John Evelyn.

Diary and correspondence, To which is subjoined the private correspondence between King Charles I. and Sir Edward Nicholas, and between Sir Edward Hyde, afterwards earl of Clarendon, and Sir Richard Browne (Volume 1) online

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Sir Samuel), to see the fountains of St. Cloud and Ruel;
and, after dinner, to talk with the poor ignorant and super-
stitious anchorite at Mount Calvary, and so to Paris.

2nd. Came Mr. William Coventry (afterward Sir Wil-
liam) and the Duke's secretary, &c., to visit me.



254 DIARY OF [PARIS,

5th. Dined with Sir George Radcliffe, the great favourite
of the late Earl of Straffbrd, formerly Lord Deputy of
Ireland, decapitated.

7th. To the Louvre, to visit the Countess of Moreton,
Governess to Madame.

15th. Came news of Drogheda being taken by the
rebels, and all put to the sword, which made us very sad,
fore-running the loss of all Ireland.

21st. I went to hear Dr. D'Avinson's lecture in the
physical garden, and see his laboratory, he being Prefect
of that excellent garden, and Professor Botanicus.

30th. I was at the funeral of one Mr. Downes, a sober
English gentleman. We accompanied his corpse to Cha-
renton, where he was interred in a cabbage- garden, yet
with the office of our church, which was said before in our
chapel at Paris. Here I saw also where they buried the
great soldier, Gassion, who had a tomb built over him like
a fountain, the design and materials mean enough. I
returned to Paris with Sir Philip Musgrave and Sir Mar-
maduke Langdale, since Lord Langdale. Memorandum.
This was a very sickly and mortal autumn.

5th November. I received divers letters out of England,
requiring me to come over about settling some of my
concerns.

7th. Dr. George Morley (since Bishop of Winchester)
preached in our chapel on Matthew iv., verse 3.

18th. I went with my father-in-law to his audience at
the French court, whe"re next the Pope's Nuncio he was
introduced by the master of ceremonies, and, after delivery
of his credentials, as from our King, since his Father's
murder, he was most graciously received by the King of
France and his mother, with whom he had a long audience.
This was in the Palais Cardinal.

After this, being presented to his Majesty and the
Queen Regent, I went to see the house built by the late
great Cardinal de Richelieu. The most observable thing
is the gallery, painted with the portraits of the most illus-
trious persons and signal actions in France, with innu-
merable emblems betwixt every table. In the middle of
the gallery, is a neat chapel, rarely paved in work and
devices of several sorts of marble, besides the altar-piece
and two statues of white marble, one of St. John, the



1649.] JOHN EVELYN. 255

other of the Virgin Mary, by Bernini. The rest of the
apartments are rarely gilded and carved, with some good
modern paintings. In the presence hang three huge
branches of crystal. In the French King's bed-chamber,
is an alcove like another chamber, set as it were in a
chamber like a moveable box, with a rich embroidered
bed. The fabric of the palace is not magnificent, being
but of two stories; but the garden is so spacious as to
contain a noble basin and fountain continually playing,
and there is a mall, with an elbow, or turning, to protract
it. So I left his Majesty on the terrace, busy in seeing a
bull-baiting, and returned home in Prince Edward's coach
with Mr. Paul, the Prince Elector's agent.

19th. Visited Mr. Waller, where meeting Dr. Holden,
an English Sorbonne divine, we fell into some discourse
about religion.

28th December. Going to wait on Mr. Waller, I viewed
St. Stephen's church ; the building, though Gothic, is full
of carving ; within it is beautiful, especially the choir and
winding stairs. The glass is well painted, and the tapestry
hung up this day about the choir, representing the con-
version of Constantine, was exceeding rich.

I went to that excellent engraver, Du Bosse, for his
instruction about some difficulties in perspective which
were delivered in his book.

I concluded this year in health, for which I gave solemn
thanks to Almighty God.*

29th. I christened Sir Hugh Rilie's child with Sir
George Hadcliffe in our chapel, the parents being so poor
that they had provided no gossips, so as several of us
drawing lots it fell on me, the Dean of Peterborough (Dr.
Cosin) officiating : we named it Andrew, being on the eve
of that Apostle's day.

1649-50. 1st January. I began this Jubilee with the
public office in our chapel : dined at my Lady Herbert's,
wife of Sir Edward Herbert, afterwards Lord Keeper.

18th. This night was the Prince of Conde and his
brother carried prisoners to the Bois de Vincennes.

6th February. In the evening, came Signer Alessandro,
one of the Cardinal Mazarine's musicians, and a person of

* This he does not fail to repeat at the end of every year, but it will not
always be necessary to insert it in this work.



256 DIARY OP [PARIS,

great name for his knowledge in that art, to visit my wife,
and sung before divers persons of quality in my chamber.

1st March. I went to see the masquerades, which was
very fantastic ; but nothing so quiet and solemn, as I found
it at Venice.

13th. Saw a triumph in Monsieur del Camp's Academy,
where divers of the French and English noblesse, especially
my Lord of Ossory, and Kichard, sons to the Marquis of
Ormond (afterwards Duke), did their exercises on horse-
back in noble equipage, before a world of spectators and
great persons, men and ladies. It ended in a collation.

25th April. I went out of town to see Madrid, a palace
so called, built by Francis the First. It is observable only
for its open manner of architecture, being much of terraces
and galleries one over another to the very roof, and for the
materials, which are most of earth painted like Porcelain,
or China-ware, whose colours appear very fresh, but is
very fragile. There are whole statues and relievos of this
pottery, chimney-pieces, and columns both within and
without. Under the chapel, is a chimney in the midst of
a room parted from the Salle des Gardes. The house is
fortified with a deep ditch, and has an admirable vista
towards the Bois de Boulogne and river.

30th. I went to see the collection of the famous
sculptor, Steffano de la Bella, returning now into Italy,
and bought some prints : and likewise visited Perelle, the
landscape graver.

3rd May. At the hospital of La Charite, I saw the ope-
ration of cutting for the stone. A child of eight or nine
years old underwent the operation with most extraordinary
patience, and expressing great joy when he saw the stone
was drawn. The use I made of it was, to give Almighty
God hearty thanks that I had not been subject to this
deplorable infirmity.

7th. I went with Sir Richard Browne's lady and my
wife, together with the Earl of Chesterfield, Lord Ossory
and his brother, to Vamber, a place near the city famous
for butter; when, coming homewards, being on foot, a
quarrel arose between Lord Ossory and a man in a garden,
who thrust Lord Ossory from the gate with uncivil lan-
guage ; on which our young gallants struck the fellow on
the pate, and bid him ask pardon, which he did with much



1650.] JOHN EVELYN. 257

submission, and so we parted. But we were not gone far
before we heard a noise behind us, and saw people coming
with guns, swords, staves, and forks, and who followed,
flinging stones ; on which, we turned and were forced to
engage, and with our swords, stones, and the help of our
servants (one of whom had a pistol) made our retreat for near
a quarter of a mile, when we took shelter in a house, where
we were besieged, and at length forced to submit to be
prisoners. Lord Hatton, with some others, were taken
prisoners in the flight, and his lordship was confined under
three locks and as many doors in this rude fellow's master's
house, who pretended to be steward to Monsieur St.
Germain, one of the presidents of the Grand Chambre du
Parlement, 'and a canon of Notre Dame. Several of us
were much hurt. One of our lackeys escaping to Paris,
caused the bailiif of St. Germain to come with his guard
and rescue us. Immediately afterwards, came Monsieur
St. Germain himself, in great wrath on hearing that his
housekeeper was assaulted ; but, when he saw the King's
officers, the gentlemen and noblemen, with his Majesty's
Resident, and understood the occasion, he was ashamed
of the accident, requesting the fellow's pardon, and desir-
ing the ladies to accept their submission and a supper at
his house. It was ten o'clock at night ere we got to Paris,
guarded by Prince Griffith, (a Welch hero going under
that name, and well known in England for his extrava-
gances), together with the scholars of two academies, who
came forth to assist and meet us on horseback, and would
fain have alarmed the town we received the affront from ;
which, with much ado, we prevented.

12th. Complaint being come to the Queen and Court
of France of the affront we had received, the President
was ordered to ask pardon of Sir R. Browne, his Majesty's
Resident, and the fellow to make submission, and be dis-
missed. There came along with him the President de
Thou, son of the great Thuanus [the historian] , and so all
was composed. But I have often heard that gallant
gentleman, my Lord Ossory, affirm solemnly that in all
the conflicts he ever was in at sea or on land, (in the most
desperate of both which he had often been) he believed he
was never in so much danger as when these people rose
against us. He used to call it the bataille de Vambre, and

VOL. T. s



253 DIARY OP [PARIS*

remember it with a great deal of mirth as an adventure,
en cavalier.

24th. We were invited by the Noble Academies to a
running at the ring, where were 'many brave horses,
gallants, and ladies, my Lord Stanhope entertaining us with
a collation.

12th June. Being Trinity-Sunday, the Dean of Peter-
borough preached ; after which, there was an ordination of
two divines, Durell and Brevent (the one was afterwards
Dean of Windsor, the other of Durham, both very learned
persons). The Bishop of Galloway officiated with great
gravity, after a pious and learned exhortation declaring
the weight and dignity of their function, especially now in
a time of the poor Church of England's affliction. He
magnified the sublimity of the calling, from the object,
viz., the salvation of men's souls, and the glory of God ;
producing many human instances of the transitoriness and
vanity of all other dignities ; that of all the triumphs the
Roman conquerors made, none was comparable to that of
our Blessed Saviour's, when he led captivity captive, and
gave gifts to men, namely, that of the Holy Spirit, by
which his faithful and painful ministers triumphed over
Satan as oft as they reduced a sinner from the error of
his ways. He then proceeded to the ordination. They
were presented by the Dean in their surplices before the
altar, the Bishop sitting in a chair at one side; and so
were made both Deacons and Priests at the same time, in
regard to the necessity of the times, there being so few
Bishops left in England, and consequently danger of a
failure of both functions. Lastly, they proceeded to the
Communion. This was all performed in Sir Richard
Browne's chapel, at Paris.

13th. I sate to the famous sculptor, Nanteuil, who was
afterwards made a knight by the French King for his art.
He engraved my picture in copper. At a future time,
he presented me with my own picture,* done all with his
pen ; an extraordinary curiosity.

21st. I went to see the Samaritan, or Pump, at the end
of the Pont Neuf, which, though to appearance promising

* Also those of his Lady and Sir R. Browne, most beautifully executed,
which are at Wotton.



1650.] JOHN EVELYN. 059

no great matter, is, besides the machine, furnished with
innumerable rarities both of art and nature; especially
the costly grotto, where are the fairest corals, growing out
of the very rock, that I have seen ; also great pieces of
crystals, amethysts, gold in the mine, and other metals
and marcasites, with two great conchas, which the owner
told us cost him 200 crowns at Amsterdam. He showed us
many landscapes and prospects, very rarely painted in
miniature, some with the pen and crayon ; divers anti-
quities and relievos of Rome ; above all, that of the inside
of the Amphitheatre of Titus, incomparably drawn by
Monsieur St. Clere * himself; two boys and three skele-
tons, moulded by Fiamingo ; a book of statues, with the
pen made for Henry IV., rarely executed, and by which
one may discover many errors in the taille-douce of Perrier,
who has added divers conceits of his own that are not in
the originals. He has likewise an infinite collection of
taille-douces, richly bound in morocco.

He led us into a stately chamber furnished to have
entertained a prince, with pictures of the greatest masters,
especially a Venus of Perino del Vaga ; the Putti carved
in the chimney-piece by the Fleming; the vases of por-
celain, and many designed by Raphael ; some paintings of
Poussin, and Fioravanti ; antiques in brass ; the looking-
glass and stands rarely carved. In a word, all was great,,
choice and magnificent, and not to be passed by as I had
often done, without the least suspicion that there were
such rare things to be seen in that place. At a future
visit, he showed a new grotto and a bathing place, hewn
through the battlements of the arches of Pont Neuf, into
a wide vault at the intercolumniation, so that the coaches
and horses thundered over our heads.

27th. I made my will, and, taking leave of my wife and
other friends, took horse for England, paying the messager
eight pistoles for me and my servant to Calais, setting out:
with seventeen in company well-armed, some Portuguese,
Swiss, and French, whereof six were captains and officers.
We came the first night to Beaumont ; next day, to Beau-
vais, and lay at Pois, and the next, without dining, reached
Abbeville ; next, dined at Montreuil, and proceeding met

This was the name of the owner.



260 DIARY OF [LONDON,

a company on foot (being now within the inroads of the
parties which dangerously infest this day's journey from
St. Omers and the frontiers) which we drew very near
to, ready and resolute to charge through, and accordingly
were ordered and led by a captain of our train ; but, as
we were on the speed, they called out, and proved to be
Scotchmen, newly raised and landed, and few among them
armed. This night, we were well treated at Boulogne.
The next day, we marched in good order, the passage
being now exceeding dangerous, and got to Calais, by a
little after two. The sun so scorched my face, that it
made the skin peel off.

I dined with Mr. Booth, his Majesty's agent; and, about
three in the afternoon, embarked in the packet-boat ;
hearing there was a pirate then also setting sail, we had
security from molestation, and so with a fair S. W. wind
in seven hours we landed at Dover. The busy watchman
would have us to the Mayor to be searched, but the gen-
tleman being in bed, we were dismissed.

Next day, being Sunday, they would not permit us to
ride post, so that afternoon our trunks were visited.

The next morning by four, we set out for Canterbury,
where I met with my Lady Catherine Scott, whom that
very day twelve months before I met at sea going for
France ; she had been visiting Sir Thomas Peyton, not far
off, and would needs carry me in her coach to Gravesend.
We dined at Sittingbourne, came late to Gravesend, and
so to Deptford, taking leave of my lady about four the
next morning.

5th July. I supped in the city with my Lady Cathe-
rine Scott, at one Mr. Dubois', where was a gentlewoman
called Everard, who was a very great chymist.

Sunday 7th. In the afternoon, having a mind to see
what was doing among the Rebels, then in full possession
at Whitehall, I went thither and found one at exercise in
the chapel, after their way ; thence, to St. James's, where
another was preaching in the court abroad.

17th. I went to London to obtain a pass,* intending
but a short stay in England.

* As follows : " These are to will and require you to permit and suffer the
bearer thereof, John Evelyn, Esq., to transport himself, two servants, and
other necessaries, unto any port of France, without any your lets or moles-



1G50.] JOHN EVELYN. 61

25th. I went by Epsom to Wotton, saluting Sir Ro-
bert Cook and my sister Glanville ; the country was now
much molested by soldiers, who took away gentlemen's
horses for the service of the State, as then called.

4th August. I heard a sermon at the Rolls ; and, in
the afternoon, wandered to divers churches, the pulpits full
of novices and novelties.

6th. To Mr. Walker's, a good painter, who showed me
an excellent copy of Titian.

12th. Set out for Paris, taking post at Gravesend, and
so that night to Canterbury, where being surprised by the
soldiers, and having only an antiquated pass, with some
fortunate dexterity I got clear of them, though not with-
out extraordinary hazard, having before counterfeited one
with success, it being so difficult to procure one of the
Rebels without entering into oaths, which I never would
do. At Dover, money to the searchers and officers was as
authentic as the hand and seal of Bradshawe, himself, where
I had not so much as my trunk opened.

13th. At six in the evening, set sail for Calais; the
wind not favourable, I was very sea-sick, coming to an
anchor about one o'clock ; about five in the morning, we
had a long boat to carry us to land, though at a good dis-
tance ; this we willingly entered, because two vessels were
chasing us ; but, being now almost at the harbour's mouth,
through inadvertency there brake in upon us two such
heavy seas, as had almost sunk the boat, I being near the
middle up in water. Our steersman, it seems, apprehen-
sive of the danger, was preparing to leap into the sea and
trust to swimming, but seeing the vessel emerge, he put
her into the pier, and so, God be thanked ! we got to
Calais, though wet.

tations, of which you are not to fail, and for which this shall be your sufficient
warrant. Given at the Council of State at Whitehall this 25th of June, 1650.
" Signed in the Name and by Order of the Council of State,
appointed by authority of Parliament,

" Jo. BRADSHAWE, President

' " To all Customers, Comptrollers, and Searchers, and

all other officers of the Ports, or Customs."

Subjoined to the signature, Evelyn has added in his own writing, " The
hand of that villain who sentenced our Charles I. of B[lessed] M[emory]."
Endorsed by Evelyn, " The Pass from the Council of State, 1 650."



DIARY OF [PARIS,

Here I waited for company, the passage towards Paris
being still infested with volunteers from the Spanish fron-
tiers.

16th. The Regiment of Picardy, consisting of about
1400 horse and foot (amongst them was a captain whom I
knew), being come to town, I took horses for myself and
servant, and marched under their protection to Boulogne.
It was a miserable spectacle to see how these tattered sol-
diers pillaged the poor people of their sheep, poultry, corn,
cattle, and whatever came in their way ; but they had such
ill pay, that they were ready themselves to starve.

As we passed St. Denis, the people were in uproar, the
guards doubled, and everybody running with their move-
ables to Paris, on an alarm that the enemy was within
five leagues of them ; so miserably exposed was even this
part of France at this time.

The 30th, I got to Paris, after an absence of two months
only.

1st September. My Lady Herbert invited me to dinner;
Paris, and indeed all France, being full of loyal fugitives.

Came Mr. Waller to see me, about a child of his which
the Popish midwife had baptized.

October 15th. Sir Thomas Osborne (afterwards Lord
Treasurer) and Lord Stanhope shot for a wager of five
louis, to be spent on a treat ; they shot so exact, that it was
a drawn match.

November 1st. Took leave of my Lord Stanhope, going
on his journey towards Italy ; also visited my Lord Hatton,
Comptroller of his Majesty's Household, the Countess of
Morton, Governess to the Lady Henrietta, and Mrs. Gard-
ner, one of the Queen's Maids of Honour.

6th. Sir Thomas Osborne supping with us, his groom
was set upon in the street before our house, and received
two wounds, but gave the assassin nine, who was carried
off" to the Charite Hospital. Sir Thomas went for England
on the 8th, and carried divers letters for me to my
friends.

16th. I went to Monsieur Visse's, the French King's
Secretary, to a concert of French music and voices, con-
sisting of twenty -four, two theorbos, and but one bass viol,
being a rehearsal of what was to be sung at Tespers at
St. Cecilia's, on her feast, she being patroness of Musicians.



1651.] JOHN EVELYN. 263

News arrived of the death of the Princess of Orange of
the small pox.

14th December. I went to visit Mr. RatclifFe, in whose
lodging was an impostor that had like to have imposed
upon us a pretended secret of multiplying gold ; it is cer-
tain he had lived some time in Paris in extraordinary
splendour, but I found him to be an egregious cheat.

22nd. Came the learned Dr. Boet to visit me.

31st. I gave God thanks for his mercy and protection
the past year, and made up my accounts, which came this
year to 7,015 livres, near 600 sterling.

1650-1. 1st January. I wrote to my brother at Wotton,
about his garden and fountains. After evening prayer,
Mr. Wainsford called on me : he had long been Consul at
Aleppo, and told me many strange things of those coun-
tries, the Arabs especially.

27th. Ihadletters of the death of Mrs. Newton, my grand-
mother-in-law ; she had a most tender care of me during
my childhood, and was a woman of extraordinary charity
and piety.

29th. Dr. Duncan preached on 8 Matt. v. 34, showing
the mischief of covetousness. My Lord Marquis of Or-
mond and Inchiquin, come newly out of Ireland, were this
day at chapel.

9th February. Cardinal Mazarine was proscribed by
Arret du Parlement, and great commotions began in Paris.

23rd. I went to see the Bonnes Hommes, a convent
that has a fair cloister painted with the lives of Hermits ;
a glorious altar now erecting in the chapel; the garden
on the rock with divers descents, with a fine vineyard and
a delicate prospect toward the city.

24th. I went to see a dromedary, a very monstrous
beast, much like the camel, but larger. There was also
dancing on the rope ; but, above all, surprising to those
who were ignorant of the address, was the water-spouter,*
who, drinking only fountain-water, rendered out of his
mouth in several glasses all sorts of wine and sweet waters.
For a piece of money, he discovered the secret to me. I
"waited on Friar Nicholas at the convent at Chaillot, who,
being an excellent chymist, showed me his laboratory, and

*^Floriand Marchand. He afterwards exhibited himself in England. Pre-
fixed to an Account of his exploits, is a woodcut of him.



DIARY OP [PARIS,

rare collection of spagyrical remedies. He was both phy-
sician and apothecary of the convent, and, instead of the
names of his drugs, he painted his boxes and pots with
the figure of the drug, or simple, contained in them. He
showed me as a rarity some $ of antimony:* he had
cured Monsieur Senatan of a desperate sickness, for which
there was building a monumental altar that was to cost
1500.

llth March. I went to the Chatelet, or prison, where
a malefactor was to have the question, or torture, given to
him, he refusing to confess the robbery with which he
was charged, which was thus : they first bound his wrist
with a strong rope, or small cable, and one end of it to an
iron ring made fast to the wall, about four feet from the
floor, and then his feet with another cable, fastened about
five feet farther than his utmost length to another ring on
the floor of the room. Thus suspended, and yet lying but
aslant, they slid a horse of wood under the rope which
bound his feet which so exceedingly stiffened it, as severed
the fellow's joints in miserable sort, drawing him out at
length in an extraordinary manner, he having only a pair
of linen drawers on his naked body. Then, they questioned
him of a robbery (the Lieutenant being present, and a
clerk that wrote), which not confessing, they put a higher
horse under the rope, to increase the torture and exten-
sion. In this agony, confessing nothing, the executioner
with a horn (just such as they drench horses with) stuck
the end of it into his mouth, and poured the quantity of
two buckets of water down his throat and over him, which
so prodigiously swelled him, as would have pitied and
affrighted any one to see it ; for all this, he denied all that
was charged to him. They then let him down, and carried
him before a warm fire to bring him to himself, being now



Online LibraryJohn EvelynDiary and correspondence, To which is subjoined the private correspondence between King Charles I. and Sir Edward Nicholas, and between Sir Edward Hyde, afterwards earl of Clarendon, and Sir Richard Browne (Volume 1) → online text (page 27 of 46)