[range] in this section of its course. But, no matter. The coves, the heads of the
rivers, the approximation of their waters, the practicability of the mountain passes,
and the locality of the three parks, were all objects of interest; and, although well
known to hunters and trappers, were unknown to science and to history. We there-
fore changed our course, and turned up the Valley of the [North] Platte, instead of
going down it. ' '

Moving in a southeasterly direction, along the base of the main range,
with the North Platte upon his left, Fremont reentered the land of Colo-
rado about noon of June 15th; and in the evening of that day encamped
on the river at a place a few miles southwest of the present hamlet of
Pinkhampton (in Larimer Coimty). "The valley narrowed as we as-
cended," says he, "and presently degenerated into a gorge, through which
the river passed as through a gate. We entered it, and found ourselves
in the New Park [our "North Park"] — a beautiful circular valley of
thirty miles diameter, walled in all around with snowy mountains, rich
with water and with grass, fringed with pine on the mountain sides belo*
the snow-line, and a paradise to all grazing animals. The Indian name
for it signifies 'Cow Lodge', of which our own may be considered a trans-
lation; the enclosure, the grass, the water, and the herds of buffalo roam-
ing over it, naturally presenting the idea of a park."

Taking a course up the westward fork of the North Platte, Fremont
crossed the divide on the 17th and descended into our Middle Park,
which was then known as "Old Park". "We fell into a broad and excel-
lent trail, made by buffalo, where a wagon would pass with ease; and in
the course of the morning we crossed the summit of the Eocky Moun-
tains, through a pass which was one of the most beautiful we had ever
seen." Having followed Milk Creek to its union with the Grand Eiver,
the party here encountered a large band of Arapahoe and Sioux Indians,
who were disposed to make trouble until mollified by a generous number
of presents. Proceeding up the Blue Eiver, the explorers passed from its
farthest headwater in the southwestern part of the Middle Park across
the range to the head of the South Fork of the South Platte Eiver, in
the northwestern section of the South Park, on the 21st. Moving down
the South Fork on the next day, the party passed, about noon, within
hearing distance of a luittle between TJte and Arapahoe Indians; and
during the afternoon Pike's Peak was plainly in view. "This was a
familiar object", says Fremont, "and it had for us the face of an old
friend. At its foot were the springs, where we had spent a pleasant
day in coming out. Near it were the habitations of civilized men; and
it overlooked the broad, smooth plains, which promised us an easy journey
to our home." Of his exit from the South Park and descent from the
mountains to "the haliitations of civilized men", the leader's report tells
the followinsr :



122 HISTOKY OF COLORADO

"The next clay [June 22(1] we left the river [the South Fork of the South
Platte], which continued its course toward Pike's Peak; and, taking a southeasterly
direction, in about ten miles we crossed a gentle ridge, and, issuing from the South
Park, we found ourselves involved among the broken spurs of the mountains which
border the great prairie plains. Although broken and extremely rugged, the country
was very interesting, being well watered by numerous affluents to the Arkansas River,
and covered with grass and a variety of trees. The streams which, in the upper
part of their courses, ran through grassy and open hollows, after a few miles all
descended into deep and impracticable canons, through which they found their way
to the Arkansas Valley. Here the buffalo trails we had followed were dispersed
among the hills, or crossed over into the more open valleys of other streams. During
the day our road was fatiguing and difficult, reminding us much, by its steep and
rocky character, of our travelling the year before among the Wind Eiver Mountains;
but always at night we found some grassy bottom, which afforded us a pleasant
camp. In the deep seclusion of these little streams we found always an abundant
pasturage and a wild luxuriance of plants and trees. . . . After several days'
laborious travelling we succeeded in extricating ourselves from the mountains, and on
the morning of the 28th encamped immediately at their foot, on a handsome tributary
of the Arkansas Eiver. In the afternoon we descended the stream, winding our
way along the bottoms, which were densely wooded with oak, and in the evening en-
camped near the main river. Continuing the next day our road along the Arkansas,
and meeting on the way a war party of Arapahoe Indians (who had recently com-
mitted some outrages at Bent's Fort, killing stock and driving off horses), we ar-
rived before sunset at the pueblo near the mouth of the Fontaine qui Bouit Eiver,
where we had the pleasure to find a number of our old acquaintances. ' '

Leaving the Pueblo on June 30th, Fremont's ''cavalcade moved rap-
idly down the Arkansas, along the broad road which follows the river",
and in the afternoon of the next day arrived at Bent's Fort. "As we
emerged into view from the groves on the river, we were saluted with a
display of the national flag and repeated discharges from the guns of
the fort, where we were received by Mr. George Bent with a cordial wel-
come and a friendly hospitality, in the enjoyment of which we spent
several very agreeable days."

Fremont set out from Bent's Fort upon his way to the Missouri
Eiver on July 5th, continuing upon the "broad wagon road" down the
Arkansas for about twenty miles, where he crossed northeastwardly to the
headwaters of the Smoky Hill Eiver. Following the course of this
stream to a point near the site of the present town of Lindsborg, Kan-
sas, he diverged to the Santa Fe Trail, upon which he proceeded eastward,
arriving at "the little town of Kansas" on the last day of that month.
On August 1st, the party boarded a steamboat bound for St. Louis,
where the organization was disbanded a week later.

Fremont's third expedition into and beyond the Rocky Mountains,
and on which he crossed from east to west the central part of Colorado's
domain, was undertaken in the summer of 1845. Of its purposes, he
tells the following in his Memoirs:

"Concurrently with the Eeport upon the second expedition the plans and scope
of a third one had been matured. It was decided that it should be directed to that
section of the Rocky Mountains which gives rise to the Arkansas Eiver, the Rio Grande
del Norte of the Gulf of Mexico, and the Rio Colorado of the Gulf of California; to
complete the examination of the Great Salt Lake and its interesting region ; and to
extend the survey west and southwest to the examination of the great ranges of the
Cascade Mountains and the Sierra Nevada, so as to ascertain the lines of communica-
tion through the mountains to the ocean in that latitude. And in arranging this ex-
pedition, the eventualities of war were taken into consideration.

' ' The geographical examinations proposed to be made were in greater part in



HISTOKY OF COLORADO 123

Mexican territory. This was the situation: Texas was gone and California was break-
ing off by reason of distance; the now increasing American emigration was sure to
seek its better climate. Oregon was still in dispute; nothing was settled except the
fact of a disputed boundary; and the chances of a rupture with Great Britain lent
also its contingencies.

"Mexico, at war with the United States, would inevitably favor English pro-
tection for California. English citizens were claiming payment for loans and in-
demnity for losses. Our relations with England were already clouded, and in the
event of war with Mexico, if not anticipated by us, an English fleet would certainly
take possession of the Bay of San Francisco. ' '

The third expedition was organized upon the familiar ground at
the mouth of the Kansas Elver. Of the preparations and personnel of
the organization, Fremont, novy a Brevet-Captain by President Tyler's
appointment, says in his Memoirs:

". . . For this expedition ampler means had been provided, and in view of
uncertain conditions the force suitably increased. In addition to the usual outfit of
arms I had procured about a dozen rifles, the best that could be found ; with the object
of setting them up as prizes for the best marksmen, to be shot for during the
journey. Many of my old men joined me. And I had again Godey.

"The animals I had left on pasture were in fine condition; hardened by the
previous journey and thoroughly rested, they were well fitted to endure a campaign.
From the Delaware nation twelve men had been chosen to go with me. These were
known to be good hunters and two of them were chiefs, Swanok and Sagundai. Mr.
Preuss was not with me this time; but was now in assured employment and preferred
in his comfortable home to rest from the hardships of the last journey. In his place
Mr. Edward M. Kern, of Philadelphia, went with me as topographer. He was besides
an accomplished artist; his skill in sketching from nature and in accurately drawing
and coloring birds and plants made him a valuable accession to the expedition. Lieu-
tenants Abert and Peck had been attached to my command, and also with me were
Mr. James McDowell, a nephew of Mrs. Benton, and Mr. Theodore Talbot, whose
health had been restored by the previous journey. ' '

The organization traveled the Santa Fe Trail to its crossing of the
Arkansas Elver, and thence followed the old trail of the fur traders up
the northward bank of that river, arriving at Fort Bent on August 2d.
No exceptional incidents had occurred during the march. The Memoirs
of tlie Pathfinder now go on to say :

' ' This was our real point of departure. It was desirable to make a survey of
the prairie region to the southward, embracing the Canadian and other rivers. I
accordingly formed a detached party, in charge of which I placed Lieutenants Abert
and Peck, Lieutenant Abert being in chief command. Including these officers, the
command consisted of thirty-three men, and I had the good fortune to secure my
friend Mr. Fitzpatriok for their guide. I had endeavored to obtain the services of
an Indian who knew well the country, and was a man of great influence, especially
among the Camanches, but no offer that I could make him would induce him to go.
It happened that the Fort [Fort Bent] was well provisioned, and from its supplies
we were able to furnish the party with a good outfit. . . .

' ' On the 12th Mr. Fitzpatrick took leave of me and joined the party. On the
same day Lieutenant Abert changed his encampment preparatory to making his start,
and on the 14th the two officers came to take leave of me. . . . The next day I
sent Lieutenant Abert his instructions, which were to survey the Canadian from its
source to its junction with the Arkansas, taking in his way the Purgatory River, and
the heads of the Wasliita; and on the 16th he commenced his journey down the
Arkansas [to the Purgatory]. With lieutenant Abert also went Jlr. James Mc-
Dowell, who decided to avail himself of this survey to return for the reason that his
work would not be carried into the winter, while my journey to the Pacific was ex-
pected to be of long duration.

"From the Fort I sent an express to Carson at a rancho, or stock farm, which



124: HISTUEY OF COLORADO

with his friend Eiehard Owens he had established on the Cimarron, a tributary to the
Arkansas Eiver. But he had promised that in the event I should need him, he would
join me. And I knew that he would not fail to come. My messenger found him
busy starting the congenial work of making up a stock ranch. There was no time to
be lost, and he did not hesitate. He sold everything at a sacrifice, farm and cattle;
and not only came liimself but brought his friend Owens to join the party. This was
like Carson, prompt, self-sacrificing, and true. I received them both with great satis-
faction. That Owens was a good man it is enough to say that he and Carson were
friends. Cool, brave, and of good judgment; a good hunter and good shot; ex-
perienced in mountain life; he was an acquisition, and proved valuable throughout
the campaign. Godey had proved himself during the preceding journey, which had
brought out his distinguishing qualities of resolute and aggressive courage. . . .
I mention him here because the three men come fitly together, and because of the .
peculiar qualities which gave them in the highest degree efficiency for the service in
which they were engaged. The three, under Kapoleon, might have become Marshals,
chosen as he chose men. Carson, of great courage, quick and complete perception,
taking in at a glance the advantages as well as the chances for defeat; Godey, in-
sensible to danger, of perfect coolness and stubborn resolution; Owens, equal in
courage to the others, and in coolness equal to Godey. . . . Godey was a Creolo
Frenchman of Saint Louis, of medium height, with black eyes and silky curling black
hair which was his pride. In all situations he had that care of his person which
good looks encourage. ' '

Fremont left Fort Bent on August 16th, proceeding up the north-
ward side of the Arkansas Eiver, upon the old trail, "with a well-
appointed compact party of sixty; mostly experienced and self-reliant
men, equal to any emergency likely to occur and willing to meet it".
The route l)y which they were to cross the mountains was by way of the
Arkansas to the Continental Divide, but their rate of travel to the summit
was slow. The evening camp of the 20th was made at the mouth of
the Fontaine. The caravan crossed the river at a point a few miles
above the site of the city of Pueblo, and continued on the south side of
the stream — upon Mexican territory — to the mouth of the Grand Canon,
where the river was recrossed, arriving there in the evening of August
26th. Fremont says that after resuming the march in the next morning,
"we passed in our way over a bench of the mountain wlaich the trappers
believed to be the place where Pike was taken prisoner by the Mexicans.
But this side of the river was within our territory. He supposed him-
self to be on the Arkansas [ !] when he was taken prisoner on the Rio del
Norte, where he had built a stockade". In all the reports of his explora-
tions, this is Fremont's only reference to Captain Pike's operations in the
EocW Mountains.

Neither Fremont nor any of his men attempted to pass through
the Royal Gorge, the entire caravan malting a detour around it on the
northward side. After fording Currant Creek, some ten or twelve miles
above its confluence with the Arkansas, the party pursued a winding
course through the narrow mountain-valleys, approacliing at one point
close to the route Fremont had followed out of the South Park in the
year before, and struck the river on September 2d, in the vicinity of
the site of our town of Buena Yista. Crossing to the Mexican side of
the stream, the company moved up its valley, making more rapid prog-
ress than on previous stages of the march since leaving Fort Bent.
"This was pleasant traveling. The weather now was delightful and the
country beautiful. Fresh and green, aspen groves and pine woods and
clear rushing water, cool streams sparkling over rocky beds." From the



HISTORY OF COLUilADO m

head of the Arkansas, Fremont traversed the sxuiimit of the main range
to the head of Eagle Eiver, which he called "Piney Creek", on Septem-
ber 4th, probably by the pass which at present Isears his name. Pro-
ceeding down the course of the Eagle into the neighborhood of our
town of Minturn, he turned toward the Xorthwest, and crossed the
Grand Eiver several miles below the mouth of the present Egeria Creek.
Thence his course was west by noi-th to the head of the White River,
down wliieh he took his way into tlie country that now forms the State
of Utah.

Continuing westward, through the Utah Basin, Fremont entered Cal-
ifornia early in December (1845). In the next year, he bore a con-
spicuous part in the series of swiftly-moving events by which that Mexican
Province was attached to the territory of the United States.

At the close of our war with Mexico, Fremont, then a Lieutenant-
Colonel in the United States Army, resigned his commission and re-
turned to civil life. In the summer of 1848, he made preparations for
his fourth expedition into the Far West, and which was a private enter-
prise, in the interests of the city of St. Louis, for the survey of a route
for a railway to the Pacific Coast, he and Senator Benton bearing a large
part of the expense. As brought together at Westport (now a part of
Kansas City), in the fore part of October, of that year, Fremont's com-
pany numbered thirty-three men, most of whom had been with him in his
Ijrevious expeditions. Again he had Charles Preiiss, the Topographer;
E. M. Kern, Artist (together with the latter's brother, R. H. Kern);
and Alexander Godey, the hunter; but, unfortunately, Carson was not
and was not to be with him. Instead of wagons for transporting bag-
gage and supplies, a drove of pack-mules had been provided for that
service.

Leaving Westport on October 19th, Fremont traversed the plains of
Kansas by way of the Kansas River and its Smoky Hill fork, and from
the headwaters of the latter he went southwest to the Arkansas, arriving
at Fort Bent in the middle of November. His purpose was to take a
more southerly route across the ranges than any he had pursued in his
former explorations; and notwithstanding the warnings given him by
frontiennen and Indians then at the fort of the severe winter-conditions
existing in the mountains even that early in the season, he pushed for-
ward upon his mission.

With one hundred and twenty pack-mules in liis train, he moved
up the Arkansas to the Pueblo, where he found "Old Bill" Williams, a
noted rover of the plains and the mountains, whom he engaged to
serve as guide. Proceeding on up the river to the mouth of the Hard-
scrabble, Fremont, turned southwest, crossed the Sangre de Cristo Range
by way of Roubideau's Pass, and, at the beginning of December, en-
tered the San Luis Valley. "About the 11th of December," says Fre-
mont, "we found ourselves at the north of the Del Norte [Rio Grande]
Canon, where that river issues from the St. John's [San Juan] Moun-
tains, one of the highest, most nigged and impracticable of all the
Rocky Mountain ranges, inaccessible to trappers and hunters even in
the summer time. Across the point of this elevated range our guide
conducted us, and having still great confidence in his k-nowledge, we
pressed onwards with fatal resolution." While tlie traveling had been



126 HISTOEY OF COLORADO

hard since they passed the foot-hills, their troubles now began in earnest.
The dead of an unusually rigorous winter was at hand, the weather
bitterly cold, and the snow almost waist-deep. Of the occurrences dur-
ing the next ten or twelve days I quote the following from Fremont's
narrative :

"We pressed up towards the summit, the snow deepening; and in four or five
days reached the naked ridges which lie above the timbered country, and which form
the dividing grounds between the waters of the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. Along
these naked ridges it storms nearly all winter, and the winds sweep across them with
remorseless fury. On our first attempt to cross we encountered a pouderie (dry
snow driven thick through the air by \-iolent wind, and in which objects are visible
only at a short distance), and were driven back, having some ten or twelve men
variously frozen, face, hands or feet. The guide became nigh frozen to death here,
and dead mules were already lying about the fires. Meantime, it snowed steadily.
The next day we made mauls, and beating a road or trench through the snow crossed
the crest in defiance of the pouderie, and encamped immediately below in the edge of
the timber. The trail showed as if a defeated party had passed by; pack-saddles
and packs, scattered articles of clothing, and dead mules strewed along. A con-
tinuance of stormy weather paralyzed all movement. We were encamped somewhere
about 12,000 feet above the sea. Westward, the country was buried in deep snow.
It was impossible to advance, and to turn back was equally impracticable. We were
overtaken by sudden and inevitable ruin. It so happened that the only places where
any grass could be had were the extreme summit of the ridges, where the sweeping
winds kept the rocky ground bare and the snow could not lie. Below these, animals
could not get about, the snow being deep enough to bury them. Here, therefore, in
the full violence of the storms we were obliged to keep our animals. They could not
be moved either way. It was instantly apparent that we should lose eyery animal.

' ' I determined to recross the mountain more towards the open country, and haul
or pack the baggage (by men) down to the Del Norte. With great labor the bag-
gage was transported across the crest to the head springs of a little stream leading to
the main river. A few days were sufficient to destroy our fine band of mules. They
generally kept huddled together, and as they froze, one would be seen to tumble
down and the snow would cover him; sometimes they would break off and rush
down towards the timber until they were stopped by the deep snow, where they were
soon hidden by the pouderie. The courage of the men failed fast; in fact, I have
never seen men so soon discouraged by misfortune as we were on this occasion. . . .
In this situation, I determined to send in a party to the Spanish settlements of New
Mexico for provisions, and mules to transport our baggage to Taos. With economy,
and after we should leave the mules, we had not two weeks' provisions in the camp.
These consisted of a store which I had preserved for a hard day, macaroni and
bacon. From among the volunteers I chose King, Braekenridge, Creutzfeldt [the
botanist of the expedition], and the guide Williams; the party under the command
of King. In case of the least delay at the settlements, he was to send me an express.
In the meantime, we were to occupy ourselves in removing the baggage and equipage
down to the Del Xorte, which we reached with our baggage in a few days after their
departure (which was the day after Christmas)."

After waiting sixteen days without any tidings from King and his
party, the snow having continued to fall in the meantime almost without
cessation, and one of his men having frozen to death, Fremont resolved
to go in search of them. Leaving instructions to those who were to re-
main at the camp that if they did not hear from him within the stated
time thev were to follow down the river, the leader, accompanied by
Godey, Preuss, and a man from the ranks named Saunders, with a scant
supply of food, set out afoot upon the desperate errand, intending in the
event of failure to meet King to press on to the nearest Mexican settle-
ment and there send back relief for those left behind. On the sixth
day afterward, Fremont fell in with a small band of friendly Indians



HISTORY OF COLORADO 127

from whbm he obtained four feeble horses and a guide, and in the
evening of that day discovered Creutzfeldt, Braekenridge, and Williams
huddled by a little camp-fire awaiting death from starvation — "the most
miserable objects I have ever seen". King had died from exhaustion a
few days before. The four men, having lost their way soon after start-
ing upon their journey, had wandered over the San Luis Valley in
fruitless attempts to find a course to the settlements. Xearly a week had
elapsed since the last fragments of their provisions had been consumed.

AVith the amaciated men upon horses, Fremont and his companions
moved on southward, and reached an outlying iEexican settlement on
January 20th, "the tenth evening after leaving our camp in the moun-
tains, having, travelled through snow and on foot one hundred and sixty
miles". In the next morning, Fremont and Godey hastened to Taos ou
horseback. Two days later, CTodey and several Mexicans were upon their
way with horses and provisions to bring in the other members of the
ill-starred expedition. These, numbering twenty-two in all when Fre-
mont left them, after remaining at the camp a week longer, had started
down the river, almost destitute of food. On the third day of the
march, three or four men having died, the band broke up into small
groups, w-hich soon became scattered. Some members of these, in the
extremity of their sufferings from hunger, resorted to cannibalism. Witb