John Evelyn.

Diary and correspondence, To which is subjoined the private correspondence between King Charles I. and Sir Edward Nicholas, and between Sir Edward Hyde, afterwards earl of Clarendon, and Sir Richard Browne (Volume 1) online

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Online LibraryJohn EvelynDiary and correspondence, To which is subjoined the private correspondence between King Charles I. and Sir Edward Nicholas, and between Sir Edward Hyde, afterwards earl of Clarendon, and Sir Richard Browne (Volume 1) → online text (page 26 of 46)
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other choice flowers. The Uhone running athwart the
town out of the Lake, makes half the city a suburb, which,
in imitation of Paris, they call St. Germain's Fauxbourg,
and it has a church of the same name. On two wooden
bridges that cross the river are several water-mills, and
shops of trades, especially smiths and cutlers ; between
the bridges is an island, in the midst of which is a very
ancient tower, said to have been built by Julius Caesar.
At the end of the other bridge is the mint, and a fair

Passing again by the Town-house, I saw a large croco-
dile hanging in chains ; and against the wall of one of the
chambers, seven judges were painted without hands, except
one in the middle, who has but one hand ; I know not the

1646.] JOHN EVELYN. 243

story. The Arsenal is at the end of this building, well-
furnished and kept.

After dinner, Mr. Morice led us to the college, a fair
structure ; in the lower part are the schools, which consist
of nine classes; and a hall above, where the students
assemble ; also a good library. They showed us a very
ancient Bible, of about 300 years old, in the vulgar French,
and a MS. in the old Monkish character : here have the
Professors their lodgings. I also went to the Hospital,
which is very commodious but the Bishop's Palace is now
a prison.

This town is not much celebrated for beautiful women,
for, even at this distance from the Alps; the gentlewomen
have something full throats, but our Captain Wray (after-
wards Sir William, eldest son of that Sir Christopher, who
had both been in arms against his Majesty for the Parlia-
ment) fell so mightily in love with one of Monsieur Saladine's
daughters that, with much persuasion, he could not be pre-
vailed on to think on his journey into France, the season
now coming on extremely hot.

My sickness and abode here cost me forty-five pistoles
of gold to my host, and five to my honest doctor, who for
six weeks' attendance and the apothecary thought it so
generous a reward that, at my taking leave, he presented
me with his advice for the regimen of my health, written
with his own hand in Latin. This regimen I much
observed, and I bless God passed the journey without
inconvenience from sickness, but it was an extraordinarily
hot unpleasant season and journey, by reason of the
craggy ways.

5th July. We took, or rather purchased, a boat, for it
could not be brought back against the stream of the
Rhone. We were two days going to Lyons, passing
many admirable prospects of rocks and cliffs, and near
the town down a very steep declivity of water for a full
mile. From Lyons, we proceeded the next morning,
taking horse to Roanne, and lay that night at Feurs. At
Roanne, we indulged ourselves with the best that all France
affords, for here the provisions are choice and plentiful,
so as the supper we had might have satisfied a prince.
We lay in damask beds, and were treated like emperors.
The town is one of the neatest built in all France, on the

R 2


brink of the Loire ; and here we agreed with an old fisher
to row us as far as Orleans. The first night, we came as
far as Nevers, early enough to see the town, the Cathedral
(St. Gyre), the Jesuits' College, and the Castle, a Palace
of the Duke's, with the bridge to it nobly built.

The next day, we passed by La Charite, a pretty town,
somewhat distant from the river. Here I lost my faithful
spaniel (Piccioli), who had followed me from Rome; it
seems he had been taken up by some of the Governor's;
pages, or footmen, without recovery; which was a great dis-
pleasure to me, because the cur had many useful qualities.

The next day, we arrived at Orleans, taking our turns
to row, of which I reckon my share came to little less than:
twenty leagues. Sometimes, we footed it through pleasant
fields and meadows ; sometimes, we shot at fowls, and other
birds ; nothing came amiss : sometimes, we played at
cards, whilst others sung, or were composing verses ; for
we had the great poet, Mr. Waller, in our company, and
some other ingenious persons.

At Orleans, we abode but one day ; the next, leaving
our mad Captain behind us, I arrived at Paris, rejoiced
that, after so many disasters and accidents in a tedious
peregrination, I was gotten so near home, and here I
resolved to rest myself before I went further.

It was now October, and the only time that in my whole
life I spent most idly, tempted from my more profitable
recesses ; but I soon recovered my better resolutions and
fell to my study, learning the High Dutch and Spanish
tongues, and now and then refreshing my dancing, and
such exercises as I had long omitted, and which are not in.
much reputation amongst the sober Italians.

1647, 28th January. I changed my lodging in the Place
de Monsieur de Metz, near the Abbey of St. Germains ;
and thence, on the 12th February, to another in Rue
Columbier, where I had a very fair apartment, which cost
me four pistoles per month. The 18th, I frequented a
course of Chemistry, the famous Monsieur Le Febure
operating upon most of the nobler processes. March 3rd,
Monsieur Mercure began to teach me on the lute, though
to small perfection.

In May, I fell sick, and had very weak eyes ; for which
I was four times let blood.

1647.] JOHN EVELYN. 245

22nd May. My valet (Herbert) robbed me of clothes
and plate, to the value of threescore pounds; but, through
the diligence of Sir Richard Browne, his Majesty's Resi-
dent at the Court of France, and with whose lady and
family I had contracted a great friendship (and particularly
set my affections on a daughter), I recovered most of them,
obtaining of the Judge, with no small difficulty, that the
process against the thief should not concern his life, being
his first offence.

10th June. We concluded about my marriage, in order
to which I went to St. Germains, where his Majesty, then
Prince of Wales, had his court, to desire of Dr. Earle,
then one of his chaplains (since Dean of Westminster,
Clerk of the Closet, and Bishop of Salisbury) that he
would accompany me to Paris, which he did; and, on
Thursday, 27th June, 1647, he married us in Sir Richard
Browne's chapel, betwixt the hours of eleven and twelve,
some few select friends being present : and this being
Corpus Christi feast was solemnly observed in this country ;
the streets were sumptuously hung with tapestry, and
strewed with flowers.

10th September. Being called into England, to settle
my affairs after an absence of four years, I took leave of
the Prince and Queen, leaving my Wife, yet very young,
under the care of an excellent lady and prudent mother.

4th October. I sealed and declared my Will, and that
morning went from Paris, taking my journey through
Rouen, Dieppe, Yille-dieu, and St. Vallerie, where I stayed
one day with Mr. Waller, with whom I had some affairs,
and for which cause I took this circle to Calais, where I
arrived on the llth, and that night embarking in the
packet-boat, was by one o'clock got safe to Dover; for
which I heartily put up my thanks to God who had con-
ducted me safe to my own country, and been merciful to
me through so many aberrations. Hence, taking post, I
arrived at London the next day at evening, being the
second of October, new style.

5th. I came to Wotton, the place of my birth, to
my brother, and on the 10th to Hampton Court, where
I had the honour to kiss his Majesty's hand, and give him
an account of several things I had in charge, he being
now in the power of those execrable villains who not long


after murdered him. I lay at my cousin, Serjeant Hat-
ton's, at Thames Ditton, whence, on the 13th, I went to

14th. To Sayes Court, at Deptford, in Kent (since my
house), where I found Mr. Pretyman, my Wife's uncle,
who had charge of it and the estate about it, during my
father-in-law's residence in France. On the 15th, I again
occupied my own chambers in the Middle Temple.

9th November. My sister opened to me her marriage
with Mr. Glanville.

1647-8, 14th January. From London, I went to Wot-
ton, to see my young Nephew ; and thence to Baynards,
[in Ewhurst] to visit my Brother Richard.

5th February. Saw a tragi-comedy acted in the Cock-
pit, after there had been none of these diversions for many
years during the war.

28th. I went with my noble friend, Sir William Ducy,
(afterwards Lord Downe) to Thistleworth, where we dined
with Sir Clepesby Crew, and afterwards to see the rare
miniatures of Peter Oliver, and rounds of plaster, and
then the curious flowers of Mr. Barill's garden, who has
some good medals and pictures. Sir Clepesby has fine
Indian hangings, and a very good chimney-piece of water-
colours, by Breughel, which I bought for him.

26th April. There was a great uproar in London, that
the rebel army quartering at Whitehall, would plunder
the City, on which there was published a Proclamation
for all to stand on their guard.

4th May. Came up the Essex petitioners for an agree-
ment betwixt his Majesty and the rebels. The 16th, the
Surrey men addressed the Parliament for the same ; of
which some of them were slain and murdered by Crom-
well's guards, in the new Palace Yard. I now sold the
impropriation of South Mailing, near Lewes, in Sussex, to
Mr. Kemp and Alcock, for 3000/.

30th. There was a rising now in Kent, my Lord
of Norwich being at the head of them. Their first ren-
dezvous was in Broome-field next my house at Sayes
Court, whence they went to Maidstone, and so to Col-
chester, where was that memorable siege.

27th June. I purchased the manor of Hurcott, in.
Worcestershire, of my brother George, for 3,300/.

1648.] JOHN EVELYN. 247

1st July. I sate for ray picture, in which there is a
Death's head, to Mr. Walker, that excellent painter.

10th. News was brought me of my Lord Francis Villiers
being slain by the rebels near Kingston.

16th August. I went to Woodcote (in Epsom) to the
wedding of my Brother, Richard, who married the daughter
and co-heir of Esquire Minn, lately deceased ; by which
he had a great estate both in land and money on the
death of a brother. The coach in which the bride and
bridegroom were, was overturned in coming home; but
no harm was done.

28th. To London from Sayes Court, and saw the cele-
brated follies of Bartholomew Fair.

16th September. Came my lately married Brother,
Richard, and his Wife, to visit me, when I showed them
Greenwich, and her Majesty's Palace, now possessed by
the rebels.

28th. I went to Albury, to visit the Countess of
Arundel, and returned to Wotton.

31st October. I went to see my manor of Preston
Beckhelvyn, and the Cliff house.

29th November. Myself, with Mr. Thomas Offley, and
Lady Gerrard, christened my Niece Mary, eldest daughter
of my Brother, George Evelyn, by my Lady Cotton, his
second wife. I presented my Niece a piece of plate which
cost me 18/., and caused this inscription to be set on it :

In memoriam facti :

Anno clo.lx.xlnx. Cal. Decem. vin. Virginum castiss : Xtianorum inno-
centiss : Nept : suavis : Marise, Johan : Evelynus Avunculus et Sus-
ceptor Vasculum hoc cum Epigraphe L. M. Q. D.

Ave Maria Gratia sis plena ; Dominus tecum.

2nd December. This day I sold my manor of Hurcott
for 3,400/. to one Mr. Bridges.

13th. The Parliament now sat up the whole night, and
endeavoured to have concluded the Isle of Wight Treaty ;
but were surprised by the rebel army ; the Members dis-
persed, and great confusion every where in expectation of
what would be next.

17th. I heard an Italian sermon, in Mercers' Chapel,
one Dr. Middleton, an acquaintance of mine, preaching.


18th. I got privately into the council of the rebel
army, at Whitehall, where I heard horrid villanies.

This was a most exceeding wet year, neither frost nor
snow all the winter for more than six days in all. Cattle
died every where of a murrain.

1648-9, 1st January. I had a lodging and some books at
my father-in-law's house, Sayes Court.

2nd. I went to see my old friend and fellow-traveller, Mr.
Henshaw,whohadtwo rarepieces of Stenwyck's perspective.

17th. To London. I heard the rebel, Peters, incite the
rebel powers met in the Painted Chamber, to destroy his
Majesty, and saw that archtraitor, Bradshaw, who not long
after condemned him.

19th. I returned home, passing an extraordinary danger
of being drowned by our wherries falling foul in the night
on another vessel then at anchor, shooting the bridge at
three quarters' ebb, for which His mercy God Almighty be

21st. Was published my translation of Liberty and Ser-
vitude, for the preface of which I was severely threatened.

22nd. I went through a course of chymistry, at Sayes
Court. Now was the Thames frozen over, and horrid
tempests of wind.

The villany of the rebels proceeding now so far as to try,
condemn, and murder our excellent King on the 30th of
this month, struck me with such horror, that I kept the
day of his martyrdom a fast, and would not be present at
that execrable wickedness, receiving the sad account of it
from my brother George, and Mr. Owen, who came to visit
me this afternoon, and recounted all the circumstances.

1st February. Now were Duke Hamilton, the Earl of
Norwich, Lord Capell, &c. at their trial before the rebels'
New Court of Injustice.

15th. I went to see the collection of one Trean, a rich
merchant, who had some good pictures, especially a rare
perspective of Stenwyck ; from thence, to other virtuosos.

The painter, La Neve, has an Andromeda, but I think it
a copy after Vandyke from Titian, for the original is in
France. Webb, at the Exchange, has some rare things in
miniature of Breughel's, also Putti,* in twelve squares, that
were plundered from Sir James Palmer.

* Putti Boys' Heads.

1649.] JOHN EVELYN. 249

At Du Bois, we saw two tables of Putti, that were gotten,
I know not how, out of the Castle of St. Angelo, by old
Petit, thought to be Titian's ; he had some good heads of
Palma, and one of Stenwyck. Bellcar showed us an excel-
lent copy of his Majesty's Sleeping Venus and the Satyr,
with other figures ; for now they had plundered, sold, and
dispersed a world of rare paintings of the King's, and his
loyal subjects. After all, Sir William Ducy showed me
some excellent things in miniature, and in oil of Holbein's,
Sir Thomas More's head, and a whole length figure of
Edward VI., which were certainly his Majesty's ; also a
picture of Queen Elizabeth ; the Lady Isabella Thynne > a
.rare painting of Rothenhamer, being a Susanna ; and a
Magdalen, of Quintin, the blacksmith; also a Henry VIII.,
of Holbein; and Francis the First, rare indeed, but of
whose hand I know not.

16th. Paris being now strictly besieged by the Prince de
Conde, my Wife being shut up with her Father and
Mother, I wrote a letter of consolation to her : and, on the
22nd, having recommended Obadiah Walker,* a learned
and most ingenious person, to be tutor to, and travel with
Mr. Hillyard's two sons, returned to Sayes Court.

25th. Came to visit me Dr. Joyliffe, discoverer of the
lymphatic vessels, and an excellent anatomist.

26th. Came to see me Captain George Evelyn,f my kins-
man, the great traveller, and one who believed himself a
better architect than really he was ; witness the portico in
the garden at Wotton ; yet the great room at Albury is
somewhat better understood. He had a large mind, but
over-built every thing.

27th. Came out of France my Wife's Uncle (Paris still
besieged) being robbed at sea by the Dunkirk pirates : I
lost, among other goods, my Wife's picture, painted by
Monsieur Bourdon.

5th March. Now were the Lords murdered in the Palace-

18th. Mr. Owen, a sequestered and learned minister,

* Mr. Evelyn has added in the margin against Walker's name, " Since an
apostate." He was Master of University College, Oxford.

+ Son of Sir John Evelyn, of Godstone : see Pedigree in the History of
Surrey, vol. II., p. 150 ; but where he is by mistake stated to be brother of
Sir John.

J Duke Hamilton, the Earl of Holland, and Lord Capel.


preached in my parlour, and gave us the Blessed Sacrament,
now wholly out of use in the parish churches, on which the
Presbyterians and fanatics had usurped.

21st. I received letters from Paris from my Wife, and
from Sir Richard [Browne] , with whom I kept a political
correspondence, with no small danger of being discovered.

25th. I heard the Common Prayer (a rare thing in
these days) in St. Peter's, at Paul's Wharf, London ; and,
in the morning, the Archbishop of Armagh, that pious
person and learned man, Usher, in Lincoln's Inn Chapel.

April 2nd. To London, and inventoried my moveables
that had hitherto been dispersed for fear of plundering :
wrote into France, touching my sudden resolutions of
coming over to them. On the 8th, again heard an excel-
lent discourse from Archbishop Usher, on Ephes. 4.,
v. 26-27.

My Italian collection being now arrived, came Moulins,
the great chirurgeon, to see and admire the Tables of
Veins and Arteries, which I purchased and caused to be
drawn out of several human bodies at Padua.

llth. Received news out of France that peace was con-
cluded ; dined with Sir Joseph Evelyn, at Westminster ;
and on thelSth, I sawa private dissection, atMoulins'house.

1 7th. I fell dangerously ill of my head ; was blistered
and let blood behind the ears and forehead ; on the 23rd
began to have ease by using the fumes of camomile on
embers applied to my ears, after all the physicians had done
their best.

29th. I saw in London a huge ox bred in Kent, 17 feet
in length, and much higher than I could reach.

12th May. I purchased the Manor of Warley Magna, in
Essex : in the afternoon, went to see Gildron's collections
of paintings, where I found Mr. Endymion Porter, of his
late Majesty's Bedchamber.

17th. Went to Putney by water, in the barge with divers
ladies, to see the Schools, or Colleges, of the young gentle-

19th. To see a rare cabinet of one Delabarr, who had
some good paintings, especially a monk at his beads.

* Kept probably by Mrs. Bathsua Makins, the most learned woman of her
time ; she had been tutoress to the Princess Elizabeth, King Charles's second
daughter. There is a very rare portrait of her, by Marshall.

1649.] JOHN EVELYN. 51

30th. Un-kingship was proclaimed, and his Majesty's
statues thrown down at St. Paul's Portico, and the

7th June. I visited Sir Arthur Hopton (brother to Sir
Ralph, Lord Hopton, that noble hero), who having been
Ambassador Extraordinary in Spain, sojourned some time
with my Father-in-law, at Paris ; a most excellent person.
Also Signdra Lucretia, a Greek Lady, whom I knew in
Italy, now come over with her husband, an English gentle-
man. Also, the Earl and Countess of Arundel, taking leave
of them and other friends now ready to depart for France.
This night was a scuffle between some rebel soldiers and
gentlemen about the Temple.

10th. Preached the Archbishop of Armagh in Lincoln's-
Inn, from Romans 5, verse' 13. I received the Blessed
Sacrament, preparatory to my journey.

13th. I dined with my worthy friend, Sir John Owen,
newly freed from sentence of death among the Lords that
suffered. With him was one Carew, who played incompa-
rably on the Welsh harp : afterwards, I treated divers ladies
of my relations, in Spring Garden.

This night was buried with great pomp, Dorislaus, slain
at the Hague, the villain who managed the trial against his
sacred Majesty.

17th. I got a pass from the rebel, Bradshaw, then in
great power.

20th. I went to Putney, and other places on the Thames,
to take prospects in crayon, to carry into France, where I
thought to have them engraved.*

2nd July. I went from Wotton to Godstone (the resi-
dence of Sir John Evelyn), where was also Sir John Evelyn
of Wilts, when I took leave of both Sir Johns and their
ladies. Mem. the prodigious memory of Sir John of Wilts
daughter, since married to Mr. W. Pierrepont, and mother
of the present Earl of Kingston. I returned to Sayes
Court, this night.

4th. Visited Lady Hatton, her Lord sojourning at Paris
with my father-in-law.

9th. Dined with Sir Walter Pye, and my good friend,
Mr. Eaton, afterwards a judge, who corresponded with me
in France.

* One of these he etched himself. The plate is now at Wotton.


llth. Came to see me old Alexander Rosse, the divine
historian and poet ; Mr. Henshaw, Mr. Scudamore, and
other friends, to take leave of me.

12th. It was about three in the afternoon, I took oars
for Gravesend, accompanied by my cousin, Stephens, and
sister, Glanville, who there supped with me and returned ;
whence I took post immediately to Dover, where I arrived
by nine in the morning; and, about eleven that night, went
on board a bark guarded by a pinnace of eight guns ; this
being the first time the Packet-boat had obtained a convoy,
having several times before been pillaged. We had a good
passage, though chased for some hours by a pirate, but he
durst not attack our frigate, and we then chased him till
he got under the protection of the Castle at Calais. It was
a small privateer belonging to the Prince of Wales. I car-
ried over with me my servant, Richard Hoare, an incom-
parable writer of several hands, whom I afterwards pre-
ierred in the Prerogative Office* at the return of his
Majesty. Lady Catherine Scott, daughter of the Earl of
Norwich, followed us in a shallop, with Mr. Arthur Slingsby,
who left England incognito. At the entrance of the town,
the Lieutenant- Governor, being on his horse with the
.guards, let us pass courteously. I visited Sir Richard Lloyd,
an English gentleman, and walked in the church, where
the ornament about the high altar of black marble is very
fine, and there is a good picture of the Assumption. The
citadel seems to be impregnable, and the whole country
about it to be laid under water by sluices for many miles.

16th. We departed for Paris, in company with that very
pleasant lady (Lady Catharine Scott) and others. In all
this journey we were greatly apprehensive of parties, which
caused us to alight often out of our coach and walk sepa-
rately on foot, with our guns on our shoulders, in all
suspected places.

1st August. At three in the afternoon, we came to St.
Denis, saw the rarities of the church and treasury ; and
so to Paris that evening.

The next day, came to welcome me at dinner the Lord
High Treasurer Cottington, Sir Edward Hyde, Chancellor,
Sir Edward Nicholas, Secretary of State, Sir George Car-

* Where specimens of his writing in the entry of wills about this date may
now be seen.

1649.] JOHN EVELYN. 253

teret, Governor of Jersey, and Dr. Earle, having now been
absent from my Wife above a year and a half.

18th. I went to St. Germains, to kiss his Majesty's
hand ; in the coach, which was my Lord Wilmot's, went
Mrs. Barlow, the King's mistress and mother to the Duke
of Monmouth, a brown, beautiful, bold, but insipid creature.

19th. I went to salute the French King and the Queen
Dowager; and, on the 21st, returned in one of the Queen's
coaches with my Lord Germain, Duke of Buckingham,
Lord Wentworth, and Mr. Croftes, since Lord Croftes.

7th September. Went with my Wife and dear Cousin
to St. Germains, and kissed the Queen-mother's hand;
dined with my Lord Keeper and Lord Hatton. Divers of
the great men of France came to see the King. The next
day, came the Prince of Conde. Returning to Paris, we
went to see the President Maison's palace, built castle-
wise, of a milk-white fine freestone ; the house not vast,
but well contrived, especially the stair-case, and the orna-
ments of Putti, about it. It is environed in a dry moat,
the offices under-ground, the gardens very excellent with
extraordinary long walks, set with elms, and a noble pros-
pect towards the forest, and on the Seine towards Paris.
Take it altogether, the meadows, walks, river, forest, corn-
ground, and vineyards, I hardly saw anything in Italy
exceed it. The iron gates are very magnificent. He has
pulled down a whole village to make room for his pleasure
about it.

12th. Dr. Crighton, a Scotchman, and one of his Majes-
ties chaplains, a learned Grecian who set out the Council
of Florence, preached.

13th. The King invited the Prince of Conde to supper
at St. Cloud ; there I kissed the Duke of York's hand in
the tennis-court, where I saw a famous match betwixt
Monsieur Saumeurs and Colonel Cooke, and so returned
to Paris. It was noised about that I was knighted, a
dignity I often declined.

1st October. Went with my cousin, Tuke (afterwards

Online LibraryJohn EvelynDiary and correspondence, To which is subjoined the private correspondence between King Charles I. and Sir Edward Nicholas, and between Sir Edward Hyde, afterwards earl of Clarendon, and Sir Richard Browne (Volume 1) → online text (page 26 of 46)