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George William Johnson.

A dictionary of modern gardening

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border; vvater daily in dry weather,
and give liquid guano always once a
week, so soon as the flower buds ap-
pear. Let the pots they flower in be
sixteens, that is, nine inches in diame-
ter at the top. Move them into a very
airy green-house or conservatory, to
bloom.

" The shifting of the plants in the
earlier part of the summer," says a
well-informed writer, " should be par-
ticularly attended to. If this is neglect-
ed, no good after-management will save
them from losing their leaves, and look-
ing badly in autumn and winter. As
soon as they are fairly starting into
growth, the top of each should be nip-
ped with the finger and thumb, which
will cause several shoots to spring from
the under part of the plant, and thus
form it into a compact bush. This may
be repeated two or three times with
advantage in the earlier part of the
season with the free flowering kinds ;
but after the plant is fairly formed it
should be discontinued, otherwise the
flowering will be injured." — Gard.
Cliron.

Cuttings. — The same authority says,
that " the proper time for striking cut-
tings depends upon the objects which
the propagator has in view. Nursery-
men who want a good stock of a par-
ticular kind may propagate it at almost



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148



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any season, and generally begin very There is another plfTi for making small
early in spring. But, for ordinary pur- dsvarf flowering specimens, which de-
poses, from the middle of March to j serves especial notice. The young
the middle of April is quite soon enough; ' shoots which have grown to a consider-
and the amateur can then do so without able length, have their points ' layered'
any artificial heat, which is of great about the month of August, in small
consequence to those who have very pots. As soon as they are well rooted,
limited gardens. they are cut from the parent stock, re-

" It matters very little whether the potted, and placed for a short time in a
cuttings are taken otf with roots or shaded place until they recover. They
without them, as in the latter case they are then subjected to the same treat-
will form them in a few days, and soon ment as the others, and generally flower
begin to grow rapidly. The frame ; on stems about a foot or eighteen inches
should be kept very close, moist, and ! in height." — Gard.Chron. Give liquid
shaded, until the cuttings have formed guano twice a week so soon as the
roots for their support; when this takes tlower buds are well formed,
place, a little air may be admitted grad- j Seed should be saved, and crosses
ually as the plants will bear it, and then ; eff'ected, from semi-double flowers,
afterwards they must be fully exposed." j Mildew. — "At the end of summer
— Gard. Chron. I chrysanthemums are extremely liable to



After-Culture. — " After the flowering
season is past, and the old stems cut
down, the plants should be removed
from the green-house or conservatory.



be infected with mildew. Those plants
upon which it makes its appearance,
should be immediately separated from
the rest, and well dusted with flowers



and placed in a cold frame, where they of sulphur. This should be allowed to
are merely protected from severe frost, remain on them at least a day or two,
Here they should have plenty of air, and may afterwards be washed off" with
and on fine davs the lights should be a syringe or garden engine." — Gard.
drawn quite off, and the plants fully Chron. A very weak solution of corn-
exposed. When the winter is mild,[mon salt syringed repeatedly over the
they will stand very well unprotected ; | leaves, and, after remaining a few
but owing to their having been grown hours, washed off by a syringing with
and excited in the green-house, they pure water, would be equally effectual,
are more apt to suffer from severe CHRYSEIS. Three species. Hardy
weather than if they had been planted tuberous-rooted perennials. Seeds,
out in the open air. For this reason it Rich soil.

is always better to have the means of CHRYSIPHIALA. Four species,
giving them some slight protection. If i Green-house bulbous perennials. Off-
they are kept too close and warm in sets. Light loam.

winter, they begin to grow fast : the 1 CHRYSOCOMA. Fourteen species,
leaves are yellow, and the stems weak, i Hardy herbaceous perennials, and stove
and consequently they form bad cut- j evergreen shrubs. Ripe cuttings. Loam
tings when the season of propagation : and peat.

comes round. But if they are merely ; CHRYSOPHYLLUM. Six species,
protected and attended to, as has been | ahd some varieties. Stove evergreen
already described, they grow slowly, ! trees. Ripe cuttings. Loam and peat,
and make excellent cuttings. Those ' CHRYSOSPLENIUM. Three spe-
who wish to make verv large specimens ^ cies. Hardy herbaceous perennials,
of these plants with little trouble, some- j Division. Moist soil.
times plant them out in a rich border i CHRYSOSTEMMA <r/p?fir/.s. Hardy
in April or May, as soon as the cuttings j herbaceous perennial. Division. Peat
are rooted. Here they grow with great I and loam.

luxuriance, and are very large and ! CHYSIS aurea. Stove epiphyte,
bushy, when the time comes for taking I Division. Wood.

them up, and removing them into the j CIBOTIUM Billardieri. Green-house
green-house. In autumn, they are taken evergreen tree fern. Division. Loam
up very carefully, and placed in a shaded and peat.

situation for a few days, until they re- ' CIBOUL, or WELSH ONION. Al-
cover from the effects of the operation, [ //u?« /t.siu/osuOT. This is a perennial,
and are then taken to the green-house. I never forming any bulb, but is sown



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annually, toTje drawn yountr for salads, I Eclipse ; Gem; Nobilis ; Perfficta ;

Queen Victoria; Rival King; Royal
Blue; Sspphire ; Splendida ; Water-
housiana ; and Webberiana.

Characteristics of Excellence. — The
cineraria does not exhibit so much im-
provement as most florists' (lowers.

" The petals should be thick, broad,
blunt, and smooth at the ends, closely
set, and form a circle without much
indentation. The centre, or yellow-
disk, should be less than one-third of
the diameter of the whole flower; in
other words, the coloured circle formed



&c. On account of its strong taste, it
is greatly inferior to the common onion
for this purpose ; but from its extreme
hardness in withstanding the severest
frost, it may be cultivated with advan-
tage as a winter-standing crop for spring
use.

Varieties. — Two varieties are in cul-
tivation, the white and the red; the
first of which is in general use.

Cultivation. — As it may be sown at
all times with the onion, and is simi-
larly cultivated, except that it may be



sown thicker, and only thinned as by the petals should be wider all round
wanted, the direction given for that than the disk measures across. The
vegetable will suffice. The blade usu- colour should be brilliant, whether
ally dies away completely in winter, but shaded or self; or if it be a white it
fresh ones are thrown out again in Feb- j should be very pure.



ruary or March.

To obtain Seed. — To obtain seed



The trusses of flower should be
large and close, and even on the sur-



some of the roots must be planted out face, the individual flowers standing
in March, six or eight inches asunder. | together with their edges touching each
The first autumn they will produce but other, however numerous thev may be.
little seed; in the second and third, ' The plant should be dwarf. The stems



however, it will be produced abundant-
ly. If care is taken to part and trans-
plant the roots every two or three years,
they may be multiplied, and will re-
main productive for many years, and
afibrd much better seed than that from
one-year-old roots.

Scallions. — There is good reason for
concluding that by a confusion of names,
arising from similarity of appearance,



strong, and not longer than the width
across the foliage ; in other words,
from the upper surface of the truss of
the flower to the leaves where the
stem starts from should not be a greater
distance than from one side of the foli-
age to the other." — Hort. Mag.

Propagation hy Seed. — " Sow in May
in the open border; thin out the plants
where they are crowded, and transplant



this vegetable is the true scallion, whilst | them when they have three good leaves,
the hollow leek of Wales is the true I and pot them to remain in October." —
Welsh onion ; for the description of; Card. Chron.

scallion, as given by Miller, accords I Propagation by Cuttings. — "After
exactly with that of the Welsh onion, the bloom has perfected itself and de-
At present all onions that have refused j caved, cut down the stems, stir the
to bulb, and formed lengthened necks j earth upon the surface, then earth up
and strong blades in spring and sum- i with fresh compost, filling the pot



mer, are called scallions.

CICCA disticha.
fruit tree. Leafy
loam.

CIMICIFUGA. Four species. Hardy
herbaceous perennials. Division. Seeds.
Common soil.

CINCHONA. Two species. Stove
evergreen tree and shrub. Ripe cut-
tings. Loam and peat.

CINERARIA. Fifty-four species.
ChieHy hardy and green-house herba-
ceous ; but some green-house ever-
green shrubs. It is a genus of florists'



rather full than otherwise ; refresh the

Stove evergreen | plants with a little water, and place

cuttings. Sandy i them in the frame again ; or if you have

none convenient, in a dry and sheltered

place in the garden.

" The growth of a few weeks will
enable you to detect side shoots, some
with roots, and some without roots, and
leave only the main plant in the pot,
which should be earthed up again, and
set by. The shoots which have no
roots to them should be stripped of two
or three of the bottom leaves, that they

ay be placed in a pot of the usual sort



flowers, and the varieties which they of compost that the plant may have
have raised are very numerous. A been growing in, with a little sand at
good selection is the following: — [ top, say a quarter of an inch thick, and



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covered with a bell glass ; or if there
be enough, they may be placed a dozen
or two in a large pan, and a glass that
will fit inside the rim, covered over
them. They must never be allowed to
dry. The glasses should be occasion-
ally wiped dry inside. Whether there
be one cutting or a dozen, they should
be so placed that the glass can be
pressed into the sand to keep out the
air until they have all struck.

" They can always be watered with-
out disturbing the glass, if it be pro-
perly placed inside the rim, because by
watering over the glass, the whole can
be soaked ; but the drainage must be
good, or they will rot.

" If you happen to have a declining
hot-bed in which there remains a little
bottom heat, the pan or pots maybe
placed therein. It will rather hasten
the striking. Those side-shoots which
have roots to them may be immediately
potted into sixty-sized pots, and treated
the same as seedlings just potted off.
In a few weeks the cuttings will have
struck, which will be indicated by their
beginning to grow ; they may be potted
oft' also, as seedlings are potted, in
sixty-sized pots. Here the treatment
is just the same as that directed for
seedlings." — Hort. Mag.

After-Culture. — "About the first
week in June, the plants being removed
from the green-house, and turned out
of their pots, the old earth shaken from
their roots, plant rather deeply, and
about eighteen inches apart in light
rich soil in the open garden, and water
as often as they seem to require it.
By the end of July, they throw up
myriads of suckers; they are then taken
up and parted, preserving ihe smallest
atom that has a root to it. The largest
plants are potted in pots proportionate
to their size, in a compost consisting of
leaf mould, rotten dung, and strong
turfy loam, in about equal quantities,
and placed in a shady situation. These
will flower in September and October,
and will do well either for the house,
or for filling up beds, or vacancies in
the flower garden. The other plants
are replanted in the open garden, wa-
tered, and shaded until established,
taken up with balls, and potted about
the end of October, and protected from
frost in a cold frame or pit through the
winter. In this manner, and by keep-
ing plants of various sizes, a regular



supply of flowers maybe Iftid from Sep-
tember to the end of June. Single
plants in thirty-two or twenty-four-sized
pots are large enough. No plants suf-
fer so much from being crowded toge-
ther ; indeed, when short of room it is
better to throw away a few plants than
have the whole cramped for room." —
Gard. Chron.

Winter-blooming. — ''• When the cine-
rarias have done flowering, cut off" all
the flower-stems and old leaves, and
place them in a cold pit or frame, which
must be kept rather close for two or
three weeks to cause the plants to grow;
afterwards admit air freely by day, but
keep them close at night ; then about
the beginning of August divide the old
plants into pieces, and put them into
small pots filled with a mixture of good
loam and sandy peat, to which may be
added a small portion of well-rotted
dung. When potted, return them to
the pit or frame, and keep them close;
afterwards, as they grow, shift them
into larger pots, and use a little manure-
water ; and finally, as the danger of
frost approaches, remove them to the
green-house, where they will bloom well
all the winter and spring, if kept free
from insects." — Gard. Chron.

CINNAMOMUM. Cinnamon. Ele-
ven species. Stove evergreen trees.
Ripe cuttings. Loam and peat.

CINNAMON. Cinnamomum.

CION. See Scion.

CIRCiEA. Three species. Hardy
herbaceous perennials. Offsets. Com-
mon soil.

CIRCUMPOSITION differs from lay-
ering, only that in this the shoot to be
rooted is bent down to the soil, whilst
in circumposition the soil is placed in
a vessel and raised to the shoot. There
are pots called layering pots made for
this practice, and diftering from the
common garden pot, only by having a
section about an inch broad cut through
one side, and to the centre of the bot-
tom, for the admission of the shoot or
branch.

M. Foulup employs " small tin cases
of a conical form, like the upper part
of a funnel, two and three-quarter
inches in length, and two and a sixth
inches in width at top, narrowing to-
wards the lower part till only sufficient
room is left for the introduction of the
shoot or branch intended to be propa-
gated. These cones are supported on



C IR



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rods, to which they are securRil by wire.
Commencing with the central branches,
the leaves are taken froin the parts
which the tin is intended to inclose;
the branch is cut two-thirds through as
in layering, and being enclosed by the
funnel, the latter is well packed with
moss. Moisture necessary lor favour-
ing the emission of roots is supplied by
means of a bottle, from which the bot-
tom is struck off, and the neck furnished
with a cork, perforated so as to admit
a small pigeon's feather or bit of wool
to form a syphon, by means of which
the moss is kept in a proper state of
moisture. Hard-wooded plants are pro-
pagated in this way from the middle of
May till the end of June ; and the
branches are sullicicntly rooted to be
taken off by the end of September. It
is, however, necessary in all cases, to
ascertain whether the branches are suffi-
ciently rooted previously to their being
separated. This is easily done by open-
ing up the edges of the tin ; when the
branches are found to be sufficiently
rooted they are potted off without re-
moving the moss by which the roots
are surrounded. Being moderately
watered, they are immediately placed
under glass on a slighthot-bed, and kept
shut up for a fortnight. They are then
gradually exposed, and afterwards
placed in the shade of large trees, so
that only half the rays of the sun shall
reach them." — Card. Chron.

ClKRllJF.A. Six species. Stove
epiphytes. Division. Wood.



CIRROPETALUM.



>cvcn species.



Stove epiphytes. Division. Wood.

C I R S I U M. Eighty-six species.
Hardy annuals, biennials, and herbace-
ous perennials. Seeds or division.
Common soil.

CISSAMPELOS. Six species. Stove
or green-house climbers. Cuttings.
Sandy peat.

CISSUS. Seventeen species. Stove
or green-house evergreen climbers.
Cuttings. Light rich soil.

CISTERNS for the accumulation of
rain-water should be formed in connec-
tion with the gutters of the various
buildings in the gardens, for no water
is equal to it for the artificial supply of
moisture to plants.

CISTUS. Thirty-nine species and
varieties. Hardy evergreen shrubs.
Layers or ripened cuttings. Common
soil.



C I T H A R E Y L U M. Nine species.
Stove evergreen trees. Cuttings. Peat
and loam.

CITRON. Citrus.

CITRUS. Fourteen species. Green-
house evergreen fruit trees or shrubs,
budding or grafting, and sometimes
cuttings. Rich loamy soil mixed with
dung.

For the structure of a house suitable
for their cultivation, see Orangery.
The following extracts from an essay
by Mr. Jones, gardener at Knowsley,
exhibits the successful practice in cul-
tivating this genus, pursued by Mr.
Burden, gardener at Hurst Plouse, Lan-
cashire.

Varieties. — Those who wish to culti-
vate the orange tree for the sake of the
fruit, ought to be very careful in making
a selection of sorts, especially of sweet
oranges.

The best way, perhaps, is to procure
grafts or young plants from such varie-
ties as have proved themselves to be
good in other establishments, or proved
plants from a nursery.

So/7. — Too much attention cannot be
paid to the soil ; its principal features
ought to bo lightness, richness, and
openness of texture, and unless it pos-
sess these qualities it is unfit for the
orange tribe.

Water. — This must at all times be
sparingly administered, especially if
the trees are kept in a high moist tem-
perature. Occasionally give a little
weak liquid manure.

Temperature. — Itisdoubtless an erro-
neous opinion, that if the atmospheric
temperature is S^ to 10^ above the
freezing point during winter, and is
never allowed to rise above 70^ or 80°
during summer, that the orange tribe,
other circumstances being flivourable,
may be cultivated successfully. Mr.
Durden never allows the temperature
of his house to fiill below 50^ during the
winter season, and during summer
retains a moist atmosphere of 80o or
903,

After-Culture. — In pruning, if the
plants are trained on trellises, the
branches should be kept thin to allow
the greater part of the leaves to be ex-
posed to the sun. The fruit is generally
produced at the tips of the small spurs
or brackets; therefore it would be a
positive injury to the crop to shorterv
any of these spurs, except it is desirable



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to increase their number. The opera- j plants to two feet apart. The sowing

tion of pruning is performed at any time I must be annual. Seed may be saved

when it appears to be necessary, always, i by allowing some plants to run up the

however, taking care to have a sue- ' next spring; they ripen their seed in

cession of young wood coming in. In September.

thinning the fruit, particular attention] CLAUSEN Apewiap/ii/Z/a. Stove ever-

ought to be paid to the state of the tree, green tree. Cuttings. Rich loam,

for the quantity of fruit must be entirely j CLAVIJA. Two species. Stove

regulated by the vigour of the tree ; no ; evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. Peat and

better rule can be laid down than that : loam.

for governing the operation of thinning. I CLAY is a constituent of all fertile

If a tree appears debilitated in the soils, though in these it rarely exceeds
extreme, it must not be allowed to carry one-sixteenth part, and generally bears
any fruit for an entire season. i a much smaller relative proportion to

One cause of debility is, allowing the ; the other constituents. In its pure
fruit to remain long after it is ripe. Of j state it is known as alumina. It is the
that required for confectionary purposes best of all additions to light, unretentive
a larger quantity may be lett on the soils, for it retains moisture much more
trees, but it must always be propor- ' powerfully than any other earth. M.
tioned to the capabilities of the tree. j Schubler found, that when silicious sand

Cleaning the Plants. — The greatest | lost eighty-eight parts of moisture, and
attention should be paid to cleanliness ; ; chalky sand seventy-six, stiff clay in the



the consequences of allowing insects to
overrun a collection of plants are fami-
liar to every one acquainted with gar-
dening.

" The aphis attacks the tender shoots



same time lost only thirty-five parts.
When clay has to be conveyed in large
quantities, and to a distance, it should
be dug and laid exposed in rough spits
to the air for several days before it is



and young leaves; the red spider the J carted, and, indeed, so should all earths;



more advanced foliage; and the coccus
hesperidum every part of the plant.

" Almost every gardener has his pe-
culiar nostrum for destroying these ani-
mals ; but a good preventive is cleanli-
ness in everything about the plants.

" The coccus may be brushed off,
using a brush that is no harder than is
just necessary to remove the insect.

" For the thrips red spider, and aphis,
a sponge and clean water will remove
them all, if used before the insects have
become very numerous.

" Fumigation should never be re-
sorted to except in extreme cases.



for, as Mr. Ciithbert Johnson states
his valuable Farmer^s Encyclopedia, if
one hundred cubic yards of chalk, clay,
or marl have to be moved, by drying
previously they will lose in weight as
follows : —

Chalk . , 20 to 24 tons.

Clay . , 32 " 42 "

Marl . . ]8 •' 26 "

For the improvement of clay lands,

by rendering their staple less retentive,

burning some of their own soil is an

efficient application. One hundred tons

per acre for this purpose are not too

many ; for a dressing as a manure, thirty



" The leaves should also be cleaned tons are a good quantity. Tiie follow
with a damp sponge as often as they ing is the mode of burning clay,
appear clogged by dust adhering to the ! " Let sods be cut of a convenient
resinous exudations on their surface." — size to handle, say a foot wide and



{Card. Chron. — Gard. Almanack.)

CLADANTHUS. Two species.
Hardy annual and half hardy evergreen
shrub. Seeds. Common soil.

CLARKIA. Three species and va-
riety. Hardy annuals. Seeds. Com-
mon soil.

CLARY. (Salvia sclarea.) Its leaves



eighteen inches in length ; with these
form a parallelogram or long square;
let the walls be a couple of feet thick,
and trampled or beaten firmly together,
and raised at least three feet high ; the
first heap should be so situated, that the
wind may blow against one of its sides;
it may be from four to six yards long,



are sometimes used in soups and medi- I by three yards wide, and an aperture
cated wines. A very small number of j within one yard of each end, and others
plants are sufficient for a family. Sow j at a distance of about five feet from
early in April, or a month earlier in these should be left in the side walls,
any light-soiled border. Thin the | when building, for the purpose of form-



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ing drain-like openings across the heap;
make one of these drain-like openings
from end to end in lengtli; these funnels
are to be built also with sods ; some dry
turf, such as is used for fuel, is to be
put into these funnels and over it, and
between the funnels well-dried sods or
any other combustible materials are to
be laid on to the depth of a couple of
feet over these sods, partially dried to
the level of the walls ; these materials
being set on tire, a powerful heat will
be produced, quite capable of burning
clay, without previously drying it. Care,
however, will be necessary to avoid
throwing it on in too great a quantity
at once, until the fire is well up, when
a large quantity may be thrown on. The
sod walls are to be raised as the heap
rises; and as soon as it is perceived by
the strength of the smoke and glow of
heat, that the mass is ignited in all its
parts, the apertures may be closed up,
and the heap left to become charred ;
should appearances indicate a likeli-
hood of the fire being smothered, it
will only become necessary to open one
or more of the funnels to secure its
acting. If the land on which the burned !
or charred clay is to be applied be defi-


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