Note. — The above route is better than either rail or
â– 87
STOCKHOLM.] SWEDES, [rtdbebg hotel.
boat for the entire journey from Gottenburg to Stock-
holm, as the one day on the Gotha Canal gives you the
falls of Trolhsattan and the prettiest scenery.
A "'j. 24. — See the palace, the interior being as fine
as any thing abroad, especially the Dresden China
Boudoir, where the mirror-frames, chandeliers, and
even chairs, were of china. The private apartments
of the king are charming, especially his armory, smok-
ing-room, and antique tankard room, filled with every
variety of Scandinavian tankards and drinking-vessels.
The Indian and Chinese rooms, atelier, and bedrooms,
â– were very perfect. Visit also the royal stables and
church, -where are the bodies of Gustavus Yasa and
Charles XII. After lunch at 2, by carriage to the
country palace of Prince Oscar, at Bellevue. Also, to
the charming summer residence of the king at Rosen-
dal, filled with the most quaint and extraordinary
things : the Drinkhalle, with 183 cups of delf and
glass ; another room, with numerous tankards, plates,
and chandeliers of engraved lead. Back to dine at the
celebrated cafe in the Deer Garden.
Aug. 25. — Take steamer, at 11, up the Malar Lake,
to Drottingholm (6 miles), or Queen's Island, belonging
to the queen-dowager, a splendid palace; one cham-
ber, that of Gustavus Adolphus, of blue and gold,
being as ornate and elaborate as it is possible to con-
ceive ; the gardens, fountains, clipped trees, and Chi-
nese palace, very fine. Back to Stockholm at 4 p. m,
Aug. 27. — Take steamer at 8 A. M. up the Malar
Lake, reaching, about 12, the wonderful old chateau
of Skokloster, built, in 1G30, by the celebrated Wran«
88-
crsALA.] SWEDEX.
gle family, and now in possession of the Brays, the
most noble family in Sweden. There is ao1 in Europe
a more peculiar or distinctive chateau than this: a
large quadrangle, the galleries filled with very curious
and quaint old pictures, and on and over the doors are
sentences in Latin, Greek, and other languages. The
rooms, which are very large and numerous, have ex-
traordinary mantel-pieces of carved and colored wood,
and the ceilings with projecting figures as large as life;
wonderful old cabinets filled with exquisite glass gob-
lets and tankards taken in the Thirty Years' War.
The walls, covered with gobelin tapestry, uncommonly
fresh and well preserved. Leaving here by another
steamer, reach, in 1-J hours, ITpsala, the ancient Scan-
dinavian capital, beautifully situated at the end of a
narrow river or canal. The cathedral here, built in
1258, is very fine, equal in size and character to any in
England. Beneath the altar is buried Linnaeus. The
tombs of the great Gustavus Vasa and his two wives
are in the Lady Chapel ; so, also, the crown of John
III. The university, which is scattered about the
town, was founded in 1477, and generally contains
1,400 students, all wearing a white cap, and looking
like simple, quiet, hard-working young men. Visit
the house of Linnaeus and his Botanic Garden, having
quantities of Norway spruces cut into square blocks.
Dine and sleep at Upsala.
Aug. 28. — Leave Upsala at 8, in steamer down the
Malar Lake, in which are some 300 islands, reaching
Stockholm at 1.30.
Sept. 1. — Leave Stockholm at 2 a. m., in steamer,
going on board the night before, for St. Petersburg;
89
6T. PETERSBURG.] RUSSIA. [HOTEL DE BTT88IB.
the i across the Baltic often very rough, until
you gel among the islands. Beach Abo, in (Julf of
Finland, at 5, the first Finnish-Russian town; going
ashore for an hour or so, but returning on board
Bteamer to sleep.
t. 2. — At sea more or less all day, reaching VI-
borg at 7 r. m. ; ashore for an hour or so; passing
several torts to-day, destroyed by the English during
the Crimean War.
Sept. 3. — Leaving Viborg early, reach Cronstadt at
3. At 4.30, first view of the golden dome of Isaac's
Church and the spire of the Admiralty ; reach St.
Petersburg at 5.30 (Hotel de Russie — excellent).
Sept. 4. — Drive to the Summer and "Winter Palaces,
the Nevskoi Prospekt, the fort, and Isaac's Church,
which is most magnificent. Outside, the base and col-
umns are of red granite, or porphyry. Inside, one
mass of gold, marble, and precious stones; the grand
altar being supported by six columns, 50 feet high —
four of malachite and two of lapis-lazuli.
Sept. 5. — Taking steamer, go to PeterhofF, seeing the
splendid golden statues and fountains, equal to Ver-
sailles ; the palace and gardens very interesting.
Sept. 6. — Leave St. Petersburg at 2.30 in sleeping-
carriage, on rail for Moscow — 400 miles — reaching
Moscow at 9 next morning (ilme. Billet's Hotel).
Sept. 7. — Taking carriage, drive to the Kremlin,
where ascend Ivan's Tower, having a wonderful view
of 1,500 churches, with their domes — red, blue, yellow,
orange, and green, many of them gilded — one of the
most remarkable views in the world for a city. After
which, drive round the town for two or three hours,
90
MOSCOW.] RUSSIA. [MADAME BILLET'S,
Beeing all the palaces, mosques, monasteries, etc., and
out to Peterskoi, where Napoleon lived during the
conflagration of Moscow.
Sept. 8. — To the Kremlin, to see the various
churches, filled with gold, pictures, and precious
stones — diamonds, pearls, turquoises — many the
of a shilling. Subsequently, through the vast collec-
tion of robes, mitres, etc., for the patriarch and bish-
ops, one mass of the most precious stones, of immense*
size, though not well polished. Here, also, are great
silver and gold vessels (kettles) for making the holy
oil. After lunch, drive to the celebrated monastery
of Seminoff, 3 miles from Moscow ; splendid music ;
about thirty monks.
Sept. 9. — To the Kremlin, seeing the Treasury, con-
taining the various arms of the different reigns, the sad-
dles, bridles, stirrups, swords, etc., being studded with
precious stones — diamonds, rubies, turquoises, emeralds,
sapphires, etc. Also the thrones — ivory, gold, and
silver, encrusted with diamonds and rubies and im-
mense turquoises. The collection of plate, in size,
quantity, and shape, passes belief. In one room i- the
collection of crowns; that of Alexwitch has 881 dia-
mond-, and under the cross an immense ruby. The
crown of Peter the Great has 847 diamonds ; that of
Catharine L, 2,53G — splendid stones, to which t ho
Empress Anne added the largest ruby in the world.
The throne of Michael Romanoff has 8,824 fine tur-
quoises, many as large as a ton-cent piece, and 1,220
other jewels. After lunch, drive to Sparrow Hill,
about 4 miles, where Napoleon, on the 14-th of Sep-
tember, 1814, had his first view of Moscow. Tim
91
Moscow. 1 RUSSIA. [mad oje billet's.
Opera-House is very superb, with the widest •
and largest orchestra in Europe.
'. 10. — To the Romanoff Palace, very small, but
very characteristic of the early life of the pres< nt royal
family before coming to the tin-one. Also to St. Basil's
Church, with 11 chapels above and G below. After
lunch, to the Foundling Hospital, the most wonderful
institution of the sort in the world. Its revenues are
600 to TOO millions of rubles — more than twice the
revenue of Prussia; having 10 per cent, on all the-
receipts of the theatres, and the monopoly of cards
throughout the empire. Since 1st January last (hardly
nine months), 7,890 children have been admitted, and
580,000 since its commencement; 25 children daily is
the average number left here. The children are all
educated to speak four languages; and, if they show
ability, become tutors, governesses, music-teachers, etc.
Sept. 12. — Leaving Moscow in train at 1.30, reach
St. Petersburg at 10 next morning.
Sept. 13. — See the Ecole des Mines, filled with pat-
terns and models of all the mines in Switzerland,
Siberia, etc. ; also the Winter Palace, with many pic-
tures of great Paissian battles; also the crown jewels,
more magnificent than can well be described — one
necklace, with diamonds each as large as a shilling.
The throne-room, St. George's Hall, and other halls,
superb; 7,000 persons reside here when the emperor
comes to town for the season. In this palace is also to
be seen the simple, unostentatious little chamber where
the Emperor Nicholas died.
Sept. 14. — To the Hermitage, which really requires a
week to be seen thoroughly. The magnificent collec-
92
ST. PETEP.SBrRCr.] RUSSIA. [HOTEL DE RUSSI3.
tion of pictures being almost unsurpassed in any other
gallery — Rubens, Vandyck, G-uido, Teniers, etc., a
room of each. The works of art, especially marbles,
most superb. Exquisite vases, candelabras, tables of
malachite, vert-antique, lapis-lazuli, pink and variegated
marbles. The collection of antique rings very interest-
ing. Afternoon, drive to the great palm-houses and
botanic gardens belonging to the Czar (on the Apothe-
cary's Island), who pays $45,000 a year for their sup-
port. There are 12 houses, very old and shabby,
having been built over 30 years ; the plants are very
fine and large, the varieties of evergreens being over
3,000, two araucarias, over 35 feet high, costing
81,400.
Sept. 10. — By rail to Tzarko Selo, thence by carriage
to the palace, the summer residence of the emperor,
14 versts from St. Petersburg; a splendid and curious
old palace. The grounds, roads, arrangement of or-
namental water, quite English in their character and
keeping. Also drive to Paulovsky, the palace of tho
Grand-duke Michael. Back to St. Petersburg by 5.
Sept. 18. — To the Hermitage again, seeing the splen-
did collection of snuff-boxes and objects of Peter the
Great, as well as the tools, turning-lathes, and various
things made by him; also again revisit the magnificent
gallery, especially the Russian Rubens and Vandyck
rooms, as well as the Masris, Van Steen, and Teniers
collection. Later drive to the Taurida Palace, with its
great ballroom, half a mile in circumference, and really
lie lutiful gardens.
•\ ±2. — Leave St. Petersburg in a c ibinet j
culler (carriage on rail), at 1, and, after travelling all
93
WAItSAW ] POLAXD. [HOTEL DE L'EtT.OrE.
n i irl 1 1 , breakfast next morning at the station in Wilna,
lunching at another station at 2, and reaching Warsaw
(Hotel de l'Enrope), at 6 p. m., after 30 hours in train.
Sept. 23. — Taking a carriage, drive round the town,
Beeing the palaces of the old Polish nobles — the Bobi-
eskis, Poniatowskis, Brnhls, etc. ; and out to the
summer palace of the emperor, built by the last Polish
king — certainly the most charming house, water, and
grounds, ever imagined. Just beyond, the Belvidere,
the palace of the Grand-duke Constantine.
Sept. 25. — Leave Warsaw at 1, by train, changing
cars at Bromberg; at Thorn passing the Russian, and
at Alexandravitch the Prussian, frontier, and reaching
Berlin at G the next morning (Hotel St. Petersburg).
Oct. 2. — Leave Berlin at 6 a. m. by train; reach
Cologne at 9.30 p. m. ; 403 English miles.
Oct. 4. — Leave Cologne (Bellevue Hotel), at 9 a. m.,
by train; reaching Brussels at 3.30 (Bellevue, a most
excellent hotel).
Oct. 10. — Leave Brussels by express train, at 9.05 ;
reaching Paris (Hotel Bristol) at 5 p. m.
Xote. — The entire journey from London, hack to
Paris, including Belgium, Holland, Hanover, Denmark,
Norway, Sweden, Russia, Poland, Prussia, occupied 4
months and 4 days, and might readily have been accom-
plished in 3 months. The entire cost 19,446 francs —
say 4,000 dollars in gold — for actual travelling expenses ;
and for a party of 4 and 1 servant, and in Norway 2
servants.
94
TOURS THROUGH SICILY AND SPA IX.
PARIS TO MALTA, MALTA YIA SICILY, NAPLES, POME,
FLORENCE, GENOA, THE COENICHE ROAD, AND SPAIN
TO PARIS.
Jan. 1. — Leaving Paris at 7 r. m. by train (coupi au
lit), reach Marseilles next day at noon (Grand Hotel
de Marseilles).
Jan. 3. — Leaving Marseilles at 8 a. m. in steamer,
reach Malta third afternoon at G p. m. (Dunsford's
Hotel).
Feb. 20. — Leaving Malta at 5 p. m., reach Syracuse.
in Sicily at 4 next morning. Quitting steamer after
breakfast, visit the fountains of Arethusa, the museum,
the Temples of Minerva and Ceres, the Ear of Diony-
sius, etc., returning to steamer at. 11. Reach Catania
(Grand Hotel) at 2 ; beautifully situated. Leave
steamer here.
Feb. 21. — See the town and the grand street A^ictor
Emmanuel; by carriage to the magnificent church of
the Benedictines, the largest in Sicily; then to tho
remains of the Greek Theatre, built before Christ, sai.J
to hold 3,000 persons — the amphitheatre of seats and
much of the exquisite carved marble in the finest pres-
95
C ATAXIA.] SICIL Y. [GRAXD HOTEL.
ervation. After this, to a pretty public garden, with
araucarias, palms, aloes, etc., the banks being masses
of verbenas, petunias, lobelias, to cover the naked
ground, insteaS of grass. In the Botanic Garden are
beautiful specimens of araucaria-bidwillii, biota-cana-
riensis, taxodium-mucronatum, and casurina-torulosa.
Feb. 22. — If clear, the finest view of Mount Etna is
from the hotel. Leave Catania by train at 3, reaching
Messina at G.40, over a most superb road and through
interesting scenery; many towns on top of mountains,
and picturesque old castles. At Messina, Hotel Victo-
ria excellent.
Feb. 23. — "Walk about the town and up the Strada
Victor Emmanuel to the Catania Gate. In the after-
noon drive to a beautiful view over the city.
Feb. 24. — Leave Messina at 8 a. m. in steamer, pass-
ing through Scylla and Charybdis, just outside the
straits, and by Stromboli, wreathed in volcanic smoke,
about 10. At 12 reach Lipari, a picturesque town on
top of a mountain, where the boat stops an hour.
This is on one of the iEolian isles. At 4 reach Mo-
lasso, remaining here four hours, and arriving at
Palermo at noon the next day (The Trinacria) ; excel-
lent hotel. The passage from Messina to Palermo
should, if possible, be always taken by daylight, as it
is inexpressibly charming ; the most extraordinary
towns, convents, and castles, perched up on top of
apparently inaccessible mountains — many in ruins.
Palermo itself hardly inferior in situation to Xaples.
Feb. 25.— Walk to the English Garden (beautifully
situated on the Marina), and to the elaborate Moorish
cathedral ; drive to Baida, a deserted monastery, su-
90
talexmo.] slcILY. [trotaobia.
perbly situated on a mountain, with magnificent views
of Palermo ; from here to the gardens of the Duke of
Ragusa, with a well-contrived labyrinth and rustic
house, on opening the doors of "which, a monk rushes
at you from one and blesses you from another. The
place itself a tangled mass of exquisite exotics fall the
varieties of palms, yuccas, aloes, araucarias, acacias,
casuarinas 20 feet high, india-rubber as large as apple-
trees, abutilons, daphnes, evergreens), magnolias, etc.,
and camphor-trees, through which run walks in every
direction.
Feb. 20. — Leaving the hotel at 10 a. m., drive in car-
riage to Monte Reale, a superb old convent on top of
a mountain 5 miles from Palermo, with a wonderful
view of the city, sea, and valley ; connected with it is
a church, perfectly encrusted and lined with mosaics —
one piece of floor lately repaired, some 20x50 feet,
cost £4,000. The cloisters here are also very beauti-
ful, each column and capital being of different design.
The view from the terrace of Monte Reale is perhaps
as fine as any thing in Europe. Visit on your way back
the Capuchin convent, containing 8,000 dried monks —
one who died in 1G00 having his nails, lingers, and
tongue, quite perfect.
Feb. 27. — Drive in one and a half lours to Bacheria,
seeing the wonderful palace of the monsters ; the ave-
nues having, at intervals, on parapets and pedestals,
the most grotesque figures in stone, of devils, demons,
etc.; the interior very magnificent, though in decay;
the grand drawing-room, 00 feet square, being ceiled
in mirrors, on which were painted various figures; the
walls of different-colored porphyry an 1 marbles, with
9 9*7
N.\n .: X.II'I.: [victokia.
busts and figures of the family in alto relievo; the floor
of marble, alabaster, and porphyry. Another palace
hard by, belonging to Prince Biso, had a terrace from
Which were exquisite views of Palermo and its bay,
and a second hay on the other side of the mountains.
The palace of Prince Bouterer also very interesting,
with superb views, and having near it a house filled
with wax-figures of priests in their different occupa-
tions, very well done. Back to Palermo at 5.
Feb. 28. — Leaving Palermo at 1 in steamer, reach
Naples next morning at G (The Victoria Hotel).
March 6. — Leaving Naples by rail at 10.30, reach
Rome (Hotel de Borne) at 7 p. m.
March 16. — Leaving Rome at 8 p. m. by train {covjie
cu lit), reach Florence next morning to breakfast
(Hotel de l'Arno).
March 22. — Leaving Florence by rail at 10. -15 a. m.,
reach Pisa at 1.15. Leaving Pisa by a later train at
3.30, reach Leghorn at 4. After dinner at the hotel,
take steamer at 8 p. m., arriving at Genoa (Hotel
Feder) at 5.30 next morning. After seeing the town,
drive a few miles to the Villa Pallavicini, not usually
visited by travellers, but more remarkable than any
gardens in Italy, or possibly in the world. The estate
is kept in order by 20 directors, 8 gardeners, and 30
assistants, the usual pay being 2 to 3 francs a day : you
pass from the house on to a superb terrace of white
marble, having a very extended view over the city and
the Mediterranean, as far as the mountains of Corsica ;
below, a series of terraces, with white-marble balus-
trades and steps — these terraces bordered by espaliers
of oranges and lemons, 20 feet high, and standard
98
GEXOA.] TTJ&CANY. [hotel FEDER.
camellias (10 to 20 feet high) of every color, in full
flower; these were interspersed with large azaJiaa and
rhododendrons, also in hlooin. From the other side
of the house you enter (through avenues of laurel and
laurestinus, heath in flower 12 to 15 feet high, 8 or
10 varieties of holly) the beautiful Grecian temple in
white marble, with exquisite frescos. On the other
side of this is a long Italian walk, bordered by vases,
and planted with dwarf oranges in fruit, with a back-
ground of firs, and terminating in another beautiful
temple. From this again you pass through narrow,
tortuous walks, to a little rustic cottage, designed
to show the contrast between high art and simple
Nature. Ascending through dense woods of holly,
laurel, Portugal laurel, and sweet bay, surmounted
by majestic Italian pines, you come suddenly upon
a wild, picturesque fall, the water brought 5 miles,
forming a small lake, in which the fish are fed at a
cost of $2.50 a day. This walk, with occasional stop-
ping-places, indicated by rustic seats, leads to the sum-
mit of the mountain, upon which is a ruined tower,
with superb views in every direction. Descending
the mountain through similar plantations, you come,
amidst dense undergrowth of yew and holly, upon
some ruins, intended to represent a city destroyed by
war — mossy and ivy-grown. A turn in the walk sud-
denly brings you in front of a cavern of stalactites,
brought at great expense from every part of Italy ;
you pass through intense gloom and shadow for
some way, presently emerging into a lighter cavern,
30 feet square, the crevices of the rocks overgrown
and draped with ivy and parasites, admitting sufficient
99
GENOA.] TUSCANY, [hotel feder.
daylight to perceive a large lake, occasionally appear-
ing and disappearing between the columns and Avails
of the cavern. Your guide now saluting you, says,
'â– Addio, signor! I shall again behold you in the Tem-
ple of Flora ! " and suddenly leaves you. Presently,
in the dim, distant "windings of this mysterious cavern,
a gilded boat appears, propelled by a picturesque
Charon ; you enter, and, after several minutes of alter-
nate light and shade, passing through narrow, gloomy
passages, where the dimmest light is only seen, and
again into large caverns — luminous through crevices in
vaulted roofs of rock, — you suddenly emerge into the
bright sun in a beautiful little lake. In the centre is
an island, on which stands a most charming and
exquisitely-sculptured temple, containing a statue of
Diana ; at some little distance, in the water, are four
statues of the Tritons. There are several other small
islands, connected by Chinese bridges, elaborate in
color and gold ; under one you have, from your boat,
a most exquisite view of the Mediterranean, some 700
feet below. On another side of this little lake is a
charming garden, surrounded by dense, umbrageous
plantations of arbutus, oleander, and laurestinus, con-
taining a parterre exquisitely laid out and planted in
azalias and camellias, of every shade of color : in the
midst stands a lovely little temple of purest marble,
called the Temple of Flora. Here you disembark, and
are again received by your former guide, who informs
you that this grotto and lake cost nine hundred thou-
sand francs, and occupied four hundred men daily for
two years to complete it. Passing a cork-tree, said to
be the largest in Italy, you come to a rustic bridge
100
MARSEILLES.] FRANCE. [grand hotel.
leading to a summer-house, beyond which is a swing.
On crossing the bridge, a loose plank touching a spring
covers you with water; running into the rustic-house
to get rid of this, you find yourself the centre of four
horizontal sheets of water. If you attempt the swing,
you are drenched from all the adjacent trees. Return
to Genoa at G.
March 25. — Leave Genoa at 10 a. m., with vettu-
rino and four horses, who, for ten napoleons, delivers
you at Nice. "You stop at Oagoletto, the birthplace
of Columbus, to lunch, reaching Savonna to dine and
sleep about G.
March 26. — Leave Savonna at 8.30; reach Oneglia
at 5.30 to dine and sleep.
March 27. — Leave Oneglia at 9 ; reach Mentone at
5 to dine and sleep.
March 28. — Leave Mentone at 8.30, arriving at Nice
at 1.30, and, taking rail at 3.20, reach Marseilles at
9.05 p. m. (Grand Hotel).
Note. — As the intention of these routes is simply
to be a guide through those countries and {daces not
so well known as others, all details of what to see in
Naples, Home, Florence, Genoa, etc. (with the excep-
tion of the account of the Pallavicini Gardens), have
been omitted here. In fact, upon this journey the
writer merely passed through these cities, having
made long visits to them in previous years.
March 31. — Leave Marseilles at 11.30, reaching
Nismes at 2.25. See the beautiful Maisou Oarree, the
Amphitheatre, and the exquisite Jardin de la Fontaine,
101
itOOTFSLLiXB ] FRANi [hotel nevet.
with superb fountain and Temple of Diana, etc., after
lunch. Leave Nlsmes at 5 ; reaching Montpellier (H6tel
Nevet) at 6.50.
April 1. — Visit the celebrated Jardin Peyrou, quito
the finest in Europe, the water-tower most exquisite,
and the equestrian statue of Louis XIV. as fine as that
of Marcus Aurelius at Rome. The Botanic Garden,
founded by Henry V., in 1598,' very interesting, espe-
cially a Cupressus pendula from Japan, and an avenue
of clipped Judas-trees. The old Moorish porch of the
cathedral, as well as the new Palais de Justice, are very
fine. The Musee of Pictures, especially the smaller
room, one of the most interesting galleries in the world ;
containing 11 Greuses and 11 Tehiers, all in exquisite
order. Leave Montpellier by train at 12.50, reaching
Oette in 30 minutes; lunching at an excellent buffet.
On again by rail at 3, reaching Perpignan at 6.50,
where sup. Taking the first Spanish diligence at 10,
and driving all night, reaching the Spanish frontier at
3 a. M., where luggage is examined. At 10, reach
Geroma, to breakfast, and at 12, taking a train, reach
Barcelona (Hotel de 4 XTaciones) at 3.35.
April 2. — Visit the cathedral, where the instalment
of the Knights of the Golden Fleece took place; very
handsome, especially the stained glass, said to be the
finest in Spain; the churches, Santa Maria del Mar and
Santa Maria del Pino, Casa de la Disputacion, with
some fine old Moorish arches. Drive to the Rambla in
the evening.
April 3. — Leave Barcelona at 8 o'clock (Madrid
time), reaching Tarragona at 11.30, a very ancient and
Spanish-looking city (Hotel Fonda de Faris.) Visit the
102
VALENCIA.] SPA IX. [FONDA DEL CID.
cathedra], the altar being exquisitely finished, as well