tween them and the sand, or they may
have double pots.
Diseases. Shrivelling of the berries
of the grape in stoves appears to arise
from the roots of the vine not supplying
a sufficiency of sap, as well as from its
not being duly elaborated in the leaves.
This occurs if the roots are in a cold
soil, or are vegetating in an outside
border, the temperature of which is too
low compared with that of the stove.
In the first case, thorough draining and
the incorporation of calcareous rubbish ;
and in the second case, protection to
the border and stem, will remove the
evil. If the sap be not duly elaborated,
it must arise, either separately or con-
jointly, from the leaves vegetating in
an ungenial atmosphere, or from their
being too reduced in number.
If the roots of the vines are found
to have penetrated the soil deeply, they
should be lifted very carefully, brick-
bats placed beneath the roots, and
these trained about nine inches beneath
the surface. If drainage of the border
has been neglected, let it be effected at
the same time. If the loss of the
crop which would be occasioned by the
lifting of the whole of the vines would
be inconvenient, only one or two can
be so treated in successive autumns.
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The most injurious time for an un-
natural disparity of temperature in the
air and soil to occur is at night; for,
as was justly observed by the late Mr.
Knight, an ill effect of high temperature
during the night is, that it exhausts
the excitability of the tree much more
rapidly than it promotes the growth,
or accelerates the maturity of the fruit,
which is in consequence ill supplied
with nutriment at the period of its
ripening, when most nutriment is pro-
bably wanted. The Muscat of Alex-
andria, and other late grapes, are,
owing to this cause, often seen to wither
upon the bunch in a very imperfect
state of maturity; and the want of
richness and flavour in other forced
fruit is often attributable to the same
cause. The Frontignans are among
the varieties apt to shrivel under
great disparity of temperature between
the roots and branches.
Somewhat allied in its causes to
shrivelling, is that unsightly imper-
fection where the berries do not come
to maturity at the point of the bunches,
leaving from five to ten quite colourless
and sour, though others on the same
bunch are fine and large. In such
case the remedies are to give more
heat and air, keeping the border warm-
er than before, and to avoid cold damps
in the house ; leave as much foliage as
can be exposed fully to light. The
leaves removed must be by little at a
time. In thinning, clip off a few berries
at the lower extremity of the bunch ;
the rest will swell better.
Slianklny is an ulceration, or gan-
grene, attacking the footstalks of the
bunches, and appears to be occasioned,
like shrivelling, by the temperature of
the soil being too much below that in
which the branches are vegetating ;
and, consequently, the supply of sap to
the grapes is much diminished, and
the parts which thus fail of support
immediately begin to decay ; this is an
effect always the consequence of a di-
minished supply of sap, apparent either
in the leaves, flower, or fruit. The
disease, like every other putrefaction,
does not advance rapidly unless there
be much moisture in the atmosphere.
The coldness of the soil causes this
torpidity in the action of the root ; and
this, perhaps, at the very period when,
the greatest demand is made upon it to
sustain the excessive perspiration which
is going on in the leaf, and to furnish
fresh matter for elaboration ; to both
which ends it is frequently quite inad-
equate, owing to drenching rains. If
the young fibre be examined at such
inclement periods, it will be found
somewhat discoloured ; and, in some
cases, quite rotten. Shanking, we con-
ceive, is generally caused by the un-
natural disagreement of temperature
between the root and top, independent,
in the main, of the question of moisture.
It generally occurs with vines which
have been somewhat forced ; seldom
on open walls seldom with vines
forced in pots or tubs. The obvious
prevention of shanking is securing a
congenial relative temperature to the
roots and foliage.
Rust comes upon the berries in the
form of a rough, rusty appearance of
their skins, which have, in fact, become
thick and indurated. Some think it
arises from their being handled, or the
hair of the head touching them ; but
the disease is often too general to
admit of this topical explanation. We
believe it to arise from an over-heating
of the vinery, however unintentional,
whilst the grapes were young, and thus
tending to force them to a premature
rapidity of growth. Any excessive
pressure upon the cuticle, whether
from within or from without, causes its
thickening. This considerable eleva-
tion being succeeded by a sudden re-
duction of temperature, will almost
certainly induce the disease.
The Spot affecting the berries seems
to be the same disease as shanking,
only affecting a different part. Like
this disease, it is a gangrene, and is
probably occasioned by an irregularity
in the supply of moisture and vicissi-
tudes of temperature, but especially if
one of the extremes is much below the
degree of heat most favourable to the
healthy growth of that plant. Muscats
are particularly liable to the spot. Our
opinion that sudden vicissitudes of
temperature are the causes of this
disease, seems to be well sustained
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[ 446 ]
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by the fact, that the parts nearest the
glass, that is, the upper portions of the
hunches, and those parts most exposed
to the sun's influence, are the first to
suffer ; and this, also, goes far towards
substantiating the assertion, that the
shade of the foliage is necessary to the
well-doing of grapes.
Want of Colour is often a defect of
the Black Grape, but not at all neces-
sarily arising from deficient light. The
green colour of leaves depends entirely
upon the presence either of light or of
uncombined hydrogen gas, but vege-
table reds, purples, and other colouring
matters of fruits, are formed, though
less intense, even in a total absence
from light. So far from full exposure
to light being requisite for the full co-
louring and ripening of grapes, they
never attain these desired qualities so
well as when shaded by one thickness
of leaf. The colouring matter of all
fruit is dependent partly upon the leaves
immediately above it, and partly upon
the fruit itself ; the necessary digestion
of the sap being commenced in the one
and perfected in the other. If this
digestion or elaboration of the sap is
checked by ungenial temperature, but
more particularly if the crop is too
heavy for the vine, or if the leaves, es-
pecially above the bunches, arc too
much thinned, defect of colour will
be the very usual consequence to the
berries. We have seen the blackest of
berries in situations where the sun
had never shone on them since they
blossomed; indeed, it only requires a
little close observation for one season
to dispel such a fallacy. It sometimes,
however, happens, that the principal
leaves on the same shoot with the
bunch are shaded by other main leaves,
or by laterals ; such si lading is sure to
be prejudicial to the colouring of the
berry, as well as to the maturation of
the buds connected with the shaded
leaves. And here we have one of the
reasons for such close stopping as the
vine is subjected to. Over- cropping,
alone, will lead to bad colouring; in-
deed, is one of the most fruitful sources
of it. It exhausts the tree of every
particle of prepared sap, and produces
debility in the root, which renders it
readily susceptible to the stagnating
rains of an unpropitious season.
In order to promote good colouring,
the ripening process should not be hur-
ried. It is evident, that very high tem-
peratures are not required for tliis pur-
pose, for the Black Hamburgh, on
common walls, is not deficient in co-
lour, in a good season. Now tbe co-
louring process, in the latter case, occurs
in the end of September, when the tem-
perature at night must sometimes be
near the freezing point. It is a com-
mon observation of practical men, that
the cold nights of autumn hasten ma-
turity in many crops ; and this is un-
doubtedly a fact, and traceable, we pre-
sume, to a cessation of the growing-
principle ; causing, thereby, a concen-
tration of the energies of the plant.
We would say, therefore, beware of too
high a temperature during the colour-
ing process, unless accompanied with
much solar light, and even then avoid
extremes. We would more especially
avoid night heat at this period, and
would promote a circulation of air night
and day.
Blecd'my. This only occurs to the
vine, from the unhealed surfaces of cuts
made after the sap has commenced its
motion, and before the leaves are well
expanded. A red-hot iron, applied to
the bleeding surface until it be chiirred,
will stop the effusion of sap for a time,
if not permanently, and to effect a com-
plete stoppage at once, coat the charred
surface, and rub well into it, a paste
made of lime newly burnt and grease.
This hardens and forms an effectual
plaister.
Mr. Knight's plaister wo know to be
effectual, and is thus composed :
One-fourth of calcined oyster si id Is,
beaten to fine powder in a mortar, and
three-fourths of cheese, worked loge
ther, until they form a sort of paste ;
this mixture pressed into the pores of
the wood, either with the thumb or any
other means, will effectually stop the.
How of the sap ; sometimes a repetition
may be necessary, if it is not well
forced into the pores. See Mid/ctr.
///.scr/.s. See .It'itriis, slphis, Coccus,
< 'itfciilioj and Thrijjs.
GIUPTOPHY'LLUM. (From yraplw, to
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[447 ]
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write, and phyllon, a leaf; referring to
the markings on the leaves. Nat. ord.,
Acanthads [Acanthacese]. Linn., 2-
Diandria I-Monogynia. Allied to Be-
loperone.)
Stove evergreen shrub . Cuttings of young
shoots, just getting a little firm, and a heel of
the older wood at its base, in sand, under a
bell glass, in heat ; peat and loam. Summer
temp., 55 to 75 ; winter, 50 to 55.
G. horte'nsc a'lbum (garden- white). Crimson.
July. East Indies. 1815.
GRASSES for lawns and grass plots
must be varied according to the nature
of the soil, and we know of no more
judicious selections than the following,
recommended by Messrs. Lawson, of
Edinburgh
Avcna flavescens (Yellowish
Oat Grass)
Cynosurus cristatus
(Crested Dog's Tail) ..
Festucaduriuscula (Hardish
Fescue) 3 3 4
Fcstuca tenuifolia (Fine-
leaved Fescue) 2 2 I
Lolium perenne tenue (Fine
Rye Grass) 20 20 20
Pou nemoralis (Wood Mea-
dow Grass) 14 \'i 2
Poa nemoralis sempervirens
(Evergreen Ditto) l 1^ 2
Poa trivialis (Rough-stalked
Meadow Grass) 14 lj 2
Trifolium repens (White
Clover) 777
Trifolium minus (Smaller
Yellow Clover) 2 2 1
The above mixtures are enough for
an acre. Where the ground is over-
shadowed with trees, both the kinds of
Festiica should be omitted, and similar
quantities of the two kinds of Poa
nemoralis substituted. The best time
for sowing is early in the spring.
GRASS-PLOT, correctly speaking, is a
parterre, or bed of flowers, arranged
with grass turf between them, instead
of gravel. It is usually confounded
with Lawn, which see.
GRATI'OLA. Hedge Hyssop. (From
yracia, grace ; referring to its medicinal
virtues. Nat. ord., Fit/worts [Scrophu-
lariaceoe]. Linn., Q-Diandria \-Mono-
!f!/niti. Allied to Mimulus.)
Hardy herbaceous plants. Division of the
plants in spring; rich moist soil. Latifolia
and tetrugonn require the protection of a
frame in winter.
G. au'rea (golden). . Yellow. June. North
America. 1820.
latifo'lia (broad-leaved). 1. White. July.
New Holland. 1822.
megaloca'rpa (large-fruited). Pale-yellow.
July. North America. 1828.
qfficina'lis (common-shop}. 1. Light blue.
July. Europe. 1568.
pilo'sa (hairy). White. July. North Ame-
rica. 1827.
quadridenta'ta (four- toothed). J. White.
June. North America. 1821.
tetrago'na (square-stemmed). 1. Blue. Au-
gust. Buenos Ayres. 1 830.
Virgi'nica (Virginian). 1. Yellow. Au-
gust. Virginia. 1759-
GRAVEL WALKS, like all other walks,
require a good substratum of drainage,
and the facing about five inches deep
of gravel. It must have no stones
mixed with it larger than good sized
marbles, and about one-fourth of it
must be much finer to nil the inter-
stices. Pit-gravel, with a slight admix-
ture of clay, and the more rubbly the
better, is the best for binding and form-
ing a solid walk. The more speedily
it is laid down after digging from the
pit, the more firmly will it bind.
The following is an excellent plan to
make or turn gravel walks in dry wea-
ther. If of a sandy or gravelly nature,
strew a little clay or marl upon the
walk. When turned over, take away
the large stones and place them at the
bottom of the soil. Immediately after
you level your walk, apply your iron
roller steadily, and let a labourer follow
the roller, pouring upon it water regu-
larly as it passes over the ground ; in
twenty-four hours after, if the weather
is dry, it will be as solid as a stone-
floor.
The best method of extirpating grass
from a gravel walk, is to spread salt iu
considerable quantities over its whole
surface; and if after the first applica-
tion it is found that portions of the
grass still exist, let another coating of
salt be applied, which will effectually
destroy it. Care must be taken, how-
ever, if the walk is edged with box, that
the salt does not come in contact with
it, otherwise it will destroy the edging
also.
in the early part of April, gravel
walks are usually turned. After the
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walk has been broken up and levelled,
and a facing of new gravel spread over,
tbis ought to be left for three or four
days, and until a shower of rain has
fallen, before the roller is used. This
bleaches the gravel, and washes down
the fine particles, so that, immediately
after rolling, the walk is solid, and has
a clean bright surface.
The above directions relate to the old
system of gravel-walk making, but we
strongly recommend the general adop-
tion of Concrete Walks, which see. They
are far more durable, and free from
weeds.
GREAT BURNET. Sanyuiso'rba.
GREAT CENTAU'REA. Centau'rea cen~
tau'rinm.
GREENHOUSE .-rThis is a light airy
structure designed for plants which
can sustain a lowish temperature, but
cannot withstand the vicissitudes from
frost to sunshine, and from damp to
dry, of our common winters. It is dis-
tinguished from a plant stove in re-
quiring but little artificial heat ; and
from a conservatory in having all the
plants (with, perhaps, the exception of
climbers for the rafters) grown in
portable pots or tubs, and these gene-
rally set upon a stage to bring them
nearer the glass.
The mode of constructing such a
house must be regulated by the wishes
of the proprietor, and the conveniences-
at his disposal. For general purposes
any aspect will do in an emergency,
except the north, and that raigbt be
selected for those plants that cfeiight
in the shade. The more command of
light, with the means at hand of re-
ducing its fierceness and heat when
too powerful, the better. From due
south to south-east and south-west,
may be considered the best aspects. If
it is a lean-to house, having a sloping
roof from a back wall, it should always
have a considerable amount of upright
glass in front to receive 11 ie oblique
rays of the sun in winter. By the side
of a cottage ornee the front of the
house may thus partake of the same
style of architecture, while the shed-
like sloping roof may be exchanged for
u ridge and furrow one, and that con-
cealed from external observation by a
light entablature or frie/e work. For
a neat detached structure it should
! stand, less or more, north and south,
j have a ridge and furrow roof, and
| means for breaking the sun's rays in
the morning and afternoon. We are
supposing it to bo glass all round.
When in connection with other build-
j ings a very useful and elegant house is
formed, having the front and ends of
glass, a hipped roof, and an opaque
back wall. Here, likewise, by an orna-
mental entablature, the roof, if desir-
able, may be wholly or partially con-
cealed, so as not to interfere with archi-
tectural propriety, though we should
have no great scruples on this score, as
the utility of an object, if apparent,
gives it appropriateness.
The size of the glass to be used
must depend upon the taste and the
money wished to be spent by the pro-
prietor. For the roof, especially, it
will be desirable to have it at least
sixteen ounces to the foot. Small
squares can be procured in boxes very
cheap, but what you gain in glass you
partly lose from requiring so many
sash-bars. We should not care about
having them much above eighteen
inches in length. All things considered,
if we were to roof a house most econo-
mically, we should obtain strong ma-
chinery-cut sash-bars, dispense with
rafters, use glass from fifteen to eigh-
teen inches wide, and say a foot in
depth, and secure means of ventilation
without touching the roof, by means of
the upright glass, and wooden venti-
lators at the ridge in the roof, and in
the back wall.
Slayes. These are generally shelves,
arranged in stair-like fashion, partaking
less or more of the character of the
roof. For a general collection, the
stage may be from five to six feet from
the glass roof; for insuring dwarf,
compact, bushy plants, the distance
should be from three to four feet. The
lowest shelf of the stage should be a
little higher than the shelf that sur-
rounds the house next the front glass.
Where the roof is Itiji/u'd, even though
the back wall be opaqiie, if the house
faces the south the stage should b<-.
hipped too, terminating in a single
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shelf, broad or narrow in the centre.
The north part would be admirable for
kecpimj many plants in winter, and
exhibiting in summer those that were
in full bloom. In a wide house it is
always preferable to have several stages,
in the shape of circles, ovals or tri-
angles, whichever is most approved,
with walks between them. The expense,
and the room apparently lost, are
more than compensated by the ease
with which all the plants may be ex-
amined, and the greater thickness with
which they may be safely set, as the
pathway will be so many breathing
/ones (See Floiver Stages). For low-
hipped roofed, and ridge-and-furrow
roofed houses, flat table-like trellised
stages will be the best ; the highest
plants being set in the centre, or, if
necessary, one being placed now and
then on a pot. As an improvement on
this, where extreme economy was the
object, we would dispense with the
wooden trellis, and substitute a bed of
earth, kept in its place by brick- walls,
the earth being first covered with cin-
ders, and then with pure sand, on
which to set the pots. The damping
of this sand from watering in summer
would be a source of health to the
plants, and save them from many visit-
ations. Small inclosures in such an
earth-pit, if- suitable compost were used,
would be excellent for the less hardy
creepers, which would be likely to main-
tain a lingering existence if planted, as
they sometimes are, in a border close
to the front wall.
Temperature. If merely preserving
the plants is the object, then artificial
heat may only be applied to maintain a
temperature of from 80 to 40. This
low temperature must not, however, be
longcontinuedinastagnantatmosphere.
It will, therefore, be necessary to raise
the temperature to admit air during
the day. "Where it is desired slowly to
grow the shoots, and to keep a winter
display of plants in bloom, the tem-
perature must not sink below 4"). In
either case a rise of 10 or 15 may be
allowed for sunshine in winter. In
summer the chief difficulty will be to
keep the house cool by admitting all the
air possible, and having it on night and
day. If the plants are turned out into
pits and shady places, and even very
sunny places if their nature requires
it, and their place is supplied with
tender annuals, &c., then more close-
ness and moisture must be obtained
a limitation of air and plenty of moist-
ure giving all the essentials of a plant
stove.
Artificial Heat. The best, because
the most equal and the cleanliest, is
hot water ; and the simplest of all con-
trivances is the best: a compact little
boiler, well set, and a flow and return
pipe on the simplest principles. A small
boiler and two or three-inch pipes are
the most suitable for a greenhouse
where only quick and occasional fires are
wanted. Flues are far from being des-
picable conveniences. In some respects,
in small houses, where a higher tem-
perature is wanted at one end than
another, they answer better than hot
water. When neatly built, they are no
eye sore in a house. To insure draught
the flue should be at least a third
deeper than it is wide, and the mouth
of the flue should be eighteen inches
above the bottom of the surface. For
greenhouses, one foot of four-inch pipe
will be necessary for every forty cubic
feet of air, making allowance, less or
more, according to the surface of glass,
or the presence of opaque walls ; or,
in other words, taking the square foot
of glass, it would require a foot of four-
iuch pipe for every six feet of glass ; or
a foot of a common flue above the
ground for about ten or eleven feet of
glass.
J'eiiti lotion. Means should be se-
cured for a thorough circulation of air
from the sashes in front, and the high-
est point in the roof, as there the heat
will generally be the greatest. In cold
weather in winter, unless there are
means for heating the air before it en-
ters, the little given should be at the
top of the house, as thus the cold dry
' air would be heated and absorb tho
! moisture before reaching the bulk of
i the plants. When the air is very dry,
and the weather very cold, the less siir
that is given the better. In such cir-
cumstances, the heating medium should
be cool before the sun strikes upon the
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bouse, and then the sun-heat will raise
the house the less; and 10 or 20, for
a short time, from sun-heat, is a very
different affair from having that increase
from artificial means. For greenhouse
plants, generally, in favourable weather,
too much air cannot be given, night or
day, from the middle of May to the
middle of September. For two months
preceding May, and subsequent to Sep-
tember, air should be given early in the
morning, even if it should be withdrawn
or reduced soon afterwards, or early in
the afternoon. In winter, unless the air
is very mild, it will be time enough to
give air by ten o'clock, and shut up be-
tween two and three. When the wea-
ther is very severe, one hour, or even
less, in the middle of the day, must be
sufficient. In dull, close weather, air
should be given, though a brisk fire
should be put on during the day, on
purpose. When, however, the green-
house is changed into a vinery, a place
for growing tender annuals, c., the
forwarding of the growth of Camellias,
Epacris, Azaleas, &G., then the tempe-
rature in spring and summer must be
higher, and the atmosphere closer and
moister. By means of divisions, you
may have almost as many temperatures
and atmospheres in one house as you
please, by regulating the ventilation of
the different compartments. Slight
wooden moveable divisions we find ex-
tremely useful in pots, as we can then
give a peculiar treatment to one or any
number of lights at pleasure.
Firiiifi. The heat from the furnace
merely extends vegetable tissues, that
from the sun expands and concentrates
them. No stoker should visit his furnace
without knowing the temperature of his
house, the temperature, of the external
atmosphere, the direction of the wind,
and the changes that have taken place
in a certain number of hours, and thence
calculate what will be the most likely
to happen. The minimum tempera-
ture should never be exceeded by fire-
heat during the night. More than suf-
ficient is not only waste, the plants are
drawn and dried, while less advantage
can be taken of the glorious light arid
heat which conies from the sun. For
dispersing damps, &c.,use a brisk little
j fire during the day and allow it to go
; out. In very dull, close weather in win-
j ter, such a fire often, if even for an