ton, Makerston, part of Kelso, Ednam, and Eccles ;
and, on its right bank, are Yarrow, Selkirk, the an-
nexed part of Galashiels, the smaller part of Melrose-,
St. Boswell's, Maxton, Roxburgh, part of Kelso, and
Sprouston. Its minor tributaries here are only be-
tween twenty and thirty ; and the chief of its larger
tributaries, fiom the north, are the Cadon, between
Stow and Galashiels ; the Gala, between Galashiels
and Melrose; the Allan, in Melrose; the Leader,
between Melrose and Merton ; and the Eden, in
Ednam ; — and, from the south, are the Ettrick, be-
tween Selkirk and Galashiels; and the Teviot, at
the town of Kelso, — the former previously augment-
ed by the Yarrow, and the latter by far the largest
of the Tweed's tributaries, and almost a rival of its
upper stream in importance. After leaving Rox-
burghshire the Tweed is but partially a Scottish
river; it divides Berwickshire from England till
within 4^ miles of the sea, and then bids adieu to
Scotland, and runs between England and the Liber-
ties of Berwick. Its course for 4 or 5 miles after
leaving Roxburghshire, and again for about 5 miles
before entering the sea, is eastward ; and over the in-
termediate distance it is in the direction of north-east
by north. The Berwickshire parishes which it di-
vides from England are Eccles, Coldstream, Lady-
kirk, and Hutton ; and the chief tributaries which
enter it below Roxburghshire are, on the left bank,
the Leet, in Coldstream ; and the Whitadder, in the
Liberties of Berwick, — and, on the right bank, the
sluggish Till 3 miles below the mouth of the Leet.
'I'he only towns and considerable villages on or
near the margin of the Tweed are Peebles and In-
nerleithen, in their cognominal parishes, and both on
the left bank, in Peebles-shire ; Darnick and JMel-
rose, on the right bank, and Gattonside on the left,
in the parish of Melrose ; Lussudden, in St. Both-
well's ; Kelso, on the lett bank, in its cognominal
parish ; Birgham, in Eccles ; Coldstream, at the
mouth of the Leet ; CornhiU, nearly opposite Cold-
stream, but half-a-mile into the interior of Northum-
berland ; Norham, on the right bank, opposite Lady-
kirk ; and Berwick, on the left bank, a little above
the embouchure with its suburb of Tweedmouth on
the Durham side of the stream.- — The mansions upon
the Tweed, even those which command special at-
tention by their architectural elegance and the rich-
ness of their pleasure-grounds, are too numerous to
admit of succinct enumeration ; yet, without invi-
diousness to the many which might justly be regarded
as temples of taste, Abbotsford, the seat of Sir Walter
Scott, the son of our national novelist, in Melrose ;
and Fleurs-castle, the seat of the Duke of Roxburgh,
in Kelso, may be named as particularly attractive
The Tweed was long, and to a very late period, re-
markable for poverty in bridges; and between Peebles
and the sea, a distance of upwards of 70 miles, was
THE TWEED.
lib
totiiUy unprovided with them, except with one at
Berwick. Bleau's Athis Scotiae, printed at Anister-
•liim in 1654, says, when noticing the bridge at Pee-
bles : " Quinque arcus habet — alium pontein, non
patitur Tueda, donee Bervicum, pertingat," But
iiou', between Peebles and Berwick, there are eleven
bridges; a private suspension one at Kingsmeadovvfe,
in the parish of Peebles ; a new public timber one at
Iimerleithen ; a public one at Yair, between Selkirk
and Galashiels ; a tine new one on a recent cut ot
mail-road near the mouth of the Ettrick ; a spacious
stone one atDariiick; a public suspension one for
pedestrians at Melrose and Gattonside ; a public one
at Drygrange, near the mouth of the Leader ; a pri-
vate suspension one at Dryburgh, in Merton ; a mag-
iiiticent stone one at Kelso ; an elegant stone one at
Coldstream ; and a very splendid carriage-way sus-
pension one at Paxton, in the paiish of Hutton.
The Tweed and the Clyde, for many miles from
their source, tiow so nearly in one direction as never
to diverge to any great distance from each other;
and, so long as they continue nearly parallel, they
flow upon almost the same level, and keep on a high
table-land of country, as if hesitating whether to
unite their waters or remain separate, and whether
to turn their final course toward the eastern or the
western ocean. In the vicinity of Biggar, where the
Clyde is 7 miles from the Tweed, and 30 from its
own source, and flows along a country by no means
mountainous, the indigenous waters descend from
within half-aniile of it to the Tweed ; and 10 or 11
miles lower down, running iu an opposite direction
to that long pursued by the two great streams, splits
its waters and sends tliem away in two separate de-
tachments respectively to the I'weed and the Cl}de:
see Biggar and Tarth. Tradition says that, in
former times, before Glasgow had acquired its com-
mercial character, a project was conceived of turning
the Clyde into the Tweed, with the view of render-
ing the latter navigable to a great distance along the
jNIerse ; and, in favour of the project, had it ever been
attempted, there existed the remarkable facilities,
that, immediately south of Biggar, a bog extends all
the way between the rivers, that its waters tiow to
the Tweed, and its surface is only a few feet above
the level of the Clyde, and that abundance of ma-
terials are at hand for erecting a dam-dyke. Another
tradition — a grinningly monkish one — ascribes an at-
tempt at a similar project to the reputed wizard,
Michael Scott: see Clyde. Of the 1,500 feet of
the Tweed's total aggregate fall from its source to
its embouchure, 1,000 are achieved when it reaches
the town of Peebles. In the very long run between
that town and the sea, therefore, the river might be
expected to become sluggish in current, and, over a
considerable distance, navigable. But it accom-
plishes its remaining fall of 500 leet in so many and
so far-apart and so comparatively gentle descents, as
to be altogether a stream of beauty, and a stranger
to matters of commerce. It abounds in deep pools
and in long stretches of scarcely perce|)tible current;
yet, in almost every sweep of it which can come
under the eye in the course of its beautiful bends
and sinuosities, it presents one or more soft rapids,
sometimes of considerable length, where the surlace
of the water is carried along willi just snfBcient speed
to feature it all over with dimples, and ripples, and
glassy slides, and whirls. The banks ot gravel or
pebbles which form these rapids, and, in one instance,
'1 or iJ miles above Kelso, of a perforated broaU
wacke-dyke quite across its channel, render it both
naturally unlit, and artificially unimprovable, for
navigation. Yet ferry-boats are stationed upon it in
manylocalities, and have very ample depth of water;
and small flat boats used in sidmon-fishing, and pro-
vincially called trews, are freely navigated even over
the fords. A few miles from its embouchure, too, it
loses its prevailing character, and becomes capable of
admitting sailing-craft. The tide tlows to Norham-
castle, 10 miles above Berwick ; and up to New-
^vater-ford, 6 miles above Berwick, it produces suffi-
cient depth to float, at any time, a vessel of 30 tons
burthen. The real navigation of the Tweed, how-
ever, is all confined to Berwick ; and, as to either
capaciousness or depth of sea-room and harbourage
afforded for it, might be quite as well accommodated
in many a nameless creek or tiny bay in the raggedly
indented parts of the Scottish coast. As the Tweed,
while thus undisturbed by traffic, is nearly as much
untinctured by the liquid outpourings of manufac-
tories, and as it has, in general, a clean, shining,
n)any-coloured path of gravel and pebbles, it almost
everywhere possesses a remarkably limpid and spark-
ling appearance, — such as, combined with the ma-
jestic mirthfulness of its current, and with the pre-
vailing brilliant beauty of its banks, to suggest
serenely joyous images to a tasteful observer of
landscape.
The Tweed possesses none of the wild romance,
the bold and startling groups of picture, or the im-
pressive and at times awful grandeur of such rivers
as the Garry, the Tummel, and the Upper Tay; but,
in all the properties which gently please, and sooth-
ingly fascinate, and lusciously excite, it is surpass-
ingly rich, and not a little various. Till it debouches
into the Eden-like vale of ilelrose it is aggregately
a pastoral stream ; yet has stretches of haugh and
arable hanging plain, which look like gentle pictures
within the rough bold framework of the surrounding
hills. Its vale, for a considerable distance from the
commencement, is prevailingly cold, naked, and nar-
row; but, long before reaching Peebles, and at in-
tervals ever after, it is occasionally warmed and em-
bellished with wood, and presents charming alterna-
tions of gorge, glen, and variously fashioned haughs.
Its screens or flanking heights, except at the open-
ings where large tributaries bring down lateral glens,
are so closely pressed behind by towering elevations
and so huddled together in their ridgy extensions, as
to command no extensive views ; yet, by their green,
soft surfaces, and their finely curved outlines, iu
combination with the woods on their skirts, and the
cultivation in the haughs which they enclose, they
give, in compensation, many agreeable close pictures.
While it traverses the plain of Melrose, it is so over-
shadowed by orchards and broadly sheeted from the
margin with the most ornately cultivated plain, and
picturesquely screened in the brief distance by the
Eildons and Cowdenknowes and diversified sylvan
heights as to seem like a river luxuriating in beauty.
From this vale to about the point where it leaves
Roxburgh it has seldom on its banks any considerable
expansion of haugh, but is, in general, shut in by
hanging plains and soft rising grounds, all green, or
arable, or wooded, allowing very limited views of its
immediate channel, but cutting it into series of
delightful small scenes and commanding brilliant
stretches of dale landscape from the Eildoii hills to
the Cheviots. But at Kelso and a little above, where
the miijestic and richly jewelled river rolls past the
termination of the broad gay path of the almost rival
Teviot coming down to pay it princely tribute, a
scene of blushing and brilliant beauty expands around
it, on which the imagination lives as if it were a re-
miniscence of paradise : see Kelso, Makerston,
and Roxburgh. From Roxburghshire, or rather
from Kelso, to the sea, the Tweed is a magnificent
and imposing stream, and uniformly maintains its
cliaracteristic transparency, and windb in constant
bend and tortuosity along its career, and, in a general
TWE
776
TWY
view, moves in a gigantic furrow, a Lowland glen,
exuberantly clothed with wood, and spreading away
in a terrace broad as the Merse, and delicately fea-
tured with all the properties of a great and highly
cultivated plain.
The salmon fisheries of the Tweed were formerly
of great value, but, of late years, have suffered a de-
preciation to the very great amount of about two-
thirds. The protrusion of the pier of Berwick, the
general use of lime in the fields drained into the river,
and an undue increase in the number of boats em.
ployed in fishing, have all been assigned as causes,
and severally pronounced by competent judges to be
either irrelevant or so feeble as to correspond in no
considerable degree to the effect. The real cause,
or at least the prime and by far the most powerful
one, appears to be the illegal destruction offish, dur-
ing the close season, in the higher Tweed and its
tributaries. The practice exists to an extent greater
than could be readily credited, and is carried on with
an amount of system and skill and daring which,
if the object were good, and the result not delete-
rious to the health of the parties themselves, and the
conservation of the fisheries, would be not a little
commendable. The rental of the whole of the fish-
eries on the Tweed averaged about £12,000 a-year
for the seven years preceding 1824. The most valu-
able fisheries are within 2 miles of the river, and the
rental of those within 7 miles of the mouth was about
£9,000 a-year. The produce of the fisheries on the
Tweed for the twenty-nine years preceding 1824
averaged about 8,000 boxes each year.
T WEEDDALE, the ancient and still the popular
name of Peebles-shire: which see. The district,
under this name, gives the title of Marquis to the
noble family of Hay. In 1646 Baron Hay of Yester
was created Earl of Tweeddale; and in 1694 the Earl
was made Marquis of Tweeddale, Earl of Gifford,
and Viscount of Walden. The family-seat is Yester-
house, in the parish of Yester, Haddingtonshire.
T WEEDEN, a rivulet of 5 miles in length of run,
which falls into the Liddel, half-a-mile below New
Castletown, Roxburghshire.
TWEEDSMUIR, a parish in the south-west ex-
tremity of Peebles-shire; bounded on the north-west
and north by Drummelzier ; on the east by Megget;
on the south-east and south by Dumfries-shire ; and
on the west by Lanarkshire. It is not very far from
being a regular circle of about 8} miles in diameter.
The surface is a congeries of mountainous hills with
narrow intervening flats and morasses. The hills, in
general, are luxuriant in verdure on the sides, and
often boggy on the tops ; affording, on the former,
rich supplies of pasture and even crops of hay, and,
on the latter, a large proportion of the local supply
of fuel. They are broad-based, slow of ascent, soft
in outline, and summited with table-land. Horses
can easily asc«id them, and, even without difficulty,
bring down loads of turf. The highest elevations
are Hartfell and Broadlaw, the loftiest south of
the Forth and the Clyde : see these articles. The
district is as eminently pastoral in the richness of its
herbage, and the prime quality of its flocks, as in the
mountainousness of its physical features. About
16,000 sheep are pastured; rather more than half of
them Cheviots, and the rest black-faced. Only about
280 acres are in tillage ; though, but for the distance
and expense of lime and other appliances, a large
aggregate extent of the lower declivities of the hills
might easily be subjected to the plough. Grey-
wacke seems to be all but the only rock, to the
exclusion, so far as is known, of even a foot of any
of the secondary formations. The river Tweed ori-
ginates and has its first 10 miles' run in the parish ;
»nd, in return, gives its name as the prenomen of
that of both the district itself and several of its lo-
calities. No fewer than about twenty-five indigenous
and independent streamlets fall into it before it de-
parts, and render it, even in this lofty land of its
infancy, not altogether unimportant in volume. The
chief of these streamlets are the Fruld and the
Tala : which see. Gameshope-loch, about 600
feet in diameter, is probably the loftiest lochlet in
the south of Scotland, and abounds in excellent dark-
coloured trout. A peculiarly fine perennial spring,
called Geddes'-well, sends out a rill near the summit
of Broadlaw. The Edinburgh and Dumfries mail-
road passes up the Tweed, and leaves the parish at a
point 132 feet higher than that river's source, or up-
wards of 1,600 feet above sea-level. The locality at
which it takes leave is called Tweed's-cross, and is
supposed to have been first a station for the Druidical
worship of the sun, and next the site of a cross
erected as a road-mark in so wild and hazardous a
mountain-pass Vestiges of ancient castles exist at
Fruid, Hackshaw, and Oliver ; the first, the pro-
perty of the Earl of Wemyss, as Earl of March ; the
second, the ancient residence of the family of Por-
teous, the chief of that name ; and the third, the
paternal seat of the Frasers, now of Lovat The
principal landowners are the Earl of Wemyss and
Sir James Montgomery of Stanhope, Bart. Popula-
tion, in 1801, 277; in 1831, 288. Houses 49. As-
sessed property, in 1815, £3,840. — Tweedsmuir is
in the presbytery of Peebles, and synod of Lothian
and Tweeddale. Patron, St. Mary's college, St.
Andrews. Stipend £227 9s. 5d. ; glebe £12 10s.
Unappropriated teinds £151 5s. 6d. Schoolmaster's
salary £32, with about £12 fees, and about £2 other
emoluments. There is a private school. The parish
anciently formed part of Drummelzier, and was made
a separate erection in 1643.
TWYNHOLM, or Twineham, a parish extend-
ing in a long stripe from north to south, in the south-
ern division of Kirkcudbrightshire. It is bounded
on the north by Balmaghie ; on the east by Tong-
land ; on the south-east by the river and estuary of
the Dee, which divide it from Kirkcudbright ; on
the south by Borgue , and on the west by Borgue
and Girthon. Its length is 9| miles ; its greatest
breadth is 2^; and its mean breadth is about li.
Tarf- water is the boundary-line for nearly 2 miles
with Toiigland. The Dee is in contact with the
border from the influx of the Tarf to a point a little
below St. Mary's Isle, where it is 1^ mile broad; and
it offers the parish all such advantages as it gives to
the burgh of Kirkcudbright, situated on its opposite
bank. The rivers and two brooks abound in both
variety and quantity of fish ; and the latter possess
advantageous water-power for driving machinery.
Three lakes, — Whinnion, Trostrie, and Glengap, —
the first much the largest, and measuring about 2,i
miles in circumference, have various sorts of trouts.
The surface, as seen at a distance, seems an elevated
plain ; but seen immediately under the eye, is over
the southern and central districts distributed into
knolls and arable hills with an interspersion of small
valleys, and with some haugh-ground on the Tarf
and the Dee, and, over the northern district, be-
comes ruggedly hill, a congeries of heathy upland,
entirely and wildly pastoral. Only about two-thirds
of the area, from the southern boundary upward, are
inhabited. The soil of the arable lands is variously
clay, moss, gravel, sand, and mixtures, generally lies
upon rock and partly upon till, and being, for the
most part, light, dry, and rich, repays the skilful and
industrious farmer with exuberant crops of grass and
corn. More than one-half of the parish in value,
though not in extent, belongs to the Earl of Selkirk,
whose seat is at St. Mary's Isle, on the opposite bank
TYN
777
TYN
of the Dee. Plantations cover the rising grounds
which confront his lordship's residence, and rise in
scattered and beautifying clumps over the whole of
his estate ; and they exist, also, to a small extent,
in other districts. Of an extensive ancient forest,
which once flung perpetual shade over this part of
Galloway, the only remnant is a patch round the
ruin of Cumston-castle, — an old building belonging
to the Earl of Selkirk, and pleasantly situated on
an eminence a little below the confluence of the
Tarf and the Dee. There are in the parish five
moats, and a Gallows-hill. Various mansions adorn
the south and centre, but especially the eastern side,
looking down upon the rivers. " The house of Bar-
whinnock, seen from the highway which passes by
Twynholm-kirk; with the ornamented grounds about
it; the little clumjis of larches, silver-lirs, and other
pines scattered near ; and the numerous snug-look-
ing small farm-houses interspersed; with the two
oval hills, — the Bar and the Doon, limiting the fore-
ground on the east and the west sides, — form alto-
gether a very interesting landscape. The church of
Twynholm below the manse, the glebe in a fine
state of cultivation, and a little village named from
the church, and half-hid in an adjacent glen, compose
another cheerful, animated prospect." The erection,
60 years ago, of a large building, which was meant to
be a distillery, and was afterwards converted into a
cotton-factory, occasioned the rise of a second small
village. The mail or military road between Dum-
fries and Portpatrick goes diagonally across the par-
ish. Population, in 1801, 683; in 1831, 871. Houses
128. Assessed property, in 1815, £7,998. — Twyn-
holm is in the presbytery of Kirkcudbright, and synod
of Galloway. Patron, the Earl of Selkirk. Stipend
£225 Us. Id.; glebe £40. Unappropriated teinds
£210 10s. 6d. Schoolmaster's salary £31, with £15
fees, and £2 other emoluments. There are 2 non-
parochial schools. The present parish comprehends
the ancient parishes of Twynholm and Kirkchrist:
see Kirkchrist. The church of Twynholm was
anciently a vicarage under the monks of Holyrood.
When Episcopacy was re-established by James VI.,
the parson was constituted a member of the chapter
of Galloway. In the reign of Charles I. the barony
of Twynholm, or Cumston, with the castle, and
manor-lands, and the salmon-fishing on the Dee,
belonged to Lord Kirkcudbright.
TYNDRUM, a village at the head of Strathfil-
lan, in the parish of Killin, Breadalbane, Perthshire.
It stands on the western military road, about 20
miles west of the village of Killin, 12 miles east of
Dalmally, and within a mile of the mountain water-
shed with Argyleshire, and of the remotest source
of the southern great head-stream of the Tay. Pen-
nant supposed, but very mistakenly, that it is the
highest inhabited spot in Scotland. A road branches
off from it to Glencoe, and is noted for wildness and
oppressive dreariness. The village itself is remark-
able for the surpassing irksomeness of its position.
" If no one would willingly go to Tyndrum a second
time, or remain there an hour ; so, no one will from
choice take the road from this point to the King's-
house and Glencoe." The vicinity is rich in variety
and rareness of minerals. A lead-mine has been its
main support, but, on account of doubtful produc-
tiveness, has been at different times wrought and
abandoned as the price of the metal fluctuated. — At
Dalrigh or Dalrie, ' the King's field,' in the neigh-
bourhood. King Robert Bruce, after a very severe
and unsuccessful public engagement, displayed his
personal strength and courage in single combat with
the Lord of Lorn. " There is a tradition," says Sir
Walter Scott, " in the family of the Macdougals of
Lorn, that their chieftain engaged in personal battle
with Bruce himself, while the latter was employed
in protecting the retreat of his menj that Macdou-
gal was struck down by the king, whose strength
of body was equal to his vigour of mind, and would
have been slain on the spot, had not two of Lorn's
vassals, a father and son — whom tradition terms
M'Keoch — rescued him, by seizing the mantle of the
monarch, and dragging him from above his adver-
sary. Bruce rid lumself of these foes by two blows
of his redoubted battle-axe ; but was so closely
pressed by the other followers of Lorn, that he was
forced to abandon the mantle and broach which fast-
ened it, clasped in the dying grasp of the M'Keochs.
A studded broach, said to have been that which
King Robert lost upon this occasion, was long pre-
served in the family of Macdougal, and was lost m a
tire which consumed their temporary residence."
This exploit is celebrated by Sir Walter Scott in the
following song, entitled ' The Broach of Lorn,'
supposed to be sung by the bard of Lorn at his
chieftain's request ■—
" Whence the broach of burning gold.
That clasps the chieltaiu's mautle-fold,
Wrimnht and chased with rare device.
Studded fair witli gems of price,
Ou tlie varied tartaus beamiug.
As, through night's pale raiubuw gleaming
Fainter iii>w, now seen afar,
Fitful shines the northern star ?
" Oem ! ne'er wrought on Highland mountain.
Did the fairy of the fnuntain,
Or the mermaid of the wave.
Frame tliee in some coral cave?
Did in Iceland's darksome mine
Dwarf's swart hands thy metal twine?
Or, mortal-moulded, comest thou here.
From England's love, or France's lear ?
•< Nol— thy splendours nothing tell
Foreign art or faery spell.
Moulded thou tor monarch's use,
By the overweening Bruce,
When the royal robe he tied
O'er a heart of wiath and pride ;
Thence in triumph wert thou torn.
By the victor hand ol Lorn I
" When the gem was won and lost.
Widely was the war-cry toss a I
hung aloud Bendourish fell.
Answered Doucharfs sounding dell.
Fled the deer from wild Teyudrum,
Wheu the homicide, o'ercoiue,
Hardly 'scaped with scathe and scorn,
Leit the pledge with conquering Lorn!
" Vain was then the Douglas brand !
Vain the Campbell's vaunted hand I
Vain Kirkpatrick's bloody dirk.
Making sure of murder's work I