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De B. Randolph (De Benneville Randolph) Keim.

Washington and its environs: an illustrated descriptive and historical hand-book to the capital of the United States of America

. (page 26 of 28)

The buildings stand on Lincoln's Hill, so-called from the
fort of that name in the defenses of Washington during the
rebellion, and which crowned the hill. They are 230 ft.
above the Anacostia, which runs in the rear, and command
a "view of four railroads, portions of Washington, the National
Insane Asylum, the Soldiers' Home, Bladensburg, the Mary-
land State Agricultural School, and a vast sweep of country
into Maryland and Virginia.

The main building is occupied by the superintendent,
boys' dining room, chapel, librar5^ and reflecting room. The
reception room for strangers is on the 1. of the main entrance.
On either side of the main building are two detached wings,
occupied by the assistants, and as school and dormitories.
The boys di\'ide their time in the school and shops. The
boys are kept till reformed or their majority. The buildings
and grounds will be greatly improved.

Zoological Society was incorporated in 1870, with authority
to import animals free of duty, and granting the free use of
water from the Aqueduct. The site secm-ed for the purpose
comprises 20 a., lies about \ m. SE. of the E. terminus of
the Columbia horse raihoay., and extends to the Anacostia.
On the ground is Gibson's spring, which will be converted
into fish ponds. During the rebellion, 1861-"'65, a pipe from
this spring supplied the cavalry and infantry camps estab-
lished in the adjacent valley and on the neighboring hills.

Government Hospital for the Insane, {visiting days, Wednes-
days, from 2 to Q p. m.) This institution, on the S. bank of



228 ALEXANDRIA.

the Anacostia, is accessible from the N'avy-yard terminus of
tlie Pennsylvania av. street cars^ across the bridge at the foot
of 11th St. E., and by the high road ascending the hill towards
the r., which passes the gate. The village at the S. end of
the bridge is known as Uniontown. Tlie distance from the
horse cars to the Asjdum is about 2 m. The institution is
for the use of the army and navy and District of Columbia,
and embraces indigent and independent patients. The gen-
eral supervision is under the Secretary of the Interior, and
it is supported by the ^^Tational Government. The home
tract, 185 a., is inclosed by a wall 9 ft. high. Subsequent
additions, however, have increased the estate to 419 a., which
is cultivated for the benefit of the institution, and which fur-
nishes occupation for many of the patients. The commodious
structure is of brick, occupies the crest of the range of hills
overlooking the mouth of the Anacostia, and consists of a
centre, with connecting ranges and receding wings, with
buttresses, iron window hoods, and an embattled parapet.
The centre is four stories, and the wings three and four
stories. The building is 750 ft. long. There are accommo-
dations for 550 patients, though the number generally ex-
ceeds 600. The W. wing is devoted to males and the E. to
females. The centre contains the residence of the superin-
tendent and staff officers, dispensary, and chapel. There
are six billiard tables for patients. In the basement are the
kitchen, store-rooms, &c. There are two buildings in the
rear for colored patients; also gas works, machine shops,
barn, and stables. The institution was opened in 1855.
Prior to that time the insane under the care of the Govern-
ment were sent to Baltimore.

Alexandria. — This city, originally called Bellhaven, stands
m Vu'ginia, on the r. bank of the Potomac river, at the con-
fluence of that stream and Hunting Creek, 7 m. S. of Wash-
ington. The boats of the Washington and Alexandria ferry,
from the foot of 7th street W., reached by liorse cars^ run
every hour from 6 a. m. to 7 p. m., on Sunday from 9 a. m.
Single fare 15 cts., round trip 25 cts. The steam cars leave
at the same intervals from 6 a. m. to 8 p. m. from the depot
on 6th St., S. of Pennsylvania av. The city is picturesquely
situated on the side of a range of low hills, and is surrounded
by a fertile and well-cultivated country. The- town was
founded in 1748. In 1755 five colonial governors met here in
connection with Braddock's expedition, which started here.
In the earlj'' colonial days it was the rival of Baltimore in
commerce, but superior advantages and other facilities at-
tractive of trade soon advanced the metropolis of Maryland



ALEXANDRIA. 229

beyond the successful rivalry of the quamt Virginia town on
the Potomac.

During the Ke volution it was a point of great strategic im-
portance. The British General Gage, in 1776, from Pitts-
burg, in co-operation with Earl Dunmore's fleet fi'om the
sea, planned an attack on the town, designing, by holding
this position, to cut off communication between the X. and
S. armies. The expedition, however, was not carried out.
Washington always, took a great interest in the welfare of
the place. Among other evidences of this affection he be-
queathed £1,000 for the benefit of a free school here.

During the invasion of the Britisli, on Aug. 28, 1814, after
Fort Warburton, (Washington,) below, had been blown up
and abandoned without firing a gun, the town surrendered to
the British squadron. Five days after the enemy's vessels
left with 16,000 bbls. of flom-, 1,000 hhds. of tobacco, and
other property, including 3 ships and some river craft.

The city and countj^ were included in the original survey
of the District of Columbia, but in 1846, with all that part
on the W. side of the Potomac, was retroceded to Vh-ginia.

About 1 m. SE. of the city, on the point of a small pen-
insula formed by the junction of Hunting creek and the
Potomac, is the initial point oi the original boundaries of the
District of Columbia.

In the court of the Mansion House, on Fairfax st., is an old
structure known as Washington'' s Headquarters^ having been
occupied, it is said, by the General when in Alexandria. At
the intersection of Washington and Cameron sts. is Christ
Episcopal Churchy commenced in 1765 and finished in 1773,
built of bricks imported from England. The interior has
been renovated of late years ; though some of the wood-work
about the chancel is old. The principal interest is associated
with the fact that Washington was a member of the vestry of
this church. His pew wasNo. 59, on the 1. of the 1. aisle. A
little back is pew No. 46, used by Kobert E. Lee, General of
the Confederate forces, who came here from Arlington to
worship. Marble tablets on the 1. and r. of the chancel have
been f»laced in the walls to their memory. In the church-
yard the oldest tombstone is 1771. The city hall, market-
house, and masonic hall occupy a fine building. Near the
city is a National Cemetery^ which contains the remains of
3,635 soldiers of the rebellion.

A branch of the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal connects the
city with Georgetown. The river in front is 1 m. wide. The
shipping of the place amounts to about 182 vessels; sail,
steam, and unrigged, 8,210 tons. The principal exports are
tobacco, corn, and coal. It also has railroad communication



230



MOUNT VERNON.



with the N. and S. A new line, to connect with the Balti-
more and Ohio Kailroad at Bladensburg, is now being built,
and will cross the Potomac at this point. The population is
13,570.

Mount Vernon, steamer daily, except Sunday, at 10 a. in.,
from the foot of 7th st. W., reached
hy horse-cars, fare $1.50 round trip,
to include admission to the grounds.
Distance, 15 m. Return 4 p. m.

Leaving the wharf, the boat runs
close to the shore, and along the
Ai'senal grounds, at the foot of
which the Anacostia enters the Po-
tomac. The village on the r. is
XJniontown, and on the hill is the
IS'ational Insane Asylum. On the
1. is the Naw Yard. On the S.
point of the river is Giesboro'. Dur-
ing tlie rebellion a large number of
cavalry horses were kept here for
the sujDply of the army. During a
stampede on one occasion over 1000
were drowned in the river. The
steamer now directs her course to-
wards Alexandria, 6 m. below. Af-
ter leaving Alexandria, the steamer
passes Jones's point on the r. A
lighthouse stands on the point at
the location of the initial stone of the
THE MANSION. boundarlcs of the District, planted

in 1791. The lines extend KE. and NW. Hunting creek
here enters the Potomac. The steamer next touches at
Fort Foote, an earthwork on the Maryland shore. Broad
creek enters below. The next landing is at Foi^t Washington,
on the same side. This is an old work, mounting guns in
casemate and barbette. On the high ground opposite the
first view of the home of Washington may be had. The
road from the wharf leads to the vault within which is the
marble sarcophagus containing the remains of General George
Washington. By the side is another with the simple inscrip-
tion, Martha, the consort of Washington, who died May 21,
1801, aged 71 years. The obelisk on the r. approaching is to
Bushrod Washington, Associate Justice of the Supreme Coiu-t
of the United States, a nephew of General Washington, and
to whom Mount Vernon was bequeathed, died 1829. That
on the 1. is to John Augustine Washington, to whom Mount




MOUNT VERNON.



231



Vernon was bequeathed by Judge Busluod Washington, died
1832. The path to the r. leads towards tlie mansion. On
the 1. is the vault in which the remains of Washington were
first placed.

The Mansion fronts ISTW., the rear looking toward the river.
It is of ^yood, cut in imitation of stone, and 9G ft. in length,
surmounted by a cupola. The centre was built by Lawrence
Washington, brother to the General ; the wings were added
by the General. It is named after Admiral Vernon, in whose
expedition Lawrence Washington served. The house and
grounds, 6 a., as far as practicable, are as left by Washing-
ton.

The Mount Vernon Ladies'' Association of the Union^ incor-
porated in 1856, purchased the mansion and contiguous

grounds. In the hall is the key to
tlie Bastile, presented to Washing-
ton by Lafayette after the destruc-
tion of that French prison, 1789.
In the E. parlor are interesting
relics of Washington — a dress,
sword, spy-glass, water buckets,
tripod. In the dining hall are
portraits of Washington in 1786, a
copy from Trumbull, and a copy
from Stuart, 1795. The mantel
was carved in Italy and presented.
In this room is the great painting
of Washington hcfore Yorktown^ by
Rembrandt Peale. He is repre-
sented as accompanied by Generals
Lafayette, Hamilton, Knox, Lin-
coln, and Rochambeau, and giving
orders to commence the entrench-
ments before Yorkto\\ai. In the
W, parlor is an old painting repre-
senting the attack on Carthagena,
Admiral Vernon commanding,
1741, and Washington's liolsters
and camp equipage, also a globe.
GRAVE or WASHINGTON. jn thc scconcl story, at the head of
the stairs, is Lafayette^s room. The room in which Wasli-
ington died, December 14, 1799, is at the S. end of the build-
ing on this floor. It is a small apartment. The bed is that
on which he rested. There is a fine \iew of the surround-
ing country from the cupola. On the r. of the mansion
facing tlie lawn are the servants' hall, gardener's lodge, a
modern building, and the spinning and w^eaving house.' On'




232 DEFENSES OF WASHINGTON.

tbe same side is the garden laid out by Washington. On the
]*^. side are conservatories which replaced the old ones con-
sumed by fire. The ruins of the old servants' quarters are
near by. On the opposite side of the lawn are the family
kitchen, butler's house, smoke house, and laundry, and in
the rear of all the stables. On the lawn are several ash and
and a magnolia tree planted by Washington.

Defenses of Washington.— The inauguration of actual hos-
tilities by the bombardment of Fort Sumter, April 12, 13,
1861, warned the National Government of the necessity of
measures of protection. One of the first thoughts w^as the
security of the Nation's Capital. The hastily-improvised first
defensive preparations, after some squeamish hesitation about
invading a State, were seconded by occupying the S. sliore of
the Potomac, and liolding tlie debouches into Virginia. This
was necessitated by the proximity of Arlington Heiglits, from
which the enemy's artillery could shell the city. On the night
of May 23, 1861, the army, in three columns, crossed the
Potomac, one, under Major Wood, by the Georgetown Aque-
duct; another, under Major (General) Heintzelman, by the
Long Bridge; and tlie tliird. imder Colonel Ellsworth, by
water to Alexandria. Fort Corcoran, a tete-de-pont, was
commenced before dajdight, and, with its auxiliary works,
Forts Bennett and Haggerty and rifle trenches, around the
head of the Aqueduct, Forts Runyon, on the lowland — a tete-
de-pont — and Albany, on Arlington Heights, covering our
debouches from the Long Bridge, and Fort Ellsworth, on
Shuter's Hill, back of Alexandria, formed- the basis of the
hue S. of the Potomac. By the time of tlie advance of
McDowell's army, seven weeks, these works were nearly
completed.

The Bull Run disaster made it apparent that a protracted
wixv was inevitable. The Heights of Arlington were elfect-
ivelj^ fortified by intermediate works, and, with Fort Run-
yon, formed a '"'' couronne^^^ covering the bridge and heights.
These works were preliminary and auxiliary to that line of
impregnable fortifications which later encircled the Capital.
The system of "works, constituting and apiDropriately desig-
nated the Defenses of WasJiington, were divided into four
groups. 1. Those S. of the Potomac^ commencing with Fort
Lyon, below Alexandiia, and terminating with Fort De-
Kalb, (Strong,) opposite Georgetown. 2. Those of the Chain
Bridge. 3. Those N. of the Potomac,, between that river
and the Anacostia, commencing with Fort Sumner and ter-
minating with Fort Lincoln. 4. Those S. of the Anacostia,^
commeiichig with Fort Mahan and terminating witli Fort



DEFENSES OF WASHINGTON. 233

Greble, nearly opposite Alexandria. The perimeter, from
Fort Lj^on to Fort Greble, was 33 m., and, including- the in-
terval across the Potomac, betAveen Greble and l-ivon, a total
of 37 m. At the close of hostilities, in April, 1865, the De-
fenses consisted of 68 inclosed forts and batteries and em-
placements, for 1,120 gnus, 807 of -vvhich, and 98 mortars,
were actually mounted : 93 unarmed batteries for field guns,
having 401 emplacements, and 20 m. of rifle-trenches, and 3
block houses. There were also 32 m. of specially-constructed
military roads.

In 1864 the garrisons S. of the Potomac consisted of one
division, under General DeKussy, four brigades, under
Colonels Tidball, Tannatt, Abbott, and Schirmer — 11,011
men ; IST. of the Potomac, one division, under Lieutenant
Colonel Haskin, aid-de-camp, with three brigades, under
Colonels Morris, Gibson, and Piper — 18,863 men. To pre-
vent a sudden dash, the minor roads were obstructed by
abattis and stockades. The fords of the Potomac above and
the S. front were picketed with cavahy. An infantrj' divis-
ion laj' towards Bull Run, and infantry pickets were stationed
on the ]Sr. front. A provost guard of 1,776 men, under General
Martindale, were on duty in Washington, and 1,090 men,
under General Slough, in Alexandria. At the artillerj^ depot
at Camp Barry were 2,000 men and 17 batteries.

Tlie garrisons varied in numbers, yet the over-sensitiveness
of the Government, respecting- the safety of the Capital, con-
stantly required the presence of a large force. The exigen-
cies of the service in the field, however, on seA^eral occasions
necessitated a reduction.

The efforts of Gen. Grant, in 1864, to overwhelm Lee had
caused the withdrawal of the well-trained artillerists, and
their places were filled by new levies. As an offset to the
vigorous movements of the Army of the Potomac, Early
made his demonstration upon AVashington. A brisk engage-
ment took place at Rockville, 16 m. from Washington. 'On
July 11, with 20,000 men, he appeared before Fort Stevens,
on the 7th-st. road. The pickets retired, and the guns of
Fort Stevens, Slocum, and DeRussy opened and checked the
enemy, who retired the following niglit.

The ruins of the now dismantled a"iid deserted Defenses of
Washington may yet be seen on almost every eminence in
the vicinity of the city. During their use they accomplished
an important work. They saved the nation from f urtlier ca-
lamities after Bull Run, when the enemy was in sight on
Munson Hill, and from attack after the failures of ^SlcClel-
Jan's campaign against Richmond, and the retreat of Pope,
in 1862. It is to be hoped the hand of fratricidal strife may
never again revive the sad work.



SECTION yi.

HISTORY OF WASHINGTON,




:.^^^HE first attempt to explore the Chesapeake and
T^f^ its tributaries was made in 1608, by Captain John
Smith, from the Jamestown settlement. He left an
interesting narrative of his discoveries. He speaks
of the "Patawomeke " as 6 or 7 m. in breadth, and
navigable 140 m. The Indian name was Cohongu-
roton, or river of swans. The shores of the great baj^ and
river had a large aboriginal population, not less than forty
tribes, members of the numerous and warlike Algonquin
family, who lived by fishing, the cultivation of maize, and
warring upon their neighbors. The point of the tongue of
land now occupied by the Arsenal was the seat of the council
fire. The Manahoacks occupied the lands between the rivers,
but about 1669, after a severe war with the Powhatans, were
overcome, and fled to the West, where they joined the Tus-
caroras.

In 1634. Henry Fleet, with a party of Calvert's settlers, vis-
ited the falls of the Potomac. In 1663, a tract of land 400 a.,
called Room, (Rome,) was laid out for Francis Pope, gentle-
man, on the east side of the Anacostian river, and to the
mouth of the Tiber. Another tract, of 500 a., for Captain
Robert Troop, called Scotland Yard, was laid out adjoining
on the same date. The lands of the western portion of the
city, called "The Widow's Mite," 600 a., were laid out in
1681 for William Langworth. All were in Charles county,
province of Maryland.

In 1790-'91, Daniel Carroll owned the lands on the Ana-
costia, Notley Young, in the forks of the river and to the
northward, and David Burns on the west, towards George-
town. On the bank of the river, east of the Observatory,
was a settlement called Hamburg, previously Funkstown.
On the Anacostia, a short distance above the Arsenal, was
Carrollsburg. The arable lands were tilled, and produced
wheat, tobacco, and maize.

On April 30, 1783, nineteen days after the proclamation of

(234)



HISTORY OF WASHINGTON. 235

a cessation of hostilities between the late British Colonies in
North America and the motlier country, tlie subject of a per-
manent capital for the general government of the United
States of America was incidentally alluded to in Congress.
In March, 17S3, tlie legislature of New York offered to cede
the town of Kingston as a place of permanent meeting.
Shortly after, Maryland tendered Annapolis for the same
purpose ; also $180,000 if selected.

A proposition by a prominent gentleman was the location
of tlio capital, for a term of thirteen years, at some of the
growing western settlements, such as Detroit, Louisville,
Kaskaskia, St. Vincent's, and Sandusky; stating that "an
amazing value would be added to that important territory ; "
that it would "accelerate the rapidity of its settlement and
population," and at about twelve cents an acre would extin-
guish the national debt ; that Congress should assume plen-
ary jurisdiction over a compass of twenty miles square ; should
form a government "on the most perfect plan of modern re-
finement ; " in place of certificates, should award the lands in
the vicinity "to those brave officers and men who served in
the lute glorious war." These, Spartan-like, it was expected,
would form "an impregnable bulwark against the natives,"
or any other dangers. Williamsburg, the old capital of Vir-
ginia, was offered at the same time.

On October 6, 1783, Congress voted upon the selection of
a State, as they existed at that time, beginning with New
Hampshire, and proceeding in order southward. New Jersey
and Maryland received the highest number of votes, but no
choice was made. The next day, on a resolution by Eldridge
Gerry, the location of the "Federal City " was voted on or
near the falls of the Delaware, near Trenton, and a commit-
tee of five was appointed to examine the locality and report.
On October 21 following, the erection of buildings was author-
ized at or near the lower falls of the Potomac or Georgetown,
and a committee was appointed to examine and report on that
site. Two localities were now provided for, and meanwhile
Congress was to meet alternately at Trenton and Annapolis.

The inconvenience of two capitals was soon demonstrated.
The Delaware committee reported favorably, and that for the
Potomac unfavorably on that location, though they thought
better of a site above Georgetown, or IJ m. below, at Funks-
town. On December 20, 1784, it was decided inexpedient to
erect buildings at more than one place. On December 23
three commissioners were appointed to lay out a district of
not less than two nor more tlian 3 m. square, on either side
of the Delaware, within 8 m. above or below the falls.

Commissioners. — 1791-'9J:, Thomas Johnson, Md.; 1791-'95,



236 HISTORY OF "WASHINGTON.

Daniel Carroll, Md. ; 1791-94, David Stuart, Va. ; 1794-1800,
GustavLis Scott, Md. ; 1794-1802, William Thornton, Penn. ;
1795-1802, Alexander White, Md. ; 1800, William Cranch,
Md. ; 1800-1802, Tristram Dalton, Md.

The Constitution of the United States, 1787, gave Congress
the power "to exercise exclusive legislation in all cases what-
soever over such district, not exceeding 10 m. square, as may,
by cession of particular States and the acceptance of Con-
o;ress, become the seat of the Government of the United
States." * * * (Art. I, Sec. 8.)

The first session of Congress of the United States of Amer-
ica, assembled under the Constitution, was called upon to
enter into this question, confronted by a stronger evidence of
sectional spirit than had hitherto been exhibited. Resolutions
from the legislatures of States, besides numerous petitions
and memorials, were presented, urging certain localities, and
frequently offering great inducements. Districts of 10 m.
square, with the right to exercise exclusive jurisdiction, were
otiered to Congress for the seat of Government by acts of the
General Assemblies of Maryland in December, 1788, Penn-
sylvania in September, 1789, and Virginia in December, 1789.
As an additional inducement, Virginia offered $120,000, and
Maryland $72,000. Pennsylvania, in her grant, excepted
Pliiladelphia, the district of Southwark, and part of the
Northern Liberties. Petitions were also received from the
inhabitants of Trenton, in New Jersey ; Lancaster, Wright's
Ferry, York, Carlisle, Harrisburg, Reading, and German-
town, in Pennsylvania, and Baltimore and Georgetown, in
Maryland. All expressed their willingness to come under the
regis of Congress and the Constitution, and pictured in glow-
ing colors the advantages of climate and scenery, and conve-
niences of access which their respective localities possessed.
The newspapers of the day frequently took a humorous view
of this patriotic competition, and in prose and verse gave vent
to considerable goocl-natured sentiment.

In the second session the Capital question was again agi-
tated, and Baltimore, Wilmington, the Delaware, German-
town, between the Potomac and the Susquehanna, were all
urged ; but the act establishing the temporary Seat of Govern-
ment at Philadelphia, from the first Monday in December,
1790, and the permanent on the river Potomac, between the
mouths of the Eastern Branch (Anacostia) and Conogo-
cheague, a tributary of the upper Potomac, to be ready for
the sessions of Congress by the first Monday in December,
1800, was finally passed, and approved by Washington July
16, 1790. In the Senate it received 14 yeas and 12 nays, and
in the House 32 yeas and 29 nays. • The immediate settle-



HISTORY OF WASHINGTON. 237

ment was effected as a compromise with the advocates of a
fiscal measure known as the assumption of the State debts.
The majority of the votes of the Middle States going with
the South, gave the majority for the Potomac.

The Legislature of Virginia, in December, 1790, appropri-
ated the $120,000 previously otTered, payable in three annual
Installments. In December,- 1791, the Legislature of Mary-
land gave an order for the pajaiient of the $72,000 donated
by that State. The December before, the same Legislature
passed an act for providing for tlie condemnation of land, if


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