9 ells of flat silk braid for the trimming of the polonaise and
the waistcoat, at 12 livres for the one, etc 58'-
November, 1774. For Zemord. For having made a frock-coat
and waistcoat of English broadcloth, lined with braid to suit, the
button-holes made of the same and the breeches in like
fashion !2/.
April, 1775. For Zemord. For having made a complete dress-
coat, lined with gold lace, in the English fashion and two pairs of
breeches I5'
1 In this account there are particulars of a suit of clothes sup-
plied to M. Desontaines, the Comtesse du Barry's secretary.
342
Madame D\i Barry
Furnished 3 yards of green Saxony for the dress-coat, waist-
coat, and breeches, at 26 livres each 78/.
8 ells of gold lace for lining the dress-coat and waistcoat, weigh-
ing 3 ounces 7 gross, at u livres 42/. I2S. 6d.
In Carlier's other accounts, preserved in the library of the City
of Versailles, M. le Roi has again turned out for Zamore:
A hussar's costume, white, with silver lace, coat, breeches, cap
and stout silk buskins, silver buttons, belt, and little sabre.
A plume on the cap, with tufts and spangles.
A hussar's costume of cherry velvet with silver lace, the belt and
the scabbard of the little sabre in velvet of the same colour.
Another costume, flesh-coloured, plume and tuft on the cap of
the same colour.
Another of rose-coloured ribbed material trimmed with silver.
Another of stuff of silver and rose-colour.
Another of white taffeta trimmed with silver.
A sailor's costume of Silesian dimity, cap and breeches of dimity,
the whole trimmed with silver braid, rose-coloured silk ribbons in
the cap, belt of taffeta with silver fringes.
This tailor's accounts, these accounts of Carlier, are, in reality,
full of historic revelations. Thus we see how the priest Gomard
de Vaubernier, who had held out his brother as the father of
" La Lange," and who was about to have the forged birth-certificate
fabricated for the marriage, was dressed at the Favourite's expense
in order that he might take the necessary steps for this purpose in
proper attire. In the month of March, 1768, Carlier got an order
for a complete suit of black cloth and two pairs of breeches 1 for
the Abbe, and in the month of August, still for the Abbe, a frock-
<;oat of maroon-coloured barracan with gold buttons, a coat, waist-
coat, and breeches of Lille camlet, a short cassock of cloth and a
cloak of Saint Maur nap frock coat, coat, cassock, and cloak having
been certainly all worn by Gomard de Vaubernier at the ceremony
of the marriage of " La Lange " with Guillaume du Barry, which
took place in the parish-church of Saint Laurent on the ist of
September, 1768.
1 " Bulletin of the Library of the City of Versailles." (Article of
M. le Roi.) No. in, 1872.
343
Madame D\i Barry
These accounts of Carlier present to our view all the Favourite's
staff of servants in their full-dress and their undress livery.
Madame du Barry had eight valets Degle, Pellier, Fremont,
Bellecour, Bourguignon, Augustin, Luxembourg, and Paris. She
had eight footmen Noel, Morin, Desmoulins, Francois, Raclot,
Deflandre, La France, and fitienne.
The full-dress livery consisted of a coat of scarlet cloth with gold
lace and lined with white Neapolitan stuff on the skirts, the front
of the coat and the sleeves adorned with braid and puffed out with
fringes, breeches and scarlet waistcoat with gold buttons, garters of
gold braid, the ends and the buckles of the breeches trimmed with
gold.
For the undress livery, the coat was of chamois cloth with gold
lace, waistcoat and breeches of chamois silk with silver buttons.
The garters under the breeches, as well as the ends and the buckles,
were of silver.
In bad weather, the lackeys wore over their livery a great-coat
of grey cloth.
There were two coachmen Comtois and Mazieres. Their livery
was of sky-blue cloth with chamois waistcoats and silver but-
tons.
The outriders who went in front of her carriage were Delorme,
Tavernier, and Morlot. Their uniform was of blue cloth slashed
with silver at all the seams and with silver-laced buttonholes.
The postilions Madame du Barry always driving with four
horses were named Lajeunesse, Durand, and Mathurin. They
wore blue cloth waistcoats with silver lace like the button-holes.
Two chair-bearers, then required when taking an outing in the
Park or paying visits, wore a livery of scarlet cloth with silver lace.
Five grooms, and two assistant grooms, in blue livery with gold
lace, completed the equipage.
Besides these, a steward, a butler, two wardrobe attendants, a
Swiss and two gardeners, all wearing blue livery with silver lace,
formed the male portion of the servants of the King's mistress. 1
1 " Bulletins of the Library of the City of Versailles." (M. le Roi's
Article), No. in, 1872.
344
Madame Du Barry
MEMORANDUM OF FURNITURE EMBROIDERED FOR THE COMTESSE DU BARRY
BY TRIPPERET, MERCHANT AND EMBROIDERER TO THE KING NEAR THE
" NOUVELLES CATHOLIQUES," COMMENCED IN THE MONTH OF SEP-
TEMBER, 1769.
Twelve large armchairs of yellow Indian silk, embroidered
with edgings of silk flowers, shaded -naturally according to the
picture, in the midst of which edging there is for each a medallion
on a white ground, representing different landscapes and figures
also in accordance with the picture, embroidered in shaded and
sheeny silk, which medallion is held up by a beautiful knot of
striped ribbon; the arms of the said armchairs embroidered also
with edgings and medallions, at 60 livres 7,20O/.
Ottoman embroidered in the same way with six large medallions
representing " The Reapers " 2,400/.
Firescreen in the same style 45of.
MADAME DU BARRY'S BILL FOR WORK DONE AND DELIVERED BY ME,
DAVAUX, EMBROIDERER, RUE SAINT-DENIS.
January, 1770. Delivered a full-dress robe and the petticoat and
corset and the stomacher of silver tissue, embroidered with gold
and silver spangles and gold network, and patches of colour and
shaded silk with all kind of nosegays. Price arranged with the
Comtesse io,6oof.
October, 1770. Delivered an armchair on a white background with
a garland of roses embroidered in shaded silk for 432 J.
Besides, for having paid to M. de Saint-Aubin for the same arm-
chair 6o/.
Besides, for having paid to M. de Saint-Aubin for the design of
the full-dress robe 200/.
April, 1774. Delivered a pair of stockings, the four corners em-
broidered in gold and silver, small and large spangles of bright
colour 48^.
AMOUNT DUE FOR ARTICLES SUPPLIED AND FOR THE REPAIR OF MADAME
DU BARRY'S WATCH BY THE SAID SIEUR LEPAUTE.
For the price of a watch adorned with diamonds, sold by the
said Sieur to the said Lady, the sum of five thousand four hundred
livres 5.400/.
345
Madame D\i Barry
And for repairs to the watch of enamelled gold belonging to the
same lady, according to the memorandum of said Sieur of June 7th,
1774 96/.
LIST OF GOODS WHICH FONTAINES, DEALER IN FOREIGN STUFFS AT The
King's Laurel, HAS HAD THE HONOUR OF FURNISHING FOR THE
SERVICE OF MADAME DU BARRY.
December 6th, 1769. 1,500 flowers of Indian silk, embroidered
and shaded at the rate of 20 sous each, great and small indiscrimi-
nately i,50o.
A snuff box garnished with " burgos " of an oval shape 576/.
A pin case of arborized agate, garnished with gold 2401.
A ring of arborized agate, surrounded with brilliants 48o/.
January 2nd. 15 coffee-napkins of Indian dimity, at the rate of
15 livres each 2251. 1
For the cylinder 61 >
MEMORANDUM OF BINDINGS MADE FOR THE COMTESSE DU BARRY BY
VENTE., BOOKBINDER, PARIS.
March 3ist, 1774. Bound six quarto volumes in red morocco with
strings and edgings in gold, with the arms of the Comtesse, which
volumes contained the portraits and an extract from the lives of
celebrated men of every sort, at 15 livres the volume QO/.
Manufactory of Stores.
Delivered to the Comtesse du Barry by the Manufactory of porce-
lain to the King during the years 1771, '72, '73 and '74.
Viz.:
January 15th and January 30th, 1771. 25 children in biscuit
fashion, at 3O/. each 750/.
8 horns of plenty at 15 livres I20/.
I vase with garlands 48/.
i basket 3 6/.
NOTE. All the articles of sculpture and of biscuit-work have been
ordered by the Sieur Bonneval, Madame du Barry's chef, who
approved of them and had them placed on the table at dessert.
August 29th, 1771. A complete service with little roses and gar-
lands, composed of 145 plates at 42 livres, 8 salad-bowls at 96 livres,
346
Madame Dvi Barry
4 lozenged baskets at 216 Hvres, 2 sugar-bowls at 120 livres, 2
butter-coolers at 96 livres, 2 mustard-pots at 78 livres, 2 cheese-bowls
at 120 livres, 12 salt-cellars in three parts at 48 livres, 4 olio-pots
and earthen jars at 600 livres, i punch-bowl and cover at 600 livres,
4 saucers at 54 livres, 36 pails for glasses at 60 livres, 4 pails for
liqueurs at 120 livres, 2 oval pails for liqueurs at 168 livres, 4 pails
for half-bottles at 156 livres, 8 pails for bottles at 216 livres, 4
crenelated pails at 240 livres, and 2 pails for ice at 252 livres,
amounting to 21,438*.
NOTE: This must be the service which the Comtesse was in the
habit of using at her large suppers. It had, so it was said, served
to replace the one which had been previously supplied to her by
the manufactory and which she had sold to the Sieur Bufau for*
England.
October 7th, 1771. I dejeuner service of lapis l6o/.
December, 1771. 6 biscuit-work services, one of which was for
the Dauphiness, at 144 livres 864/.
i water-jug and basin I26/.
1 tobacco-jar 27?.
2 pomatum-pots 20/.
i chamber-pot 42/.
Year 1772.
February 20th. i stewed fruit-dish of sky-blue colour with
flowers 54/.
March 30th. i goblet and saucer 6o/.
May I3th. 2 busts of Madame du Barry at 144 livres.... 288J,
October 5th. I pannier, green and gold I20/.
i goblet and saucer, purple and gold 6o/.
December. i olio-pot and ornamental tray 6oo/.
i mosaic dejeuner-service I44/.
I jug without basin 42/.
i milk jug 30*.
i " love-grinder " * g6/.
"Amour remouleur." Possibly some cosmetic or hygienic face
appliance. TRANSLATOR.
347
Madame D\i Barry
Year 1773.
January 26th. 2 very beautiful basins of stony material at 360
livres 720/.
February 22. 2 Verdun basins with garlands of flowers at 240
livres 48o/.
i Cottrteille basin with birds 240*.
NOTE: These basins for putting in flowers were ordered by the
Comtesse from designs chosen by her; and she is not ignorant of the
number of them which perished in the fire before succeeding with
those which have been delivered her.
1 eye-sponge with gold fillets 4/.
March 2nd. Delivered to M. Lebanc, on behalf of the Comtesse, 1
i bust after Lemoine I44/.
April 28th. Brought to Luciennes a Brie cheese tray, white in
colour 24/.
June 1 7th. Group representing the scene of the " Spanish Con-
versation " 432/.
2 groups at the sides 384^.
4 accessory figures 288/.
July 6th. 2 defective chestnut-dishes at 96 livres ig2l.
July 7th. I Courteille dejeuner of Chinese design 6oo/.
NOTE : This article ordered, tray and Chinese figures, by the
Comtesse, and delivered to herself, is of the most exquisite work-
manship. It cost two months and a half of work to the best
painter of the manufactory.
1 Baron Ch. Davillier informs us, in his pamphlet " Madame du
Barry's Sevres Porcelains," that the denominations of Verdun and
of Courteille came from the names of a shareholder and an admin-
istrator of Versailles, who, as much as the artists, gave a name
to a new form or a new decoration. There are the Duplessis vases,
the Bachelier vases, the Falconet, the Boizot, etc. M. Davillier also
points out the existence in the Museum of Sevres of a plate exe-
cuted for Madame du Barry in 1788. The edge is adorned with
ten loves holding garlands of flowers and tambourines on which
may be read the initials D, B. In the centre is represented Folly
shaking her bells.
348
Madame D\i Barry
August 2Qth. A group of Boizot: Zephyr and Flora 360*.
Love and Friendship 360^.
August 31 st Chinese service composed of 10 plates with figures
from pictures and Chinese miniatures, 4 shell stewed fruit-dishes,
i sugar-bowl, i triangular tray, three cups for ices, 2 pails for
half-bottles, 2 pails for bottles, i oval basket, amounting to. . 3,8o4/.
NOTE : This service was delivered at Luciennes the day the King
supped there. The pictures are as precious, and by the same painter,
as the Chinese dejeuner above-mentioned.
December. i chocolate-goblet and garland 84/.
I goblet with a portrait on a gold background and saucer. . p67.
NOTE. Presents made at Versailles by Madame to various per-
sons as in preceding years.
December. i service of roses and foliage composed of 36 plates,
II stewed fruit dishes, 4 salad-bowls, 2 pails for bottles, etc., with
a supplement of 12 plates etc. delivered on March I4th, the whole
amounting to 4,856/.
NOTE. The Comtesse du Barry made a present of this service to
the Marquis du Barry at the time of the Porcelain Exhibition at.
Versailles.
Year 1774.
January 21 st. i goblet and saucer with medallion of the
King 144^
April 1 3th. Brought to Belle vue i large teapot, ribbons, verses,
and hatchings of gold and carmine 661.
The accounts rise in 1771 to 27,732 livres ; in 1772 to 2,760 livres ;
in 1773 to 15,426 livres; in 1774 to 3,101 livres; total, 49>oi9 livres,
on which sum had been paid 22,000 livres.
349
Madame D\J Barry
LIST OF FOUR PIECES OF TAPESTRY DEALING WITH THE SUBJECT OF THE
LOVES OF THE GODS FROM THE PICTURES OF MM. VANLOO, BOUCHER,
PIERRE AND VIEN, MADE IN THE MOST EXCELLENT STYLE OF WEAVING
IN THE GOBELINS MANUFACTORY FOR THE COMTESSE DU BARRY FROM
MEASURES GIVEN BY M. LE DOUX, ARCHITECT, WHICH PIECES WERE TO
BE EXECUTED BY THE SIEURS COZETTE AND AUDRAN. (iST OF NOVEM-
BER, 1772.)
Carl Vanloo: Neptune and Amimonna, 2 ells, n sticks, 8
tenths 3,554*. M*. 5d.
P ; erre : The Abduction of Euro pa 3,554^. 14^. Sd.
Boucher : Venus and Vulcan 3>554^. 14^. 5d.
Vien : Pluto and Proserpine 3,554^ 14$. $d.
May 2Qth, 1774-
MEMORANDUM OF THE THREE PIECES OF TAPESTRY MADE BY THE SIEUR
COZETTE, CONTRACTOR OF THE ROYAL MANUFACTORY OF GOBELINS, AT
448/. $S. THE ELL SQUARED THE ONE IN THE OTHER ON ACCOUNT OF
THE PIECE REPRESENTING VENUS, WHICH IS EXCEEDINGLY LADEN WITH
FIGURES AND DIFFICULT WORKS, SO AS TO RENDER THE DISBURSEMENT
FOR THE WORKMAN AND THE SILK MATERIALS, OWING TO THE
VARIETY OF TONES, VERY DEAR J FOR THE THREE SAID PIECES THE
SUM OF I2,496/.
By order of the Comtesse given to the workman who worked on
the said pieces 72/.
The Sieur Cozette has the honour to represent that for similar
pieces the late Madame de Pompadour gave him in 1752 as a
reward and honorarium for each piece 50 louis, which makes for
the three 3,6oo/.
The loth of June, 1775.
Venus and Vulcan. Girard, Worker in Tapestry, 87 weeks at 24*. ;
3 additional workers, 9 livres.
Pluto and Proserpine. Ostende, 50 weeks at 18 livres; 2 workers
at 12 livres.
The Abduction of Euro pa. Roby, 33 weeks, with two young
workmen under him ; 36 livres for the three ; next 48 weeks for two.
Given for drink to the workmen the last time Madame du Barry
came to the Gobelins 72/.
350
Madame Dv* Barry
MEMORANDUM OF THE WORKS IN THE GILDING OF FURNITURE DONE FOR
THE COMTESSE DU BARRY, BY CAGNY, AS WELL IN HER APARTMENTS AT
VERSAILLES AS IN HER HOUSE OF LUCIENNES, THE SAID WORKS DONE
BY HER ORDERS IN THE COURSE OF THE YEARS 1769, I77O AND 1 77 1 BY
CAGNY, MERCHANT PAINTER AND GILDER IN PARIS, WHERE HE RESIDES
IN THE RUE DES MENETRIERS.
For Versailles.
The Salon. Twelve large oval armchairs with frames, gilt with
burnished gold. The back with wand cut with an ornament in the
shape of a diamond with laurel leaves and berries ; another wand or-
namented with ribbons in a screw with three pearls threaded through
a very rich bouquet in the middle of the back, with many flow-
ers tied with a ribbon. Acanthus-leaves with their berries. Branches
of olive-leaves, enwreathings and flowerets. Seven garlands of flow-
ers, very rich, with their falls as much in front as on both sides;
four feet fluted each with a dozen flutings, with sunleaves crown-
ing the said flutings, and a piece of rosework turning in each case.
The said armchair prepared, softened with water, repaired with care,
with constraint and precaution to revive the sculpture and enhance
its value afterwards when gilt with strong burnished gold, the most
beautiful gold, estimated with respect to the time of the restorers,
gilders, expenditure and double supply of gold, having regard to
the great richness and delicacy of the ornaments, and the entire
perfection of the articles the sum of 340/.
The eleven other armchairs, similar in every respect, together cost-
ing the sum of 3,740/.
A large sofa with six feet, on the same plan as the arm-
chair I,250/.
Twelve oval chairs and a large chair for the King at 150^. i,8oo/.
A large oval fire-screen 77S/.
Dining-room. Thirty chairs for table and a large chair for the
King at 8o/ 2,400/.
The Bed-room. A large gilt bed with four sides, the pillars in sheaths
adorned with squares forming volutes, with a semi-circular cutting
of folded ribbons surrounding ornaments threaded together, flower-
border, and wand cut in pearls, a gorge, square, and semi-circular
cutting of olive-leaves with their berries, a rosework shaped like a
shamrock on the volute with acanthus-leaves in the lower part, a
35i
Madame Dm Barry-
decoration of rolled flowers and leaves, then another piece of rose-
work revolving in its case, a very rich garland of flowers bearing
volutes enveloping the said pillars, and drooping flowers on each side,
the pillars already mentioned even to the canopy fluted with a
dozen flutings adorned with flower-work interwoven with flower-
like water- jets, branches of leaves emerging from these floral orna-
ments and laurels, winding around the mouldings. Four strong feet
in their sheaths, fluting-work with a screw, laurel-leaves, ovolos,
and square cases with suns in the centre on the two front sides.
The two backs on an eminence, an arched eminence, carved on the
two surfaces, enriched with similar mouldings to the pillars and the
ornaments on the central portions of the bed, very rich intertwin-
ing flowers sustaining two pecking birds, with branches of myrtle
on one side and of olive on the other, together with their berries,
piastres threaded together, ribbons, a wand cut in pearls, ribbons,
and strings. Four very rich cross-beams, each adorned with three
wands, the one in the middle threaded with pearls, split leaves
winding round the surface of the said wand, a square, a flower-
border, another wand in the foreground adorned with pearls; in
the middle of the cross-beams, trophies of love and country life
very rich and with different variations, such as quivers, head-
bands, crowns of olive-leaves, a bow, and branches decked with
all kinds of little flowers.
The top of the bed with a very rich crown ornamented with
mouldings, cut with darts and ovolos, doucine in heart-rays, a great
gorge adorned with twinings of sunlight and flowers in the midst
of the two huge cross-beams, a medallion representing a vase sup-
ported by a trophy of love, garlands of flowers clinging to the
medallion with their drooping; two laurel branches in the shape
of chains and ribbons, four corner-pieces forming chests-of-draw-
ers, branches of poppies green and budding, enriched with mould-
ings of balusters and flower-work all very rich. Within the canopy,
two ovals one over the other adorned with mouldings of archi-
tecture, sustained by four curves in the shape of consoles, with
three faces; adorned with volutes in " collicornes " (sic), acan-
thus-leaves, and shapes of hearts on the mouldings and little
threaded flowerings, cleft-leaves and leaves formed of water on the
doucine, the wand ornamented with pearls and with filleted wedges,
a cord with its greenery and ends in osier entwined over the wand,
352
Madame Dxi Barry
a. tail-piece in the midst of the said summit adorned with a
double piece of flower-work, garnished with berries and water-
flowers, estimated, having regard to its grandeur, richness, and
the delicacy of the ornaments and the carvings, the concentration
and the considerable time lost by the gilders and restorers, the
large expenditure for gold, false cutting, and double staff of persons
employed, at the sum of 5,945^
The seats of the same sort 260!.
Six oval cabriolets for the little library. Two branches of myrtle
tied by a ribbon to the middle of the back, two birds overhead,
each at 290,'.
The Little Gallery. Eighteen gilt chairs and a large one for
the King. The back, trophied with such attributes as War, Music,
Science, Hunting, Love, Fishing, each at I42/.
Two canopies trophied with love, torches of love, vases, crowns,
branches of roses, each at 426*.
For Luciennes.
The Salon. Twenty-five chairs, six of which are gilt. Bands of
flowers, garlands of flowers, cut pearls, fir-cones, on the corners,
acanthus-leaves, arranged in flower-work, the chairs gilt at. . 298/.
The others at 237/.
Two large armchairs, each at i8o/.
A large table-claw with four consoles in a case, a medallion in
the middle, knotted with a ribbon, with a trophy in bas-relief I,OQO/.
The Gallery. Three big table-claws. The medallions in the cen-
tre ornamented with women's heads wearing Roman head-dresses,
each 995/.
Twelve large armchairs ; in the middle of the centre, a rich tro-
phy, some of the group representing Music, others Country Life
and the attributes of the Chase, each at 4QO/.
Thirty-one chairs gilt, at 84/.
Four large sofas with subjects of children and ornaments ana-
logous to the sciences, each at 450?.
A firescreen. Four women's figures holding up the fire-
screen 550/.
The Dining-room. Twenty-five chairs, vinestocks and clusters of
grapes, all kinds of fruit, each at 1 15/_
353 23
Madame D\i Barry
A large gilt frame for the portrait of the Comtesse. 1 Two chil-
dren holding a crown of flowers and with horns of plenty, with
garlands of flowers and olive-branches, two turtle-doves and
branches of roses 2,250!.
Another frame for the portrait of Madame. Two figures at the
base lifting drapery, with a cartel adorned with Madame's ci-
pher 1,575!.
A gilt frame for the portrait of Zamor 135*.
The entire bill mounts up to 90,759 livres.
ARTICLES SUPPLIED TO THE COMTESSE DU BARRY BY ROETTIERS FATHER
AND SON, GOLDSMITHS IN ORDINARY TO THE KING.
The 23rd of September, 1769. Two little chandeliers for the toi-
lette table, adorned with pearls 236*. iSs.
The 20th of January, 1770. Furnished with plate utensils adorned
with pearls and cut into a bend.
10 dozen of plates.
8 oval dishes.
In addition 12 flambeaux with their covers 30,174*.
The 8th of January, 1771. Furnished 4 flambeaux for chandeliers,
very rich and on new models, representing the four elements en-
riched with portions of rams' bodies and laurel- wreaths. . 11,837*.
The 4th of May, 1771. Furnished a milk-pot adorned with gold,
surrounded with garlands of flowers on the circumference, with
the entire coffeepot, the spout adorned with ornamental flutings
and hollow flutings in which are growths of myrtle-leaves, the cover
with projecting godroons is terminated by rods adorned with par-
1 This is the celebrated frame of the large portrait of the Com-
tesse as a Muse, which, having been exhibited at the Salon in 1771
before the picture was placed there, excited the admiration of con-
noisseurs. It is a masterpiece, the " Secret Memoirs "say, of carving
and gilding, the richness and the elegance of which we admire at
the same time. The top is shaded by foliage arranged with great
delicacy, in the midst of which are found two Cupids, one of whom
bends his bow, while the other, who springs forward in front of him,
holds a crown suspended and seems to be awaiting the goddess who
must have placed him there. At the bottom and, as it were, at his
feet are two doves who peck in the most voluptuous fashion. The
frame was selected under No. 40 by the Committee of Arts charged
to make a trio amongst the marvels of Luciennes.
354
Madame Du Barry
sley-leaves which are intertwined. On the upper portion is a group
of roses; the hinge is also much ornamented, as well as the handle,
which sustains the haft and the knob.
Fashioned with the utmost finish and carried to the highest degree
of polish 2,6871.
The i3th of August, 1771. Furnished two olio-pots, trays and
spoons for two services, trays and forks of the richest kind being