Yellow. — Antwerp, yellow; Cox's
Honey; Old white.



The Fastolff (Fig. 142) has been " re-
cently received from England, where
it was raised or discovered near the
castle of that name. It has produced
fruit at Philadelphia the two past sea-
sons, and quite equals its transatlantic
character, which is higher than that of
any of its tribe. The fruit is large, deep
red, inclining to purple, well flavoured,
and yielded longer than usual. Such was
the description written before the fruit
of the present year (1846) had matured ;
another season's observation has con-
firmed it. The annexed drawing, ac-
curately copied from nature, has been
supplied by Doctor William D. Brinckle.
The plants are yet scarce, and conse-
quently higher priced than the old va-
rieties ; but from its adaptation to our
climate, it will, it is hoped, be speedily
increased, and widely distributed — so
valuable an acquisition one could desire
to see domesticated in every garden in
the land." — Rural Reg.

The Franconia was " imported from
France some years since; it is hardy,
fruitful, and may be safely recommend-
ed as in all respects desirable. This is,
perhaps, taking all its merits into ac-
count, next in value to the Fastolff'."
— Rural Reg.

Propagation by Seed. — New varieties
are easily raised from seed. Wash
away the pulp from some of the finest
thoroughly ripe fruit, dry the seed, and
sow it the same autumn in a dry border,
giving it the shelter of a frame through
the winter. Trim and plant out the
seedlings to remain in the autumn fol-
lowing, and they will bear in the suc-
ceeding summer.

By Suckers. — These spring from the
root annually, and grow from three to
five feet in height the same year, form-
ing plants by autumn or winter for
transplanting, to bear fi uit the following
summer.

Planting maybe done any time from
October till March, the earlier the bet-
ter, in open weather. Raise the plants
carefully with plenty of fibres; shorten
any long straggling root; and cut off
any naked woody part of the root of
the old stool, observing at the same
time, if one or more buds appear near
the root, they, being the embryo of
future shoots, must be very carefully
preserved ; and shorten each sucker at
top to about three or more feet long,
according to their strength — they are



4D7
Fig. 142.— vP. 496.)




1^ h.



u-



32



RASPBERRY.



R AS



49S



RED



then ready for planting : having previ- [ Mr. Mearns recommends, "in May
ously to this chosen an open spot of! the removal of the young fruit-bearing
good ground and trenched it, put in the ! shoots from the canes, leaving in some
plants as soon as possible, in rows a I cases one or two eyes, in others cutting
yard and a half apart, and a yard asun- them clean off. Under either plan they
der in the rows. If planted closer the I soon show an abundance of vigorous
plants, producing numerous suckers in ' shoots, frequently three or four from
summer, grow so close as to exclude each eye, which produce plenty of blos-
the due influence of sun and air from soms in the beginning of Julv, and on
the fruit, as well as render it trouble- ^ these a good crop of fine raspberries is
some to gather the produce. If the ! borne in August." — Hort. Trans.



planting is performed late in the spring,
give a good watering, and repeat it oc-
casionally till the plants have struck
fresh root.

After-Culture. — Keep them clean
from weeds all summer by broad hoe-
ins, giving an annual dressing in au-



Training. — The earliest and finest
are obtained from canes planted beneath
a south wall, and trained against it in
this form. (Fig. 143.) But in the open
ground the best mode of training is
round small hoops, thus. (Fig. 144.)
The worst form is plaiting the canes



tumn, cutting down the decayed stems j together; and training in arches or other



that bore the preceding summer. Thin
the young succession bearers; clear
away all intermediate suckers between
those of the main stocks ; and then
point with a fork the ground betvveen
the rows.

Previous to the above-mentioned an-
nual dressing of raspberries, observe
that, as they produce a fresh supply of
shoots or suckers every year for bear-
ing the next, therefore the annual dress-
ing be performed anytime from October
till March. First proceed to clear out
all the decayed stems, being last sum-
mer's bearers, breaking them down
close to the bottom ; then examine the
supply of young shoots for next year's
bearing. In March select three or four
of the strongest shoots on each stool,
cutting all the others away close to the
ground ; shorten those left according
to their strength, cutting them genera



compact forms, excluding the light and
warmth of the sun, is little better.




Forcing. — Raspberries may be forced
growing either in pots or in the borders
of the house. They may be also plant-
ed on the outside of a pit, the bearing
canes being introduced withinside and
ly a little below the bend, at the top of, trained to a trellis, whilst the present



the shoots, to about three or four feet ^ year's^shoots are left outside.
in length, both to render them more
robust, to support themselves more
firmly upright in summer, and to pro-
mote a stronger supply of laterals for
flowering and fruiting. Allow them a
little rotten dung or leaf-mould once
every other year, applying it in the
spring. Make a plantation every four

or five years in a fresh spot of ground ; evergreen shrubs or trees
as, after that period of time, the plants, ' Loam, peat, and sand,
although they may continue shooting ^

with tolerable vigour, yet are apt to be
less fruitful, and the fruit smaller, than
in younger plantations in fresh ground.
— Abercrombie.

Autumn Crop. — To obtain of the
Antwerp, and other large varieties.



RATABIDA columnaris, and its va-
riety. Hardy herbaceous perennials.
Division or seeds. Common soil.

RATTLESNAKE FERN. Botrichium
virginicum.

RATTLESNAKE ROOT. Folygala
senega.

RAUWOLFIA. Four species. Stove
Cuttings.



REAUMURIA. Two species. Half-
hardy evergreen shrubs. Young cut-
tings. Loam, peat, and sand.

RED BAY. Laurus carolinensis.

RED CEDAR. Juniper us virgiriiana.

RED GUM TREE. Eucalyptus re-
sinifera.



RED



499



REN



RED NIGHTSHADE. Erica Hali- in tan and labour is also very grest ;
cacaba. in some places tan is expensive, and

RED SPIDER. See Acarus. \ where it is cheaper, the trouble and

REEDS. See Shelter. ; litter incident to its emiiloyinent, and

REEV'ESIAr/i!/7-so(rfea. Green-house the dangers of loss from fungi and in-
evergreen shrub. Ripe cuttings, with sects, of which it is the peculiarly
the leaves. Light turfy loam, or loam ; fertile foster-parent, render it objec-
and peat. i tionable as a source of heat. And

R EH M AN fs I A chinensis. Hardy Whenever the tan has to be renewed,
herbaceous perennial, but it succeeds the trouble and destruction of plants is
best in a cool green-bouse. Cuttings, always great.
Common soil. I "In my new propagating house,"

REICH A RBI A hexapetala. Stove says Mr. Rendle, " the tank or cistern
evergreen shrub. Cuttings. Rich soil ! is placed in the centre, with a walk
and a strong heat. I surrounding it, so as to enable the

RELHANIA. Five species. Green- ^ propagator with greater ease to attend
house evergreen shrubs. Cuttings. I to the plants, &c.
Loamy soil.

RENANTHERA
Stove orchids. Cuttings



'On the outside of the bouse is a
Three species, j fire-shed, in which the boiler is fixed.
I'eat mixed I The tank, made of wood, one and a
vith broken potsherds, moss, or wood, half or two inches thick, which I find
RENDLE'S TANK SYSTEM. First' the cheapest material, (it also prevents
suggested, I believe, by Mr. Rendle, | the water cooling so fast as it does
nurseryman, of Plymouth. I have given, I either in stone or iron,) may be lined
in the customary monthly calendars, the ' with lead or zinc. Exactly in the cen-
necessary intimations when the bark- j tre of the tank is a partition, serving
beds will probably require stirring, but ' the double purpose of causing the water
those troublesome, uncertain, and dan-! to circulate, (as well as to support the
gerous operations, dangerous to the edges of the slates,) an aperture being
plants, are entirely rendered needless ' left in the partition, of about two inches
by Mr. Rcndlc's plan. It has been i in breadth, to allow the water a free
adopted by some of the best practical j passage. The flow-pipe enters near



gardeners with entire satisfaction.



the appendage of the tank, at the mouth



A tank of iron or wood, twenty feet of which pi()e a ])iece of perforated
long, five feet broad, and six inches, copper is placed, as also at the return-
deep, is constructed in the centre of pipe, to prevent dirt and sediment from
the house, and surrounded by a walk, finding its w-ay into the boiler. After
except at the end, where the boiler is everything is properly fixed, the tank
fixed for heating it. The top of the is filled with water, which, of course,

tank is covered with large slabs of at the same time fills the boiler

slate, cemented together, to prevent The tank is about four inches deep,
the excessive escape of steam. Around Across it, and resting on its sides, are
this is a frame sufficiently high to re- placed slate stones about an inch and a



tain the bark, in which the pots are
plunged. The boiler and tank are
filled with water, and this circulates,
when the fire is lighted under the
former, by means of two pipes, one
from the top of the boiler, and the



half thick, cut square at the edges.
These are fistened to each other bv
Roman cement, or Aberthaw lime, to
prevent a superfluity of steam from

escaping into the house Around

the edges of the slates a piece of inch



other returning nearer to its bottom, board, about nine inches deep, should
The expense of piping, and danger of be placed to enclose the sawdust, sand,
their freezing, is avoided ; the fire only moss, or other plunging material.



requires to be kept lighted for two
hours at night, and again for the same



In the following sketch, for which,
as well as for the next, I am indebted



period in the morning; the water, to Mr. Rendle, ^4 is a transverse see-



when once heated, retaining its tem-
perature for a long time. In a small
house, the apparatus can be constructed
for 5/., and in all, for less than half the



tion of Rogers's conical boiler; B is
the fireplace ; g, the tank : c, the flow-
pipe; d, the pif)e by which the water
returns to the boiler; e, is the hole for



cost of hot-water pipes. The saving the smoke, which, joined to aflue, /,



REQ



500



RH A



can be made either to ascend the chim-
ney at once, or to pass round the house.

Fiff. 145.




The next sketch is a Pinery,
up with Mr. Rendle's tank.

Fig. 146.



fitted




It is described as " a very useful and
most desirable structure for the growth
of the Pine Apple, with a hollow wall,
recommended by all garden architects
in preference to a solid wall — the heat
or cold being not so readily conducted
as through a solid mass of masonry."
Mr. Rendle might have added, that
hollow walls are also much drier. —
Rendle's Treatise on the Tank Systetn.
See Stove, &c.

REQVIENIA obcardata. Stove ever-
green shrub. Young cuttings. Peat,
loam, and sand.

RESEDA. Mignonette. Seventeen
species. Chiefly hardy annuals, bien-
nials, herbaceous perennials, and a few
green-house evergreens. Cuttings or
seeds. Light rich soil. See Mignon-
ette.



perature, and the least degree of light
compatible with healthy growth must
be secured ; and to this end plants for
succession are often placed on the
north side of a wall.

Then again, as in the case o^ rasp-
berries and strawberries, plants are
often cutdown in the spring, compelling
them to form fresh foliage and stems,
and thus be productive in the autumn
instead of the summer.

The vegetation of many bulbs may
be prevented by merely keeping them
dry, and, indeed, the withholding the
usual supply of water, giving it only in
diminished quantities, is necessary in
all retarding treatment. To secure the
entire quiescence of bulbs, and of sucli
plants as will bear so low a tempera-
ture, the atmosphere of the ice-house
is effectual ; and to this end it should
have a few shelves for the support of
boxes or flower pots. Banks o^ earth
ranging east and west, and facing the
north at a very acute angle, are very
useful in retarding the early advance to
seed in hot weather, of spinach, let-
tuces, &c. Espaliers ranging similarly,
and shaded during the whole of March,
and the two following months, will
blossom later and more unfailingly than
trees more exposed to the sun in spring.
Similar exclusion of heat and light re-
tards the ripening of picked fruit, and
if the air be excluded from them, or
its oxygen withdrawn, fruit will remain
unripened for weeks. To efl'cct this,
put a paste formed of lime, sulphate of
iron, and water, at the bottom of a
wide-mouthed glass bottle, then a layer
of large pebbles to keep the fruit from
the paste, — then fill the bottle with
peaches, apricots, or plums, gathered
a few days before they are ripe, cork
the bottle tight, and cover the cork
with melted resin. They have been
thus kept for a month, and summer
apples and pears for three months.
They ripen when again exposed to the
air.

RHAMNUS. Thirty-eight species.
Chiefly hardy evergreen, or deciduous
shrubs, or trees. Layers, seeds. Com-
mon soil. The few stove and green-



RETARDING requires as much skil
as forcing, for as the latter requires the : house kinds, increase by cuttings; and
application of all that is suitable to the • require a light soil,
promotion of a plant's rapid healthy ! RHAPIS. Two species. Dwarfish
growth, so retarding requires the with- palms. Suckers. Sandy loam,
holding from it of those contingencies, i RHAPONTICA. Four species.
Thus to retard growth, the lowest tein- , Hardy herbaceous perennials, except



RH E



601



RH



R. pulchra, â– Khich is a biennial. Divi- cies, and many varieties. Hardy and

sion. Common soil. half-hardy evergreen shrubs, except R.

R H E E D I A javanica. Stove ever- rhodora, which is deciduous and hardy,

green tree. Ripe cuttings. Pe^t, loa.m, • R. ponticitm, Common Rhododendron,

and sand. R. maximum ; R. Caucasicum ; R. cam-

R HEM AN E.I A ckinensis. IWrdy panulatum ; and R. Catawbiensis, are
shrub. Cuttings and layers. Rich light the best hardy species. It is to be re-
loam, gretted that such a noble evergreen

RHEUM. Rhubarb. Fifteen spe- shrub as R. maxiinum should be so sel-

cies. Hardy fusiform-rooted peren- dom seen in our grounds. Here in the

nials. Division or seed. Rich loamy United States, where it is indigenous,



soil. See Rhubarb.



it is really less known than in England,



RHEXIA. Four species. Hardy herb- where it forms one of the main features

aceous perennials. Division. Peat soil, of the undergrowth in lawns and plea^

R HINOPETALUM karelini. sure grounds, — when will Americans

Hardy tuberous-rooted perennial. Off- learn to estimate as they deserve, their

sets. Light rich soil. own natural products! From the above

RHIPODENDRON plicatile, and its named species have been obtained the

variety. Green-house evergreen shrubs, following superior
Suckers or leaves slightly planted.



Sandy loam and peat.

RHODANTHE min^lfsii.



Varieties. — R. Russellianum, scarlet ;
R. Lowei, pale straw; R. tigrinum,
fireen- pale rose: R. nobleanum, dark red ;



house annual. Dr. Lindiey recommends R. splendidum, (Cunningham's,) white ;
that " its seeds should be sown at two | R. altaclerence, scarlet; R. multimacu-
seasons: the first about the beginning latum, pale rose, spotted ; R. arboreum
of September; the second about the roseum, bright rose ; R.Victoria, deep
end of February. The soil the seeds red; R. venustum, pink ; R. augustum,
are sown in should be rather strong, pale flesh spotted ; 11. pulcherrimum,
but not rich, for the first sowing, con- scarlet ; R. grandiflorum, (Cunning-
sisting of a mixture of sandy loam and | ham'Sjl pale flesh; R. macranthum,
leaf-mould. They should be sown in rose; R. Knightii, scarlet ; and R. Car-
pots and placed in a cold pit or frame, ! narvonianum, bright rose,
if sown in the autumn, which should be Hybrids with Azalea. — R. Adonsonii ;
kept close until the plants are up. The R. Azaleoides; R. azaleoides album ;
young plants should be potted otf when R. fragrans; R. luteum; and R. Gow-
emall, for if allowed to get large before ' erianum.

potting, they never do any good ; put a Green-house Species and Varieties. —
single plant into a small sixty-pot, they ' R. anthopogon, purple ; R. arboreum
must then be returned to the pit or cinnamomeum, reddish purple ; R. lap-
frame, and keptclose until they recover ponicum, crimson; R. setosuni, purple,
the effects of the shift ; afterwards hard- i Characteristics of Excellence. — Mr.
en by admitting air. Then when there Glenny gives the following good crite-
is danger of frost, remove them to an ria : — " The flower large, circular, and
airy part of the green-house for the campanulated, or hollow like a globular
winter, taking care that they are not cup. The five divisions of the petals
over watered ; for much depends on should be concealed by means of the
the manner in which they are treated lapping over. The petal thick, smooth-
during the winter, as too much or too edged, and stiff. The truss, pyramidal
little water will destroy the healthiest or dome-shaped, standing clear of the
plants in a short time. In the spring, foliage; the flower compact, touching,
February, repot them into a richer but but not crowding each other; footstalks
light sandy soil, and place them in a stifle and elastic. The colour brilliant,
warmer and moister situation, and pinch ! the spots distinct and contrasted, and
off'all the first flowers as they appear. ! stand well without fading. The plant

" The spring-sown plants may be should be bushy, the foliage bright,
treated like other half-hardy annuals, clear, green, large, and disposed ail
only they must have plenty of air to round the branch, especially round the
keep them from being drawn up weak- ' flower ; the stems should be well cover-
]y," — Card. Chron. \ ed with leaves, and the bloom should

RHODODENDRON. Twentv-six spe- be abundant. It should not bloom



RH



502



RHO



until the middle of May, if hardy, for pots requires much care ; the best and
those flowering before the frosts have easiest way is to plunge the pots to the
ceased, have the hioorns spoiled." — rim in coal ashes, and siill have frames
Gai'd. and Prac. Flor. over them for the purpose of preserving

Propagaiion. — By Seed. — The same 1 them trom excessive wet, heat, and
good tloricultural authority gives these cold. When they have perfected a
excellent directions: — " The seed ves- second growth, and are resting, shil\
sels must be gathered as soon as ripe, ' them into forty-eight sized pots, and

treat them as before, and so continue
shifting from size to size until they
flower." — Gard. and Prac. Flor. —
Gard. Chron.

Raising Varieties is best done in
April from forced plants, the two in-
tended to be bred from being brought
into bloom at the same time. They
should be widely different in colour,
or form, or habit, or some peculiarity
which may be desirable to combine in
one. Hybrids may be obtained by im-
' pregnating the Rhododendron with pol-
len from the Azalea.

Grafting. — Mr. Glenny gives these



and before they burst; let them lie in

a drawer in the stove or green-house,

or a sunny window, to burst and give

out their seed : sow immediately ; and,

to sow thin enough, mix it with twenty

times its quantity of the smallest sand.

Sow in pots with good drainage, and the

following compost. One lialf rich loam,

such as the top spit of an old meadow,

sifted through a coarse sieve ; the other

half the best peat or bog earth, such as

is formed of the half-decayed fibres

broken into pieces and rubbed through

the same sieve ; by knocking the bottom

of the pan or pot on the potting table or

bench, the compost will be solid enough directions : — " Young plants of the R.

without pressing ; level it and sow very Ponticum must be potted and well es-

thinly ; then with a fine sieve, sift a lit- tablished before you want to use them.

tie of the compost on the seeds very Cut them down within three inches of

evenly, and only just enough to cover ; the pot, and adopt the mode of saddle



tliem ; over this put a little tine sand,
not more than one sixteenth of an inch



grafting. See Grafting.

" Let the bark of the stock and scion



deep. Take a brush about the texture , touch, if possible, all over ; but as the
and strength of a clothes brush, dip it stock may be, and often is, the largest,
in water, turn its hairs upwards, point- i let the bark fit perfectly on one side,
ing at the seeds, draw your hand along ' and fall short on the other. The plants
the hairs towards you, and they will i should be placed after the operation in
throw off" an almost imperceptible show- a garden frame kept from the air for a
er of moisture, by means of which the j day or two, and shaded altogether from



whole surface can be fairly wetted with
out disturbing a seed or a grain of the \
compost. When the seedlings have i
four good leaves, prick out into other
pans of the same kind of compost, three j
inches apart, carefully raising them !
without disturbing the surface to hurt
the more backward seedlings, and the



the sun. Side-grafting and inarching
are better modes of increase for the
Rhododendron than saddle-grafting. In
order to insure success, August or Sep-
tember is the best time for budding or
grafting Rhododendrons in the open
air. This plant being thin-rinded does
best by side-grafting, and buds of it had



pan may be put back to its place, for j also better be inserted after the manner
the seeds will continue coming up for a of side-grafting, with a portion of the
considerable time. When pricked out, soft wood retained behind the bud." —
they should be watered, and afterwards Gard. Chron. — Gard. and Prac. Flor.
regularly. Though in the green-house [ Grafting may be done at almost any
keep them under hand-glasses for a few ' season of the year, and even the Chinese
days until re-established, after which ; Azalea may be inarched upon them. In

summer, if a low stock be employed, it
is sufficient to turn over it a hand-glass;
but if the grafting be in the spring or
autumn, to obtain success a little bot-
tom heat is necessary.

Other Modes of Propagation. — Lay-
ering and inarching may both be suc-
cessfully practised with the Rhododeu-



they may be removed to a cold frame,
or put out of doors. Shade from the
mid-day sun, weed regularly, and care- ;
fully tend until they have grown to
touch each other. They should then
be potted in sixties in the same kind of j
soil. They have now only to be keptj
from getting dry, which in such small ,



RHU



503



RHU



(Iron, but require no particular direc-
tions. Cuttings will also sometimes
succeed, and if a branch is desirably
removable let it be cut off. The cut-
tings should be only half ripe. Plant
in a large sized pot, two-thirds full of



the Tobolsk ; Gigantic ; Victoria, (best;)
and Bucks or Elford.

Soil and Situation. — The soil best
suited to these plants is light, rich,
deep, unshaded, and moderately moist.
\ poor heavy or shallow soil never pro-



the compost, cover with a glass, fitting duces them in perfection

within the rim of the pot: place in a Sou'ing. — It may be propagated by

frame, with a trifling bottom-heat, or in cuttings, but the mode almost univer-

a common propagating house; or, for sally practised is by seed. Sow soon

want of a better accommodation, in a after it is ripe, in September or October,

greenhouse or cold garden frame. The for if kept out of the ground until the

glass must be wiped clean every morn- spring, it often continues dormant for

ing, and the sand kept moist. Neglect twelve months : if the danger of this,

of watering is fatal. When the cuttings however, is risked, sow early in Feb-

are struck they must be treated as seed- ruary or March, in drills three feet



lings. — Gard. and Prac. Flor.



apart, and an inch deep, tlie plants to



Soil for Out-door Kinds. — A light remain where raised ; for although they