&c., if well managed, will bloom beau- rapid evaporation, so often preventing
tifully in the spring and summer fol- i success. But budding may be in spring,
lowing. I if the buds are extracted with a small

Mr. Jos. Baumann recommends the | portion of wood adhering to them. For
seeds of the dog rose to be sown in this purpose, scions are cut before win-
February, the seedlings, cut back to ' ter, and stuck into the ground till the
two eyes, potted in forty-eights next moment when in spring the bark of the
autumn ; plunged in a border until early ' stock will run. To prepare the bud,
in July ; to be budded at the end of we make firstly, a transverse cut into
August; headed down in November; the wood a little below an eye, which
potted in thirty-twos; protected in a incision is met by a longer cut down-
frame during winter ; started by dung wards, commencing at a short distance
heat in January, and the shoots when above the eye, care being taken that a
three inches long pinched back to one portion of wood is removed with the



inch, this being repeated two or three
times to form a good head. In autumn,
prune and shift to larger pots, to re-
main for some years. These stocks
produce very enduring and bright flow-
ers. Rosa Banksia, herberifolia, brac-
teata, and multiflora, do boston Quatre
Saisons stocks.



bark. This bud is inserted into the
bark of the stock, which is cut like
an inverted y, the horizontal edges of
this cut in the stock, and of the bud,
must be brought into the most perfect
contact with each other, and then bound
with waterproof bast, without, however,
applying grafting clay. Eight days after



In budding on the Boursault, and in- the insertion of the bud, the stock is
deed on any other rose, an excellent pruned down to the branch, which is
mode is, in April, to tongue a strong immediately above the opposite side,
shoot, pass it through a forty-eight pot, and this branch is stopped by being cut
until the tongue is in the centre, and down to two or three eyes; all the side
then press the pot full of a mixture of wood is destroyed, and when the bud
rotten dung and sand. It may be bud- I has pushed its fifth leaf, compel it to
ded at the time, but whenever done, branch by pinching its extremity ; it will
the shoot should be headed down at the ! then flower in September of the same
time of budding to within two eyes of year. You may also bud the rose in



the bud. — Gard. Chron.



the spring without waiting till tlie bark



Mr. Glenny recommends the stocks ! separates, by placing the bud with some
to be planted in a rich stiflish ground, wood on it, in a niche made in the
two feet apart in the row, and three stock, similar to what would be formed
feet between the rows, with a stake ' by taking an eye for budding from it in
every ten feet, and rods of sufficient the manner above described, and into
strength, reaching from one to another, [ which it is fitted exactly with a slight
to secure them against the effects of the pressure. It is recommended to make
wind. Plant no deeper than just to the cut for the niche where there is al-
cover the crown of the roots. When [ ready a bud on the stock ; when placed,
growing commences rub off, twice a the bud is then bound with bast and
week, all the buds that are not wanted, \ covered with mastic. — Gard, Mag.
but let the highest remain, for a stock Grafting. — " The exact time," says
six feet high often produces no shoots the best treatise on the 'Tree Rose,'
higher than half its height. In the first " for removing the scions from the pa-
week of July, the thorns should be re- rent tree, must depend upon the season ;
moved from those places on the stocks some time during the first three weeks
intended for budding roses. If they be J in February is the usual period. There
not taken away, the operation is ren- does not exist an actual necessity for
dered needlessly troublesome; and it | cutting the scions until they arc required
is best done now as time is thus allowed for use ; but then it will be more diffi-
for the bark's healing. The best time j cult to select the numbers recjuired in
for budding the rose is towards the end a state fit for use, and there is a greater
of July, a dormant eye being employed, ' chance of their going off, if the weather
just after a fall of rain, and when no remain cold, or the sap be not imme-
strong dry wind is moving. An atten- ] diately supplied. Scions cut when the



ROS



516



ROS



sap is quite down, carry better and are will have a tendency to do, when the
in every way more hardy. Let the rise of the sap swells the stock, thereby
shoot remain for three weeks in an out- diminishing the juxtaposition of their
liouse, or any other place, neither very , respective libers, and the whole be-
dry nor very damp, where neither wind I neath the lowest bud covered with
nor sun can come in contact with them; ' grafting clay, totally excluding air, sun,
the clay being damped with a sparing and rain. If the clay crack, it must be
hand, if the generality of the scions j renewed, not by shifting, but by filling
appear to shrink. During the first week up the crack. In about six months the
in March the head of the stock (in which clay may be removed, and the wound



covered with grafting wax; this latter
ust be omitted." —



the sap should be beginning to rise)
to be cut off horizontally, a slit made | on no account
in it straight downwards of a couple of Gard. Chron.
inches, or an inch and a half long, with- ! te j^ Flanders, cleft-grafting is adopt-
out injuring the sides of the bark. The gj^ ^nd care taken that the scion is of
scion is to be taken in the left hand, jj^g game diameter as the stock, or the
three buds, or two if the stock be not ^igf^ ;„ the stock made sufficiently near
large, being left upon it; the lower ex- \ o„g gjjg of t^g cross section, that tiie
tremity must then be cut in the shape jj^rk of the scion may fit the stock on
of a wedge, the back being rather the j^otj, sides. This mode is adopted in
thinnest, and the lowest bud about half grafting one sort of garden-rose upon
an inch above the thick end of the another. In grafting upon tiie dog-
wedge. In doing which, care must be ^ose the same practice is followed, with
taken that the bark be undisturbed, and jj^jg addition, that a shoulder is very
each scion so placed that when entered of^gn made to the scion, so as that it
in the stock, all the buds may poirit jj^^y rest with greater firmness upon
outward, or at any rate be in such posi- jj^g stock ; such stocks being often em-
tion, that the shoots from them may not ployed as standards, and therefore more
interfere with each other. The end of gxposed to wind.



a budding knife or a little wooden or
ivory wedge may be used to open the
slit in the stock on one side, and the
scion, with the thickest part or front
outwards, must be placed in the other,
care being taken that the edge of the
inner bark or liber of the scion touches
the edges of the inner bark of the stock
all the way down ; the wedge may then
be removed and another scion entered
in its place, the si
the first : if the siz

half the size of the stock, a shoulder
may be left to the former, and the
chances of success thereby increased.
Any number of scions may be inserted
in the same stock, but from one to four
at most are all that are desirable in the



" Mr. Calvert, of Rouen, observes

that it is the general practice to form

the wedge in a part of the scion where

there are no buds, but that he adopts a

contrary practice, and finds that a bud,

on the wedge part of the scion, greatly

contributes to the success of the graft.

By taking care to have a bud on the

lower part of the scion, Mr. Calvert has

, even been successful in grafting roses

It being kept open by , ^j^^ ^j^- or splice method, which,

•e of the scion be only ,^<thout a bud on the lower part of the

scion, very often fails; but, with a bud,

fails very seldom." — Gard. Mag.

Cuttings are made to succeed by the
following treatment : —

" Take a cutting of a this-year's



present case to cover completely the [ shoot, removing all but one leaf, and
head of the stock, which is apt to re- j cutting off the upper part of the shoot
ceive much injury from the weather, if above the leaf, and reducing its entire
not carefully attended to. The object length to six inches. The cutting
of laying by the scions, is that the stock ' should be planted on the north side of
may be forwardest, and be enabled to a wall, under glass in a small frame, on
supply the sap and force them forward a newly prepared hot-bed, and in a soil
at once, instead of lingering while they of leaf'-mould, eight inches deep, well
perish from exposure and w ant of nou- soaked with water, and covered over
rishment. When the shoots are on, the with sand. Water is to be given, and
whole must be tied up with a bast liga- air abundantly, for the first four days,
ture to prevent the scions from shifting, ; lessening its admission daily, until root-
which from their wedge-like shape they ing is completed, which will be in about



ROS



517



ROS



three weeks. In the fourth week the should cut both of these into within two
cutting m;iy be potted." — Gnrd. Chron. : eyes of the short branch they started

By Suckers. — Roses send up many j from ; and this would make each of
suckers annually, which may be taken [those branches start out two more ; and
up in autumn, winter, or early spring, ! unless to get the tree, or the dwarf
With some rootlets attached; and the ' bush, into any particular t'orni, we
strongest mav be planted out finally, ' should never omit cutting down shoots,
and the weakest in the nursery for a | and often cut out old lumps of wood
year or two or longer. They will ! and branches to thin the tree, which
readily grow, and will, most of them, I must never get crowded. By the same
produce liowers the following summer, rule we should always cut away all the

When rose-trees have grown into j spindly shoots. China roses, and all
large bunches, with many suckers, the i constant bloomers, which require con-
whole may be taken up and slipped, or ' tinued attention, should have only the
divided into separate plants. The moss, 1 old wood and the weak shoots cut away,
and some others, furnish suckers but ! because any violent prunin;: would



sparingly.
By Layers.-



throw the plant out of flower for a con-
-To obtain shoots for ' siderable time ; while carefully remov-



layering, a quantity of rose-trees should ' ing the seed-vessels, and taking away
be planted for stools, which, being ! weak wood to make room for the
headed down low, will throw out shoots ' stronger, will keep them constantly
abundantly near the ground, in summer, I flowering. This is especially requisite
for layering in autumn or winter follow- j with climbing roses, where the favour-
ing. They will be rooted by next able aspect, and other circumstances,
autumn, and fit for transplantation in may set the seed of almost every bloom.
nursery rows ; though sometimes the The swelling of their seed-vessels will
moss-rose and some others require two [ take all the nourishment from the shoots
years before they are tolerably well that would otherwise continue to grow
rooted. But of these sorts you may ' and bear flowers ; and the seed will
also try layers of the shoots of the year, [ often complete its growth and ripen
layered in summer, any time in June. } before there is anything like a general
They will probably root a little the bloom again." — Gard. and Prnr. Flor.
same season. The layers of all the I " A very good time for performing
sorts, after being properly rooted, j the operation is imjnediately after the
should be taken up in autumn and ] bloom is over ; cuttingout old exhausted
planted in the nursery, to have one or wood, shortening shoots which have



two years' growth. — Abercromhie.



flowered to a good bud accompanied



Soil. — All the cultivated roses, and ; with a healthy leaf, but leaving such
especially the double-flowering kinds, j shoots as are still in a growing state
require a rich loamy soil inclining to untouched till October,
clay rather than sand ; and they require j " Where very large roses are wanted,
also, like most double flowers, plenty all the buds but that on the extreme
of moisture when in a growing stite. \ point of each shoot should be pinched

Manures. — The best is a mixture of i off" as soon as they make their appear-
one part guano, three parts charred i ance, and the plant liberally supplied
turf and earth, and six parts cow-dung, with water.
A thin dressing pointed in every spring. ] "To lessen evaporation, and keep

Pruning. — Mr. Glenny gives these up a constant moisture at the root of
very good and full directions: — 'their roses, the Paris gardeners gene-

" Suppose we have a standard, with rally mulch them with half-rotten stnl)!e
only one branch from the bud, which is ' dung or partially rotten leaves." — Enc.
always stronger and better than if there Gard.

are two or three — the first season we ; The Banksian Rose must be pruned
should cut that to within two eyes of at no other time, but immediately after
the ground, if a rose on its own root, or ' it has done blooming in June, or early
within two eyes of the stock, if it be a in July.

budded one. These two eyes would, Planting. — "On removing trees,"'
the very first year, send out two bloom- ! says the author of the Tree Rose, " the
ing branches, which would grow a con- j fresh shoots they have made, and the
siderable length. The next season we | appearance of those which were left,



ROS



518



ROS



will require attention in the applica-
tion of the knife. In pruning a large
root it should be cut to a lateral; in
shortening a small one, to a fibre.
Where a plant has been examined and
trimmed recently, however, the knife
should be sparingly used.

" And it may here be well to observe,
that all cuts to remove branches, knots,
or roots, should be quite clean, slant-
ing (and deep enough to the stem, viz.
even with it), and nothing left projecting
Jest dead wood he the consequence,
and the plant be eventually injured.
All wounds should be carefully healed ,
and dead wood should, in all cases, be
removed, and living bark encircle that
which remains."

The best time for planting is No-
vember.

Forcing. — For the following very
successful mode of forcing roses, we
are indebted to R. A. Salisbury, Esq : —

" Take off strong suckers about the
end of October or beginning of No-
vember, with all the fibres they may
have formed, which can only be well
done by digging up the parent stock.
Plant these suckers in pots only about
four inches diameter at the top, wind-
ing the sucker three, four, or five times
round the inside of the pot ; and prune
it, so as to leave no more than two
buds, or three at most, above ground.
Fill the pots with hazel loam, mixed
with one-third equal parts charred turf
and vegetable mould, pressing it firmly
down to keep the sucker from starting,
and plunge them to the brim close to
one another quincunx fashion, in an
open bed fully exposed to the sun and
air.

" The small size of these pots makes
stronger blossoms, even the first if the
suckers are large ; and as they are to
be shifted annually, it is absolutely
necessary to begin with small pots.
To have a plentiful supply of blos-
soms during tlie months of December,
January, February, March, April and
May, from one hundred to three hun-
dred suckers must be thus prepared.

" For the plants to be forced, from
December to INIarch, a small frame
should be devoted, about twelve feet
long, five feet wide, seven feet wide
behind, and only six or eight inches in
front. This pitch admits the rays of
light, at that period, to strike upon the
plants to the greatest advantage, a flue.



or tank, or pipes, if hot water be used,
running from one end to the other. If
the floor be built thick, and the fire-
Fig. 149.




place, as well as the chimney-top, be
well closed up after the heat has pene-
trated the flue, the air within will be
sufficiently heated with very little fuel,
and require no attendance at night, ex-
cept in very severe frost. The back of
this frame may consist of wood, or a
narrow brick, at pleasure, and should
have a door in the middle, just sutfi-
cieiitly large to admit the gardener to
creep in and water the plants, by
reaching over them from one side to
the other without any walk inside.

" A strong latticed floor must be fixed
six inches above the flue, on which the
pots must be placed when introduced ;
and these must have a pan or receiver
under each, to prevent the heat of the
flue, which will now and then be smart
notwithstanding every precaution, from
striking directly on the pots them-
selves. After the month of March,
roses may be advantageously forced in
other houses and situations, but hardly
sooner, except on the front flue of a
pine-stove : and a small frame like this
is not only built and maintained at a
small cost ; but the lights may be used
for other crops, especially melons, after
June.

" The plants to be forced into blos-
som by Christmai-day should be placed
in this frame on the first day of October,
lighting fires gradually, so as to keep
the temperature, in the daytime, rather
increasing than decreasing — from 60*'^
of Fahrenheit to SO'-' j but at night 30^



RO S



519



RO S



is not too low. If the plants meet with
one frosty night or two in the beginning
of October, so much the better ; for
they will push more vigorously after
the heat is applied. The first year
none of the crops will come in so early
as afterwards; and I advise all the
young suckers to be forced in succes-
sion the first year, not waiting till ihey
have had one year's growth in the open
air. Moreover, if the suckers are
strong, they will produce more blos-
soms than might be expected. The
second crop of plants introduced on the
first of November will blossom from the
middle of January to mid-February ; the
third crop, introduced December 1st,
from mid-February to the middle of
March ; those of the fourth crop, intro-
duced on the first of January, from the
middle of March to the middle of April ;
those of the fifth crop, introduced on
the first of February, from the middle
of April to the middle of May ; those of
the sixth and last crop, introduced on
the first of March, from the middle of
May till the middle of June, when
several varieties in the open ground be-
gin to blossom.

'•' As soon as the plants begin to push
their buds, whether any apliides ap-
pear upon the young shoots or not, fill
the frame with tobacco-smoke ; and do
not fail to repeat this every third week
till the flowers appear; smoking, for
the last time, just before any red tints
appear on the earliest buds. No un-
pleasant smell of the tobacco will re-
main upon the plants after a day or
two. The young shoots must also be
carefully examined when half an inch
long, and any grubs feeding upon them
destroyed.

" After the blossoms are gathered
the plants must not be removed to a
back shed, but kept in the frame, or
brought back into it, if they have been
taken into the apartments of the owner,
permitting them to grow as they do in
summer, in the open air, for at least
two or three months. They must then
be placed in a shady situation, and kept
rather dry than moist, to throw them
into a state of rest.

" After the mouth of May, Mr. Salis-
bury prefers inverting them, especially
the earlier crops, between two planks
raised upon tressels, high enough to
prevent tiie branches from touching the
earth, as in the amiexed sketch, having



for twenty-five years experienced the
utility of this treatment, and suspecting
that it strengthens the future blossoms
by retaining sap in the branches, which
would otherwise descend to the root or
form suckers.

Fig. 150.




" While the plants are growing they
must be constantly supplied with moist-
ure — water and guano, or pigeons'
dung infused in it a few days before, in
the proportion of one ounce of the
former, and of the latter one ounce to
a gallon of water. Where pigeons'
dung cannot be had, two ounces of
sheep or deer's dung may be substi-
tuted to each gallon of water.

" It now only remains to add, that it
is most important in forcing roses to
mark all the plants, so that those intro-
duced into tlie frame in October, the
first year, may be introduced on the
same day, the second and every suc-
ceeding year. To secure this, paint
No. 1, 2, 3, &c., upon the pots them-
selves. No. 1 to go in first, and so on.

" Every year, about a fortnight be-
fore the plants are forced, they must be
shifted into larger pots, exactly one
inch wider in diameter, and not more,
turning them out without breaking the
ball or disturbing any of the fibres, and
filling the pots with the same compost
of hazel loam, charred turf, and vege-
table earth. By this method the same
plants may be forced for ten years,
without the inconvenience of using a
very large pot, as the last season they
will not want to be removed, or may
be shifted into the same pot again.

"With respect to pruning, I have
never been in the habit of leaving more
than two buds on each branch, and, as
the plants increase in size and number
of branches, often only one bud upon
the weaker branches. It is much bet-
ter to have from ten to twenty strong
blossoms than a larger number of weak
ones, and the foliaL'o is likewise more
healthy." — Gard. Mag.

Pot-Culture has been more fully dis-



ROS



520



ROS



cussed by Messrs. Paul and Son, the three times during winter, and a little
florists of Cheshunt, than by any other : newly slaked lime scattered throughout
authority ; and from their observations j to destroy worms and grubs. This ia



I have made these extracts : —

" Transplanting and Potting. — Early
in autumn, immediately after rain, re-
move both worked plants and others
from the ground. Such as have grown
moderately, Avith well ripened wood,



the soil used for the moss, but for the
delicate varieties, (Chinese, &c.,) it may
be improved by the addition of one part
leaf-mould or well pulverized manure."
Protection. — After potting, the plants
taken from the ground, should be re-



should be chosen. The pots best suit- ' moved to a cold pit, syringing and shad-
ed are numbers thirty-two, twenty-four, ing if sunny weather, for a week or ten
sixteen and twelve, according to the days. It will be well if the tender va-
size of the plant, and they should be rieties can be allowed to remain in the
well drained. The soil should be i pit during winter, at which season they
pressed firmly in the pots, watering i require scarcely any water, otherwise
freely afterwards, through a fine rose, I they should be removed to the north
to settle the soil. side of a wall or fence, and a thatch of

" The cultivation of the autumnals, ' fern or beech boughs, with the leaves



on their own roots, may be commenced
at any season, as they are usually kept
growing in pots. If purchased in spring,
in sixties, they may be immediately shift-
ed into forty-eights, then plunged, and
watered continually as required. Our
aim being to get the plants strong, they
should not be suffered to flower, but



on, formed. The hardy ones may be
removed from the pits about a month
after being potted, and plunged at once
in the open ground where intended to
be grown and flowered.

Pruning. — About the middle of No-
vember pruning may be performed, in
order to effect an early bloom. The



endeavour, through the growing season, j plants having been thinned out previ-
to bring them to form only a few vi- ously, all that is now required, is the
gorous shoots. To accomplish this it is shortening in of the remaining shoots,
advisable to rub out some of the buds i Among the hybrid Chinese, the two
when first pushing, but keeping in view j favourite old roses, Brcnnus and Ful-
the handsome formation of the plant. \ gens, both vigorous growers, frequently
"The plantsmay be shifted on through occasion great disappointment by not
the season ; and in the following spring blooming. The failure will probably



â– we shall probably find them in sixteen
or twelve-sized pots, preparing for a
vigorous growth and bloom.

^'Thinning out. — When potting, all
suckers should be cut from the worked
plants, and straggling shoots shortened



be found to arise from the method of
pruning.

These roses, and others of like habit,