At daylight, on the 20th, we commenced our march,
rather more dejected than the day before. In the evening
we arrived at Landiviziau, a distance of five or six leagues
from Landernau, than which it was much smaller. Here
we halted for the night, and the people were placed in
stables, barns, etc. At daybreak, on the 21st, we com-
menced our march towards Morlaix. At about two in
the afternoon, at four or five miles'* distance from the
town, we were met by a captain of gendarmerie and two
gendarmes, who, we understood afterwards, came out to
escort us into that place. They had not long joined us
when I happened to discover one of our ship's boys lifting
his hand to strike a young midshipman. I immediately
ran up and chastised the youngster with a switch I
fortunately had in my hand ; but mark my amazement !
when I beheld this blustering captain of gendarmerie
foaming at the mouth, and riding up towards me at full
speed, with his sword drawn. He appeared to be in a very
great rage, swore vehemently, and wielded his sword
repeatedly over my head. As I did not understand a
syllable of what he spoke, but was certain it must be
abusive language, from the passion he put himself into, I,
parrot-like, repeated his own expressions as well as I could ;
which irritated him to such a degree, that had not the
officer of infantry who was escorting us, and our own
officers, interfered, I do not know to what length he
might have carried the outrage. The officer of infantry
expostulated with him on the impropriety of drawing his
sword upon a naked prisoner, who could not even under-
FRENCH EQUALITY 13
stand a word that he said. He declared, and persisted in
it, that I spoke as good French as he did ; that we were
all prisoners alike ; that we were now in a country where
every man enjoyed liberty ; and he would take care that
whilst we were with him we should not tyrannise over
one another ; or, in other terms, that the officers should
be on an equality with the men. I observed that some of
the crew understood him, and that they explained his
meaning to others, which seemed to please them extremely.
We had not, however, marched more than a mile when
a circumstance took place which gave us all a fine specimen
of the liberty boasted of in this land of republicanism and
equality. A poor man, who appeared to be at least
seventy years of age, happened to be conducting a cart
along the road, and as he was approaching us this lover
of liberty called to him to turn his horses aside until we
had passed ; but the poor unfortunate old man not hearing,
and continuing his way, this brute rode up to him, and
beat and mauled him so unmercifully that the seamen
literally hissed him, and asked repeatedly, " If that were
the liberty he had so much vaunted about a few minutes
before?"
At about five in the afternoon we arrived at Morlaix.
Our people were lodged and treated for the night much as
usual ; but the officers, including myself and Mr. Mahoney,
were allowed to go to a tavern. On inquiry I found that
this redoubtable captain of the gendarmerie had been a
weaver before the Revolution, and by his perfidy had got
advanced to the rank he held. I was informed that he
visited our people in the night, and used his utmost exer-
tions to make them turn traitors and enter into the
French service. Most glad am I to say that he found all
14 ADVENTURES OF CAPTAIN O'BRIEN
his efforts fruitless ; and to the honour of our country be
it related, that every proposal he made, every temptation
he offered, was treated with disdain.
On the 22nd, about eight, we again commenced our
route, and, after a long march, arrived at a small village,
Belle-Isle-en-Terre, where we remained for the night, dis-
agreeably situated, the village being excessively poor and
small, the people extorting double prices for everything ;
however, this I have since found to be almost general
throughout France.
On the 23rd, at the usual hour, about eight, we recom-
menced our route towards Guingamp, where we arrived
tolerably early. It is a spacious town, and appeared well
peopled. We rested here during twenty-four hours, and
were pretty well treated. The country, though late in the
season, appeared beautiful. It is very fertile, and yet the
peasantry seemed excessively poor and distressed.
On the 25th, at daylight, we recommenced our march
towards St. Brieux, the last town on the sea-coast that we
had to touch at, and we arrived at about four o'clock. We
were very closely guarded, which certainly was necessary,
as the town was only a mile and a half from the sea, and
it was the intention of a great number to slip their fetters ;
however, this proved impossible. We had another guard
ordered, which we all regretted, as the officer who had con-
ducted us from Brest to this place was a perfect gentle-
man, and preserved the utmost moderation towards the
prisoners who were not, by the bye, at all times very well
behaved. I here planned an escape, but could not accom-
plish it.
At daylight, on the 26th, we recommenced our route
with our new guard, About ten, in passing close to the
NO CHANCE TO ESCAPE 15
sea, we were halted; the guard loaded their pieces,
examined their locks, and did everything to intimidate us
and overawe any desire to resist them. They appeared
to be alarmed lest we should attempt to escape, though
they were nearly as many as their prisoners in number.
It would have been a desperate business, and no vessels
were near in which 300 men could be embarked ; but the
bare possibility of our escape had nearly induced us to run
the risk.
About five we arrived at Lamballe, and on the 27th,
at eight, we were put upon our march for Rennes. We
arrived at our place of destination on the 29th. The
officers were allowed to go to a tavern, but we who were
still ranked as adjutants were conducted to the common
gaol ; and, notwithstanding a number of representations
and remonstrances conveyed to the general commandant
of the town, we were kept in confinement until the 2nd of
March, having had at Rennes what was styled a day^s
sejour. Much rather would I have continued en route, as
in this gaol we were associated with malefactors and crimi-
nals of every denomination, and, in despite of every effort,
we found ourselves covered with vermin. We had at
length another guard placed over us, joined our officers,
and were very much pleased at being once more in the
pure air.
We were now put upon our forced route to Vitre, where
we arrived at about eight o^clock on the evening of 2nd
March, having on this day walked the distance of nearly
ten leagues, or about twenty-five English miles. At this
town we met with but sorry treatment under our mortifi-
cation and distresses. We had great difficulty to gain
admittance into any inn, and still greater to procure
16 ADVENTURES OF CAPTAIN O'BRIEN
refreshments of any sort. Upon remonstrating with the
landlord about our miserable supper, and at the exorbitant
price he charged for it, he retorted by calling us " English
dogs," and told us that we ought to be glad to get any-
thing, and that the officers and public authorities were to
blame for not placing us in a stable, or in some other place
better appropriated to such brutes than an inn. If he had
his will, he added, he would very soon treat us as such
dogs deserved. In this strain he continued a strain
much less to our annoyance than his bad supper and ex-
travagant charges. This specimen of the national feeling
of France, at this period of excitement, shows that the
French thought well of English bulldogs, at least with
respect to their digesting a long bill of fare. The river
Vilaine runs through Vitre, and the town seems supplied
abundantly with fish.
At daylight, on the 3rd of March, we quitted our polite
and hospitable host, and were marched towards Laval, a
tolerably large town on the Mayenne, renowned for its
linen manufactories. We arrived about five in the evening,
and were kept some time in the market-place, as a spec-
tacle for the inhabitants, before we were shown to our
respective places for the night. Some of the people who
could speak English came to inform us that our gracious
sovereign, George the Third, had been dead several days
and that the result would be a general peace. We spurned
at their intelligence, and, much to their annoyance, assured
them that we did not give them the smallest credit.
From Laval we passed through Prez-en-Paille, a very
small town, to Alencon, where we arrived on the evening
of the 5th, and were allowed to rest for twenty-four hours.
Never was rest more needful to the desponding and weary.
THE OFFICERS DEPART 17
We had now marched many days through bad roads
during an inclement season, and under all the feelings that
deprive the traveller of the elasticity of spirits which
supports bodily health, and enables him to conquer all
difficulties, to undergo all fatigues, and to disregard all
privations. Hitherto our whole ship's company, with their
officers, had been kept together, but now even this con-
solation was to be destroyed. At Alencon the high-road
branches off in two directions, the one leading to Paris
through Versailles, the other striking off to the N.E. to
Seez, Bernay, and Rouen. Unhappily the French rulers
had ordered that what they termed " the officers " should
travel to their journey's end by the former route, whilst
the crew should proceed to their destined place of imprison-
ment by the road through Rouen. Here the mistake as to
my rank by the Minister of Marine most seriously affected
me. I was not to be included in the grade of officer.
The lieutenants, midshipmen, and other officers were
therefore ordered to march on the road to Paris, whilst
I and Mr. Mahoney, with the boatswain and gunner, as
adjutants, or no officers, were ordered to proceed with
half of the ship's company by the road through Rouen to
Charlemont, or Givet, in the department of the Ardennes.
I confess this separation grieved me extremely. Parting
with my messmates and friends in a foreign country, to-
gether with the insult and injustice of being placed in an
inferior rank to my brother officers, could not fail of pro-
ducing the depression so natural to any honourable mind.
The feeling was reciprocal on the part of my brother
officers, and we separated with regret, they on the Paris
route, and I and my companions on the more dreary road
of the north.
18 ADVENTURES OF CAPTAIN O'BRIEN
Leaving Alen^on, we passed through Seez and Bernay,
and at length arrived at Rouen, at about two in the
afternoon of the 12th. The hardships we underwent were
inconceivable.
This large and splendid city, with its magnificent
cathedral and manufactures, and with the beautiful scenery
that suiTounds it, might excite expectation and joy in the
approaching traveller, but no such sensations can be roused
in him who has been exhausted in a prison, worn out by
fatigue, disgusted by ill usage, and who has the prospect
only of a long confinement.
Upon our arrival at Rouen we were all put into the
common gaol, and it was of a character to give us not a
very favourable idea of prison management or discipline in
France. But I cannot pass over a circumstance that had
happened before our arrival. Trivial as it is in one re-
spect, it still illustrates the French character with respect
to impositions in inns, even in the provincial towns or
small villages.
About nine in the morning of the day on which we
entered Rouen, we were halted at a village on the banks of
the Seine, in order to procure refreshment, and yet all we
could get were eggs and bread. But if an egg is to be
eaten with a spoon, the spoon must bear some proportion
to the egg : here, however, we were supplied with pewter
spoons of no ordinary dimensions. I observed to the
French officer who had us in custody, that smaller spoons
would be more convenient ; and, as he could not deny a
truth so palpable, he asked the old lady of the house if
she had any. She replied in the affirmative, and, with
alacrity, opened a large coffer, and taking thereout six
silver tea-spoons, placed them on the table. With these
EGG-SPOONS 19
spoons we ate our eggs, and, having finished our poor re-
past, we called for our bill ; but what was the surprise of
us poor and exhausted prisoners when, in our wretched-
ness, we found that the old hag had charged us what in a
French village is riot a trifle a penny each for the use of
her silver spoons ! Even the French officer was quite
amazed, and asked her what she could mean by such a
demand. The old mercenary creature, who proved herself
a compound of extortion and nationality, replied with
sang froid, " You see, sir, these Englishmen are so
particular that they cannot even eat like other people.
My spoons have not been out of my chest for a number of
years, and I am determined they shall pay for the trouble
they have put me to." The officer in charge ought to
have resisted the imposition, but he made no such attempt ;
and, being defenceless, we paid our pennies, and respectfully
wished the honest old lady a good morning.
I had another opportunity in Rouen of witnessing
French shrewdness. I observed a number of brigs and
small craft laid up in the river, in a dismantled and
totally neglected state, and I could not help expressing,
to one of the Frenchmen confined with us, my astonish-
ment that those vessels should not have been equipped
and sent to sea upon some commercial venture. "And
where, sir," replied the Frenchman, " would be the use of
the attempt when the English would have the vessels
before they had completed one voyage?" This was un-
answerable.
The prospect down the Seine was grand and beautiful.
My view, however, was now changed to one of a very
different character. The transition from the delightful
scenery, with Nature's freshness and exhilaration, to the
20 ADVENTURES OF CAPTAIN O'BRIEN
miseries of a common gaol, was rapid, and much increased,
in this instance, by the gloomy countenance of the gaoler
and his dear companion of a wife. They exhibited to us
a perfect specimen of matrimonial concord, for both cor-
dially agreed in accosting us in very antipathetic terms ;
and they were still more matrimonially harmonious in
their assurances that if we did not instantly pay for two
nights' lodgings we should be placed in cells not of the
best description and with culprits of the very worst.
We could not entertain the slightest suspicion of the
veracity of these worthy people, nor could we conceive a
doubt that we were under the dominion of absolute and
irresponsible power ; and, notwithstanding we knew that
what these kind people had said was a law, we took the
liberty of asking why they demanded payment for two
nights ; and in matrimonial concord they replied, " That
we were going to enjoy one day's rest in the gaol, and
that the officer who had escorted us had assured them of
the fact." There was no resisting such logic, nor could
we maintain the position that the French Government
ought to provide for its prisoners of war ; and we were
reduced to the necessity of paying for the comfort of a
two-nights 1 lodging in gaol which we had the happiness of
occupying for only one whole day.
This French officer, whose name, to the best of my
recollection, was Galway, lived with us in all the small
towns through which we passed, professing a great deal of
friendship for us, whilst we were paying his expenses, and
repeatedly declaring that he would prevent our being con-
fined in the gaol of Rouen would be himself responsible
for us on account of our gentlemanly conduct, and by that
means enable us to remain at an inn. But, alas ! so shallow
IN ROUEN GAOL 21
was this honourable gentleman's memory that he even
forgot to leave us our last day's allowance, or prisoner's
money, of eleven sous, or fivepence halfpenny sterling, and
did not recollect to give to his successor in power over us
the certificate he had received from our officers, stating our
rank, and explaining the unfortunate mistake that had been
made upon this subject at Brest. His keeping the point
of honour, and of honesty and duty, would have been of
material service to us ; but I suppose that he did not even
recollect, after he had disposed of us, that there was a gaol
in the city, for we never saw him or heard of him after
we had been placed under bars and bolts.
It was now that we came into terms with our host and
his rib, and paid them a sum, equal to two shillings each,
for the two nights' lodging. This pleased them so much
that they were convinced that we were officers and gentle-
men ; and they conducted us, with a great deal of respect
and politeness, into an apartment in which there were two
prisoners and three beds. Two of the beds were assigned
to us. Our room-mates, we soon discovered, were debtors.
The landlady very charitably observed that she was certain
that we must be faint and in want of refreshment ; and she
kindly added that she would send us some bread and a
bottle of good wine for the present, and would procure us,
pauvres enfans ! a comfortable dinner in about an hour's
time ; and then she and her husband, after a thousand
curtsies and bows, withdrew, not forgetting to turn the
key in the door and to take it with them. We all agreed
that this was a considerate, charitable, good woman ; but
much more did we extol her when we saw the bottle of
wine and loaf of bread. The man who brought it was a
smart, active turnkey, who said, " Mistress is very busy in
22 ADVENTURES OF CAPTAIN O'BRIEN
cooking dinner for the English captains. I have had the
pleasure of waiting very frequently on British officers in
this prison they were very extravagant, and liked to live
very well," etc. But this conversation did not by any means
suit his present guests ; so we made signs to the fellow to
be off. He quitted us, taking the same precaution that
his master had done. Our finances were ebbing fast, and
we began to fear the dinner which was preparing for us
would not help to relieve them. I have already observed
that we had fivepence halfpenny per diem allowed us ; but
we were very frequently cheated even of that miserable
pittance, and had we not each procured a little cash at
Morlaix on our private bills, we should certainly have
perished of want. The table was now prepared with a
cloth, a rare decency in a common gaol, and in a short
time dinner appeared, with two bottles of wine. It con-
sisted of a little fresh fish and a small joint of boiled
mutton. The dishes were cleared in a short time, without
the smallest hope of a second course. We were anxious to
ascertain what the generous good dame could or would
demand for this sumptuous repast, and inquired of our
active waiter, who went to his mistress ; and forthwith she
very kindly replied, "not to make ourselves uneasy, it
would be time enough the next day." We accordingly
waited until the next day ; but were determined to have
nothing more until we knew what we were in debt.
Our fellow-prisoners were particularly polite and atten-
tive to us, and gave us a hint that we were greatly deceived
in our opinion of the landlady ; which we easily perceived
the next morning when we insisted upon hearing how
much we had to pay for what she called dinner and wine.
She very coolly informed us, fifteen shillings ! We imagined
BRIBERY OUTWITTED 23
it might have been about seven. However, it was in vain
to attempt to explain ; we paid the bill, and were resolved
to be more circumspect.
At about eleven o'clock some French naval officers came
to inspect our people, and gave some of them pieces of
money, with an intention to induce them to enter the
French service. This I saw, as it was publicly done in
the gaol-yard, and I happened to be looking out of the
window at the time. I desired them to be particular in
what they were about. One man, a Dane (Hendrick
Wilson, a very fine fellow, upwards of six feet high, who
had been taken by us and had volunteered into our service),
replied, " We will take what money they choose to give
us, sir, and that shall be all they will gain by coming
here."
On the morning of the 14th, about eight o'clock, a
guard of cuirassiers rode into the yard. The gaoler was
very expeditious in giving us notice that they came to
conduct us on our march ; so the bills were paid, and every-
thing settled to this man's and his good dame's satisfaction.
We were then conducted down into the yard and joined
by the people. The gaoler observed to the French officer
and cuirassiers that we were des bons gardens. This
officer appeared to be a very affable, good kind of person,
of the true old French school before the character of the
inhabitants had been demoralised by the Revolution. He
informed us that Mr. Galway, his predecessor, had left
him no certificates ; but he assured us that with him it
should make no difference. All matters being arranged,
we commenced our march towards Amiens, where we
arrived, after a fatiguing march through the towns of
Neufchatel and Aumale, on the 16th of March.
24 ADVENTURES OF CAPTAIN O'BRIEN
Our humane officer was as good as his word. In the
small villages between Rouen and Amiens he always took
us to an inn and dined with us himself ; but in Amiens he
could not prevent our being put into the gaol. He,
however, came frequently to see us, and remained with us
for some time. Understanding that there was an English-
man, a Mr. S. Pratt, who kept an eating-house in this
city, we sent to inform him that there were some of his
countrymen, prisoners of war in the gaol, who wished to
speak to him ; but the only answer we received was that
he was busy. However, he sent Mrs. Pratt, who even shed
tears at seeing the distressed condition of her poor, dear
countrymen.
This benevolent Christian appeared overpowered by the
kindness so natural to her sex, and by a generosity, for
the display of which she possessed a peculiar eloquence,
she assured us that " if she had it in her power she would
give all the seamen shoes and stockings, of which they
stood so much in need, and a good dinner that she
would ; but, at all events, she would go and instantly get
a good dinner for us, poor, dear creatures ! for we must be
famished." To this she added a great many similar tender
expressions.
She took a cordial leave of each of us, and said that she
would not come again until late in the evening, for fear of
her visits being noticed ; but she assured us that an ex-
cellent dinner should be sent as soon as possible to her
poor, dear countrymen. In about an hour we received a
small roasted leg of mutton, without any vegetables, with
two knives and forks, a little salt in a paper, and two
bottles of very inferior wine. We expected to have the
opportunity in the evening of expressing to the lady in
COSTLY SYMPATHY 25
person our sense of the excellence of the dinner; but
she never came near her " dear, dear countrymen ! " She
took care, however, to send her man with the bill, the
charges of which exceeded those of the gaoler's wife at
Rouen !
CHAPTER III
Departure from Amiens Arrival at Albert Our French officer's
delicacy and liberality A civic feast at Bapaume Effects of
champagne on French aldermen A separation from our kind
conductor A new escort A forced march to Cambray Pitiable
state and severe sufferings of the seamen Entrance into Cam-
bray Imprisonment Landrecies, Avesnes, Hirson A billet
upon the inhabitants Rocroy A brutal landlord The rob-
bery and abuse of prisoners Givet Charlemont A description
of the fortifications An escape of prisoners A fruitless pursuit
Generosity of the French commandant Private lodgings
A Jacobin landlady Exhausted funds The 4th of June
Honours done to King George the Third's birthday Roast
beef and plum pudding French terrors of insurrection The
difference between taking off and only touching hats in saluting
men in authority Good news A joyful departure in a cart
for Verdun.
AT length the destined hour arrived for our leaving this
celebrated city and for pursuing our forced and cheerless
marches to the place of our imprisonment. Accordingly,
at about eight in the morning of the 17th of March, St.
Patrick's day, a day of great festivity in my native isle, we
were put en route, and we arrived at the little town of
Albert, in the department of the Somme, at five in the
afternoon. Here we were halted for the night. The next
morning our kind officer astonished us by a most elegant
breakfast, consisting of everything that the small town
could supply. We had made it a point never to allow