Mr. John M. Blackburn, superintendent of
the manufactory of the Meriden Silver Plate
Company at this place, who lately removed
here from Meriden. It is worthy of note that
we have not suffered from heat and have no dust.
Our windows are fitted with closely woven
screens of very fine wire, but to-day these are
out, as the fresh green grass close to the track
prevents all trouble. There is abundant evi-
dence of plentiful rains.



35



TOUR OF THE ST. ELMO'S.



CHAPTER IV.

HOTEL ON WHEELS, July 26.
Our hotels are stationed for the night at the
Canadian entrance of the supension bridge,
where the air is tremulous with the ceaseless
thunder of grand Niagara. We are met here
by Mr. Wm. E. Hoyt, general passenger agent
of the Chicago and Alton railroad, whom his
friend Mr. Manning introduced to each mem-
ber of the party. He has made ample arrange-
ments for our comfort over his road. Our
party scatters ; some go over to the American
side and some visit the Clifton house on the
Canadian side. The glory of the falls and the
rapids dawns on each, and on some for the first
time. We retire " in good order" with
promise of an early breakfast. After experi-
encing the sleep of the just, the first surprise
of the day is the presentation of a fine cane to
Sir Knight E. C. Birdsey. It was the gift of



NIAGARA.

Mr. Hoyt of the Chicago and Alton. Our
breakfast comes on time, as usual. By the
way, I must repeat : our meals are superb
the equal of those of the very best hotels. We
sing the high praises of the Worcester Ex-
cursion Car company for furnishing us two
such cooks. Our three quatermasters, Sir
Knights Coe, Cook and Strong, have sup-
plied carefully selected material and these
splendid cooks know exactly what to do with
it. We find the carriage riding and sight-see-
ing keep all hands employed until the hour for
the rendezvous at our "home."

How well the Iroquois named the world's
wonder " Niagara" (Thunder of waters).
No language can describe it. Two millions of
tons hurled each minute down the fearful
chasm. Every time one sees it the everlast-
ing impression of the sublime deepens. Two
suspension bridges span the boiling flood below
the falls, and a third is well under way. We
visit the terrible whirlpool where the daring

37



TOUR OF THE ST. ELMO'S.

Webb went down yesterday. From thence to
the Burning Spring, at the head of the upper
rapids, all is awfully grand. The illuminated
fountains at evening in Prospect park are very
beautiful. Our return to Hamilton, Ont.,
brings our record of miles up to 834. We find
our friend John E. Parker, formerly of Meri-
den, at present superintendent of the Meriden
Britannia company's extensive branch factories
located here. Stephen M. Russell and Charles
C. Foot, formerly of Meriden, also came to
meet us at the depot. It is a great pleasure
thus to meet old friends. En route again,
speeding through the provinces towards Michi-
gan, the party beguiles the time with games
and conundrums ; some of the latter were
original and occasioned much mirth. We are
passing through a country at once presenting
indications of newness and age. We find at
London, Ont, more railroad cars than any of
us ever saw at once. We meet wonderfully
long trains of cattle. The weather is still cool

38



FOR T ED WARD FERR Y.

and dust is not troubling us. The presentation
of an engraved napkin ring this afternoon
called out peals of laughter. Our cars are so
large that the entire party can easily be accom-
modated in either. We are notified when there's
fun ahead. The engraving upon this ring was
done on the train. It is unique. This is de-
cidedly a happy party, enjoying each passing
hour. At last we reach Sarnia, on the river St.
Clair. At Fort Edward our train is run out to
an immense ferry boat. Seventy-two cars
crossed in less than one hour. One hundred
and eight cars can be ferried over per hour,
each hour in the day. Just as we start
across we are favored with a visit from W. H.
Pettibone, general superintendent of Chicago
and Grand Trunk railroad, accompained by R.
Luttrell, superintendent at this point. The
general superintendent came up from Chicago
to meet us. We are promised every attention.
Mr. Luttrell invited the entire party to ascend
to the upper deck and directed attention to the

39



TOUR OF THE ST. ELMO'S.

chief points of interest "as we sailed." He has
also referred to our Itinerary, and offers on our
return trip a fishing expedition. He will fur-
nish us with fine boats and all necessary tackle.

At last having bidden the cross of St.
George adieu we salute the beautiful stars and
stripes. What loads of fun. We celebrate
the occasion with games which make the roof
ring. If hearty laughter promotes digestion,
then good-bye dyspepsia.

One half the entire width of the car being
cleared we organize a grand ball, our useful
companion Mr. Manning as prompter. There
is no lack of exercise. We have room for
eight couples and spectators. Among the
musical instruments, quite an attraction is a tin
pan and a shoe played with rare skill by His
Honor Sir Knight Doolittle. Sir Knight
Perkins also shows remarkable proficiency in
his great skillet and knuckles act. We pro-
pose to organize a minstrel troup, San Fran-
cisco minstrels, jr.



COURT OF JUSTICE,

The announcement is made that the ladies'
car is ready, and bidding them adieu we pro-
ceeded to open court. Case follows case, and
when Sir Knight Judge Coe comes in as an
interested party, his honor the mayor occupies
the wool-sack and dispenses " justice." The
decisions of this court ought to go on record.
There seems to be considerable chance-ry about
it. Business is rushed and the docket cleared
before turning in for the night.

We are on a special train again with general
superintendent Pettibone. St. Elmo is whirl-
ed in advance of the regular, over the level
line, a mile a minute. Great spikes, what a
spin ! The speed is exciting. We can't sleep
much, but most of us are a little ahead on sleep.

The morning of the 27th shows us the
eastern sky glowing as if it were the concave
of a huge pearly shell. The air is delicious
and we make ready for Chicago.

The country is mainly a vast plain, the
houses generally small. As we near Chicago we

41



TOUR OF THE ST. ELMO'S.

note the strange custom of planting a single row
of trees around a small plot, enclosing a house
and barn. These are mainly poplars and look
lonesome in the hundreds of shrubless acres.
Other trees grow finely. The dark rich foliage
is proof that the entire region might be made a
veritable garden of Eden. Near the city, cab-
bage patches are seen by the square mile.
There's a pretty shepherdess leaning on her mop.
But I must stop, for here is Chicago.

Our route has crossed the state of Michigan
and the upper portion of Indiana.



BKAIDWOOD.



CHAPTER V.

HOTEL ON WHEELS, July 27.

At Chicago we are met by Mr. James
Charlton, general passenger and ticket agent
of the Chicago and Alton railroad, and Mr.
John M. Gates, general traveling agent of the
same road, both residents of Chicago. These
gentlemen will accompany our party over
their railroad to Kansas City. They had set
aside one of their luxurious dining palace cars
and invited the knights and their ladies to a
sumptuous repast. They have also put into
our lockers a fine present for the party. We
are off during a shower which settles the dust
question effectually.

In crossing the state of Illinois we pass
through Braidwood, where the Diamond mine
disaster occurred recently. It remains to-day
as at the close of the ineffectual attempts to
find the bodies of the miners. The road over

43



TOUR OF THE ST. ELMO'S.

which we pass has a branch of 100 miles run-
ning through the coal district. The Chicago
and Alton passes through an attractive region.
There is more of variety in the landscape.
We pass through fields of corn sometimes ex-
tending as far as the eye can reach in either
direction from the track. Trees of various
kinds abound and the land is productive. East
from Chicago there are no towns within forty
miles on any of the railroad lines. One line
runs fifty-seven miles before reaching a town.
The land is not only flat but inclined to be
marshy. West from Chicago one strikes towns
at once. The management of the Chicago
and Alton is in striking contrast with that of
many roads. The regular train to which our
cars are attached consists of an elegant smok-
ing car, one day-coach, two reclining-chair
cars, one Pullman sleeper and one dining-car.
The reclining-chair cars are worthy of note.
There is room for forty-four passengers. The
chairs can be easily set at any desired angle.

44



CHICAGO AND ALTON.

For reclining, the top of the back comes for-
ward, forming an easy pillow for the head.
Having reclined, I am able to state that they
are the easiest car seats in the world. For
these this company makes to passengers no
extra charge think of that ! In each car is
also a smoking room, and a cosy wash room
with every convenience. The coupling is
double and absolutely proof against telescoping.
In the delightful reclining chair cars of the
Chicago and Alton one can travel to Kansas City
with less of weariness than an ordinary car would
cause in one-fourth the distance. The dining car
is the prettiest and most complete I ever saw.
The railroad managers here know how to do
things.

Near Bloomington the country becomes a
little rolling. Hedges of Osage orange are
seen, adding materially to the attractiveness
of the landscape, which is not only diversified
but bright flowers are blooming along the
track. The town of Normal is very pretty,

45



TOUR OF THE ST. ELMO'S.

and is the seat of the Normal schools and of
the State University. It might be a beautiful
town were it not for the very apparent lack of
public spirit. The cars of the Chicago and
Alton railroads are all built by the railroad
company and the manufactories located at
Bloomington are remarkable for solidity.
The immensity of the company's works may
be judged by the fact that their pay-roll here
is over $100,000 a month. The officers of the
Chicago and Alton at Bloomington, placed on
our car two large crates of fruit for the party.
Our ladies say that the people think a good
deal of Connecticut. Six large and beautiful
bouquets are also brought on board to adorn
our tables. Their fragrance fills the air. Later
the gentleman waiters from the Chicago and
Alton dining car pin a button-hole bouquet to
the coat of each Sir Knight and present one to
each lady just before we are called to our even-
ing repast. At Bloomington, in boring for
coal, at the depth of two hundred feet, an un-

4 6



KANSAS.

derground river was struck. A stand pipe and
pumping apparatus was erected and pipes to
distribute water. It is of excellent quality
and ample in quantity. At Greenville we dis-
cover a huge hill of refuse from the coal mines
on fire ; a case of spontaneous combustion.

From Itinerary.

" The Chicago and Alton railroad is the
short line between Chicago and Kansas City,
and is equipped with the finest cars in the
world. Leaving Chicago the road traverses
some of the most prosperous parts of Illinois
and Missouri, passing through the following
cities : Joliet, Bloomington and Jacksonville
in Illinois; Louisiana, Mexico, Glasgow and
Marshall in Missouri. The Mississippi River
is crossed at Louisiana, and the Missouri River
at Glasgow, Mo., by magnificent iron bridges.

" Kansas City is a large and busy city of
about 65,000 inhabitants, on the Missouri side
of the line, and one of the most important rail-
road centers in America. Some of its great

47



TOUR OF THE ST. E LAW'S.

business enterprises, like the great trans-con-
tinental railway line which stretches westward,
owe their existence largely to Boston capital.
While riding through Kansas the traveler finds
that many familiar New England names have
been bestowed upon towns by the way, one of
the earliest of which is Lawrence, so called in
honor of Amos Lawrence, of Boston. Topeka,
the capital of Kansas, is 66 miles west of
Kansas City."

"The main line of the A., T. & S. F. R. R.
extends a distance of no less than 486 miles
within the borders of this great State. The
surface of the State embraces in alternation
broad, level valleys and high, rolling prairies,
with a gradual rise towards the Rocky Moun-
tains. The eastern section is well settled and
is devoted largely to wheat and corn. The
western section, with the neighboring parts of
Colorado and Nebraska, is given up chiefly to
cattle grazing. Dodge City, 369 miles west of
Kansas City, is the chief center of the cattle



COLORADO.



business. The route in passing out of Kansas
enters Colorado, which it traverses for a con-
siderable distance. The Rocky Mountains
here come into view."



49



TOUR OF THE ST. ELMO'S.



CHAPTER VI.

HOTEL ON WHEELS, July 28.
We crossed the Illinois river in the early
hours of the night, and about midnight were
passing over the wonderful bridge spanning
the broad Mississippi. Several of the Sir
Knights stood in the doors of the cars to look
upon the mighty " Father of waters." The
morning sun smiles on the hills and dales of
Missouri. The cars free from dust, the morn-
ing cool and delicious, and the sweet sleep of
the night prepares us for the heat which the
noon-hour may perhaps have in store. We
speed along the iron road towards Kansas City.
Glendale is passed, where a short stop enables
us to look upon the water tank showing the
bullet marks of the Jesse James fight. Here
the train was in the clutches of the gang. All
seem to enjoy the immunity which Jesse James'
retirement from business affords.

50



ST. ELMO OF PA OLA.

At Independence a committee from St.
Elmo Commandery No. 22, of Paola, Kan.,
came on board. Introductions are in order,
and on reaching Kansas City we meet the dele-
gation sent to this point : Sir D. M. Ferguson,
E. Q, Sir J. F. Donahue, Gen. Sir.H. C.
Jones, C. G., Sir John Wherrell, Prel., Sir J.
B. Jobson, S. W., Sir J. S. Beason, J. W.,
Judge Sir W. R. Wagstaff, Sir A. K. Sellers,
Sir J. W. Rumby, and Sir J. L. Pettyjohn.
With these fraters is Hon. Sir Knight Plumb,
United States Senator from Kansas, and a
warm friend of Hon. Sir Knight the Senator,
O. H. Platt, of our own city. A telegram
reaches us here from E. Sir Knight H. Wales
Lines congratulating the two St. Elmo com-
manderies on this meeting. We are escorted
to a breakfast in the immense building which is
the depot for seventeen great lines. Then the Sir
Knights and their ladies repair at once to our
cars, 'accompained by Sir C. H. Wood, general
agent of the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe,

5'



TOUR OF THE ST. ELMO'S.

and Sir H. E. Moss, passenger and land agent.
The speeches are short, but the feeling is deep
and the friendships here cemented strong.
The St. Elmos of Paola, Kansas, came forty-
three miles yesterday to meet us at the threshold
of their state. They are named after us and the
two commandries feel the deepest interest each
in the other's welfare. Good-byes are said,
one Paola Sir Knight puts it thus in Missouri
parlance :

" It's hard for you'uns and we'uns to part,

When you'uns know that you'uns have got we'unses' heart."

Senator Plumb accompanies us on our trip,
and Sir Knight William H. Decker, of Las
Vegas commandery, also comes among us at
this point. We are met here by Sir Knight
Max Frost, eminent commander of Santa Fe
commandery, who is chairman of a committee
to extend to us the hospitalities of his com-
mandery. This Sir Knight also becomes a
member of our party. Me is Register of the
United States land office. It is a pleasant

5 2



THE KA W.

party swiftly skirting the shore of the Kavv and
tearing away towards the wonderful corn-fields
of eastern Kansas, corn so high as to hide a
mounted horseman and fields too extensive to
limit by the sweep of the eye. The town of
Meriden is on the line of the Atchison, Topeka
and Santa Fe railroad, not far from Kansas
City.

Kansas City is on the south side of the
Missouri river. After leaving this city, we
cross the line into the great state of Kansas.
We are peculiarly fortunate in the selection of
the route. The Kansas City people declare
unhesitatingly the Atchison, Topeka and Santa
F railroad is decidedly the best of the seventeen
lines which radiate from this center ; steel rails
throughout its length, 2289 miles, stone ballast-
ing, best cars, best hotels on the route, which
by the way are all owned by the Atchison,
Topeka and Santa Fe*, best eating-houses, and
Manning says the best looking set of men in
the world. Judging by the specimens seen,

53



TOUR OF THE ST. ELMO'S.

including our friend Manning, the facts bear
out the assertion. " He is just as good as he
looks, too." " So say we all of us so say we
all." We admire the new depot at Lawrence,
the historic city. How fertile the soil is ! Sir
Knight Mather says he has seen corn enough
to feed the world. It is a delightful land, low
hills heavily timbered, level fields which are
gigantic gardens, and fruit trees in their lusty
youth surprising their owners by the size of
their productions. We watch a diminutive
ferry taking its precious load over the muddy
waters of the Kaw (or Kansas) river ; a broad
scow, on board a vehicle with its single horse,
the mother calmly seated, carefully shielding
he* darling from the rays of the sun (a future
statesman, perhaps president, they all come
from the West), standing at the fore, evidently
ready to do and to dare, two little folks cud-
dled together near the wheel, and the strong
man with brawny bare arms wielding a pole
longer than the spire of the Corner church.

54



TOPEKA.

Now we sweep by fields again with corn to the
right of us, corn to the left of us. " Pretty
tall corn."

At Topeka, Mr. Manning points out the
extensive works of the Atchison, Topeka and
Santa Fe* railroad. Topeka, 1,000 feet above
sea level, has a population of 20,000, half of
them said to be good looking women. All
the state offices are located here, with fine
public buildings. We have lost the trees ;
the heavily wooded hills we saw further east
are not to be found. It is a treeless country
except so far as a few are planted here and
there. Near Osage City we come upon the
coal regions. In this section it is found near
the surface and is a dull looking, soft, smoky
fuel. This sort of country must make a man
long sighted, yet it is beautifully rolling, and
corn and then more corn. Lon Jeffery says
the sight of this goodly land elicited from good
brother Joseph Morse the words "The Sheen
of Queba." We are shown by Senator Plumb

55



TOUR OF THE ST. ELMO'S.

the farm of his brother, 2,000 acres, lying on
both sides of the track. At long intervals
some railroad conductor steps in. We note
they each remove the hat. Some one remarks,
11 What a contrast ! Here they take off the
hat ; at home they come in with a club."

Emporia, with t its four railroads, its beauti-
ful wide streets and its substantial buildings,
is a lively town. It possesses for us a peculiar
interest, being the home of Senator Plumb,
who has chatted so pleasantly while riding sixty
miles in our car. He kindly points out his
fine residence at our request, and shaking
hands all round bids us God-speed and good-
bye.

We do not see any lonesome hay stacks.
They are placed in families, immense stacks,
frequently thatched, bunched together, looking
in the distance like a cluster of great brown
tents.

Beyond Emporia the prairies widen away
interminably. Stony City presents a lively



"THING OF BEAUTY:'

sight. Its stock yards are full of colts ; hun-
dreds of them. On the fences are long rows
of chaps, and others standing picturesquely
around, bent on trade. The cars of the St.
Elmo's become immediately the great attrac-
tion and all necks are stretched and twisted to
get a sight. Just beyond, the prairie-plows are
turning up the furrows black as muck.

The regular excursion ticket furnished by
the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe*, is a
"thing of beauty." It is in book form bound
at the end and illuminated with Knight
Templar emblems in gold ; on the covers
an original design in brilliant colors giving a
view of the Golden Gate with the legend, " An
ocean sounding welcome to the Knights." The
loading of a wagon by machinery in a grain
field now attracts attention. We see broad
wheat fields, also large herds of cattle. One
of the ladies quotes, "A thousand cattle on a
hill." Prairie chickens put in an appearance.
Near the streams a few plover and a few long-

57



TOUR OF THE ST. ELMO'S.

legged blue heron have been seen. Windmills
are everywhere. Gangs of plow boys seated
on the wheeled plows drawn by three horses,
make things lively where the ''tickled soil"
will shortly laugh with harvest burden. Think
of straight furrows more than a mile in length.
We have passed Florence, at which point the
Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe* enters "the
happy hunting grounds." We are told that
prairie chickens and quail are abundant in the
fields, and the streams and small lakes abound
in duck and geese. " Twenty minutes for
refreshments," the well known cry ! We are
at Newton, a lively town of 5,000 inhabitants.
Our friend Manning had telegraphed ahead
and invited the entire party to dine. The
dining room is one of many owned by this tip-
top company and is as nicely fitted up as the
dinner is complete. So our cooks and waiters
are given a respite while the favor accorded
the party is enjoyed. The terrible heat proph-
esied for this day's ride has not cost us any

58



INTO COLORADO.

appreciable discomfort. This little town has
its commandery, Newton, No. 9 ; eighty mem-
bers ! A delegation appears and welcomes us.
We exchange hasty greetings and speed away
toward the Golden Gate. Beyond Newton the
level reaches are astonishers. We can see twenty
miles away, the surface like a floor, presenting
the various lines of immense tracts of different
crops, all fertile as a garden. Near Newton
we pass the first emigrant wagon, suggestive
of the olden time.

Hutchinson, the county seat, has a remark-
ably wide street, which presents a fine appear-
ance. We notice door yard fences, which are
quite an innovation. Why are not all the streets
laid out wide ? Surely there's room enough.
At Nickerson we strike the Arkansas river.
The repair shops of the Atchison, Topeka and
Santa Fe* employ a large number of men. It
is a full grown town just five years old last
September. Here is a very large round-house
strongly built of stone. A telegram from Mr.

59



TOUR OF THE ST. ELMOS.

W. F. White, general passenger and ticket
agent, to Mr. Manning, acquaints us with the
pleasing fact that Mr. Charles T. Parsons has
received telegraphic instruction to accompany
the party on our return from Denver to Peublo
and Santa Fe or Deming. We ride beside the
Arkansas river for a distance of 700 miles into
Colorado.

The ladies are enjoying the long journey
with the keenest relish. No one is weary and
all are delighted with the " solid comfort " this
mode of traveling affords.



LA JUNTA.



CHAPTER VI L

HOTEL ON WHEELS, July 29.

The gray dawn discloses level plains, with
here and there on the right a silvery sugges-
tion of the flowing Arkansas. Just as the
glowing disk pours floods of golden glory over
all, we note the slackening speed, and lo, La
Junta.

The little place is very pretty. Two tiny
lawns between the track and the neatly painted
depot, give the impression of oases really re-
freshing. Several of the buildings near are
the property of the Atchison, Topeka and
Santa Fe, and are neat and pretty. Here they
have also built a large stone round-house.
Just beyond the station we are given hints of
coming changes. A perpendicular bank is
passed, and further on an infant canon has
been suddenly stopped in the midst of its
gyratory convolutions. We are informed that

61



TOUR OF THE ST. ELMO'S.

these sand dunes and plains need only irriga-
tion.

Between La Junta and Pueblo the principal
productions seem to be sage brush, cactus,
jack-rabbits and prairie dogs. Judge of our
surprise on learning that here is excellent
grazing ground. In fact, on many ranches
there are large herds. One can hardly believe
the fine condition of the cattle and horses is
due to the quality of the "feed." Our break-
fast is served and at an early hour we reach
Pueblo. This city must be seen to be appre-