and pulverize it well, which tends to
produce fine shaped roots." — Rural
Reg.

To obtain Seed. — Leave in April or
early May, some of the most perfect
plants of a main crop. When in full
vigour they must be taken up with as
little injury as possible to the roots and
leaves, and planted in rows three feet
asunder each way, being inserted by
the dibble, completely down to the
leaves. Water must be applied until
they have taken root, and occasionally
throughout their growth, especially
when in flower. If practicable, it is
best to leave some plants where raised.

To obtain seeds of the Black Span-
ish, some seeds must be sown in March,
or some of the winter-standing crop
left or transplanted during that month.

The flowers open from June until



Formerly the leaves were often boiled j August, and their pods are of a size fit
and stewed ; but now the roots are | for pickling, as they must be gathered
chiefly employed. The young seedling whilst young and tender, during that
leaves are often used with cress and last month, or July. For seed, they



mustard, as small salad, and radish seed
pods, when of plump growth, but still
young and green, are used to increase
the variety of vegetable pickles, and
are considered a tolerable substitute for
capers.

"The well known manner in which
this vegetable is cultivated, renders



must be cut as soon as they become of
a brown hue, and well dried, otherwise
it will thresh with difficulty.

Two varieties must never be raised
near each other, and seed of the pre-
vious year's raising should always be
employed.

Forcing. — A moderate hot-bed is re-
any observations thereon unnecessary. | quired for this crop, of a length ac-
All that is required, is to point out the j cording with that of the frame to be



RAF



491



RAM



employed ; the earth about eight inches frame of boards being formed round the

deep, on the surface of which the seed bed, light and air being admitted as

is to be sown as soon as the violent freely and as often as possible. If seed
heat is abated, and an additional half- i is sown within a frame without any

inch sifted over it. bottom heat, the plants will be two or

The seedlings are in general up in three weeks forwarder than if sown in

less than a week, and in six they will the open ground.

be ready to draw. Throughout their RAFNIA. Five species. Green-
growth air must be admitted as freely house evergreen shrubs. R. irijlora is
as is allowable. The glasses, however, a biennial. Young cuttings. Peat and
must be closed on the approach of even- loam.

ing, and mats or other covering put on | RAGGED ROBIN. Lychnis Flos-

in proportion to the severity of the sea- cuculi.

son. When the earth appears at all RAGS. See Ves;etahle Manures.



dry, a light watering must be given
during the noon.

The plants must not stand nearer
than two inches to each other. The



RAGWORT. Othonara.
RAGWORT. Senecio Jacohaa.
RAILING is of various forms, but
all, if made of wood, are soon decayed



temperature required is from 50° to ' if slight, and clumsy and inelegant if
70^; and it must be kept to this heat strong. Iron railing is at once light,
by moderate coatings as required. \ neat, and enduring, and like the follow-

If there be a deficiency of frames, I ing, may be purchased in England for
hoops and mats may be employed, a I about fifty cents per yard.

Fig. 139.




RAKE (Fig. 140). ''Garden Rakes
vary in the length and strength of their
teeth, as well as in their number; they
are used for covering seeds, raking off
weeds or cut grass, smoothing and
pulverizing surface, &c. This imple-
ment is rtow much less in use than
formerly, when broadcast sowing was
prevalent. Now the broad hoe is quite
as etiicient in covering drill-sown seed.

Fig. 140.




''The Grass Lawn Rake, (Fig. 141,)
has teeth sharpened on both edges,
and is used for raking the grass in order



to cut off the flower heads or buds of
daisies, dandelions, and other plants,
and the uneven tufts on grass lawns."
— Rural Reg.

Fig. 141,




RAMONDI A pj/renaico. Hardy herb-
aceous perennial. Division. Light
soil.

RAMPION. Phyteuma and Cyphia
Phyteuma.

RAMPION. Campanula rnpunculus.

Soil and Situation. — The soil ought
to be moderately moist, but it must be
light. A shady rich border is most
favourable. If it is cloddy or subject



RAN



492



RAN



to bind and crack in hot weather, the
plants will not thrive.

Time and Mode of Sowing, during
March, April, and M.iy,the plants from
sowing in the two first months, soon,
however, run up to seed.

The insertions are to be performed in
drills six inches apart.

The plants are to remain where sown ;
though in case of any deficiency, those
which are taken away in thinning the
crops, may be transplanted successfully,
if removed to a border similar to the
seed-bed, and inserted with the roots
perpendicular, and without pressing the
mould too close about them. The best
time for performing the removal is of an '
evening.

They are fit for thinning when of six
or eight weeks' growth, or when about
two inches in height; they must be set
at a distance of six inches apart, being
hoed at the time, and the same opera-
tion repeated two or three times.

The plants of the sowings during the
two first-mentioned months will be fit
for use at the close of August, or early
in September, and continue throughout
the autumn. Those of the last one will
continue good throughout the winter,
and until the following April.

The soil throughout their growth
must be kept moist by giving frequent
but moderate waterings through the fine
rose of a watering-pot, as required.

The root for which it is cultivated,
either to be sliced together with its
leaves in salads, or eaten as the radish,
as well as to be boiled like asparagus,
is most palatable when drawn young,
and eaten fresh from the ground.

To obtain Seed. — A few of the
winter-standing plants are left unmoved.
These shoot up in the spring, flowering
in July and August, and ripening abund-
ance of seed in early autumn. Nothing
more is necessary than to gather it be-
fore it begins to scatter, and to lay it on
a cloth to become perfectly dry before
thrashing.

RANDIA. Ten species. Stove ever-
green shrubs. Partly ripe cuttings.
Loam and peat, and a strong moist heat.

RANUNCULUS. One hundred and
two species, and many varieties. R.
asiaticus, the Garden Ranunculus, is
a truly beautiful flower, unfortunately
not adapted to the climate of the United
States.

Varieties: — Mr. Jackson, the florist



of Kingston, has published the follow-
ing selection : —

CLASS I. SELFS.

Q^lil Noir, very fine, dark rich colour ;
Naxara extra, fine dark (one of the best
of its class); Fete Nocturne, rich pur-
ple, fine; Duke of Bedford, large fine
formed, crimson ; Giles's Eliza, very
fine, straw, extra form, super variety ;
Costar's Apollo, very fine dark, rather
coarse ; Plaisance, very fine, yellow,
good form ; Les Vos, dark purple, very
fine ; Rosa Montana, superior bright
rosy crimson, excellent form; Tyso's
Nivis, fine white ; Costar's Tippoo Saib,
rich dark ; Condorcet, fine pure purple ;
Bouquet Nonpareil, dark olive, very fine.

CLASS II. ^

Flavimorus, cream, with purple edge,
very fine ; Tyso's Victoria, clear white,
with crimson edge, very fine ; Aust's
Henrietta, white, crimson-edged, good
shape, very fine; Horatio, yellow-edged,
fine free bloomer, not quite a pure
ground; Tyso's Herbert, yellow, with
red edge, very fine ; Temeraire, white,
red-striped (one of the best of its class);
Lightbody's William Penn, white, with
purple edge, very fine, strongly marked
ground, colour seldom pure; Melange
des Beautes, red and yellow-striped
(an excellent old flower, merits well
known) ; Tyso's Alexis, yellow-spotted,
extra fine, good form ; Tyso's Attractor,
white, with purple edge, large, very
fine ; Kilgour's Queen Victoria, cream,
crimson-edged, large, and extra fine ;
Costar's Coronation, half pink mottled,
very fine ; Grand Monarque, yellow-
edged, fine petals, rather loose ; Aust's
Nonsuch, white, purple-edged, distinct,
very fine; Tyso's Felix, buff", with dis-
tinct spot, extra fine ; Lightbody's No
JNIistake, cream, purple-edged, strong
marking, very fine ; Dr. Franklin, fine
clear white, with purple edge, very fine;
Tyso's Edgar, yellow-cofl^ee-edged, ex-
cellent form, extra fine ; Quentin Dur-
ward, yellow-edged, very fine colours,
rather thin ; Tyso's Delectus, yellow,
red-edged, very fine; Lightbody's Rob
Roy, cream, crimson edge, very fine;
Imbert, yellow, with faint-brown spot,
very good ; Tyso's Harmonius, yellow,
with dark spot, extra (one of the best of
its class); Herald, white, crimson-edged,
! very fine, excellent shape, high crown ;
' Tyso's Creon, buff", dark edging, very



RAN



493



RAN



fine; Glacia, yellow-mottled, large and must be dense and distinct; the purer
very line ; Paxos, white, vvith deep the white or yellow, and the more con-
purple edge, extra fine ; Biddal-s Duke irasted the edging or spotting is, the
of Wellington, yellow, delicate-edged, better the flower; in self's the more
very fine; Macrobius, white spotted, brilliant the colour is, the more likely

very fine*; Lightbody's Endymion, white, "- '^" .:..-. u... ... i.._ __ .l.

with delicate rose edging, very good ;



to be attractive ; but so long as the

colour is decided, the only advantage

Tyso's Premium, white, purple spot, that can be gained bycolour is novelty.

The outside of the petal should be as
bright as the inside.

If shown in a stand, there must not
be two alike : all the llowers in a row
should be of one size, and the back row
the largest."

Propagation. — By Seed. — To the Rev.
Joseph Tyso we are indebted for the
following directions : —

" Impregnate the double flowers with
the farina of the single ones. This can-
not be done with effect in every case ;
but whenever an old flower, with a
pericarpium or eye, gather a single or
semi-double flower, and apply the farina
to the eye of the double (lower.

" The seedlings will bear a striking
resemblance to the mother plant, as to
colour and habit of growth. The seed



very fine, high crown ; Aust's Queen
Victoria, white, with delicate edging,
very fine ; Saladin, fine yellow, with
faint spot; Sophia, cream, with rose
edge, very good ; Tyso's Vendome,
cream, with dark purple edge, e.iitra
fine, rather spotted : Waterstone's
Epirus, yellow - spotted, very fine. —
Gard. Chron.

Character Sportive. — " There is in
the ranunculus what is by florists called
a sportive character — that is, they run
from their original colour. Some that
have yellow ground, delicately spotted,
will come plain yellow, and some red
and white striped will come plain red ;
sometimes the colours will mix, and
the flowers will become dingy." —
Gard. Chron.

" Sometimes the flowers will be as may be sown at all seasons, from the
green as the grass of the plants from 1st of August to the 1st of March,
which they grow. Some of the finest the middle or latter end of October,
seedlings are weak, and therefore die and the beginning of January. Sow in
in a few years, though for a short time boxes eighteen inches by eleven inches.



they had great renown. Such has been
the case with Abbe St. Andrew, Quixos
Viol le Vrai Noir, Grand Berger, and
Rose Incomparable, and some others of



and four inches deep, full of loamy
earth, and the surface level. Sow the
seeds about an eighth of an inch apart;
cover them as thinly as possible, and



later date. But there are others of water with a fine rose ; but place the
first-rate character which are remark- boxes under glass, without heat. The
ably strong, and increase abundantly, plants usually make their appearance
such as Attractor, Felix, Saladin, Ed- ; in about a month. Give air day and



gar, Eureka, Victor, and many others. '■
—Ihid.

Characteristics of a Good Flower. —
"The form of the ranunculus should



night, except in severe frost ; then cover
up with straw mats. With such pro-
tection, the young plants will endure
the severest seasons. Clean the surface



be two-thirds of a ball; petals, broad, of the boxes from green moss in Feb-

thick, free from notch ^r indentation, ruary, and top dress them. Put the

cupping a little, and disposed that boxes in the open ground up to the

each cover the place where the two second week in May, and water daily

under ones join ; commonly concealing until the grass begins to wither; then

the anthers, abundance of petals lying sufi'er the boxes to become quite dry ;

close over each other, and forming a and in the middle of July, take them

compact flower, open enough to show up, and preserve the roots in bags until

the colour on their inside, but not February, and then plant them as the

enough to be loose; and the under general stock. In the following June

ones must hold well in their places, they flower in great profusion." — Gard.

forming a square, if not a hollow back. Mag.

The stem thick, strong, and elastic; By Offsets. — -'Unlike the ofisets of

but the flower upright, and from one ' the hyacinth and tulip, those of the

and a half to two inches in diameter, ranunculus generally attain perfection
The colour is a matter of taste, but ] in the season of their formation on the



RAN



494



RAN



parent plant, and are, therefore, fit to I will not reach it at all, or if they do,
be planted as full grown tubers the their sudden transition into deep corn-
same season in which they are removed. ' post is at least unnatural: it is more
Smaller ones, which are unfit to bloom ' consonant with reason that the food
the following year, may be planted in a ! should be generally and equally dis-
hed prepared, as to be directed for the ' tributed." — Card. Chron.
full sized roots." ! Planting. — "The bed being about

By Dividing the Tubers. — In minutely I four feet in width," adds Dr. Horner,
examining the crown of a ranunculus '" and any suitable length, and having
root, several small protuberances will ; been neatly smoothed over, the roots
be found, from each of which a shoot | should be planted about five inches
will arise, and the root may, therefore, j distant from each other in rows, which,
be divided by a sharp knife into as ! again, should be about six inches apart,
many parts as there are protuberances; If planted closer, as is commonly the
and "thus the danger of losing any rare case, the plants will grow comparatively
variety is much diminished. These j weak, and bloom more sparingly.



sections will not bloom till the second
year." — Hort. Trans.

Soil. — Mr. Hovy of Boston, one of
the best of the American horticulturists,
is quite right in recommending, as " the
best soil tor the ranunculus, a strong
rich mellow loam ; but good garden
loam, enriched with very old cow ma-
nure, or leaf-mould, will answer — fresh
mould, however, will insure a much
better bloom."

" A somewhat moist and cool situa-
tion," says Dr. Horner, one of the best
of amateur floriculturists, " is the most
suitable. The bed, therefore, should
be so situated that it receive but a few
hours of the morning sun, and be in the
lowest part of the garden. It must not
be raised higher than the surrounding
walks ; should be two feet in depth of
soil, and have board instead of box
edging, that slugs, &c., which often eat
the tender foliage and opening flower-
buds of some varieties, may not be
sheltered. The only suitable soil is a
retentive loam, from the surface of a
rich old pasture, the sods included ; to
which should be added, and well in



The situation of the rows having
been marked out, holes, one and a half
inch deep, should be dibbled with the
finger, or other instrument, in which
the roots should be compactly set, and
covered over with soil, after the manner
of dibbling beans, by this means the
surrounding soil is not disturbed, but
left close and retentive.

" The next best plan is drawing drills
across the beds in rows, setting the
roots therein, and then filling them up
with the displaced soil ; the worst of all
plans being the raking the bed evenly
over, setting the roots on it, and then
covering the whole one and a half inch
with loose soil — yet this is commonly
practised." — Ibid.

Choice of Roots. — Mr. Glenny recom-
mends " the middle sized, with firm
tubers and plump buds, as preferable
for planting; and care should be taken
to place a little sand under and over
each, to guard them against too much
moisture." — Gard. and Pract. Florist.

General Management. — " About the
beginning of April," says Dr. Horner,

the young plants will appear above



corporated, one third of thoroughly- ground, when the loosened soil should
decayed cow manure. Fresh manure , be carefully yet firmly compressed with
must be avoided, as the roots will not ; the fingers abAt the roots,
bloom where it exists, but many will j «< During the months of April and
perish. All hot and stimulating com- May, should a continuance of dry
posts are equally pernicious. With the : weather prevail, water may be cautious-
enriched soil just recommended, the ly administered at intervals in an even-



bed should be made at the beginning
of October, and finished off, and, on no
account, disturbed till planting time ;
for it is all important that the soil be
compact and close in which the roots
are planted.



ing, but only just so much as will pre-
vent the soil of the bed from cracking;
or a little moss, or old spent tanner's
bark, &c., may be neatly placed be-
tween the rows, which will retain the
moisture in the soil. The injudicious



" The practice of putting some inches and over abundant application of water
of manure at the bottom of the bed is i is a very common error, and one of the
not to be commended ; the roots either j greatest evils. It not unfrequently hap-



RAN



495



RAP



pens that plants, which have looked
well for a time, at length begin to turn
yellow in the foliage, and the flower
buds dwindle and go off.

" The dying of the leaves in some in-



be put into paper bags." — Gard. and
Prac. Flor.

Late Succession of Blooms. — To ob-
tain this, wo have ihe following direc-
tions by Mr. H. Groom, the well known



stances evidently depends on a want of florist :-
vigour, or partial rot in the root ; and, 1 " The beds are prepared in the usual
in some few cases, it would appear to manner, the ground immediately after-
be caused by large earthworms, forming wards well watered with lime water;
their wide tracks amid the roots of the but to destroy the worms, which are
plants, nearly undermining them ; but otherwise apt to draw the roots from
in the great majority of cases, it is pro- ! their places; afterwards water with



duced by injudicious watering.



1 clear cow-dung water, until the foliage



During the expansion of the flower makes its appearance. The beds are



buds, and when they are fully blown, a
stage and awning should be erected
over the bed, as in the case of tulips,
that rain and hot sun may be excluded ;
and gentle watering every second or



then kept shaded from nine in the morn-
ing till five or six in the evening, till the
bloom is over. For a bloom all the sea-
son, commence in February, and plant
every fortnight or three weeks; in Sep-



third evening, may be given, which will ' tember, plant in a frame, and you will
keep the bed cool and moist, and pro- have a bloom about January or Februa-
mote the size of the flower. As much | ry." — Hart. Trans.



air should be admitted as possible, that
the flower-stems be not drawn and
weakened." — Gard. Citron.

Protection during Winter. — This
is essential ; and the following plan,
adopted by Mr. (ilenny, is excellent : —



Forcing. — Mr. Bouche of Berlin, a
florist, gives these directions : —

" Select tubers which have been kept
three or four months, or even a year,
over the season of planting, these being
more easily excited than those which



Let the bed be made just the size have been only the usual time out of the
of a cucumber frame; place one of [ soil, plant them in pots about the be-
these on the bed, and if there is danger j ginning of August; and, by bringing
of heavy rains, or severe weather, put these into the green-house at diflierent
on the sashes. As soon as heavy frost periods, a bloom is kept up from Octo-
sets in, the whole of the interior of the ber to February." — Gard. Mag.
frame must be filled with leaves, and ! RAPE, or COLESEED. Brassicana-
the sashes replaced, and a few hoards ' pus esculentns. I ike mustard and other
laid on to keep the leaves from blowing '■ small salading, it may be sown at any
away. In this manner, the whole may period of the year, when in request,
remain until April, or until all danger being allowed a separate bed. It ia



of frost is over, when the leaves, frames,
&c., may be entirely removed." —
Gard. and Prac. Flor.

Taking up the Roots. — Upon this
point, the same excellent authority di-
rects this to be done " a fortnight after
the last flowers have faded, when the
foliage looks yellowish. It is a very
nice operation, and should not be done



cultivated as Mustard, which see.

To obtain Seed. — Some plants of a
sowing made about the middle of July
must be thinned to eighteen inches
apart; they will survive the winter, and
flower in the May and June of the next
year. The seed, which is produced in
great abundance, ripens in July and
August, and must be cut as it does so,



hastily. The best way is to pare off ancl laid upon cloths to dry, as it is very
three inches of the sod into a sieve, if apt to shed.

the bed is composed of mixed sorts, } RAPE (EDIBLE-ROOTED). This
and then, by shaking out the earth, the name may be applied to a variety of the
roots will remain. rape mentioned by Mr. Dickson, one of

"When the varieties are named, the vice-presidents of the Horticultural
they must be taken up singly, and put Society. Its root is white and carrot-
in a box correctly labeled. They must shaped, about the size of the middle-
not be placed in the sun, but may be finger. It is much more delicate in
carried to a dry room, where they may flavour than the turnip, like which root
remain till the earth is sufficiently dry it is cooked, only that it is not peeled
to shake off easily, when they should | but scraped, its skin being rntnarkably



RAP



496



R AS



thin. It has been cultivated for a great
length of years on the continent, and
for about thirty years in this country ;
but only by one person, as far as Mr.
Dickson is aware.

Time of Sowing. It is propagated by
seed, which, for the main crop, may be
sown from the middle of July to the
end of August, or even later.. These
will supply the table until April ; and
if wanted throughout the year, a little
may be sown in the latter end of Octo-
ber, the plants from which vvill be fit
for use, if they succeed during April
and May : the last crop to be inserted
from the middle of January to the mid-
dle of February, which will come in at
the end of May and during June. On
a north border, and if the soil is sandy
and moist, it is possible to have them
sweet and tender during the whole
summer, to effect which the seed must
be sown at the close of March and May.

Cultivation is the same as turnips. In
dry weather the beds must be watered
regularly until the plants have got three
or four leaves.

Soil. — One great advantage attending
the cultivation of this vegetable is, that
it requires no manure. Any soil that is
poor and light, especially if sandy, is
suitable to it. In rich manured earth it
grows much larger, but not so sweet
and good.

To obtain seed. — Mr. Dickson recom-
mends, in February or March, some of
the finest roots to be transplanted to
two feet asunder; but it would perhaps
be a better practice to leave them where
grown. The ground is to be hoed re-
peatedly, and kept clear of weeds. The
seed must be cut as soon as ripe, and
treated as directed for turnips, &c.

RAPHANUS. Three species. Har-
dy annuals, except R. landra, which is
an herbaceous perennial. Seed. Rich
mould. See Radish.

RAPHIOLEPIS. Four species.
Half-hardy evergreen shrubs. Cuttings.
Loam, peat, and sand.

RASPAILIA microphylla. Green-
house evergreen shrub. Young cuttings.
Sandy peat.

RASPBERRY. Rubus idaus.

Best Varieties. — Red. — Fastolff, or
Bee-hive, Franconia, Antwerp, red ;
Barnet ; Cornish; Double-bearing, and
Gennessee.