greatest descent made by any column in twenty-four con-
secutive hours.
This process of sinking iron columns is similar to that
which has been largely used in Europe and India for like
purposes, and for a few bridges in this country. By no
other known method can subaqueous foundations be
obtained with equal certainty and economy, where the
depth necessary to secure stability is very considerable.
RAILROAD BRIDGE OVER THE MISSOURI 29
The system is especially applicable to the construction of
foundations for bridges across rivers like the Missouri,
where the river-bed is composed chiefly of sand, and is
liable to scour to depths of 50 or 60 feet. In the
process of excavating sand from within the columns,
lignite rotten-wood and bones of animals were found at
the depth of 50 feet below water, showing that the river-
bed has been scoured to that extent at least.
The upper surface of the rock, in every case where the
columns reached it, was found to be worn smooth, pre-
senting an appearance very similar to the effect produced
on rock by the attrition of sand under great pressure.
For greater security, the rock at the base of the columns
was in every instance excavated to form a recess into
which the column was sunk, whereby any horizontal
motion of the base of the columns is effectually prevented.
The difficulties which were anticipated in sinking the
columns were surmounted as fast as they arose, so that
the work was in nowise delayed. In seven days, one of
the columns was sunk to its rock-bed at a depth of 72
feet, the greatest depth to which either of the eleven
columns was sunk being 82 feet.
The greatest pressure to which the men working in the
columns were subjected was 54 pounds per square
inch in excess of the atmosphere ; yet from this extreme
pressure, which is beyond precedent in works of this
character, no injury or inconvenience resulted to the
labourers. The bridge operations have fortunately been
free from serious accidents to life or property. It was
30 THE ATLANTIC TO THE PACIFIC
apprehended that the exposure of the labourers in the
iron columns to an atmosphere condensed to three times
its normal pressure might produce paralysis too severe,
in some cases, to yield to medical treatment ; but
experience has proved that injuries to a person are not
necessarily more frequent in the prosecution of work of
this peculiar character than in works of a different kind,
but of like magnitude. There have been employed in
all some 500 men, 250 being the average number; and
ten steam-engines have been required for hoisting, ex-
cavating, driving air-pumps, &c.
To connect the bridge with the main track of the
railroad on the west side of the river, a branch line of
road 7,000 feet in length has been constructed. From
the river bluff to the west abutment, a distance of 700
feet, a timber trestle-bridge, 60 feet in height, has been
built, around the timbers of which dirt is being filled as
fast as possible : so that, in a short time, a handsomely-
formed embankment will be made, which, on the river-
end, is faced by a stone wall for some 15 feet up the side.
The east approach will be by a continuous grade i-£
mile in length, commencing on the Council Bluffs table-
land, and ascending, at the rate of 35 feet to die mile, to
the east end of the iron bridge. The total quantity of
embankment in this approach is 550,000 cubic yards,
which is now almost completed.
The weight of the superstructure is a ton per lineal
foot. It is capable of sustaining a weight of ten tons
to the foot, in addition to its own weight ; but it is not
OMAHA TO SALT LAKE CL7Y 31
intended that a greater load than two tons to the foot shall
at any time be brought upon it. A train of the heaviest
locomotives would weigh about 1^ ton to the lineal foot.
Each wrought-iron piece of the superstructure was tested
with a tensile strain of five tons to the square inch of
sectional area, before being accepted ; and this strain is
as great as any portion of the bridge will be required to
endure under a load of two tons to the lineal foot.
The total cost of the bridge has been, in round
numbers, $1,750,000; and, although trains have been
running over it since spring, still the work goes on. It
is hoped that a few months will see the structure com-
pleted in every detail.
This bridge is the link which completes the chain
binding together the oceans. Even after the rails were
joined at Promontory (now a station on Central Pacific
Railroad, fifty-two miles west of Ogden), still the
Missouri had to be passed by a ferry. Now the passage
is made over the bridge in the cars of the 'Transfer
Company.' This Company was formed for the pur-
pose of transporting passengers and merchandise across
the bridge. By the payment of a stipulated sum to the
Transfer Company, freight is taken to the Far West with-
out breaking bulk.
To Salt Lake City. — At Omaha our journey upon
the Union Pacific Road begins. But one train leaves
daily, running through to the Pacific. Taking a section
in a Pullman car, we are entitled to enjoy a drawing-
32 THE ATLANTIC TO THE PACIFIC
room by day and a bed by night. These cars are
comfortable, cleanly, and the attaches, for the most
part, polite and accommodating. A throng of strange
faces are around us ; and all are busily engaged in pre-
parations for the journey.
For three or four miles we pass along the bluffs upon
which Omaha is built, and then push out into the open
prairie, the fertile lands of Nebraska. A vast plain, dotted
here and there with trees, stretches away upon every
side. Upon this broad prairie, at long intervals, the
cabin of the hardy frontiersman is seen, and now and
then a sturdy yeoman, with team of four, breaking up the
rich soil for the first planting.
We pass Gilmore, and reach Papillion, where the train
from the West awaits us upon the siding. Running
along the Elkhorn River, we soon come in view of the
hills to the South- West, which bound the Platte Valley ;
and, just before reaching Fremont, we catch our first
view of the Platte River, along the banks of which, now
upon the left, and then crossing to the right, we keep our
way as far as North Platte. The old emigrant road
followed this valley, and crossed the river at old ' Shinn's
Ferry,' near the station of Lone Tree.
Our day's journey brings us to Grand Island, a town
named after an island in the Platte. About 1,000 people
are gathered here, many connected with the railroad.
This is an ' eating station.' So far, our ride has been
pleasant ; and the passengers have generally become
acquainted with each other. In our car we have the
OMAHA TO SALT LAKE CLTY 33
genial Langford of Montana, who has graphically
described the wonders of the Yellowstone Valley; a
corps of engineers going out upon the line of the
Northern Pacific Railroad to push forward that highway
through that hitherto unexplored region ; several ladies
from my own New England city ; gentlemen from New
York and Boston, Chicago, and other cities — all enjoy-
ing with high spirits the novel experiences, and praising
the pure and exhilarating air of the plains.
Two other Pullmans are ahead of our car, each filled
with tourists. As the evening came on, the ladies and
gentlemen of the ' Berger-family Troupe ' visited our car,
and gave us a concert, both vocal and instrumental.
Our car contains an organ, in as good order as the
jarring will permit, for our entertainment.
Music sounds upon the prairie, and dies away far over
the plains ; merry-making and jokes, conversation and
reading, pass the time pleasantly till ten o'clock, when
we retire, to awake in the morning far out on the plains.
While in Europe, I was often asked if I had seen a
' wild Indian ' — one who carried a tomahawk, painted
his face, and wore feathers in his cap. Of course, having
rarely been, to my knowledge, within a thousand miles of
one of them, I could give but a faint idea of a ' wild
Indian ; ' and even here I have not been helped by the
sight of the few ' Pawnee ' who came around us at Grand
Island, saying, ' Good squaw ! ' ' Good Injun ! ' ' Give
five cents ! '
We have passed through the length of the state of
D
34 THE ATLANTIC TO THE PACIFIC
Nebraska, over whose broad acres the fleet antelope
runs, and the little prairie-dog digs its holes, and makes
its cities. The broad valleys furnish immense grazing-
fields ; the river-bottoms, rich farming-lands j and the
high ground along the road, sites for towns and villages.
As the railroad advanced from Omaha, each halting-
place, for a time, became the terminus, and was the
point where congregated all the roughs and desperadoes.
A large town would grow up in a few weeks, and in as
short a time pass away, and the deserted houses and
cabins now tell of departed glory and ruined business.
Through the state we follow along near the path over
which the pioneers of 1848 pushed on to the gold-fields
of California, their track being marked here and there by
the solitary graves of those whose strength failed.
Between the settlers of the prairies and the Omaha
people there is, it seems, a singular antipathy which is
somehow connected with a supposed willingness on the
part of Omaha to manage the affairs of the rest of the
state. The farmers tell you of the great sins of the
' Omahogs ; ' and in the city they sing their own praise,
and speak of all the state outside as peopled with
' Nebraskals.'
At Antelope, 451 miles west of Omaha, we have
our first view of the Rocky Mountains, whose snow-
capped peaks rise high above the Black Hills, often
hiding themselves in the clouds. To these mountains
we look anxiously, as they seem impassable ; and we
await with eager eye to behold the triumph of the
OMAHA TO SALT LAKE CLTY 35
engineer who has laid the track for the iron horse over
their very summit.
Many who have written of their journey have praised
the ' eating stations,' as they are called ; but I have found
so far the food ill cooked and poorly served. A free ticket
to dinner may have found aroma in the cup of chicory,
comfort in the burned steak, and solace in the black
bread. The Company would favour its patrons by re-
forming this part of their service. Still, do not take a
lunch-basket ; for it is always in the way. A man who
had such an institution, from which every now and then
was taken the rich food for the repast, to the evident
discomfort of the other passengers, with a devilled ham,
a devilled chicken, a devilled turkey and all the fixings,
tired at last with carrying about the great basket, ex-
claimed, ' Wife, I wish all these devilled things were to
the Devil r
Cheyenne. — We now enter the young Territory of
Wyoming. We have passed through the Lodge Pole
Creek Valley, which abounds with herds of antelope, and
where are found deer, bears, and wolves. Just before
we reach Cheyenne, we see directly before us the Rocky
Mountains, lifting their huge, dark sides against the sky.
Fifty miles to the south of Hillsdale, on the South Platte
River, is the often-described Fremont Grove of cotton-
wood-trees.
Cheyenne is the terminus of the second division of
the road (the first extending to North Platte), and is
36 THE ATLANTIC TO THE PACIFIC
also the junction of the Denver Pacific Railroad. A few
houses around the de'pot, the Company's buildings, and
a few scattered over the plain, form the city, where, a
few years ago, a defiant mob held sway, and all the
roughs from the States found a home. It is five hundred
and sixteen miles from Omaha, twelve hundred and sixty
from Sacramento, and a hundred and six from Denver.
On July 4, 1867, a single house stood on the site of the
city, which afterwards, at one time, had six thousand
inhabitants. Two newspapers are published here. The
people tell you that this is to become a large city, and
their expectations will doubtless be realised, though after
a longer interval than Western hopefulness is usually
prepared for. The abandonment of Fort Russell, a
military post which is supplied from Cheyenne, would
abate much of the present prosperity of the town, but it
must, for a long time, remain the distributing de'pot for
freight destined for Colorado and New Mexico.
The Rocky Mountains. — Leaving Cheyenne, we at once
begin the ascent of the slope of the Rocky Mountains, by
a steep grade ; two engines, with difficulty, drawing our
train up the mountain-side. 'We pass the quarries in
Granite Canon, twenty miles from Cheyenne, at 7,298
feet elevation. Wild, rugged, and grand are the peaks
which surround us. On every hand float great masses
of vapour, through which, now and then, appear the
snow-clad mountain-tops. It is a sea of fleecy clouds,
to which we seem so near, that we could reach the
OMAHA TO SALT LAKE CLTY 37
floating mass. To the south-west, above a broad, dark
line, rise the sunlit sides of Long's Peak. I now realise
the truthfulness of Bierstadt's paintings of the scenery of
these hills. The dark, deep shadow, the glistening
sides, and the snow-capped peaks, with their granite
faces, the stunted growth of pine and cedar, have been
faithfully reproduced on his canvas. Snow-banks twelve
feet deep are at the road-side ; and in the ravines be-
tween the mountains are seen huge heaps of snow and
ice. By slow stages we reach Sherman, at an elevation
of 8,242 feet above tide-water — the highest portion of
the Union Pacific line, and the highest railroad elevation
in the world. A severe storm prevails ; and, if one
should desire to paint Desolation, here is the scene for
him. The necessities of the road alone keep a few
people about the station. In the distance are seen
Long's and Pike's Peaks, with the Elk Mountains to the
north. Though the air is here so rarified that there is
some difficulty in breathing, yet, while the train waits
the time may be profitably occupied in walking about
the station, observing the different rock-formations and
the little mountain-flowers, which, with their tiny blooms,
greet the eye of the tourist, reminding him of their more
gaudy sisters which dwell in the valleys. The profusion
of blossoms in the plateau, called Laramie Plain, contrasts
with the sterility of the plains beyond. We have here
more than 300 distinct varieties of flowering plants,
From Sherman to Laramie the train runs without
steam, down a grade of forty-seven and a half feet per
38 THE ATLANTIC TO THE PACIFIC
mile, under the control of the air-brake. Dale-Creek
Bridge is a noble piece of trestle-work, one hundred and
twenty-six feet high, spanning a picturesque valley,
through which trickles the creek. Now the fantastic red
sandstone rocks appear, rearing their spires, domes, and
castles from 500 to 1,000 feet above the road-bed. The
water, having washed away the loose material, has left
the hard rock, whose form has named a station, — Red
Buttes. To the south we see the Medicine Bow Moun-
tains, among the deeply serrated sides of which are the
springs that feed the Laramie River.
Laramie, the Western terminus of one of the five
divisions of the road, and the proposed site of extensive
railroad-shops, is a busy place. It is the natural outlet
of the Laramie Plain, a well-watered and fertile expanse,
which is now opened up as a great grazing field, over
which thousands of cattle roam. Several churches,
schools, and a newspaper, tell of prosperity.
Laramie is the place where sat the first legally-organized
jury of women on record, in the history of the trial and
decision of causes under the forms of law. It is said
that they all invoked Heaven's aid in making up their
verdict. How far the household duties were neglected
during the trial is not told ; but their obedient husbands,
who staid at home to mind the children, sang away the
hours with, —
Nice little baby, don't get in a fury,
'Cause mamma's gone to sit on the jury.
OMAHA TO SALT LAKE CLTY 39
At Laramie the Company have erected a capacious
hotel-building, which has become a favourite stopping-
place for tourists, who are not obliged to hurry over the
road. At this station, and all West of here, we shall see
the ' John Chinamen ' as road-hands. We pass Lookout,
Rock Creek, Como, from each of which places the rolling
prairies stretch far away. Then we strike into the coal-
country. At Carbon Station some 300 men are employed
in mining coal for shipment as far East as Omaha.
During the night we pass out of this region ; and morn-
ing finds us upon the banks of Green River, where begins
the Little Laramie Plain. Green-river Station is now a
deserted city, but was once a noted station on the over-
land road, from which point many an exploring expedi-
tion has started forth. We get a poor breakfast here.
The sun has risen brightly, and lights up the deep ravines
through which we are to find our way down into the Salt
Lake Basin. The country hereabouts is very uninviting,
barren hills and sage-bush land meeting the eye on all
sides. Passing Bryan station, the next, Granger, is in
Utah territory.
On the way from Granger to Evanston it was arranged
to hold religious services, the day being Sunday. Friends
from the other cars come into ours, and with the con-
ductor, porters, and train-men, fill every seat. The
Episcopal service appropriate for the day is read by one
of the passengers. After this a sermon is read. The
hymn,
When, Lord, to this our western land,
4 o THE ATLANTIC TO THE PACIFIC
is then read ; after which a select choir, composed of
members of a troupe of travelling minstrels sing, —
Nearer, my God, to thee,
and several other familiar tunes, closing with our national
hymn. Our services lasted nearly two hours ; and the
closest attention was given by all, the extraordinary cir-
cumstances of the occasion certainly detracting far less
than might have been expected from its solemnity.
We dined at Evanston, from bountifully-spread tables,
and were soon after at Wahsatch, which is the entrance
to Echo Canon. Passing through a tunnel 770 feet long,
we enter the North Fork. Around, the hills rise abruptly
on every side, the gloomy canons dividing them. We see
the towering, castle-like rocks which stand up out of the
hills ; we rush on through the ever-narrowing canon until
it becomes only a mere gorge, down which Echo Creek
dashes, marking out the track for the road. It seems
that God himself had designed this to be the gateway
through which we were to enter the valley. Castle Rock,
Hanging Rock, Pulpit Rock, frowning cliffs and receding
hills, come in view as the train speeds its way. At the
narrowest part of the ravine, on the top of the cliffs, may
still be seen the fortifications erected by the Mormons in
the year 1857 ; and, close to the brink, the huge bowlders
intended for the destruction of our troops, but, happily,
never used, and now only marring the landscape — monu-
ments of folly.
Away to the south now in full view are the snow-clad
Ed-w^'WeUe
•
c
OMAHA TO SALT LAKE CITY 41
Wahsatch Mountains, among the springs of which the
Weber River takes its rise, flowing thence into Salt Lake,
near Ogden. As we come to the river, it seems that
there is not room enough for both railroad and river, so
narrow is the pass; but man has conquered, the very
mountains furnishing a safe road-bed. Echo City is just
beyond this narrow pass ; and as it is the centre of a
fertile region, with the several rivers furnishing fish in
abundance, the place seems destined to gain some im-
portance.
Weber Canon is now entered ; and for miles the track
is laid along the banks of a dashing, foaming, angry
stream. High mountains bound this ravine on each side,
and in many places the road-bed is cut out of the hillside.
Every step presents new wonders. The rocks, apparently
from the effect of volcanic action, have assumed peculiar
forms ; the strata, in some places rising vertically from the
hills, like huge walls. These serrated rocks at one point
are called ' The Devil's Slide.'
A thrifty pine, of giant form, marks 1000 miles west
from Omaha. There it stands, a solitary sentinel, telling
to every passing traveller the same tale of home far away.
Occasionally, we catch glimpses of the peculiar yellow
stone which has rendered famous large sections far to the
North. Granite, slate, conglomerate, sandstone, and
limestone, are also seen.
Just where the river is forced between two great walls
of rock into a foaming, boiling current which rushes
madly on, the road crosses the stream, and we soon
42 THE ATLANTIC TO THE PACIFIC
emerge into the fertile plain of Salt Lake Valley. The
Wahsatch Mountains are now passed, and we see on
either side the well-tilled farms of the Mormon settle-
ments. A short ride takes us to Ogden, a town of 4,000
souls, mostly Mormons, and the point of junction of the
Union Pacific and Central Pacific Railroads. I had de-
cided to visit Salt Lake City, on my way westward, and as
Ogden is the point of connexion with the Utah Central
Railroad, leading to Salt Lake, I here quitted the pleasant
company of those who had been my fellow passengers for
three days. Some few of them decided, however, to
join me in visiting the city of the ' Saints.' We reached
our destination in a journey of thirty-six miles, which was
accomplished in two hours, the railroad traversing a
southerly course along the shore of the Salt Lake.
The Mormons. — As we approach Salt Lake City the
first object which meets our view is the huge roof, oval
in form, of the tabernacle; then the groves of trees, bloom-
ing in almost tropical luxuriance ; and then, as we draw
nearer, the adobe houses of the farmers ; and, when
within the city limits, the cottages of the people, nestled
among their apple and peach orchards.
In the mellow twilight of the Sabbath day, the great
snow-clad mountains, whose weird forms rise on every
side of the valley ; the houses of the rich Mormon trader ;
the cottages surrounded by luxuriant gardens ; broad
streets, along either side of which rippled a little brook-
let ; long blocks of stores ; the walls of the Mormon
SALT LAKE CITY— THE MORMONS 43
houses of worship, with the people who abide here going
and coming, — these are the sights we see in riding from
the de'pot to our hotel.
In journeying across the Continent, it is better to
remain over for a few days in this city, as well for rest, as
to see this interesting place, and also to make preparation
for the balance of the trip ; for, if not already provided
therewith, a little gold will be required to pay for meals
and other unavoidable expenses. The ' Walker House '
here has 130 rooms, and is reputed to be the best hotel
west of Chicago, on the overland route. The Townsend
House is the Mormon hotel, and is also favourably re-
membered by tourists who have lived there.
Refreshed by rest and sleep, we start out to ' do ' the
city. It lies upon a spur of the Wahsatch moun-
tains, the northern part being well upon the 'bench,'
from which a glorious view is had of the rest of the town
and adjoining country. It was settled July 24, 1847, by
Brigham Young and his followers, who, driven from
Nauvoo, in Illinois, had pushed westward through the
wilds of what is now Iowa, and across the plains, through
the mountain defiles, into this valley. This band of re-
ligious zealots soon organised a government, calling their
State ' Deseret ' 1 electing Mr. Young president, — a title
and office which he holds to this day. 2 As is well known,
' This name signifies the land of the honey-bee.
- At a general convention of the Mormon Church held in May
last, Mr. Young resigned all his civil offices, but still remains as
the head of the Church.
44 THE ATLANTIC TO THE PACIFIC
he was Governor of Utah for several years, until 1857,
during which time he did much towards developing the
Territory, whose 65,000 square miles include farm-lands,
great inland seas, wild mountain-ranges, and rich mines
of gold, silver, lead, and iron. The Valley in which this
city is situated is bounded on the east by the Wahsatch,
and on the west by the Oquirrh mountains, through
which deep canons extend, the only doors of ingress and
egress. To the East are Emigrant and Parley Passes,
through the former of which the Mormons came into the
Valley. As we came out of Echo Canon, the old stage-
road left the railroad, and turned off to the south, follow-
ing the Weber River, and entering the Salt Lake Valley
by the first mentioned canon.
Standing in the main street, and looking south-east, we
see Little Cottonwood Canon, where is located the Emma