Gynandria, 1 -tnonandrict] . Hardy orchid ;
offsets ; sandy peat.

A. hiema'le (wintry). 1. Brown. North
America. 1827.

APO'CYNUM. (From apo, from, and
Jcyon, a dog, poisonous to dogs. Nat.
ord., Dogbanes [Apocynaceoe]. Linn. 5-
Pentandria,) \-inonogynid). Hardy her-
baceous perennials. Suckers, division,
and seeds ; common garden soil.

A. androsamiftflium (tutsan-leaved). 2. Strip-
ed. August. North America. 1688.

canna'binum (hemp-like). 3. Yellow. Au-

gust. North America. 1699.

hypericifo'lhim (hypericum-leaved). 2.

White. June. North America. 1758.

vend turn (Venetian). 2. White. June.

Adriatic Islands. 1690.

APONOGE'TON. (From apon, Celtic for
water, and geiton, neighbour, indicating
its places of growth. Nat. ord., Arrow-
grasses [Juncaginaceae]. Linn. 6-Hexan-
dria, %-trigynia}. Aquatics, kept in a
vessel of water in stove or greenhouse,
according to their native localities, but
all thriving in the stove ; offsets, loam,
and peat.
A. angustifo'lium (narrow-leaved). 1. White.

July. Cape of Good Hope. 1788.

Greenhouse.

cri' spurn (curled-leaved). 1. White. Au-

gust. Ceylon. 1820. Stove.

dista'chjon (two-spiked). 1. White. June.

Cape of Good Hope. 1788. Green-
house.

jitncifo'lium (rush-leaved). White. 1847.
Stove.

monosta! 'chyon (simple-spiked). 1. Pink.

September. East Indies. 1803. Stove.

APPLE. (Pyrus mains.}

Varieties. There are 1,496 named
varieties in the last edition of the Lon-
don Horticultural Society's List of Fruits,
of which they have 897 cultivated in
their gardens. The following arc good
selections :

Espalier and divarf. Dessert kinds.
Lamb-abbey pcarmain ; Hick's fancy;
Kerry pippin ; Stunner pippin ; Pdbston
pippin ; Pitmaston nonpareil ; Old non-
pareil ; Braddick's nonpareil ; Scarlet
nonpareil ; Pearson's plate ; Court-pendu-
plat ; Court of Wick ; Golden drop ;
King of pippins ; Margille ; Golden rein-
ette ; Reinette du Canada ; Adam's pear-
main ; Boston russet ; Baddom, or
spring Ribston pippin ; Early harvest ;
Early Margaret ; Golden Harvey.

Standard. Dessert. Hick's fancy ;



APP



[59]



APP



Kerry pippin ; Pitmanton nonpareil ;
Court of Wick ; King of pippins ; Golden
reinette ; Adam's pearmain ; Boston rus-
set ; Early harvest ; Early Margaret ;
Stunner pippin ; Pubston pippin.

Espaliers and dwarfs. Kitchen. Haw-
thornden ; Alfriston ; Pitmaston nonpa-
reil ; Manks codling ; Wareham russet ;
Blenheim orange ; Chappell ; Keswick
codling ; Waltham- abbey seedling.

Standard. Kitclien. Northern green-
ing, or John ; Manks codling ; Chappell ;
Wareham russet ; Blenheim orange ;
Normanton, or Dumelow's seedling ;
Keswick codling ; Hawthornden ; Bed-
fordshire foundling ; Reinette du Cana-
da ; Emperor Alexander ; Dutch cod-
ling ; Wormsley pippin ; Waltham-abbey
seedling; Alfriston.

For walls. Bibston pippin ; Old non-
pareil ; Newtown pippin ; Stunner pip-
pin.

Propagation by seed. Sow in autumn
the largest and most convex seeds, of a
favoured variety, in pots or border of light
rich loam ; bury the seed an inch deep ;
if in a border, six inches apart each way.
Mr. London says, " The end of the first
year they .should be transplanted into
nursery rows, from six inches to a foot
apart every way. Afterwards they
should be removed to where they are to
produce fruit ; and for this purpose the
greater the distance between the plants
the better. It should not be less than
six or eight feet every way. The quick-
est way to bring them into a bearing state,
Mr. Williams of Pitmaston considers,
is to let the plants be furnished with
lateral shoots, from the ground upwards,
so disposed as that the leaves of the up-
per shoots may not shade those situated
underneath, pruning away only trfling
shoots. He adopted this mode, and suc-
ceeded in procuring fruit from seedling
apples at four, five, and six years of age,
instead of waiting eight, ten, and even
fifteen years, which must be the case by
the usual mode of planting close and
pruning to naked stems."

The advice of Mr. Williams is very
good ; but we must remind our readers
that most of our shy, flowering, arbo-
rescent or shrubby plants or trees are
the soonest brought to blossom by first
encouraging a high amount of luxuriance,



and then inducing a severe check by
root-pruning. By such means, carefully
carried out, there can be no doubt that
seedling apples may be made to blossom
in four years. The check may either
consist in a severe root-pruning, or the
plants may be transplanted ; taking care
to prune away all taper forked roots, and
using all possible means to encourage
surface fibres.

We may here add, that the less prun-
ing of the shoots the better ; the knife is
a great enemy to early fruitfulness in
young trees, especially codlings.

Most good cultivators and we believe
we may include the highly scientific
authority of the late Mr. Knight of
Downton prefer grafting the shoots of
seedling apples when two years old, on
very old, healthy, and fine-bearing kinds.
In doing so, the extremities of the best
branches should be chosen, as also the
lightest portion of the tree, which should
stand in a sheltered and warm situation.

Mr. Knight states, that " The width
and thickness of the leaf generally indi-
cates the size of the future apple, but
will by no means convey any correct
idea of the merits of the future fruit.
When these have the character of high
cultivation, the qualities of the fruit will
be far removed from those of the native
species ; but the apple may be insipid or
highly flavoured, green or deeply co-
loured, and of course well or ill calcu-
lated to answer the purposes of the
planter. An early blossom in the spring,
and an early change of colour in the au-
tumnal leaf, would naturally be supposed
to indicate a fruit of early maturity ;
but I have never been able to discover
any criterion of this kind on which the
smallest dependance may be placed. The
leaves of some varieties will become yel-
low and fall ofl", leaving the fruit green
and immature ; and the leaves in other
kinds will retain their verdure long after
the fruit has perished. The plants whose
buds in the annual wood are full and
prominent are usually more productive
than those whose buds are small and
shrunk in the bark ; but their future
produce will depend much on the power
the blossoms possess of bearing the cold,
and this power varies in the varieties,
and can only be known from experience.



Arp



[60]



APP



Those which produce their leaves and
blossoms rather early in the spring are
generally to be preferred; for though
they are more exposed to injury from
frost, they less frequently suffer from
the attacks of insects the more common
cause of failure. The disposition to ve-
getate early or late in the spring is, like
almost every other quality in the apple-
tree, transferred in different degrees to
its offspring ; and the planter must there-
fore seek those qualities in the parent-
tree which he wishes to find in the future
seedling plants. The best method I have
been able to discover of obtaining such
fruits as vegetate very early in the spring
has been by introducing the farina of
the Siberian crab into the blossom of a
rich and early apple, and by transferring,
in the same manner, the farina of the
apple to the blossom of the Siberian crab.
The leaf and the habit of many of the
plants that I have thus obtained possess
much of the character of the apple,
whilst they vegetate as early in the
spring as the crab of Siberia, and possess
at least an equal power of bearing cold ;
and I possess two plants of the family
which are quite as hardy as the most
austere crab of our woods."

By grafting. Stocks of the crab and
apple are raised from kernels, but the
Codling and Paradise stocks must be
raised by cuttings and layers; sow in
autumn in beds of light earth, moderately
thick, in drills, covering them full half
an inch deep ; they will come up in the
spring, when, if the season proves dry,
water them occasionally which will great-
ly forward the seedlings, and strengthen
their growth ; and in autumn, winter, or
spring following, they may be planted
out in nursery rows, previously shorten-
ing their tap roots, and planting them in
lines two feet and a half asunder, and
one foot in the rows ; and after having
from one to two or three years' growth
here, they will be fit for grafting, parti-
cularly if for dwarfs, or even for full and
half standards, if it is intended to form
the stem from the graft, which is an
eligible method for these trees ; but if
the stock is to form the stem, they will
require three or four years' growth to
rise to a proper height ; seven feet for
full, and four or five for half standards.



When these trees are intended for full-
sized orchard standards, with strong
stems, the too common practice of prun-
ing close all side branches as they spring
from the stem, cannot be too strongly
deprecated. A regular series of these
should be left up the stem, at least for
one year after their production, practising
what is termed " spurring-in" by our
nurserymen, at the first winter's prun-
ing after their production. Indeed, in
the second year, if any stout stems are
required, we would only totally remove
one-half ; and instead of performing this
operation in the winter, we would leave
it until near midsummer; for recent
wounds heal, and skin over much nicer
at that period than during the season of
rest.

Before quitting the subject of grafting,
it may be well to offer a few plain direc-
tions on that head. Presuming that
stocks duly cultivated and prepared exist,
the first thing is, to provide scions ; that
is, a part of the kind intended to be
grafted on the stocks. It is, and has
been a maxim, for perhaps centuries, to
procure these long before what is termed
the "rising of the sap ;" that is to say,
during the resting season.

Such, then, being procured during the
end of January, or through February, they
are u heeled ;" that is, after being correctly
labelled, and tied in bundles, they are
placed in the earth, in a cool and damp
situation, where neither sun nor wind
can penetrate. Here they lie until wanted.
There appears to have been originally
more than one reason for this procedure.
A pressure of spring business, even in
former days, would suggest this practice,
and it would soon be discovered that
these retarded scions possessed real ad-
vantages ; the principle of which appears
to be, the certainty of nourishment the
moment that they are placed in the
parent plant ; or, at least, as soon as
their absorbing powers are fully in action,
which will be the case in a day or two.
The parent stock is thus much in advance
of them ; and a root action has already
commenced, which is capable of supplying
their utmost need.

The period of grafting is determined
by the rising of the sap ; and this is in-
dicated in deciduous trees, by the enlarge-



APP



[61]



APP



ment of the buds, which generally takes
place in the early part of March, in Bri-
tain. "We consider that the buds of the
stock should be near bursting their skin,
or hybernatory, before grafting should
take place.

This, of course, will differ, in different
fruits, as differs their degrees of preco-
city. For details of the process, see
GRAFTING.

By cuttings. All the varieties may be
raised in this mode, though some, as the
Burr-knot, Codling, and June-eating,
more readily than others. Trees so
raised are said to be not so liable as
their parents to canker. In February
take cuttings of the young shoots from
some of the horizontal branches, about
eight inches long, cutting off a portion
of the old wood of the branch attached
to the shoot ; remove all the buds except
the upper three. Plant these firmly in
sandy loam, giving water and covering
with a hand-glass until the cuttings
have well vegetated. Shade from the
mid-day sun ; remove the hand-glass in
July, and get the plants into the nursery
early in November.

Soil. The apple prefers a deep and
strong or adhesive loam. The colour is
not so very material providing such rest
on a sound subsoil, free from water
lodgments. If it is not so naturally,
draining must be had recourse to, or it
will be vain to expect success. They
are nevertheless cultivated with consi-
derable success, on any ordinary garden
soil ; and even on soils of a peaty cha-
racter, we have known them succeed
tolerably well; but, in the latter case,
the peat must be previously solidified by
drainage, culture, &c., for a few years,
for we have never known them succeed
on raw elastic peats. Improved peats,
indeed, will in due time approach the
character of common dark garden soils,
and it becomes expedient for the apple,
to introduce both marl or clay, and also
sand. Whenever a suspicion exists of
an ungenial subsoil, the best plan is to
plant on stations ; which indeed is the
best plan to adopt in all kitchen gardens,
where the object is to get great variety in
small compass, or to induce early bear-
ing. See article STATIONS.

Planting. The soil should be trenched,



and immediately beneath each tree, ac-
cording to the extent of its roots, chalk,
stones, or brickbats rammed so as to
form a kind of pavement to direct the
roots horizontally. Plant so that the
roots nearest the surface are twelve
inches below it. See STATIONS.

Espaliers. When first planted the
young plant is cut down to within about
a foot of the ground, and only three
shoots permitted to spring from it, one
of which will be the leader, and the
others will form the first or lower tier of
bearing branches, which are to be se-
cured to small stakes, so as to keep them
in their proper places.

The following season the upright
leader must be shortened to nine inches
or a foot above the two horizontal
branches, and deprived of all its shoots
excepting the three uppermost, which
are to be treated the same as before. In
this way the leading shoot is to be stop-
ped at the requisite distance above the
horizontal ones, until it has reached the
height of five feet. It is then cut off,
and no more allowed to grow upright,
the whole strength of the tree being di-
rected to the fruiting branches.

Espalier apple trees should be planted
at not less than twenty feet distance ; but
five and thirty feet is better, especially
for trees grafted on crab or apple stocks,
which are free growers ; for trees grafted
on codlin or paradise stocks eighteen or
twenty feet may be a sufficient distance.
They should be planted with their heads
entire, only removing any very irregular
growths that do not range consistent
with the intended form, and pruning
any broken roots ; as also the points of
immature wood. Let all the branches
be trained horizontally to the right and
left, an equal number on each side, all at
full length, five or six inches asunder,
and, according as they shoot in summer,
still continue them along entire. At the
same time train in a further supply 01
new shoots, to increase the number of
horizontals or bearers, and thus continue
increasing their numbers every year, till
the espalier is regularly filled from the
bottom to top, preserving all the branches
at full length, as far as the allotted space
will admit.

They must have a summer and a win-



APP



[62]



APP



ter pruning annually; in the summer
cut out all the superfluous and ill-placed
shoots of the year, and train regular
ones towards the lower parts in vacant
spaces, at least to remain till winter,
some of which may be then wanted to
fill some unforeseen vacancy, clearing
out all others at this time as close as
possible. And in winter, if any worn
out or decayed parts appear, then is the
time to retrench them, retaining young
branches in their places, and if any va-
cancy occurs, retain some contiguous
young shoot to fill it. Cut clean and
close to the branches, still continuing all
the branches, and any occasional supply
of shoots, at full length, as far as their
limited bounds will allow ; then train
the whole regularly, tying them in as
straight and close to the railing as pos-
sible, about six inches asunder.

Standards, Half Standards, and Dwarfs.
The standards having been trained in
the nursery with tolerably good heads,
they should be planted with those heads
nearly entire ; merely pruning away
late growths, and occasionally shortening,
to produce new shoots when desirable.
If any are intended for the kitchen gar-
den, plant them at least forty feet dis-
tance ; and, for a full plantation, to form
an orchard, allow thirty feet distance
every way.

Trim any broken or tap-roots, but
leave all the others entire.

As soon as planted, let every one be
well staked, to support them firmly up-
right, and prevent their being disturbed
in rooting by winds.

Smaller growing standards, such as
codlins and dwarfs upon paradise stocks,
may, if required, be planted only at
twenty feet distance, or even less, though,
if there is room to allow a greater dis-
tance, it will be the greater advantage.

Let them also, in future, advance with
all their branches at full length, taking
their own natural growth, and they will
soon form numerous natural spurs in
every part for bearing.

"With respect to pruning these stand-
ards very little is required, probably not
more than once in three years, and then
only the retrenching any very irregular
cross-placed bough, or reducing to order
any very long rambler ; or when the head



is become greatly crowded and confused,
to thin out some of the most irregular
growth, likewise all strong shoots grow-
ing upright in the middle of the head,
and all dead wood and suckers from the
stem and root. Sec PRUNING, also STA-
TION.

Manuring old Apple Trees. We gen-
erally see fruitful old trees starving by
inches ; few think of manuring them. The
consequence is not only premature decay
in the tree, but a continual sacrifice in
produce ; and if there be a full crop, the
apples either crack, or become corroded
with a rusty fungus, under which circum-
stances they will lose in a great degree
their keeping properties. The best way
to deal with such cases is to strip away,
at the end of October, six inches of the
surface-soil, and to apply a coating of
the very slutch of the manure-yard,
three or four inches in thickness ; after
which the turf or some soil may be
strewed over, to prevent the loss of its
fertile properties. This, once in three
years, accompanied by a rather severe
thinning or pruning, will be found to
renew the constitution of the tree in a
very considerable degree ; the fruit also
will regain their size, their clear skin,
and, of course, their keeping properties.

Diseases, See CANKER, RUSSET, and
Moss.

Insects, So impressed was Mr. Knight
with the opinion that of all our fruits
none suffers more from insects than the
apple, that he declared his belief that
these are a more frequent cause of the
crops failing than frost. The figure-of-
eight moth (Episema cwruleoccphalti), Lin-
neus denominates the pest of Pomona,
and the destroyer of the blossoms of the
apple, pear, and cherry. He also men-
tions another (Tinea corticella] as inhabit-
ing apple-bearing trees under the bark.
And Reaumur has given -us the history
of a species common in this country, and
producing the same effect, often to the
destruction of the crop, the caterpillar of
which feeds in the centre of our apples,
thus occasioning them to fall. Even the
young grafts are frequently destroyed,
sometimes many hundreds in one night, in
the nurseries about London, by the Cur-
culio Vastator of Marsham (Otiorliynclius
picipes), one of the short-snouted weevils;



APE



[63]



APE



and the foundation of canker in full-
grown trees is often laid by the larvae of
Temaisa Wceberana. The sap, too, is
often injuriously drawn off by a minute
coccus, of which the female has the exact
shape of a muscle-shell (Coccus Arborum
linear is), and which Eeaumur has ac-
curately described and figured. But the
greatest enemy of this tree, and which
has been known in this country since the
year 1787, is the apple-aphis, called by
some the coccus, and by others the Ame-
rican blight. See AMERICAN BLIGHT,
BLIGHT, YPONOMENTA, ANTHONYMTJS,
COCCUS, PSYLLA, BoSTRICHUS, SCOLYTUS,
and ACARUS.

APRICOT. (Armeniaca vulgaris).

VARIETIES :

1. Early Masculine. End of July. The
best of the very early apricots. Fruit
rather small, round, and of a yellowish
colour, tinted with red on one side.

2. Large Early, or Precoce. Eipens next
in order. An oblong fruit, of a palish
orange colour, with a very agreeable
juice.

3. Blenheim, or Shipley's. One of the
most useful apricots in the kingdom ;
for, although inferior in flavour to the
Moorpark, it is a much greater bearer
and a sure ripener. An oval fruit,
middle-sized, and of a palish lemon
colour. This kind is allied to the
Moorpark ; possibly a seedling from it.

4. Hcmskirke. Another of the Moor-
park section ; somewhat earlier. This
also ripens safer than the Moorpark,
and such is a weighty consideration
with northern horticulturists. A
roundish fruit, somewhat flattened at
the crown ; colour, orange and red.

5. Breda. A well-known preserving
fruit, and most eligible for growing as
an ordinary standard, in our southern
counties ; or on any trellis device.
Called " Brussels" by some. A small
fruit, generally of a cramped or angled
appearance ; of an orange colour, and
rich flavoured.

6. Royal. A good fruit, of very rich
flavour, ripening just a little before
the Moorpark. Of a large size, oval,
and of an orange complexion.

7. Moorpark. The first apricot in the
kingdom, taken altogether. A full
sized roundish fruit, ripening about



middle season ; flavour first rate. No

garden of any pretensions is complete

without a Moorpark or two.

These are all that are truly essential
either to the amateur or the cottager.
For the amateur who, in a small garden,
has room for three only, and those dis-
tinct kinds, we recommend Nos. 3, 5, and
7. If four, then take Nos. 1, 3, 5, 7. If
five, then Nos. 1, 3, 5, 6, 7. For cot-
tagers, we say Nos. 3 and 7. Above all,
we would recommend the " Shipley's" to
the cottager, as being a hardier and a
larger tree, and a much surer bearer.
Besides the above there are the Black,
the Large Early, the Musch-Musch, very
sweet, of the Breda section ; the Orange,
fitter for preserving than dessert, a good
bearer ; the Eoman, another good bearer;
the Turkey, a useful late variety ; the
Haisha, a Syrian kind, delicious, and
possessing a sweet kernel.

Choice of Trees. Those who have to
select, whether from stock of their own,
or from the nursery, should first see
that the junction between the stock and
the scion is complete and thoroughly
healed. If any gum or other exudation
appear on any stem, by all means reject
the tree as to present use.

Two or three years trained trees are
the most eligible, and such should pos-
sess at least two branches on either side,
and a central one if possible. Care
should be taken to select those in which
the side branches are of about equal
thickness,

Propagation is best done by budding :
some choose the Apricot stock or those
from the kernels; others prefer the
Plum stock : the latter, however, has
been much complained of in late years.
Our nurserymen have what is termed a
" commoner" stock, which appears to be
a sort of wild Plum, and which in gene-
ral answers pretty well.

For dwarfs, bud at eight inches from
the soil ; for half standards, at three feet;
and, for standards, at about five feet.

Period of Planting. Those who wish
to gain time, may plant successfully in
the first or second week of October : any
time, however, from that period until the
early part of March will do.

Soil. A good sound and rather unctu-
ous loam is best, using a little ordinary



APR



[64]



APR



vegetable matter, but no manure, unless
on the surface (see MULCHING). Do not
make the soil deeper than eighteen
inches. See article STATIONS.

Aspect. A south aspect is best in the
northern parts of the kingdom, but the
east and west frequently produce supe-
rior fruit in the southern counties ; where
very warm aspects are apt to produce
mealy fruit in hot seasons. Standards
can only be grown in our southern dis-
tricts ; where they are sometimes very
prolific and high flavoured. As stand-
ards, they are several years in coming
into bearing.

Training. The branches should be on
an average from six to eight inches apart,