E Neil.

The everyday cook and recipe book : containing more than two thousand practical recipes for cooking every kind of meat, fish, poultry, game, soups, broths, vegetables and salads : also for making all kinds of plain and fancy breads, pastries, puddings, cakes, creams, ices, jellies, preserves, marmal online

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Online LibraryE NeilThe everyday cook and recipe book : containing more than two thousand practical recipes for cooking every kind of meat, fish, poultry, game, soups, broths, vegetables and salads : also for making all kinds of plain and fancy breads, pastries, puddings, cakes, creams, ices, jellies, preserves, marmal → online text (page 6 of 21)
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shred the white part like straws, lay this in a glass, or white
china dish, in the form of a nest. Mince all the white
meat of a boiled, or while stewed fowl, without the skin,
and put it in the nest.

Make a salad dressing thus: Rub the yolks of two hard-
boiled eggs to a smooth paste, with a dessertspoonful of
salad oil, or melted butter; add to it two teaspoonfuls of
made mustard, and a small teaspoonful of fine white sugar,
and put to it gradually (stirring it in) a large cup of strong

Make a wreath of the most delicate leaves of the celery,
around the edge of the nesfc, between it and the chicken;
pour the dressing over the chicken, when ready to serve; if


the dressing is poured over too soon it will discolor tho

White heart lettuce may be used for tlie nest instead oi


Boil a fowl until it will slip easily from the bones; let tho
water be reduced to about one pint in boiling; pick ilia
meat from the bones in good sized pieces, taking out all
gristle, fat, and bones; place in a wet mold; skim the fat
from the liquor; a little butter; pepper and salt to tha
taste, and one-half ounce of gelatine. "When this dissolves,
pour it hot over the chicken. The liquor must be seasoned
pretty high, for the chicken absorbes.


Mince chicken that has been previously roasted or boiled,
and season well; stir into this a sauce made of hatf a pint
of milk, into which while boiling a teaspoonful of corn
starch has been added to thicken, season with butter, about
a teaspoonful, and salt and pepper to taste. Have ready
small pate pans lined with a good puff paste. Bake the
crust in a brisk oven; then fill the pans and set in the oven
a few minutes to brown very slightly.


Four large onions, ten sage-leaves, one-quarter pound of
bread-crumbs, one and one-half ounce of butter, salt and
pepper to taste, one egg. Peel the onions, put them into
boiling water, let them simmer for five minutes or rather
longer, and, just before they are taken out, put in the
sage-leaves for a minute or two to take off their raw-
ness, Chop both these very fine, add the bread, season-


ing, and butter, and work the whole together with the yolk
of an egg, when the stuffing will be ready for use. It
should be rather highly seasoned, and the sage-leaves should
be very finely chopped. Mkiny cooks do not parboil the
onions in the manner just stated, but merely use them raw.
The stuffing then, however, is not nearly so mild, and, to
many tastes, its strong flavor would be very objectionable.
When made for goose, a portion of the liver of the bird,
simmered for a few minutes and very finely minced, is
frequently added to this stuffing; and where economy is
studied, the egg may be dispensed with.


Having drawn and singed the goose, wipe out the inside
with a cloth, and sprinkle in some pepper and salt. Make
a stuffing of four good-sized onions, minced fine, and half
their quantity of green sage-leaves, minced also, a large tea-
cupful of grated bread-crumbs, a piece of butter the size of
a walnut, and the beaten yolks of two eggs, with a little
pepper and salt. Mix the whole together, and incorporate
them well. Put the stuffing into the goose, and press it in
hard; but do not entirely fill up the cavity, as the mixture
will swell in cooking. Tie the goose securely round with a
greased or wetted string; and paper the breast to prevent
it from scorching. The fire must be brisk and well kept up.
It will require from two hours to two and a half to roast.
Baste it at first with a little salt and water, and then with
its own gravy. Take off the paper when the goose is about
half done, and dredge it with a little flour towards the last.
Having parboiled the liver and heart, chop them and put
them into the gravy, which must be skimmed well and
thickened with a little brown flour.

Send apple sauce to table with the goose; also mashed

Boiled Rabbit



A goo/3e may be stuffed entirely with potatoes, boiled and
mashed with milk, butter, pepper and salt.

You may make a gravy of the giblets, that is the neck,
pinions, iiver, heart and gizzard, stewed in a little water,
thickened with butter, rolled in flour, and seasoned with
pepper and salt. Before you send it to table, take out all
but the liver and heart; mince them and leave them in the
gravy. This gravy is by many preferred to that which comes
from the goose in roasting. It is well to have both.

If a goose is old it is useless to cook it, as when hard and
tough it cannot be eaten.


Wash and dry the ducks carefully. Make a stuffing of
sage and onion; insert, and sew up completely that the
seasoning may not escape. If tender, ducks do not re-
quire more than an hour to roast. Keep them well basted,
and a few minutes before serving, dredge lightly with
flour, to make them froth and look plump. Send to table
hot, with a good brown gravy poured not round but over
them. Accompany with currant jelly, and, if in season,
green peas.


Clean the pigeons, and stuff them the same as chickens;
leave the feet on, dip them into scalding water, strip off the
skin, cross them, and tie them together below the breast-
bone; or cut them off; the head may remain on; if so, dip
it in scalding water, and pick it clean; twist the wings
back, put the liver between the right wing and the body,
and turn the head under the other; rub the outside of each
bird with a mixture of pepper and salt; spit them, and put
some water in the dripping-pan; for each bird put a bit of


butter the size of a small egg, put them before a hot fire,
and let them roast quickly; baste frequently; half an hour
will do them; when nearly done, dredge them with wheat
flour and baste with the butter in the pan; turn them, that
they may be nicely and easily browned; when done, take
them up, set the pan over the fire, make a thin batter of a
teaspoonful of wheat flour, and cold water; when the gravy
is boiling hot, stir it in; continue to stir it for a few minutes,
until it is brown, then pour it through a gravy sieve into a
tureen, and serve with the pigeons.


Boil some yellow macaroni gently, until it is quite swelled
out and tender, then cut it in pieces, the length of a finger,
and lay them on a dish like a straw nest.

Truss pigeons with the heads on, (haviDg scalded and
picked them clean), turned under the left wing, leave the
feet on, and having stewed them, arrange them as in a nest;
pour the gravy over and serve.

The nest may be made of boiled rice, or bread cut in
pieces, the length and thickness of a finger, and fried a nice
brown in hot lard, seasoned with pepper and salt. Or,
make it of bread, toasted a yellow brown. Any small birds
may be stewed or roasted, and served in this way.


"Wash and truss one dozen pigeons. Put them in a kettle
with four pounds of the shank of veal, six cloves, twenty-
five pepper-corns, an onion that has been fried in one spoon-
ful of butter, one stalk of celery, a bouquet of sweet herbs
and four and a half quarts of water. Have the veal shank
broken in small pieces. As soon as the contents of the
kettle come to a boil, skim carefully, and set for three hours
?k here they will just simmer. After they have been cooking


one hour, add two tablespoonfuls of salt "When the pigeons
are done, take them up, being careful not to break them,
and remove the strings. Draw the kettle forward, where it
will boil rapidly, and keep there for forty minutes; then
strain the Lquor through a napkin, and taste to sea if sea-
soned enough. The water should have boiled down to two
and a half quarts. Have two molds that will each hold six
pigeons. Put a thin tayer of the jelly in these, and set on
ice to harden. When hard, arrange the pigeons in them,
and cover with the jelly, which must be cold, but liquid.
Place in the ice-chest for six, or, better still, twelve hours.
There should be only one layer of the pigeons in the

To serve: Dip the mold in a basin of warm water for
one minute, and turn on a cold dish. Garnish with pick-
led beets and parsley. A Tartare sauce can be served with
this dish.

If squabs are used, two hours will cook them. All small
birds, as well as partridge, grouse, etc., can be prepared in
the same manner. Remember that the birds must be cooked
tender, and that the liquor must be so reduced that it will
become jellied.


Clean and truss three or four pigeons, rub the outside
and in with a mixture of pepper and salt; rub the inside
with a bit of butter, and fill it with a bread-and-butter stuf-
fing, or mashed potatoes; sew up the slit, butter the sides of
a tin basin or pudding-dish, and line (the sides only) with
pie paste, rolled to quarter of an inch thickness; lay the
birds in; for three large tame pigeons, cut quarter of a
pound of sweet butter and put it over them, strew over a
large teaspoonful of salt, and a small teaspoonful of pepper,
with a bunch of finely-cut parsley, if liked; dredge a large
tablespoonful of wheat flour over; put in water to nearly £U


the pie; lay skewers across the top, cover with a puff paste
crust; cut a slit in the middle, ornament the edge with
leaves, braids, or shells of paste, and put it in a moderately
hot or quick oven, for one hour; when nearly done, brush
the top over with the yolk of an egg beaten with a little milk,
and finish. The pigeons for this pie may be cut in two or
more pieces, if preferred.
Any small birds may be done in this manner.


Nearly all wild ducks are liable to have a fishy flavor, and
when handled by inexperienced cooks, are sometimes un-
eatable from this cause. Before roasting them guard
against this by parboiling them with a small carrot, peeled,
put within each. This will absorb the unpleasant taste.
An onion will have the same effect; but unless you mean to
use onion in the s tuning, the carrot is preferable. In my
own kitchen, I usually put in the onion, considering a sus-
picion of garlic a desideratum in roast duck, whether wild
or tame.


Parboil as above directed; throw away the carrot or
onion, lay in fresh water half an hour; stuff with bread-
crumbs seasoned with pepper, salt, sage, and onion, and
roast until brown and tender, basting for half the time with
butter and water, then with the drippings. Add to the
gravy, when you have taken up the ducks, a teaspoonful of
currant jelly, and a pinch of Cayenne. Thicken with
browned flour and serve in a tureen.


Draw and wash the inside very carefully, as with all game.
Domestic fowls are, or should be, kept up without eating


for at least twelve hours before they are killed; but we must
shoot wild when we can get the chance, and of course it
often happens that their crops are distended by a recent
hearty meal of rank or green food. Wipe the cavity with a
dry, soft cloth before you stuff. Have a rich force-meat, bread-
crumbs, some bits of fat pork, chopped fine, pepper and salt.
Moisten with milk, and beat in an egg and a couple of
tablespoonfuls of melted butter. Baste with butter and
water for the first hour, then three or four times with gravy;
lastly, five or six times with melted butter. A generous
and able housekeeper told me once that she always allowed
a pound of butter for basting a large wild turkey. This
was an extravagant quantity, but the meat is drier than
that of the domestic fowl, and not nearly so fat. Dredge
with flour at the last, froth with butter, and when he is of a
tempting brown, serve. Skim the gravy, add a little hot
water, pepper, thicken with the giblets chopped fine and
browned flour, boil up, and pour into a tureen. At the
South the giblets are not put in the gravy, but laid whole,
one under each wing, when the turkey is dished. Garnish
with small fried sausages, not larger than a dollar, crisped
parsley between them. Send around currant jelly and
cranberry sauce with it.


Pick them immediately; wipe them, and season them
slightly with pepper and salt. Cut as maiy slices of bread
as you have birds. Toast them brown, butter them, and
lay them in the pan. Dredge the birds with flour, and put
them in the oven with a brisk fire. Baste them with lard
or fresh butter. They will be done in twenty or thirty
minutes. Serve them up laid on tbe toast, and garnish with
sliced orange, or with orange jelly.



Choose young birds, with dark-colored bills and yellowish
legs, and let them hang a few days, or there will be no flavor
to the flesh, nor will it be tender. The time they should
be kept entirely depends on the taste of those for whom
they are intended, as what some persons would consider
delicious, would be to others disgusting and offensive.
They may be trussed with or without the head, the latter
mode is now considered the most fashionable. Pluck,
draw, and wipe the partridge carefully inside and out; cut
off the head, leaving sufficient skin on the neck to skewer
baok; bring the legs close to the breast, between it and the
side-bones, and pass a skewer . through the pinions and
thick part of the thighs. "When the head is left on, it
should be brought round and fixed on to the point of the
skewer. When the bird is firmly and plum ply trussed, roast it
before a nice bright fire ; keep it well basted, and a few minutes
before serving, flour and froth it well. Dish it, and serve
with gravy and bread-sauce, and send to table hot and
quickly. A little of the gravy should be poured over the


Pluck and draw the birds, rub a little butter over them,
tie a strip of bacon over the breasts, and set them in the
oven for twenty or twenty-five minutes.


The bird being a little strong, and its flesh when cooked
a little dry, it should be either larded or wide strips of
bacon or pork placed over its breast. A mild seasoned
stuffing will improve the flavor of old birds. Duat. a little
flour over them, baste occasionally, and serve. Pheasants
may be managed in the same manner.



Clean and wash the grouse. Lard the breast and legs.
Put a small skewer into the legs and through the tail. Tie
firmly with twine. Dredge with salt, and rub the breast
with soft butter; then dredge thickly with flour. Put into
a quick oven. If to be very rare, cook twenty minutes; if
wished better done, thirty minutes. The former time, as a
general thing, suits gentlemen better, but thirty minutes is
preferred by ladies. If the birds are cooked in a tin-
kitchen, it should be for thirty or thirty-five minutes. When
done, place on a hot dish, on which has been spread bread-
sauce. Sprinkle fried crumbs over both grouse and
sauce. Garnish with parsley. The grouse may, instead,
be served on a hot dish, with the parsley garnish, and the
sauce and crumbs served in separate dishes. The first
method is the better, however, as you get in the sauce all
the gravy that comes from the birds.


To Choose Pork. — If the rind of pork is tough and
thick, and cannot easily be impressed with the finger, it
is old.

If fresh, the flesh will look cool and smooth; when
moist or clammy it is stale. The knuckle is the first to
become tainted.

Pork is often what is called measly, and is then almost
poisonous; measly pork may easily be detected, the fat being
full of small kernels. Swill or still-fed pork is not fit for
curing; either dairy or corn-fed is good.

Fresh pork is in season from October to April.

In cutting up a large hog, it is first cut in two down the
back and belly. The chine or back-bone should be cut out
from each side the whole length, and is either boiled or


roasted The chine is considered the prime part. Tie
sides of the hog are made into bacon, and the inside or riba
is cut with very little meat; this is the spare-rib,


Hang up the hams a week or ten days, the longer the
tenderer and better, if kept perfectly sweet; mix for each
good-sized ham, one teacup of salt, one tablespoon of
molasses, one ounce of saltpetre; lay the hams in a clean
dry tub; heat the mixture and rub well into the hams,
especially around the bones and recesses; repeat the process
once or twice, or until all the mixture is used; then let the
hams He two or three days, when they must be put for three
weeks in brine strong enough to bear an egg; then soak
eight hours in cold water; hang up to dry in the kitchen or
other more convenient place for a week or more; smoke
from three to five days, being careful not to heat the hams.
Corn-cobs and apple-tree wood are good for smoking. The
juices are better retained if smoked with the hock down.
Tie up carefully in bags for the summer.


Take a sharp knife and score the skin across in narrow
strips (you may cross it again so as to form diamonds) and
rub in some powdered sage. Raise the skin at the knuckle
and put in a stuffing of minced onion and sage, bread-
crumbs, pepper, salt, and beaten yolk of egg. Fasten it
down with a buttered string, or with skewers. You may
make deep incisions in the meat of the large end of the leg,
and stuff them also, pressing in the filling very hard. Rub
a little sweet oil all over the skm with a brush or a goose
feather, to make it crisp and of a handsome brown. A leg
of pork will require from three to four hours to roast


Moisten it all the time by brushing it with sweet oil, or with
fresh butter tied in a rag. To baste it with its own drip-
pings will make the skin tough and hard. Skim the fat care-
fully from the gravy, which should be thickened with a little

A roast leg of pork should always be accompanied by
apple sauce, and by mashed potatoes and mashed turnips.


Pick over carefully a quart of beans and let them soak
over night; in the morning wash and drain in another
water, put on to boil in cold water with half a teaspoon of
soda; boil about thirty minutes (when done, the skin of a
bean will crack if taken out and blown upon), drain, and
put in an earthen pot first a slice of pork and then the
beans, with two or three tablespoons of molasses. "When
the beans are in the pot, put in the centre half or three-
fourths of a pound of well-washed salt pork with the rind
scored in slices or squares, and uppermost; season with
pepper and salt if needed; cover all over with hot water,
and bake six hours or longer in a moderate oven, adding
hot water as needed; they cannot be baked too long. Keep
covered so that they will not burn on the top, but remove
cover an hour or two before serving, to brown the top and
crisp the pork.


Take such a proportion of fat and lean pork as you like;
chop it quite fine, and for every ten pounds of meat take
four ounces of fine salt, and one of fine pepper; dried sage,
or lemon thyme, finely powdered, may be added if liked; a
teaspoonful of sage, and the same of ground allspice and
cloves, to each ten pounds of meat. Mix the seasoning
through the meat; pack it down in stone pots or put in


muslin bags. Or fill the hog's or ox's guts, having first
made them perfectly clean, thus: empty them, cut them in
lengths, and lay them three or four days in salt and water,
or weak lime water; turn them insido out once or twice,
scrape them; then rinse them, and nil with the meat.

If you do not use the skins or guts, make the sausage
meat up to the size and shape of sausages, dip them in
beaten egg, and then into wheat flour, or rolled crackers,
or simply into wheat flour, and fry in hot lard. Turn them,
that every side may be a fine color. Serve hot, with boiled
potatoes or hominy; either taken from the gravy, or after
they are Med, pour a little boiling water into the gravy in
the pan, and pour it over them; or first dredge in a tea-
spoonful of wheat flour, stir it until it is smooth and brown;
then add a little boiling water, let it boil up once, then put
it in the dish with the sausages.

Chopped onion and green parsley may be added to the
sausage meat, when making ready to fry.

Or sausage meat may be tied in a muslin bag, and boiled,
and served with vegetables; or let it become cold, and cut
in slices.


Fry or stew pork chops, after taking off the rind or skin,
the same as for veal.

Cutlets and steaks are also fried, broiled, or stewed, the
same as veal.


Thoroughly clean the pig, then rinse it in cold water,
wipe it dry; then rub the inside with a mixture of salt and
pepper, and if liked, a little pounded and sifted sage; nidie
a stuffing thus: cut some wheat bread in slices half an inch
thick, spread butter on to half its thickness, sprinkled with


pepper and salt, and if liked, a little pounded eage and
minced onion; pour enough hot water over the bread to
make it moist or soft, then fill the body with it and sew it
together, or tie a cord around it to keep the dressing in,
then spit it; put a pint of water in the dripping-pan, put
into it a tablespoonful of salt, aud a teaspoonful of pep-
per, let the fire be hotter at each end than in the middle,
put the pig down at a little distance from the fire, baste it
as it begins to roast, and gradually draw it nearer; continue
to baste occasionally; turn it that it may be evenly cooked;
when the eyes drop out it is done; or a better rule is to
judge by the weight, fifteen minute3 for each pound of
meat, if the fire is right.

Have a bright clear fire, with a bed of coals at the bot-
tom; first put the roast at a little distance, and gradually
draw it nearer; when the pig is done stir up the fire, take a
coarse cloth with a good bit of butter in it, and wet the
pig all over with it, and when the crackling is crisp take it
up; dredge a little flour into the gravy, let it boil up once,
and having boiled the heart, liver, etc., tender, and chopped
it fine, add it to the gravy, give it one boil, then serve.


Is smoked and boiled like ham with vegetables; boiled
cabbage or fried parsnips may be served with it.


Trim off the rough ends neatly, crack the ribs across the
middle, rub with salt and sprinkle with pepper, fold over,
stuff with turkey-dressing, sew up tightly, place in dripping-
pan with pint of water, baste frequently, turning over once
bo as to bake both sides equally until a rich brown.



Have at hand a thick batter of Indian meal and flour;
cut a few slices of pork and fry them in the frying-pan until
the fat is fried out; cut a few more slices of the pork, dip
them in the batter, and drop them in the bubbling fat, sea-
soning with salt and pepper; cook until light brown, and
eat while hot.


Cover your ham with cold water, and simmer gently just
long enough to loosen the skin, so that it can bo pulled off.
This will probably be from two to three hours, according to
the size of your ham. When skinned, put in a dripping-
pan in the oven, pour ov»r it a teacup of vinegar and one
of hot water, in which dissolve a teaspoonful of English
mustard, bake slowly, basting with the liquid, for two hours.
Then cover the ham all over to the depth of one inch with
coarse brown sugar, press it down firmly, and do not baste
again until the sugar has formed a thick crust, which it will
soon do in a very slow oven. Let it remain a full hour in,
after covering with the sugar, until it becomes a rich golden
brown. When done, drain from the liquor in the pan and
put on a dish to cool. When it is cool, but not cold, press
by turning another flat dish on top, with a weight over it.
You will never want to eat ham cooked in any other way
when you have tasted this, and the pressing makes it cut
firmly for sandwiches or slicing.


Wash thoroughly with a cloth. Select a small size to
boil, put it in a large quantity of cold water, and boil
twenty minutes for each pound, allowing it to boil slowly;


'ake off the rind while hot and put in, the oven to brown
half an hour; remove and trim.


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Online LibraryE NeilThe everyday cook and recipe book : containing more than two thousand practical recipes for cooking every kind of meat, fish, poultry, game, soups, broths, vegetables and salads : also for making all kinds of plain and fancy breads, pastries, puddings, cakes, creams, ices, jellies, preserves, marmal → online text (page 6 of 21)