wish to be directed towards Bitche. I knew that there
was a direct road from Bitche to the Rhine, and this was
my reason for wishing to go that way. The women again
pleaded in my favour, and at length the two young men
got up and offered their services. I accepted the offer,
and they equipped themselves, and announced that they
were ready. I took a most joyful leave of the women and
old man, and followed my guides, inexpressibly rejoiced at
getting out of this danger; though I did not consider
myself perfectly safe whilst I remained with these men.

My suspicions and alarm grew stronger and stronger;
for they conducted me through very narrow, intricate
ways, through deserted places, and over heaths and
commons; and they generally kept behind me; while I



126 ADVENTURES OF CAPTAIN CTBRIEN

observed they were always whispering together. I had, at
the best, no great opinion of them ; and these circumstances
were so suspicious that I feigned occasion to remain be-
hind a little while ; and this time I occupied in concealing
my watch, money, and the small map, all of which had
hitherto been in a pocket of my pantaloons. This being
done, I advanced, assumed a light and satisfied air, but took
good care not again to take the lead of them. About
midnight the men left me, on a pathway to the road to
Bitche, and took their leave. I felt much pleased at so
happy a deliverance, and continued in that direction until
about three o'clock ; when, supposing myself near enough
to that unhappy mansion (Bitche), I directed my course (as
I thought) towards the Rhine. Some time before daylight
it ceased raining ; the stars showed themselves, and I had
the mortification of discovering that I had been going
diametrically opposite to my proper course.

In this unhappy dilemma I kept advancing, being con-
fident that I had passed no secure retreat. At length,
some time after daylight, I discovered a very thin wood
on the side of a hill, which I immediately betook myself to,
and there I remained until night. Here I managed to
get a dry shave. My gold watch, hung upon a bush, was
my only looking-glass ; but the razor was a tolerably good
one. There was a drizzling rain the whole of the day, and
the cold was extreme.

At night, about the usual time, I commenced my
journey, and took the direction back, going over the
ground which I had followed the preceding morning ; and I
confess, notwithstanding my disappointment, I felt some
consolation in knowing I was at length in the right track.
During the whole of this night, my escapes from being



CHALLENGED BY A GENDARME 127

dashed to pieces by repeated falls down precipices, which
the darkness concealed, were quite incredible. About
eleven I felt very much harassed, from crossing fields,
morasses, gullies, and ditches; and happening to hit the
high-road, I resolved to follow it for some time, especially
as I thought it my direct way, but could not be certain, as
the moon and stars were still obscured. I supposed it
was too late for travellers to interrupt me. However,
after quitting a wood on the side of the road, whence
I had to crawl up a sort of gravel -pit to get on it,
imagine my astonishment ! I had no sooner stepped on
the road than I was challenged " Qui vive?" ("Who
goes there ! "') in an audible voice, by a gendarme on horse-
back. I made but one jump down the gravel -pit, and
crawled thence back into the wood ; where I remained for
some time to gather strength, being sadly exhausted. I
then proceeded along the wood, without having any idea
where I was going, the night still very dark, wet, and in-
clement. I fortunately fell in with a cabbage -garden,
close to a cottage near the wood, and ate plentifully, and
I stowed a good supply in my pockets for the ensuing day.
Afterwards I re-entered the wood, in which I remained all
day. After dark I recommenced my journey. This was
the most severe night, if possible, I had yet experienced :
the roads, pathways, and fields were deep and heavy from
the constant rains ; rivulets had become dangerous rivers,
and I had to wade through several. I had an opportunity
again this night of feasting upon cabbage-stalks, leaves,
and turnips, and filled my pockets plentifully.

My feet now began to blister and to get very sore;
and I was likewise becoming emaciated and very weak it
being my fifth day of living upon cabbage leaves, stalks,



128 ADVENTURES OF CAPTAIN O'BRIEN

and raw turnips. In my first attempt at flight our food
used to be occasionally nuts, apples, and grapes; now
turnips and cabbages were my only resource.

About half-past two in the morning I perceived a small
lonely house on the side of the wood. My necessities in-
duced me to imagine that I might approach it without
danger, and endeavour to procure some refreshment. I
saw a light in the window, got close to the door, peeped
through the keyhole and window alternately, and at last
saw a woman spinning by a rousing fire. The effect was
electrical. What could be more thrilling to a man in my
deplorable state than to behold the cleanly hearth, the
blazing fire, and happy industry, amidst the comforts and
simple ornaments of the cottage ? Oh, how anxiously did
I wish to be seated by that brilliant fire ! The physical
wants of drooping nature prevailed, and seizing the
knocker, my astonished ears heard its sound. The door
was opened by a man, who surveyed me from top to toe.
I was covered all over with mud, nor was there a thread
about me that was not saturated with rain. He could
clearly perceive from my miserable appearance and woeful
aspect that I had been for a long time secluded from my
fellow-creatures, and had been doomed to associate, or
rather herd, with the animals that inhabit the caves and
forests. Whilst the fellow remained with his eyes riveted
upon me, I assured him in French that I was thirsty, and
asked him if he would have the kindness to give me some-
thing to drink. He could not speak French, but he made
me understand that he had nothing whatever to give me.
I discovered a pail of water, and pointing to it with a
supplicating gesture, the churl brought me a ladleful of it.
I then took the liberty of sitting down by the fire, though



A NARROW ESCAPE 129

the inhospitable boor or wife never asked me. I as little
liked the appearance of the place as I did that of its
brutal owner ; and as it presented to my view not a single
thing, except the fire, that could be of the slightest service
to me, I resolved to take my departure. I asked him the
road to Strasbourg, and the reply was that it was close by.
I was about to quit the fireside, when a tailor arrived to
work for the family. He also began to survey me closely,
and having examined me from head to foot, I heard him
whisper to the man of the house, and clearly distinguished
the words Englander and Bitche. In fact, the uncharitable
varlet had revealed the truth, that I was an Englishman
escaping from Bitche. He then addressed me, and asked
if I were a person authorised to travel ? whether I had
a passport ? with several other questions of the same
tendency.

Exhausted as I was, I saw that boldness in this case
was my only buckler; so turning fiercely upon him, I
replied that he must be a very impudent fellow to take
the liberty of asking such questions, that I should not
condescend to answer an inquisitive gossiping rascal of his
description ; and I wished to know by what authority he
could presume to interrogate me in so unhandsome a
manner. The fellow pretended to smile ; but he had not
expected a retort so vigorous, as I saw evidently that he
was disconcerted, if not frightened. I next observed to
the landlord that the extreme inclemency of the weather
alone had occasioned my stopping at his house, particularly
as I had seen neither town, village, nor public -house
contiguous to it. I added that as there were no hopes of
the weather clearing up, I should continue my road to
Strasbourg, which the fellow assured me was twelve

I



130 ADVENTURES OF CAPTAIN O'BRIEN

leagues off, whilst Bitche was only three. At this in-
formation I was distressed and mortified to find what
little progress I had made in so many days, or rather
nights. The whole party sat down to breakfast without
asking the weather-beaten, way -bewildered stranger to
partake of their meal ; so he, of course, took his leave of
these selfish and unfeeling specimens of human nature;
and exchanging the blazing fire for the unpitying elements,
he pursued his solitary journey, disgusted that aught so
base as what he had witnessed could be found under the
human form.



CHAPTER IX

An inclement season A retreat in a cavern Somnambulism The
discovery of a shepherd's hut A traveller put out of a wrong
road Swimming in a winter's night Passing through a mill
A suspicious traveller may be an honest man A Lorraine cot-
tage seen through a fog Dangers from over-kind people
Repugnance to be introduced to a mayor or any other good
society Concealment in a hollow willow An honest fellow-
traveller of fugitive reminiscences An ingenious fiction A
perspective of Strasbourg.

THE inauspicious month of November 1807 seemed to
take a malignant cognisance of my enterprises, and to
visit me with more than its usual severities. To prevent
suspicion, I walked boldly on the road. It rained excess-
ively heavy, and I was sure that nobody who had any
possibility of remaining under cover would be in the way
to interrupt me. After advancing a short distance, on
turning back I observed mj friend the tailor, with all the
rest, watching which way I went. I therefore continued
the road until I lost sight of the house, and proceeded,
hungry and wet, but tolerably well pleased at getting so
well off. I now discovered a high mountain with rocks
and pines, contiguous to the road ; and I imagined I
might find a more hospitable retreat in some cavern
amongst those rocks than in the house which my fellow-
creatures occupied. Not wishing to remain exposed any

131



ADVENTURES OF CAPTAIN O'BRIEN

longer on the highway, I scrambled up, and reached the
summit. There I found an excellent dry cavern under
an immense rock. I crept into it and shortly fell into a
profound sleep; in which state I remained until I was
disturbed by the grunting of wild hogs that came to
banish the unfortunate and forlorn usurper who had so
illegally taken possession of their habitation. I found it
quite dusk, and about the time I should recommence my
journey. I descended on the Strasbourg road, and kept
running with little intermission the whole of the night,
notwithstanding the excruciating pain I felt from my
blistered feet.

About midnight, having halted to listen if there were
any noise or footsteps to be heard on the road, I plainly
discovered, by the cracking of whips, that a coach or
waggon was advancing. I therefore retired a few steps
from the roadside and lay close down. It passed, and, as
far as I dared to peep at it, appeared to be a diligence, or
a very heavy travelling coach. I then resumed my route ;
kept running on, and passed several villages, until a little
before daylight, conjecturing that I could not be far from
the Rhine. I secured my lodging in a wood for the
ensuing day.

Looking about for the best shelter and accommodation,
I perceived a cavern under a rock far above me. It was
apparently formed by the hand of nature and time ; and
the rock, from its stupendous summit, displayed an immense
precipice, well calculated to inspire the feelings of awe and
admiration which are derived from the view of beautiful
and sublime scenery. But I was in no mood to contem-
plate scenery, or to enjoy either beauty or sublimity. My
thoughts were all absorbed in procuring shelter from bitter



SOMNAMBULISM 133

cold, from piercing winds and drenching rain, and, from
what was worse than all these, the hostile hand of un-
feeling man.

I determined, if possible, to scale this alarming height.
It was still dark, and this added to my perils and difficulties.
In this exertion I climbed on my knees, clinging to roots,
clumps of dwarf trees, or to tufts of the thick, coarse
herbage ; and if a single hold had given way, I must have
been dashed to pieces. Panting, and nearly exhausted, I
at last reached the top ; and recovering my breath, I
refreshed myself with the few cabbage stumps which I had
procured in passing the villages ; and entering the cavern,
I threw myself on the ground, and instantly fell into what
may be almost called a stupor rather than a sleep.

My spirits were extremely agitated during the whole of
the time I was in this lurking-place. I awoke frequently,
talking quite loud, and naming the gentlemen that had
been my former companions, holding conversation with
them as if they were actually present. Some time after I
had experienced a short and disturbed repose, I started up
all of a sudden, and desired my companions to rise and
renew their journey ; when, on recovering from my
delirium, and looking round, to my inexpressible amaze-
ment I discovered than I was actually at the bottom of
the precipice, and that it was quite daylight. This
precipice was very steep, and, I repeat it, alarmingly
dangerous, even to a man with all his senses collected, and
in the open day ; and how I came again to the bottom of
it alive, I am utterly unable to explain. After collecting
my scattered ideas, which was no easy task, I hastened into
the wood again, for it rained very heavily, and prostrated
myself in the most humble, devout, and, I trust, sincere



134 ADVENTURES OF CAPTAIN O'BRIEN

manner, before the great Disposer of all events, offering up
my most earnest and heartfelt thanks for the great mercies
and protection so bountifully bestowed upon me on this
most marvellous occasion. During this day I crossed
several mountains covered with trees, and at length found
a very comfortable cave, full of nice dry leaves, on the
declivity of a hill. From the continued chain of lofty,
wild, and barren mountains that surrounded me, I had
very serious apprehensions that this might be the lair of
wolves or of some wild beasts ; but I entered it, and
found it lofty enough to sit upright in. I took off my
coat, squeezed out the water, and, after refreshing myself
with my usual fare, I lay down on the earth, and covering
myself with leaves, and my coat over all, I went to sleep.

About dusk I was awakened by the chattering of a jay
at the mouth of the cavern. The image of this bird is
now fresh in my recollection, and will remain so as long as
I live. I crawled out of this, which proved to me so safe
a retreat, shook myself, and put on my wet coat. It had
every appearance of a fine night, with an inclination to
frost. I consoled myself with the calculation that I could
not be more than three leagues from Strasbourg. After
descending the mountain, I discovered a peasant's hut in
the vale ; and, let the danger be what it might, I deter-
mined at all hazards to ascertain at this place what was
really my distance from the Rhine. I accordingly entered,
and found a young man, woman, and child sitting round
a fire. Unfortunately they could speak nothing but patois
German, and I was about to retreat, vexed in the extreme
that we were unintelligible to each other; when, just as I
was leaving the hut, an old man met me at the door. He
stared at me with his eyes full of wonder, and as soon as



A MORTIFYING DISCOVERY 135

he recovered his self-possession he asked me if I were a
Frenchman. " Yes," I replied ; " and I have missed my way
in crossing the mountains ; and I will be obliged to you if
you will put me en route to Strasbourg." The fellow was
kind of heart and civil of manners. He put me on the
right road, and gave me the names of all the villages I
should have to pass through ; but my spirits sank within
me when he concluded by saying that I was only twelve
leagues from Strasbourg. " Twelve leagues ! " I exclaimed,
with dismay ; but I took my leave of this old man, and
proceeded, heavy of heart, on my apparently interminable
journey. I could not account for this great distance,
except on the ground of my having been directed wrong
by the former inhospitable wretches that had driven me
from their fireside.

My humble hosts on this occasion had nothing to give
me to eat, and they really appeared sorry for it ; but before
my departure they offered me some brandy and water, for
which I was grateful, got change for a Napoleon, and
paid them liberally.

At this time my feet were so very much swollen and
very sore that I could not wear my shoes ; but I kept my
stockings on until the foot parts of them were worn out,
and even then I found their legs of great service in frosty
weather. So far from refreshing me, the brandy and water
I had taken made me very ill.

The grateful idea of being at last in a fair way of
succeeding and overcoming all difficulties began now to
be highly cherished. I found myself on an excellent road,
got a supply of very fine turnips out of an adjoining
garden, and discovered regular posts on the roadside. I
kept running all night, with very little intermission,



136 ADVENTURES OF CAPTAIN CTBRIEN

resolved, at all events, to get near the Rhine before
morning. The road continued for about four leagues
through a wood. On leaving this wood I was brought to
a stand all of a sudden by the walls of a town, which,
according to the names I had received from the old man,
was Haguenau ; but I had never supposed that the road
led through it, or that it was walled in. It was also sur-
rounded by a river, which appeared an insurmountable
barrier to my proceeding. It required much resolution
(owing to the frost) to take to the water ; however, there
was no alternative, necessity has no law, so I stripped,
and, fortunately, swam and waded through one branch of
it. On the other branch I observed a mill, with the house
built on an arch, so as to let the water flow under it.
Upon a strict survey, I perceived that if I could pass this
branch, I should be able to make a circuit round the town,
and to get clear off. I approached, saw the mill -door
open, and the road on the opposite side. I was naked,
ready to plunge in this stream as I had into the other, had
necessity required it ; but I retired to a shelter, put on my
clothes, and, with a palpitating heart, I passed through
the mill, without hearing any noise but that of the works.
The passage seemed to me to be a thoroughfare for the
people who brought their corn to be ground, if not for
the population generally.

I now walked towards Strasbourg, with the cheering
confidence that I was on the proper road. At about half-
past three I was a little startled by hearing a man cough
at a short distance behind me. I did not quicken my
pace ; but, on the contrary, in order to avoid suspicion, I
rather slackened it. He soon overtook me, saluted me
civilly in very broken French, and expressed his surprise



I PASS BY HAGENAU 137

that I had been able to get out of town so early. This
was a shrewd, and to me a very unpleasant, observation.

I told my most unwelcome companion that I believed
I was the first out of the town that morning. I pretended
to be of opinion that it was past five o^clock, and said that
I believed it was usual to open the gates of the town about
that hour. He rejoined, "That it was more likely to be
nearer three than five ; " and added, " that he wondered
to see me barefooted." I began to dislike the style of
conversation exceedingly ; but I assumed tranquillity, if I
had it not ; and I told him I was a soldier, and that, after
the severe campaigns we lately had had in Prussia and
against the Russians, we were insensible to cold and in-
different to all weathers. He assented to all I said, com-
mending my zeal, and declaring that " we soldiers were
wonderful fellows." I was glad to hear him say that he
was a butcher, going to purchase cattle ; and still more
glad when he told me that " he could not bear me company
for more than two miles farther." Strasbourg was about
three leagues off. At the distance he had named he took
leave of me, inviting me to accept a dram from him at a
public-house on the roadside. I excused myself, observing,
" That I had never been accustomed to drink so early."
The excuse had at least a military probability about it,
for in France I found the soldiers remarkably sober.

The day was breaking fast, and I was approaching a
large town, which made it necessary to get off the highway ;
so I took the first path to the right, determining to leave
Strasbourg on the left, as it was my intention to proceed
to Switzerland, if I found any considerable obstacle in
attempting to cross the Rhine. I advanced about two or
three miles through the fields, then sat down, wiped my



138 ADVENTURES OF CAPTAIN O'BRIEN

feet, and got my shoes (with the legs of my stockings) on,
though with great difficulty, as my feet were still very
much swelled, and the skin had been partly peeled off. I
limped on in great pain, the morning was very hazy and
disagreeable, and I felt excessively weak. The heat of my
feet parched the upper leather of the shoes to that degree
that I was frequently obliged to stand in a pool or wet
place to cool and soften them. Roving about in the open
fields, in excruciating pain and under the greatest dejection
of spirits, without being able to discover a hiding-place, I
remained for some time undetermined how to act.

At length I heard a bell ring, and conjectured it must
be in some small village. The fog was so thick that I
could not see any distance. I directed my course towards
the sound, and found what I had supposed. The village
appeared to be a very poor one. After a great deal of
hesitation I resolved to approach the next house, or
cottage, to me. My pretext was, to inquire my distance
from the road to Strasbourg. This I accordingly did. I
found two young women spinning flax, dressed genteelly,
after the German manner. They could not understand
me. I made signals that I was thirsty ; when one of them
brought me some milk, which I swallowed with great
eagerness. I offered payment, but she would not take
any, and made me understand how sorry they were that
they could not speak French. After this, one went out,
and shortly returned with a man, who spoke a little broken
French : the less, and the more broken, the better for me,
for this excused me from being too explicit or communica-
tive. I could willingly have declined her well-meant but
officious services.

What were my feelings may be easily imagined, when



THE MAYOR OF THE VILLAGE 139

my civil instructor engagingly informed me that the mayor
of the village was the only man amongst them who spoke
my language correctly. At that moment I entertained a
most uncharitable wish as to the locality in which his
worship might be confined, at least until I could escape.
Imagine then what my sensations were when my most
officiously kind communicant politely assured me, " That
the young woman had been in search of the mayor ; that
his worship was not at home : he was, however, expected
every minute ; and that immediately he returned he would
do himself the pleasure of coming and conversing with me."
He concluded by assuring me that the mayor delighted
in paying his respects to strangers. I almost wished that
Beelzebub himself had had this polite mayor in his clutches,
or that his worship was thrice triply surrounded by the
fairies, by the demons of Freischiitz, if not by the worse
imps of another place. All the visions of a good cheer,
an excellent fire, repose and concealment amongst appar-
ently some of "the best people in the world," were
destroyed in a moment. I suddenly arose, and assuming
a tone of great gratitude and a sense of obligations, I
thanked them cordially for their hospitality, and thanked
them most hypocritically for their extreme goodness in
wishing to procure me the honour of a visit from the
mayor ; and I expressed my great regret that I could not
wait to receive his worship, as I was in the greatest haste
to get to Strasbourg. Saying this, I left the house.

I limped on through the fields as fast as I could, every
now and then looking behind me to see if these well-
intentioned people were watching which way I took ; or
rather, whether their officious kindness had led to a
pursuit of me. The weather was, fortunately, thick and



140 ADVENTURES OF CAPTAIN O'BRIEN

hazy, and I advanced through the fields, carefully avoiding
those in which I could perceive people at work. I had an
opportunity this day of getting an excellent supply of