dbtsticity! Water cresses are most esteemed when
grown upon running streams and a gravelly soil,
where

fresh at the bottom
Smiles the green cress aquatic.

The Dutch eat great quantities of them in the spring,
as an antiscorbutic. They are peculiarly suited to
counteract the ill effects of too much animal food,
and have J^een eaten as a salad by our ancestors from
time immemorial. Gerard says, eating water cresses
restores the 'wonted bloom to the cheeks of young
ladies :* and Lord Bacon himself praises them, as
friendly to life while young and tender.

The cultivation of the water cress is said to have
been first attempted, in 1808, by a Mr. Bradbury,
near Gravesend. This cultivator now grows five
acres near Rickmansworth*: he sends the cress in
hampers, each containing eight dozen bunches, to the
London markets, every day throughout the year, ex-
cepting Sundays ; and in consequence of this and
other supplies, the wholesale price of the article is
reduced one-half. There are £uso several cultivators
of water cresses at Hackney, Bayswater, Uxbridge,
and other places. The Paris market is partiy sup-
plied from gardens in the neighbourhood, but chiefly
#Pom places at a considerable distance, where the
culture of water cress forms a distinct branch of in-
dustry. Great quantities are constantiy to be seen
«n the stalls, being much used both in salads, and



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966 cultnart vegetables.

pressed like spiuage or sorrel. The pidced leaTes
are very generally served along "with roasted fowl,
^d form the favourite di^ of pouM au crtsam^. —
^ IfQudon, and the Hortumltwrul Tour. :

Cucumber {cucumis sativm) .-^T^ht xi^cve^he^ is
of nearly as great antiquity as &c vine, for dtfeses
mentions it as abounding in Egypt, when thechihiren
of Israel were there about 3000. years ago. ;In J^^
^and^ it is cultivated generally aad extensively in
lorqing frames and in .the open air, and espefcdadiy
near latge cities and towns. In Hertfordshire^ whole
fields are annually seen covered with cweumbsrs^
without the aid of dung or glass, and the produee of
which is sent to the aietropolis for pickling. In
March, cucumbers fetch in the London market a
guinea a dozen ; in August and September one pemqr
a dozen. The village of Sandy, in Bedfordshire, has
been known to furnish 10,000 bushels of pickling
cucumbers in one weel^. The culture of the cucuipi-
ber as a table esculent is general^ carried on by
artificial beat; but as it would lead us too much into
detail to give full directions for forcing this agreeable
salad, we must refer to Mr^ Ijfudon*s EncydQp€Bdia^
pp. 569-580, where ev^ry tjiing loiown relative to the
cultivation of die cucumber is coUe^cted and systema*
tically arranged.

Dandelion (hontpdm taraxacum) is eat^ in
salads early in the spring, while the leaves are hard-
ly unfolded. The French eat the roots and leaves
blanched with' bread and butter. Our common name
is well known to be a mere corruption of their dent^
de'lion, lion's tooth : it is a notorious weed» and com-
mon all over Europe. If taken irom the road sides,
and planted in a garden, it may be bitched in 4he
spring; and will become an agreeable herb to mix
with other salads, which may be procured when
lettuce and endive are not easily to be obtained.

Endivb fcichorium endiviaj is a native of Cluna
and J^an. Th^ plain broad-leaved endive is not



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SALADS. 267

much cultivated in tke English gardefts^ foir flie ourl-
ed sorl^ being tenderer and not so bitter, is gene-
rally preferred* It id one of the principal ingre^
dients in automn and winter salads. The first sea*-'
son for sowing the seeds is in May, the next about
the. middle of June, and the last at the middle of
July. These three crops will furnish a supply for
the whole season. As soon as they appear, weed
and water them in dry weather, and remove them,
when fit to transplant, to a rich spot of well-dug, dry^
open ground. Here place all the largest plants,
drawing them up from the seed-bed, with their roots
even, cutting off the tops of the leaves of etery hand-
ful as ihey are taken up. Afterwards tnark out the
ground in rows a foot asunder^ and set the plants
t^i inches apart in thq rows, closing the earth well
to their roots. The quantity of plants fitst trans<^
planted: will be fit to blanch by the latter end 'Of July
at farthest, and, when properly managed, will be St
for use in a month or three weeks. There should
not be too many plants tied up to blanch at the same
time: the largest should be tied first; in a week after
those of the next size, and in the week following the
next) so that fbr small families there wiU be three
distinct blanchings, and for latger families more
plants each time in proportion. In tying them up,
gather all the inner leaves of the plant into one hand;
tiien those of the outside that are sound, pulling off
adl that are decayed or injured, next to the ground,
and placing all of them in the order of their growth;
next tie the whole platit very close about two inches
below the top, with a twig; and in a week's time
again about the middle; and in three weeks or a
month they will be quite blanched, and will keep
good in that state for about a fortnight longer.

Mr. 6range> who keeps a large fruit and market-
garden at Hoxton, plants out endive on the slope of
tile banks et the roots of his hedges ; and when he
has not enough of these, he throws up others with the



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268 CULINARY VJB0STABLB8.

sloping face to the south ; on them he places foiir
rows of tiles, stuck more than half way into the
earthy with the convex side to the sun: a plant of
endive is then placed on the opposite side of each.
These banks he covers in winter with clippings of
hedges^ or with straw, to protect them from severe
frosts.— Hor^tctfttura/ Tour.

Lbttucb (lactuca saliva).— The garden lettuce
appears to have been known all over Europe and
Asia in the remotest ages ; it was served up in its
natural state at the table of the kings of Persia
maiiy centuries before the Christian era.

The several varieties of the lettuce cultivated for
use in kitchen gard^is are, the common garden let-
tuce, the cabbage lettuce, the Cilicia, Dutch brown,
Aleppo, imperial, green capuchin, Versailles or
upright white cos, black cos, red capuchin, Ro«
man, prince, royal, and the Egyptian cos. Thecom-
mon sort is sown for cutting very young, to mix with
other salad herbs. It should not, however, be cul-
tivated for that purpose only ; it may >e sown at any
season of the year, during hot weather in shady
borders; in spring and autumn upon warm borders;
but in winter under glasses, to protect it from frosts
The cabbage lettuce may also be sown at different
times of the year, in order to have a continuation
of it through the whole season. The Cilicia, im-
perial, royal, black, white, and upright cos lettuces,*
may be sown first at the latter end of February, or
the beginning of March, upon a moderate hot bed,
or on a warm light soil, in a sheltered situation.
Transplant them at the beginning of April, where
they are to remain, placing them sixteen inches apart
each way. After they have taken fresh root, weed
them carefully, which is all the culture they will re-
quire, except the black cos lettuce, which should be
tied up when they are full grown, as directed for
blanching the endive. These sorts may be conti-
nued throughout the lettuce season by sowing them'



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SAtADS. 269

in April, May, and June, obaerrin^ to put down the
late crops in a shady situsltion. Ine most valuable
sorts are the Egyptian green cos^ and the Versailles
or white cos/ and the Cilicia; the first of which is
the best of all. The brown, Dutch, and green ca-
puchin lettuces, are very batdy, and may be sown at
the same season as' the common cabbage lettuce.
The red capuchin, Roman, and princess lettuces, are
pretty varieties, which cabbage early, and are |ood
in soups. The lactuca virosa, or strong^scented let-
tuce, is a native of the south of Europe, in hedges,
on ditch-banks, and borders of fields. It abounds
with a milky juice, which is an opiate so powerful as
to be nearly as strong as that imported from abroad.
Among the products of the kitchen garden, tihe poet
does not forget to enumerate

the thick-scattered bed
Of soporific lettace.

The Romans first introduced the lettuce at the end
of supper, but the Emperor Domitian changed that
order, and with it began his feast. Great ^quantities
of lettuce, mixed with oil and p^epper^ are still
eaten sirt tixe commenoMient. of dinneir by our jGaUic
neighbours. But the Romans, it may be presumed^
knew notiiittg of that Tie pJtis nltra of modern luxu-
ries, a LOBSTBR-SALAD, of wbich the iettttfiefqxmB
so pimnioent a portion^ Somie years jmci^ a man
went itbout towii o&ring liis services to tamMtuet
this dish at half-a-guinea peroperation:— but we will
give our readiers a receipt, by an amateur, Wiorth
twice tibe man^; here it is, and may be easily com*
n^tttedtomemoiy:-" »

Three yinWMWif4 flp90«A4i fot of -puMupl iQll
Hie flftik^gittst 7»4UI-i^4be«^^Ui of Laaea^Biieil;
These first with ^t the knowi*^ artui blends^
<Oa diis the union of the .whole depends)
Then jpmigent Mustard add, then acid Wine ;
And ttss, tiie adverse flnSds so eonibine,
No oily li^ts the keenest eye nfay note,
That on the homogeneons liquid float
z2

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270 CULINARY VfiGBTABLEfl.



i Now Cayenne's generouB warmtb I add ; and ngw
Of macey essence half a drop allow.
Now bring the Lobster o'er whose shell is spread
The mottled white amid the darkest red ;
Crack well the crooked claw, and slit the tail;
And tear the thorax from its sbKd mail;
Extract the pulp, the coral too divide,
And place ttiSem all in order by my side.
Now tiie crisp Lettuce in the bowl I shred,
(filanched Endive serves in winter in its stead ;
Nor then the snowy Celery disdain); .
Now from the Tyrrhene wave Anchovies twain
I add ; and Gherkins slice, and buds of Caper rain*
With these alternately the fish I spread,
And mingle with the white the coral's red ;
And kolid egg in even slices lay.
In which round yellow orbs white circles play ;
Again the blended fluid in I throw.
And join, at last, the Beet-root's crimson glow.

But if our readers prefer a l^ss sublime receipt
than this^ — one in plain prose, ^ short and sweet' -^
let them take the following from ' Conrad Cooke's
Cookery and Confectionary*.

^ No. 510* Lobster Salad, — Pick two lobsters; put a handfal of
salad or lettuce cut in a dish ; cover it over with the pieces of
lob^er ; add three eggs, boiled hard, half a dozen slices of beet
root boiled, and cover all over with salad mixture, which is'di^
rected to be made as follows :^-

No, 113. Saiad Mixture,— -Chop and rub four sbalots in a
mortar, with, six boiled yolks, of eggs, a spoonful of salt, .and
ditto of made mustard; hdi half a pint of salad oil by degrees:'
^en perfectly smooth,. add' also half a pint of vinegar; mix it
weli»'aiulkeep:it in an inoorporator well stopped, leaking it be-
fore using.

Mustard. — Of this there are three ptincipaI>sorts/
the sinapis arven&s, wild niustard or charlock ; flie

' This is not only the best, but the most economical Cookery-book
extant ; one great advatitage peculiar to this important family uka-
nual is, tbat the weigkU and mea9ure$ of the different articles are
accurately defined^ as well as the rius required for roasting, boiling,
frying, &c. fish, flesh, and fowl, of all. sorts and sizes.' 4^ the
receipts have, we understand, been worft«d by the author, who has
been for many years«~and is now well known at Brighthelmstone, as
an accomplished professor of the very useful art upon which he has
written.



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salads/ 27 1

^ 1 1 . ■ ■ I .. II. J ■I . .. ■ ■■■. ■ — I., .

alba or white mastard ; and the nigra, the black or
cojnmoQ sort. The first, is commonly sold qnder the
name of Durham mustard seed : the second is gene-
rally cultivated in gardens as a salad herb, for win-
ter and spring use. The seed of the third kind re-
duced to powder forms the mustard used at our ta-
bles. In this state it will curdle milk and impregnate
boiling water very strongly. Sow the seeds of the
white mustard, which is the principal kind for salads;
in' very thick drills, upon a warm border, or in very
cold weather upon a moderate hot- bed, and they
will be fit for use in ten days or a fortnight

This warm salad and its seed were of great repute
among antient cooks. Columella elegantly calls it
fletumfactura sinapi, the tear-creating mustard ; and
Plautus, on account of its )[>ungent taste, namesMt
scekrata sinapi, the wicked mustard. The etymo-
logy of mustard ought to be recorded. In 1383,
Philip the Bold, Duke of Burguudy, going to march
against his revolted neighbours, and Dijon' having
foHiished for that expedition its quantum of 1,000
armed men, the duke, in kind acknowledgment^
granted to the town, among other privileges, the per*
mission of bearing his armorial ensigns with his motto,
moult mt tarde, ' I long, I wish ardently/ In con-
sequence of this mark of princely condescension, the
Dijonese munipipality ordered the arms and motto to
be beautifully sculptured over the principal gate of
the city, which was done accordingly. But time,
/emjMfs edax, and that incessant drop of water which
causes the destruction of the hardest stone, non vi
sed siBpe cadendo, or some particular accident, having
obliterated the middle word iii€, the remaining ones,
moult, tarde, :gave occasion to the name in fiie fol-
lowing manner. For a long lapse of time, the mer-.
chants of Dijon have been and are still great dealers
in iineve, or sinapi (mustard seed), and have a me-
thod of grinding it wi^ salt, vinegar, and other ingre-
dients^ in order to preserve it and send it' to all parts



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272 CULINARY VBOETABLB^.

erf the world. On their senevi-ipots they used to paste
a label, ensigned with the Duke of Burgundy^s arms
and the motto as it accidentally remained then over the
gate of the city, mouU-tarde; hence the name which
the sinapi composition has preserved to this day.
It might be observed that the natural pungency of
tiiis litde seed, expressed in Latin by multum ardet^
and in old French by moult arde, 'it bums much/
might be taken as the real thema of the word. Qut
it does not appear that the Dijonese were ever scfao*
lars enough to boirow from the tongue of Cicero a de^
nomination for the object of their trade. However,
in latter times, an eminent mustard-manufacturer of
that place proved hknself somewhat acquainted with
Latin, since he wrote jocosely over his shop* door^
Mulimn tardat, Divto rixam; tbat is, Mtmlt-tarde,
Dijon- noise; 'Dijon-mustard.' Pliny pretends that
mustard is an antidote against venomous mushrooms.
-^TeAella Cibaria.

The white nmstard seed (sold by seedsmm at
one shilling per pound) has latelv been used in me-
dicine as an aperient: it is s€dd to act not only on
the bowels, but on the skin, &c. It is likewise found
to strengthen and invigorate, in a remarkable degree,
the whole line of the alimentary canal^ and conse-
quently to improve digestion and assimilation^ and
wiUi that appetite, sleep, and general health. When
the seed is used |is a remedy for occasional constipa-
tion, it should be tcdcen fasting, about an hour before
breakfast; and, generally speaking, a smalt table
spoonful is the prop^ dose. With some constitutions
a tea spoonfol in the morning is sufficient, while others
reqnire . a second large dose to be taken at night'.
The mustard seed is also recommended in a variety

' As tbe mustard seeds urill float at the top of th« water in which
thex are taken, tkey ejiould be softkeil in a*wiiie glaai half foil of
water, about three or four bours before they are taken, aa they then
become enveloped in a kind of mucilage, and, adhering to each other,
are twitUewed by the patient without Uie least difficnlty.



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8ALABS. 273

of diseases. See Gentleman's Magazine^ vol. xciv,
partly p. 583;

Sorrel frumex aceiosa). — This native vegetable
Is now almost entirely discarded in England^ where
it was once used in sauces and salads, diough the
French still cultivate it for their tables. Fricandeau a
VozeilUj stewed veal and sorrel, is one of. the best
among the entries or substantial elemehts of the first
coarse of a French dinner. A weU-chosen piece of
yeal, weighing under three pounds and without bones,
is stewed gently on an even fire for several bom's, in
the native strength of its own juice and gravy; the
learnedly directed needle, we will suppose, has been
busily employed to lard the subject before it was
confined : when properly done, the meat is placed
upon a bed of sorrel, subdued by gentle boiling in
water, and then blended with the gravy and juice of
the veal. Sorrel, possessing a naturally strong acid
in the composition of its leaves and stalks, has been
employed as a dentifrice; and in some parts of Ire-
land they eat the leaves plentifully with fish and other
food. Sow the seeds, early in spring, in a shady
moist border; and if the plants be sifterwards remov-
ed into another shady border at the distance of four
or six inches square, they will produce larger leaves
and for a longer period. The dried root affords a
beautiful red colour when boiled. The whole plant
is a very powerful antiscorbutic.

Among the other acetarious plants, occasionally
used either as salads, or ingredients for them, may
be mentioned rape, corn-salad, mint, the American
and winter cress, brook-lime, wood sorrel, purslane,
tarragon, fennel, chervil, Indian cress, bumet, and
borage: the last two are favourite herbs for negus
and cool tankards; and a few leaves of the wood
sorrel communicate an agreeable flavour to dishes
of mashed greens.

fto be continued.]



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274 bbmarkablb Bays



In NOVEMBER 182^

THE lively and amusing writer, so often quoted,
thus characterizes the mach-abased fogs of No-
vember: 'The frosts and snows of December,' he
^ays, 'are as welcome to me in their turn as the
flowers in May. Najr> the so much vituperated fogs
of November I by no means set my face against ; on
the contrary, I have a kind of appetite for then^—
both corporeal and mental. As an affair of mere
breath, there is something tangible in Aem. In the
evanescent air of Italy a man might as well not
breathe at all, for any thing he knows of the matter.
But in a November fog there is something satisfjdng.
You can feel what you breathe, and see it too. It
is like breathing water — M I suppose the fishes do.
And then the taste of them, when dashed with a due
seasoning of sea-coal smoke, is far from insipid.
Not that I would recommend them medicinally ; es-
pecially to persons of queasy stomachs, delicate
nerves, and a£9iicted witfi bile* But for one of a
good robust habit of body, and not dainty wittial,
which such, by the bye, never are, there is nothing
better in its way than a well*mixed Metropolitan
fog« There is something substantial in it. Yon may
'cut and come again.' It is at once^meat and
drink, too - somethiog between egg-flip and omelette
soufflee; but much more digestible than either. And
it wraps you round like a cloak, into the bargain.
No — I maintain that a London fog is a thing not to
be sneezed at — ^if you can help it.-^JIfem. As many
spurious imitations of the above are abroad— such as
Scotch mists, and the like, which are no less dele-
terious than disagreeable— please to ask for the ^'trae



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IN N<»VBMB&R 1825« 275

London Particular/' as maanfattured by Thames,
Coal-gas, Smoke, Steaoi, and Co.— No others are
genuine/— Ti*€ Mmths, No- HI.

1.— ALL SAINTS.

This festival is not of very great antiquity. It
originated in a gift of the Roman Pantheon, the
temple of all the Pagan deities, made by the Em-
peror Phocas, about A.D, 610, to Pope Boniface,
who consecrated it and dedicated it to Ail Martyrs,
and appointed a feast in honour of them. The pre-
sent and final condition of departed saints is one of
the most interesting enquiries that can occupy the
human mind. Their company is said to be * innu-
merable,' and to consist of ^all nations, and kin-
dreds, and people, and tongues.' ^ No distinction
in happiness ynll be awarded to particular com-
plexions, or languages, or forms of worship ; no dis-
tinction but what may be likened to the beautiful va-
riety which God hath given to the flowers of the
field, enriching some with different colours to delight
the eye, some with various perfumes to gratify the
smell.' — See some adrnkablo reflections on this mo-
mentous subject in the Protestant Beadsman, pp. 100-
109.

In the early ages of Christianity, the word saint
was applied to all believersy as is evident in the use
of it by Saint Paul and Saint Luke; but the term
was afterwards restrided to smh as excelled in
Christian virtues.

Hallowe'en is the eve of this day, on wbieh many
superstitious ceremonies are still observed in distant
parts of the United Kingdom : see our former volumes.

*1. 1822.— A MERMAID EXHIBITED IN LONDON,

Which continued to be shown to the curious in
these matters for many montiis. The lAtetary Ga-
zette^ with much ingenuity, endeavoured to prove
that it consisted of the members of various animals
dexterously put togefter ; and this, we believe, was
ibB fact. The foUowteg amusing lines appeared in



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276 REMAEKABLB DATS

some ephemeral publications of the day ; and> as ibej
deserve a less perishable record than has been hi-
therto assigned to Aem, we now present them to our
readers.

Address to the Mermaid, now exhibiting in London,

Come, Mistress Mennaid, tell us, for youVe seen
The deeps and tbings proud Science pines to see ;

Be kind, and say if you haye ever been
In worlds the poets deck with imageiy —

Say, as you floated on the green sea's billoWy

Didst e*er see Neptune's car, or Amphitrite's pillow?

Now, are there really coral caves below.

Or beds of amber, or of precious stone,
To which the blushing Nereids languid go

In idle hours to recline upon ?
And are there fays to fan them while they're dreaming.
Whose wings seem like two diamonds purest, gleaming?

Come, tell the truth, for none, dear Mermaid's, by,
To stop you short, or tweak you by the nose.

Or contradict you, should you tell a fie —
As you the secrets of the deep disclose ;

Therefore, be candid, and declare this minute.

The wonders of the sea, and all that's in it.

Alas I you're dumb, and cannot even say,

As quick you sped from giant sea to sea,
i How many sharks you've numbered in a day,

Or if you fought them, or thought it best to flee:
Quite mute you are, and quite absurd the notion.
From thee to pump the secrets of the ocean.

Farewell, dumb thing! perhaps the next we find
_^So long a time may not require to woo—
'Twill speak, perchance, and haply prove most kind.

And tell us all we've useless sought of you—
Rare information yielding on the morning.
She's clapp't within the glass-case you're adorning.

RICHARD RYAN.

2. — ALL SOULS.

In Catholic countries^ on the eva and day of All
Sonls, the churches are hung with black; the tombs
are opened ; a coffin covered with blacky and sur-
rounded with wax lights^ is placed in the nave of the
church; and in one corner, figures in wood, repre-



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IN N6VBMBBR 1825. 277

senting tiie sools of the deceased^ are halfviray
plunged into the flames.

3. — KING WILLIAM LANDBD.

The glorious tevolution of 1688 is commemorated
on this day, when the throne of England became
vested in the iUustrious House of Orange. Although
King William landed on the 5th of November, as
is specified in the prayers of the Church for that
day, the almanacks still continue the mistake of mark-
ing it as the fourth*

5. — POWDER PLOT,

This day is kept to commemorate the diabolical
attempt of the Papists to blow up the Parliament
House. The best account of this nefarious transac-
tion is detailed in Hume's History of England, vol.
vi, pp. 33-38 (8vo edition, 1802.)— See also T.T.
for 1814, p. 280.

^6^ 1711.— SOUTHWELL CATHEDRAL STKUCK BY
LIGHTNING.

In the evening of this day, a very violent storm, at-
tended with thunder and lightning, passed over the
town. Between eleven and twelve o'clock, a small
flame, not larger than a candle would emit, was per-
ceived by those who lived near the church to rise
from ttie very summit of the south spire. There was