horses plunging into disordered and
broken ranks, while burning buildings,
bursting shells, shattered gun-carriages
and moving ambulances could be seen
in various directions. It seemed as
though we could almost hear the roar
of the artillery, the shout of the victo-
rious and the shrieks of the wounded
and the moans of the expiring.
We never before had such a realizing
sense of the horrors of war, as while
standing there in the midst of thous-
ands of brave soldiers who were wildly
rushing forward to the slaughter of their
brethern, as innocent as themselves.
There were the commanding officers
with their hands uplifted giving direc-
tions to officers beneath them.
Away in the distance was the army
of Blucher coming to decide the heart-
114 Camping Out in California.
rending contest and send the brave
Napoleon away into exile.
As we gazed upon that raging battle
and beheld the falling and splintered
trees, the puffs of white smoke from
the mouths of the muskets and can-
nons, the flattened fences, the fresh
earth torn and riddled by grape and
cannister, and the fields of grain
turned into blood-stained couches for
the thousands who have been torn and
butchered and mangled, not by wild
beasts, not by the devastating tornado,
not by the railroad disaster, but by in-
telligent and educated gentlemen, we
felt to ask with David, "What is
"Oh tell me can it be on earth,
Such scenes of horror have their birth?"
How earnestly should Christians
pray for the coining forth of that glo-
rious day when the nations shall learn
war no more because the earth will be
filled with the knowledge of God. It
seemed wonderful indeed that a paint-
Sight-seeing in San Francisco. 115
ing could be made no perfect and so
Near where we stood was the natural
ground on which was scattered arms,
knapsacks, canteens, clothing and
We never knew before that manza-
nita bushes grew in Belgium and on
the field of Waterloo. It was difficult
to tell where the ground ended and the
After coming out, and standing again
on the street, we looked upon the build-
ing and wondered how such a vast scene
could be contained in a brick house
which occupied only a portion of a
block. We could scarcely realize that
the vast country over which we had
been looking, apparently several miles
in each direction, was contained in
Our young friends desired to visit
the Golden Gate Park and the Cliff
House, consequently we took the cable
car and started for those popular places
116 Camping Out in California.
of entertainment and recreation.
Now we find ourselves seated in an
open car, to which neither horse nor
engine is attached, and moving swiftly
along the middle of the street.
Linnie wanted to know what was
hauling the car, and Harry said "It
just goes itself." When we went glid-
ing up a hill he remarked, "It must be,
a strong car to haul itself and so many
On reaching the Park we found a
delightful resort, especially for those
whose homes and places of business are
wedged in among the buildings and
blocks of the city.
Fine carriages were rolling on the
principal avenues, and many ladies
and gentlemen were leisurely strolling
along the graveled walks or resting in
comfortable seats beneath the shade,
while happy children walked hand in
hand as with their joyous prattle they
seemed to add additional happiness to
their parents and friends.
Sight-seeing in San Francisco. 117
Our young folks were much inter-
ested in the statue of General Garfield.
They thought it looked so noble and life-
like, and they were loath to turn their
eyes away from the monument of the
good, wise and patriotic President who
had been so shamefully murdered.
The conservatory a large glass
building is one of the most interest-
ing and pleasant places we have ever
visited. We seemed to be walking
among the petals of some gigantic blos-
som that had bloomed on the sun and
been brought by some flower-loving
angel to this lower world to refresh and
comfort the weary sons and daughters
Enveloped in a cloud of perfume
that was almost suffocating we won-
dered if earth could afford a lovelier and
It seems to me that any attempt to
describe the flowers, and plants with
all their variety of richness, delicacy
and beauty, would be a failure.
118 Camping Out in California.
While looking upon some of those
wonderful plants we felt compelled to
say, "Entreat me not to leave thee."
Indeed we could have lingered there
for several hours, had we not been re-
minded of the fact that " time flies."
As we left that translucent mansion
that seemed almost ready to burst with
sweetness, we never expected to stand
in a more lovely place on this side of
Jordan. Over there, however, we hope
to find this conservatory equaled if not
The girls would like to have gath-
ered a bouquet, but those flowers were
too precious for ordinary use.
From the Park we took the dummy
and went to the Cliff House. The road
ran most of the way through dry,
dreary, sand hills which Harry said
were beautiful. Some of the ladies
laughed at the child's idea of beauty,
and he added, "beautiful to play in."
We were told that a large portion of
the ground on which the city stands
Sight-seeing in San Francisco. 119
was once covered with such sand dunes
In a few moments we find ourselves
again standing face to face with the
Pacific, looking far out over the "laugh-
ing water" in the direction of China.
Although there was no forest, hill or
mountain to obstruct our vision, our
eyes were not quite large enough to see
the land of the Celestials.
Here we stand on a cliff which over-
hangs the sea, and just beyond are the
islets of rock which rise above the
waves and are known as the renowned
Here are scores of sea-lions, some on
the higher rocks basking in the sun-
shine, some climbing the ledges, and
others tumbling in the water below.
It is both interesting and amusing to
watch through a spy-glass these awk-
ward and clumsy creatures as they rise
from their watery dens and climb with
an air of independence the recessed
walls of their old wave-washed castles,
120 Camping Out in California.
which are safely moored in the depths
below. Those seals, as if aware of the
fact that they are protected by the laws
of the land, seem altogether independ-
ent and indifferent to the presence of
man, moving with boldness and sleep-
ing in safety.
They are of various sizes; the largest
would weigh, perhaps, three hundred
pound. They have large eyes, small
web feet, and very small heads, and
although so slow and clumsy on the
rocks, in the water they shoot back and
forth like arrows in the air, apparently
as much at home as the salmon or cod.
Although they growl and bark and oc-
casionally when disputing the priority
of right to some desirable location,
strike and bite each other, they seem
to enjoy life better than some human
beings we have known.
There were also many huge birds
which claimed an interest in those rocky
abodes of the sea. Great pelicans were
flapping their wings, while numerous
Sight-seeing in San Francisco. 121
gulls were resting on the higher pinna-
cles or spreading their sails to the ocean
From the Cliff House we passed up
to Sutro Heights, and having no de-
scription of this resort, we were agree-
ably surprised as we entered the gate,
to find ourselves within what appeared
a beautiful garden. Following a broad
walk which was fringed with gerani-
ums, heliotropes, fuchsias, pansies and
other flowers that were unusually large
and brilliant, and stopping now and
again to admire some interesting
statue, we passed along to the right,
through a miniature park, where carven
deer, dogs and other animals were lying
on the grass, and found ourselves on the
highest point where we could look away
down to the Cliff House. There was a
railing and statues a short distance
apart all around this height, After
resting a few minutes we climbed to
the top of an adjoining building, when
one said, "What a glorious view we
122 Camping Out in California.
would have of the distant islands were
it not for that bank of fog away in the
western horizon." But the hank seem-
ed to he immovable, and we have that
view left for some future time.
From this height a flight of stairs led
down the opposite side, and following
another path we came to a circle of gro-
tesque images, which the children
thought must be to represent some of
the fairy tales they had read. There
is also a conservatory here, which, al-
though inferior to the one at the Park,
is filled with rare and beautiful plants
and flowers, interspersed with statu-
At the door Harry cried, "Oh, look,
how pretty the sea and everything else
is, it is red as if it was a big fire."
Eda looking through the same door
said, "Why, Harry, it is all a bright
To me everything looked as blue as
it does on a "blue Monday." But, so
it is through life, the world generally
Sight-seeing in San Francisco. 123
looks to us about the color of the glass
through, which we view it.
For several hours we wandered
through the labyrinthine paths and
found new beauty in art and nature on
every side. Here it would be a large
group of dahlias of every shade and
color and magnificent in size, and at
the next turn a bed of gorgeous hued
gladioli greeted our admiring eyes;
and when compelled to leave we won-
dered how long we could have roamed
through this attractive place finding
pleasant things to admire.
But we could not tarry all the time
in the pleasing portions of San Fran-
cisco, so turned to that which is con-
sidered the "plague spot," Chinatown.
Passing from the bustling throngs of
English-clad people of Market and
Kearny streets to the foreign dressed
crowds of Dupont, had it not been that
the buildings were decidedly American,
we could easily have imagined ourselves
in another land.
124 Camping Out in California.
Among the many foreign curios dis-
played in the shop windows we noticed
pagodas, vessels, and other articles of
carved ivory which were very beautiful.
The china was as delicately tinted
as the petals of a rose and so frail and
delicate that it seemed as if it might be
crushed as easily as an egg shell.
We stepped into one of the art stores
and were disappointed, for the choice
pictures were but an elaboration of the
ones to be seen on their fans and tea-
chests. Their drugs and medicines
were in packages instead of bottles, and
the customers undergoing operations in
the barber-shop had a very ludicrous
.appearance, and the younger members
of our party thought nothing less than
a photograph could do them justice.
There were children playing on the
streets who were dressed like the older
persons, but they were neither so noisy
or as obtrusive as "Young America."
In a little room under a store we saw
a mother playing with a tiny babe
Sight- seeing in San Francisco. 125
while another small child was leaning
against her knee.
A fond father brought out his two
year old son for us to admire. In
answer to the query if he could talk, he
proudly answered in the affirmative,
but when asked if the child could speak
our language, he shook his head say-
ing "He no sabe 'Melican."
Among the vegetables we saw many
that were new to us; one resembling the
seed-pod of milkweed, we were told was
a Chinese cucumber. In their meat
market we saw meat and fish that had
been shipped from China, and a large
roasted hog was hanging there Trom
which they were cutting slices for cus-
tomers. It might have been very
choice but we instantly lost all desire
for roast pork.
We noticed some objects resembling
biscuits that were for sale. One of the
girls exclaimed "Biscuits for breakfast ;"
at the same time she touched one, and
her finger went nearly through it, she
126 Camping Out in California.
said "Oh, I don't want any of them."
We did not have time to go to their
theatre or "Joss house," but we visited
the Bon Ton restaurant. It was finely
ornamented with bright and shining
brass work and the large chandeliers
were sparklingjwith many prisms. In-
stead of chairs they used stools and in
each room was a recess and two wooden
pillows. These recesses must be very
convenient for "John" when he eats
too hard or too much he can lie down
We saw them gathered around their
.-gaming table gesticulating vehemently,
but we saw neither whiskey-bottles nor
-glasses, nor did we hear the loud up-
roar or oaths which issue from the
gambling dens of those who say "The
'Chinese must go."
Leaving Chinatown we returned to
Market street, and on our way to the
wharf we noticed the wonderful Palace
Hotel. This is a magnificent building,
said to be the largest hotel in the
Sight-seeing in San Francisco. 127
world, having accommodations for
twelve hundred guests. It is seven
stories high, and three hundred and
fifty by two hundred and seventy feet
on the ground and it cost about five
hundred thousand dollars to furnish it.
The cost of the building was one mil-
lion seven hundred and fifty thousand
dollars, and the ground on which it
stands cost one million, making an ag-
gregate of three million two hundred
and fifty thousand dollars.
In passing along the principal streets
we were continually jostled by the
crowds, some of whom were moving
with us and some in the opposite di-
rection, while the street-cars, drays and
carriages were so crowded together that
one would naturally expect a continual
coming in contact with each other, re-
sulting in broken limbs, frightened
horses, and splintered vehicles. But
strange to say there was nothing of the
kind. They moved among each other
with nearly as much system as the
128 Camping Out in California.
stars move in the heavens. Horses
as truly as drivers seemed to under-
stand the art of moving through the
unoccupied spaces with care and cau-
tion. It was interesting to watch the
stream of men, women and children
that marched with a continual tramp
down Market street toward the ferries.
We were in the crowd but felt so
small we could scarcely find ourselves
until we were on the deck of the
steamer, and startled by the loud voice
of the engine as the boat pulled out
from the wharf.
Before leaving the landing, however,
our young fellow-travelers went on
board the Victoria, a large ship about
three hundred feet long. The seamen
were very kind and gentlemanly, tak-
ing them around through the great
craft that travels the "wild and stormy
Will said he would like to be a sailor,
but Harry thought there was danger of
getting upset over a whale's back.
SANTA CLARA VALLEY.
Returning to San Rafael we bade our
friends farewell and, after a half day's
drive, were on our old gypsy camping
ground in the suburb of Petaluma.
On the following day we had a pleas-
ant drive to Sonoma, a neat little berg
in one of California's pleasant valleys.
Here Linnie was fortunate enough
to find an aunt whom she had never
met before. We remained in Sonoma
until the next day so that Linnie might
enjoy a pleasant visit with her new
found cousins, who seemed to be very
amiable young people. When we were
ready to resume our journey Linnie
told us not to wait for her, that she
would overtake us after a while.
We passed over a low mountain, and
130 Camping Out in California.
about noon reached the Napa Valley.
As the sun was very hot we camped in
the shadow of a large oak, and had
barely made ready our lunch, when
Linnie and one of her cousins drove up
in a fine buggy, and we all enjoyed "a
feast of fat things/' (squirrels and
quails) which our persevering hunts-
men had killed while crossing the
range. Linnie spent a portion of the
afternoon in riding through the princi-
pal streets of Napa, and then the young
cousins bade each other farewell.
From Napa we went to Vallejo.
Most of the way we found the road
good; at one place, however, several
men were repairing a bridge, and we
were compelled to take another road
and go a number of miles out of the
regular way and over a high hill, where
wo found the road to be very rough,
although passing through a beautiful
neighborhood with an excellent class
When we reached Vallejo the sun
Santa Clara Valley. 131
was going down, and we began to look
around for a place to camp. As soon
as our canvas cover was discovered,
children came from all directions, and
escorted us to a corner lot where an old
building had been torn down, and where
the rank and tangled weeds made it ap-
pear like a little swamp. By the time
our tent was up we were surrounded by
boys and girls. They climbed in the
wagon, crowded into the tent, and some
perched themselves on the horses'
backs; and, judging from their ques-
tions as to where we came from and
where we were going, we concluded
that they had never had much experi-
ence in regard to camp life. Some of
them remained with us until about ten
o'clock, and then went home by the
glowing light of the twinkling stars.
The next morning we visited the
navy-yard on Mare Island, and saw
some wonderful machinery, piles of can-
non balls and many large guns. We also
saw the cannon that sank the Alabama.
132 Camping Oat in California.
Several war vessels were in the har-
bor apparently all ready for action;
but we hoped that they might die of
old age and go to decay without an
opportunity of fighting other men-of-
war. Besides the sectional floating
dock, which to us was quite a curiosity,
there were many other places of inter-
est where we might have spent a much
longer time with profit and enjoyment.
Returning to our tent late in the after-
noon we drove four miles to Benicia,
another prosperous town situated on
the Bay. Here we were shown an
open field that was covered with fresh
grass, and told that it was free for
campers. In this field we were soon
comfortably situated, while our horses
were feasting on the rich grass, looking
as happy as though they had discover-
ed a bonanza.
Harry found a bird's nest with four
tiny, unfledged birds, and we all ac-
cepted an invitation to go and see them,
he leading the way. But the old birds
Santa Clara Valley. 133
did not enjoy our visit, they flew around
our heads and cried piteously, hegging
us to leave, despite Harry's repeated
assurances that they should not be
' After the sun went down the wind
began to blow furiously, and in a short
time it win very cold.
About the middle of the night, it
seemed that our tent would "make to
itself wings and fly away," and leave
us unprotected from the roaring temp-
est. The boys put the break on the
wagon to keep it from being blown
into San Pablo Bay. Will drove the
stakes of our tent farther into the
ground so as to make it more secure.
But the wind continued to blow with
more and more force, until near the
dawn of day, when the stakes on the
windward side drew out, and our tent
came down, fluttering like the torn sails
of a vessel in a severe storm.
There we were in the cold wind and
the darkness of night, endeavoring to
134 Camping Out in California.
re-establish around us the walls that
had fallen to the earth.
In our efforts to erect our demolished
tent, which fluttered over our heads
like a vicious bird of prey seeking to
devour its victims, we realized that ttfo
much sail was not good for weak ves-
sels, as we w r ere pulled from our moor-
ings, jostled against each other and
tumbled on the ground, "heaps on
We were chilled and nearly dis-
couraged, but Will said, "If at first
you don't succeed, try, try again;" so
we continued trying until we succeeded,,
but our tent had several such windows
(wind dcors) as the Kansas pre-emptor
has in his cabin when he goes to prove
up on his land.
During the excitement, the bottle
which contained our antidote for snake
bites was broken, and our tent and
bedding became permeated with the
conte'nts. If a stranger had happened
along at that time, and seen our per-
Santa Clara Valley. 135
formances and smelt the medicine, he
would not have taken us for Good
As for snakes, we are inclined to
think they all left, we did not see any
for several days. After we had made
the tent secure the grey light of morn-
ing could be seen and being hungry we
preferred breakfast to sleep. That
morning we were in no hurry to start,
as the wind continued to blow and we
did not feel very vivacious after, (as
Will said,) having such a spree in the
About the middle of the forenoon we
drove oiir team on board the ferry-
boat and were on our way to Martinez.
As we left the wharf we noticed the
huge boat coming from Port Costa
bringing a long train of cars. It in-
deed seemed wonderful that a train of
twenty or thirty cars, all loaded with
freight and hundreds of passengers,
could run on a boat and sail in a few
moments across the bay to continue
136 Camping Out in, California.
its lightning speed on the other side.
After landing at Martinez and driv-
ing through the town which seemed
like a tidy little place of three or four
hundred inhabitants, we stopped for
On the left side of the road the fire
had just swept over a vast region burn-
ing fences and large quantities of hay
We built our camp-fire on the burnt
ground a short distance from tho road,
where any person could see that it was
impossible for it to do any damage, yet
several men and one or two women
came from their houses and fields tell-
ing us to "look out for that fire."
And from passing wagons we were
cautioned to u be careful of that fire."
One said, "be sure and put out every
spark." We soon learned why we were
so sharply cautioned and warned. The
fire that had just swept hundreds of
acres was started by some careless
campers. Had we known the bitter
Santa Clara Valley. 137
feeling that existed against campers we
would not have dared kindle a fire on
On the right-hand side of the road
was a neat farm cottage standing in
the midst of a flourishing vineyard.
Eda took a pail and went through the
vineyard to the house for some water
and soon returned bringing instead of
water the pail full of milk which the
lady of the house gave her.
May that kind good woman live long
and have all the rich milk and cream
she desires. We had a good old-fash-
ioned bread and milk lunch, and the
boys drank what was left. They said
it tasted so good they thought it must
be Jersey cow's milk.
After lunch we had driven only a
few miles before we noticed a decided
change in the weather. Our horses
were wet with sweat and the only fan
we had was kept in vigorous motion.
While passing over a hill, Ben went
to a cottage that was perhaps an him-
138 Camping Oat in California.
dred yards from the road for some
water. He passed around on the oppo-
site side of the house and we waited in
the hot sun several minutes wondering
why he was so delayed
After awhile we saw him running
towards the wagon with the empty pail
and a vicious dog behind him. He
forgot all about the gate and came the
nearest way, going over the picket
fence with the agility of a cat in the
same situation. Just as he cleared the
fence a young lady called the dog, at
the same time telling Ben to come for
the water as the dog would not bite
The other boys and the girls remind-
ed Ben occasionally of his hasty retreat
and his peculiar style of climbing
A little before sundown we reached
Danville, situated in a rich farming
country filled with an enterprising and
religious class of people.
While driving through the town we
Santa Clara Valley. 139
saw a tall gentleman of clerical ap-
pearance, and one of our company ask-
ed him if he could give us information
as to where we could find a comforta-
ble place to camp over the Sabbath.
He answered in the affirmative and
in a few moments obtained permission
from one of the trustees for us to camp
in the school yard beneath a delightful
grove of walnut and locust trees.
The next day we heard this gentle-
man preach an unusually thrilling and
touching sermon which gave us to un-
derstand why he had been such a suc-
cessful and popular pastor. This broth-
er had just resigned his work on ac-
count of his health, and, if I remember
correctly, this was his farewell sermon.
During a pastorate of ten years he