soon arrive at
Kaysville, — 10 miles from Ogden. It is a
telegraph station surrounded by a farming set-
tlement, with its "co-op" store, blacksmith-shop
and the usual buildings of a small country town.
In entering and leaving, the road crosses several
little creeks that flow down from the mountains,
the waters of which are nearly all drank up by
the dry earth in the processes of irrigation.
Passing on, the traveler will notice a few houses
and settlements, toward the lake and mountains,
son n -l i I ues i leaver tin- mountains; arriving at
Far»)iii(/toii, — the next station, 21 1-4 miles
from Ogden. It is the county-seat of Davis
County, and has, besides a court-house, the usual
store and shops. This town is also located in
the midst of a farming region, and nearly over-
shadowed by the mountains on the east. Davis
County slopes to the west toward the lake, has a
warm rich soil, and when irrigated, produces
luxuriant crops of vegetables, melons, grain, etc.,
for the Salt Lake market. Leaving this station
the road draws near to the side of this great
inland sea, to
Centerville, — 25 1-2 miles from Ogden, — a
little farming town with its store, etc. Between
the lake on one side and the mountains on the
other, and the thrifty farms with orchards and
gardens now on either side and all around him,
the traveler will be kept pretty busy.
Wood's Cross — is the next station, 27 34
miles from Ogden. It is about midway between
the mountains and the lake, and is located in
what is called the best portion of Davis County.
It is a telegraph station with usual side tracks,
etc. The country gradually slopes into the
lake toward the west with an occasional drift of
sand near the shore, covered with the inevitable
sage brush which we have had since leaving Lara-
mie River. The cosy farm houses and the evi-
dences of thrift everywhere visible, the growing
crops and ripening fruits, if in the summer — all
cons] lire to make a pleasant landscape, upon which
the traveler can feast his greedy gaze, while the
shadow of the mountains grows longer, and the
twilight deepens into night as we arrive at
Salt Lake City. — the southern terminus of
the road, 36 1-2 miles from Ogden. But of this
city, more in another place.
The Utah Central has been a paying road
from the start, and its business, as the years pass
by, is destined to make it better still. We have
not all the data at hand to show what it has done,
but will give one or two illustrations. In 1873,
its tonnage was as follows. Freights received,
238,588,450 lbs. Freights shipped, 55,1587,754
lbs. In 1874, there was a slight falling off,
134
TME &&6MFIC WQWmST.
th iugh it was not as large as expected from the
business done in IS?:;, because of general depres-
sion of the mining interest of the Territory- In
1875, its business was as follows: Freights re-
ceived, 184,158,526 lbs. Freights shipped
54,189, 929 lbs. Its gross earnings for 1875 were
$407,000. Its operating expenses were $162,000.
This last sum does not of course include divi-
dends "ii its stock of $1,500,000, nor the interest
on its bonds amounting to $1,000,000. The pas-
senger fare, first class, from Ogden to Salt Lake
is $2. The controlling interest in this road is at
present owned by stockholders in the Union
Pacific, and it is one of the best paying roads in
the country. The above figures prove it.
SALT LAKE CITY.
Its Discover}/. — When Brigham Young,
with his weary band of pioneers arrived here, in
1817. it was a dreary waste, nevertheless a
beautiful site so far as location is concerned, for
a city. It lies on a bench or gradual slope from
the Wahsatch Mountains, which tower up be-
hind it on the east, to the River Jordan, which
bounds it on the west. It is recorded that when
the pioneers came within a few days' inarch of
the place, Orson Pratt and a few others went
ahead of the party " to spy out the land " and
select a place for camping, etc., convenient
to wood and water. On the 22d day of July,
1817, he rode over this valley with his compan-
ions, and returning to the main body, reported
the results of their observations. On the morn-
ing of July 24, 1817, this body arrived at the
top of the hill, overlooking the site of the city,
and the valley beyond, and were enchanted with
the scene. They gave vent to their joy in ex-
clamations of thanksgiving and praise to
Almighty God, firmly believing they had found
tH" land of promise, though it did not flow with
" milk and honey," and the " Zion of the Mount-
ains " predicted by ancient prophets. The Mor-
mons are great on literal interpretation. Figu-
rative language and expressions as viewed by
them are realities. The Bible means exactly
what it says with them. They had reasons,
however, for being enchanted. From the canon
through which they entered the valley, the view
is simply magnificent. The Great Salt Lake
glittered like a sheet of silver in the rays of the
morning sun; the towering peaks of the mount-
ain ranges, crowned with clouds and snow,
lifted themselves high up toward the sky, and
the valley, though a desert, was to them as lovely
as a June rose. The party camped on a small
stream south-west of the Tabernacle, anil pro-
ceeded t<> consecrate the entire valley to the
" Kingdom of God." On the 28th of the same
month, the ground for the temple was selected —
a tract of 40 acres, and a city two miles square
was laid off. Streets eight rods wide were
staked out, and the blocks contained ten acres
each. Orson Pratt took observations, and deter-
mined tic latitude I longitude of the city. A
large number of this pioneer party, after planting
their crops returned for their families, and the
last expedition for that year arrived on the last
day of ( Ictober, when they were receive, 1 by those
thai remained with demonstrations oi great joy.
Brigham Young went back with the returning
party, and did not find his way again to '• Zion "
until the next year. After the city had been
founded, emigration from foreign countries,
which bad been suspended, was re-organized
and came pouring into the Territory in masses.
The city grew ami the people spread out over
the Territory, settling every available spot of
land, thus contributing to its prosperity.
Beauty of Position. — The main portion of
the city lies off to the left, as it is approached by
the traveler, and presents a pleasing appearance.
Its streets are wide, with streams of water cours-
ing (heir way along the sides, while rows of
beautiful shade trees line the walks: and gar-
dens, and yards filled with fruit trees of various
kinds, everywhere greet the eye. Visitors
who are interested in beautiful gardens, will
find the most interesting on Main Street, just
west of the Walker House, at the residences
of the Walker Brothers ; also at Mr. Jen-
nings, on Temple Street, near the depots.
The city is now nearly thirty years old, and
in that time the tourist can see for him-
self what wonderful changes have been
made. The desert truly buds and blossoms
as the rose. The city is admirably located
for beauty, and at once charms its visitors.
The tourist should engage a carriage and drive
up and down the shaded streets, and see the wil-
derness of fruit groves and gardens. The first
practical thing, however, with the traveler is to
select his stopping place, during his visit. Of
hotels there are two first-class houses that are
popular resorts with the traveling public. The
Walker House is a four story brick structure with
132 rooms. It is located on the west side of
Main Street, has a frontage of 82 feet and a
depth of 120 feet. It has lately been entirely
renovated and handsomely furnished; also has
had the addition of a passenger elevator. It is
especially noted for its excellent table, which is
ahundant in game, fruits, fish. etc. The Town-
send House is on the corner of West Temple
and South Second streets, and has a fine shady
piazza along the front. Both of these hotels face
eastward, both are lighted with gas, and both are
supplied with all modem conveniences and lux-
uries. There are. also, other good hotels in the
city, which are considered second-class, and are
largely patronized.
Sights for Tourists. — Having selected a
stopping place-, the next thing is a visit to the
warm sulphur springs, for a bath. The street
TMS iP^CIFlC TQU^ISjW.
135
OFFICES AXD FAMILY RESIPENL'E
cars, running by nearly all the hotels, will take
you there.
Warm Springs. — These are, to invalids,
the most grateful and delightful places of resort
in the city. Exceedingly valuable either for
rheumatic or dyspeptic complaints, they are ex-
cellent in general invigorating properties, and
specially efficacious in skin diseases. They are
but about one mile from the hotel, reached either
by horse-cars or carriage. Even a pleasant walk
is preferable. Best times to enjoy them are early
in the morning before breakfast, or immediately
before dinner. Should never be taken within
three hours after a meal. The springs issue
from the limestone rock near the foot of the
mountains, and the curious character of the rock
is seen in the stones used for either fences or the
foundation of the buildings. The following an-
alysis has been made of the water by Dr. Charles
S. Jackson of Boston, and is generally posted on
the walls of the bathing-house.
" Three fluid ounces of the water, on evapo-
rating to entire dryness in a platine capsule, gave
8.25 grains of solid dry saline matter.
Caibonateof lime
and
magm
sia,
0.240
1.280
Peroxide of iron,
0.040
0.20S
LErae,
0.M5
2.007
Chlorine,
3.454
18421
SoJa.
2.877
15.344
Magnesia,
0.370
2.073
Sulphuric Acid,
0.703
3.748
8.229 43.981
It is slightly charged with hydro-sulphuric acid
gas, and with carbonic acid gas, and is a pleas-
ant, saline mineral water, having the valuable
properties belonging to a saline sulphur spring.
The temperature is lukewarm, ai*l, being of
a sulphurous nature, the effects are very pene-
trating ; at first the sensation is delicious, pro-
ducing a delightful feeling of ease and re-
pose ; but if the bather remains long, over
fifteen minutes, there is danger of weakness and
too great relaxation. These baths are now un-
der control of an experienced gentleman, and
fitted up with every modern convenience. Here
are Turkish baths, Hot Air baths and Russian
baths, in addition to the natural bath. The
warm sulphur-water can be enjoyed in private
SmSx
3°
SEW MOr.MON TEMPLE.
rooms, or in the large plunge or swimming bath.
Separate rooms for ladies and gentlemen, and a
smaller building near by is fixed up for the boys,
where they can frolic to their heart's content.
Hot Springs. — The tourist should take a
136
carriage, and, after visiting the Warm Springs
and enjoying the bath, drive a mile farther north
to where the mountain spur juts out to the very
railroad — and, right at its base are situated the
'• Hot Springs." which are the greatest natural
curiosity of the city. The water boils up, with
great force, from a'little alcove in the limestone
rocks, just even with the surface of the ground.
If you dare to thrust your hand in it, you will
find it boiling licit, apparently with a temperature
of over 200°. The ringer can not be retained in
the water for the best part of a minute ; yet the
sensation, as it is withdrawn, is so soft and cool-
ing, you will like to try it again and again — and,
strange to say. rarely with any danger of scald-
inc. If meat is dropped into this boiling water,
agriculture and vegetation for hundreds of yards
within the vicinity. This lake is also supposed
to be supplied, to some extent, by other tot
springs beneath the surface. Strang'' us it may
seem, the hot water does- not prevent the ex-
istence of some kinds of excellent fish, among
which have been seen some very fine huge trout.
Analysis of Hot Sulphur Spring:
Chloride of Sodium, 0.8052
" " Magnesium, 0.0286
" " Calcium, 0.1098
Sulphate of Lime. n.osiii;
Carbonate of Lime, n nisi)
Silica,
0.0180
1.0GU2
Specific gravity, 1.1454.
The Museum — is located on the south side
it is soon cooked, (though we cannot guarantee
a pleasant taste) and eggs will be boiled, ready
for the table, in three minutes. Often a dense
volume of steam rises from the spring, though
not always. A very large volume of water issues
forth from the little hole in the rock — scarcely
larger than the top of a barrel — about four feet
wide and six to twenty inches deep. Immedi-
ately near the rock is a little pool, in which the
water, still hot, deposits a peculiar greenish color
on the sides, and coats the long, wavy grass with
its sulphurous sediment. Flowing beneath the
railroad track and beyond in the meadows, it
forms a beautiful little lake, called Hot Spring
Lake, which, constantly filling up, is steadily in-
creasing its area, and, practically, destroying all
HIE MOKSION PRESIDENT.
of South Temple street, and directly opposite
the Tabernacle. Professor Barfoot is in charge,
and he will show you specimen ores from the
mines, precious stones from the desert, pottery-
ware and other articles from the ruins of ancient
Indian villages, the first boat ever launched on the
Great Salt Lake by white men, home-made
cloths and silks, the products of the industry of
this people, specimen birds of Utah, a scalp
from the head of a dead Indian, implements of
Indian warfare and industry, such as blankets
white people cannot make, shells from the ocean,
and various articles from the Sandwich Islands,
and other things ton numerous to mention.
Formerly there were quite a number of living
wild animals kept here, but some fiend poisoned
TSE MCMFIC T9V8M8T.
137
VIEW OF SALT LAKE CITY, LOOKING WESTWARD ACROSS THE JORDAN VALLEY.
the most of them. There are now living, how-
ever, a large horned owl, a prairie dog, and the
owls that burrow with him, together with the
rattlesnake ; also other birds and reptiles which
need not be named. This institution is the re-
sult of the individual enterprise of John W.
C0OPERA18VE
SIGN OF MORMON STORES.— SALT LAKE CITY.
Young, Esq., and for which he is entitled to
great credit. A nominal sum. simply, is charged
for admission, which goes for the support of Pro-
fessor Barfoot, who has the care and direction of
the Museum. Across the street, behind a high
wall, is the Tabernacle, and near by it, on the
east, enclosed within the same high wall, are the
foundation walls of the new Temple. We shall
not attempt a description of either, as a personal
inspection will be far more satisfactory to the
visitor. We advise every tourist to get to the
top of the Tabernacle, if possible, and get a view
of the city from the roof. Within the same
walls may be found the Endowment house, of
which so much has been written. In this build-
ing both monogamous and polygamous marriages
take place, and the quasi-masonic rites of the
church are performed. On South Temple street,
east of Temple block, is the late residence of
Brigham Young, also enclosed in a high wall
which shuts out the rude gaze of passers-by, and
gently reminds the outsider that he has no busi-
ness to obtrude there. Nearly opposite to this
residence is a large and beautiful house which
is supposed to belong to the Prophet's favorite
wife, Amelia — familiarly called Amelia Palace,
probably the finest residence for 500 miles around.
Returning to East Temple or Main street, we
behold a large brick building with iron and
glass front, three stories high, with a skylight its
13S
TttE <-F?lGIFm T@W f £i§W.
entire length. This is the new "co-op" store,
[n feet wide and 3U0 feet long, with all the mod-
ern improvements, steam elevator, etc. Nearly
opposite this store is Savage's picture gallery,
whose photographs of scenery and views
along the road, are tie' finest of any ever
issued in the Great West. Continuing on
iii> sane' street south, and the elegant build-
ing of the Deseret National Bank greets
0U1' gaze, on the north-east corner of East
Temple and First
South streets. Di-
agonally across the
street from this is
the emporium of
William Jennings,
Esq. But it is
needless to enu-
merate all the
buildings in the
city, be they pub-
lic or private.
We must not omit,
however, the ele-
gant private resi-
dence and beau-
tiful grounds of
Mr. Jennings, on
the corner east of
the depot. They
are worthy of a
visit, and so, also,
is the elegant pri-
vate residence of
Feramor Little,
directly east of the
Deseret National
Bank. The theater
is open occasion-
ally in the even-
ing, where may lie
seen many of the
Leading Mormons
and their famili is.
The city is sup-
plied with gas,
water, and street
railroads. The
water is brought
from CitV Creek interior of m
Canon, through the principal streets, in iron
pipes, though in some seasons the supply is
lather short.
Scenery Wear the City. — North of the city.
Ensign Peak lifts its head, the Mountain of
Prophecy, etc. Its crown is oval in shape, and
the mountain, etc , is said to have been seen in a
vision by some of the Mormon dignitaries long
before it was beheld by the naked eyes of the
present settlers. The sight from this peak, or
others near at hand, is grand and impressive.
Under your feet lies the City of the Saints, to
the west the Great Salt Lake, to the south the
valley of lie- rh or .Ionian, the settlements along
tie- line of tin' railroad, and the mountains on
either side. Though the way to the summit re-
quires a little toil, and will expand one's lungs to
th.' fullest extent, yel tin- reward, when once the
summit is reached, will amply pay tor all the
toil it has cost.
In the summer months only, the Tabernacle is
open, and the services of the Mormon church are
then held there
nearly every Sab-
bath. Behind the
rostrum or pulpit
is the great organ,
made in the city,
and said to lie the
second in size on
the Continent.
East of the city
there seems to be
a withdrawal of
the mountains and
a part of a circle,
formed like an
amphitheatre.
About two miles
east is Camp
Douglas, estab-
lished by General
Connor during the
late w a'. It is beau-
tifully located on
an elevated bench
commanding the
city.andatthebase
of the mountains.
New buildings
have been erected,
and it is now
considered one
of the finest and
most convenient
posts the govern-
ment has. It is
supplie d with
water from Red
Butte Canon, and
has a great many
RMON TABERNACLE. — THE GREAT ORGAN. conveniences.
Below Camp Douglas, Emigration Canon next
cuts the mountains in twain. It is the canon
through which Oison Pratt and his companions
came when they first discovered the valley, the
lake, and the "site for a city— through which
Brigham Young anil the pioneers came. an. 1 was
tle> route by which nearly all the overland emi-
grants arrived, on coming from the Fast. Below
this, as you look south, is Parley's Canon,
through which a road leads to Parley's Park and
the mining districts in that region. Then comes
South Mill Creek with its canon, through the
TBE &&GIFIG T&Wm^T.
139
towering peaks, and then the Big Cottonwood
Creek and Canon. Between it and Little Cot-
tonwood Canon, next on the south, is the mount-
ain of silver — or the hill upon which is located
some of the richest paying mines in the Terri-
tory. Here is the Flagstaff, the North Star, the
Emma, the Reed & Benson, and others worth
their millions. The Emma mine has become
notorious in the history of mines, but there is
not a practical miner in Utah who doubts the
existence of large bodies of rich ore there, and,
it' it had been practically worked, would, in the
o p i n i o n o f
m a n y . h a v e
equaled, if not
exceeded, the
celebrated Corn-
stock lode be-
fore this.
No visitor to
Salt Lake
sliou Id leave
the city with-
out a trip to the
lake and a ride
on its placid
bosom — a trip,
also, to the
southern ter-
minus of the
Utah Southern
Railroad, the
mountains and
canons along
its line, and to
the mountains
and m i lies of
Stockton,
O p h i r , Bing-
ham, and above
all, the Cotton-
wood districts.
If you are fur-
ther inclined to
improve the op-
portunity, ride
up to Farley'.-,
Park, go to
Provo and spend a week, or a month even, in
visiting the wonderful canons near there, and
in hunting and fishing in the mountain streams
and in Lake Utah. A trip to the summit of
old Mount Nebo would afford you good ex-
ercise, and very fine views. With Salt Lake
for headquarters, all these places can be taken
in, and your only regret will be that you did
not stay longer, travel farther, and see more of
this wonderful land.
Gardening, Irrigation. — The city was
originally laid out in large ten acre blocks, which
were, in time, subdivided into house lots, most
of which, having been liberally planted with
NEW RESIDENCE OF liRMIHAM VOITXG. — AMELIA PALACE.
fruit trees, have since grown with great luxuri-
ance, and the city seems a vast fruit orchard and
garden. Through all the streets run the little
irrigating streams, and every part of the city
has its chance, once or twice a week, to get a sup-
ply of pure water to wet the soil and freshen the
vegetation.
The city is divided into wards. Every ward
has its master, and he compels all the inhab-
itants to turn out and work on public improve-
ments. There is no shirking. Every one has a
responsibility to guard and watch his own
property, take
care of his own
i r r i g a.t i u g
ditches, and
keep his waul
in perfect order.
The city is one
of perfect order
and quietness.
Through all
the streets of
the city there
is a universal
and luxuriant
growth of
shade trees.
These have
been planted
profusely, and
grow with
amazing rapid-
ity. The lo-
cust, maple and
box-elder, are
the greatest fa-
vorites, the for-
mer, however,
being most
planted. In
many cases
the roots have
struck the al-
kali soils, which
contain an ex-
cess o f soda
and potash, and
their leaves have turned from a bright or dark
green to a sickly yellow — and often trees may be
noticed, half green and half yellow.
This alkali has to be washed out of the soil by
irrigation, and gradually grows less positive year
by year. In nearly all the gardens are splendid
apples, pears, plums and apricots, growing with
exceeding thrift, and covered with the most
beautiful blushing colors. Apricots which in
the East are almost unknown, here have been so
abundant as often to sell as low as SI. 00 per
bushel, and we have seen them as large as east-
ern peaches, from four to six and eight inches
round.
mcz
ffp.jfoyjrt*
140
TME &&GIF1G T@Efmi$F.
Flowers are very abundant, and vegetables are
wonderfully prolific. In the gardens of William
Jennings, may be seen growing out doors on
trellises, grapes, the Black Hamburgh, Golden
t'hassclas and Mission grape, varieties which are
only grown in a hot-house in the East. Through
all the gardens can be seen an abundance of
raspberries, gooseberries and currants. In Mr.
Jennings's garden, in summer, may be seen a
pretty flower garden, 150 feet in diameter, —
within the center of which is a piece of velvety
lawn — the finest and most perfect ever seen —
while from it, southward, can be caught a spe-
cially glorious view of the Twin Peaks of the
Wahsatch Mountains, capped with unvarying
snow.
Future of Salt Lake City. — The future of
Salt Lake depends upon two things — the mines
and the railroads. If the mines are developed
and capital is thus increased, it will have a ten-
dency to cause an immense amount of building
in the city, and a corresponding advance in real
estate. It is claimed that the city now has a
population of 30,000 souls, but we "think 22,000
a closer estimate. Many parties owning and
operating mines make the city their place of
residence, and some have already invested in
real estate there. We heard the opinion of a
wealthy capitalist — a gentleman operating in
mines — to the effect that in ten years Salt Lake
would number 250,000 people, but he was a little
enthusiastic. If the Utah Southern is extended
to the Pacific Coast, it will add largely to the
wealth, population and influence of the " City of
the Saints." The silent influence of the Gen-
tiles and the moral power of the Nation has