guides, who wanted to strike for prepayment, but on my going
on without them they came on. Guides quite useless, knew no
path. For 2h hours fairly open country, but numberless very
steep ravines to cross; very hard for porters. Halted 8.30,
opposite tall, conical, conspicuous hill. Marched again 9.15,
now into very thick thorn bush, endless cutting, very slow
progress, guides leading us in most erratic way. Arrived at river ;
not till 1.30 (? Guaso Nagur, Dundas), reached it half a mile
from junction with Tana, thirty yards wide, and deep and strong.
Guides wanted to take us far west to ford ; eventually found
ford at junction itself, waist deep, but very strong current ;
camped on opposite hill at 4.30 P.M. Cook lit grass fire; some
danger and trouble. Aneroid, 2750.
lQth Sept., Saturday. ā Tana; junction of? Guaso Nagur?
Started 6. Very slow cutting through thorn bush ; reached top
of lava cap at 8. Mbe guides refused to come on from camp,
saying they were on bad terms with Wathaka. On top of cap
met a lot of Wathaka, all friendly, led us (8.30) clown hill on
W. side, and for 2h hours N. by N.E. by good roads, and camped
by Tana at 11. Good deal of cultivation, harvest just gathered.
Country very dry ; marks of many goats and cattle.
Wathaka finer and bigger men than Mbe people ; armed with
bows, arrows, and a few spears and painted shields ; wear beads
of all sorts, especially pink ; iron chain, and ivory rings in ears.
Split ears very wide. Wathaka saw our big bush fire of last
night ; thought it was war, and were all on the watch, ā cattle
all driven up to hills.
Very hot, 97Ā° in tents.
Natives very slow in bringing food, only a few came into
camp late in the afternoon, could only buy one bag full (50
One Mkamba man here ; says he saw me at Machakos on the
way up to Uganda ; tried to engage him as guide to Korokoro
Mt. Krupp bears about 37Ā°, fine bold mountain. "Pelly
range " visible due north. The Wathaka mountains bold volcanic
formation, but not so high as Mumoni's, opposite river, and now
S.E. of us. Apparently more cultivation on right bank of river.
286 THE MISSION TO UGANDA
Many natives crossed just below camp, but bad to swim part of
way, no canoes at all.
Men caught plenty of good fish, both scaled and silurus.
llth Sept., Sunday. ā Tana. Watbaka country. Guide refused
to accompany ; said he was afraid. Marched G. Following river,
clear path, lots of cultivation, crops all in. Did not see a single
native. Camped 9, about half a mile short of junction of " Guaso
Niro," or " Mt. Tsombiso " (Dundas), just opposite Grand Falls
of Tana. Falls about sixty feet in four branches, over rocks, and
overhanging shady trees, very picturesque and striking. Found
good new bridge over " Guaso Niro " ; followed fair path for
two miles beyond, then it ceased.
No natives came near camp all day ; can't understand why
they won't bring food for sale. At 10 A.M. sent on Bunduki
and Mfaume, each with six men and guns, and beads, and bags,
to go to villages and buy.
7 P.M. Headmen returned ; Mfaume with 2i full loads, and
Bunduki with less than a quarter load ! Both report natives all run
away, frightened by European. Aneroid, 2620.
18th Sept., Monday. ā Tana. "Watbaka; Grand Falls. Sent
out Bau and Mfaume at 6 A.M. with men to buy food. He
went far and to many villages, and succeeded in buying about
eight or nine loads of mahindi, metamma, and kunde. Natives
still refuse to come near camp ; say they are afraid, as they were
ill-treated by a European before. Can't find out when or by
Gave three days' rations to men in beads, and told them to
go and buy in villages.
We have by the evening three days' rations bought by men
themselves, and three days' given out in grain, and ten bags =
five days = in all eleven days.
In morning went forward for some two or three miles, path
for 1 h miles, a lot of clearing, then path ceased ; thorn bush,
but not so dense as above Mbe. Paver goes E. nearly in deep
On right bank all open and cultivated as far ahead as we can
see. Tried to find ford or place for bridge below falls, but failed ;
decided to stick to left bank and cut through. Saw water-
THE GRAND FALLS 2S7
buck and small antelope. Shot ten guinea-fowl near camp.
F. R got two. Plenty of fish caught by men.
18th Sept., Tuesday. ā Tana. Grand Falls. Started 6. Crossed
" ? Guaso Niro " by fair native bridge of branches from rock
to rock across rapids, then turned right to bank of Tana.
Followed fair native path for nearly two hours, all through
pretty thick bush, though fairly extensive clearings in first half
hour. Path had evidently been cut either by natives or by a
previous caravan. Halt 8.30 to 9. At 9 marched again ; no
path except few game tracks, very thick bush and steep hills,
and very slow progress, about one mile between 9.30 and 11 !
From 11 to 12 found clear room alongside of water in river
bed, but deep sand and often bad rock work. At 12.15 found
good open place and camped, about nine miles. Lot of natives
on opposite bank with many goats and cattle, tried to buy milk
goats, but neither our men nor natives would swim across.
Water in Tana seems very much less than above falls,
although it has taken in three big rivers ! Very hot, thermo-
meter 99Ā° in tents 4 P.M. One man missing, carrying mess
box, sent back to halting-place, no signs. Men caught many
fish. Aneroid, 2550.
20th Sept., Wednesday. ā Tana. Nine miles from Grand Falls.
Missing man did not appear ; he was a professional deserter,
started in chain gang from Mombasa, deserted in Usoga, and
was brought back by natives. He has all our flour for mess,
and a box containing looking-glasses, butcher-knives, and some
small beads and a lot of matches ; the latter a serious loss.
Marched 6. Along river bed, alternately deep sand and
scrambling over huge rocks ; went fairly well to 8.45 ā about
five miles. Halt opposite high conical peak on right bank, very
Marched again 9.30; for some way in river bed, then had to
leave it and cut through dense thorn, very slow, but from 1 1 to
12 got on better. Halt 12, near river opposite rapids, just S.
and close to two conical high rock hills about half a mile
back from left bank; about ten miles in 5h hours' actual
Very hot marching ; thermometer 95Ā° in tents 4 P.M.
Shot two geese on road, and ten blue vulturine guinea-fowl,
288 THE MISSION TO UGANDA
afternoon ; beautiful birds, with bare head, no tuft, and blue
breast. Aneroid, 2490.
21st Sept., Thursday. ā Tana. Gneiss conical hill. Started
5.40 and marched to 8.20. A good deal of bush cutting, bad
thorns, and climbing rocky hills, with occasional comparatively
open places near river, about five miles in two hours forty
minutes. On again 9 to 12.15. At first clear going, and got
ahead well, then more bush cutting and rock work. At 11.10
crossed Swahili caravan road, marks of camps at ford.
Ford just below small rapids on and off island ; found no "falls
forty feet " as stated by Dundas, fall of perhaps four feet in all !
After ford river goes S. one mile, and then nearly due N. for
about three miles. Bush and rocky hills for half an hour, then
clear path near river. Camped at 12.15; actual marching six
hours (excluding halt).
Hobley's map marks none of the chief hills and landmarks,
nor any of the important river bends. Distance actually walked
at least thirteen miles.
Afternoon F. R. walked on some distance, but saw no sign
of the tributary stream marked by Hobley as falling into Tana
three miles from road.
Lovely moonlight night by river, hippos snorting, baboons
barking, and two lions grunting, all close to camp. Aneroid,
22nd Sept., Friday. ā Started 5.30. Fairly clear of thorn, and
made good progress; reached tributary from N. at 6.40, about
twenty yards Avide, but only two deep. This makes it quite
five miles (or six by river) from Swahili road. River running
pretty steadily N.E. and N.N.E. ; big bend south shown by
Dundas doesn't exist.
Halt 8.15 to 9; then along fairly open ground in bush
country to series of rocky hills, where river runs very narrow
and quick. At 11.30 reached second tributary from N., 20
yards wide, lh feet deep; 3h hours' good walking, or at least
nine miles from first tributary. Just before junction Tana gets
very wide again, and after junction turns E. by S.E. Camped
just beyond mouth of tributary, 11.45.
Afternoon, went ahead some three miles, found river goes
S.E. by S.S.E. for two miles, and then sharp turn N.E. Can
cut off big corner. Flat country, much more open. Saw big
fire N.E. about three miles off, probably Wanderobbo.
Country full of little Kirk gazelle ; shot three ; saw a Clarkii,
also two waterbuck, and red antelope as big as a Grantii.
23rd Sept., Saturday. ā Tana, second tributary after great
falls. Started 5.50. Marched E. on rising sun ; fairly open,
but certain amount of bush cutting ; river went away several
miles south. After three hours' good marching due E., and at
the end a little S. of E., struck river again at 9 ; halt to 9.40.
Getting hot, and men all very thirsty. By this cut saved several
miles of walking.
9.40. ā Marched again along river N.N.E. and N.E. by E.N.E.,
over flat country with comparatively open glades. At 10.15
country became rocky, with small steep hills, and river runs
between steep banks and very narrow. At 10.30 river divided,
small island, and falls some ten to twenty feet in series of small
falls and rapids.
At 1 1 came suddenly on Mackenzie river running in from
N.W. between steep banks, and falls of some thirty feet, but at
mouth easy ford only two feet deep. Camped 200 yards beyond
mouth of Mackenzie river. Shot on road three KirJcii, two
partridges. Afternoon, two Kirkii.
Afternoon, went on, found river goes S. of E., then nearly N.
for two miles, then sharp turn due E. Got good view ahead
over large plain covered with bush, and two bare hills prominent
about twenty miles off, bearing 140Ā° (S.E.).
First willow-tree on river bank opposite my tent. Hippos
in shoals during march, sometimes quite out of water, also many
baboons. Aneroid, 2090.
2 ith Sept., Sunday. ā Mackenzie river. Started 5.50. Marched
E. Cut off good corner of river, struck it again after two miles
of rough rock and thorn bush, good deal of cutting ; then river
makes very sharp turn from N. to S.E. Kough, rocky, and
thorny going for three miles, then get to depression about one
mile wide and two miles long, semicircular, enclosed by cliffs,
filled with very thick green bush and jungle, but clear at edges.
I went on shooting round edge, perfectly clear, but F. E. led
caravan through thickest part. Halt 8.30 to 9; then fairly
2QO THE MISSION TO UGANDA
clear plain with scattered thorns for five miles, and halt at
12.15, thick helt of dom palms along river. Shot on road two
Kir/di, one hog. Saw giraffe. F. R. saw rhino.
Afternoon, went straight inland, fairly open country, with
scattered hush ; shot three mpallah and one hig partridge.
25th Sept., Monday. ā Tana plain, five miles from bushy de-
pression. Started 5.50. For a mile or two good going and clear,
then long succession of small, steep, rocky hills with deep gullies,
all covered with thick thorn and broken gneiss and quartz, and
At 8.30. river turns very sharp from N. to E. Halted till
9. From that corner river very broad and fine, willows in
many places on banks, and dom palms. At 9.45 arrived at
Salt river, about eight yards wide, clear sweet water ! then
more small hills and stones till 11.15. Camped in dry river
bed, about three miles from Salt river. Shot at Salt river one
Afternoon, went long way in bush ; saw four rhinos together
and one giraffe, did not get a shot ; got two partridges. Aneroid,
26th Sept., Tuesday. ā Tana, three miles below Salt river, in
torrent bed. Started 5.40. Marched through bushy country,
but along clear path at good three miles an hour till 8.20, first
going S.E. for some four miles, then N". and N.N.E. for three
miles. Did good seven miles before halt.
Started again 8.50. Still good path, marks of cutting by
Chanler or other caravan; marched S.S.E. past long rapids
(marked " no falls " by Hobley), then S.E. for three miles, good
pace up till 11.15; camped in clear place. Pink prominent
gneiss peaks just opposite, bearing about 170Ā°. Marched at
least fifteen miles, but by map only nine.
Afternoon, walked long way through thorn bush, seeing
nothing ; returned along broad bed of a river ; saw three giraffes
(shot at one), a Walleri, and some waterbuck, but all in bush ;
only got one Kirldi. Aneroid, 1900.
21th Sept., Wednesday. ā Tana, opposite pink gneiss hills, near
dry river. Full moon. Having ordered drum to sound early,
they woke me at 3. 1 5 to ask if it was time !
Started 5.30. Marched fast and well for three hours along
fair path by river. Halt 8.30 to 9.10 at falls (Princess Louise,
according to Dundas ; Hoffman, Falls of Peters, and Hargazo of
natives) ; not really falls at all, only succession of rapids for
about three miles, full of wooded islands. On again 9.10 to
11.10; general direction S.E. Camped just beyond dry river.
Shot one blue guinea-fowl ; saw two JValleri.
Afternoon, went shooting, got into dry swamp, very thick
green bush, beyond that open country, small gravel hills. No
game whatever, but a few Kirkii (shot two) and sand grouse.
Native Korokoro came into camp, could get nothing out of him,
seemed rather off his head. Aneroid, 1780.
28th Sept., Thursday. ā Tana. Started 5.25. Marched well
away from river, over clear, rolling gravel; small hills. At 8
wanted to get to water for halt, but had to struggle through high
grass of dry swamp. Halt 8.15 to 8.45 ; then Wadi Bunduki said
he knew road, led us long way inland, and after two hours con-
fessed he must have passed Hameye ! Went straight to river
and camped ; sent Bunduki back to Hameye for food, canoes, and
natives ; saw many native game traps.
Afternoon, went out 3 to 6 P.M. ; walked long way, saw hardly
anything. F. R. saw no game at all. I shot two francolin.
Sent out "Wadi Bunduki to find Hameye. He returned sun-
set, reporting Hameye deserted ; saw only two small shambas on
opposite bank. Aneroid, 1750.
29th Sept., Friday. ā Started 5.45, and marched chiefly S.E.
through rather thick bush ; had to cut our way often. After
two and a half hours (six miles) halted to 9, and at 9.30
came on Company's deserted station of Balarti ; good boma, and
good house, which we occupied. No signs of natives, but people
(probably our canoe men) had been recently living here.
Passed many game traps made of nooses of good strong rope
fixed to a bent bough, which springs back ; also many native
tracks. Sent Bau off at 10 down river with thirty men;
returned 1.30, reporting no natives, nor shambas, but many
game snares and bee-hives, and fresh native tracks.
Sent Capt. Mahomed and all soldiers on with Wadi Bunduki
down river to look for natives, and seize canoes, and meet us to-
morrow. This place delightful situation on river.
2Q2 THE MISSION TO UGANDA
Afternoon shooting 3 to 6.30 ; very hot at first, bushy country
with open glades ; walked many miles, saw only two very
distant Wallcri ; coming home shot waterbuck doe ; very useful,
as men's posho all finished. Aneroid, 1700.
30th Sept., Saturday. ā Balarti. Started 5.30, rather dark.
After some searching found good human path leading E. and then
N.E. ; followed it till 7.30, when we met our askaris and Banduki
(sent on yesterday), who reported having found an island full of
ripe mahindi, but no huts, nor canoes, nor inhabitants. Marched
to bank opposite this island and camped, sending all men over
to pick mahindi. Lots of sand grouse in flocks. Shot two.
Men collected six days' food each in mahindi from island.
W. Bunduki discovered small dug-out canoe ; in this Bau and he
visited larger island ; found cultivation (mahindi), but no inhabit-
ants or canoes ; sent men up and down river for considerable
distance ; they found one or two huts deserted some three weeks
or month ago, but not a sign of man or canoes.
During day Ave came upon several more noose rope game
traps, which seem to show near presence of people. We took
all the ropes, which are really good and well made.
Men all in good spirits to-day, and all over-eating themselves.
Hutchisson sick, complains again of pain in side, says he had
another cold bath yesterday, although I and F. R. had especially
told him that this was extreme folly.
Went shooting at 4, so did Frank ; hopeless country, not a
sign of game, except few very wild Walleri, never seen within
200 yards, and always off like wind. Thin thorn bush, and dry,
bare ground everywhere, bleak, ugly, desolate, inhospitable,
with fringe of bush and willows and dried swamp near river.
Fresh elephant tracks everywhere, and fair number of giraffe
tracks. No signs of buffalo here, though about Hargazo Falls
their tracks were numerous. Cooler day, cloudy.
1st Oct., Sunday. ā Tana, about 4 J miles below Balarti, above
Bokore. Hutchisson complains of being very tired and feeling
pain ; offered him choice, and he elected to go in canoe with
Wadi Baraka ; told them to start late and drift slowly down,
keeping near left bank, that we should not go more than eight
miles, and that they were to try and get hold of natives and
OBTAINING CANOES 293
We started 6. Had very difficult march over very rough
ground, cutting through thick bush, and struggling through dried
swamps, cut up everywhere by deep elephant track, sometimes
three feet deep. In avoiding swamps we had to go some three
miles from river, and at 10.30 began to cut our way back to it,
very thick and hard work. At last struck river 11.30.
With much difficulty got into communication with some
natives in a canoe, and soon afterwards others came (Wa-koro-
koro). Sent them off to get canoes. Shot on road one har-
Mzee Bonair, Galla chief, and some men came to camp ; long
shauri about canoes, etc. They say Gallas have no canoes, but
at last undertook to send to all Korokoro people to bring canoes
here for us to buy. They say our canoes from coast waited two
months at Balarti, and only went twenty days ago. Our missing
men three days ahead of us. Aneroid, 1650.
2nd Oct., Monday. ā Tana, on sand-bank above Bokore.
Plenty mosquitoes at night ; waiting all day for promised
canoes, but none came. A few came with food for sale.
Mzee Bonair sent to say he would send canoes by evening,
but none arrived ; said to be because the old man has fever.
Another very windy and dusty night on this beastly sand-
bank, only six inches above the water, and impenetrable jungle
3rd Oct., Tuesday. ā Tana. Sand-bank. Captured a canoe at
6.30 A.M., and sent M. Bau to see Mzee Bonair, with message
that unless all thirty canoes appeared by mid-day I should have
to take them by force.
At 11 A.M. Mzee B. appeared, ill with fever, with eleven
canoes, of which seven very small. Gave him one jora (7i dots)
of amerikani and five rings of copper wire. Tied canoes side by
side in pairs ; got all tent loads and mess loads, selves, boys, and
tent askaris into them, with two natives in each to punt.
Started 1 P.M. (only two hours after first arrival of canoes), and
went quickly down stream for about one mile, landed on left or
south bank, at Chanler's camp ; nice open camp on good clear
ground, well above river, just opposite Mzee Bonair's place on
island. Sent canoes back for second half of caravan, who all
arrived by 3. Shooting afternoon, promisingdooking country,
294 THE MISSION TO UGANDA
but absolutely no game seen, except Kirkii, etc. Lost road
back to camp.
ith Oct., Wednesday. ā Left Rhodes in charge of canoes ; put
all loads in canoes and Hutchisson, all sick, and about three
men in each pair ; sent Mahomed Bau with F. R.'s party.
Started myself with all rest of men by land to walk and try
to effect a junction at camp. Impossible to keep near river, so
struck in, found fairly open thorn bush and bare country ;
steered S.E. and then E., back to river, which we struck at
11.30; fired many guns, no signs of boat party.
At 2.30 started back with five men to look for others.
After two hours' very bad going near river, signal gun answered
up stream, and soon after Bau appeared in canoe. Reports
F. R. in camp very long way back, so we got in his canoes and
came back to our men ; arrived 6. Secured five canoes on way
Bivouacked on bed of palm leaves, but mosquitoes bad. On
march saw no game at all, all day !
5 th October, Thursday. ā Tana. Bivouac above Sandi's. Rather
bad night, and mosquitoes, but plenty to eat with beef sent by
F. R., and beans and mahindi from the men. During morning
we secured eight more canoes, bringing total up to thirty in all.
Tied all two and two together. At 10.30 Rhodes and party
He says he sent Ramadan out with one porter, both with
guns (Ramadan with my Martini), to look for me ; neither has
appeared. Wadi Bunduki also lost one of his men, and returned,
saying he can't find him. Started again 11, and went down
stream till 1, and camped. On arrival Bau reported seven men
refused to come in canoes, and started to walk ; now they have
Body of one porter found close to island opposite camp, with
throat cut and mutilated, evidently killed while looting. Sent
out search parties, but no signs of any of missing men. This
is too disheartening. We must stay here to-morrow to give
Ramadan a chance, and send canoes up and down stream.
Qth October, Friday. ā Tana, below Baboia. Sent canoes up
and down river to look for Ramadan and other men. The
disobedient porters were found a mile back, surrounded by
TRAVELLING IN CANOES 295
natives and in a blue funk, and brought back to camp, when
I ordered them to have their hands tied and kept so all day, till
I should pronounce their punishment. No signs of Ramadan,
though a shot heard inland, answered by me 11.30, and men at
once sent in to fire two more shots, but there was no further
Two natives came in; complained of their canoes having been
taken this morning ; on inquiring found it true, so gave them
their canoes back, and promised big reward if they found
Ramadan. They said he had passed Sadi Eamatha's, but
undertook to go and bring him to see me, also to bring food,
etc, for sale, but they did nothing of the sort.
In afternoon punished deserters, cut pay from Uganda, and
to be bound from reaching camp to sunset every day for a week.
Apportioned all men to their canoes. No meat left, nothing
shot, hard up !
7th October, Saturday. ā Same camp, below Baboia. No signs
of missing men, no use waiting longer, so started in canoes at G,
and went down stream till 2 P.M. Only two accidents, and
nothing lost ; stream very tortuous, and very full of sunken
snags and trees ; banks lined with trees and forest all the way.
At 2 camped on sand-bank on right bank. Went to shoot at 4 ;
struggled for an hour through dense bush ; gave it up and came
Shot on road two large waders of the stork kind ; one of
them not at all bad to eat, especially as we had nothing else !
8th October, Sunday. ā Tana. Forest between AVapokomo and
Korokoro. Started 5.45, all together ; then a very difficult
piece of navigation ; sharp bends in river; quite full of countless
half-sunk trees and snags, and strong current ; many canoes got
foul of trees. Rhodes and Hutchisson both got foul of trees,
and had to land and mend canoes.
Thick forest on both banks all the way, and many very
difficult and dangerous parts. Passed a few huts and small
patches of rice at various intervals. Saw three Gallas, who
said, " Kimabombe in three days' journey " ; probably untrue.
After seven hours' good paddling camped at 1 on sand-bank,
north bank. Pitched tents in small clearing in forest. Caravan
all in by 3.30. Shot four-guinea fowl drinking by water.
296 THE MISSION TO UGANDA
9th October, Monday. ā Started 5.50. River became more open;
fewer trees and snags, and broader and longer reaches. At 9.30
in a clear part of the river ; Tembo and Wadi Baraka in charge
of canoes with all my luggage ; ran into a large conspicuous tree
trunk standing quite by itself in mid-stream, with heaps of room
all round it ! canoes capsized, and all my things went into river
and sank ; had to camp there, and by diving recovered all boxes,