used in. dress, not suitable to the complexion, it should
be associated with contrasting colors, as they have the
power to neutralize its objectionable influence.
Colors of similar power which contrast with each.
other, mutually intensify each other's brilliancy, as blue
and orange, scarlet and green; but dark and light colors
associated do not intensify each other to the same de-
gree, the dark appearing darker and the light appearing
"346 HARMONY OF COLORS IN DRESS.
lighter, as dark blue and straw color. Colors which
harmonize with each other by analogy, reduce each
other's brilliancy to a greater or less degree, as white
and yellow, blue and purple, black and brown.
The various shades of purple and lilac, dark blues
and dark greens, lose much of their brilliancy by gas-
light, while orange, scarlet, crimson, the light browns
and light greens, gain brilliancy by a strong artificial
Below the reader will find a list of colors that har-
monize, forming most agreeable combinations, in which
are included all the latest and most fashionable shades
Black and pink.
Black and lilac.
Black and scarlet.
Black and maize.
Black and slate color.
Black and orange, a rich harmony.
Black and white, a perfect harmony.
Bladk and brown, a dull harmony.
Black and drab or buff.
Blaqk, white or yellow and crimson.
Black, orange, blue and scarlet.
Black and chocolate brown.
Black and shaded cardinal.
Black and cardinal.
Black, yellow, bronze and light blue.
Black, cardinal, blue and old gold.
Blue and brown.
Blue and black.
Blue and gold, a rich harmony.
Blue and orange, a perfect harmony.
Blue and chestnut (or chocolate).
Blue and maize.
HABMONY OF COLOKS IX DlIESS. 347
Blue and straw color.
Blue and white.
Blue and fawn color, weak harmony.
Blue and stone color.
Blue and drab.
Blue and lilac, weak harmony.
Blue and crimson, imperfectly.
Blue and pink, poor harmony.
Blue and salmon color.
Blue, scarlet and purple (or lilac).
Blue, orange and black.
Blue, orange and green.
Blue, brown, crimson and gold (or yellow).
Blue, orange, black and white.
Blue, pink and bronze green.
Blue, cardinal and old gold.
Blue, yellow, chocolate-brown and gold.
Blue, mulberry and yellow.
Bronze and old gold.
Bronze, pink and light blue.
Bronze, black, blue, pink and gold.
Bronze, cardinal and peacock blue.
Brown, blue, green, cardinal and yellow.
Brown, yellow, cardinal and peacock blue.
Crimson and gold, rich harmony.
Oimson and orange, rich harmony.
Crimson and brown, dull harmony.
Crimson and black, dull harmony.
Crimson and drab.
Crimson and maize.
Crimson and purple.
Cardinal and old gold.
Cardinal, brown and black.
Cardinal and navy blue.
Chocolate, blue, pink and gold.
Claret and old gold.
Dark green, white and cardinal.
Ecrue, bronze and peacock.
Ecrue and light blue.
348 HARMONY OF COLORS IN DRESS.
Garnet, bronze and pink.
Gensd'arme and cardinal.
Gensd'arme and bronze.
Gensd'arme and myrtle.
Gensd'ai'me and old gold.
Gensd'arme, yellow and cardinal.
Gensd'arme, pink, cardinal and lavender
Green and gold, or gold color.
Green and scarlet.
Green and orange.
Green and yellow.
Green, crimson, blue and gold s or yellow.
Green, blue and scarlet.
Green, gold and mulberry
Green and cardinal.
Lilac and white, poor.
Lilac and gray, poor.
Lilac and maize.
Lilac and cherry.
Lilac and gold, or gold color.
Lilac and scarlet.
Lilac and crimson.
Lilac, scarlet and white or black.
Lilac, gold color and crimson.
Lilac, yellow or gold, scarlet and white.
Light pink and garnet.
Light drab, pine, yellow and white.
Myrtle and old gold.
Myrtle and bronze.
Myrtle, red, blue and yellow.
Myrtle, mulberry, cardinal, gold and light green
Mulberry and old gold.
Mulberry and gold.
Mulberry and bronze.
Mulberry, bronze and gold,
Mulberry and pearl.
Mode, pearl and mulberry.
Maroon, yellow, silvery gray and light greeiu
Navy blue, light blue and gold.
HARMONY OF COLORS IN DRESS. 349
blue, gensd'anne and pearl.
Navy blue, maize, cardinal and yellow.
Orange and bronze, agreeable.
Orange and chestnut.
Orange, lilac and crimson.
Orange, red and green.
Orange, purple and scarlet.
Orange, blue, scarlet and purple.
Orange, blue, scarlet and claret.
Orange, blue, scarlet, white and green.
Orange, blue and crimson.
Pearl, light blue and peacock blue.
Peacock blue and light gold.
Peacock blue and old gold.
Peacock blue and cardinal.
Peacock blue, pearl, gold and cardinal.
Purple and maize.
Purple and blue.
Purple and gold, or gold color, rich.
Purple and orange, rich.
Purple and black, heavy.
Purple and white, cold.
Purple, scarlet and gold color.
Purple, scarlet and white.
Purple, scarlet, blue and orange.
Purple, scarlet, blue, yellow and black.
Red and white, or gray.
Red and gold, or gold color.
Red, orange and green.
Red, yellow or gold color and black.
Red, gold color, black and white.
Seal brown, gold and cardinal
Sapphire and bronze.
Sapphire and old gold.
Sapphire and cardinal.
Sapphire and light blue.
Sapphire and light pink.
Sapphire and corn.
Sapphire and garnet.
350 HARMONY OF COLORS IN DRESS.
Sapphire and mulberry.
Shaded blue and black.
Scarlet and blue.
Scarlet and slate color.
Scarlet and orange.
Scarlet, blue and white.
Scarlet, blue and yellow.
Scarlet, black and white.
Scarlet, blue, black and yellow.
Shaded blue, shaded garnet and shaded gold.
Shaded blue and black.
White and cherry.
White and crimson.
White and brown.
White and pink.
White and scarlet.
White and gold color, poor.
Yellow and black.
Yellow and brown.
Yellow, and red.
Yellow and chestnut or chocolate.
Yellow and white, poor.
Yellow and purple, agreeable.
Yellow and violet.
Yellow and lilac, weak.
Yellow and blue, cold.
Yellow and crimson.
Yellow, purple and crimson.
Yellow, purple, scarlet and blue.
Yellow, cardinal and peacock blue.
Yellow, pink, maroon and light blue.
appear at all times neat, clean and
tidy, is demanded of every well-bred
person. The dress may be plain r
rich or extravagant, but there must
be a neatness and cleanliness of the
person. Whether a lady is pos-
sessed of few or many personal at-
tractions, it is her duty at all times to<
appear tidy and clean, and to make her-
self as comely and attractive as circum-
stances and surroundings will permit.
The same may be said of a gentleman. If a.
gentleman calls upon a lady, his duty and his-
respect for her demand that he shall appear not
only in good clothes, but with well combed hair, exqui-
sitely clean hands, well trimmed beard or cleanly shaven
face, while the lady will not show herself in an untidy
dress, or disheveled hair. They should appear at their
Upon the minor details of the toilet depend, in a
great degree, the health, not to say the beauty, of the
individual. In fact the highest state of health is equiv
alent to the highest degree of beauty of which the
individual is capable,
Perfumes, if used at all, should be used in the strict-
est moderation, and be of the most recherche kind.
Musk and patchouli should always be avoided, as, to
many people of sensitive temperament, their odor is
exceedingly disagreeable. Cologne water of the best
quality is never offensive.
Cleanliness is the outward sign of inward purity.
Cleanliness of the person is health, and health is beauty.
The bath is consequently a very important means of
preserving the health and enhancing the beauty. It is
not to be supposed that we bathe simply to become
clean, but because we wish to remain clean. Cold
water refreshes and invigorates, but does not cleanse,
and persons who daily use a sponge bath in the morn-
ing, should frequently use a warm one, of from ninety-
six to one hundred degrees Fahrenheit for cleansing pur-
poses. When a plunge bath is taken, the safest tem-
perature is from eighty to ninety degrees, which
answers the purposes of both cleansing and refresh-
ing. Soap should be plentifully used, and the flesh-
brush applied vigorously, drying with a coarse Turk-
ish towel. Nothing improves the complexion like the
daily use of the fleshbrush, with early rising and exer-
.cise in the open air.
THE TOILET. 353
In many houses, in large cities, there is a separate
"bath-room, with hot and cold water, but in smaller
places and country houses this convenience is not to be
found. A substitute for the bath-room is a large piece
of oil-cloth, which can be laid upon the floor of an
ordinary dressing-room. Upon this may be placed the
bath tub or basin, or a person may use it to stand upon
while taking a sponge bath. The various kinds of
baths, both hot and cold, are the shower bath, the
douche, the hip bath and the sponge bath.
The shower bath can only be endured by the most
vigorous constitutions, and therefore cannot be recom-
mended for indiscriminate use.
A douche or hip bath may be taken every morning,
with the temperature of the water suited to the endur-
ance of the individual. In summer a sponge bath may
be taken upon retiring. Once a week a warm bath, at
from ninety to one hundred degrees, may be taken,
with plenty of soap, in order to thoroughly cleanse the
pores of the skin. Rough towels should be vigorously
used after these baths, not only to remove the impuri-
ties of the skin but for the beneficial friction which
will send a glow over the whole body. The hair glove
or flesh brush may be used to advantage in the bath
before the towel is applied.
The teeth should be carefully brushed with a hard
brush after each meal, and also on retiring at night.
Use the brush so that not only the outside of the teeth
354: THE TOILETo
becomes white, but the inside also. After the brush is
used plunge it two or three times into a glass of water,
then rub it quite dry on a towel.
Use tooth- washes or powders very sparingly. Castile
soap used once a day, with frequent brushings with pure
water and a brush, cannot fail to keep the teeth clean
and white, unless they are disfigured and destroyed by
other bad habits, such as the use of tobacco, or too hot
or too cold drinks.
On the slightest appearance of decay or tendency to
accumulate tartar, go at once to the dentist. If a dark
spot appearing under the enamel is neglected, it will eat
in until the tooth is eventually destroyed. A dentist
seeing the tooth in its first stage, will remove the de-
cayed part and plug the cavity in a proper manner.
TARTAR ON THE TEETH.
Tartar is not so easily dealt with, but it requires
equally early attention. It results from an impaired
state of the general health, and assumes the form of a
yellowish concretion on the teeth and gums. At first it
is possible to keep it down by a repeated and vigorous
use of the tooth brush; but if a firm, solid mass accum-
ulates, it is necessary to have it chipped off by a dentist.
Unfortunately, too, by that time it will probably have
begun to loosen and destroy the teeth on which it fixes,
and is pretty certain to have produced one obnoxious
effect that of tainting the breath. Washing the teeth
THE TOILET. 355
with vinegar when the brush is used has been recom-
mended as a means of removing tartar.
Tenderness of the gums, to which some persons are
subject, may sometimes be met by the use of salt and
water, but it is well to rinse the mouth frequently with
water with a few drops of tincture of myrrh in it.
Foul breath, unless caused by neglected teeth, indi-
cates a deranged state of the system. When it is occa-
sioned by the teeth or other local case, use a gargle con-
sisting of a spoonful of solution of chloride of lime in
half a tumbler of water. Gentlemen smoking, and thus
tainting the breath, may be glad to know that the com-
mon parsley has a peculiar effect in removing the odor
Beauty and health of the skin can only be obtained
by perfect cleanliness of the entire person, an avoidance
of all cosmetics, added to proper diet, correct habits and
early habits of rising and exercise. The skin must be
thoroughly washed, occasionally with warm water and
soap, to remove the oily exudations on its surface. If
any unpleasant sensations are experienced after the use
of soap, they may be immediately removed by rinsing
the surface with water to which a little lemon juice or
vinegar has been added.
366 THE TOILET.
PRESERVING A YOUTHFUL COMPLEXION.
The following rules may be given for the preservation
of a youthful complexion- Rise early and go to bed
early. Take plenty of exercise. Use plenty of cold
water and good soap frequently. Be moderate in eating
and drinking. Do not lace. Avoid as much as possible
the vitiated atmosphere of crowded assemblies. Shun
cosmetics and washes for the skin. The latter dry the
skin, and only defeat the end they are supposed to have
Moles are frequently a great disfigurement to the face,
but they should not be tampered with in any way. The
only safe and certain mode of getting rid of moles is by
a surgical operation,
Freckles are of two kinds. Those occasioned by ex-
posure to the sunshine, and consequently evanescent,
are denominated " summer freckles ;" those which are
constitutional and permanent are called " cold freckles."
With regard to the latter, it is impossible to give any
advice which will be of value. They result from causes
not to be affected by mere external applications. Sum-
mer freckles are not so difficult to deal with, and with a
little care the skin may be kept free from this cause of
disfigurement. Some skins are so delicate that they
become freckled on the slightest exposure to open air in
summer. The cause assigned for this is that the iron
in the blood, forming a junction with the oxygen, leaves
a rusty mark where the junction takes place. We give
in their appropriate places some recipes for removing
these latter freckles from the face.
There are various other discolorations of the skin,
proceeding frequently from derangement of the system.
The cause should always be discovered before attempt-
ing a remedy; otherwise you may aggravate the com
plaint rather than cure it.
Beautiful eyes are the gift of Nature, and can owe
little to the toilet. As in the eye consists much of the
expression of the face, therefore it should be borne in
mind that those who would have their eyes bear a pleas-
ing expression must cultivate pleasing traits of charac-
ter and beautify the soul, and then this beautiful soul
will look through its natural windows.
Never tamper with the eyes. There is danger of
destroying them. All daubing or dyeing of the lids is
foolish and vulgar.
Short-sightedness is not always a natural defect, it
may be acquired by bad habits in youth. A short-
sighted person should supply himself with glasses ex-
actly adapted to his wants; but it is well not to use
these glasses too constantly, as, even when they per-
358 THE TOILET
fectly fit the eye, they really tend to shorten the sight.
Unless one is very short-sighted, it is best to keep the
glasses for occasional use, and trust ordinarily to the
unaided eye. Parents and teachers should watch their
children and see that they do not acquire the habit of
holding their books too close to their eyes, and thus
injure their sight.
SQUINT-EYES AND CROSS-EYES.
Parents should also be careful that their children do
not become squint or cross-eyed through any careless-
ness. A child's hair hanging down loosely over its eyes,
or a bonnet projecting too far over them, or a loose rib-
bon or tape fluttering over the forehead, is sometimes
sufficient to direct the sight irregularly until it becomes
THB EYELASHES AND EYEBROWS.
A beautiful eyelash is an important adjunct to the
eye. The lashes may be lengthened by trimming them
occasionally in childhood. Care should be taken that
this trimming is done neatly and evenly, and especially
that the points of the scissors do not penetrate the eye.
The eyebrows may be brushed carefully in the direction
in which they should lie. In general, it is in exceeding
bad taste to dye either lashes or brows, for it usually
brings them into disharmony with the hair and features.
There are cases, however, when the beauty of an other-
wise fine countenance is utterly ruined by white lashes
and brows. In such cases one can hardly be blamed if
THE TOILET. 359
India ink is resorted to to give them the desired color.
Never shave the brows. It adds to their beauty in no
way, and may result in an irregular growth of new hair.
TAKE CARE OF THE EYES.
The utmost care should be taken of the eyes. They
should never be strained in an imperfect light, whether
that of shrouded daylight, twilight or flickering lamp
or candle-light. Many persons have an idea that an
habitually dark room is best for the eyes. On the con-
trary, it weakens them and renders them permanently
unable to bear the light of the sun. Our eyes were
naturally designed to endure the broad light of day,
and the nearer we approach to this in our houses, the
stronger will be our eyes and the longer will we retain
Some persons have the eyebrows meeting over the
nose. This is usually considered a disfigurement, but
there is no remedy for it. It may be a consolation for
such people to know that the ancients admired this style
of eyebrows, and that Michael Angelo possessed it. It
is useless to pluck out the uniting hairs; and if a depil-
atory is applied, a mark like that of a scar left from a
burn remains, and is more disfiguring than the hair.
If the lids of the eyes become inflamed and scaly, do
not seek to remove the scales roughly, for they will
360 THE TOILET.
bring the lashes with them. Apply at, night a little cold
cream to the edges of the closed eyelids, and wash them
in the morning with lukewarm milk and water. It is
well to have on the toilet-table a remedy for inflamed
eyes. Spermaceti ointment is simple and well adapted
to this purpose. Apply at night, and wash off with
rose-water in the morning. There is a simple lotion
made by dissolving a very small piece of alum and a
piece of lump-sugar of the same size in a quart of water;
put the ingredients into the water cold and let them
simmer. Bathe the eyes frequently with ik
A sty in the eye is irritating and disfiguring. Bathe
with warm water; at night apply a bread-and-milk poul-
tice. When a white head forms, prick it with a fine
needle. Should the inflammation be obstinate, a little
citrine ointment may be applied, care being taken that
it does not get into the eye.
There is nothing that so adds to the charm of an indi-
vidual, especially a lady, as a good head of hair. The
ikin of the head requires even more tenderness and
cleanliness than any other portion of the body, and is
capable of being irritated by disease. The hair should
be brushed carefully. The brush should be of moderate
hardness, not too hard. The hair should be separated,
in order that the head itself may be well brushed, as by
doing so the scurf is removed, and that is most essential,
THE TOILET. 861
as it is not only unpleasant and unsightly, but if suffered
to remain it becomes saturated with perspiration, and
tends to weaken the roots of the hair, so that it is easily
pulled out. In brushing or combing, begin at the ex-
treme points, and in combing, hold the portion of hair
just above that through which the comb is passing,
firmly between the first and second fingers, so that if it
is entangled it may drag from that point, and not from
the roots. The finest head of hair may be spoiled by
the practice of plunging the comb into it high up and
dragging it in a reckless manner; Short, loose, broken
hairs are thus created, and become very troublesome.
THE USE OF HAIR OILS.
Do not plaster the hair with oil or pomatum. A
white, concrete oil pertains naturally to the covering of
the human head, but some persons have it in more
abundance than others. Those whose hair is glossy and
shining need nothing to render it so; but when the hai'
is harsh, poor and dry, artificial lubrication is necessary.
Persons who perspire freely, or who accumulate scurf
rapidly, require it also. Nothing is simpler or better in
the way of oil than pure, unscented salad oil, and in the
way of a pomatum, bear's grease is as pleasant as any-
thing. Apply either with the hands, or keep a soft
brush for the purpose, but take care not to use the oil
too freely. An overoiled head of hair is vulgar and
offensive. So are scents of any kind in the oil applied
to the hair. It is well also to keep a piece of flannel
with which to rub the hair at night after brushing it, in
362 THE TOILET.
order to remove the oil before laying the head upon the
Vinegar and water form a good wash for the roots
of the hair. Ammonia diluted in water is still better.
The hair-brush should be frequently washed in diluted
For removing scurf, glycerine, diluted with a little
rose-water, will be found of service. Any preparation
of rosemary forms an agreeable and highly cleansing
wash. The yolk of an egg beaten up in warm water is
an excellent application to the scalp. Many heads of
hair require nothing more in the way of wash than
soap and water. Beware of letting the hair grow too
long, as the points are apt to weaken and split. It is
well to have the ends clipped off once a month.
Young girls should wear their hair cut short until
they are grown up, if they would have it then in its
DYEING THE HAIR.
A serious objection to dyeing the hair is that it is
almost impossible to give the hair a tint which harmon-
izes with the complexion. If the hair begins to change
early, and the color goes in patches, procure from the
druggist's a preparation of the husk of the walnut water
of eau crayon. This will, by daily application, darken
the tint of the hair without actually dyeing it. When
the change of color has gone on to any great extent, it
is better to abandon the application and put up with the
change, which, in nine cases out of ten, will be in ac-
cordance with the change of the face. Indeed, there is
THE TOILET. 363*
nothing more beautiful than soft, white hair worn in
bands or clustering curls about the face. The walnut
water may be used for toning down too red hair.
Gentlemen are more liable to baldness than ladies,
owing, no doubt, to the use of the close hat, which con-
fines and overheats the head. If the hair is found to be
falling out, the first thing to do is to look to the hat and
see that it is light and thoroughly ventilated. There is
no greater enemy to the hair than the silk dress-hat. It
is best to lay this hat aside altogether and adopt a light
felt or straw in its place.
Long, flowing hair on a man is not in good taste, and
will indicate him to the observer as a person of unbal-
anced mind and unpleasantly erratic character a man,
in brief, who seeks to impress others with the fact that
he is eccentric, something which a really eccentric person
Those who shave should be careful to do so every
morning. Nothing looks worse than a shabby beard.
Some persons whose beards are strong should shave
twice a day, especially if they are going to a party in
The style of the growth of the beard should be gov-
erned by the character of the face. But whatever the
style be, the great point is to keep it well brushed and
trimmed, and to avoid any appearance of wildness or
inattention. The full, flowing beard of course requires
364 THE TOILBT.
more looking after in the way of cleanliness, than any
other. It should be thoroughly washed and brushed at
least twice a day, as dust is sure to accumulate in it,
and it is very easy to suffer it to become objectionable
to one's self as well as to others. If it is naturally
glossy, it is better to avoid the use of oil or pomatum.
The moustache should be worn neatly and not over-
large. There is nothing that so adds to native manli-
ness as the full beard if carefully and neatly kept.
The beautiful hand is long and slender, with tapering
fingers and pink, filbert-shaped nails. The hand to be
in proper proportion to the rest of the body, should be