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James Dodds.

The Topographical, statistical, and historical gazetteer of Scotland ; with a complete county-atlas from recent surveys, exhibiting all the lines of road, rail, and canal communication; and an appendix, containing the results of the census of 1851 (Volume 2)

. (page 8 of 266)

it in a similar manner. The Lowland forces were
equally divided, and formed the wings, between
which the Highlanders were placed. LTpon a rising
ground, behind this line. General Campbell drew up
a reserve of Highlanders, and placed a field-piece.
Within the house of Inverlochy — which was only
about a pistol-shot from the place where the army
was formed — he planted a body of forty or fifty men
to protect the place, and to annoy Montrose's men
with discharges of musquetry. The account given
by Gordon of Sallagh, that Argyle had transported
the half of his army over the water at Inverlochy,
under the command of Auchinbreck, and that Mon-
trose defeated this division, while Argyle was pre-
vented from relieving it with the other division, from
the intervention of " an arm of the sea, that was in-
terjected betwixt them and him,"* is certainly erro-
neous, for the circumstance is not mentioned by any
other writer of the period, and it is well known that
Argyle abandoned his army, and witnessed its de-
struction from his galley, — circumstances which
Gordon altogether overlooks. It was at sunrise, on
Sunday, the 2d day of February, in the year 1645,
that Montrose, after having formed his army in battle
array, gave orders to his men to advance upon the
enemy. The left wing of Montrose's army, under
the command of O'Kean, was the first to commence
the attack, by charging the enemy's right. This was
immediately followed by a furious assault upon the
centre and left wing of Argyle's army, by IMontrose's
right wing and centre. Argyle's right wing not be-
ing able to resist the attack of Montrose's left, turned
about and fled, which circumstance had such a dis-
couraging effect on the remainder of Argyle's troops,
that after discharging their muskets, the whole of
them, including the reserve, took to their heels.
The route now became general. An attempt was
made by a body of about 200 of the dismayed fugi-
tives, to throw themselves into the castle of Inver-
lochy, but a party of Montrose's horse prevented
them. Some of the flying etiemy directed their
course along the side of Loch-Eil, but all these were
either killed or drowned in the pursuit. The greatel-
part, however, fled towards the hills in the diiection
of Argyle, and were pursued by Montrose's men, to
the distance of about 8 miles. As little resistance
was made by the defeated party in their flight, the
carnage was very great, being reckoned at nearly 1,50(J
men, or about the half of Argyle's army ; and many
more would have been cut off had it not been for the

* CDiitiniialioi), p. S-iJ.



INV



24



INV



humanity of Montrose, who did every thing in his
power to save the nnresistinfif enemy from tlie fury
of his men, who were not disposed to give quarter
to the unfortunate Campbells. Having taken the
castle, Montrose not only treated the officers, who
were from tlie Lowlands, with kindness, but gave
them their liberty on parole. Among the principal
persons who fell on Argyle's side, were the comman-
der, Oampbell of Auchinbreck, Campbell of Lochnell,
the eldest son of Lochnell. and his brother, Colin ;
M'Dougall of Rara and hiseldest son ; Major ]\Ienzies,
brother to the laird (or Prior as he was called) of
Achattens Parbreck ; and the provost of the church
of Kilmun. The chief prisoners were the lairds of
Parbreck, Silvercraig, Innerea, Lamont, St. M'Don-
ald in Kintyre, the young laird of Glensaddel, the
goodman of Pynmoir, the son of the captain of Duii-
staffnage, Lieutenant-Colonels Roche and Cockburn,
Captains Stewart, Miu-ray, Hume, and Stirling,
Robert Cleland alias Clydson, and MacDougall, a
preacher. The loss on the side of Montrose was ex-
tremely trifling. The number of wounded is indeed
not stated, but he had only three privates killed.
He sustained, however, a severe loss in Sir Thomas
Ogilvie, son of the Earl of Airly, who died a few
days after the battle of a wound he received in the
thigh. Montrose regretted the death of this stedfast
friend and worthy man with feelings of real sorrow,
and caused his body to be interred in Athole with
due solemnity. Montrose immediately after the
battle sent a messenger to the kintr with a letter,
giving an account of it, at the conclusion of which
he exultingly says to Charles, " Give me leave, after
I have reduced this country, and conquered from Dan
to Beersheba, to say to your Majesty, as David's
general to his master, come thou thyself, lest this
country be called by my name." When the king
received this letter, the royal and parliamentary com-
missioners were sitting at Uxbridge negotiating the
terms of a peace ; but Charles was induced by it to

break off the negotiation a circumstance which led

to his ruin.

INVERMAY, the 'Birks' of which are cele-
brated in Scottish song, a beautiful locality on the
banks of the May, in the parish of Forteviot. See
these articles.

INVERNESS,* a parish in the shire of Inver-
ness ; bounded on the north-east by the Beauly and
the Moray friths; on the east by Petty; on the
south-east and south by Croy and Daviot; on the
south-west by Loch- Ness and the parish of Dores ;
and on the west by Ilrquhart, Kiltarlity, and Kirk-
hill. Its length from north-east to south-west is 14

* " Irivprness was ancipntly written Inverness. Tlip town
of Inverness, friim which the parish has its name, is situated at
the mouth of the river Ness, hmer'm Gaelic, and expressive
of that situation. The river derives its name from Loch-Ness,
which is its source. Some promontories and headlands in our

own and in other northern countries, are called Ness, as

Biichanness, the Naea of Norway, — Ness mirisi nose, from its
prominency. But no promontory is in Lochness. This led
some curious persons (Lowthorp's Abridg. of the Phil. Trans.
II. 222.) to seek for the oriffin of the name in the traditions of
old bards. By these traditions they were iuforincd that Nysus,
an Irish hero, had settled a colony of his countrymen in Strath-
erriok. The era of this event is passed over in silence. Ves-
tiijea, however, of his castle and fortress are still to he seen on
the summit of Diin-Oeardill, — a rock of hi^h elevation at a
short distance from the lake. The rock had its name from
Dornadilla, the Lady of Nysus. This hero built a bar'.-e, and
was the first who sailed the lake : hence Loch-Ness. We re-
lish not the derivatiim from Nysus, and will hazard a conjec-
ture of onr own. The two rivers which have their course
through the country of Stratherriok, and discharge themselves
into Loch-Ness, are Carrigrack and Fechloin. These rivers are
remarkable for high cataracts, particularly Fechloin. In this
river and near tlie mouth of it, is the Fall of Foyers, a tre-
mendous cataract. Ess, in the Gaelic languag-e, signifies 'a
waterfall' or ' cataract.' The lake which is supplied with the
water of this fall, might not unaptiv be called Lodi-Ness,
Il.ochan-F.ss,'] that is, ' the lake of the cataract.'"— 0/rf Stn-
tislitai Account,



I miles ; and its average breadth 2i. It may be con-
sidered as the north-eastern portion of the Great
glen of Caledonia. The appearance of the country is
diversified, — partly flat, and partly mountainous : see
succeeding article. On the south the surface rises to
an elevation of about 400 feet ; on the north the ac-
clivity is higher and more precipitous. The eleva-
tion of Loch-Ness above sea-level is only 46 feet.
The coast-line is flat, and well-cultivated. The soil
is fertile ; the general character of it is— with some
exceptions — a black loam, rather light and on a gra-
velly bottom. Loch-Ness is partly in this parish :
see that article. The river Ness, which intersects
the parish for 8 miles, will also form the subject of
a separate article. Among the minor streams are
Inches burn, and the burns of Holm, Dochfour, and
Aberiachan. The most remarkable hill is Tomna-
hurich, 7iear the town, on the west side of the river.
It is a beautiful isolated mount, nearly resembling
a ship with her keel uppermost. It stands on a
base, whose length is 1,984 feet, and breadth 176;
its elevation, from the channel of the river, is 250
feet. A little to the west of this hill is another
gravel mount called Tor-a'-Bhean, which rises to the
height of about 300 feet. The elevation of Craig-
Phadric from the sea-level is 435 feet. The number
of arable acres in this parish, when the Old Statistical
Account was written, was supposed to be about
5,000 ; in the New Statistical Account they are
calculated at from 8,000 to 9,000, with about 1,000
improvable. The land-rent of the whole parish was,
in the year 1754, 3,268 bolls and 3 firlots victual,
and £575 7s. llg-d. sterling. The boll at that period
was valued to the tenant at 9 merks Scots, or 10s.
sterling, with customs and services, which were of
little value to the proprietor, but often of distressing
consequences to the tenant. Its present rental is
about £20,000. At the close of last century, lands
let at from 13s. to £2 an acre ; the present rent is
from £1 to £2 10s. per acre. Ground near the tovv'n
lets at from £5 to £7.t Population, in 1801, 8,732;
in 1831, 14,324; in 1841, 15,308. Assessed pro-
perty of the parish, in 1815, £14,980; of the burgh,
£13,161. Houses, in 1831, 2,125.

Two military roads pass through the parish ; and
are kept in repair by Government. There are two
bridges over the Ness in this parish. The princi-
pal of them is a beautiful structure of seven ribbed
arches, built in the year 1685. It is a toll-bridge, by
act of parliament, and makes a good addition to the
revenue of the town. The other was built in 1808,
at an expense of £4,000. A pontage is also levied
at it. About a mile above the town an island in the
Ness has been connected with the opposite banks by
suspension bridges. There were in ancient times
several unimportant rencounters and skirmishes in
this parish. The only memorable battle was that of

t When the Old Statistical Account of this parish was writ.
ten, a ploughman had from £5 to £7 a-year, with 6 holls, half
oat and half bear meal ; a house, kail-yard, and land for pota.
toes ; his peats carried home, and, in some instances, grass for
a cow. *' These servants," it was added, "live comfortably;
their wives are employed in little manufactures for clothiug
their own families and for sale, and sometimes in spinning for
the manufactures at Inverness, aipd earn about 2s. a-week."
At present their wages are from £8 to £10 with hoard. A wo.
man farm-Servant's fee was £1 12s. with maintenance in th«
house; and a herd's wages much the same. At present female-
servants receive from ,£3 to £4 The wages of house-maida
average £2 per half-year. A mason's wages were from l-s. 6d.
to Is 8d. ; a wriifht's from Is. to 1.-. 4d. ; a tailor's 6d. with
maintenance. Weavers and shoemakers worked by the piece.
The wages of these artisans are now from 2s. to 3s. a-dav.
Day-labourers at ditching, digging, and other out-work, had
from 8d. to Is ; they have now Is. 6d. Beef, mutton, and pork,
cost from 2^d. to 4d. the pound; the price is now (romSd. to
5d. per imperial lb. Hens and ducks were sold at 6d., 8d., or
yd. each ; chickens and ducklinus, at 3d. ; a goose. Is. 4(1. or Is,
6d. ; a turkey, 2s. fid. or .'is. Fowls are now from Is. 6d. to 2s.
a pair ; chickens, half-price; ducks, Is. 4d. to 2s.; geese and
turkeys from 23. 6d. to ya. 6d.



INVERNESS.



the 16th of April, 1746, — the important ami decisive
battle of CuLLODEN : which see. — There were several
years ago, near the town, and due east from it, on
the upper plain of the parish, several Druidical
temples. These have been blasted for the purpose of
building- farm-houses and offices. At some distance
from the mouth of the river Ness, a considerable
way within flood-mark, there is a large cairn of
stones, the origin of which is of very remote anti-
quity. It is called Cairn aire, that is, ' the Cairn of
the sea.' There is a beacon erected on Cairn aire,
to apprize vessels coming into the river of danger
from it.^ — In the Beauly frith, due west from this
cairn, there are three cairns at considerable dis-
tances, one from the other. The largest is in the
middle of the frith, and accessible at low water. It
appears to have been a burying-place, by the urns
which were discovered in it. — Oliver Cromwell's
fort, and other ancient buildings, will be noticed in
our description of the town of Inverness. — The vit-
rified fort, on the summit of Craig-Phadric, is a
very remarkable structure : see that article.

This parish, formerly a rectory with the ancient
rectory of Bona united, is in the presbytery of In-
verness, and synod of INIoray. There are three liv-
ings in the parish, and two portions of the parish
have recently been erected into quoad sacra parishes
by authority of the church-courts. The 1st and 3d
livings are in the gift of the Crown. Fraser of Lovat
is patron of the 2d. The High church was built in
1772; sittings 1,260. The Gaelic church was built
in 1794; sittings 1,220. The three ministers officiate
alternately in these two churches, and in a new
church recently built at an expense of £2,000, and
seating 1,80'J. The annual stipend of the two senior
ministers is £276 10s. 2d. ; glebe £50. They had
formerly manses ; but they became ruinous and were
sold ; and the one minister receives £3 10s., and the
other £1 13s., being the interest of the money got
for them. The unappropriated teinds are valued at
£1,073 lis. 6d. The junior or 3d minister has
£150, with £25 for a glebe. — The eastern portion
of the parish was erected, in 1834, into the quoad
sacra East parish. It embraces a distance of
above 5 miles in length, by 2 in breadth, with a
population of 1,980 in 1836. The church was built
in 1798, and altered in 1822; sittings 1,158; cost
£1,400. Minister's stipend £80, but is at present
about £200. — The North church was built, in
1837, at an expense of £1,400; sittings 1,040.
Stipend £160, secured by bond of the managers. —
An Episcopalian congregation has existed in the
parish since the Revolution. The former chapel was
built in 1801; sittings 280; cost £1,000; but a new
chapel containing 600 sittings has recently been
erected for this congregation. Stipend £180, with
the rent of a small piece of ground within the town,
yielding about £5 per annum. The minister usually
officiates every Sunday at Fort-George. — A congre-
gation in connexion with the Secession church was
formed in this parish in the latter quarter of last
century, but was afterwards given up. It was re-
vived in 1817, and a church built in 1821 ; sittings
650. Stipend £100, with manse and sacramental
expenses. — An Independent church was established
a considerable number of years ago ; and a chapel
built for its use about 1826; sittings 630; cost £800.
— A Roman Catholic congregation was established
in 1800; chapel built in 1836; sittings 450; cost
£2,000. Stipend £50, with a manse. There is a
small Wesleyan Methodist congregation. — The ec-
clesiastical edifices are described in the succeeding
article.

INVERNESS, a sea- port, an important town,
a royal burgh, the seat of a presbytery, the capital of



the Northern Highlands, and the supposed original
metropolis of Pictavia, stands 19^ miles south- south-
west of Cromarty, 38i west-south-west of Elgin,
6H north-east of Fort-William, 118.^ west-north-
west of Aberdeen, and 156^ north-north-west of
Edinburgh. Its site is on both banks — chiefly the
right one — of the river Ness, from ^ a mile to 1^
mile above its entrance into that long and beautiful
demi-semi-circular sweep of marine waters which,
inward from this point, is called the Beauly frith or
loch, and outward, is assigned a community of name
with the great gulf of the Moray frith. Three large
openings, — the basin of the Beauly frith from the
west, — that of the Moray frith from the north-east, — .
and the divergent termination of the Glenmore-
nan-Albin from the south, — meet at the town and
pour around it a rich confluence of the beauties of
landscape, and the advantages of communication.
A plain, marked with few inequalities, lying at but
a slight elevation above sea-level, and luxurious in
its soil and its embellishments, stretches inward
from the friths, and bears on its bosom the whole of
the town except the southern outskirts. A bank
about 90 feet high, part of a great terrace which
sweeps along from the vicinity of Loch-Ness to the
river Spey, rises behind the town, and gives a charm-
ing site to a sprinkling of villas and the newest sub-
urban erections. Stretching into the interior from
this bank, and forming a table-land equal to it
in elevation, lies a plain from one to three miles
broad, worked into high cultivation, feathered at
intervals with trees, and numerously gemmed with
country-seats. The mountain-ridges which screen
the Glenmore-nan-Albin, seem to do homage to this
plain ; they subside from their sternness into pic-
turesque hill-beauty ; they lose, as they approach it,
both their loftiness and their asperity; and they file
off, on the east side, into a smooth and gently-de-
clining ridge about 400 feet high, and, on the west
side, into a gorgeous range of many-shaped and many-
tinted hills, rocky, scaured, or wooded on their sides,
tabular or rounded in their summits, and terminating
about two miles west of the town in the magnificent
Craig-Phadric, which lifts a mimic forest into mid-
air, and is " distinguished by its beautiful tabular
summit, and a succession of bold rocky escarpments
along its acclivities :" see Craig-Phadric. The
highest adorning of husbandry and gardening and
arboriculture along the plain, and hanging woods,
verdant slopes, frontlets of rock, and a variety of
outline in the hills, fling enchantment over the
scenery immediately landward of Inverness; and
yet they act but as a foil to the splendid combina-
tions of lowland and marine and mountainous land-
scape which hang in a profusion of splendour around
the town. The mountain-barriers which rise up on
the comparatively near horizon, and form, along their
summits, a bold well-defined sky-line, exquisitely
contrast as a back-ground with the amenities and
the lusciousness of the vales and the waters which
they enclose. A serrated range on the south-west
and south lifts up at its termination in the far dis-
tance the tine cupola of Mealfourvounie, well-
known to the navigators of the friths as a land-mark,
and to the natives as a barometer : see Mealfour-
vounie. Peaks, which in mid-summer are capped
with clouds, and over a large part of the year are
snow-clad, tower aloft in clusters toward the west,
round the head of Loch-Beauly. A hilly range, very
picturesque in its features, flanks the opposite shore
of the friths, and runs off toward Fortrose to ter-
minate in the rugged heights called the Sutors of
Cromarty ; but, beyond this, though at no great
distance, rises the huge form of Benwyvis, upwards
of 3,500 feet in height, seldom snowless even in



26



INVERNESS.



mid-summer, and sending off elongated lieatli-clad
Hpiirs, which look, in their relation to the landscapes
below them, like the rough and ruthless guardians
of blushing and unjustly suspected beauty : see Ben-
WYVis. 'J'he Moray frith, or that fine indentation
of it which is here made to monopolize its name,
carries the eye north -eastward between shores which,
while they rival each other, jointly rival Scotland in
attraction, to the far-away mountain-ranges of Elgin,
Banff, Sutherland, and Caithness, appearing in the
dim blue distance like things of sight vanishing into
the filmy but assured objects of faith. While we
smile, then, at the enthusiasm of the not very en-
thusiastic Dr. M'Culloch, we can hardly refrain from
quietly sympathizing with it when, comparing In-
verness with the superb metropolis of Scotland, he
says: " When I have stood in Queen-street of Edin-
burgh, and looked towards Fife, I have sometimes
wondered whether Scotland contained a finer view
of its class. But I have forgotten this on my arrival
at Inverness. Surely if a comparison is to be made
with Edinburgh, always excepting its own romantic
disposition, the frith of Forth must yield the palm
to the Moray frith, the surrounding country must
yield altogether, and Inverness must take the highest
rank. * * Each outlet is different from the others,
and each is beautiful ; whether we proceed towards
Fort-George, or towards ]\Ioy, or enter the valley of
the Ness, or skirt the shores of the Beauly frith,
while a short and commodious ferry wafts us to
the lovely country opposite, rich with wood, and
country-seats, and cultivation. It is the boast, also,
of Inverness to unite two opposite qualities, and
each in the greatest perfection, — the characters of a
rich open lowland country with those of the wildest
alpine scenery, both also being close at hand, and in
many places intermixed ; while to all this is added a
series of maritime landscape not often equalled."

Approaching the town by the old military road
from Fort- Augustus along the right bank of the Ness,
we pass the parliamentary boundary at Altnaskiah
burn, and travel 5 furlongs due north, with the
river immediately on our left, and a rich studding
of mansions and villas on our right. At the end of
3A furlongs we pass through the little manufactur-
ing suburb of Haugh ; and immediately beyond it,
at a point whence the Culduthil and the Old Edin-
burgh roads sharply diverge, we enter the main body
of the burgh. A few yards before us, close on the
margin of the river, is the Castle-hill, a mere projec-
tion of the bank or terrace wliich flanks the lower
plain of the Ness. A stripe, or slightly winged single
street, round the east and south-east sides of the
Castle-hill, and a cross-street winged with alleys on
the south, are the oldest existing parts of Inverness:
occupying the site of its humble tenements when a
mere village, and exhibiting not a few antiquarian
remnants of its condition during the later ages of
feudalism. Eighty or a hundred yards below the
Castle-hill, the river is spanned by the old bridge :
and thence, or rather from the Castle-hill, it runs for
half-a-mile north-north-westward, and, over that dis-
tance, carries down in the same direction, and on its
right bank, the chief district of the town. The
High-street, at first narrow, and bearing the name of
Bridge-street, but afterwards spacious and airy, ex-
tends 320 yards north-eastward, on a line with the
old bridge, cuttingnearly at rightanglesthe thorough-
fares which run parallel with the river. Petty-street
continues the High-street for about 100 yards, and
then forks into two lines, both of which speedily
subside into unediticed highways, the one leading
on to the great road along the Moiay frith to Aber-
deen, and the other to the great Highland road
through BadeuQch and Glengarry to Perth. A



moundish rising ground, called the Crown, and
situated a little east of the forking of Petty-street,
was anciently surmounted by the original castle of
Inverness, and overlooked the earliest houses of the
pristine town, and the alleged site of the ancient
cross. Church-street, at about 130 yards' distance
from the river, extends 500 yards north-north-west-
ward, and, is continued about 170 yards by Chapel-
street. From the upper end of Chapel-street, and
going off from it at a very acute angle. Academy-
street extends 450 yards south-eastward and north-
westward ; forming the hypothenuse of a short-
based, right-angled triangle, while the greater part
of Church-street forms the perpendicular, and a
street which connects them on a line parallel with
High-street forms the base. Most of the area within
the triangle is unediticed ; but all the space lying
between it and High-street, is a dense phalanx of
alleys, brief streets, and interior courts, — the most
crowded district in the burgh. Six or seven streets,
wholly or partially edificed, run down from Church-
street and the end of Chapel-street to the river ; and
on the last of these touching it, it makes a rapid
bend from the north-north-west to the north-north-
east, so as to be spanned 360 yards lower down by the
new bridge, carrying across a thoroughfare which
approaches nearly on a straight line from Chapel-
street. A few yards below the new bridge is the
old pier, and 300 yards farther down is the new
harbour, both flanked by Shore-street, extending
due north, now on the margin of the river, and now
at a considerable distance. — The part of the town


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