months named are those in which the
fruit is ripe. July, Doyenne d'ete.
August, Benoist. Sept., Williams' Bon
Chretien, Beurre d'Amanlis, Jalousie
de Fontenay Vender. Oct., Duchess
d'Orleans, Marie Louise, Fondante
d'Automne. Nov., Beurre Bosc, Thomp-
son's, Doyenne gris, Urbaniste. Dec.,
Hacon's Incomparable, Triomphe de
Jodoigne. Jan., Beurre Langelier,
Knight's Monarch. Feb., Incomme
Van Mons, Susette de Bavay, Duchesse
de Mars. March, Beurre Bretonneau.
April, Fortunee Parmentier, Berga-
mottee d'Esperen.
ORCHIDS are divisible into two classes,
the Epiphytes, or those growing upon
trees, and Terrestrial, or ground or-
chids, which grow upon the earth. The
two classes require some difference as
to the mode in which they are grown,
a difference pointed out in this work
under each genus in its alphabetical
order ; at present we shall confine our-
selves to such general directions as are
applicable to the general cultivation
of both classes of Orchids requiring
Stove treatment.
House for Orchids. As they re-
quire great light, the house ought to
be so placed as to catch all the rays of
light from the sun. A span-roofed one
will do so, or, to the greatest degree ;
and so low in the angle, that the plants,
whether in pots or baskets, or on logs
of wood, will all be near to the glass.
We find the best aspect is for the roof
to fall due east and west; then the
lengthway of the house will, of course,
be north and south. By this means
the heat and light of the sun are more
equalised. In the cold mornings of
early spring the sun will sooner give
light and heat on the east side, and
will be at noon in such a position that
his beams will be slanting to the angle
of the roof, whilst in the afternoon his
power to give light and heat will be
considerably prolonged. Every plant
in this house will thus have its due
share of light and heat. During the
hot months of May, June, July, and
August, the shade or blind can be let
down on the morning side of the house,
drawn up at noon, and let down on the
afternoon side just as the sun shines ;
thus giving the plants all the light
possible, and at the same time pro-
tecting them from the burning rays of
the sun. There need not be any up-
right glass at the sides or ends of the
house. The walls ought to rise high
enough to allow a comfortable walk and
head room. The rafters and lights
ought to be fixed, and to give air a few
openings may be easily contrived in the
highest part of the house, and a few
sliding panels near the floor in the
walls. This cold air ought to flow in
over the hot pipes, and to become
heated before it cornea in contact with
the plants. In summer, when there
is no heat in the pipes, the external air
is naturally so warm that no injury
will accrue to the plants by admitting
it into the house without being artifi-
cially heated. It is almost absolutely
necessary to have more than one house.
However small the collection may be,
there will be some that require more
heat than the others. The orchids of
South America will flourish far better
in a house of moderate temperature
than in a house highly heated. This
house we would distinguish by the
name of "the Mexican house." The
orchids, natives of Java, Borneo, Singa-
pore, the Phillipine Islands, and the
hot jungles of Hindostan, require, on
the other hand, a much higher tem-
perature and close moist atmosphere.
The house for these plants we would
designate "The East Indian house."
By having two houses a considerable
number of advantages will be secured.
The Indian tribes, as soon as they
have made their growth for the year,
where there are two houses, may be
one
{ 050
ORC
removed into the cooler or Mexican i
house,'nnd that removal or change of \
temperature will harden their psnedo- j
bulbs, and concentrate the sap, causing j
them thereby to become more healthy, j
robust, and free to flower. Should any
of the South American species require
a little more heat, they could be con-
veniently removed into the Indian
house to make their growth. The
cooler house will also be useful to
place any of the Indian species in when
in flower, which change will consider-
ably prolong their season of blooming.
The two houses may join each other,
divided by a partition either of brick or
glass. We should prefer glass, as being
neater and showing off the plants in
both houses to greater advantage.
Heating. As these plants require
during the seasons of growth a larger
amount of moisture than most other
plants, the plan to effect this is to heat
the houses with hot-water-pipes, laid
in tanks. The water in these tanks
should be deep enough to cover the
pipes about an inch with water. The
tanks need not be more than ten inches
wide, inside measure. The diameter
of the pipes should be three inches-and-
a-half. At some convenient place there
ought to be a tap to let off the water j
out of the tanks. This ought to be '
done frequently, in order to obtain a j
sweet moisture. If the water be allowed
to remain in the tanks for a length of
time it becomes foul, and then when
heated sends forth a disagreeable smell,
which is very unhealthy both to plants
and persons. In winter, when the
plants are, or ought to be, mostly at
rest, they require a drier atmosphere.
In order to induce this, the tanks
ought to be emptied during the winter
months from the middle of October to
the middle of February. Should the
plants appear to shrivel too much, the
pipes may be occasionally syringed
early in the mornings of fine days.
The number of pipes and tanks re-
quired depends, of course, upon the
size ff the houses. The large house
at Messrs. Henderson's, of Pine-Apple
Place, has four tanks in it ; the width
of the house is eighteen feet. Two of
those tanks are open, that is, have no
cover, and arc placed under a platform
formed with large thick slates, spaces
i being left between each to alloAv tho
j moisture to ascend amongst the plants.
The other tanks have covers to them,
j with holes to let out the moisture.
| These holes have brass lids to them,
j so that the moisture can be confined
as circumstances require. Now, this
answers the purpose well during the
months of spring, but we have too
much moisture during winter, so that
the plants grow more than they flower.
Supposing, then, a house eighteen feet
wide requires four tanks ; a house four-
teen feet will require three ; nine feet,
two ; and less than that only one. The
return pipes may run under the tanks
to the boiler, or if the tanks are placed
so near the floor that the return pipes
cannot be placed under, they may be
arranged to run on one side. The best
kind of boiler we know is one formed
of several round pipes, connected at
each end by a square one. From this
square pipe the hot water rises into the
tanks, and the return pipes bring the
water back to it to be reheated. Mr.
Taylor, the hothouse builder, at Ken-
sail New Town, is in the habit of put-
ting up these boilers, and they answer
admirably.
Shelves. In any convenient part of
the house where a shelf can be put so
near the glass as to allow plants in
pots to be placed upon it, it is desir-
able to have them. We have always
found small plants, in pots, that have
made a good start do well in such a
situation. The plants, however, should
not be too near the glass. The ex-
tremity of the leaves should be at least
nine inches from it. The shelves, also,
should not be placed where the water
that overflows or runs through the pots
will drop upon any plants.
Stages. The arrangement of these
will depend upon the width of the
house. If the house is wide enough
to allow a walk all round it, and a
walk in the centre, there will be two
stages. The centre walk should be
elevated as high as possible, to allow
head room for the manager and visitors
to walk comfortably. This elevated
walk is of considerable use, affording
OKC
[ 057 ]
ORC
a good opportunity to watch the pro-
gress and state of the plants, and to
observe when they require watering,
repotting, and cleaning from insects.
An example of this arrangement may
be seen in the orchid-house at Kew.
Shelves of the Staije. Every shelf
ought to be a shallow cistern to hold
water. Blue slate is the best material
to form each shelf on the stage. The
upright slate forming the sides of each
ought to be elevated at least two
inches, and made water-tight. These
cistern-shelves may either be tilled with
small pebbly gravel, all the sand or
other binding material being washed
out of it, to prevent it setting hard, or
they may be left empty, and shallow
pots turned upside down, just high
enough to allow the plants to stand
clear of the water ; for it is intended
that these cistern-shelves should be
during summer kept full of water.
These shelves of the stage must be as
near the glass as the size of the plant
will allow. Several advantages to the
health of the orchids accrue from this
arrangement. The most important is
a constant supply of moisture to the air,
at a time when the heat of summer
renders the application of heat to the
tanks unadvisable. Another advantage
is the prevention of the attacks of in-
sects, such as woodlice, and slugs ;
these destructives cannot travel through
water ; and as the plants stand, as it
were, upon a number of little islands,
they are protected both day and night
from these devouring enemies. Care,
however, must be taken that the citadel
itself does not harbour them. The
cockroach and woodlouse often secrete
themselves during the day amongst the
rough pieces of turf and broken pots
used as drainage. If there is any sus-
picion that these enemies are in these
secret places, they must be diligently
sought for, by visiting the houses with
a bull's-eye lantern by night, and
catching them at their depredations.
Pursue them with all your diligence.
Should the tender roots, or flower-
shoots, still appear to be eaten occa-
sionally, take the severe measure of
turning the plants out of the pots, and
search for the vermin amongst the peat
42
1 and potsherds, and when they are once
; entii-ely got rid of, take care to place
! the plants so that their leaves do not
come in contact with any thing that will
form a bridge for the insects to travel
on.
Hanging i(p Plants on LOIJS or in
Baskets. Large - headed nails, or
hooks, may be driven into the rafters,
or strong iron rods, well painted, may
be suspended along the roof over the
walks, and strong iron hooks, shaped
like the letter S, placed at proper dis-
tances to hang up the various kinds of
plants that require such situations.
We recommend the situation for these
to be over the walks, to prevent the
water, when applied upon the plants,
falling on the stages or shelves. Where
these plants are numerous, it is ad-
visable to devote a part of the house to
them. Underneath would be a con-
venient situation for a cistern to con-
tain the rain-water that falls upon the
roof, the best of all water for watering
purposes.
Cistern. This is almost indispen-
sable. The one in the orchid-house at
Messrs. Henderson's, is formed with
slate one inch thick. The great use is
the heating the water for syringing and
watering purposes. Another use, and
an important one too, is for dipping
the blocks Avith the plants on them ;
also to dip the Stanhopeas, Gonyoras,
| and other plants in baskets. When
those plants begin to grow in the spring
they require a good steeping, and the
cistern offers a proper place for that
purpose. Two or three hours will not
be too much to steep them. The peat
during the time of rest becomes dry
and hard, and requires this wetting to
soften it, especially if the plants are to
be shifted into new baskets.
As orchids require frequent syringing,
sometimes twice or thrice a day, we
have made use of pots garden-pot?,
in fact, without holes. These are placed
round the house near the hot-water
pipes, at a small distance, about six or
nine feet apart. Our readers, that are
in the habit of syringing, will imiae-
diately perceive the great saving of
time and labour by having these pots
so handy. Instead of having the water
DEC
OEC
to carry in garden watering-pans, these
pots being kept constantly full of warm
water are always ready.
Syringing in Winter. During the j
dark days of winter, the operation of j
syringing requires considerable judg- |
ment. A large number of orchids will |
be at rest, requiring but little water,
especially those in pots. Others, on
logs, must be syringed on such morn-
ings as the sun is likely to shine.
There are, however, a few plants, even
in pots, that are much benefited by the
free use of the syringe at all seasons
of the year. Hnntleya violacea and H.
meleagris are two plants much improved
by this mode of treatment; and the
reason they are so improved is evident
enough, when we consider the situation
in which they grow naturally. Dr.
Schomburgh found them growing on
moist rocks, near to a cataract, on a
river (Essequibo, we believe) in British
Guiana.
All the Indian tribes that have no
pseudo-bulbs require more syringing
in winter than those that have such
reservoirs of vegetable life to sustain
them. The generic or family names
of such as we mean are Aerides, An-
graecnm, Phaltenopsis, Rcnanthera, Sac-
colabium, Sarcanthus, and Vanda. All
these have a simple stem, clothed with
leaves. If exposed to a high dry heat,
the leaves and stems will shrivel much
more than is beneficial to their health ;
therefore, whenever a shrivelling is
perceived, let them have a gentle sy-
ringing, thoroughly wetting the whole
plant. This will revive them, and keep
them fresh and healthy.
Syringing in Spring and Summer. It
is during these two growing seasons
that the syringe is most beneficial, and
then they should be deluged almost
with showers from the syringe, taking
the precaution to allow them to become
dry once a day. They are sure to
become dry enough during the night.
Let the water from the syringe be
milk-warm rain water, and let it fall
gently upon the plants ; thus imitating
natural showers of rain as much as
possible. We have found the plants
much refreshed in summer by .a gentle
syringing, when it was actually raining
out of doors. In truth, if such a thing
could be managed, we should be glad
to expose them, during the gentle warm
showers of April, to the rain that falls
from the clouds. We are quite sure it
would do them good. It is, however,
the plants on logs that benefit most
by the use of the syringe, both in
winter and summer. Of course, they
require the most when they are making
fresh roots and growths ; but even
when at rest they must be syringed
occasionally, to prevent the roots and
pseudo-bulbs from shrinking too much.
In that state, the finest- rosed syringe
must be used, to prevent so much water
falling upon the plants (if any) below.
During the seasons when the syringe
is used most freely, should any of the
plants have perfected their growth, and
consequently require less water, place
such in a corner of the house by them-
selves, and syringe them less fre-
quently. Towards the end of summer
the whole of the plants ought to be
perfecting their growths, excepting the
Indian ones above-mentioned, and the
Huntleyns. These grow, more or less,
all the year, but others must have an
entire rest ; therefore, cease syringing
so much as soon as you think there
is a fulness and ripeness about the
pseudo-bulbs, showing that they have
made the growth for the year. If you
continue syringing as much as ever,
there is danger of starting them again
into growing prematurely, and then you
will have weak, puny shoots, and injure
both the flowering and growth for the
ensuing season. It is impossible to
give any particular time when to cease
syringing, or watering at the root witli
a garden pot : experience and observa-
tion must guide the cultivator. In
general, we may say the quantity of
water, whether applied with the garden
pot or syringe, ought to be considerably
lessened towards the end of summer
that is, about the end of August. The
pseudo-bulbs ought to be then fully
formed ; and, whenever that is the
case, they require much less water.
By the middle of October, the water
ought to be entirely withheld, excepting
just enough to prevent the plants from
shrivelling.
OBC
[ 030 ].
OEC
Shading. We use a kind of canvass
called " bunting." It is thin and open
in the mesh, yet just close enough to
prevent the rays of the sun striking
through the glass, and injuring the
flowers and leaves. We shall try to
describe how it is applied. First, a
pole about Jtwo inches in diameter, of
the length of the house, or rather
longer, is made of deal, and quite
round. At one end a kind of wheel
is fixed, of larger diameter than the
pole (about one -third). On each side
of this wheel a round board is nailed,
projecting beyond it about three inches.
These boards are about three-quarters
of an inch thick, and are bevelled off
from the inside. When this is done, it
forms a groove. This is intended to
receive the cord, it being nailed to the
wheel. The canvass is then nailed to
the long pole, it having first been sown
together of the size of the house. The
pole, with the canvass attached to it, is
then laid upon the house, a flat piece
of wood 2-| inches wide, and a quarter-
of-an-inch thick, is nailed to the highest
point of the house, and the canvass is
tightly stretched and nailed to the flat
piece of wood, using some narrow
woollen lists stretched along it pre-
viously to driving in the tacks. This
prevents, in a great measure, the can-
vass from tearing off with the winds.
Then taking hold of the cord now
wrapped round the wheel and pulling
at it, the wheel turns round, and, of
course, the pole also; the canvass wraps
round it, and, at last, is rolled up at the
top; the cord is then fastened to a
long kind of button, and there remains
till shade is required. The cord is then
unfolded, and the pole let gradually
down to the bottom, where some pieces
of wood stop it from going off the
house, or tearing away the canvass
from the top. It may be made to last
longer, by having weather boards fixed
on the top of the house to receive the
canvass when rolled up under it, thus
sheltering it from the rain, which is
the great cause of its decay. Care must
be taken when it is rolled up, that it is
perfectly dry. During the dark short
days of winter, when the sun has not
power to injure the plants, the blind
| may be stored away in some dry shed
I or room till the days lengthen, and the
[ sunshine becomes dangerous to the
well-being of the plants.
The proper amount of Heat, Moisture,
and Air the Plants require at all times of
the year. The power of heating should
be more than is required in ordinary
winters in order to be prepared for
those very severe ones that sometimes
occur. It is always easy enough to give
less heat in moderate weather by having
less fire applied under the boiler. The
degrees of heat required, we shall now
give for all the year.
FAHRENHEIT.
Spring ; 75
i Summer i 85 or !
j Autumn i 79
| Winter | 65
MEXICAN i
HOUSE.
Spring I 70
Summer | 75
Autumn 60
Winter 55
65 | 60
65 j 60
55 | 50
50 ! 50
Our readers will perceive that the
lowest temperature at all seasons is in
the morning ; that is, before the fires
are stirred. The heat in the mornings
in summer will depend upon the heat
of the atmosphere out of doors ; the
rest of the day may be regulated by
giving air. The principle of having a
j lower temperature during the night is
perfectly natural. The variations even
in tropical countries in that respect is
great.
Watering ivith the Garden -pot. As a
general rule, let it be laid down never
to water an orchid except it requires it ;
therefore, in commencing to water,
observe each plant well, but quickly,
and water accordingly. An orchid re-
quires watering when it is growing and
dry. The quantity to be given depends,
again, upon the stage of its growth.
If the young shoots and new roots are
just beginning only to make their ap-
pearance, they require a very mode-
rate quantity ; but, as then, the plant
ought to be repotted, and the new
ORC
[ 060 ]
one
fresh compost is, or should be, moist of
itself, the water must be withheld until
the surface, at least, feels quite dry to
the touch. Again, the water should
be applied at a small distance from the
young shoots, which ought never to be
saturated, or even wetted, especially
either in the dark cloudy days of
winter or of early spring. In summer,
when the heat is increased, the sun
shining, and air given, the operator
need not be so nice, as the extra water
will soon evaporate, and dry up even
from the young and tender shoots.
When the young shoots begin to form
pseudo-bulbs, the quantity of water
may be increased, care being taken
that it does not lodge in the leafy
sheaths which surround the green or
young bulbs, especially of Cattleyas.
We have often seen a year's groAvth
destroyed by allowing the water to
lodge in those tender parts. The way
to remedy this is with a sharp knife, or
a small pair of scissors, to slit open to
the bottom the sheaths that hold the
water, but this is an operation that
must be done very carefully, without
injuring the young pseudo-bulb, or the
cure will be as bad as the disease ; for,
if you wound a pseudo-bulb, ten to one
it will perish. As soon as these sheaths
turn yellow, and not before, they may
be entirely removed safely. When in
that state they will easily part from the
bulb without injuring it, if carefully
pulled off. When the growths are young,
whether the water is applied with the
rose or spout alone, it will generally
be quite sufficient to wet the earth,
or compost, only round near the edge
of each pot. If the water is poured
indiscriminately all over the surface of
the compost, especially in the early
season of the year, the consequence
will be to endanger the young shoots.
At that season, and in that state, if the
water is slushed upon the plants, it
will cause several, if not all, of the
tender young growths to perish; but
as those growths begin to approach
their usual size, and the warm, long,
sunshiny days prevail, that is the criti-
cal or very time orchids require an
abundance of water.
Giving Air. The method we recom-
mend to give air by, is with wooden
shutters, let into the wall at intervals
of four feet between each, on each side
of the house. The wooden shutters, or
doors, should be 2^ feet long by If)
inches broad. A frame of wood ought
to be fitted into the opening in the wall,
to hang the shutters on. These should
i swing on the centre with two iron pins,
so that when they open they will be
horizontal, and let the air into the
house plentifully. When less air is
required, every other aperture need
only be opened, or the shutters may
be propped only half open. When
they are opened, the fresh air will rush
in, and meeting with the pipes in its
progress, will be partially heated and
softened before it comes in contact with
the plants a point worth attending to.
For nine months in the year this way
of giving air to the Indian house will
be found all that is wanted. During
the three hot months of summer, it
will be necessary to give some air at
the highest part of the roof. The
ridge of the house should be made flat,
about nine inches broad, and pails of
it made moveable to lift up with an iron
rod, whenever the heat of the internal
air exceeds the proper degree. This
is the guide on all occasions, and all
seasons. When the heat is too much,
give air.
It will be found, that the Mexican
house requires more frequently to have
air given to it than the other, because
the plants in it do not require so much
heat. To know, at all times, when to
give air, have a copy of the table of
heat for the orchid-house copied, and
hung up in a convenient place to
refer to.
Resting. To know when the bulbs
are in a proper state to go to rest, may
be, to our readers, of some consequence.
They ought to be strong, and, if ex-
pected to flower, at least three feet
high, stout and firm, quite to the apex.
All the leaves ought to turn yellow,
and drop off in the same manner as any
other annually leaf-shedding plant;
and all this ought to take place early in
autumn. As soon as it does so, re-
move the plant, or plants, into a drier
and cooler house, and keep them there
one
[ 001 ]
ORG
until the buds at the bottom of each