trained to it, and its roots exhaust the
soil in their neighborhood very con-
siderably; as the south fence of a gar-
den it may be employed, and hawthorn
is perhaps the worst shrub that could
be made use of. It is the nursery of
the same aphides, beetles, and cater-
pillars, that feed upon the foliage of
the apple and pear, from whence they
spread to the trees nearest the hedge,
and finally overrun the whole garden ;
evergreen are better than deciduous
hedges, and more especially the holly,
which is not so slow a grower as is
generally imagined.
In a cloudy day in April or May, the
wind seems to be actually refrigerated
in passing through a thick hawthorn
hedge, and this may be accounted for
on the same principle that cool air is
obtained in the houses of India, by
sprinkling branches of trees with water
in their verandas. Holly, laurel, and
most evergreens, exhale but little mois-
ture from their leaves, except for about
a month in June, consequently in April
and May, when we most require warmth,
and in September and October, the
leaves of these, when fully exposed to
the sun become heated to the touch to
85° or 90"^. Added to this, hoar frost
or a deposition of moisture of any kind
never attaches so readily or remains
for so long a time upon the foliage of
evergreens as upon the sprays of decid-
uous shrubs, consequently the refrige-
ratory power is greatly diminished.
When the garden is of considerable
extent, three or four acres and up-
wards, it admits of cross-walls or
fences for an increase of training sur-
face and additional shelter.
Hedges should always be clipped into
a conical form, as the diminution of the
branches towards the top increases their
developement at the bottom.
Furze makes one of the best and
handsomest of hedges, if kept regularly
clipped. Upon the formation of such a
hedge, we have the following remarks
by Mr. McI. of Hillsborough : —
" The most ancient and perhaps the
most simple of all fences are walls
made of turf. These walls, however,
are much injured by the atmosphere,
and the rubbing and butting of the cat-
tle. To guard against this they should
be planted or sown with the Ulex Euro-
paus or Furze. The roots of this plant
will soon penetrate the turf, and tend
to bind the wall. The plants not only
afford shelter as well as food for the
cattle, but add to the height of the wall
and give it a formidable appearance.
When walls are made for this, the
foundation should be three feet wide,
and tapering to fifteen inches at top.
As the plants advance in growth, they
should be regularly trimmed with the
shears ; by proper attention to this they
will be prevented from growing too tall
and thin at the bottom. If this is an-
nually repeated, the plants will be
longer preserved in a healthy and vig-
orous state; clipping has also a good
effect in checking the furze from spread-
ing over the field. A good and substan-
tial fence may thus be quickly formed
over on a soil that will not produce a
biding fence of any other kind.
" Sweet Briar (Rosa Rubiginosa)
makes a good hedge. Its heps may be
sown in the autumn, as soon as ripe,
or, which is better, in the month of
March, having kept them in the mean
time mixed with sand. But it is far
more convenient to buy for sweet briar
layeryoung plants from the nurserymen,
and to plant them a foot apart early in
HED
289
H E L
the month of November. Let them
grow as tliey like the first year, and cut
them down to the ground the second,
they will then spring up and require
no more future care, than occasional
trimming with the pruning knife or
shears so as to keep the hedge in
shape. When it gets naked at the
bottom, it must be again cut down." —
Card. Chron.
The Laurustinus, Phillyrea, Laurel,
Furze, &c., referred to in the foregoing
article, are not sufficiently hardy to re-
sist the winter of the middle states, and
some of them would, it is presumed,
scarcely withstand the sun of the South-
ern. For ornamental hedges it is safer to
rely on the red and white Cedar, Chinese
and American Arborvitas, Juniper, Ame-
rican Holly, Variegated Euonymus,
Hemlock Spruce, &c. For purposes
of protection the Madura or Osage
Orange is unquestionably the best,
wherever it can sustain the winter —
which it is able to do so far North as
New York. The Buck Thorn (Rham-
nus catharticus) has been highly recom-
mended, more especially for colder
climates. The English method of plant-
ing on an elevated bank with ditch on
one or both sides, is inapplicable to
this country, where excess of moisture is
seldom felt : in other respects the mode
of treatment detailed in the preceding
article may be pursued in this climate.
For an interesting paper on this sub-
ject see Dowiiing's " Horticulturist."
HEDWIGIA balsamifera. Stove ever-
green tree. Cuttings. Sandy loam and
peat.
HEDYCHIUM. Twenty-two species.
Stove herbaceous. Division. Light rich
soil.
HEDYSARUM. Twenty species.
Hardy herbaceous. Division or seed.
Sandy loam and peat.
H E I M I A. Three species. Half-
hardy evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. San-
dy loam and peat.
HELENIUM. Eight species. Hardy
herbaceous. Division or seed. Com-
mon soil.
HELIANTHEMUM. One hundred
and twenty-one species. Chiefly hardy
and hall-hardy shrubs or trailers. Cut-
tings and seed. Sandy loam and peat.
HELIANTHUS. Thirty-four species.
Hardy herbaceous and annual. Seed.
Common soil. See Sunflower and Je-
rusalem. Artichoke.
19
HELIOCARPUS americanus. Stove
evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Sandj
loam and peat.
HELIOPHILA. Twenty-three spe-
cies. Hardy annuals and green-house
evergreen shrubs. Seeds or cuttings.
Sandy loam and peat.
HELIOPSIS. Three species. Hardy
herbaceous. Division. Common soil.
HELIOTROPIUM. Seventeen spe-
cies. Hardy annuals, and green-house
evergreen shrubs. Seed or cuttings.
Common soil.
The following are good directions for
the culture of the Heliotrope : —
" Prepare in August as many shallow
thirty-two sized pots as will be required,
by fdling them to the depth of an inch
and a half with broken crocks, upon
which a layer of the rough sifiings of
leaf mould should be laid ; the remain-
ing space should be tilled with a mix-
ture of finely sifted leaf mould and
silver sand, previously well incorporat-
ed, which when pressed down (irmly,
should be exactly level with the border
of the pots.
" For cuttings, the tips of the young
shoots about three inches in length,
should be chosen, and these should be
taken off immediately below a joint or
the base of a leaf bud.
"After removing two or three of the
lower leaves, plant the cuttings in the
pots prepared, about an inch and a half
deep, and two inches apart ; water them
well with a fine rose two or three times,
so that every part of the soil may be
thoroughly moistened, which may easi-
ly be known by the water percolating
tlirough the bottom of the pots. If this
is not attended to, and the surface soil
alone is penetrated by the water, cer-
tain failure will be the result.
"The cuttings, when planted, should
be removed to a cucumber or other
frame, where a tolerably damp heat
can be supplied ; they should be kept
shaded from the sun, and air admitted
in small quantities, only during the hot-
test part of the day. In about a fort-
night, the plants will begin to form
roots, and the shading may be gradually
diminished during the morning and af-
ternoon ; the quantity of air given them
may be increased by degrees, and at
the end of a month from the time ot
planting, the cuttings will be ready for
potting off singly.
" For this purpose large sized sixties
HEK
are lot adapCed, aad the aoil dMMld I
W i <— | w >«gJ of eqmal puti of louai
aad araady peat, widi aaall ({aaaAitiea
•f leaf aoald aad vdl deeajed bs-
â– are. Tke tvo latter oalj dedd be
afted, Aie Iiiaai aad peat beiag left
ntlicr ro^t, aad a &ir portkMi oT
dniaa^e beiag aaed, will aDow tke
«alcr to pass t/S Mote fteelj, wUdi is !
af tbe gicaleat: coaoeqaeace daciag the
mmtia Boatbs; Ae tipa«>f Ae ahoetsi
dboald also be piached ofi* to reader Ike i
^aats basbnr.
" Whem iwtted, Aej my be takes
badi to tbe fiaBe aad kept laAcr dooe
iar a fev dajs, aatfl Aiej begia to root
iato tdhe fiedi soil, after whKb air bmj
be fiedy ^Bitted to tbea. .Aboattlie
begiaaing of October th^ any be re-
moved to aa airy part of the gr^i~-
hoaa^ vhere, if pratected fioai r-
aad dae atSeatJOB will be paid to ^.l-
tenag, tihey will aarwire the wiater aa- i
iBJaied.'^ — GanL CTi—.
The Heliotrope Smms aa adwraUe
bolder plaat; wbea plained or plaated
oat eative, the blomo is pcodaeed ia
JaeifaiMliMe p «ofa M oa ihiu i jghuat td>e
nwiaiiTr, ewea tiU the appuMfb of frost;
wbea it aiay be i e | in ttrdj , aad ifured .
to a place of delter, a^aia to oecapy \,
its Offit door post, am Ae letara of aoa»- :^
â– er weatter.
HEI.L£BO]t1IiS. Siiae ipnaea. I
Hardy heibaceooK. Seed aad diwiraoa. i
CoiaBoasinl.
HELX£BiIA. Tface apeaeaL. Store
herbaceoaa. DiriMn. li^A tiA aoHL
HELOmAS. Three ipecies. Hardy
herboceoas. Divtsoa. Moist peat.
HKUKBOCAIJJS. Fire spe«»es.
Hardy heibaceoas. Dtviaoa. L^bti
HEMICLIDIA JSoiierr. Grces-
hoase eTevsveea sfatab. CMliags. TWrfy
hRoa, peat^aoid aaad.
HEMIDESMirSniduaB. Store eier-
gieca twiaer. Cattiags. Loaai aad peat.
HEMDiXXIS auateaa. Stoveberb-
aceows. Catti^a. Loaat aad peat.
H£iaO]!frnS jmlmmtm Stove feia.
DihrialoB. Loaai aad peat.
HEMLOCK. Caanak
HEMLOCE SPKOCE. Pinna caas-
HE3S^A 3nM:HM:JLKa.!S. SeeAswf.
HKliC SATREE.
HEPATICA. F<
VmrieUa. — 1. Great a^le Rae. 3.
Staudl Blae. 3. Paiple. -1. Leaser
White. 5. Great White. 6.
loared, or Aigeatiial. 7. White with
red ataaeaa. 8. Red. 9. Doable
Pafple. 10. DoaUe Blae. 11. DoaUe
While. 12. Sugie Yellow. 13. Peaeh-
coloaKed. 14. Sagle Piak.— ITsrical-
faralCUnuf.
They are p iopa gat ed by divinoa of
Ae roots ; aad grow best ia sandy loaai,
oa a weU-draiaed or t^tea sabsnl.
ma*! \ I.r TS b^lm mx. Gardea Swift.
A aolh, of wUch the caterpillar is
la e ie iad wcfiiaia a te ia ita aitadta lyoa
oar j^aats thas «« aay other rav^o- of
tir ri-iri. T" â– U rf amicalas,
n - I • : : ■. paianpa, lefc-
;-F. £-a stiawber-
~ : destroyed
-n^llv, is
:*>5ly.
timea this '
the appe
May, aad .
eveao^ ia
places. T
ready ariiiLi
saoa hatci
daced are
a^ute, aritt -
apper part w ^
Thec^erp... -
sUaiagcylbc. :•:::.:: —
heraca: 7} A
H ardy aar ^
HEBBA :
pereaaials
aaally, arh:. \:
ia die earth.
herba:
adrygaur^'^:
acoilectior.
faOy dried .
of a ac h a :
aace a Ai .
serred ia :
|daats, w>
graver woe .
oaght to c t
carried home -jl \
be dried bypres^
or wiA a hot bbl' :
these has its advaata^ea. M prcaaare
be eaaployed, a botaaical press any be
procared. The ptesa is nade of two
naoodi boards of hard wood, 18 iacbes
loag, 13 broad, aad 2 thick. Screws
â– nut be fixed ia eadi cocaer wiA aats.
HER
291
HER
If a press cannot easily be had, books moved, and the plants examined. I
may be employed. Next, some quires not sufficiently dried, they mav again
of unsized blotting paper must be pro- be replaced in the same manner for a
vided. The specimens, when taken day or two. In drying plants with a
out of the tin box, must be carefully hot smoothing iron, they must be placed
spread on a piece of pasteboard, co- within several sheets of blotting paper,
vered with a single sheet of the paper, and ironed till they become sufficiently
quite dry; then three or four sheets of dry. This method answers best for dr\ -
the same paper must be placed above ing succulent and mucilaginous plants,
the plant, to imbibe the moisture as it When properly dried, the specimens
is pressed out. It is then to be put into should be placed in sheets of writing
the press. As many plants as the press paper, and may be slightly fastened bv
will hold may be piled up in this man-
ner. At first, they ought to be pressed
gently. After being pressed for about
twenty-four hours, the plants ought to
be examined, that any leaves or petals
making the top and bottom of the stalk
pass through a slip of the paper, cut for
the purpose. The name of the genus
and species should be written down,
the place where it was found, nature of
which have been folded may be spread the soil, and the season of the year,
out, and dry sheets of paper laid over These specimens may be collected into
them. They may now be replaced in
the press, and a greater degree of pres-
sure applied. The press ought to stand
near a fire, or in the sunshine. After
remaining two days in this situation,
they should be again examined, and
dry sheets of paper be laid over them.
The pressure ought then to be con-
siderably increased. After remaining
three days longer in the press, the
genera, orders, and classes, and titled
and preserved in a portfolio or cabinet.
The method of preserving many of the
cryptogamous plants is more difficult,
on account of the greater quantity of
moisture which they contain, and the
greater delicacy of their texture." — En-
cyc. Am.
HERBARY was a department of the
garden formerly much more cultivated
plants may be taken out, and such as than at present, when the more potent
are sufficiently dry may be put in a dry medicinal plants of hotter climates are
sheet of writing paper. Those plants so easily procurable. The following is
which are succulent may require more a list of the tenants of the herbary, the
pressure, and the blotting paper to be appropriate cultivation of which will be
found under their particular titles : —
again renewed. Plants which dry very
quickly ought to be pressed with con-
siderable force when lirst put into the
press; and, if delicate, the blotting
paper should be changed every day.
When the stem is woody, it may be
thinned with a knife, and, if the flower
be thick or globular, as the thistle, one Caraway
side of it may be cut away, as all that Chamomile
is necessary, in a specimen, is to pre-
serve the character of the class, order,
genus, and species. Plants may be
dried in a box of sand in a more expe-
ditious manner ; and this method pre-
serves the colour of some plants better.
The specimens, after being pressed for
ten or twelve hours, must be laid with-
in a sheet of blotting paper. The box
must contain an inch deep of fine dry
Angelica.
Balm.
Basil.
Blessed Thistle.
Borage.
Burnet.
Chervil.
Coriander.
Dill.
Hyssop.
Lavender.
Liquorice.
Marigold.
Marjoram.
Mint.
Pennyroyal.
Peppermint.
Purslane.
Rue.
Sage.
Savory.
Scurvy Grass.
Tansy.
Tarragon.
Thyme.
Wormwood.
sand on which the sheet is to be placed, clava Herculis.
HERBERTIApu/f?ie//a. Half-hardy
bulb. Seed. Sandv loam and peat.
HERB-GRACE. 'See Rue.
HERCULES-CLUB. Xanthoxylum
H E R M A N N I A .
and then covered with sand an inch
thick ; another sheet may then be de- j Green-house evergreen
posited in the same manner, and so on, â– tings. Light rich soil
till the box be full. The box must be
placed near a fire for two or three days. Hardy and half-hardy orchids
Then the sand must be carefully re- | sidn. Chalk and peat
Forty species,
shrubs. Cut-
H E R M I N I U M . Three species.
Divi-
HER
292
HOE
HERON'S-BILL. Erodium.
HERPESTIS. Three species. Aqua-
tic perennials, stove or hard}'. Seed
or division. Rich light soil.
HERRERIA. Two species. Stove
evergreen twiners. Division. Loan)
and peat.
HESPERANTHA. Six species.
Green-house bulbs. Offsets. Sand,
Loam, and peat.
HESPERIS. Rocket. Fifteen spe-
cies, besides varieties. Hardy herba-
ceous and annual. Division or seed.
Rich light soil.
HESPEROSCORDUM. Two species.
Hardy bulbs. Offsets. Sandy soil.
HETERANTHERA. Three species.
Aquatics, stove, green-house, and har-
dy. Division. Sandy soil, in water.
HETEROPTERIS. Eight species.
Chiefly stove evergreen climbers. Cut-
tings. Sand, peat, and loam.
HEUCHERA. Nine species. Hardy
herbaceous. Division. Light soil.
HIBBERTIA. Ten species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs and twiners.
Cuttings. Sandy loam and peat.
HIBISCUS. Sixty-nine species, be-
sides varieties. Some annual and bien-
nial, but chiefly perennials, both hardy
and tender. Mr. Paxton says, " the
HOE. This is the implement which
should be most frequently in the gar-
dener's hand, for the surface of the soil
can never be too frequently stirred. I
entirely agree with Mr. Barnes in think-
ing the hoe one of the gardener's best
friends ; and, as it always must be a
more frequently used implement than
any other, what is the best form of its
construction deserves some considera-
tion. The handles should never be
made of heavy wood, for this wearies
the hand, and is altogether a uselessly
heavy weight thrown upon the work-
man. It is merely the lever, and every
ounce needlessly given to this, dimin-
ishes, without any necessity, the availa-
ble moving power. The best woods
for handles are birch or deal.
For earthing up plants, broad blades
to hoes are very admissible, and they
may, without objection, have a breadth
of nine inches; but this permission of
breadth does not extend to hoes re-
quired for loosening the soil and de-
stroying weeds. These should never
extend to beyond a breadth of six inch-
es, and the work will be done best by
one two inches narrower. The iron
plate of which they are formed should
be well steeled, and not more than one-
shrubby stove and green-house kinds sixteenth of an inch thick. The weight
all grow from cuttings, and thrive in
loam and peat. //. syriacus, from lay-
ers or seed, in common soil. The
hardy herbaceous kinds require a moist
soil." — Bot. Diet.
HIDE-BOUND. See Bark-hound.
HIERACIUM. One hundred and
nineteen species. Chiefly hardy herba-
ceous. H. glutinosum is an annual.
Seed in the open soil. The others by
division in light soil.
HILLIA. Two species. Stove ever-
green shrubs. Cuttings. Turfy loam
and sand.
HIPPEASTRUM. Two species.
Stove bulbs. Offsets. Turfy loam and
peat.
HIPPION. Three species. Green-
house biennials. Seed. Light rich soil.
HIPPOCREPIS. Nine species. Har-
dy perennial trailers and annuals. Cut-
tings or seed. Sandy loam and peat.
HIPPOPHAE. Four species. Har-
dy trees. Layers or cuttings. Common
soil.
HIRjEA. Four species. Stove ever-
green climbers. Cuttings. Sandy loam
and peat.
necessary should be thrown by the
workman's arm and body upon the
handle, and the thicker the blade, the
greater is the pressure required to make
it penetrate the soil. It should be set
on the handle at an angle of 68^, as
this brings its edge when used at a good
cutting angle with the surface of the
soil, and the workman soon learns at
what point most effectively to throw
his weight, and holds the handle fur-
ther from, or nearer to the blade, ac-
cordingly as he is a tall or short man.
Mr. Barnes, of Bicton Gardens, whose
opinions relative to hoeing I have al-
ready quoted, has paid considerable
attention to the formation of this im-
plement, and has favoured me with a
letter upon the subject, from which I
will now give some extracts.
He employs nine sized hoes, the
smallest having a blade not more than
one-fourth of an inch broad, and the
largest ten inches. The smallest are
used for potted plants and seed-beds,
and those from two inches and a half
to four inches wide are used for thin-
ning and hoeing among crops generally.
HOE
293
HOE
These have all handles varying in length ; The whole length of this prong is nine
from eight inches and a half to eighteen inches, and it is attached to a staff five
inches, all the neck or upper part form- feet long. Such an implement is light
ed of iron, for the smaller sizes not ! and easy to use; it requires no sloop-
thicker than a large pencil, and that ing, and will tear up the deepest-rooted
part which has to be grasped by the j weeds."'
workman is only six inches long, and ; Hoes are made in a great variety of
" formed either of willow or some other forms; the following, figured in The
soft light wood, which is best to the feel Rural Register, are those most gene-
of the hand; for hard heavy wood is ' rally used, and perhaps are all which
cumbersome, harsh, and tiring." Each i are truly desirable ; they are, when well
labourer works " with one in each hand,
to cut right and left." "The blade is
made thin, and with a little foresight
and activity it is astonishing how much
ground can be got over in a short
time."
Mr. Barnes has all his hoes made
with a crane neck. The blades broader
than four inches Mr. Barnes has made
like a Dutch hoe.
"The crane neck allows the blade
to pass freely and kindly under the fo-
liage of any crop where the earth re-
quires loosening; and the blade works
itself clean, allowing the earth to pass
through, as there is no place for it to
lodge and clog up as in the old-fash-
ioned hoc, to clean which, when used
of a dewy morning, causes the loss of
much time in scraping."
" The draw-hoe" is correctly de-
scribed by Mr. Loudon as a " plate of
iron attached to a handle about four
feet long, at an angle less than a right
angle. The blade is either broad for
cutting weeds, deep and strong for
drawing earth to the stems of plants,
curved, so as to act like a double
mould-boarded plough in drawing drills,
formed into two strong broad prongs
for stirring hard adhesive soils, — or it
is formed to accomplish the first and
last purposes, as in the double hoe or
Dutch hoe.
" The thrust-hoe consists of a plate
of iron attached somewhat obliquly to
the end of a handle by a bow, used only
for killing weeds or loosening ground
which is to lie afterwards raked. As
a man can draw more than he can push,
most heavy work will be easiest done
by the draw-hoc." — f2nc. Gard.
In the island of Guernsey a very ef-
fective weeding-prong is used, and is
thus described in the Gardener^s Chron-
icle : —
" It is something in the shape of a
hammer, the head flattened into a chisel
an inch wide, and the fork the same.
made, of cast steel.
Square garden Hoe.
Fig. 79.
Pronged-back
Hoe. Fig. SI.
Forked-back
Hoe. Fig. 82.
Dutch or Scuffle
Hoe. Fig. 85.
HOI
294
HON
HOITZIA. Three species. Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.
Sandv loam and peat.
HOLLY {Ilex aqui folium.) Of this
hardy evergreen shrub there are eight
varieties: — 1, silver-edged ; 2, golden-
edged ; 3, thick-leaved; 4, prickly;
5, yellow-leaved; 6, variegated; 7,
spotted ; 8, recurvum. It is so desira-
ble, as an ornamental and as a hedge-
shrub, that it deserves some more par-
ticular notice.
If grown as single ornamental shrubs,
in any poor light sandy soil, or in a
swampy situation, but likes a strong,
deep, dry, loamy soil." — Card. Chron.
The best season for clipping hollies
is early in spring, before they make
their annual growth.
The European Holly does not fully
resist the winter of Pennsylvania, un-
less on well drained land, and further
north it is probable it would suffer much
more, except in the vicinity of the sea,
where many plants do well that are not
able to withstand the winter of the same
they " should not be overshadowed by i latitude in the interior
other trees; and if the land is manured
for it so much the better. As to prun-
ing it, with a view to make it grow fast,
the less you do of that the better. All
that is necessary is to encourage the
leader, if necessary, by stopping any
laterals that try to interfere with it. In
the nurseries, when hollies are stunted
and bushy-headed, they are headed
down with a view to obtaining a clean
straight shoot; but they should not be
allowed to become stunted, and then
there would be no need to cut them
back. In hollies and all other things.
Our own native Holly, {Ilex opaca,)
is a fine plant too long overlooked. —
Why do not persons of taste decorate
their grounds with this noble American
evergreen, which will grow in any soil,
and resist the winter's frost and sum-
mer's sun throughout the length and
breadth of our continent.
HOLLYHOCK {Althaa rosea). There
is also a sub-species. A. R. Biloba.
This flower has lately gained the atten-
tion from florists it deserves; and there
are now many varieties. Dr. Lindley
justly observes that, "the hollyhock is
stop where necessary ; but prune not at j little more than a biennial, and fre-
all if you can help it." — Gard. Chron. \ quently dies suddenly if sown too early