turnips. This part of the country abounds in them ; they
are the principal food of their cattle ; and the peasantry
were busily employed in piling them in heaps, and covering
them with earth, as the winter store of provender. In
one respect, at least, I might have thought myself reduced
very much to the condition of Nebuchadnezzar, for both
my food and shelter resembled those of four-footed animals.
My punishment, however, was not to be so long. "My
poverty, and not my will, consented."

After a long state of suspense I descried a kind of shrub-
bery about a mile off, and I instantly bent my steps to"
wards it. I found it was a thick enclosure, and well
adapted for a hiding-place. Though wet to the skin, I
immediately began my preparations for the night. My
feet were so much worse that it was utterly impossible to
get my shoes on. However, I thought I might be able to
limp on by some means or other to the Rhine that night.
At my usual time I hobbled forth. The night set in with
incessant rain, and I found myself in a short time sur-
rounded with marshes and rivers, and in total darkness.
After wading through a multiplicity of bogs, I at length
found myself in a tolerably clear country, and my feet felt
better from the moisture. It was, however, useless to
keep walking on, as I might increase the distance I had to
go, instead of diminishing it. I therefore resolved, if I
could get a convenient place, to halt until it should clear
up. I espied a house at some distance and made for it,
hoping to find shelter near it. It proved to be a large
farmhouse. It was now about midnight. I got into the



FOLLOW A PASSENGER 141

yard, and could hear the cattle in the stables and cow-
houses feeding. I could not help envying the beasts that
were so comfortably provided for, but my fears deterred
me from attempting to j oin them, and I proceeded to some
distance from the dwelling, into the open fields, where I
discovered a few willow-trees by a large dyke, one of which
was of a tolerably good size, and its trunk afforded me
shelter. It was close to a pathway, which was no small
encouragement, as I expected it led my way. I sat down
by the willow, and earnestly prayed that the clouds might
disperse, and the stars show themselves and guide me out
of the misery I was overwhelmed with. Being excessively
faint, I fell into a kind of slumber ; and some time had
elapsed, when, on a sudden, I was startled at hearing the
footsteps of a man. As information was actually indispen-
sable, and as I might not have any other opportunity of
obtaining it, I determined to accost the passenger, got up,
and followed him. He walked so exceedingly fast that I
had to hobble, or even run, to overtake him, though the
pain occasioned by doing so was excruciating. On coming
up I accosted him in French, and he answered me very
civilly. He was in a peasant's garb, but I much feared
that this might be merely a disguise. With some little
preamble and circumlocution, I asked him my way to
Strasbourg. He replied that I was on the right road,
and that, as he was going there, we could accompany each
other. Heaven forgive me for hypocrisy, when I assured
him I should be glad of his company.

Although he spoke French tolerably well, I perceived
that he had a German accent. This pleased me much,
and I began to hope that by devising some very plausible
tale, and by feigning to make him my confidant, he might



142 ADVENTURES OF CAPTAIN O'BRIEN

be so well deceived, and so much flattered, as not to betray
me, even if he were a gendarme in disguise.

Putting on suitable looks and gestures, I began my
story. I told him that as he appeared to be a friendly,
honest kind of man, I wished to disclose to him what I
was and where I was going, and that I earnestly begged
for his advice. He listened to me with much com-
placency. I continued my narrative, and with as pathetic
a tone as I could assume. I told him that I was an un-
fortunate conscript, a native of Switzerland; that I had
lately received an account of the death of my parents, in
consequence of which I had become possessed of a small
independence, and that I had applied for permission to go
and settle my affairs, and had been refused. My com-
panion heard all this with such an appearance of honest
sympathy that I came to my climax, and divulged that
this cruel refusal had induced me to desert, and that I had
determined never more to serve the French nation. I told
him that I should feel quite secure if I could only get the
other side of the Rhine ; and concluded by saying that I
relied upon his goodness to direct me, and that I had
three crowns which were at his service, if he would only
procure me a passage across the river. How fertile are
necessity and danger in giving a poor mortal a faculty for
invention !

The man continued to the last to listen to me
attentively, every now and then stopping and surveying
me earnestly. I did not much like his scrutinising looks.
At last he desired me to be of good cheer, and said that
my confidence in him was not by any means misplaced;
there could not be much risk in crossing the Rhine, and he
would direct me how to proceed and where to procure a



CONCEAL MYSELF THROUGH FEAR 143

boat. We had passed a small village about a mile, when
he halted quite short or suddenly, felt for his tobacco-box,
and exclaimed, " My God, I have lost it ! " He thought
he recollected where he must have dropped it. I wished
to know if it was of any value, otherwise it was not worth
turning back for it. He answered, " Yes, my friend, it
cost me twenty sols 11 (tenpence). I endeavoured to
dissuade him from going back, but all my entreaties
proved useless. The fact was, I dreaded this was only a
pretext to return to the village, in order to give informa-
tion and have me arrested. He advised me to remain in a
place which he pointed out until he came back. I in-
formed him I would ; yet I had no intention to keep my
promise. He then quitted me, and I directed my course
towards the appointed spot ; but when I had lost sight of
him I changed my position, and, after a severe struggle, in
the most excruciating agony, I got on the legs of my
stockings, my old shoes, and an old pair of gaiters which I
managed to button over all. I then placed myself in a
tolerably good thicket, where I could see him without
being seen. Here I remained in a state of uncertainty
very near a hour, when, to my great satisfaction, I saw
him returning by himself. I therefore regained the
appointed place before he arrived, lest he might discover
my suspicions. He had not found the box, and regretted
very much its loss. We were now approaching the ancient
and well-known city of Strasbourg, and could very plainly
see its steeples, the principal one of which is acknowledged
to be one of the highest and most beautiful in Europe.
But, whatever admiration I may feel for works of art, I
was in that condition which disqualified me for enjoying
the sight of church steeples.



144 ADVENTURES OF CAPTAIN O'BRIEN

The stranger now began his own history, as a return
for my communicative confidence. He informed me that
he was a Russian by birth, had been a long time in the
French army, and had deserted the service. A Russian in
the French service struck me as improbable. He then
dwelt greatly on the timidity of young deserters. He.
when he first deserted, thought he should be arrested if he
but saw the top of a steeple, and advised me to advance
boldly to a part of the Rhine which he would point out,
where there were fishermen that would instantly put me
across for a mere trifle. I wished him to accompany me
to the place, offering him two of the crowns which he had
already refused. He would neither accompany me nor
receive the money, but contented himself with assuring me
that there was no danger. Close to the gates of this
renowned city he told me that he must quit me. I there-
fore begged of him to accept one crown, which he received
with great pleasure. I then shook hands with him, and
proceeded in the direction he had pointed out. I have
always since considered my meeting with this kind stranger
as a providential interference in my favour, at a moment
when I was quite at a loss to direct myself, and did not
know which way to turn or what on earth to do.

I had proceeded about half a mile, when, from the
number of country people I met going into the city, and
from the singularity of my appearance and dress, particu-
larly on a Sunday, I thought it most prudent to get off
the highway, and as quickly as possible. I accordingly
got into a garden hard by, and seated myself by a brook,
in which, cold and unpleasant as it felt, I washed off the
mud and dirt, and I scraped and cleaned myself in the
best manner I could, I then advanced, passing through



THE BANKS OF THE RHINE 145

several little villages, and crossed the river 111 in a fisher-
man's small boat, and for two sols. This extraordinary
success cheered and emboldened me amazingly. I after-
wards proceeded eagerly to the place that had been
pointed out by my providential guide, whilst my passage
of the 111 gave me a new confidence in his counsel, with
respect to feeling, or at least assuming assurance and
composure.

In a short time I caught a view of the broad and
majestic river. My heart palpitated with joy, and at
length I found myself on the banks of the Rhine.



CHAPTER X

The banks of the Rhine Contemplations of crossing the river
irregularly Difficulties of finding a legal passage Mistaking
two armed officers for two harmless fishermen An appeal to
feelings, and a national assurance of patriotism Cattle crossing
the bridge of Kehl An intermixture with the cattle, and a
passage over the Rhine Joy of being out of France A pro-
gress towards Friburg Contrast between a warm feather bed
and bivouacing in the mud An innocent landlord clever at a
guess An escape round Friburg A night's rest En route to
Constance A village inn A countryman for a waiter, and a
long gossip upon personal histories, and native places The
inconsistencies of superstition and hunger My approach to
Constance Effects on the mind produced by its magnificent
scenery, and beautiful lake Crossing a branch of the Lake
Constance Leaving the kingdom of Wirtemberg, and entering
the kingdom of Bavaria A night's rest in a Bavarian village
La route to Lindau Outmarching an enemy The gate to
Lindau Successfully passing the sentinels Elation of spirits
An awkward querist Unsuccessful invention A capture
Examination and imprisonment Bitter reflections upon my
cruel destiny.

IT was on Sunday, the 22nd day of November (the eighth
day since I had escaped), that all my sufferings and perils
were so amply rewarded, by my reaching the margin of
this majestic stream, where I arrived at about one in the
afternoon, but was distressed at not being able to discover
the fishermen^ huts that had been described to me by my
friend. My anxiety was extreme. This part of the bank

146



INTERROGATED BY ARMED MEN 147

of the river was entirely covered with trees and very high
grass. I had traversed the bank in various directions
without success, when I at last espied a small punt hauled
into a creek, without sculls or paddles, and fastened by a
lock and chain to a tree. This I thought might be a
resource for escape, if no better means could be found ;
but the thought originated in despair, for the river was
excessively rapid, and interspersed with shoals and islands,
and as I was not more than three or four miles above the
bridge of Kehl, I might be drifted to nearly that distance
were I to endeavour to cross it by myself, and thus, in all
probability, fall into the hands of my enemies.

I therefore hesitated, and concealed myself in a thick
covert, and rested on the grass, contemplating the course
and windings of this celebrated and noble river, much per-
plexed as to what further steps I should take. However, I
resorted to my old plan of refreshing myself by a suitable
quantity of turnips ; and, having found an abundance of
them in the neighbourhood of the city, I was not very
sparing of my vegetable diet. After a short time, I
recommenced my search ; and, in a little boat at a small
distance, I observed two men pulling down a narrow creek.
I was quite elated at this discovery, as I made sure they
were fishermen ; and I therefore advanced towards them
without any hesitation whatever. I then called to them.
On discovering me, they instantly made towards the bank
on which I was standing. I need not say how happy I
felt at that moment, expecting in a few minutes to be on
the German side. But, my God ! what was my astonish-
ment, when, as these men approached, I discovered they
were armed with muskets and sabres ! It was too late to
attempt a retreat ; and, as I had called them, I imagined



148 ADVENTURES OF CAPTAIN O'BRIEN

that might, in a great measure, do away with suspicion on
their part. I therefore waited the result of this rencontre.

One of them immediately jumped out of the boat,
and came towards me. I appeared quite pleased ; and,
although I plainly saw he was going to interrogate me, I
showed him a six franc piece, and very deliberately asked
him if he would give me a passage across in his boat ? He
could not answer me, as he did not understand a word of
French ; but the man in the boat heard me, and replied,
"We cannot, but we are much at your service." I
perceived he was a real Frenchman ; and having said thus
much, he jumped out also.

" I suppose, sir," added he, " that you have a passport,
and proper papers to entitle you to quit this country ? "
I made answer, " Certainly. But who authorised you," I
asked, " to demand so impertinent a question ? " " I am
authorised by the mayor of Strasbourg ; and, unless you
can produce them, I shall be under the necessity of con-
ducting you into his presence as a prisoner." I told him
I was very willing to go with him, though it would be
certainly a little inconvenient. " I have friends on the
opposite side, whom I promised to visit this evening ;
it would have been too late if I had taken the round by the
bridge ; and that was my motive for wishing to get across
from where I now am."

This man appeared to be a very acute sort of fellow.
" I suspect," added he, " that you are a deserter from the
army, and I must conduct you to Strasbourg." I showed
him my dress, and the quality of the cloth I wore (though
a little the worse for the late usage, it was superfine), and
I asked him " when he had seen a French soldier wear
anything to be compared to it?" "Ay, ay," cried he,



ASSURANCE OF PATRIOTISM 149

"French soldiers know how to disguise themselves in a
superior style ; so you will have the goodness to come
along with us." I remonstrated on the hardship of being
thus prevented from going to see my friends. He stamped,
and said, " Come along ! " The German, more cool and
phlegmatic, appeared to mutter something to the other. I
embraced this opportunity of altering my tone and plan al-
together; and I addressed the Frenchman nearly in the same
words I had done my late Russian guide in the morning,
with respect to my opinion of his honesty, goodness of
heart, etc., but differed widely in regard to my native place.
I was now come from Wirtemberg, not far from the
banks of the Rhine, and had been educated at Paris, where
I had relations. At an early age I had been removed to

J O

Hanover, where a friend of mine had obtained for me an
ensigncy in the King of England's service. At the time
the French took that place, I escaped into Prussia, where
I got a lieutenancy, and had been made prisoner at the
late battle of Jena. I had recently received an account of
the death of my parents, who had left me a tolerably good
property, and I felt anxious to revisit my native country,
from which I had been so long absent. Being closely con-
fined at Chalons (our depot), I had made my escape, and
had now no obstacle to surmount but what he could
easily remedy (meaning the river). I concluded, by
requesting him for a moment to consider himself in my
situation, and to judge of mine by an appeal to his own
feelings. I saw that this reasoning began to work power-
fully. I then produced the six livres I had already offered
the German, and requested they would accept of them,
and put me across. It was a mere trifle, but I was not in
a condition to afford more. The Frenchman spoke very



150 ADVENTURES OF CAPTAIN O'BRIEN

feelingly ; declared that it was utterly impossible for them
to put me over, as they ran a risk of being arrested on the
opposite side, and punished for landing anybody clandes-
tinely. They then desired that I would hold up my hand,
and declare solemnly that I had committed no crime
against the state. To this I could have no objection, and
promptly did so. They were satisfied, ordered me to be off,
and advised me to conceal myself in the wood, saying,
" Get over how you can ; we will not molest you."" I
insisted upon their taking the piece of money. They em-
barked ; and I hurried into the wood, not a little pleased
at this narrow escape.

After I got secured in an excellent hiding-place, the
whole scene appeared as a dream ; nor could I help
ejaculating to myself several times, "What a fortunate
fellow ! What a miraculous escape ! " I remained con-
cealed until dark, and then turned my steps towards the
city, hoping that I might be more successful in finding a
boat ; but in this hope I was miserably disappointed. My
case seemed desperate.

At daybreak on Monday, 23rd November, I discovered
myself nearly at the entrance of Kehl bridge. This bridge
was thronged with oxen, and their bellowing, with the
cracking of whips, and the whistling, shouting, swearing, and
disputing of the drovers, made a hideous noise, and created
a great scene of confusion. It struck me suddenly that I
might take advantage of the disorder, intermix with the
cattle, and pass the bridge, eluding the vigilance of the
sentinels. I was harassed, worn out, and weary of being
kept in such a state of suspense, as well as of being per-
petually agitated by the conflicts of hope and fear. I felt
that I was too much exhausted to continue longer living



I PASS THE BRIDGE OF KEHL 151

on my diet of raw vegetables, and without shelter, as the
season was getting far advanced, and the weather becom-
ing worse and worse every day. Full of these and similar
reflections, I addressed myself to the all-seeing and bene-
ficent Providence for protection, and I proceeded to seize
the opportunity without delay.

I advanced briskly on the bridge ; and, getting amongst
the cattle, in a very few minutes I had passed the major
part of them, as well as the two French sentinels that
were muffled up in their sentry-boxes at the foot of the
bridge. My enterprise, thanks to the oxen, succeeded
astonishingly. In a quarter of an hour, to my heartfelt
satisfaction, I found myself safe on the German side of
the Rhine, having passed, amidst the cattle, I suppose
eight or nine French and German sentinels, without being
challenged or noticed by one of them. Thank God, I was
now out of France. I may have been partly indebted to
the weather for my escape ; for the morning was extremely
raw and cold, and the sentries kept so well within their
boxes, that, amidst the noise, the jostling, and confusion
of the cattle, they had but little opportunity of seeing me.

With a light and most thankful heart, I passed on
without interruption, leaving Kehl to the left; and,
suddenly turning to the right, I soon got on the high
road to Friburg. The effect of this escape upon my
spirits seemed to give ease and elasticity to my steps, and
strength to my whole body. My entire animal frame
seemed invigorated ; and, as I cast my eye over the broad
expanse of the noble river, and saw France, the land of
my persecution, on the other side, I gave way to reflections
that I may as well not repeat.

After walking as rapidly as, in my state, I could, nearly



152 ADVENTURES OF CAPTAIN O'BRIEN

three leagues, I stopped in a small village on the high
road to refresh myself, having for nearly nine days lived
entirely on raw vegetables. I was determined now to pass
for a Frenchman, for I was no longer tormented with fears
of French gendarmes. At the public-house I went into,
without suspicious looks or alarming inquiries, I got
readily supplied with plenty of bread and cheese, and a
pint of wine, which, though of a very inferior quality,
surpassed at that moment anything I had ever tasted.
Danger and sufferings, excessive fatigue and hunger, would
make the worst of food seem good and delicious.

After my refreshing meal, and my comfortable rest by
the side of the fire, at about two oVlock I took my leave,
and proceeded on my journey fearlessly, keeping the high
road to Friburg. To a man who feels himself free, the
very air of Heaven seems sweeter and more refreshing
than to, the bondsman, and I felt myself in freedom, com-
pared at least to what I long had been.

Owing to the state of my feet, my progress was but
slow. At night I began to be perplexed as to how I
should act, for I dreaded that the laws of Baden and
Wirtemberg, with respect to travellers, might be similar
to those of France, and that every landlord or host might
be required to demand the passport of his guest, and to
exhibit it at the Municipality, before being allowed to
supply him with a bed. After deliberating a long time,
I came to the resolution to enter a small poor-looking
village then before me. A place of that description ap-
peared the best to try the experiment in. At about half-
past seven, I got directed to a public-house ; everything
appeared to favour me, so I entered, and asked if I could
be provided with a bed ? The landlord answered in very



COMFORTS OF A FEATHER-BED 153

good French, in the affirmative, and added supper also if
I wished. After making a hearty meal, I insisted on his
taking some wine with me, and then expressed a wish to
go to bed, observing that I was a little fatigued. He
ordered the servant to light me to my room, nor did he
trouble me with any inquiries. The servant, after giving
me a nightcap, retired, and I then secured my chamber
door. My feet were in a most shocking condition ; not a
bit of skin was on the greater part of them ; it literally
had stuck to the upper leathers of my shoes, and I was
under the necessity of moistening them with water, before
I could get them off. I then tore a couple of strips from
my shirt (which by the bye was now greatly reduced), put
some candle-grease on, and applied the strips to the sore
places. My feet being thus dressed, although in a very
imperfect manner, I took off my clothes and went to bed.
I found it a very good one, though peculiar in its form,
which was strange to me, it being the custom of this
country to sleep between two feather-beds, the largest in
general uppermost ; but I had sheets and a counterpane,
as in other countries.

Notwithstanding the excruciating pain of my feet, I
never in my life felt so happy as at that moment. It is
true that the sensations I felt in the morning after pass-
ing the bridge at Kehl were ecstatic, and of a nature that
no pen can ever describe, but I really thought that my
present feelings exceeded them. I found myself lying in
a bed softer to me than down, with a mind tolerably at
peace, and Heaven knows that to be possessed of peace of
mind had lately been but very seldom my lot. I need not
say, that, after humbly offering up my most sincere and
grateful thanks to the Almighty God for His goodness



154 ADVENTURES OF CAPTAIN O'BRIEN

and protection, I fell into a most profound sleep, nor did
I once open my eyes until daylight the next morning,
when, though greatly refreshed, I found my legs exceed-
ingly stiff, and my feet sore in the extreme.

It was impossible for me to walk, and a hard job even
to get my shoes on. At last, I even accomplished this,
though with great pain and difficulty, and I at length
descended and ordered breakfast. Reflecting on the past,
the idea of ordering breakfast the very sounds of the
words made me to laugh.

The landlord was obliging and civil, and I found it
convenient, to a certain extent, to be communicative. I
observed to him, I was very stiff in all my limbs and
joints, for I had never been much accustomed to walking,
and I had taken it into my head to perform my journey
from Fraiikforty this last time, on foot. I added that I
was going to Basle in Switzerland, and wanted to get to
Friburg that evening, and would therefore be much obliged