University of Calif ornia Berkeley
TOUR OF T}iE
FROM THE NUTMEG STATE
TO THE GOLDEN GATE
BY E. B. EVERITT
PUBLISHED BY THE
I I hi;/
ST. ELMO COMMANDERY
No. 9, K. T.
AND THEIR LADIES
THIS LITTLE RECORD OF A TOUR
From the Nutmeg State
To the Golden Gate
IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED
CO N.TE N TS.
CHAPTER I. 1 1
CHAPTER II. 22
CHAPTER III. - 29
CHAPTER IV. 36
CHAPTER V. - - 43
CHAPTER VI. 50
CHAPTER VII. - 61
CHAPTER VIII. - 81
CHAPTER IX. - - 94
CHAPTER X. 104
CHAPTER XI. - - 115
CHAPTER XII. 124
CHAPTER XIII. . \^
CHAPTER XIV. 138
CHAPTER XV. - 164
CHAPTER XVI. 170
CHAPTER XVII. - - 181
CHAPTER XVIII. - 194
CHAPTER XIX. - - 206
THE TOUR OF THE ST, ELMO PARTY THROUGH THE
NEW ENGLAND STATES, BRITISH PROVINCES,
MICHIGAN, INDIANA, ILLINOIS, MISSOURI,
KANSAS, COLORADO, NEW MEXICO,
ARIZONA, CALIFORNIA, NEVADA,
UTAH, WYOMING, NEBRASKA
A JOURNEY OF NEARLY TEN THOUSAND MILES AND
EVERY MILE A PLEASURE.
TOUR OF THE ST. ELMO'S,
On the morning of July 23, 1883, the palace
excursion cars, " CITY OF WORCESTER" and
" CHARLES B. PRATT," were stationed at the
railroad depot, Meriden, Conn., where they
were visited and admired during the day by
These models of convenience and comfort
were built by the Worcester Excursion Car
Co. ; are sumptuously furnished, and roll along
with the least possible jolting. The large
windows are double and supplied with screens
of very fine wire. The weight of the two is
equal to that of three Pullmans. Both are
twelve-wheel coaches and considered either as
sleeping or dining cars are unexcelled. They
are convertible in a twinkling into the easiest,
TOUR OF THE ST. ELMO'S.
cosiest drawing-rooms imaginable. Each has
a kitchen with excellent range, and convenient
pantry, while underneath are lockers and refrig-
erators. The smoking rooms, baggage rooms,
wash rooms and state rooms are in keeping
with the other elegant appointments. Each
coach is accompanied by a capable cook, a
porter and a waiter. In these two elegant
palace cars the traveling party are certain of
restful comfort while en route.
Sir Knight S. W. Cummings, general pas-
senger agent of the Central Vermont railroad,
located at St. Albans, Vt, and Mr. S. W.
Manning, New England agent of the Atchi-
son, Topeka and Santa Fe railroad, located at
Boston ; laboring together in the interest of
the party, procured the publication of a thirty-
two page itinerary and guide-book. The work
was admirably done by the American Bank
Note Engraving Co. of New York, under the
direction and supervision of these capable and
Here is given exact time of arrival at and
departure from every point in the trip.
The chief points of interest and the various
attractions are also described, the whole printed
on heavy toned paper, each page emblazoned
with Knight Templar emblems and the cov-
ers illuminated with an original design bearing
the name of the commandery. Every mem-
ber of the party is presented with a sufficient
number for distribution. A synopsis of this
elegant itinerary is also published.
The grand event of the 22d TRIENNIAL
CONCLAVE of the Grand Encampment of the
U. S. of 1883, at SAN FRANCISCO, CAL., calls
for numbers of Knights Templar badges, cards,
emblems, etc. The various preparations for
this grand trip have been going on for three
Sir Knight E. C. Birdsey, Deputy Grand
Commander of Connecticut, has been indefati-
gable in his labors during that time. His care-
ful thought and earnest work have shaped the
TOUR OF THE ST. ELMO'S.
arrangements. Sir Knight L. E. Coe, past
Eminent Commander of St. Elmo, has also
labored faithfully to make the occasion a suc-
cess. Others have of course given to the
enterprise thought and labor. The prepara-
tions are absolutely perfect. The eventful
Monday, July 23d, sees the various tourists
busily engaged in preliminaries. For half an
hour before the arrival of the 3.57 train, the
excursionists were kept busy bidding their
scores of friends good-bye. All was bustle
and merriment on board the coaches as an
extra engine drew them down the track and
they were attached. The train slowly moves
away amid the waving of hands, hats and
handkerchiefs from the coaches and from the
hundreds on the platform, then, gradually
increasing its speed, curves around the bend
of the track and the Knights Templar and
their ladies bid Meriden adieu, expecting to
return when the leaves begin to fall.
The synopsis of itinerary is as follows :
SYNOPSIS OF ITINERARY.
PILGRIMAGE FROM MERIDEN, CONNECTICUT, TO
SAN FRANCISCO, CALIFORNIA,
Twenty- Second Triennial Conclave of the Grand Encampment of
the United States, August 2ist t 1883,
In Excursion Hotel Cars " C. B. Pratt," and " City of Worcester.''
Monday, July 23 Leave Meriden via Springfield, for Montreal,
P. Q., at 3.57 P. M.
Tuesday, July 24 Carriage rides in Montreal and excursion
through Lachine Rapids.
Wednesday, July 25 In Toronto, Ont., 11:30 A.M. till 3:35 P.M.
Niagara Falls at 6:40 p. M.
Thursday, July 26 Niagara Falls. Leave at 1:00 P. M.
Friday, July 27 Arrive at Chicago, 8:00 A.M. Carriage rides.
Leave at 12:35 P- M -
Saturday, July 28 Kansas City at 9:45 A. M., and leave for Den-
ver, via Pueblo.
Sunday, July 29 Arrive at Denver and spend the day.
Monday, July 30 Excursion to mines of Central City and Black
Tuesday, July 31 In Denver. Leave at 2:30 p. M. for Colorado
Springs. Arrive at 6:00 p. M.
Wednesday, Aug. i Carriage ride to Manitou, Garden of the
Gods, etc. Leave at 6:00 p. M.
Thursday, Aug. 2 Excursion from Pueblo through Grand Canon.
Leave Pueblo at 8:40 p. M.
Friday, Aug. 3 Arrive at Las Vegas Hot Springs, N. M., 3:05 P.M.
Saturday, Aug. 4 Leave Las Vegas Hot Springs at 12:05 P.M.
Arrive at Santa Fe, N. M., at 6:50 P. M.
Sunday, Aug. 5 At Santa Fe.
TOUR OF THE ST. ELMO'S.
Monday and Tuesday, Aug. 6 and 7 En route through New
Mexico and Arizona, arriving at Los Angeles, 4:45 r. M.
Wednesday and Thursday, Aug. 8 and 9 Carriage rides from
Los Angeles to orange groves and vineyards. Leave Aug. 9,
at 5:15 P. M.
Friday, Aug. 10 Arrive at Madera 6:43 A.M. Stage for the
Yosemite. Arrive at Clark's 7:00 p. M.
Saturday, Aug. n Leave Clark's for Yosemite, arriving at noon.
Sunday, Aug. 12 In Yosemite.
Monday, Aug. 13 Leave Yosemite for Big Trees, and spend the
night at Clark's.
Tuesday, Aug. 14 Leave Clark's 6:00 A. M., and arrive at Madera
at 6:00 P.M.
Wednesday, Aug. 15 Leave Madera 6:43 A.M., and arrive at San
Francisco at 2:40 p. M.
Thursday, Aug. 16, to Friday, Aug. 24 In San Francisco with
headquarters at Baldwin Hotel. Excursions at the pleasure
of the party to Monterey, Santa Cruz, the Geysers, Petrified
Friday, Aug. 24 Leave San Francisco via Sacramento, 3:30 P.M.
Saturday, Aug. 25 En route through the Sierras and Nevada.
Sunday, Aug. 26 Spend the day at Salt Lake City.
Monday, Aug. 27 En route through Utah and Wyoming Ter.
Tuesday, Aug. 28 En route through the Rocky Mountains.
Wednesday, Aug. 29 En route through Nebraska, arriving at
Omaha 3:35 p. M.
Thursday, Aug. 30 En route through Iowa and Illinois, arriving
at Chicago, 2:15 p. M.
Friday, Aug. 31 En route through Michigan and Ontario.
Saturday, Sept. i En route from Montreal to Meriden, arriving
home at 9:20 p. M.
LIST OF THE TOURISTS,
OFFICIAL LIST OF MEMBERS OF ST. ELMO TOURIST PARTY.
R. . Sir H. WALES LINES, P. G. C. Executive Committee.
V. E. Sir ELI C. BIRDSEY, D.G. C. Master of Transportation.
E. Sir E. B. COWLES, E. C. Chairman Finance Committee.
E. Sir WM. H. MILLER. P. E. C.Menu Committee.
E. Sir E. J. DOOLITTLE, P. E. C. Chairman Executive
E. Sir LEVI E. COE, P. E. C. Treasurer.
Sir WILBUR F. DAVIS Genera! Secretary.
Sir CHARLES S. PERKINS, Rec. Finance Committee.
Sir E. B. EVERITT, J. W. Historian.
Sir JOHN W. COE Commissary.
Sir REUBEN T. COOK Commissary.
Sir N. F. GRISWOLD Menu Committee.
Sir W. A. KELSEY Menu Committee.
Sir A. B. MATHER Amusement Committee.
Sir J. FRANK PRATT Quartermaster.
Sir H. H. STRONG Commissary.
Sir F. STEVENSON, Jr. Finance Committee.
Sir GEO. S. TAYLOR Time Keeper.
Mrs. ELI C. BIRDSEY, Mrs. JOHN W. COE,
Mrs. E. B. COWLES, Mrs. REUBEN T. COOK,
Mrs. E. J. DOOLITTLE, Mrs. N. F. GRISWOLD,
Mrs. LEVI E. COE, Mrs. W. A. KELSEY,
Mrs. WILBUR F. DAVIS, Mrs. H. H. STRONG,
Mrs. E. B. EVERITT, Mrs. F. STEVENSON, Jr.
Mrs. GEORGE S. TAYLOR.
TOUR OF THE ST. ELMO'S.
The party as originally made up were all
en route with the exception of Mr. and Mrs.
Wilbur F. Davis, the sudden illness of their
only child having detained them. The follow-
ing quotation from a local editorial speaks of
an elegant reception at Springfield, Mass.:
" Aside from the disappointment occasioned
by the absence of Mr. and Mrs. Davis, a feel-
ing that will be increased to grief when the
sad news of the death of little Stanley reaches
them, the St. Elmo tourists had an exceedingly
pleasant beginning to their journey. A party
of Meriden friends accompained them as far
as Springfield, where they were met by the
Springfield Knights Templar who had tendered
them a " bon voyage" banquet. About sixty
Springfield people, Sir Knights and their
wives, had gathered at the Massasoit house and
an hour or so was delightfully spent in a social
way in the parlors before the company ad-
journed to the dining room. The Springfield
Sir Knights treated their guests right royally.
"BON VOYAGE" BANQUET.
The banquet was a very elaborate one, and a
merrier party never sat down to a feast.
" Following is a list of the Springfield Sir
Knights and their ladies :
O. K. MERRILL, E. C.
S. B. SPOONER, P. E. C.
E. P. CHAPIN, G. C. G., of Mass, and R. I.
A. F. BALL.
C. A. CALL, C. G.
A. C. HARVEY, Warder, and lady.
C. J. SANDERSON, Rec., and sister.
J. H. ROGERS, S. W. B., and wife.
G. W. BOWKER.
H. M. PHILLIPS, Mayor of Springfield.
F. E. CARPFNTER.
E. P. KENDRICK, Pres't. Common Council of City.
C. C. SPELLMAN, P. E. C., and wife.
D. E. TAYLOR and wife.
A. B. WEST.
J. E. SHIPMAN, Prelate, and sister.
J. C. Ltnz and wife.
GEO. N. PARSONS, J. W., and wife.
T. T. DAVEE, Generalissimo, and wife.
N. W. FISK and wife.
H. C. LEE and wife.
G. F. ADAMS.
W. H. GILBERT.
" Sir Knight H. Wales Lines returns to
Meriden, being detained by business and will
overtake the party at Denver.
TOUR OF THE ST. ELMO'S.
" The tourists left Springfield on the 8.15
train, via the Connecticut River road, for
A series of letters from the historian of the
party will tell the story of the journey. Quota-
tions from the itinerary will also be used.
"Our journey during the night (over which
we shall return by daylight) will be as follows :
through the beautiful Connecticut Valley with
its charming views of mountain scenery, and
the historic points of interest along the banks
of the Connecticut river ; from Windsor over
the OLD RELIABLE CENTRAL VERMONT RAIL-
ROAD, which was opened to Montpelier in 1849,
and extended to St. Johns in 1862, there mak-
ing connection for Montreal with the Grand
Trunk Railway. The deep, fertile valleys,
gently sloping uplands, verdant hillsides, cloud-
capped summits of the Green Mountains, com-
bine to furnish scenery unsurpassed in this
country in peaceful beauty and grandeur.
THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY.
Fresh surprises greet the traveler on every
hand, until, at the end of a day's journey, one
retraces his way over the mountains, through
the valleys, over the rushing torrents, past the
peaceful, prosperous farms, where contentment
reigns supreme, along the fertile meadows,
beside the loveliest of lakes, through pros-
perous villages and rocky gorges ; and the
mind is lost in wonder that the skill of man
should have placed it in one's power to witness
such magnificent panoramas with ease and com-
TOUR OF THE ST. ELMO'S.
HOTEL ON WHEELS, July 24.
Our first evening was pleasantly passed.
With the generous entertainment of the
Springfield Sir Knights as the natural topic of
conversation, together with a discussion of the
morrow's program, there was no particular
dearth of speech. Everybody was merry and
hopeful. Already we began to feel at home
in our luxurious coaches, and passed from one
to the other with the easy freedom and air of
experienced travelers. Somebody started
mathematical puzzles, then a number of pre-
posterous conundrums were given out, a few
had confidence enough in the good nature of
the party to perpetrate a lot of bad puns, some
displayed genuine wit in repartee, one or two
ventured to sing, and everybody laughed at the
slightest provocation. It was a happy party,
congenial and thoroughly friendly. The begin-
ning of our journey was delightfully auspi-
The ladies were given the exclusive use of
their car at a fairly early hour and they claimed
this morning that they all went to sleep with
commendable promptitude. Of course, no
one would doubt their entire veracity upon
this subject, but their proud boasts came pain-
fully close upon the heels of the complaints of
the Sir Knights, who, it must be confessed,
did not seek tired nature's sweet restorer until
after midnight. A sleepless hour or so had
passed when the mellifluous voice of the Judge
broke the silence with " Say, they are switch-
ing us to the rear, 5 ' and the bumping and
thumping which followed proved the truth of
his assertion. So at the end of the long train
we were whirled away through the darkness
toward the St. Lawrence. It is known that
three or four Sir Knights did sleep the evi-
dence was too sonorously conclusive to be dis-
puted. That genial railroad man, Mr. Man-
TOUR OF THE ST. ELMOS.
ning, remarked reassuringly, "They won't
snore so after they get used to it." It is to be
sincerely hoped that Mr. Manning is a genuine
A cruel report is also current that there was
snoring in the ladies' car. " Keep it dark."
Just before 5 o'clock this morning the porter
entered the car. " Wish you a merry Christ-
mas," was the greeting of a sleepy Sir Knight.
In a few minutes there was a scramble for the
wash room, and our first day's life upon the
rail was begun.
Good Deacon Taylor, of Chicopee, became
the center of an admiring group as he flour-
ished a spiral looking instrument which some
of the spectators called a corkscrew. What
was he going to do with it, we wondered. Our
curiosity was soon agreeably satisfied, for the
little twisted piece of steel proved the open
sesame, in the hands of the expert deacon, to
a bottle of " Chicopee cider," an effervescing,
sparkling, invigorating fluid, so some of them
NE W ENGLA ND SCENER Y.
who tasted it said. The deacon is a great addi-
tion to the party ; we can hardly be lonesome
while he's around.
The scenery on every side is very attractive,
a narrow valley shut in by peculiar hills ; in
changing view a beautiful river with the
romantic name " Winooski," successions of
sharp rolls, rugged rocks, small cultivated fields,
here and there a neat house, deep gorges, shady
ravines, inviting little nooks, and over and
amid all, the light curling mist assuming weird
fantastic shapes pierced by the level shafts of
the rising sun. Freshness, attractiveness and
loveliness everywhere. Approaching St. Albans
the view widens occasionally ; a far-reaching
stretch ; then beautiful Magnam bay flashes
back the glory of the rising sun. About St.
Albans the country is somewhat flat. We
skirt the shore of Lake Champlain and can
only be induced to turn from the charms with-
out by the counter-charms of a tip-top break-
fast, evolved by some species of magic from
TOUR OF THE ST. ELMO'S.
the inner-consciousness of the tiny quarters
where the cooks reign supreme. Such cooks !
Our tables were up to the mark of first-class
hotel-fare. The early day is beautiful. Ample
justice is done and a lately hungry party dis-
perses for diversion pleased and satisfied.
These cars of the Worcester Excursion Car
Company prove to be perfect in all their ap-
pointments. What frolics we enjoyed ! A
Sir Knight is seated at the piano. Songs,
choruses and impromptu rounds with a grand
jig executed by Sir Knight John Coe (he is a
high stepper), bring out peals of merry laugh-
ter. We glance betimes at finely cultivated
farms, the busy haymakers the clustering
happy faces at the homes we swiftly pass. The
view is cut off now and then by seemingly
interminable trains of freight cars. Still the
landscape widens, shut in by the distant moun-
tain tops. We are blessed with delightfully
cool weather this morning. Let us hope it is
as cool at home as we find it here in Canada.
We reach Montreal, with its narrow, tortu-
ous streets and wide, shady avenues, substantial
and slow-going, with costly buildings and
queer old rookeries. We visit Mount Royal,
from which the city takes its name and look on
the grand panorama, famous as it is rare.
From the Itinerary.
" Upon the approach to Montreal the train
passes through the tube of the famous Victoria
Bridge. This great structure is one and a
quarter miles in length, or, with its approaches,
nearly one and three-quarter miles, and cost
nearly seven millions of dollars. The tube for
the railway is sixty feet above the summer
level of the St. Lawrence River, and rests on
twenty-four piers, which are placed two hun-
dred and forty-two feet apart, except in the
centre, where the span is three hundred and
thirty feet. The view of the Canadian me-
tropolis is very fine, the city occupying the
beautiful slopes of Mount Royal. Among the
prominent objects seen are the twin towers of
TOUR OF THE ST. ELMO'S.
Notre Dame, the dome of the Bonsecours
Market, Christ Church Cathedral, the unfin-
ished St. Peter's Cathedral, McGill College,
and several mammoth Catholic hospitals and
educational institutions, including the Grey
Nunnery, or L'Hopital General deles Soeures
Grises. After leaving Montreal the railway
skirts the north bank of the River St. Law-
rence for a long distance, affording many
glimpses of the great stream, with its rapids
and beautiful islands. St. Anne, Cornwall,
Prescott, Brockville, Kingston and Cobourg
are passed through before Toronto is reached.'*
HOTEL ON WHEELS, July 25.
We were en route for Lachine at 5 r. M.,
embarking on the staunch steamer " Prince of
Wales " for a pleasant sail down the St. Law-
rence. " Shooting the rapids " is to a timid
person quite an exciting trip. The broad
surface boiling and seething from shore to
distant shore, the slope of the river, the down-
ward pitch of the prow, the sudden drop of the
deck, the huge waves white with foam meet-
ing the plunging craft again and again, the
skill with which the men at the wheel turn
her hither and thither, bringing the delighted
passengers safely into the smoother waters
below, combine to give zest and peculiar charm
to running the rapids. We were accompanied
by Sir Knight S. W. Cummings, general pas-
senger agent of the Central Vermont, and S.
W. Manning, New England agent of the
TOUR OF THE ST. ELMO'S.
Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe. These gen-
tlemen furnished carriages for a drive after the
pleasant sail. They have done all in their
power to make the pilgrimage of St. Elmo a
success. Both have repeatedly visited Meriden.
To their labors we owe our elegant itinerary,
published and presented with the compliments
of the roads over which we pass. Mr. Man-
ning sent checks for our baggage and came to
Meriden in person to start with us, and ac-
companies us as far as Pueblo, Colorado. We
appreciate his wise suggestions and valuable
services every day. To these two excellent
gentlemen we owe a debt of gratitude, and
can safely recommend to their hands any who
may contemplate a visit to the Golden Gate.
The evening brought a favor from the rail-
road. We were given a special train from
Montreal to Toronto, 333 miles, an extra
engine being furnished. The evening until
our departure at 10 o'clock was very pleasantly
passed in our quarters in company with both
the above mentioned gentlemen and other
friends. Among our visitors we were glad to
meet Miss Alice Porter, of Meriden.
During the night each luxurious couch was
occupied by a thoroughly sound sleeper. "The
seven sleepers of Ephesus" were nowhere. By
the way, our couches are 1 2 inches wider than
the berths of an ordinary sleeping car. The
morning of the 25th dawned cool and lovely.
We were speeding through a farming region,
so fine as to elicit expressions of surprise. On
our left we soon descried the bright blue
Ontario. The morning sunlight on its unruf-
fled waters draws out long lines of varying
shades, like unrolled ribbons. Here a narrow
band of deep, dark blue and by its side a line
of glimmering pearly white. A short stop at
Cobourg calls up pleasant words concerning Sir
Knight H. Wales Lines. He will appreciate
the allusion. The view of New Castle as seen
from the windows on our right is charming.
The ladies having joked the Sir Knights on the
TOUR OF THE ST. ELMO'S.
subject of cigars, have procured a supply of
chewing gum. The result no one can foresee.
I have just heard a laughable incident
connected with our ride to Mount Royal. Sir
Knight John Coe mounted the driver's seat
and as soon as the coachman had closed the
door drove off at full speed. He kept the
poor fellow to his best trotting time for quite
a distance amid the cheers and jeers of the hack-
men and others, who appreciated the situation.
To our genial traveling companion, who is
a general favorite, we are again indebted. Mr.
Manning has just furnished us carriages for a
ride about Toronto. It is a beautiful city with
noticeable quaint features. Its streets, finely
laid out, generally at right angles, are broad
and shaded. Plank sidewalks are universal
and plank curbs general. College street, 200
feet wide, long and straight, with lawns in the
center and on each side, thick with fine trees
and beds of flowers, leads to Queen's Park,
which is large, pleasant and quaint. Horticul-
tural garden with its splendid buildings is
beautiful. Well kept grounds abound, and
one is delighted at every turn. The educa-
tional institution is noticeable for its extensive,
fine and elegant grounds. Here are seventy-
eight churches and many very fine public build-
ings. The churches are in the main exception-
ally elegant and large. Several railroads center
here. There is also a spacious bay and well-
sheltered harbor. The site of the town was
selected in 1794 by Governor Simcoe and
called York until 1834, at which time it became
incorporated. It was the capital of Upper
Canada till 1841. It was the site of the
united government alternately with Quebec,
from 1849 to 1858, and has been a capital of
Ontario since 1867.
In roaming about, Sir Knight Cook was
pointed out as Webb, the swimmer. The news
of the death of Captain Webb does not seem
to have been received yet. Among the favors
extended let me here mention a telegram from
TOUR OF THE ST. E LAW'S.
Pueblo, Col., inviting St. Elmo to attend a re-
ception and banquet at the hands of the Pueblo
Commandery. This day also came to hand a
telegram from St. Elmo Commandery of
Paola, Kan., to attend a reception and to break-
fast with them at Kansas City. The St. Elmos
of Paola travel 43 miles to Kansas City to ex-
tend this knightly courtesy. They selected
their name in our honor, and in token of ap-
preciation ; our commandery upon receiving
from Paola notification of this high honor,
sometime since presented and forwarded an
elegant " libation set." The parent accepts
with great pleasure the compliment tendered.
Between Toronto and Hamilton, Sir Knight
John Coe was presented with a testimonal with
appropriate speech-making. The Sir Knight
has searched in vain for a Dude Hat. His
friends found a parasol fitted to be worn on
the head, and surprised him by a public cor-
onation. He declares he will wear it during
the trip. It should be seen to be appreciated.
At Toronto we were favored with a visit from