just before taking it off' the fire. It
should be poured hot into paper or tin
moulds, to preserve for use as wanted,
and be kept slightly stirred till it begins
to harden.
GRAINS OF PARADISE. Amo'mum
gra'na-paradi'si.
GRAMMA'NTHES. (From yramma,
writing, and anthos, a flower; marks
like V being on the corolla. Nat. ord.,
Hmiseleclts [Crassulacenc]. Linn., 5-
Penlandria Q-JPentaOy'ti in.
Greenhouse annuals from the Cape of Good
Hope. Sow thinly in pots, well drained ; lime
GRA
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rubbish and sandy loam, equal parts; plants
may be kept in greenhouse, or planted on rock-
work in summer.
G. chloreefio'ra (yellow-flowered). . Yellow,
red. July. 1774.
~ gentianoi'des (gentian-like). $. Pinkish red.
1848.
- retrofle'xa (bent-back). Orange. 1788.
GRAMMATOPHY'LLUM. (From gram-
mata, letters, and phyllon, a leaf; re-
ferring to the markings on the leaves.
Nat. ord., Orchids [Orchidacese]. Linn.,
20-Gynandria I-Monandria. Allied to
Brassia.)
Stove orchids. Divisions ; basket, well raised
in it, and packed with sphagnum and fibry
peat. Summer temp., 60 to 90; winter, 50
to 55.
G. multiflo'rum (many-flowered). 2. Brown,
green. May. Manilla. 1838.
tigri'num (tiger-like). Spotted.
May. Manilla. 1837.
specio'sum (showy) . 6. Yellow, brown. May.
East Indies. 1837.
GRAMMI'TIS. (From yramme, letter-
ing ; in reference to the spore cases
or seed apparatus. Nat. ord., Ferns
[Polypodiacese]. Linn., 2-Crypto-
< I anna 1-Filices.)
Chiefly stove ferns, with brownish yellow
spores. Division ; peat and loam. Summer
temp., 60 to 80; winter, 50 to 58.
G. Austra'lis (Australian). July. New South
Wales. 1822.
cuculla'ta (hooded). July. Isle of Luzon.
1840.
elonga'ta (elongated). July. West Indies.
1824'.
furca'ta (forked- leaved), July. Trinidad.
1825.
Jii'rtu (hairy). July. Isle of Luzon. 1840.
lanceola'ta (spear-head-teawed). July. Mau-
ritius. 1824.
linea'ris (narrow-leaved). July. Jamaica.
1823.
GEANADILLA. This is a name some-
times given to several species of the
Passiflora, but one only is the true
Granadilla, Passiflo'ra quadrangula'ris ;
but P. edulis also produces edible fruit,
and may be similarly cultivated. We
are aware that there are other species
of Passiflora, the fruits of which are eat-
able, such as the P. malifo'rmis, or sweet
calabash ; P. laurifo'lia, the laurel-
leaved or water lemon ; and P. incar-
na'ta, or the flesh-coloured, &c.
Propagation. They are nearly all
readily propagated by seeds, but most
cultivators who grow them for table
purposes prefer cuttings ; and they are
quite right; for, like most of the Cucur-
bitaceous group to which they approxi-
mate, they are apt to run much to bine
if raised from seed. Plants from cut-
tings grow more moderately, and blos-
som sooner. Seedlings will fruit readily
at two years old; but cuttings struck
very early in the spring, and highly
cultivated, will fruit the same autumn ;
but not produce a full crop.
Soil. A somewhat light and gene-
rous soil is best. The following is an
excellent compost : Decomposed mel-
low turfy loam, two parts ; old leaf soil,
two parts ; heath soil, one part ; and
sand, one part.
Culture in Growing period. P. quad-
rangular is requires a greater heat than
P. edulis in fact, a heat equivalent
to the Pine stove ; whilst P. edulis will
succeed well in an ordinary vinery.
Bottom heat is most essential, espe-
cially for the P. quadrangularis ; and,
indeed, in this, and a generous soil,
consists the chief secret of successful
culture. No place can exceed the cor-
ner of the bark-bed for the culture of
either, provided they can ramble freely
overhead, unshaded by vines or other
creepers ; for light is also essential.
The corner of the bark-bed must be
separated by bricks, pigeon-holed ; a
triangular space, which will hold a
wheelbarrow of soil, will suffice; put-
ting some bricks below for drainage.
The shoots must be carried up to within
a foot or so of the roof, and may then
be trained in any way most convenient.
The P. edulis will produce many
branches ; these must be kept thinned
out, after the manner of Melons ; but
no stopping is requisite. The P. quad-
rangularis does not so soon crowd itself
with spray; nevertheless, it will at
times require thinning out. Liberal
waterings must be given, and it must
be remembered that the roots will ex-
tend through the pigeon-holes into the
bark-bed, and will principally follow
the side of the pit walls. The most
important matter, however, is the arti-
ficial impregnation of the blossoms ;
for they will seldom " set" without it.
The following is Mr. Appleby's mode
of setting P. quandrangularis. The
whole of the calyx, corolla, and
GEA
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crown, must be cut off with a sharp
pair of pointed scissors; and tliis must
be done without injuring the flower-
stem. When all these are cut away,
there only remains the essential parts
of the flower ; the stamens, five in num-
ber, and the three stigmas. Then cut
off one or more of the stamens bearing
the anthers ; and do this without shak-
ing the dust or pollen out of the an-
thers ; then touch each stigma with the
anther, covering them with the fertiliz-
ing powder. Take an opportunity of
performing this operation early in the
morning, at the very time when the
anthers are observed to be bursting.
So far Mr. Appleby is, doubtless, right
as concerns the P. quadrangularis, which
has an exceedingly succulent calyx,
and other appurtenances ; but we never
took any further pains with P. edulis
than to look over the plants every day
about noon ; and whatever blossoms
might be out, to pluck one of the an-
thers from it, and touch the face of the
stigmas with it. By these means they
generally become impregnated.
Culture hi Rest period. As soon
as the bearing season is over, towards
October, the plants will sink to rest,
and this may be facilitated by with-
holding water entirely. They will now
become partially deciduous, and this
will induce a ripeness in the shoots ;
and in the following February they may
be pruned, cutting back all spongy and
immature growths.
Fruit. It is used in the dessert ;
and is capable of being kept for a fort-
night or so in a fruit-room, or other
place, if perfectly dry.
Insects. We have known the red
spider to attack the P. quadrangular'^ ;
for remedy, see Acarus.
GRANGE'RIA. (Named from N.
Granger, a traveller in Egypt and
Persia. Nat. ord., Chrysobalans [Cry-
sobalanaceffi]. Linn., \\-Dodecandria
\-Monogynia.}
Stove evergreen tree. Cuttings of ripe shoots,
in sandy soil, in heat, under a glass ; peat and
loaai. Summer Temp., 60 to 85; winter,
65 to 60.
G. Borbo'nica (Bourbon). 40. White. Bourbon.
1823.
GRAPE HYACINTH. Musca'ri.
GRAPE PEAR. Amela'nicher l>otry~
a' plum.
GRAPEVINE. (Wtls VlnVfora).
Varieties for Walls. 1 August Mus-
cat. 2 Early Black July. 3 Miller's
Burgundy. 4 Esperione. o Hatif
di Genes. 6 Koyal Muscadine, White.
7 Eoyal Muscadine, Black. 8 Sweet
Wateri White Dutch. 9 Sweet Water,
Black. 10 Black Hamburgh. 11
Black Prince. 12 Claret. 13 Ver-
delho. 14 Pitmaston White Cluster.
15 Lashmar's Seedling.
As superior kinds for a pretty good
climate and aspect, we recommend
Nos. 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 11 ; as kinds for in-
ferior aspects, Nos. 2, 0, 10, 14.
For Greenhouse. 1 Black Ham-
burgh. 2 Black Damascus. 3 Black
Prince. 4 West's St. Peter's. 5
Royal Muscadine. Dutch Sweet
Water. 7 Chasselas Musque. 8
Esperione; of these, Nos. 1, 3, 5, 0,
are the most to be relied on.
For Stove. 1 Muscat of Alexan dria.
2 Cannon Hall Muscat. 3 White
Frontignan. 4 Black Frontignan.
5 Black Hamburgh. 6 Black Dam-
son. 7 Eoyal Muscadine. 8 Dutcli
Sweet Water. 9 Chasselas Musque.
10 West's St. Peter's. 11 Charles-
worth Tokay. 12 Black Barbarossa ;
of these Nos. 1, 2, 3, 4, 11, are kinds
of superior merit, and require much
heat. Nos. 7, 8, at the warmest end
will be exceedingly early. Nos. 5, 0, 9,
10, will provide for a succession. Of No.
12, we at present have no experience,
it is stated to be a very long keeper,
and is highly recommended.
Propagation. Layering has almost
fallen into disuse ; their culture from
eyes or single buds having superseded
it. Layers will root either from the
growing shoot, or from young wood
layered in a state of rest. The latter
operation is performed any time from
November to the beginning of March,
and no tongue or slit is requisite. Most
of the Vines, in former days, were
i raised in this way; the nurserymen
having old plants, or stocks for the
purpose, around which the shoots were
layered in pots, generally in February,
and they made saleable plants by the
autumn. Layering of the growing shoot
GRA
[ 441 1
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is a more delicate procedure, and it is
well to introduce a portion of the pre-
vious year's wood where possible.
Cuttings are best made from shoots
in the rest state, and may either be
made short or long. Speedily recom-
mends two inches of the two year old,
and one bud or eye of the new. These
were inserted perpendicularly in pots,
the bud just level with the surface.
They will, however, strike root from
thick shoots, of three or four years
old, of a greater length, and these may,
if necessary, be planted at once in the
border ; or if in pots, deep ones must
be used, and the cutting may be sloped
or bent. In all these cases, the cuttings
must be buried nearly their whole
length beneath the siirface. Bottom
heat will facilitate speedy rooting.
Eyes. This is the most approved
plan, for the plant thus approaches
nearest to a seedling state. These are
generally planted in pots, a single eye
in each, at the end of January, and
plunged in a bottom heat of from 70
to 80. Prunings are reserved for this
purpose in the autumn, and these
being cut in convenient lengths, are
imbedded in moist soil until winter.
About half an inch of wood may be re-
served above the eye, cutting it sloping
away from the bud, and about an inch
or so below the bud ; the latter section
made horizontally. These, inserted
singly in five-inch pots, may be plunged
in a bottom heat of from 70 to 80,
and care must be taken that the worms
do not get into the soil. When grown
nearly a foot in height, they should be
repotted into pots of about seven inches
diameter, using a rich turfy soil, and
draining thoroughly. Many good gar-
deners reserve a portion of the two
years old wood at the base of each
eye, and there can be little doubt that
it is good practice.
Coils. Obtain prunings from healthy
and fruitful vines on the rod system ;
these prunings should be from two to
four feet in length. Such being plun-
ged in a bottom heat of from 70 to
80, and in an atmosphere ranging from
50 to 00, have a tendency to produce
roots before shoots; and this is the
object sought. Fruiting pots of twelve
to fifteen inches in diameter should be
used, and a compost of turfy loam and
half rotten manure, with the addition
of charred material, lime rubbish or
sand ; any, or all of them added in the
proportion of a sixth of the mass, in
order to ensure the free passage of
moisture. Thorough drainage being
secured, the end of the shoot is pressed
down against the bottom of the pot,
and the shoot bent round, until as
many coils or turns as possible are
made : leaving at last, four or five stout
eyes above the level of the pot rim.
The pot is then filled with the com-
post, and careful watering, a judicious
control of heat, augmenting the amount
of atmospheric warmth as the leaves
unfold, together with the usual routine
of stopping, thinning the berries, &c.,
as applied to established vines, must
be carried out. The turfy compost is
filled in as the coiling proceeds.
Grafting is not often practised. As
in most other cases of grafting, the
stock should be slightly in advance of
the scion. Perhaps the stock should
have unfolded a few large leaves before
the operation is practised. Then the
usual whip grafting is the best plan.
A couple of eyes on the graft are
sufficient. It is good practice to bind
moss round the whole at last, even
shading the buds of the scion for
awhile. The moss may be moistened
daily.
Inarching. This may be performed
with either the growing shoot, or with
that in a rest state. A plant established
in a pot of the kind to be introduced
must be procured. With regard to in-
arching in a rest state, it is proper that
the sap should be in motion at the pe-
riod of operating, and that the stock, if
possible, should, as in grafting, be
slightly in advance of the scion. Vines
which are breaking are in an eligible
state, and the kind to be inarched may
be just emerging from a rest state.
The point of junction being determined,
the pot must be so fixed as that no
slipping can occur, and that the shoot
may be readily bent to meet the parent
plant. Nothing is necessary but to
pare a thin slice of bark with a little of
the wood from the facings of the scion
GRA
[ 44Q ]
GRA
and stock, which are to be fitted, and
then to bind them carefully together
close, but not too tight just as in or-
dinary grafting. A little moss may be
fastened round the point of junction,
and this frequently moistened. In-
arching of the growing shoot is, how-
ever, the best practice, but it is an ope-
ration that requires nice handling. The
shoot of the stock is best at about the
middle of its annual growth, when it
has begun to acquire some solidity and
toughness. The scion may be some-
what younger, and everything being
adjusted, a section must be made in
each, as before, cutting through the
bark and a little into the alburnous
matter, and fitting them nicely toge-
ther. It may be observed, that the
ligature must not be so tight as in the
old wood. The whole may be covered
with moss, and in six weeks the junc-
tion will be complete. In the mean-
time a progressive stopping of the spray
on the stock must take place, in order,
by degrees, to transfer a portion of the
luxuriance of the stock to the scion.
When the pruning season arrives, the
stock may be cut back in part or wholly.
Thus a vinery possessing inferior kinds
may be renovated in a very short pe-
riod.
Seed. Perfectly ripe grapes of the
kinds intended to be propagated from,
should be pressed, the seeds washed
and thoroughly dried, and then secured
like other seeds until the following
February. They may then be sown in
well-drained pots, in a light, rich soil,
rather sandy, and plunged in a bottom
heat of from 70 to 80. In about a
month they will vegetate; the seed-
lings may be potted off, and hencefor-
ward reared as plants from eyes, con-
tinuing bottom warmth until Midsum-
mer, and training the shoot (unstopped)
fully to the light in a warm situation.
They may in the autumn be cut back
to two or three eyes, and grown through
the following summer as before ; again
pruning back in the autumn. In about
four years they will fruit on their own
roots; but, perhaps, a year will be
gained by inarching them near the ex-
tremity of a sound and fruitful old vine.
Wall Culture. The first essential is
a mellow and thoroughly drained soil.
An ordinary sandy loam is the best
staple, but almost any ordinary garden
soil will suit, if it is capable of receiving
and transmitting moisture with facility.
Vine roots will descend to a considerable
depth if the soil be mellow, but we
would rather grant them extra width,
especially if the situation is not par-
ticularly favourable. Whether bor-
ders, or, what are much more econo-
mical stations, are made, we would
first thoroughly drain the site, and
then place some imperishable ma-
terial, as stone, brick, or clinkers
rammed close beneath them, leaving
only half a yard of soil in depth,
unless the roots are securely limited in
width. This done, the natural soil
must be examined with practical accu-
racy, and accordingly, as sand or clay
predominates, so must be the amount
and character of the correcting mate-
rial. If destitute of organic matter, or
turfy fibre, something must be intro-
duced to enrich it, such as fresh manure,
and abundance of rotten weeds, leaves,
&c., indeed, anything of a decaying
vegetable kind; remembering that a
good portion must be such as will endure
long, and slowly give out its enriching
qualities. Some coarse bone manure,
and rubbly charcoal, will be a capital
addition ; and a good deal of charcoal
rubbish or brush wood. If the situa-
tion is cool and damp, place half the
volume of this material above the ordi-
nary ground level.
Planting. The end of March is the
most eligible time ; and strong plants
being at hand, if in pots, let the soil be
carefully shaken away, and every root be
carefully uncoiled, and spread out, like
a tree fan-trained, and place a little
superior compost about the roots,
covering the surface with three inches
of coarse charred material. This will
absorb a great amount of heat from the
sun, and admit water freely when ne-
cessary. As the plants grow, they must
be carefully trained, and no stopping
practised the first season. In the
autumn, however, they must be pruned
back to three or four eyes ; and in the
next season the shoots from these eyes
must be trained to the desired form,
GKA
C 443 ]
GRA
which will be regulated by the character
of the space they are to occupy, whether
on a building or a Avail.
Out-door Culture during the Rest pe^
riod. Pruning is a first consideration,
and this is done soon after the fall of
the leaf. Many conflicting practices,
as to out-door culture, have competed
for the palm of victory here, even as
with in- door vines ; but it is probably
best not to attempt to tie the hands of
those who try their culture by too
severe rules. One safe maxim is, that
no two of the principal leaves should
so overlap each other as to obstruct
the solar light. From about eight to
*ten inches, therefore, at least, may be
given between each of the growing
shoots. This, then, will be a guide as
to the distance at which the shoots
should be trained. As for root culture
at this period, nothing will be needed but
to preserve the surface fibres from the
spade, which is but too apt to approach
too close to those on kitchen-garden
walls. When vines become somewhat
exhausted with much bearing, top-
dressings of good soil and manure
become necessary.
Out-door Culture during Growth. We
must here be brief, for the main prin-
ciples will be found somewhat identical
with those connected with in-door cul-
ture. All superfluous young spray must
be thinned away, and the bearing shoots
stopped an eye or two beyond the
bunch. Where, however, there is wall-
ing to be tilled, the dresser may leave
several eyes or buds beyond the bunch.
In due time the bunches must be
thinned ; one to a square foot of wall
will, in general, suffice. The berries,
too, must be thinned out at the proper
period, and a frequent stopping of the
lateral shoots practised, never suffering
them to shade the principal leaves.
Towards the beginning of September,
all the stopped laterals may be entirely
removed, in order to permit a free cir-
culation of air, and allow the sun to
heat the wall ; protection also must be
afforded to the bunches against wasps,
flies, &c.
Greenhouse Culture. Having attended
to the character of the soil requisite
for the vine, we have little to report on
the subject of border making ; which
must, however, be at all times consi-
dered the most important point in the
whole of the proceedings. A more
generous soil is necessary for in-door
vines, inasmuch as a greater demand
exists at times on their vital powers
through the powerful effects of solar
light beneath glass ; as also owing to
a greater amount of dryness at times
in the atmosphere. The first point is
to elevate the border above the ground
level in proportion to the lowness, cold-
ness, or dampness of the situation.
Thorough drainage we have before
pointed to ; it is not possible to drain
too imich if the soil be of proper texture.
As to soil, turfy loam, inclining to sand,
should form nearly one-half the volume
of soil. To this may be added one
quarter part of coarse manure, leaf-
mould, &c., rather raw than otherwise ;
and the other quarter, part of rubbly
and imperishable materials, such as
lumpy charcoal, old plaster, and the
rubbish of old buildings, coarse bone
manure, &c. All these well blended,
and filled in when dry, will produce a
first-rate compost, taking care to place
a layer of turf at the bottom.
Course of Culture. Whatever com-
bination exists as to a greenhouse
vinery, whether it be for vines alone or
used in conjunction for pot-plants, an
uniform system should be pursued as
to the vines, both during the growing
season, and the rest period. This
system consists in the regular pruning,
dressing of the wood, in order to the
extirpation of all insects, and the
usual vine dressing during the growing
period, the latter being, disbudding,
stopping, thinning the berry, and train-
ing principles applicable to the vine
in all its positions.
Stove Culture. Vines in stoves are
generally combined with pine culture,
and the excitement by heat, is, there-
fore, at times considerable. In former
days it was supposed that vines must
be turned outside the house and frozen,
in order to restore their energies ; but
abundant proofs exist, that from 50
to 55 may be submitted to, in ex-
treme cases, during the rest season.
Whatever culture is combined with
GEA
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GRA
that of the vines, it is best to con-
fine these to the rafters on the
spurring system. For early forcing,
and where the house is specially de-
voted to vines, it is another affair
here either the long rod system or the
spurring may be used. We need not
repeat advice as to border making, and
the usual routine of disbudding, stop-
ping, thinning the berry, and the fre-
quent pinching of the lateral. One
remark may be permitted as to bor-
ders ; let them be inside the house if
the interior arrangement will permit,
and the front wall on arches. When at
rest, we would not allow the thermo-
meter to sink below 85.
Vines in Pots is a mode of culture
only to be recommended as an adjunct
to late vineries, and where the pos-
sessor, not desiring to build a house
for early forcing, yet desires to have
a few early grapes. The plants should
be reared from eyes, and receive very
high culture ; and at the end of the
second summer they should be strong
canes, and in high perfection for forcing.
They must receive liberal shifts when
they need repotting, and their shoots
be constantly trained in a very light-
situation. The young plants, at the
end of the first season's growth, will
require pruning back to two buds, from
which one may, during their progress,
be carefully trained, and the other re-
moved. When the cane has grown
about five feet in length, during the
second season, it is well to stop it, in
order to strengthen the lower leaves, on
the healthy action of which the future
crop depends. The leader, however,
which succeeds, may be laid in full
length, well exposed to the light, but
the laterals which push from the sides
must be pinched back, leaving one bud
only, and this pinching must be con-
tinued all through the season, when
necessary. In the second autumn
they will be strong canes, with remark-
ably plump buds, and they may now,
when the leaves are decayed, be pruned
back to some five or six eyes, according
to the Avish of the cultivator. Having
received their final shift into pots of
about fifteen inches in diameter, in the
preceding June they will require
nothing but a rich top-dressing. They
enjoy a bottom-heat of 70 to 80, but
they may be made to succeed on the
j kerb stones or back shelves of the
I stove, away from cold draughts, and
, near the flues or piping. Liquid ma-
| nure must be liberally supplied, and
j the same course of culture as to dis-
budding, stopping, thinning the berry,
and training, pursued as with the
rafter vines. A rich turfy loam must
be used as compost three parts of
' this to one of rich, half-decomposed
manure, will be found excellent, ad-
ding some charcoal, and a little lime
rubbish. The turfy loam should be
nearly a year old, and must be well
chopped with the spade, not sifted.
The pots must be most carefully
drained nearly one- fifth of their depth ;
any stagnation whatever will surely
prove fatal. If the pots were un-
plunged, some screen, such as moss or
old matting should be interposed be-