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YTHICAL AND PRACTICAL
IN
SZECHWAN.
MYTHICAL AND PRACTICAL
IN
SZECHWAN.
BY
James Hutson.
China Inland Mission.
> COJ!>aB » g3 0'*
WITH PHOTOGRAPHS BY THE AUTHOR
AND IVLAPS FROM CHINESE SOURCES.
SHANGHAI
THE NATIONAL REVIEW" OFFICE,
1916.
Beprinted from "The National Beview.'
stack
Annex
CONTENTS.
Page.
Chap, I. Gleanings from Green City Hill 1
Chap. II. Irrigation Works on the Mm 14
Chap. III. West Szechwan's most remarkable Work 28
Chap. IV. Irrigation Records 34
Chap. V. Rice Cultivation 49
Chap. VI. Bridges in Western Shuh 58
Chap. VII. A Study in Islam 65
2005477
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
Page.
Wei Cheo, looking South 6
A Subdivision of the River within the Walls of Kwan
Hsien 6
View from Kwan Hsien 7
Tripod Barriers 7
Iron Bars 10
Bamboo Baskets 10
Breakwater above Overflow 11
Ri Wang Miao H
Elephant's Trunk 20
Irrigation Canal 20
Stone Ox 21
Entrance to Fuh Lung Miao 21
Irrigation Wheels 28
Newly-planted Rice, Kwan Hsien Pagoda 28
Planting Rice 29
A Footbridge across a Mountain Stream 29
Crossing a Level Sliding Rope 48
Bamboo Suspension Bridge 48
End of Bamboo Suspension Bridge 49
Repairing the Bamboo Suspension Bridge 49
Repairing Rope Suspension Bridge 56
Iron Bridge.— With Ornament and Iron Bars Sup-
porting Road-Bed 56
Roofed Bridge, South Gate Kwan Hsien 57
Mullah and Students 57
Muhammadan Mullah and Deacons 65
Tree that fell in 1913 65
Maps At end of volume
nyiMiCAL AND Pi^ACTIC^L
IN
5ZECt1WAIN.
CHAPTER I.
Gleanings froa^ Green City Hill.
:^t& -hfi ^ -SL
pj :pR aS .w.
The city of Kwan Hsien (^ ,^) is situated at the north-
west corner of the Chengtu (|K ^) plain, just where the level
country ends and the mountains begin ; in fact the eastern
half of the wall is on the plain, and the western half is on
the first small hill, the beginning of the great border ranges.
This city is about 120 li or 34 miles (according to cyclometer)
distant from Chengtu, the capital of Szechwan,and is 2490 feet
above sea-level and 800 feet higher than the capital. It is a
busy trading mart for the Tibetan border, a strategic military
position, which has for many generations been the barrier
between Chengtu and the tribal country ; in fact it is the
key to the great west and north roads, besides which, it is
an important pilgrim centre, and much religious and super-
stitious lore centres around it. It is also the source and
head of the famous irrigation system, which is perhaps one
of China's most useful public works ; but as we shall deal
with this work in a separate paper there is no need to do
more than mention it here. The city is small and only has
a population of about 7000 inhabitants, mostly Chinese, with
a strong Tibetan strain in them ; the exception being the small
colony of Muhammadans, who have kept themselves quite
distinct, through their long years of intercourse with the
heathen. The city's ancient name in the Liang Han (^ 3|)
period was Mien-chi Hsien (j^/J^lH). In the San Kueh Shi izz.
P3 B$) ("Three Kingdom") period it was known as Tu-kiang
Hsien '^15 fll K^) ; in the T'ang (^) period, Tao-kiang Hsien
(^ U.^); in the Yuan (%) period it was Kwan Cheo (Mi *N1).
The present name of Kwan Hsien only dates from the Ming
(P^) dynasty, and the reign of Hung Wu ii^ ^). At that time
Kwan Hsien was governed from Sung-pan (Ifh ^{^) by a milit-
ary governor and probably formed part of a border military
governorship. I have heard it said that the Province of
2 MYTHICAL AND PRACTICAL IN SZBCHWAN,.
Szechwan was controlled astrologically, as to its inter-
lectuals, by the demon and well stafs. Whether this is true
or not it is difficult to say, but I think that the people of the
districts we now have under consideration may certainly be
said to be so governed, because of the superstitions which
haunt, and the rain which deluges, them. It is probable thafc
the rainfall of the city and neighbourhood is 40 per ceot.
heavier than at P'i Hsien (f^,^) which is only 70 li away, and
the reason would seem to be that the mist from the plain is
driven westward till it strikes the cold air on the Min
mountains to the west, and is then thrown down in torrents;
this is confirmed by the proverb, Ta clriih shan feng tsHng,
ta tsin shan feng^ « (fT tB ill il Bi ^ M]h KM) i.e.,
"A big 'out-mountain wind' is a sign of fine weather; a big 'in-
mountain wind' is a sign of rain."
The proverb also runs " Ts'ing feng ya ii Kwan puh
ts'ing (fp| M. S M il >F ^) i.e., "Tsing-k'i Hsien has wind,
Ya Cheo has rain, but Kwan Hsien is never fine."
Another proverb has it, Mao Cheo feng to, Kwan Hsien
« to'' (M MB.^MUW ^)' i-^' "Mao Cheo is noted for
its wind, but Kwan Hsien is noted for its rain."
There is a popular belief that the city is hollow under-
neath, and that the water from the pools fills this cavity and
thus keeps the city afloat; it is also said that the main street
of the city is in the shape of a dragon's head and a snake's
tail, because of its being wide at the western and narrow
at the eastern end. AtChuh Lin Si, Bamboo Grove Temple,
(4Y Ifi ^) i"St outside the north gate, there is said to be
a sound each night like the pattering of rain on the roof; this
supernatural phenomenon or King Chi (^ ^) is called the
Chuh Lin ie ii {fS^^ M) Bamboo Grove Evening Rain.
Not half a mile distant is another temple, at which there
is said to be another phenomenon, like the beating of a bell
earlv in the morning; this is called the Sheng Tah shen chong
(i fe M ^)» i-^' Holy Pagoda Morning Bell.
At Ling Ngai Si (g ^ ^), i.e. Miraculous Cave Temple
it is said that those at a distance can see people moving about
with lights in the dead of night worshipping the old idols in the
T'ieh-Fuh Si (iS f^ #) or Iron Buddha temple. This is
called (M ^ 'M k) or Lamp-Light of Ling Ngai Si. This
Ling Ngai Hill has of late years become more widely
known, owing to its becoming one of the summer resorts for
foreigners living in Chengtu, and also because of the
stoppage of mining and the difficulty experienced by for-
eigners in buying land on that mountain, doubtless owing to
the fact that the mountain is said to control the geomantic
influence of a large tract of country, and even of t^
capital itself ; this is spoken of as Ling Ngai Long Meh (S
GREEN CITY HILL.
^ fl HI), or Pulse of the Dragon. Close to this temple is a
famous cave called the Heh Feng T'ong (H M. M). or Black
Wind Cave, and it is said that a lad who was out gathering
manure wandered into this cave, and was devoured by the
huge snake which is popularly believed to dwell in its deep
recesses, after which time the mouth of the cave was partly
closed up to keep others from sharing the same fate. This
cave is said to discharge black wind which does great havoc
to the growing grain in the country round, and is spoken of as
TongK'eoSeng Feng (M P ^M.\i'.e.,Cave-raouth-begotten
Wind. This interesting spot has been aptly described by
some poetic genius as follows MM^^M,^^^^'^
ipi n, :KJi ^ ^s'i %\ ^imm'>fmiH n.
" By cliff and vale, a marvellous view we find.
Where oft the crane its cave and nest doth find.
A place where heaven and earth their aspects change,.
And cares of busy world are left behind."
At the Fuh-Long-Kwan (f^ f| H), or Crouching Dragon
Temple, there is said to be a cold pool where the dragon
has his nest ; this is called Han Tan Fuh Long MMiJ^^*
or Crouching Dragon Cold PooL and close above it is the
sacred and famous rock known as the Elephant's Trunk
Rock, Li Tui Siang Pi (liJiH^^ ; whilst just on the knolK
above is the old Teo Tsi Tai (^ %% 3J or Cock-fighting Pit,
which probably dates back to aboriginal times. The stage
is constructed of heavy stone columns, which are braced
together with stone slates; it is circular in shape and is
about 15 ft. in diameter. The whole structure is dilapidated,
but is an interesting relic and conspicuous land mark.
In the horse-shoe hollow below, where the Li Fan
tribesmen encamp, there is what is known as the Feng Ts'j
O (JiL i^ ?i5). the Phoenix Bird's Nest, and it is interesting
to note that the Long O (f| ^) or Dragon's Nest, is in the
pool below. In this hollow facing the river is an ancient
aboriginal grave. A little farther west, at the village of
Peh Sha (S 'ii'P) or White Sand, there is said to be a white
sand which sheds a light in the night, and also a ferry which
transports spirit travellers across the river and is known as
Peh Sha Van Tu (Q ^j? %^), the White Sand Night Ferry.
At the Niang-tsi Ling (i^^^) Temple, lived the family
of Yang Kuei-fei iM fc ifi), who became an empress during
the T'ang (@) dynasty with T'ang-ming-huang ^ ^ %
The style Niang Tsi ($M -f) was the name given by the
people afterwards. The Lao Ren Tsuen (-^ A M) or Old
Age Village is said to be near Shui Mo K'eo (yJC^P)- This
living to very old age was attributed by the Chinese to the
abundance of precious metal deposited in a well, whichmade
all who resided at this village to live to be over a hundred
4 MYTHICAL AND PRACTICAL IN SZKCHWAN.
years of age, but unfortunately some base fellow stole
the metal, and now nobody lives to that age.
The approach to Kwan Hsien is remarkable for a large
ornamental arch like a city gateway, which is known as the
Kwan Feng Leo (P M, ^)- This erection at the entrance to
the T'ai Ping Kiai (:ic^(lf), or Great Peace Street, is of con-
siderable age and is said to have been erected because the
girls eligible for marriage seemed to leak out of the place,
and hence there was always a great shortage of suitable
girls. This archway was erected to rectify this evil, and
since then affairs have been better, for now there is no lack
of girls, and it is even said that Kwan Hsien is a good place
in which to buy slave girls.
Inside the city near the north gate, and overlooking the
temple to the God of Literature, there is a little red pagoda,
which adds to the picturesqueness of the landscape,
and is known as the Wen Feng Tab (j$C ^ i^") or Literary
Peak Pagoda. This neat little pagoda is in the shape
of a Chinese pencil and has been erected to ensure
literary success to the schools in the Examination Hall near
by. In the wood adjoining this pagoda there is supposed
to be a huge snake. One day a man walking in the wood
stepped on what appeared to be a huge tree, felled and
trimmed of its branches, and to his horror it began to move,
and disappeared in the wood ; and this was supposed to be
none other than the fabulous snake. The Kwan Hsien large
pagoda is situated to the south of the city, and to all ap-
pearance is leaning to one side, but according to popular
opinion it is now erect, ewing to a man having V>een found
one morning with a crowbar and fulcrum, who on being asked
where he was going he replied, " I am going to straighten
up the Pagoda," and at night when he returned he said that
he had done it ; and the people believed it, though as a matter
of fact it is still in the same condition.
To the south of the city about 45 li is a notable landmark
known as the Wan Ren Fen (^ A UM) or Ten Thousand
Person grave. This dates back to the latter davs of the
Ming (59) Dynasty, when Chang Hsien-chong (5^ i^ Jg.)
externimated the people of Szechwan. This Chang Hsien-
chong was noted for his cruelty ; even those he liked, he
could see die without regret as is shown by the following
incident. He built a pagoda of women's feet in Chengtu,
but was sadly at a loss for a beautiful foot with which to
top the pile. His favourite concubine volunteered her own.
and he cut them off to make a top for this pagoda. This
man Chang Hsien-chong was a Shensi muleteer and probably
a semi-lunatic or at least a fanatic. He visited Szechwan
with his mules, and thought the Szechwanese cruel, for when
GREEN CtTY HILt.. 5
one day he sat down behind a wall and his hand touched a
patch of stinging nettles, which it is said he had not seen
before, he was roused and said "The people of S^echwan are
so wicked that even their grass stings, i will get even with
them and kill them all for this wickedness."
When he visited the west of the river at this particular
part the people were gathered together in the Kwan-te Miao
iM ^ M^ watching a theatrical performance. He suddenly
appeared on the scene, and shutting the temple doors he
exterminated the whole; and from that day to this, no
theatricals have been held there, because if even it is at-
tempted, there is the sound of demon voices and spirits
weeping: Kiiei kiih slien Jiao (^^^ '^ ^). The bodies of
the dead were carried out and buried in one grave and a
stone erected in 'their memory, which is now almost past
reading, but the following is a copy of the inscription on
the stone, now sadly defaced.
Although piles of dry bones that fear made.
They once danced and sang till they lost their head.
Alas ! most men don't think of to-morrow.
Thinking only of pleasure, regardless of sorrow.
Chao Kong Shan is a mountain directly facin'^ the south
gate of Kwan Hsien, and gets its name from a Taoist priest
Chao-yuh (j^ '):§) who went to the top of this mountain and
practised his magic art till perfected : the small temple on
the mountain is still pointed out as the place he came to
when his work was accomplished. Legend has it that there
was once a temple on the top of this hill in which Chao Yuh
lived, but this was destroyed by an earthquake, and the
report is currently believed that the sound of beating of
gongs can still be heard in the cavitv beneath. Legend also
has" it that this Pan Long Shan (^ t| Uj), or Top of Chao
Kong Shan (||t ^ UP' ^vas taken to heaven and has become
a celestial temple. At the foot of this mountain, between
U Tang (^ '^) and Tai Ping (i: ^^ markets there is a small
mountain which is just as though it had been rent asunder
by an earthquake, but it is popularly believe^ to hnve been
cut asunder by the sword of Tu Fu-w<*i(;i=t. f^ ^) whose
headquarters were at Tsongking Cheo (^< ^ j\]) old city,
parts of whose walls are still visible. This man is also
known as the Tien Kinc Wang (Jt S 3FJ- He lived before
the time of the Three Kingdoms, and his t'f'ave is at Tsong
Fuh Si (':i'; im #) near Liao Kia Chang (1^3 ^ W-
One of the most interesting places in the district is
the mountain known as T'ien Si Tong (% g$ M) also called
Ts'ing Cheng Shan (pf ^S. |Ij). at which place according to
6 MYTHICAL AND PRACTICAL IN SZECHVVAN.
the records is to be found a thousand year old tree, a peh
ko shu (Q ^ ^), dating from the Han Dynasty, and a palm
tree with a double stem. The geomantic influences of this
mountain are said to be very far reaching, for anything within
800 li is supposed to come under the influence of its eighteen
Yin (P:^, female) and eighteen Yang (|^, male) peaks. There
are to be found the seventy-two caves in which are said to
be engraven the names of the celestials. Also three frown-
ing cliffs which resemble a lion's head, and the six phoenix
cliffs which are hidden in the wood. During the T'ang '^)
Dynasty the Emperor visited the place and a tablet is erected
to that effect. There is a hill on the left known as Ts'ing
Long Kang (^ f| \^), or Green Dragon Mound.
On the right there is a black tiger naturally formed in
the rock. Within the supposed influence of this mountain,
are mountains rising to the height of 3,600 feet. Below the
principal temple, about three li distant, is a smaller one
called the Fei Sien Kwan (^ -fllj §§,) or Spirits' Monastery,
the place where the celestials, after engraving their names
in the cave, flew up to heaven. Above th^ main temple
is a peak known as P'entsu Feng (0 jjil, ^) after a
man named P'entzu who lived to be over a btrnd^ed years
of age in the time of the Cheo Dynasty (^ '^^), before
the time of Confucius. Near by is a place known as Wang P'o
Keo (3E^^) made famous by the report that here Ri Lang
( — US) or Ch'uan Chu (jlli) caught the dragon, now supposed
to be chained in the pool at the Fuh Long Kwan at Kwan
Hsien, the chain of which is believed to be changed once a
year. This Wang P'o (3E ^) is said to be the mother of
the dragon. She had a son who found a lucky place where
each day a bundle of grass grew on the same spot owing to
the presence of precious metal in the earth. This metal he
brought home and put in the water butt and daily there was
a supply of water; then his mother put it into the rice bin
and daily there was rice to eat. One daj', when his mother
was out, he swallowed the precious metal, and became
thirsty and drank the water-butt dry ; still he was thirsty, so
he fled to the river and jumped in and became the nih long
(^ p|). or Guilty Dragon, having only one human foot
left, when he was seized by Ri Lang, At the back of
the mountain is a cliff known as the Kin Pien lai (^
^ J^) or Golden Whin Cliff, which takes its name from
Li-ts'ing Wong (^ ^ BE) of the Luh Dynasty (yS; ^)
who came to subjugate the aboriginal tribes, then in
full possession of the country. After subjugating Cheng-
tu (^ ^), Tsongk'ing Cheo (^ ^ iHi) etc., his golden
baton was thrown up here; hence the name Kin Pien lai
(# ^ J^). Close by the temple there is a well known as
Wei Cheoclooking South.
a suhoivision ol- the klvek within the
Walls of Kwan Hsien.
View from Kwan Hsien.
Tripod Barriers.
GREEN CITY HILL. 7
the Wenyang Tsing {^Jt Wj ^1^) 'i^to which if husband and
wife mutually stare, their youth will be renewed ; besides
this well there is a well of perpetually flowing water
and a bridge known as the San-long K'iao ( zl ?l^ ^ )
or Three-arched Bridge, which is situated in the middle of a
clifF. In this vicinity there are also two temples, one called
the Old Age Temple, Chang Ren Kwan (;^ A IS), so called
because 'an old a^e star' shines on this spot ; and the Shang-
tsing Kong (_hl|-^). It was here that Li Lao-tsi i^^^),
otherwise known as Li Ran (^^^) or Lao Kiiin (:^^), who
became a celestial, divided into three spirits, known as the Three
Pure Ones : T'ai Ts'ing (icffl) or Great Pure One ; U Ts'ing,
i^W, the Pearly Pure ; and Shang Ts'ing {±M), the Upper
Pure One. Here is also to be found a pool called the Ma-
ku Chii (l^^Ylil) where a girl named Ma (|^), after bathing
therein became a celestial, so the pool was called after her.
Here also is a Stone Bamboo Sprout Grove (^^W) ; ^"d
close by there is tKe gully known as the Pehiiin K'i where
white clouds are always springing up. This gully is also
known as the Shua-pih Ts'ao (fjilj^l^) or Shake-pencil Gully.
Legend has it that during the Han Dynasty i^^) the
famous Chang Tao-lin (5^jM^). vvhen he had fought and
overcome a wild beast, lifted the pencil with which he was
writing his charm, and threw the ink thereon after the beast
and it struck the hill, which split in two and the beast fled
through the opening. Another version says that Chang
Tao-lin cut this hill in two halves with his sword. On this
mountain is also to be found the famous cave known as the
Ts'ing Cheng Tong i^^MJ fi'om which the hill takes its
name, Ts'ing Ch'eng Shan (^^]\\). It is said that if you
go far enough into this cave you come to another world of
men and things quite different from this.
Close by is the Ch'ang Seng Kong (:^^^) or Long
Life Temple, which has a reputation for giving long life^to
Its devotees. There is also the Hsiang Tsih Si (^Tu^).
where are to be seen eight great marvels, spoken of as the
Pah Ta King (A:^:^). These eight curiosities are dif^cult
to find, but a few are given herewith. First the Leo-mi
Shih (|^:J|v^) or Leak-rice Stone. At the Hsiang Tsih Si there
used to be lots of priests, and this rock used to drop enough
rice daily for the use of all ; if there were guests it dropped
more, if none it dropped less; this continued till a greedy
priest thought to make profit out of it by making the hole
bigger, when the supply ceased altogether. Then there is the
Ki-kuh Ch'i (l^'ltvlil), Chicken-bone Tank. This tank used to
produce a chicken, and if the priests took the chicken and
killed it, and threw the bones back into the tank, the next
day there was another chicken ; till once the chicken
8 A1YTHICAL AND PRACTICAL IN SZECHWAN.
was sold, and the bones not thrown in and the supply ceased.
Next comes the Peh Long Ch'i (^ hIv&^ White Dragon Pool,
a covered well which never goes dry. This white dragon is
said to be the dog of Ri Lang, which on entering the well be-
came a celestial, hence it is said that Qfl:^z:ini^5^fpJ, "The
white dragon is the dog that called Heaven for the Ri Lang."
Then comes the Ku Hoh Ting, (Bik H Wj or Orphan
Crane Peak. This peak is said to be like a lonely crane
bereft of its mate sitting alone on high. The above are four
out of the eight marvels legend hands down to succeeding
generations. Another peak called the Ts'ien-iien Shan
(^ 7C lU) has a famous cave known as the Kin-kuang Tong
(^ it ii^- In this cave Kuang Ch'en-tsi (^ ^ ^), chief
disciple of Lao-Kiiin {-^ ^), is buried, and the grave sealed
up. On the hill known as the Su Chuang T'ai iW, IS ^)
an Empress of the JT'ang Dynasty if^ ^) named Ch'en
Niang-niang iW- *@ ^M^ became a priestess. At the Shang
Huang Kwan ( Jb :a£ IH^ there is a celestial cave. On the
Chang Ren Feng {'^ A ^) a celestial dissolved and
vanished away. At the P'ai-fang Kang (^ ^ \^) there is
the famous Wang-sien P'o (§1 jjll ^) the spot where pilgrims
of old watched the celestials come into the temples. In the
Hsiang-shui Tong (Pl^ ;^ J|^) or Rushing-water Cave, is
believed to be the seat of the geomantic pulse of the whole
district. On the Ta-mien Shan (:A: M Uj^ tradition has it
that Chao Kong-ming (@ ^ p) became both a celestial and
one of the gods of wealth; he is also known as Chao Oh,
(|| -^) or (it fM) Chao Yuh. At this place a high official of
the Sung Dynasty (5^ 1^) named Yao P'ing-chong (Wi ^ W)
became a celestial; and during the Han Dynasty ('Jl ^)
T'ien Si, (Jl ^) or Chang Tao-lin (^ ^ 15^\ whose ancestors
Chang koh (5^;^^ and Chang Ni (§^ "^^ trained up the
Huang-kin Tseh (^ ftl S^^ or Yellow-turbaned Robbers, to
make trouble, lived here. These two men are the originators
of what is now known as the Hong Teng'Kiao (|X ^ 1^^
Red Lantern Sect, or Boxers ; they also started many of the
Taoist delusions, hence the close connexion between Taoist
priests and Boxers. This Chang Tao-lin (§^ y^ |^) is said to
have opened the dragon's veins at the back of the temple,
and by his sword hewn three huge stones, with which he
shut the dragon down in a cave ; and from that time the use
of bricks to keep down demons began to be practised. It is
said that there are five bricks of this sort not far from the
south gate of Chengtu, and they are supposed to keep down
demons.
There are evidences that these districts, specially those
west of the Min River, were quite recentlj' occupied by the
aboriginal tribes, and the following from the Li-fan O ^)
OREBN CITY HTLr,.
history will do to introduce this very interesting study.
"During the Han Dynasty l*^^) the distric<:s of Sungpan
(t& '^) and Mao Cheo (^ t^\) were inhabited by a tribe known
as the Ti Ch'iang (Jg %), but in the Ming Dynasty (§B M\
in 1379, a certain official, called the Leveller, subdued them
and garrisoned thesecities, and settled two thousand Chinese
settlers on the soil. About 1511, Captains were appointed
to Shihts'uen (^ 7^) and Pati (A Mil* but a few years
later these tribes rebelled. At the close of the Ming
Dynasty (P ^), this rebellious spirit still existed, and during
the commotions at the change of the Dynasty the Mao Cheo
{^ ^) military post was abolished and the tribes encroached,
and even Weikiu (Jp JW) fell into disorder. Eventually the
Long Meng Tao (|| ^ a^> was instituted to keep order in