexican hieroglyphics. Beyond the Gothic is the

West Hall, a fine, well lighted apartment, and assigned to
the mineralogical cabinet of the National Museum, divided
into four sections :

I. Getieral Mineralogical Collection, occupying the S. and
the S. end of the E. walls. This embraces 300 species of
minerals from all parts of the world, and contains many very
beautiful specimens.

II. General Lithological Collection^ occupying the entire



SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION. 185

W. wall, and composed mainly of specimens brought back by
the various Government exploring* expeditions within tlie
United States and W. of the Mississippi river, and also sev-
eral European series.

III. Ore Collection^ on the ^N". end of the E. wall, and em-
bracing ores from a large number of lodes in the Western
States and Territories. It is proposed to obtain for this col-
lection a specimen of eveiy worlvcd lode W. of the Mississippi,
which would then be valuable as a means of comparing ores.

IV. Metallurgical Collection., in the center of the E. wall,
embraces ores, slags, raw and commercial products, present-
ing the various interests of this character in the United
States and foreign countries.

Against the N. wall, E. side, is a case containing an inter-
esting collection of geyserites from the National Park on the
Yellowstone, gathered by the Ha5''den Exploring Expedi-
tion. It is the best and most valuable series of tlie kind in
existence. At the S. end of the hall, the table case contains
the Polaris Collection., made by Dr. Emil Bessels during the
United States ISTorth Polar Expedition, 1870-73. All the
specimens were gatliered above 80° N". latitude. The ham-
mer and piece of powder canister belonged to Capt. Pany's
Expedition in 1821. He lost his ships on Fury Beach. The
next table case on the N". contains stalactites and a very fine
specimen of sulphur from Sicily. The third table contains
minerals from different foreign countries.

In the centre of the hall is a large group of mineral speci-
mens, including the Irwin-ainsa Meteorite., from Tucson, Ari-
zona, weighing 1,400 lbs. It is of ring shape, and measures
49 in. in exterior diameter, and 27 in. in opening. The thickest
part is 17 in. wide. A large mass of native copper from On-
tonagon, Lake Superior, in early days used by the Indians
ag a sacrificial altar, and estimated to weigh over 3,000 lbs.
The Couch Meteorite., found by Lieut. D. K. Couch, United
States Army, in Coahuila, Northern Mexico, and weighing
250 lbs. It was used as an anvil. The rest of the same
gi'oup is made up of coals, fossil woods from the Rocky
Mountains, cinnabar from California, and stalactites and
other interesting specimens from difi'erent parts.

A card explaining the system of labelling will be found in
the hall. The arrangement of the collection was made by
Dr. F. M. Endlich, of Penn., mineralogist of the Institution.

Returning to the main hall, opposite the main N. entrance,
is the

S. Vestibule, which contains a number of foreign anti-
quities. In the centre is the marble Sarcophagus, brought



186 SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION.

to the United States on the frigate Constitution by Commo-
dore Jesse D. Elliott, in 1839, from Beirut, Syria. It was
originally the repository of the remains of the Koman Em-
peror Alexander Severus. The Sarcophagus was intended
for the tomb of General Andrew Jackson, and for that pur-
pose it was otfered in 1845 by Commodore Elliott, but the
G-eneral replied: "I cannot consent that my mortal body
shall be laid in a repository prepared for an emperor or a
king; my republican feelings and principles forbid it ; the
simplicity of our system of government forbids it. Every
monument erected to perpetuate the memory of our heroes
and statesmen ought to bear evidence of the ecoBomj^^and sim-
plicity of our republican institutions, and the plainness of our
republican citizens, who are the sovereigns of our glorious
Union, and whose virtue is to perpetuate it."

The small marble tablet is from the temple erected by
Miltiades on the plains of Marathon, in honor of his victory
over the Persians, 490 B. C.

In the collection of idols from Central America, the largest,
carved in black basalt, and that with a Sphinx-like head-dress,
are from the island of Momotombita, in Lake Managua. One
of the others was used by the Indians of the Pueblo of Sub-
tiava, and two are from the island of Zapatero, in Lake
ISTicaraugua, once the site of the greatest of all the temples
of the aboriginal people. There are also a cast of an ancient
carved stone at Palenque Chiapas, Mexico, the hieroglyphics
of which have not yet been fully read, and a plank and speci-
men of bark from the giant redwood tree of California. The
plank is 12 ft. long and 6 J ft. wide.

Leaving the main hall by the jN". door, the double flight of
steps lead to the Ethnological Hall, on the second floor, being
fitted up with walnut cases for the display of the Ethnologi-
cal collections of the museum. This hall is of the same di-
mensions as that on the first floor. In the centre is a cast of
the extinct megatherium, found at Buenos Ayres, the largest
type of the sloth family of the pre-historic age. It is sur-
rounded by an iron railing with cappings of the existing
types of the same family. On the E. is a cast of a glypto-
don, now extinct, the largest representative of the armadillo
family. In a corresponding position on the W. is the cast of
a giant turtle found in the JHimalaya mountains. In the hall,
temporarily, are specimens of the extinct Irish elk, a skeleton,
and a cast of the animal restored, a buffalo and two skeletons,
a moose and one skeleton, a tapir and two skeletons, a gnu,
deer, and reindeer, and skeletons of a camel and Eocky-
mountain sheep. Also other animals, and varieties of sharks,
sword and torpedo fish, and walrus. Also two kyacks.



SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION. 187

Secretaries of the Smitlisonion Institution. — 1846, Joseph
Heniy.

History. — The original fund which led to the foundation
of the Smithsonian Institution was the bequest of James
Smithson, of England, amounting to 8515,169. The founder
belonged to one of the, best families of England. He was
the smi of Hugh, first Duke of Northumberland, and Eliza-
beth, heiress of Hungerfords of Aodley and niece of Charles
the Proud, Duke of Somerset. He was a native of London,
was educated at Oxford, and took an honorary degree there
in 1786. At the university he was known as James Lewis
Macie, and a few years after leaving took that of Smithson,
the family name of the ]!^orthumberlands. His life was
mostly spent on the continent of Europe, where he died at
Genoa in 1828. He was particularly known to the scientific
world as a skillful cliemist, mineralogist, and geologist, on
each of which subjects he contributed valuable papers. He
was never married, and hence devoted his enth-e life to the
cultivation of his taste for laiowledge. He held a high ap-
preciation of mental endowments, usefully applied, and
claimed that though in his veins coursed the best blood of
England his name would outlive that of his ancestors, wlio
possessed inherited titles and honors only. It is stated that
at one time he contemplated leaving his money to the Royal
Society of London, but owing to a disagreement vested it in
his nephew, Henry James Hungerford, for life, after which
it was to go to the United States of America ^'' to found., at
Washington^ under the name of the Smithsonian Institution^
an establishment for the increase and diffusion of knowledge
among men.'''' The Government of the United States, by act
of Congress of July 1, 1836, accepted the bequest. In the
same' year Richard Rush, of Pennsylvania, who had been
Minister of the United States at the court of King George
rV, from- 1817 to 1825, was designated Commissioner to as-
sert and prosecute the claim of tlie United States to the