as the cloisters, said to be the finest in Spain ; all the
columns being different; one representing in its carving
a cat pursuing some mice — the cat at one portion pre-
tending to be dead, is carried off by the mice to be
buried, but, presently awakening, attacks the mice
right and left.
April 4. — Leave Tarragona at 8, by rail for two hours,
and by diligence, drawn by six mules, for three hours,
passing Tortosa, an ancient Spanish town. Taking a
train about 3, reach Valencia (Fonda del Cid), at
9.30 ; passing through a country cultivated like a
garden.
April 5. — Drive to the old [Moorish palace, now the
silk-mart, very characteristic and interesting. In the
afternoon to the Glorieta, a beautiful drive, with a
charming garden, planted with trimmed box, with
standard orange-trees in full blossom; the flower-beds
gay with tulips and all the early summer flowers.
April G. — Ascend the cathedral, with the finest view
in Spain, 260 steps to the top. Taking train at 2.10,
reach Alicante at 9.50 (Fonda del Vapor).
April 7. — Drive in carriage 4 leagues (2 hours) to
the Arab town of Elche, situated in an oasis of palms,
most Oriental and Asiatic in appearance, from the
palm- and character of the Bedouin-like houses. In the
Church of St. Maria is a statue of a virgin, which is held
in great reputation — often dressed in expensive gar-
ments and jewels, etc. She is even a landed proprietor,
having in her possession the finest palms and orchards,
called "Iluertos de la Virgen" — the produce goes to
pay for her dresses, candles, and the expenses of the
103
r.n:i;.\i.T.\i:.] SPAIN. [CLUBHOUSE.
bo lave her in charge. The view from
the tower, over this oasis of palms, is very Btrik-
AprU 8. — Leave Valencia in steamer at 10 r. m. ;
ing the next day, at a distance, Carthagena and
other towns on the coast, and reaching Malaga at 3 on
morning of the 10th of April (Hotel Victoria).
April 10. — Drive a few miles, to a charming count ry-
place belonging to Mr. Loring, now Marquis of Caridad,
formerly of Boston. The garden beautifully arranged
and planted — araucarias, palms, deodars, etc., only
1 1 years old, immense for their age.
April 11. — Leave Malaga in steamer at a. m. After
a very delightful passage along the coast of Spain, reach
Gibraltar at 4.30 p. m.
April 12. — See the town. "Walk through the gal-
leries in the rock — most extraordinary — 1,400 feet in
height — guns in every direction — 700 in all — 6,000 men
in garrison, provisioned for 7 years. It is supposed that
it is impossible to take Gibraltar, but not impossible for
a fleet to run through the straits, only 12 miles wide.
In the evening in carriage to Europa Point, a most
exquisite drive, not only from the views, but the beau-
tiful plants and gardens on the road — the houses with
pretty English-cottage effect, geraniums growing wild,
and aloes flowering in abundance.
April 13. — Leave Gibraltar in steamer at 7 a. m., and
after another charming voyage by the coast, reach
Cadiz at 4 p. m. ; beautifully situated on a peninsula.
The houses all whitewashed, with green and blue
verandas. The cleanest city in Spain. (Hotel, Fonda
de Paris.)
104
6EVILLE.] SPAIN. [FONDA I)E PA&IS,
Note. — From Gibraltar a very plea&nt excursion
may be made in two or three hours, across the
straits, to Tangier, in Africa; returning next day to
Gibraltar.
April 14. — Leave Cadiz at 6 a. m., passing Xeres at 8
(where you may stop for a later train), and reach Seville
at 10.15 (Fonda de Paris).
April 15. — Visit House of Pontius Pilate, supposed
to be a copy of the original bouse at Jerusalem — thor-
oughly Moorish and Alhambra-like in character, and
very beautiful. Afterward to the Musce, to see the
Murillos, of which the " St. Thomas giving Alms " is
considered the finest; later to the cathedral, by many
considered even more interesting than St. Peter's, the
stained glass being very beautiful, and the carvings to
the two organs most superb.
April 16. — To the Church of La Caridad, where are
four more Murillos; "Moses striking Water from the
Rock" and "The Miracle of the Loaves and Fishes"
being considered the finest. After this to the wonder-
ful Alcazar, the old palace of the Moorish kings, more
perfect in color and restoration than can be easily
imagined.
April 17. — Some of the festivities of Holy Week, as
â– well as the bull-fights, usually commence about this
time, and are well worth seeing; the display during
Holy Week being even greater than at Pome — in fact,
they are of sufficient importance to make it an object
to the traveller to visit Seville during this period,
though it is apt to be very crowded.
April 23. — Leave Seville by train at 10 a. m., reach-
CORDOVA.] i/X [FONDA SUISSE.
ing Cordova at 1.:'." (Fonda Suisse). After lunch,
visit the cathedral, the purest and Lest specimen of
Moorish architecture in Spain; nearly 1,000 columns,
most superb Moorish arches, with gilded and colored
embroidery in plaster.
April 24. — Again visit the cathedral, also to "The
View," with the old Moorish mill, Roman gates, and
Spanish bridge. Taking train at 12, reach Malaga at
G.30 p. M. (Hotel Victoria).
HI 26. — Leave Malaga in diligence and four mules
at 7 a. m., toiling up the mountains for five hours;
wonderful views, with the wildest and most dreary
scenery ; an elevation of 3,000 feet above Malaga ;
reaching Loja to dine and sleep — an old Spanish posa-
da, exactly as it was forty years ago, when Mr. Irving
slept here, and described it.
April 27. — Leaving Loja at 4 a. m. by diligence for
railway station, and by train at 5, reach Granada at
8.30, and the Hotel Washington Irving (at the Alham-
bra) at 0, to breakfast. Make your first visit to the
•Alhambra ; more perfect, delicate, and in better taste,
than the Alcazar at Seville, though very much resem-
bling it, but not so brilliant in colors ; see the various
towers, gardens, and grand views of the Vega and the
Sierra Nevada.
Note. — The rail being probably now finished (1SG9),
it will not be necessary, in coming from Cordova, to go
entirely through to Malaga in order to get to Granada ;
but one can leave the Cordova and Malaga rail at a
point opposite Loja, and thus go entirely through to
Granada by rail.
100
THE ALHAMBBA.] SPAIX. [HOTEL WASH. IRVIXO.
April 28. — To the Alhambra in the morning, and
afterward to the Oertuja, founded by Bruno, with won-
derfully rich marbles from the Sierra Nevada, and
mosaic tables.
April 29. — To the Alhambra in the morning; later
to the Gardens of the Generallif, the old summer-
palace of the caliphs, beautifully kept up, and the trees
(cypress) very curiously trained ; charming roses and
beautiful streams of water in every direction. In the
palace is a very attractive portrait of Boabdil, the last
Moorish king, with a mild and pleasant face, and also
of all the Moorish and Christian kings and queens.
April 30. — To the royal chapel in the town of Gra-
nada, seeing the beautiful tombs of Ferdinand and Isa-
bella, also of Philip le Bel and Crazy Jane, his wife, as
well as the sword, crown, and sceptre, of Isabella. In
the afternoon drive to the spot where Isabella erected
a church in commemoration of her escape from the
Moors on the capture of Granada, by concealing her-
self in a laurel-bush, which still exists. In evening
visit at the Alhambra, the towers of the Captive Prin-
cess, and the three Princesses Zaida, Zoraida, and Zo-
raihaida, so beautifully told by Washington Irving ;
also the Mosquita, a little imitation of a Moorish
mosque, built by a Spanish colonel.
May 3. — Leaving the Alhambra at 4 a. m. by car-
riage for the town below, take the diligence and 10
mules, breakfasting at 10 a. m. in a curious old po
at Jaen, and arriving at Menzibar at 4.30 r. m. Here
dine at station, and, taking rail at 6 r. m., reach Madrid
next morning at G.30 (Fonda de Paris).
May 4. — Drive round the town and to the magnifi-
107
MADKID.] SPAIN. [FONDA DE PAlUS.
cent museum of pictures, wonderfnl in its collection
of Murillos and Velasquez ; also to the Armeria,
seeing the splendid collection of armor and arms. In
the afternoon, drive in the Prado.
May 5. — To the Gallery; later, palace and stables,
containing 150 splendid horses — some magnificent
Andalusians ; hot and cold baths for the horses. In
the carriage-houses are nearly 100 carriages, of different
styles. In the afternoon to Toledo, returning to Mad-
rid next day.
May 6. — Taking train at 8.30, reach the. famous
Escurial at 10.30. This wonderful combination of
palace and mausoleum, built by Philip II. in 1567 (the
resting-place of himself, as well as that of his father,
Charles V.), cost, it is said, £800,000; contains 1G
courts, 40 altars, 1,111 windows inside and 1,560 out-
side, 12,000 doors, 15 cloisters, 86 staircases, 3,000 feet
of fresco, 89 fountains, and 32 leagues (160 miles) of
surface. Nothing can well be more severe or gloomy,
especially the little dark cell opening into the church,
where Philip died. A portion of the palace, some-
times used by the present queen (since driven from
the kingdom), is lovely — the walls, doors, and ceilings,
exquisitely inlaid in marquetrie ; the tapestry also very
wonderful, many of the designs by Teniers being still
perfectly fresh. The Casa del Principe is also a charm-
ing little palace, the walls and ceilings being exquisitely
decorated. Return to Madrid at 8.30 p. m.
May 11. — Leave Madrid by train at 3.30, reaching
Biarritz at noon next day (Hotel de France).
May 13. — Leave Biarritz at 12, reaching Bordeaux
(Ilotel de France) at 5.30.
103
tours.] FRANCE. [hotel de l' universe.
May 15. — Leave Bordeaux at 9.30 by rail, reaching
Tours (Hotel de l'Universe) at 5. Beautiful excursions
maybe made from Tours to the great chateaux of Am-
broise, Blois, Chaumont, Chambord, etc., etc.
May 17. — Leave Tours at 11.30 by rail, reaching
Paris (Hotel Bristol) at 4.40.
Xote. — The journey from Malta through Sicily anil
Spain occupied about three months ; the actual jour-
ney through Spain a little over six -weeks, at a cost,
for four persons and one servant, of eight thousand
francs — say sixteen hundred dollars in gold.
10 109
INDEX.
Aak. 84.
Aalsund, 84
Abbotst'ord. 17.
Aberdeen, 22.
AberfeWie, 31.
Aberfoil, IS.
Abergwili, 67.
Aberystwith, 69.
Abinger, 74.
Abo, 90.
Acbnacarry, 20.
Aldowrie, 20.
Alhambra, 106.
Alicante. 103.
.Althorp. 61.
Altona. 79.
Alton Towers, 33.
Alum Bay, 51.
Ambleside, 14.
Ampthill, 55.
Amsterdam, 78.
Aimesley Hall, 28.
Aristey'B Cove, 41.
Antwerp. 77.
Appcldercombe, 51.
Ardeseraig, 19.
Arra Force, 16.
Arundel Castle, 50.
Audley End, 56.
Babbicomb, 41.
Badminton. 39.
Bakewell. 32.
Ballycluig, 21.
Ballock. 18.
Balmoral. 22.
B.uiavie. 19.
Bangor. 12.
Barcelona, 102.
Barncluith, 19.
Basingstoke, 43.
Batb,38.
I Beaumaris Castle, 12.
[ Bellevue, 88.
! Belmont. 8.
Belvoir Castle, 27.
Ben Nevis, 19.
Bergen, 84.
BerPin, 94.
Berrv Pomeroy Castle, 41.
Biarritz, 108.
Bicton. 40.
Birnam Wood. 21.
Black Rock Castle, 7.
Blackwater, 8.
Blair Castle, 21.
Blaize Castle. 65.
Blarney Castle, 7.
Blenheim, 52.
Bodo, 82.
Bonchurch, 51.
Bowness, 14.
Bordeaux. 108.
Borjund, 85.
Boston. 27.
Boughton House. CO.
Bowder Stone. 15.
Bowood, 39, 64.
Bray. 11.
Brighton, 50.
Brinkinalt, 69.
Brixton. 51.
Brcek, 78.
Brreuihau^en, 81.
Bromham Church, 04.
Brother's Lake, 16.
Brougham Hall, 16.
Bruges. 77.
Brussels. 94.
Buckingham. 53.
Burleigh House, 59,
Cadiz, 104.
Cadzow, 19.
110
INDEX.
Cagoletto, 101.
Caflender, is.
Cambridge, 5(i.
Canterbury, 45.
Cappoqtiin, 8.
Cardiff-, 07.
Craisbrook, 51.
Carmarthen, 07.
Carnarvon, 12.
Carton, 11.
Castle Ashby, 61.
Castle Howard, 24.
Catania. 95.
Cawdor Castle, 29.
Cette, 102.
Chariecote, 36.
Chatsworth. 32.
Chepstow, 00.
Chester. 12.
Chichester, 50.
Chippingham, 39.
Chirk Castle, 69.
Cheltenham. 37.
Christiania, 79.
Christiansimd, 83.
Cleifden, 63.
Clearwell, 66.
Clifton, 65.
Clipstone Park, 26.
Clumber, ~0.
Clyde, lit.
Cobham House, 45.
Codrington Hall, 39.
Cologne, 94.
Congletoh, 32.
Copenhagen, 79.
Cordova,"l00.
Cork, 7.
Corsbam House, 39.
Crinan Canal, lit.
Cromwell's Bridge, 9.
Cronstadt. 90.
Cmok's House. 16.
Crummock Lake, 16.
Culloden, 20.
Cumberland Cavern, 31.
Dalkeith, 22.
Dawlish, 41.
Deene Park, GO.
Deepdene, 74.
Deer Park. 79.
Denbies, 71.
Derby, 28.
Derwent Water, 13.
Devizes, 64, 65.
Docray. 16.
Dorlshtraorc, 19.
Dorking, 74.
Dort, 78.
Dovrefjeld. 81.
Downton Castle, 71.
Downton Hall, 72.
Dropmore, 62.
Drottingholm, 88.
Drvburgh, 17.
Drvslyhn Castle, 67.
Dublin, 11.
Dumbarton, 19.
Dunoon, 19.
Dunstable, 61.
Durham, 23.
Dusseldorf, 78.
Dynevor Castle, 67.
East Cowes, 52.
Eastgate House, 45.
Eaton Hall, 18.
Edinburgh, 17, 22.
Eide. 84.
Eishalt, 80.
Elche, 103.
Ellen's Isle, 18.
Ellery, 15.
Elvaeton Castle, 28.
Enville Hall, 72.
ErlstokePark, C4.
Escurial, 108.
Fagemres, SO.
Farming Woods. 00.
FarringYord lion-''. 51.
Father Matthew, 8.
Fermoy, 8.
Fille Fjeld. 86.
Florence, 98.
Fountain Abbey, 23.
Foyers, 20.
Freshwater, 51.
Gad's-hill House, 45.
Gap ot'Dunloe, 10.
Gates Grath, 16.
Genoa, us.
Geroma, 102.
Ghent, 77.
Giant's Causeway, 12.
Gibraltar, 104.
Glasgow, 18.
Glengarin, 9.
Glenquoicb, 21.
Ill
IXDEX.
Gloucester, 38.
Golden Grove, 67.
Qongane-Barra, 9.
Goodrich Castle and Court. 37.
Goodwood. 50.
Gotha Canal. 87.
Gottenbnrg, 79, 87.
G<»w-Barrow Park, 1G.
Granada, 106.
Grand Tully, 21, 22.
Grantham, 27.
Grassmere, 15.
Greenock, 19.
Greta Hal!, 16.
Gudbransclalen, 80.
Gudvangen, 85.
Guy's Cliff, 35.
Haddon Hall, 31.
Ha?g, 85.
Hagley, 35,72.
Hague, 78.
Hamburg, 78.
Hamilton Palace, 18.
Hammerfest, 82.
Hanover, 78.
Hardanger Fjord, 84.
Harleston, 61.
Harrogate, 24.
Harrow-on-the-Hill, 62.
Hatfield House, 61.
Haworth, 25.
Heilfoss, 85.
Henbury Cottages, 65.
Herbert. 10.
Hereford. 37.
Hesslington Hall. 24.
Hest MansOen, 82.
Hisrhnam Court. 38.
Holkham, 59.
Holm Lacev, 37.
Holyhead, 12.
Honister Pass. 16.
Hoole House, 13.
Houghton House. 58.
Huntsman's Leap, 68.
Inchigeelagh, 9.
Ingestrie, 34.
Innisfallen, 10.
Inverlochy Castle, 19.
Invergarry Castle, 20.
Inverness, 20.
Jaen. 107.
Jerkin, 81.
Juniper Hall, 74.
Kate Kearney, 10.
Keeiman Eign, 9.
Keighley, 25.
Kenihvorth, 36.
Kenmare, 9.
Kerry. 9.
Keswick, 15.
Kettering, 60.
Kidderminster, 72.
Kiel, 79.
Killarney, 10.
Killiecrankie. 21.
King's Lynn. 57.
Kingstown. 12.
Kirkstone. 16.
Knolle. 46.
Knowsley. 13.
KorsOe, 79.
Krogleven. 86.
Kyle of Bute, 19.
Lserdalsoren, 85.
Lampbey. 68.
Landlilo. 67.
Lacock, 39.
Lea, 7.
Lea Castle. 73.
Lea Hurst, 31.
Leamington. 35.
Leasowes, 72.
Leeds. 85.
Legerthrait. lo.
Leghorn, 98.
Leigh, 7.
Levens Hall. 14.
Lichfield. 35.
Lilliehamnier, 80.
Limerick. 10.
Lincoln. 27.
Lipari, 96.
Lismore. 8.
Liverpool, 13.
Llanberris, 12.
Llangollen, 70.
Locbiel, 20.
Loch Katrine. 18.
Loch Lochy. 20.
Loch Lomond. IS.
Loch Ness. 20.
Loch Oich, 20.
Loja, 106.
Longleat. 64.
Longmuir. 29.
London. 63.
112
INDEX.
Lowdore Falls, 16.
Lowther Castle, 17.
Ludlow. 71.
Luscomb. 41.
Lyulph's Tower, 13.
Macbeth Castle, 20.
Macclesfield. 32.
Madresfield Court. 37.
Madrid. 107.
Malaga, 104, 106.
Malar Lake, 83.
Mallory, 8.
Malvern. 37.
Mamhead, 41.
Manorbeer, 68.
Margate, 45.
Marlborough, 65.
Marquis ofGrauby Iun, 74.
Marseilles, 95.
Malta, 95.
Matterdale, 16.
Matlock, 31.
Mavnootb, 11.
Melrose, IT.
Menai Bridge, 12.
Meutone, 101.
Meuzibar, 107.
Menzies, 21.
Messina, 96.
Middleton Park. 67.
Midnight sun, 82.
Milton Abbey, 59.
Molasso. 96.
Molde, 83.
Monmouth. 60.
Montpellier, 102.
Moor Park. 72.
Moscow, 90.
Mount Etna, 96.
Njerodal. 85.
Namsoe. 82.
Naples, 98.
Needles. 51.
Newland Vide, 16.
Newport, 52.
Newstead Abbey, 27.
Nice, 101.
Nismes, 101.
Northampton. 60.
Northcourt, 51.
Nottingham, 27.
Nv-orne-i-npdal, 81.
Nystuen, 84
Oakley Park, 71.
Oban, 19.
Odde, 85.
Oilde. 86.
Oneglia, 101.
Ormein, 84.
Osborne 52.
Oscarhalle, 80.
Ostend,77.
O'Sullivan's Cascade, 10.
Oswestrv. 69.
Oxford, 52, 73.
Palermo, 96.
Paris, 94.
Park Hall. 69.
Patterdale, 16.
Paulovsky. 93.
Pembroke. 68.
Penrith, 16.
Penryn. 12.
Pcnshurst, 47.
Perpignan, 102.
Perth, 22.
Peterborough, 59.
Peterhoff, 90.
Phoenix Park. 11.
Piercefield, 66.
Pike. 8.
Pisa, 9-i.
Plas Newydd, 12.
Pokington. 69.
Port-mouth. 50.
Powerscourt. 11.
Prior Park. 40.
Palsden, 75.
Punch-bowl, 68.
Queen stown, 7.
Raglan Castle, 66.
Raise Gap, 15.
Raleigh, 8.
Kams^ate. 45.
Rands Fiord, 80.
Redleaf. 48.
Ripon, 23.
Rochester, 45.
Rome. 98.
Romsdalen, 84
Rookery, 74.
Rorthrait, 16.
Rosenbur-:. 79.
Rosendal. 88.
Ross, 10, 37.
113
INDEX.
Rotherham. 85,
Rothesay, 19.
Rugbj
Ragefy, 84.
Rydal, 15.
Ryde, 51.
Rushton, GO.
Salisbury. 42.
Bandon, 34.
Sandringham, 57.
Sarum, 42.
Savenack, 65.
Savonna, 101.
Scarborough, 24.
Scylla, 96.
Setollers, 16.
Seven Sisters, 82.
Sbanklin, 51.
Sheffield, 25.
Sherwood, 26.
Shrewsbury. 60.
Shugborougu, 34.
Skjeggestad, 80.
Skjieggefoss, 85.
Skoien, 86.
Skogstad, 86.
Skokloster, 88.
Sloperton, 64.
Sueehatten. 81.
Snowdon, 12.
Southam, 38.
Southampton, 52.
Stackpole Court, 68.
Stacks, 68.
Stafford. 34.
Stalheim, 85.
Stamford. 59.
Stirling. 17.
Stockholm, 87.
Stoke, 38.
Stoke Pogis. 62.
Stonehenge. 42.
Stoneleitrh Abbey, 3G.
StOren, 81.
Stowe, 53.
Strada Florida, 68.
Stratford. 36.
Strathfieldsaye, 43.
Stromboli. 96.
Studley Royal, 23.
St. Albans, 62.
St. Gtovan's. 68.
St. John's Vale. 16.
St. Leonard's, 49.
st. Petersburg, 90, 92.
Syracuse, 05. ,
Tangier, 105.
Tarragona, 102.
Taymouth, 22.
Tenby, 67.
Thief Fjeld, S3.
Therlmere. 15.
Thoresby, 26.
Threlkeld. 16.
Tintern, 66.
Tisbury, 42.
Tixall, 34.
Toledo, 108.
Toraboda, 87.
Torghatten, 82.
Torquay. 41.
Tortosa. 103.
Tours, 109.
Trentham, 33.
Trolbsettan, 87.
TromsOe. 82.
Trondbjem, 80, 83.
Trossachs, 18.
Troy House. 66.
Tunbridge Wells, 46.
Ty Gwyri, 67.
UlPwater, 16.
Ulvic, 84.
Upsala, SO.
Urquart Castle, 20.
Utue, S5.
Valencia, 103.
Valle Cruris Abbey, 70.
VeblunfrsruESset, 84.
Veitcli.40.
Ventnor. 51.
Viborsr, 80.
Vik. 84.
Villa Pallavicini, OS.
Voringfoss. 84
Vbssevangen, 85.
Viig, 80.
Wardour Castle, 42.
Warwick, 35.
Watcomb. 41.
Welbeck Abbey, 26.
Wcntwortb House. 25.
West Cowes, 52.
114
IXDEX.
Westwell Hall, 27.
Wfflersley Hall, 31.
Wilton House, 42.
Winchester, 43.
Windermere, 14.
Windsor. 62.
Winefield Manor-house, 31.
Wuiiaton Hull. 2S.
Wolseley Hall, 35
Worcester, 36.
Xeres, 105.
' Yarmouth, 51.
York. 24.
Youglial, 8.
115
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