CHAPTER XVIII.
FROM MOQUI TO THE CX>LORADO.
Two hundred miles of desert. — Aboriginal mail service. — A new guide. — His net"
90098. — Good-bye. Chino! — Journey to the new Navajo camp. — "Damn Espafiol, shteal
mooch." — On the sandstone tnestL — A pleasant party of four. — " Todos muerioSf pero mas
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Apaches /** — Another sandstone waste. — First view of the river, 5,000 feet below us. —
Getting down the cliff. — Water and salts. — At the river at last. — No boats. — Perilous
passage. — The white woman : " My God, stranger, did you risk your life to swim that
river? " — The Mormon convert^s story. — Three days at the ferry. — ^Parting from my Na-
vajo friends. 287-300
CHAPTER XIX.
A STARTLING INTERVIEW.
I meet with a surprise. — " Major Doyle " proves to be John D. Lee. — And tells me
the story of his crime. — He describes the events leading to the Mountain Meadow
Massacre. — Character of the murdered emigrants. — They are charged with being ene-
mies of tlie Mormon people. — The latter incensed. — And determined on revenge. — Did
they poison the spring? — Or murder friendly Indians? — Outrage on Mrs. Evans. — The
Mormon Council. — Death of the emigrants, determined upon. — The closing tragedy. —
Lee's excuses and subterfuges. — His further history. — A story horrible enough for the
most inveterate sensationalist. — I bid the Lees good-bye. — And with no regrets. — Grand
caflon of the Colorado. — Ride to Jacob's Pool. — Thence to Spring-in-Rock. — Lonely
camping out. — My solitary journey to Kanab. — The Pi-Ede band of savages. — " IbA,
affuoy water 1" — Rest at Kanab. — Jacob Hamlin.— The Powell party. — On the desert
again. — Pipe Springs. — Our bishop landlord. — Another ride over rock and sand. —
Gould's Ranche. — Virgin City. — Toquerville. — " Mormon Dixie." — At Isaac Haight's. —
Kanarra. — Another misfortune. — Itide to Parowan. — Little Salt Lake. — Arrive at Beaver.
—Staging thence to Salt Lake City 301-316
CHAPTER XX.
THE FAIR APOSTATE.
English homes. — Radical and Conservative ; Chartist and Monarchist. — Coming of
the Mormon missionary. — Simple lives changed. — Voyage to America. — The hand-cart
emigration. — Frightful sufferings on the plains. — Death on all sides.— Starved, frozen,
torn by the wolves. — The Old Radical finds the Brotherhood of Man. — A young hero. —
Willie Manson concludes to go West. — Journeys thro' Illinois and Iowa. — Meets a queer
party.— The year 1857.— His sufferings. — At Camp Floyd.— Goes to the city. — Sickness
and fever. — A familiar face by his pillow 317-331
CHAPTER XXI.
THE FAIR APOSTATE — CONTINUED.
Hot times in "Zion." — "The Reformation." — Arrival of the hand-cart emigrants. —
An epidemic madness. — Horrible reign of lust and fanaticism. — United States officials
driven out. — Mormon war begun. — Skill and daring of Mormon guerrillas. — But the
Gentile army enters the Valley. — 30,000 Mormons move south. — But return and submit
peaceably. — Willie Manson's new friends. — More apostates. — John Banks and Thomas
James. — Little Marian becomes Miss Marian. — And Manson does not understand the
change. — In his perplexity he hears doctrine. — And reproof. — But hardens his heart —
A new prophet. — Joseph Morris. — Morrisite Camp on the Weber.— Attacked and broken
up by the Brighamites. — Murder of the women. — Barbarous killing of Morris and
Banks. — Flight of Thomas James. — Exhausted, he lies down to die. — Beatty and Man-
iion off for Montana. — Relieve James.— War with the Bannocks. — Desperate encounters.
— Four years amid the gold fields. — Manson becomes a man/ — The friends hear that all
is peace in Utah. — And together return to " Zion." ..... 332-347
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CHAPTER XXII.
THROUGH GREAT TRIBULATION.
Bright days in Cache Valley. — A brother and a sister restored to fellowships-
Thomas James is again happy with Christina.— But he is a bishop's rival, and that
means danger. — "Blood atonement/' — A nameless horror. — The man becomes a creature.
— Manson perplexed. — "Keep your eye peeled; this is a queer country." — Red-hot dis-
cufvion of polygamy. — News from James; which is no news. — Anti-Gentile Philippics. —
Manson meets Marian. — A good outcome at last — Astonishing conduct of Elder Bri-
arly. — Mystery added to mystery. — Another Gentile panic. — Murder of Brassficld. — Out-
rages on Gentile settlers. — Murder of Dr. Robinson. — Flight of the Gentile pre-emptors. —
Sad fate of Thomas James. — Bishop Warren has his reward. — But heaven is kinder to
Christina than her own people. — She finds release in death. — Briarly flies from the
Territory. — Marian and Manson. — Their Iowa home. — But Utah is the home of the
soul.— And President Grant has given us hope. — Hank Beatty's crime. — Death of his
wife. — The Mansons return to Utah. — As their troubles ended with a marriage, their
uture state is left to faith 348-370
CHAPTER XXm.
SWINGING Ground the circle.
Off for Soda Springs. — A land of wonders. — A chemical laboratory ten miles
qiiare. — Soda by the ton: to be had for the taking. — The "Morrisites" again. — A lit-
le run eastward. — Denver. — Lawrence. — St. Louis. — A day in Nauvoo: " Destined cap-
ital of a religious empire." — To the new North-west, — Yankton. — Assassination of
Secretary McCook. — Steamboating on the Missouri. — Sioux City again. — Enterprising,
but sensational. — Off for Minnesota. — We enter the Garden State. . . 371-378
CHAPTER XXIV.
MINNESOTA.
Reminiscences of 1859.— The^ Bois Brules. — Full-blood Chippeways. — Minnesota
pineries. — The Reel Napoleon of the North-west. — " Hard times " in 1869.— I live on
corn-bread, hoe com, and cultivate muscle. — Better times.— Sioux war of 1862. — Blue-
earth County. — Mankato. — Journey to St. Paul. — Topography. — St. Anthony^s Falls. —
Minnehaha. — Journey to Sauk Rapids. — Staging thence northward. — Belle Prairie. —
Catholic outposts.— Crow Wing. — Black Pine Forest.- Brainard. — Breaking up the Sab-
bath. — A Chippeway dance.— Out on the North Pacific R. R. — The barren region. —
Down to Red River.— Moorehead. — Navigation to British America.— Fargo. — Westward
by construction train. — Dakota's Salt Lake. — Jimtown. — Eastward again. — The lake
region. — Scenery on the St. Louis River. — Among the Scandinavians. — " Postoff." — Jay
Cooke's Banana Zone. 379-389
I
CHAPTER XXV.
THE WAY TO OREGON.
" Let US try the web-feet." — Through Iowa. — Westward from Omaha. — Changes of
four years. — My fourteenth trip over the L^nion Pacific — More trouble in Utah. — Across
the Sierras again. — Up the Sacramento. — Gen. John Bidwell's ranche. — Grapes, figs,
apples, and lemons in November. — Reading. — Walk-in Miller's squaw. — Hi^ life in
jail. — Great forests of the upper Sacramento. — Six CaUJoux. — "Sleeping Dictionary." —
Yreka. — Over the mountains. — Klamath River. — Cow Creek. — South Umpqua. — Rose-
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burgh. — Oregon and California Railroad.— -Down the Willamette. — '* Beaver Lands." — In
Portland. — '^ Such a fog!" — "John Chinaman." — Fir8t-cla«8 funerals needed. — "Web-
feet" maidens. — Shall we go home by sea? — Down the Columbia by steamer. — "Higli
sea running." — "Oh, my head, my stomach! O-o-o! " — The boat goes on end.— ^Thc
land-lubbers fall on all sides. — Better weather. — " On an even keel." — Beauties of the
Pacific. — Cape Mendocino. — The Golden Gate. — Once more on terra firma, 390-405
CHAPTER XXVI.
UlS TEXAS Y LOS TEJANOS.
" G. T. T."— Bad reputation.—" You may go to hell, and Pll go to Texas."— The
author finds things improved. — Through the Indian Territory. — Red River. — Deni-
son. — "Nohth Fohk." — Healthy region.— "The spiral maginnis" or "De menin-
jeesus." — At Sherman. — Down Main Trinity. — Travels in Collin County. — The Cotton
Belt. — In IJllis County. — Navarro and Corsicana. — Insects and other sects. — " A thou-
sand and forty-four legs." — Through Central Texas to Houston. — Buffalo Bayou. — De-
lightful ride to Galveston. — Celebration of San Jacinto. — " Brave Texan : bravest man
in the South, sah!" — Delights of the Galveston beach. — ^^eauties of the island. — Up
country. — The land of border romance. — Bob Rock and his brown meatiza, — Hon.
** Shack " Roberts.— Some political notes.- A tolerant and liberal State. 406-418
CHAPTER XXVII.
HISTORY AND DESCRIPTION OF TEXAS.
La Salle. — First Settlement on the coast. — Origin of the border question.— Murder
of La Salle. — The murderers murdered. — The missions. — Indies reducidos, — "Reduced"
by prayer and fasting. — The " men of reason." — War between the French and Spanish. —
Massacre of San Saba. — Decline of the Missions. — Louisiana ceded to Spain. — Better
times in Texas. — Louisiana ceded back to France. — The border question again. — The
Li'nited States takes a hand. — Fearful murders and robberies. — Magee*s expedition. — Des-
perate battle. — Magee kills himself. — Surrender of his army. — They are barbarously
massacred by the Spaniards. — Revolution in Mexico. — More trouble in Texas. — Moses
and Stephen Austin. — Oppression of the Texans. — Revolution. — Heroic defense of the
Alamo. — Fannin's command butchered. — Glorious victory of San Jacinto. — Independence
and subsequent events. — Descriptive sketch of the State. .... 419-431
CHAPTER XXVni.
KANSAS REVISITED.
Through the new counties. — "Hard times." — The Grangers* War. — Woman suf-
frage. — Allen County. — Neosho. — Labette. — The Bender murderers. — Their real fate. —
Coffey villc. — Ten square miles of cattle! — "Not a good year for stock, either." — The
cattle trails. — Montgomery County. — Kansas politics. — The Osage diminished Re-
serve. — Independence City. — Elk River. — Wikon County. — Neodesha. — Kansas cotton. —
Into the mound region. — Westward, ho! — Among the flint hill8.-*^^uth-we8tem Kansas.
—General view of the State .... 432-446
CHAPTER XXIX.
COLORADO.
Westward again. — 1874. — Disappearance of the buffalo. — Reach Denver. — A long
rest. — Narrow-guage for Georgetown. — The sublime and beautiful in Clear Creek
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Caflon.— Floyd Hill.— Stage to Idaho Springs.— To Georgetown.— 2,000 miners.— But
where are the women? — High climbs. — Cool retreats. — Independence Day on the
summit of the Rocky Mountains. — Snow banks and iced brooks. — Beauties of the
upper parks.— Drive to Gray*8 Peak. — The September storm. — Climb through snow
and ice. — 14,400 feet above the sea. — And a fearful snow-storm in summer. — Down
to Denver. — Up to Caribou. — Wild beauty of Boulder Cafion and Falls. — The rich
silver lodes. — On the plains again. — Ride to Greeley and Evans. 447-469
CHAPTER XXX.
THE CENTENNIAL fiTTATE.
Coronado. — Mythologic age of Colorado. — Pike sees his Peak. — The hunters and
trappers. — Bloody encounters. — Love, treachery, and retribution. — Gold I — ^Thc great
rush. — " Pike's Peak." — Society takes shape. — Miners* laws. — People's courts. — Attempts
at a Territory. — Successful at last: the 38th State. — Our life in Georgetown. — Griffith
Mountain. — "The Holy Cross." — Rich silver mines. — The Divea-Pelican Lode. —
Curiosities of mining. — "Sam Wann," or Juan. — Silver by millions. — Southern Colo-
rado.— The White Deeert- Possibilities of the new State. . . . 470-489
CHAPTER XXXL
THE MORMON MURDERERS.
Another year in Utah. — Capture of John D. Lee. — His awful crime. — Mormon
madness in 1857. — Assassination of Parley P. Pratt. — The doomed emigrants pass
Salt Lake City. — Are harassed as they go south. — Attacked and besieged. — Surrender to
liCe and others. — A plot hatched in hell. — The demon Higby gives the signal. — Fearful
scenes of blood. — One hundred and thirty-one Americans fall victims to Mormon
malice! — And the Grovemor of Utah "never heard of it!" — Brigham certifies to a
falsehood. — And swears to another. — Strange chain of events leading to discovery. — Leo
brought to trial. — Shameful faroe of selecting jurymen. — A black case made out. —
Brigham's remarkable deposition. ......... 490-511
CHAPTER XXXIL
GUILTY OR NOT GUILTY ?
Astonishing conduct of Mormon jurymen. — ^They refuse to convict. — But the Mor-
mon Church can not afford to sustain Lee anj^longer. — They decide to give him up. —
Another trial in 1876. — And a Mormon jury convict Lee. — Sentence pronounced by Judge
Boreman. — Appeal. — Date of execution postponed to March, 1877. — Executed upon the
very spot of his crime. — Lee's final and complete confession. — His last words. — His
peaceful and heroic death. — Was Brigham Young guilty? — Brigham's apologists. —
Captain John Codman, Geo. Q. Cannon, Gen. Thomas L. Kane. . . 512-530
CHAPTER XXXIII.
SPIRITUAL WIVES AND CARNAL HUSBANDS.
Does polygamy pay? — Why it engenders poverty. — Utah the poorest of the Terri-
tories in funded wealth. — Polygamy engenders deceit. — Dissipates social energy. —
And naturally goes along with a theocracy. — Slavish submission of the Mormon laity. —
The "Revelation." — And the falsehood that followed it. — Fourteen printed and sworn
denials. — Frightful perjury. — Primitive marriage. — Monogamous animals. — Monogamy
the rule with all the higher organizations. — Polygamy and Polyandry. — Substantial
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numerical equality of the sexes.— Other evils in Utah.— Duty of Congreas.— Shall we
have a Mormon State? 631-548
CHAPTER XXXIV.
THE NOBLE RED MAN.
The tragedy of June 25th, 1876. — Sorrow of the nation. — Sketch of Custer's life. —
Hancock's campaign of 1867. — Hancock outwitted by the hostiles. — Custer's first Indian
fight. — '* Circling." — Massacre of Lieutenant Kidder and party. — Horrid scenes. — General
Sully's campaign of 1808.— Custer's Washita campaign. — Yellowstone Expedition of
1873. — Murder of Honzinger and Baliran. — Arrest of Rain-in-the-Face.— He escapes
and swears vengeance against Custer. — Black Hills expedition of 1874. — Gold in the Hills.
— Events of 1875. — Campaign of 1876 against Sitting Bull and Crazy Horse.— Custer in
disgrace at headquarters. — The miserable Belknap affair. — Three columns converge on
the hostile camp. — The bloody ending. — Close of the campaign. — Sitting Bull goes to
Canada, and Crazj' Horse to the happy hunting grounds — perhaps. . . 549-575
CHAPTER XXXV.
WOMAN SUFFRAGE IN THE TERRITORIES.
" The coming woman." — ^Has she come in Utah and Wyoming? — Woman suffrage.
— ^A crime in Utah; a fraud in Wyoming. — A trick of the priesthood. — Propositions by
Senator Pomeroy and Representative Julian. — Folly of such schemes. — Women vote. —
And always for the Church as against liberty. — No Mormon women ever voted for free
schools or free speech. — Utah law: no marriage act and no dower law. — Wyoming. —
Woman suflrage adopted as a joke. — IIow it works. — No difference observable. —
Statistics of saloons and "social evils." — Where is the "great moral reform?" — No
women in office. — Women juries. — Why they were discontinued. — Does the good or evil
predominate? 576-591
CHAl^TER XXXVI.
THE DEAD PROPHET.
Brigham dies. — Charity demands only the truth. — His history. — "Hard working
Brigham Young." — The Kirtland folly. — Brigham carries a level head. — Building up
Nauvoo. — Martha Brothcrton "blabs." — And the Prophet and Apostle get into hot water.
— "Spiritual wifery" introduced. — "Persecution." — Death of Joe Smith. — Brigham as
head of the Twelve Apostles. — Journey to Salt Lake Valley.— Trouble with the United
States. — Brigham as a marrying man. — His wives: Mary Ann, Lucy, Clara, Emmelino,
Amelia, and others. — An extensive parent.— His estate.— How will it "cut up?" — Who
will succeed? — And will the Church soon dissolve? 592-606
CHAPTER XXXVIL
WHERE SHALL WE SETTLE?
Go West I— Southern Minnesota. — Iowa.— Southern Dakota.— Nebraska. — ^Kansas.
— The Indian Territory. — No! — Texas. — Don't believe all you hear!— The Indian bor-
der.— California: Land monopoly. — Oregon.— Climate and soil. — "The Great American
Desert." — Probable population in 1900. — Where is the surplus population to go?— Good
land pretty well occupied.— What will be the result? — Western Wilds will continue wild
for a centurv to come 607-624
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LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
Map of Aborioixal America Frontispikcb
The non-resident tax-payer 19
**Our liberties, sir " 21
•* Civilized" 24
•* Thoroughly acclimated " 2tt
** I hunted the pipe-works " 29
Mrs. Joe*8 ** tantrums " «5
** Made music all day " 40
His last chance 45
•* Laying on of hands " 47
** The good old time " 49
•» Only a memory " 61
Pulpit Bock: EchoCaflon 54
The Great Salt Lake 55
On the slope of Griffith Mountain 59
To the rendezvous 62
Cafion de las Animas 65
Getting down to the Cimarron 67
For life or death 71
*« Some one came forward holding a cup " 73
♦» The Mexicans saw no way " 74
^ Dolores flilnted in my arms " 81
** The balls whistled around us ** 85
Brlgham Young 90
Orson Pratt 91
George A. Smith 92
Brlgham *s Residences 95
Humboldt Palisades 105
Seven thousand feet above the sea 107
Cape Horn 166
California Agricultural Report 112
Barbary Coast: San Francisco 115
** Bodaciously chawed up *' 118
Mormon wives for summer and winter 121
Great expectations 135
Dakotas torturing a Pawnee 138
The two guardsmen 141
The Fallen Monarch 142
Something of a stump 148
A monster 145
Tosemite Falls . . 147
ElCapitan 149
Bridal Veil FaU 162
Sentinel Rock 165
North Dome and Royal Arches * 157
Nevada Falls 159
Vernal Falls 180
Mirror Lake 161
Mormon Militia 165
Chloride Cave, Lion HIU 171
Ooshoot Love-feast 178
Lost on the Desert 176
Deacon Chew 183
*'They broke loose and lit out down the street" 184
" And they clinched " 185
«< Half the town took a shy at him" 188
The Seat of War 187
** Where warring tribes met in peace*' -.189
Fine field for the ethnologist 195
** Slem-lem-an-dah-mouch-wah-ger " 201
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XVI ILLUSTRATIONS.
PAGB
"Go West" 211
Wild Bill 213
" Scattering leaden death on all sides *' . . 214
"Divide Hotel and Ranche" 216
"Suggested wild beasts and banditti" 220
The ambush and running fight 225
Pueblo Maiden 2.%
Kit Carson 234
Pueblo Cacique 235
"Woman's Rights" 24^
Coming to the "count" 240
On the Mesa Calabasa 260
"Converted on the spot" 271
Nav£^o Loom 273
Aztec Priest and Warrior 284
Down the cniff 294
Climbing for water . . , 2»5
Month of Pahreah Creek 301
Head of the Grand Cafion . 304
"Three littie Injuns" 312
APi-EdeCeres 813
Winter camp of Goshoots 825
Scenes on the Colorado Plateau • . • • 830
" Dashed across the burning plain " . 835
Thomas James kills the Bannock 346
" Behold our Lamanlte Brother" 856
"Let me look toward old England before I die" 867
" Willie has struck chloride " 369
Bhoshonees with annuity goods 372
Burning of the Mormon Temple 375
Killing of Secretary McCook 877
Pembina people and ox-cart« 379
Winter in Minnesota pineries 880
Minnehaha in winter 3Ji>
Dallesof St. Louis River 3S0
Blue Cafion, Sierra Nevada 891
Cotillion on the stump of the mammoth tree 394
View in the Modoc country ... 896
Rapids, Upper Columbia 402
Cape Mendocino 404
Comanche warrior 410
*• I spiled his aim" 416
Un Indlo Bravo 421
Texas and Coahulla in 1830 ^ . 426
General Sam Houston 428
"Droughty Kansas" 433
" Good Osage— Heap good Ii^un " 440
Affluent of Clear Creek 449
South-west from Gray's Peak 461
Deadly combat of Vaughn and La Bontfi 474
Tolling up Griffith Mountain 480
Capture of John D. Lee ^ 491
Mountain Meadow Massacre 498
Salt Lake City. 1857 f^
Execution of John D. Lee . . . v ^^
New Mining Town 535
Cape Horn and Railroad 51?
The Noble Red Man ^
Scene of Sioux War of 1876 ^\
•Busted'
552
Custer's first Indian fight ^
Rude Surgery of the Plains 5^
"Glantes8,"blgGeyser of the Yellowstone 578
Night bivouac on Green River, Wyoming 584
The Mormon Tabernacle JJJ
Fort Massachusetts, New Mexico, 1855 ««
The Prospector's Peril "20
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WESTERN WILDS,
AND
THE MEN WHO REDEEM THEM.
CHAPTER I.
THE HAWKEYE8.
The rolling prairies of Iowa were taking on their richest summer
hues when I crossed from Prairie du Chien to McGregor, the first
of June, 1868, and entered upon a three hundred mile walk across the
State. The " Land of the Sleepy ,'' as the aboriginal name implies, was
just then the land of men particularly wide awake to their own inter-
ests. I was but one of a grand army ever pushing westward — active,
aggressive, and defiant of space and time. Iowa combined the advan-
tages of both East and West, and men of all North-European races
were crowding to possess it.
There was the Yankee, moving on with that resistless energy which
distinguishes the emigrant from our " Dorian Hive.'' More rarely ap-
peared the " Buckeye '' and " Hoosier ;'' their route was a little fiirther
south, for emigration pays some attention to isothermal lines, and as a
rule older States settle the new States directly west of them. There
was the blonde Swede, tall and sinewy, his blue eye lighting cheerfully
at sight of such landed wealth, in a clime a little milder than his own.
Dane and Norwegian were also hurrying into north-western Iowa and
southern Dakota. All these Scandinavian races are rarely seen south
of latitude 40*^, but fill whole townships in our new North-west.
Dutch, Irish, Swiss, and North Germans contributed each a small
quota. One might have fancied himself borne forward on the crest of
that great Aryan wave which rolled westward and northward from Ba-
bePs plains. Four years after I found many of these emigrants in Da-
kota; already at home upon well-improved fiirms, and surrounded with
most of the comforts of life.
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18 WESTERN WILDS.
Iowa and Minnesota were doubtless settled by the best class of im-
migrants that ever left the East. Their laws are favorable, their insti-
tutions progressive. Born republicans, these new-comers fell, by nat-
ural law, into free and progressive commonwealths. At first view one
would say that our mother English was in danger of being lost, and
that a new language would, ere long, rise in these mixed communities.
But English is the language of progress, and that tongue in which laws
are written and courts conducted will in time become the ver-
nacular of any new country. In no part of America is a purer English
spoken. The native of Indijfna finds, when settled beside the Yankee,
that he must drop some of his " Hoosierisms f while the accent and
idiom brought from " Down East '^ are insensibly modified, till the
children of both compromise on the written language. Two hundred
years ago when a man spoke in the British Parliament it was known
on the instant what shire he represented ; travel and civilization have
since made the cultured Northumbrian and East Angle to be of one
speech.
No grammar of the " Hoosier '^ language has ever been published.
Before it becomes extinct, as have so many dialects, it may be well for
one who spoke it in his childhood to fix a few of its idioms. It abounds
in negatives. Unlike English and Latin, an abundance of negatives
is held to strengthen the sentence. " Don't know nothing '' is com-
mon. " See here,'' says the native, looking for work, to the farmer,
"you don't know o' nobody what don't want to hire nobody to do
nothin' nowhere around here, don't you?" "No," is the reply, "I