Royal Mail xli
Stencil Plate Cutters.
J. F. Hall 600
Stoves and Tinware.
J. W. Brittan xliii
Locke & Montague xxvii
Tay, Brooks & Backns xxviii
Sugar Refinery.
S. F. Sugar Refinery 635
Suspension Bridges.
A. S. Uallidie & Co 619
Tailors.
J. C. Mitchell xix and xxi.x
Truss Makers.
A. Kochler 595
Undertakers.
Nathaniel Gray 615
A. Massey 614
Upholsterers.
F. G. Edwards xxxix
J. McDonald & Co 596
McElwee & Ackerman liv
C. M. Plum 612
Varnishes.
Marx & Hutcr 631
Wagon Grease Manufacturers.
Hucks & Lambert 600
Watches and Jewelry.
Braverman & Levj- front cover
M. Jordan 602
J. McGregor 606
Robert Sherwood ii
G. C. Shrevo & Co front cover
Water Cure.
Empire 638
Water Works.
San Frar.ci.sco W'ater Works xlviii
Spring A'alley Water Works xlix
Windmill Manufacturers.
E. 0. Hunt 6C8
Norcross & Co 630
Wire Workers.
H. T. Graves 618
A. S. Hallidie & Co 619
Wood and Coal.
D. George 632
Wood Measurer.
0. Hudson 621
Wood and Willow-Ware.
Amies & Dallam 594 and 628
Thurnauer St, Ziun 629
Woolen Goods.
Mission Woolen Factory xxxil
S. F. Pioneer 633
HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL REVIEW
OF SA.N FRANCISCO.
Historical Sketch of California.*
As an account of the Metropolis of Cal.
fornia would be incomplete without some al-
lusion to the history of the country, it may,
hercfore, be expedient to give of it, a rapid
dvcteh in this phxce. Half a century after
lie discovery of America by Columbus,
UAN Rodriguez Cabrillo, a Portuguese by
jirth, in the service of Spain, discovered
Upper California, having landed at San
Diego in September, 1542. On the death of
Cabrillo, the voyage was continued by his
Pilot and Lieut. Bartolome Ferrclo, who
made a .^ui ^ â– j .. l..c cou?4t, during which, the entrance to the Bay of San
Francisco is supposed to have been seen by him, when he discovered, what
he considered to bo, the mouth of a great river; there is a pi'obability, there-
fore, that he was the first European who beheld the Golden Gate. In 1579,
Sir Francis Drake visited this coast, having landed a few miles to the north-
ward of San Francisco, at a Bay which still bears his name; being ignorant
of Cabrillo's prior discovery, he called the place New Albion. Francisco Vila
landed here in 1582, and Juan De Fuca in 1595. In 1596, Sebastian Vizcay-
no — a famous Spanish navigator — established a military post at Santa Cruz;
the astronomical positions determined by him in 1603, was the only nautical
authority for this coast during the subsequent 160 years. However, the
permanent settlement of California did not commence till almost the close
of the third quarter of the last century, after which 4 Presidios and 21 Mis-
sions were founded (A. D., 1709 to 1822) with the view of civilizing the na-
tives through the peaceful influences of Christianity. In this the Monks
labored with patient energy and devoted zeal, and California continued
tranquil for upwards of 60 years; the Fathers increasing the number of
their converts, which at one period amounted to 20,000. Indeed, the settle-
ment of the country has been felicitously termed a "spiritual conquest."
With the commencement of the present century, accounts of earthquakes
make their first appearance in our local archives. In October, 1800, the
Mission of San Juan Bautista was visited by six severe shocks in one day.
The next mention comes nearer home — the Presidio of San Francisco having
*From the San Francisco Directory, 1861-62, with the statistics of the fiscal year ending June-SOth, 1S62, included.
SAN FRANCISCO DIRECTORY.
experienced 21 shocks between the 21st of June and 17th of July, 1808 ; and
the church of San Juan Capistrano was destroyed by a violent earthquake
four years afterward, when 41 Indians perished in the ruins. In 1829 and
1839, several severe shocks were again experienced in San Francisco. In
1812 the Kussians formed a settlement at Bodega, which they maintained for
thirty years. In 1822 California became a Mexican Territory, on the sep-
aration of all the Americas from Spain. Internal disturbances commenced
about the year 1830, and a decree was issued in 1838, confiscating and secu-
larizing the property of the Missions. Soon afterward the Natives became
dissatisfied with the national government that succeeded the milder
sway of the clergy, and more than once delared their independence, but just
as often rejoined the confederation. Occasionally the poi;ts were visited by
trading vessels for grain, and the hides and tallow cured at the Mission
stations; and bands of immigrants, from time to time, crossed the Eocky
Mountains, enduring hardships, and even horrors, in that slow pilgrimage of
2,000 miles ! Thus, however, commenced the development of the resources
of the country ; the beaver and the otter assisting in the good work, by en-
ticing across the Plains the hardy Trapper. In 1845, the Americans revolted
and fought under the "Bear Flag" for independence. On the 7th July,
1846, Commodore Stockton took possession of Upper California, by raising
the national flag at Monterey, and on the 2d of February, 1848, the country
was ceded, by treaty, to the United States. About this time (19th January,
1848,) the statements of the early voyagers were verified, gold was discovered !
" On the wings of the wind the glad tidings were conveyed throughout the
world. Suddenly labor arose in value, and industry was universally^ stimu-
lated. From the shores of the Atlantic and of the Pacific — from the isles
of the Ocean and across the wide plains, the gathering of a multitude com-
menced." The military government was superseded by one based on a Con-
stitution, which was ratified by the people on the 13th of November, 1849,
Thus, California became a State, and as such, was admitted into the Union
on the 9th of September, 1850*
Annals of San Francisco.
Prior to the year 1835, no human being had ever resided north of Mission
Creek, where the city of San Francisco is now built. Within the limits of
this peninsula, there was scai'cely any spot more lonely. The few ships that
found their way to this sequestered harbor, anchored in a little cove near
» The following is a list of all the Governors of California with their respective nationalities, and the dates of their
asBumption of office, viz :
Spanish— Vi&l , Qaspar do Portala; 1771, Felipe de Barri; 1774, Felipe deNeve; 1782, Pedro Fegas ; 1790, J. A.
Komeu; 1792, J. J. de Arrillaga ; 1794, D. de Borica; 1800, J. J. do Arrillaga; 1814, Joe6 Arguello; 1816, Pablo
Vincente de Sola.
J/e^icaji— 1823, Luis Arguello ; 1826, Joed Ma. de Echandia; 1831, Manuel Victoria; 1832, Pio Pico; 1832, Josft
Figueroa; 1835, Jo66 Castro; 1S36, N. Gutierrez; 1836, M. Chico; 1836, J. B. Alvarado; 1842, M. Micheltorena ;
1845, Pio Pico.
TTnited States— lSi6, Military Government ; 1850, P. H. Burnett; 1851, John McDougal; 1852, John Biglcr; 1856,
J. Neely Johnson ; 1858, John B. Weller; ISCO, Milton S. Latham ; ISCO, J. G. Downey ; 1802, Lelaud Stanford.
For much valuable information, referenceis made to RnndoljA's brilliant address on the Ilistory of California.
UIST'.MOAL AND STATISTICAL REVIEW.
tho Pi'csidio, which had been tho ombarcadero of tho Mission. In the year
named, W. A. Richardson, the Captain of tho Port, erected a tent on tho
beach; and in 1830, Jacob P. Loese built iho first house, where the St. Fran-
cis Hotel now stands, on thcyRorner of Clay and Dupont streets. Tho place
was then known as the Parage of Yerba Buena. In 1838 Mr. Leeso built
another dwelling on the southwesterly corner of Montgomery and Commer-
cial streets, which he sold to the Hudson Bay Company, whose agents and /'
servants formed nearly tho entire community. In 1839 Juan Vioget made
the first survc}' of Yerba Buena — bounded by Pacific, Montgomery, Sacra-
mento and Dupont streets. Up to the year 1843, this locality continued a
comparative wilderness; cattle roamed undisturbed where now are crowded
warehouses, and ravens croaked on the spots where peaceful dwellings stand. ^
In 1844 the village contained a dozen houses, and its permanent population
did not exceed fifty. In 1846 the houses had increased to 50, and the people
to 200, In September, 1847, the number of tenements was 157, and the
population neai'lj^ 500. In the same year the local name of Yerba Buena
was changed to that of San Francisco. A site so desirable for a city, formed
by nature for a great destiny, " on one of the finest Bays in the world, look-
ing out upon the greatest, the richest, and most pacific of Oceans — in the
very track of empire — in the healthiest of latitudes, such a site could not
fjiil to attract the attention of the expanding Saxon race." Commerce
hastened it; the discovery of gold consummated it. In April, 1848, the
town contained 200 dwellings, and a population of 850. In July, 1849, the
number of inhabitants had reached 5,000. By the State census of 1852 the
number then was 36,154; and now, in 1862, this, the Metropolis of the
Pacific, numbers in population, 90,000 souls, and can boast of an assessment
roll of fifty-five millions of dollars ! In exports standing first, and in imports
and tunnage among the very first of the gi'eat ports of the Union. Within
the past year, sand hills have been leveled, valleys have been filled in, streets
have been graded, sewers have been constructed, miles of gas-pipes have
been laid, and exhaustless supplies of pure water introduced. Substantial
fire-proof warehouses have been erected, and hundreds of dwellings have
been built. Who can foretell the future of San Francisco ? Her growth
was sudden ; there was no infancy in her history. Within but a few years,
her foundations have been laid, and after passing through the fiery ordeal
and a series of financial abuses and disasters, she now is on her onward
march to wealth and greatness.
View of the City.
For the information of distant readers, it may bo well to describe the lo-
cation of "The City We Live In." San Francisco stands upon the hilly
ridge which forms the barrier that separates the Pacific from the Bay, hav-
ing the ocean four miles on the west. The city is on the northeasterly
corner of this promontory; a series of lofty hills and sandy valleys originally
marked its site; the march of improvement has, howevei-, to a considerable
SAN FRANCISCO DIRECTORY.
extent, leveled the one, and filled in the other. Probably the finest view of
San Francisco is that which is enjoyed by the spectator, who gazes upon the
city and the surrounding country from the top of Telegi'aph Hill, an emi-
nence which rises to a hight of 289 feet. From it the landscape extends over
portions of ten counties, combining the grandeur of the ocean, with the peace-
ful evidences of agricultural industry — a blending of the wild and pictur-
esque — with the proofs of advanced civilization at your very feet. In a
northwesterly direction we behold the Golden Gate, against whose rocky
portals the white waves of the Pacific are ever dashing, and into which the
ocean breeze daily sweeps with its chilling but purifying mists. Due north
are the harbor and village of Saucelito — Angel Island in full view — Alca-
traces, with its formidable batteries, together with the rugged cliffs and
picturesque headlands of Marin County. The northeasterly arm of the Bay
stretches afar, till lost in the distance, studded with smoking steamers and
sailing craft, on the silent highway to the numerous points on the Sacramento
and San Joaquin. Looking eastward is the spacious harbor, crowded with
ships, laden with rich and useful products from all quarters of the globe ;
the Island of Yerba Buena <' with verdure clad," together with the rural
cities of Oakland and San Antonio; behind which, hills rise on hills, and
towering over these — nearly forty miles in the distance — may be seen the
conical peak of Monte Diablo, 4,000 feet in hight, seeming like a giant
sentinel, that for ages has guarded the slumber of these waters, when their
glassy surfaces were unrippled, save by the plash of the Indian's paddle.
Far away are the lofty summits of the Siei-ra Nevada, at whose rugged base
lie the treasures that have astonished the world. Turning to the south the
eye embraces the scenery of San Mateo, Santa Clara and Santa Cruz,
whitened with habitations; together with the great southern arm of the
; Bay, almost forming a horizon of water. Union City and the town of Alviso
-are also visible; nigh at hand is the New Potrero, and also the Mission
â– Dolores, backed by the Bernal Eights, and by graceful hills. At your feet
is the busy city ; an adventurous population thi'ong its thoroughfares, ex-
hibiting the complexions and costumes of many lands. The solitude of the
desert has given place to the "hum of industr}'-, and the yell of the hunter is
supplanted by the echo of the steam-whistle. Where formerly stood the
bumble embarcadero, may now be seen numerous wharfs extending into the
bay, beside which, are the vast hulls and loftj' spars of ocean leviathans.
The permanent improvements visible, on all sides, indicating the- profound
peace and prosperity which distinguishes California. From the North to the
South Beach, the hissing of the jack-plane, the grating of the hand-saw, and
the click of the trowel are heard on every side; workshops ring with the
' clang of metals, and factories with the whirr of looms. Lines of steamers
connect us with the East, and incidentall}^ with Europe, with South America
and Australia, with the ports in the Gulf of California, with Oregon, with
Washington Territory, and British Columbia. By means of the magnetic
telegraph we are within speaking distance of every portion of the State —
HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL REVIEW.
from tho gold-placers of Yreka to the orange-groves of Los Angeles; and
during tho past year wo have been placed in telegraphic communication with
the cities of the Atlantic. Fleets of ships from all quarters of the globe supply
us with the richest wares of foi'eign climes, returning freighted with the sur-
plus products of our fertile soil. All those cheering indications, together with
an increasing population — the successful inauguration of railroads, with tho
constant pouring into the lap of San Francisco of the treasures of our
mountains — the establishment of the Daily Overland Mail and of the Pony
Express — all these have imparted additional value to tho numberless inter-
ests of the State — and more particularly of our city.
The Mission and the Presidio.
During the unnumbered centuries, the peninsula bounded by tho Pacific
Ocean and the Bay of San Francisco, continued an unchanging wilderness,
until " men, foreign to the soil, but imbued with a sublime faith, left home
and kindred to teach civilization to barbarism, and to preach salvation to
the heathen." Tho veiy year which gave birth to the great Western Ee-
publie on the Atlantic shore of North America, witnessed the first perma-
nent settlement on the coast of Upper California. In 1776, two Missionaries
of the Eoman Catholic Church reached the bay of San Fi*ancisco, and pro-
ceeded to establish a central point for their operations. Their names were
Francisco Palou and Benito Cambon. They wore natives of Spain, but
came to this place from Mexico. Finding a fertile tract of land, capable of
irrigation, nearly two railes south of the present city of San Francisco, they
selected it for their home, and with much pious pomp, they founded the
Mission of our Father St. Francis; but in the course of years, the name was
changed to that of the Mission Dolores, in commemoration of the sufferings
of the Virgin. The Fathers evinced much good sense in selecting the site
for their buildings, Avhich was a small, fertile plain, embosomed among green-
clad hills. Several tiny rivulets of clear, sweet water met about the spot,
whose united streams were conducted to the bay by one of larger size, now
well known as Mission Creek, Among the first buildings erected was the
Church, Avhich is still devoted to religious uses, while the adjoining adobe
buildings are now used for secular purposes. The Missions were established
with the view, not only of projiagating tho doctrines of tho Roman Catholic
religion, but by so blending agriculture and trade, under the tutelage of the
Church, as to render the Natives amenable subjects of the Spanish Crown.
The Friars succeeded in reducing a largo number to a partial degree of
civilization ; and to the self-denial of the good Fathers, La Pernuse, Van-
couver, Beechey, nnd other enlightened travelers, afford unqualified tosti-
mon3^ " During this primitive period, from which we are removed by so
brief an interval, it would seem that kindness in their intercourse with one
another, and hospitality to tho stranger, were the characteristics of the
Friars and their converts." Three miles west of the city, and two :ind a
half miles north of tho Mission is the Presidio, established to give military
SAN FRANCISCO UIRECTC
, ^.I WA \> &i
aid to the clei'gy in the conquest of the Indians. . ^.
this Presidio were the Missions of San Francisco, Santa Clara, San Rafael,
and Sonoma. The original buildings were constructed in quadrangular
form; the portions still remaining continue to be occupied as a Barracks.
Here it is worthy of mention, that soldiers of three different nationalities
have been successively quartered in this venerable garrison. The Presidio
was founded on the 17th of September, and the Mission on the 9th of Oc-
tober, A. D., 1776. Those interested in the early history of the Mission and
Presidio, will find a very graphic account in Palou's life of Junipero Serra.
Port Point, the Golden Gate, and the Bay.
On the northwesterly extremity of the peninsula of San Francisco, four
miles from the cit}'-, there stood, in early times, a bold, narrow, jutting pro-
montory of hard serpentine rock, 107 feet above the level of the sea, sur-
mounted by a small Mexican fortification, called Fort Blanco. The view
from this point was one of the finest in the harbor ; but the entire headland
has been cut down within a few feet of high water, and increased in area to
make room for the present noble and substantial structure, known as Fort
Point. It was commenced in 1S54, and is four tiers in hight, including the
battery in the reai-, mounting in all 164 guns, with accommodation for 2,400
men. The ordnance here and at Alcatraces combines all the improvements
and appliances of modern warfare. A light-house and a fog-bell adjoin the
Fort. The precipitate and rocky coast of California, which, in this parallel,
from Monterey north, presents scarcely an indentation, here suddenly breaks
asunder, causing the great cleft, or fissure in the coast range, known as The
Golden Gate — the distance across, between Fort Point on this side, and Lime
Point on the opposite shore, being one mile and seventeen yards. Here the
tide varies about seven feet. The Bay of San Francisco, of which the Golden
Gate forms the entrance, was not discovered till the end of October, 1769,
when Don Gaspar de Portala,the first Governor of California, encamped on its
shores. "Although navigators had passed it, anchored near it, and actually
gave its name to adjoining roadsteads; yet it is most remarkable, that the
clouds which concealed its entrance had never been lifted, and that it was at
length discovered by land." The Bay is formed by the confluence of the
blended waters of the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers. The former,
with its tributaries, draining the rich agricultural valleys and the auriferous
slopes of the Sierra Nevada from the north, as the latter does from the south.
It affords the finest and most commodious harbor on the Pacific coast of the
United States, extending in a southerly direction about 40 miles, parallel
with the ocean, from which it is separated by the peninsula forming the
counties of San Francisco and San Mateo, varjnng from five to twenty miles
in width. When the geographical position of San Francisco is considered —
holding the keys of the commerce of the Northern Pacific — looking upon
Asia and the teeming population of the Indies, and the case with which it
can be connected with the great seaports of the Atlantic, and thence with
HISTORICAL AND STATISTICAL REVIEW.
Europe — it would seem as if no city on the globe combined so many ma-
terial advantages. Already, vessels freighted to and from her harbor may
be seen in every sea, and in almost every port of the civilized world.
Yerba Buena Island.
Yerba Buena Island is situated in the Bay and within'the legislative limits
of the City and County of San Francisco. From llincon Point and Market
Street Wharf it is distant about one mile and a half, from Contra Costa
nearly three miles, and the western point is one and three quarters miles
from Telegraph Hill. The northern end is distant from the Golden Gate five
miles and a half This island contains 198 acres, of which 75 consist of rich
soil, well adapted for garden purposes; 15 acres are heavil}'^ timbered 23
acres jungle and brushwood; 85 acres hilly, rocky and sand}'-, being thickly
covered with the herb or mint plant, from which the island takes its name.
Springs of excellent water abound on the eastern and western sides, in the
midst of a fertile valley. The apex of this island is 343 feet above high
water; the sides are steep and irregular — rising to a ridge running nearly
east and west. In early times it was densel}'^ covered with wood, and was
known to ancient mariners and whalers as Wood Island; but, in 1839, one
Nathan Spear placed a number of goats thereon, and hence the still popular
name of Goat Island. On the easterly side is a wide, shoal bay, dry at Ioav
water, which, with the present material on the island, could be filled uj), so
as to be more than double its size. This island is formed of compact beds
of sandstone, from a few inches to six and eight feet in thickness. Its tex-
ture varies but little in the difi'erent beds, and the grain is close and even,
and generally very fine. The strata are laid bare by the action of the water
around the base of the island, and form a bold, rockj' shore, which, in many
places, appears to offer great resistance to the persistent denuding action of
the waves and strong currents. On appi'oaching the island from the west,
the evidence of stratification becomes visible, and the beds are seen to dip
westwardly towards the observer. The position of these beds of sandstone
is highly favorable for working, readily loaded at the wharf, and ferried over
the channel to the city. Several quarries have been opened on the ipland,
and the supply of building stone appears inexhaustible. The United States
Government, having proposed to place some batteries upon the island, in-
cluded it in the third lino of fortifications, and it was reserved Avith the other
points in 1852. Angel Island, lying to the northwest of Yerba Buena, rises
to a hight of 771 feet, with a shore-line of five miles and an area of one
square mile. Being in Marin County, it does not call for a more extended
notice in this place.
Alcatraces Island.
Alcatraces, or Bird Island, is'also within the Bay, and within the limits of
the city and county, lying to the westward of the Island of Yerba Buena.
It is composed of a fine-grained and very compact sandstone, of a dark,
bluish o-rcen color. This island takes its name from the immense number
8 SAN FRANCISCO DIRECTORY.
of these aquatic birds (pelicans) which, in early days, sought it as an abiding
place. The apex of this rocky eminence is 135 feet above the level of the
water, and its area 35 acres. Its greatest length and its extreme breadth
are 1,673 feet and 590 feet, respectively. The position of this little isle —
suggesting at once extreme strength and impregnable defense — caused it to
be reserved by the United States authorities, at the time of the cession of
California by Mexico, and preparations were at once made to render it a
formidable sentinel to watch over the safety of our city, even while its
brilliantly-lighted summit indicated, during the night, the path of security
to the fleet sailing in seaward from distant coasts — messengers of peaceful
commerce. Three barbette batteries encircle this national stronghold. The
one facing the city and commanding the Bay, in the direction of the Presidio,
mounting 35 guns; another, facing the Golden Gate, mounting 16 guns;
and one on the northern side of the island, facing Saucelito and Angel