sufficient to sustain the tree, while those of the old root, on taking
up, were diseased, apparently from some want of action in the cir-
culation of sap -vessels.
Hardihood. The comparative hardihood of American over for-
eign varieties has been much lauded, but as yet we do not think sus-
tained by experiment. Propagation on healthy or unhealthy stocks
we think has had more to do with it than aught else. Until within
a few years past, most of the pears worked on pear stocks in this
country were on suckers, and this we imagine the foundation of
most said respecting the comparative hardihood of native over for-
eign varieties.
Stocks and Adaptation of Trees grown thereon. Healthy seedling
pear stocks, usually two years old and about | to ^ an inch diameter at
crown, are regarded best for grafting on, while the same left to grow
until August, are usually suitable size for t)udding. The quince,
apple, thorn, and mountain ash, are all more or less used for grow-
ing what are termed dwarf trees. Of these the quince is best, thorn
next, and apple the least desirable. Of the quince, seedlings are
not desirable to use for this purpose, as they do not run even in
growth ; but cuttings grown from what is generally known as the
Anglers variety should be procured. The thorn and mountain ash
are used often with advantage on dry gravelly or sandy soils, where
the quince roots do not appear as well suited.
While a very large number of varieties will take and grow for a
year or two finely, there are comparatively few that succeed for a
series of years in continued vigor and productiveness, when grown
on any stock but that of the pear ; and while the cultivation is now
very extensive on the quince root, we cannot but fear that in eight-
tenths it will prove unprofitable to the grower ; and in the remain-
ing two-tenths, require equally as much care in supplying nutrition
and pruning, as a system of root pruning when grown on pear roots.
There are, however, some sorts that the fruit seems improved by
being worked on quince, asDuchessed'Angouleme, Easter Beurre, &c.,
and this is a strong item in favor of the quince stock ; and therefore,
while advising its use, we must not forget always to mention that
without carefu' and high culture the grower will meet disappointment/.
STOCKS AND ADAPTATION OF TREES THEREON. 299
A-bout one hundred ye..rs may be taken as the natural duration of
the pear on pear rooti-^when grown in soil supplied with the elements
necessary to sustain it; and about thirty or forty years the natural
duration when worked on the quince root, and regularly pruned and
cultivated, histances are of course recorded and known, where
trees exist for longei periods, while hundreds decay and are gone in
one half the time. The demand for pear trees on the quince has
been so great for some years past, that too often little regard has
been paid to the stock ; and we have now in our grounds rows of
bearing trees on quince roots, all of one kind, received from France,
from which, although receiving the same care and attention, there
may be selected those that ere many years must of necessity decay ,
the stock and tree are not adapted one to the other. Again, as be-
fore remarked, there are varieties that, while they grow apparently
well for a few years, decay on fruiting the second year. The suc-
cess of the pear on quince roots trained en-pyramid in the old coun-
try has been confined to but few varieties, and these kept under a
steady yet high state of cultivation. Orcharding with the pear on
the quince, in the manner of most orcharding in this country, will
never repay the first cost of the trees ; but if trees are selected ot
varieties known to have been long successful, and a system of cul-
ture pursued which shall meet the requirements of the fibrous roots
of the quince, then may the grower look for profit and pleasure in
the result ; but equally gratifying and profitable would be the result,
if we except a few varieties of foreign origin, when grown on the
pear, and annually root-pruned; added to which, if one half the trees
were taken out after twenty years, the balance would form a fine
permanent orchard to be managed as our apple orchards. In small
gardens, where the quince stock is advised by nearly all writers, (and
correctly so, if the right varieties are selected,) success will not be had
without an appreciation by the grower of the extent of roots formed
by the quince, and the system of culture required to supply the
food of the plant, as well as knowledge in how to prune, and also
some little knowledge of the amount of fruit the young tree is ca-
pable of ripening and continue in health ; the tendency being rather
to over-production and exhaustion.
Transplanting, SeUction of Trees, and Distances apart. — The roots
of the pear have few laterals except grown on shallow rich soil,
and in transplanting, it is therefore requisite to secure as murh
of the large root as possible. If in taking up they are mostly de-
stroyed, the branches will have to be shortened in and cut out. On
the quince root, when well grown, there will need little attention,
except to head back to a regular shape, and prune smooth the ends
of each root, as often directed in this work ; and in setting, taking
300
THE PEAR,
ciire that the earti is even with the junction of the pear on the
quince.
Trees on pear roots for the orchard or garden are best at about
three years old, and five to seven feet high, well grown and shaped
as noted in the apple. Dwarf trees or those on quince roots, are
best at one year from the bud ; for, as a general thing, the nursery-
m an has neither the time, nor will the price paid for trees as com-
pared with that of labor in this country, warrant him in a system
of careful and correct pruning in nursery row ; neither can a tree
be so evenly shaped as when transplanted to more open and exposed
po-icions.
The distance apart of pear or pear roots for large orchardin
should be from twenty-five to thirty feet, while that of dwarfs
gardens should be ten to fifteen feet. Dwarfs are now much plant-
ed intermediate in large permanent orchards, but as a whole, the
practice is not to be advised, unless the grower intends to cultivate
such orchard with care and attention, superior to the ordinary
method of plowing, planting potatoes, &c.
Soil and Manures. — The pear roots thrive best in a soil where
the sub-soil is at once dry and moist ; that is, where it is open and
porous sufficient to admit of free drainage, and yet where the roots,
extending deeply and freely in it, reach moisture in season of ex-
treme drought. Cold clay is a bad sub-soil, and where it exists in
the ground of a prospective orchard, it should be deeply and
thoroughly sub-soiled ai>d well drained. The pear on quince roots
succeed best in rich, deep, moist, loamy ground, even enduring con-
siderable water better than dry sand. The following is the analysis
of the ash of the pear as made by Dr. Emmons : —
Potash, ....
Soda,
Chlorine, ....
Sulphuric Acid,
Thosphate of Lime,
Phosphate of Peroxide of Iron,
Carbonic Acid,
Lime, . .
Magnesia, ....
Silex,
Coal,
Organic Matter,
Sap wood.
Bark.
22.25
6.20
1.84
0.31
1.70
0.50
1.80
27.22
6.50
0.31
27.69
37.29
12.64
30.36
3.00
9.40
0.30
0.40
0.17
0.65
4.02
4.20
100.25
98.30
From this it will be seen what most is wanted in the soil to pro-
duce healthy foliage and wood in the pear As a general thin^
PRUNING.
801
soils usually are or become deficient in lime and the phosphates, and
the cheapest remedy is liberal dressing of wood ashes and i)one
dust ; or in sections where bone dust is not easily attainable, dig
in around the tree whole bones from the daily use of a family, or
procured from a slaughter-house. Potash dissolved in water and
applied to vegetable mould from the woods, and this dug in around
the tree, is also a cheap and ready way of supplying food requisite.
Iron filings, etc., from smith-shops is also good, and hence the im-
pression of some, that through it the blight was cured or prevented.
The fact being only that a certain element requisite to health was
exhausted in the soil.
Pruning. — In connection with what we have recorded under this
head on a previous page, we add the following, as directly applicable
to the pear. It is from the experience of Thomas Rivers, Esq.,
England, one of the most successful pyramidal pear tree growers in
the world :
" If root-pruned pyramidal trees are planted, it will much assist
them if about half the blossom buds are thinned out with sharp-
pointed scissors, or a penknife, just before they open ; otherwise
these root-pruned trees on
the quince stock are so full
of them, that the tree re-
ceives a check if they are
all allowed to expand. About
ten or fifteen fruit may be
permitted to ripen the first
season ; the following season
two or three dozen will be
as many as the tree ought
to be allowed to bring to
perfection, increasing the
number as the tree increases
in vigor, always remember-
ing that a few full-sized and
well-ripened pears are to be
preferred to a greater num-
ber, inferior in size and
quality.
Summer pinching in the
youth of the tree is the only
remedy, if it is not well fur-
nished below ; and a severe
remedy it is, for all the
young shoots on the upper
tiers, including the leader,
must be pinched closely in
May and June till the lower
;02
THE PEAR.
ones have made young shoots of a sufficient length to give uniform
ily to the tree. This requires much attention and trouble; it is
better to be careful not to plant any tree for a pyramid that is not
well furnished with buds and branches to its base. A tree of this
description may soon be made to assume the shape of the foregoing
figure, which is a perfect pyramidal pear tree, such as it ought to be
in July, before its leading side shoots and perpendicular leaders are
shortened, which is best done towards the end of August : this short-
ening must be made at the marks , and all the side shoots short-
ened in the 'same manner ; and also the leading shoot. Hooked
pruning scissors will be found the best implement to prune with.
The spurs are the bases of the sho<^t«; that have been pmched
*.n June.
Planting and after
management.— Ks before
mentioned, the autum-
nal and early winter
months are to be prefer-
red for planting ; care
should be taken in select-
ing trees that are fur-
nished with buds and
branches from bottom
to top; but if a young
gardener intends to
plant, and wishes to
train up his trees so
that they will become
quite perfect in shape, he
should select plants one
year old from the bud or
graft; these 'will, of
course, have good buds
down to the junction of
the graft with the stock.
The first spring, a tree
of this description should
be headed down so as to
leave the shoot about 18
inches long ; if the soil is
rich, from five to six and
seven shoots will be pro-
duced ; one of these
must be made the leader,
and if not inclined to be
quite perpendicular, this must be fastent d to a stake. As soon in sum^
PRUNING AND AFTER MANAGEMENT. 303
mer as the leading shoot is ten inches long, its end must be pinched
off, and if it pushes forth two or more shoots, pinch all off but one
10 about two inches, leaving the topmost for a leader ; the side shoots
will in most cases assume a regular shape ; if not, they may be this
first season tied to slight stakes to make them grow in the proper
direction. This is the best done by bringing down and fastening
the end of each shoot, to a slight stake, so that an open pyramid
may be formed ; for if it is too close and cypress-like, enough air is
not admitted to the fruit ; they may remain unpruned till the ei\d
of August, w^hen each shoot must be shortened to within eight buds
of the stem ;* this will leave the tree like the preceding figure, and
no pruning in winter will be required.
The second season the trees wdll make vigorous growth ; the side
shoots which were topped last August will each put forth three, four,
or more shoots ; as soon as these are four inches long they must be
pinched off to within three inches, all hut the leading shoot of each side
branch ; this must be left on, to exhaust the tree of its superabundant
sap, till the end of August. The perpendicular leader must be top-
ped once or twice ; in short, as soon as it has grown ten inches, pinch
off its top, and if it breaks into two or three shoots, pinch them all
but the leader, as directed for the first season ; in a few years, most
symmetrical trees may be formed.
When they have attained the height of six or eight feet, and still
continue to grow vigorously, it will be necessary to commence root-
pruning to bring them into a fruitful state.
I have thus far given directions for those who are inclined to rear
their own pyramids. Much time and attention are required ; but
the interest attached to well-trained pyramids will amply repay the
young cultivator.
I will now endeavor to give directions for the management of trees
adapted for the gardener of mature age, who feels somewhat impa-
tient if his trees do not begin at once to be fruitful. A most valu-
able auxiliary to precocious fruitfulness in pears is the quince stock ;
pears grafted on it may be safely recommended for all soils of mod-
erate depth and fertility, and even for light and sandy soils I am
induced to advise it, only in those circumstances the trees must have
more care and higher cultivation. In soils of that nature I should
recommend the surface of the soil round the tree to be covered
during June, July, and August, with short grass, moss, or manure,
and to give them once a week, in dry weather, a drenching with
guano water, (about two pounds to six gallons,) which must be well
stirred before it is used ; each tree should have twelve gallons poured
gradually into the soil : by this method the finest fruit may be pro-
* There are generally three or four abortive buds at the base of each shoot ;
these must not >w reckoned
304
THE PEAR.
duced ; and as it is very probable that, ere many years elapse, we
shall have exhibitions of pears, this will be liie mode to procure fine
specimens to show for prizes.
Monsieur Cappe's method of pruning" in the Garden of Plants,
(Jardin des Plantes,) France, where all are on their own or pear
roots, is thus described by the late A. J. Downing in the Horticul-
turist. These pyramidal pear trees, it is well known, are regarded
as the most perfect of specimens.
" M. Cappe confines his pruning to three seasons of the year. In
the mon'h of March, or before the buds start, he shortens back with
the knife all the leading shoots, fig. 1, a, a, — that is, the terminal
shoots at the end of each side branch. Of course, this forces out not
only a new leaduag shoot at the end of the branch, but side shoots,
6, 6, at various places on the lower part of the
shoot. These side shoots are left to grow till the
end of May. They have then pushed out to about
four or five inches in lenojth. The ends of all
these side shoots are then pinched off, leaving
only about an inch and a half at the bottom of
the shoot.
" Fig. 2 shows one of the branches, with the
side shoots, as they are at the end of June. The
dotted lines, 6, 6, show the point to which these
shoots should be pinched off.
" The terminal or leading shoot, c, is lefl entire,
in order to draw up the sap, which would other-
wise force all the side shoots into new growth. Notwithstanding
this precaution, in luxuriant seasons the side shoots will frequently
push out new shoots again, just below
where they were pinched. This being
the case, about the Za^i of August M.
Cappe shortens back these new side
shoots to about an inch and a half But
this time he does not pinch them off.
He breaks them, and leaves the broken
end for several days attached and hang-
ing do^\'n, so that the flow of sap is not
so suddenly checked as when the branch
is pinched or cut off, and the danger of
new shoots being forced out a third time
is thereby efifectually guarded against.
"The object of this stopping the side
branches, is to accumulate the sap, or, more properly, the organizable
matter in these shortened branches, by which means the remaining
buds become fruit-buds instead of wood-buds. They also become
spurs, distributed over the whole tree, which bear regularly yeai
Fis^. 1.
Fig. 2
INSECTS AND DISEASES. 805
after year, sendiug out new side shoots, which are pinched back in
the same manner every summer.
•' In order to keep the tree finely proportioned, the eye of the
pruner must be a nice one, that he may, with a glance, regulate
the pruning of the terminal branches or leaders, which, as we
have just said, are shortened back in March — for then is the time
to adjust any extravagances of growth which the tree may have run
into, on either side : and in the summer pinching the balance of
growth is adjusted by pinching the side shoots that start out nearest
the ends of the branches, quite short, say an inch and a half, while
those that start near the bottom of the branch, (or the centre of the
tree,) where they have less nourishment, are left from four to five
inches long.
" Understanding this mode of pruning, nothing is easier than to
form pyramidal pear trees of the most perfect symmetry, and beauty
of form. But in order to have the branches regu arly produced
from the ground to the summit, you must plant a tree .vhich is only
a couple of feet high, so that you can form the first tier of branches
quite near the ground, by cutting back the leader at the very outset;
for if the tree is once allowed to form a clean body or stem, of
course it is impossible afterwards to give it the requisite shape and
fulness of branches at the bottom."
All this our readers will understand relates more especially to
the art of pruning, as adapted to high or garden culture. Standard
trees in the orchard require only the same or similar pruning to that
pursued in the apple ; very few trees, in fact, requiring aught but a
thinning out of branches, or rather a preventing, while young, of the
branches becoming too thick.
Insects and Diseases. — The Scolytus pyri is an insect described by
Harris. This is by some counted as the cause of a species of blight.
Its presence has, however, been rarely met with, and doubts arise
among many cultivators whether it is as prevalent, and the cause of
as much destruction, as reported.
The Bupestris divaraeata, and perhaps some allied species, is
found in the larvae state under the bark, on the bodies of both the
pear and apple ; and what is often taken for sun-blight, is the effect
of this insect. The bark appears blackened on the body of the tree,
on the south or southwest side. Cutting it away carefully and de-
stroying the larvae in months of July to September, and washing
the body first with ley-water, or strong soap-suds, and covering it
with a coating of gum shellac, dissolved in alcohol, is the remedy.
The slug Selandria cerasi appears on the leaf of both cherr^v-
ani pear in June, July and August. It is about half an inch long
of a dull, greenish br,-.wn, slimy, shining, offensive appearance.
It is easily destroyed, if taken 'in time, by scattering ashes or even
306 THE PEAR.
dirt over the leaves early in morning, or while the dew is on, fol-
lowing up the application some four or five days. The frozen-sap
blight, etc., often so destructive to trees in the West, we have re-
marked on in previous pages, and refer thereto.
Selection of varieties known to he pei-manenily successful on the
quince. — As we have before remarked, while there are a great many
varieties that at first take and grow well on the quince stock, there
are but few comparatively that are permanently successful. It there-
fore becomes the planter to select with care, and plant with a view
to permanence, only those that are known to succeed. Of the error
of planting indiscriminately, we have had practical experience, as in
planting the grounds of our present residence we looked to the test-
ing of varieties, and therefore ordered and planted one tree only of
a sort. On a double border so planted, containing over 200 sorts,
we have already, in three years, discarded one half, and feel confi-
dent that not more than one half of the remainder will answer to
continue permanently. As yet few or none of our American native
pears can be depended on when grown on the quince, and as all in-
troduced are of the quality described when grown on pear roots,
we advise most planters so to procure them.
• Of those known to succeed permanently when grown on quince,
the following may be selected :
Summer Franc Real,
Bartlett,
Beurre d'Araalis,
Louise Bonne of Jersey,
Vicar of Wakefield,
Angouleme, Duchess of ditto^
Summer Dean, Doyenne d'Ete^
English Jargonelle,
Madelaine,
Long Green of Autumn,
Beurre Diel,
Glout Morceau,
White Dean, White Doyenne, i Easter Beurre,
Gray Dean, Gris Doyenne, Duchess of Orleans,
Striped Long Green of Autumn, ' Beurre of Anjou,
Weary Soldier, Soldat Laboureur, Boussouck, Doyenne Boussouck,
Van Mons' Leon Le Clerc, ; Passe Colmar.
Gathering of the Fruit, and Uses. — r" Gather pears of the summer
sorts rather before they are ripe, as, when thoroughly so, they eat
mealy if kept above a day or two ; even when gathered as they
ought to be, in a week or less they begin to go at the core. They
should not, however, be gathered when they require much force to
pull them oflT. Autumn pears must also not be full rij^e at the time
of gathering, though they will keep longer than the summer.
Winter pears, on the contrary, should hang as long or. the trees as
they may, so as to escape frost, which would make them flat in
flavor, and not keep well. Generally they may hang to the middle
of October on full standards, a week longer on dwarfs, but yet not
VARIETIES AND NOMENCLATURE. 807
after they are ripe. The art of gathering is, to give them a lift, so
as to press away the stalk, and if ripe, they readily part from the
tree. Let them be quite dry when pulled, and in Handling, avoid
pinching the fruit, or in any way bruising it ; as gathered, lay them
quietly in shallow baskets."
This process of gathering at the proper time, in connection with
their after maturing, in a fruit-room or house of equable temperature,
has often very much to do in deciding the quality of a pear. Many
varieties are entirely* worthless as dessert pears, unless so ripened,
when, with this care, they are really the most delicious.
The old criterion of a good pear, viz. : one with a sugary aromatic
juice, soft sub-liquid pulp or melting, as in the White Doyenne, or
fine crisp and " breaking," as in the Bergamottes ; firm, juicy, yet
austere for cooking, as in the Pound, is equally good at tliis day as
when first written.
The common uses of the pear are for dessert, baking, stewing,
drying, preserving, marmalades, and for perry. For the latter use,
large orchards of the more common hardy sorts have heretofore
been planted, and the result found more profitable than the same
amount of ground appropriated to the apple for cider.
Varieties and Nomenclature. — The number of varieties now known
is something over 1200, but of these it is more than probable over
1000 may be discarded, and then leave more than have qualities to
sustain their continued culture when compared with the best. Through-
out the West, the pear culture is only in its infancy, and we there-
fore place far less in our first class than probably may seem worthy
that position by our Eastern pear amateurs ; but we would rather
our Western growers should plant varieties worthy their attention,
than, as a whole, devote time to testing. We shall not pretend in
this work to even note all varieties, but shall only speak of those
most known in our own language, while we could wish (and pro-
bably may do so, as far as possible, at a future time) to transfer
all names into the English language ; we have at this time thought
best in most cases to retain the foreign name, but in the first class
giving the English meaning directly underneath, and in same size
type. In other cases where the English rendering seemed appro-
priate, we have adopted it as the standard name, giving the heretofore
standard name as the first synonym.
Forms and Size comparative. — Our forms illustrative of the terms
used in description, are from the Transactions of the Massachusetts