John Murray (Firm).

Handbook for travellers in Scotland online

. (page 1 of 73)
Online LibraryJohn Murray (Firm)Handbook for travellers in Scotland → online text (page 1 of 73)
Font size
QR-code for this ebook


Columbia S^nittem'tp

THE LIBRARIES




{









p







'-^'^ h^^^'



rn



HANDBOOK FOE TRAVELLERS



SCOTLAND



FOURTH EDITION, REVISED



WITH TRAVELLING MAPS AND PLANS



■ -EGND-a^'^'.': ^

JOHN MUEEAY, ALP.EMABLE STEEET

EDINBURGH: OLIVER & B0YD7 'I^TJT3LTN: W H. SMITH & SON

1875



'\'\-^Z'\^%






PEEFACE,



Notwithstanding the existence of other Guides for Scotland, the
constant demand for a Handbook for Travellers in that country,
and reiterated assurances that such a work is reallv needed, have
induced the publisher to offer this volume to the public as part of
his series.

If it possess any superiority above its predecessors, it will be
found to depend on its being compiled from bona fide personal
knowledge of the country, on the clearness of its arrangement, and
the facilities of reference ; and, above all, it is hoped on its accu-
racy and completeness. But as perfect correctness is scarcely to be
attained in a work of this class, crammed so full of names, dates,
and facts, man}^ of them constantly changing from year to year, but
capable of verification on the spot, those who make use of it are
earnestly invited kindly to point out any errors or omissions which
may be detected, and communicate them to the publisher.

The Editor of the Handbooks to North and South Germany,
France, etc, having of late years travelled much in Scotland, with
never ceasing admiration of the country, has undertaken the re-
vision of the Third and Fourth Editions of the " Handbook of
Scotland." He has revised great part of it on the spot, and has re-
written nearly one-half. He would fain hope that he has rendered
the book more correct, complete, methodical, and practically useful
to travellers in general. The division of the Routes into sections
enables him to offer a few general observations under each, with
the design of directing the stranger at once to the most interesting
objects, and hence aid him in planning his own Route.

a 1



LIST OF MAPS AND PLANS.



Index or Clue Maps of Scotland at beginning and end of the volume.

Basin of the Dee ....

Plan of Edinburgh ....
Edinburgh to Perth, Stirling, Melrose, Moffat, etc.
Glasgow and Stirling to the Trossachs and Loch Lomond
Plan of Glasgow .....

Firth of Clyde, AiTan, Loch Fyne, and Loch Long .
Oban to Glencoe, Mull, lona, Staffa, and Loch Awe
Caledonian Canal .....
Perth to Killin and Blair- Athole

Sketch Map of Loch Coruisk, Quiraing, and Storr Pvock
Skye, Gairloch, and Loch Maree
Sutherland, Caithness, and part of Ross
Sketch outline of Glen Clova
,, ,, Larig Pass

Travelling Map of Scotland ....



to face title-page


tofacf


I page


42
66
126
141
180
225
243
286
381
394
400
322
295


at ena


of volume



* N.B.— The figures on the Clue Maps refer to the numbers of the Routes.



Abbiieviatio>'s —

m. — Mile. Ely. — Railway ; Stat. — Station.
1:^. S. E."W. — Points of compass.

P. H. — Attached to names of Inns, Post Horses and Carriages.
C. — Commercial.

+ Indicates a Pier, or Landing-place of Steamers.
* Calls attention to objects worth notice ; and, in the case of Inns, is
a mark of recommendation.



CONTENTS.



Preface

General Introdfctiox



111

[9]



SECTION I.



The South of Scotland— Lowlands — Land of Scott and Burns-
The Border — Tweedside — Yales of Tweed, Xith, Upper Clyde.

EOUTES.

*^* The names of places are printed in italics only in those routes where
the places are described.



ROUTE p.-

A London to Edinburgh (Leitli),
by Sea ....

1 Carlisle to Edinburgh, by

LiddesdaU, Haioick {Dry-
burgh), Melrose, Ahhotsford,
and Galashiels — Eailway

2 Newtown St. Boswells Junc-

tion to Berwick-ou-Tweed,
by Jedburgh, Kelso {Flod-
den), and Coldstream

3 Newtown St. Boswells to

Reston Junction, by Green-
law and DuHsc— Railway

4 BerwicTc to Edinburgh, by

Coldingham,D unbar {Sovih.
Ber\vick], Haddington, Pres-
tonpans, and Musselburgh,
North British Railway
(Coast Line)

5 Carlisle to Edinburgh (Glas-

gow, or Stirling), by ioc^'cr-
bie [Lochnuibcn], BeaUock
\_Moffat\ and Carstairs
Junction — Caledonian Ry.
5a Symington Junction to
Peebles, by Biggar and
Broughton

6 Galashiels to Moffat, by Sel-

kirk (Rail), Vale of Yar-
row, St. Mary's Loch, and
Grey Mare's Tail



29



31



68



ROUTE PAGE

7 Selkirk to Moffat, bv the

Ettrick Valley . " . 80

8 Carstairs Junction to Glas-

gow. [Branch to Lanark,
Falls of the Clyde, and
Douglas'] . . . .81

8 a Qf\.2iiigo^\ io Bothwcll, Ham-

ilton, Lanark, and Falls
ofChjde .... S3

9 Carlisle to Glasgow, by An-

nan, Dumfries, Sanquho/r,
Kilmarnock, and Dairy
Junction . . . ,90

10 Dumfries to Fortimtrick, by

Castle - Douglas, Neioton-
Stewart, Wigtown, & Stran-
raer — Caledonian Rail. 101
10a Castle-Douglas to Kirkcud-
bright, Dundrennan Abbey,
Gatehouse-of-Fleet, Antcoth 109

11 Stranraer to Ayr, hj Ballan-

trae, Girvan, and Maybole 112

12 At/t to Glasgow, by Troon,

Kilivinning, A rdrossan.
Paisley [Dalmellington, and
Loch Doon] . . . 116

13 Edinburgh to Galashiels, by

Dalkeith, Hawth ornden,
Roslin, Penicuik, Peebles,
and Innerleithen . ,125



VI



Contents.



SECTION II.

Central Scotland — Glasgow — Stirling — Dumbarton — Part of
Lanark and Perthshire — Loch Lomond — Loch Katrine — The
Trossachs.



ROUTE PAGE

14 Edinburgh to Dunfermline,

by Dalmeny, Queensferry,
and InverTceithing . .137

15 Edinburgh to Stirling, by

the Forth, Alloa, and Cam-
buskemieth . . .140

16 Edinburgh to Glasgow, by

Linlithgoto and Falkirk . 144

17 Glasgow to Edinburgh, by

Airdrie and Bathgate . 158
17a Edinburgh to Glasgow, by
Mid-Calder, Holj^town, and
Gartsherrie Ironworks , 160

18 Edinburgh or Carstairs Junc-

tion to Stirling, by Larhert
and Bannockburn . .161



ROUTE PAGE

19 Glasgow to Loch Lomond and

Tarhet, by Dumbarton and
Balloch [Helensburgh, Gare-
loch]— Rail. . . .165

20 Stirling to Inversnaid, by

Loch Mcnteith, Aherfoyle,
and Loch Chon . . . 172

21 Stirling to Loch Lomond, by

Dunblane, Callander, Loch
Katrine, and The Tros-
sachs .... 174

22 Stirling to Loch Lomond

(Balloch), by Drymen
[Forth and Clyde Rail.] .182



SECTION III.

ESTUART OF THE ClTDE — BuTE— ArRAN— LOCHS LoNG, GoiL, FtNE,

Awe— Etive — Linnhe— Inveraray — Oban— Mull — Iona — Staffa
— Glencoe — Ben Nevis — Caledonian Canal.



23 Descent of the Chjde. Glas-

gow to Arran, by Greenock
and Wemyss Bay . .188
23a Glasgow to Greenock and
Wemyss Bay, by Paisley
an^L Bridge of TFciV— Rail. 199

24 Glasgow to Campheltown and

M^dl of Cantyre (by sea) . 199

25 Campbeltown to Tarhert, by

Barr, and WestTarhert Loch 202

26 Glasgow to Islay and Jura 204

27 Glasgow to Ohan, by the

Clyde, Dunoon, Bothcsay,
Kyles of Bute, Loch Fyne,
Ardrishaig, and Crinan
Canal .' . . . 209

28 Ardrishaig to Oban, by Loch

Awe and Gorge of the
Brander . . . .213

29 Glasgow to Inveraray, by

Dunoon, Kihnun, Holy Loch,
Loch Eck, and Loch Fyne . 216

30 Glasgow to Inveraray, by

Loch Goil, or by Loch Long,
and Arrochar . . .217

31 Loch Lomond (Tarbet) to



Oban, by the Pass of Glen-
croe, Inveraray, Loch Aice,
and Dahnalhj . . .218

34 Loch Lomond to Fort- Wil-

liam, by Tyndrum, Glencoe,
and Ballachulish . . 225

35 Oban to Staffa and Io7ia, — a

Cruise round the /. of Mull 229

36 Oban to Bannavie, by Loch

Linnhe, Appin, Ballachu-
lish (Glencoe), and Fort- JFil-
liam — Ben Nevis . . 238
36a Ardgour to Lochs Sunart
and Moidart by Strontian
and Salen . . .242

37 Fort-William (Bannavie) to

Arisaig, bv Glenfinnan and
Loch Shiel . . .242

38 Fort- William to Kingussie,

by Glen Spcan, Glen Roy
{the Parallel Roads), and
Loch Laggan . . .245

39 Bannavie to Inverness, by

the Caledonian Canal, Fort-
Augustus, Loch Oich, Loch
Ness, and Falls of Foyers . 247



Contents.



vu



SECTION lY.

Fife — St. Andrews — Kinross — Clackmannan — Part of Perth-
shire — Perth— DuNKELD — Dundee — Forfar, etc.



ROUTE PAGE

40 Edinburgh to Dundee, by

Burntisland, Ciqmr, and St.
Andrev)s .... 256
40a Edinburgh to Perth, by
Burntisland Ferry, Mark-
inch, Ladyhank, A hernethy,
and Bridge of Earn . . 265

41 Edinburgh to Dunfermline,

Kinross, and Stirling, by
Thornton Junction . . 267

42 Stirling to Kinross and Perth,

by [Alva] Alloa, Dollar,
Cattle Cam2)bell, Bumbling
Bridge, Kinross (Rail), and
Cauldron Linn [Glenfarg] 269

43 Stirling to Perth, by Criejf

Junct. and Auchterarder . 274

44 Callander to Dunkeld, by

Lochearnhead, KilUn



(Eail), 'Kenmore, Tay-
mouth, and Abcrfcldy . 278

45 Stirling or Perth to Loch-

earnhead, by Crieff (Rail),
Comrie, and St. Fillans . 284
45a Crieff to Aberfeldy or Dun-
keld, by Amulree and the
Small Glen . . . 288

46 Taymouth (Kenmore) to In-

veroran, by Fortingal and
Glcnhjon . . . .289

47 Kenmore to King's House

(Glencoe), by Kinloch-Ran-
noch. (For Pedestrians) . 290

48 Perth to Forres and Inverness,

by Dunkeld, Killiccrankic,
Blair - A thole, Kingussie,
and Grantoivn (Rail) . 292

49 Perth to Dundee and A rbroath

(Rail) . . . .303



SECTION V.

Aberdeen — Forfar — Deeside — Braemar — Strathspey — Elgin-
Banff — Nairn — The Cairngorm Mountains.



PAGE I ROUTE



50 Perth to Aberdeen, by Ciq^r-

Angus, Forfar {Brechin),
Montrose and Stonehaven . 315

51 Kirriemuir to Ballater and

Braemar, by Glen Clova . 326
51a Brechin to Glenshee, by
West Water, Clova, Glen-
prosen, and Glen Isla. (For
Pedestrians) . . .329
51b Brechin to Ballater, by Fd-

zell and Glcnmark . . 331
51c Brechin to Banchory, by
Ed^ell, Fettercairn, and the
Cairn Mount . . . 333

52 Aberdeen to Braemar, by

Banchory, Aboyne, Ballater
(Rail), and Balmoral . 334
52a Braemar to Aviemore, by
Liiin of Dee, Wells of Dee,
and the Larig Rue Pass.
[Ascents of Ben Muich-
Dhui and Loch A' an {Avon)] 342



52b Braemar to Dunkeld [and
Pitlochrie], by Sjjital of
Glenshee, Bridge of Cally,
and Blairgowrie . . 347

52c Braemar to Blair- Athole, by

Bainoch and Glentilt . 349

53 Aberdeen to Fraserburgh and

Peterhead . . . .351

54 Aberdeen to Alford and

Strathdon, by Kintore . 354

55 Aberdeen to Inverness, by

Huntly, Keith, Elgin,Forres,
and Nairn (Great ISTorth
OF Scotland Railway) . 358

55a Aberdeen to Banff, hy Inver-

amsay, Fyvie, and Turriff . 370

55b Perth to Elgin, by Craigel-
lachie and Rothes, and to
Banff by Craigellachie,
Dufftown, and Keith Junc-
tion (Rail) . . .374



VIU



Contents.



SECTION VI.

AVesterx Highlands axd Islands (Outer Hebrides) — Skte — Lewis
— Loch Maree — Loch Torridon — Glen Shiel — Loch Alsh and
Loch Duich.



ROUTE PAGE ROUTE

56 Oban to Portree in Skye, by

Arisaig, Eigg, Kyle Akin,
and Broadford (steam voy.) 381

57 Strome Ferry to Skye,

Broadford and Portree
(steamer), to Quiraing, Storr
Rock, and Dunvegan . 385

58 Balmacarra (Loch Alsh) to

Portree in Skye, by Kyle
Akin Ferry, Broadford, and
Sligachan (Excursion to
Coruisk) . . . .389

59 Portree to Stornoway and the

Outer Hebrides . . .393

60 Invergarry or Fort- Augustus

(Locli Oich) to Skye, by



Tomandoun, ^ GleJi Shiel,
Loch Duich {Falls of
Glomach), Loch Alsh, and
Strome Ferry , , . 397

61 Shiel House Inn to Skye, by
Mam Rattachan, Glcnclg,
and Kyle PJica Ferry . 400

62 Dingwall to Strome Ferry
and Skye, by Strathjjeffer,
Garve,Achnasheen, and Loch
Carron (Skye Railway) . 401

63 Achnasheen to Loch Maree
and Gairloch, LochTorridon,
Shieldag, and Applecross.
— Shieldag to Loch Carron 403



SECTION yii.

Inverness — Sutherland— Caithness — Ross— Cromarty— Assynt-
Lairg — Loch Inter — Dunrobin — Cape Wrath —



ROUTE

64 Inverness to Cromarty, by

Fortrose

65 Inverness to Golspie and

Helmsdale, by Beauly,
Dingioall, Tain, Bonar
Bridge, and Lairg (Rail) .

65a Beauly to Shiel House Inn
and Loch Duich, by the
Valley of Beauly, Kilmor-
ack, the Druim, Glen Can-
nich, Chisholm's Pass, Glen
Affrick, and the Pass of the
Bcallach of Kintail .

65b Bonar Bridge to Golspie, by
Dornoch ....

66 Dingwall, by Garve to Ulla-

pool and Poolewe



. 412



416



421



424



425



67 Lairg to Loch Inver and Du7'-

ness, by Oykel Bridge, Loch
Assynt, and Scourie .

68 Lairg to Durness, by Loch

Shin; Scourie to Loch In-
ver . . . .

69 Golspie to Thurso and Wick,

by Helmsdale .

70 Helmsdale to Wick, by the

Orel of Caithness

71 Wick to Thurso, by Huna

and John-o' -Groaf s House
71 A Lairg to Tongue

72 Thurso to Tmigue,hj Melvich

and Bettyhill

73 Tongue to Cajje Wrath, by

Durness and Snioo



SECTION VIII.

The Orkney and Shetland Islands.



ROUTE PAGE

74 The Orkneys, — Wick to
Kirkivall, Maeshow, Sten-
niss, Stromness, and Hoy . 446



76 The Shetlands, — Lertoick,
Mousa, Fetlar, etc. .



426



429

431

436

438
439

440

442



455



Index 459



GENEEAL INTEODUCTION.



-♦ —

PAGE



I. Travelling View of Scotland — Eailways, Steamers,
Coaches, Inns and Cookery, Posting and Hired Con-
veyances [9]

II. Antiquities [17]

III. Geology [21]

IV. Comparative Heights of Scotch Mountains . . . [30]
Y. Hints for Yachtsmen in the Hebrides and West Coast

OF Scotland [31]

YI. Skeleton Routes [38]

YII. Explanation of Gaelic Words and Highland Xames of

Places [48]



I. General Information for Travellers in Scotland.

Since the clays when Pennant made his slow but comprehensive
journey to the west coast and the Hebrides — when Dr. Johnson
travelled with ill-suppressed sneers and disgust to the Isle of Skye
— or when, in later days, the persevering Macculloch examined
every little inlet on that dangerous coast in the very frailest of con-
veyances — a perfect revolution has been effected in Scotland in
favour of the tourist, whether vehicular, equestrian, or pedestrian.
In place of the rugged fastnesses which guarded the romantic scenery
of the Highlands, we have, generally speaking, good roads and swift
conveyances on them. Even the once dreary solitudes of Suther-
land and Caithness are, for practical purposes, as well off for roads
as many an English county. At every point good Inns, sometimes
rising to the magnitude of palaces, have been erected for the tired
and thirsty tourist, while, where possible, railways and steamers
convey their patrons into the very heart of the mountains.

a. Railways have intersected pretty nigh all the lowland and coast
districts, and are now penetrating into the recesses of the Highlands
wherever there is the remotest chance of traffic, present or future.

Generally speaking, the railway service of Scotland is safely and

comfortably carried on, although, as compared with England, trains

are slower in speed and fewer in number. But on the main lines

from England there are at least one or two expresses daily, which

[Scotland.] h 1



[10] I. Travelling View : Railimys. Introd.

leave notliing to Le desired as regards rapidity by the tourist. The
eastern entry into the kingdom is of course by York, Newcastle, and
Berwick, via the Great Northern and North-Eastern lines. Carlisle
is the citadel by which access is gained on the west, and this is in
possession of the London and North-Western and Midland Com-
panies. All these companies offer great facilities for tourists, both
in price and accommodation, and these facilities are amply supple-
mented across the Border by the Scotch railway companies. From
Carlisle we have —

1. The Caledonian Pdy., which, originally a trunk-line between
Carlisle, Glasgow, and Edinburgh, has spread its nets so far as to
monopolise the traffic of half Scotland, particularly on the W. It
now embraces

a. The southern section, including main lines to Edinburgh and
Glasgow, with branches to Dumfries, Stranraer, and Portpatrick,
Peebles, Lanark, and Douglas. From the Motherwell Junction of
the Glasgow branch, a fresh access to that city is gained via Clydes-
dale, and there are also in the same district a great number of short
railways which scarcely affect the tomist, inasmuch as they are for
the accommodation of the ironworks and collieries. This same sec-
tion embraces lines from Glasgow to Greenock, Wemyss Bay, Lesma-
hagow, Hamilton, StrathaA^on, and Crofthead ; nor must we forget
a very important communication between Dumfries, Castle-Douglas,
Stranraer, and Portpatrick, being in fact one of the great routes
between Scotland and Ireland.

6. The central section of the Caledonian comprises the lines
between Greenhill Junction, Stirling, and Perth, with a short branch
to Denny, and another to Crieff ; also from Perth to Dundee, Dun-
dee to Newtyle, and Stirling to Callander.

c. In the northern section is the great trunk-line from Perth and
Dundee to Forfar and Aberdeen, with branches to Meigle, Arbroath,
Blairgowrie, Brechin, Montrose, and Bervie ; also a direct line
between Perth and Crieff.

d. The western section contains the Forth and Clyde Junction
Eailway (worked by the Caledonian) from Stirling to Balloch ; and
the line from Stirling to Callander, Lochearnhead, Killin, and
Tyndrum, which it is intended eventually to carry through to Oban,
by Loch Awe and Dalmally.

2. The Glasgov) and South-Western Rly. serves the country
between Carlisle and Glasgow, sending off branches to Castle-Douglas,
Kirkcudbright, Muirkirk, Newmilns, Ardrossan (for Arran), Ayr,
Dalmellington, and Girvan — in fact, it embraces all the district
from the S. to the W. coast.



Scotland. I. Travelling Fieiv : Railiccujs. [11]

3. The North British is fortunate in having two points d'appui,
viz. Carlisle and Newcastle. The first is known as the Waverley
Eoute, and connects Carlisle with Edinburgh via Hawick, sending off
branches to Gretna, Langholm, Kelso, Jedburgh, Selkirk. The
eastern section of the same company unites Berwick with Edinburgh,
with branches to Dunse and St. Buswells, North Berwick and Had-
dington. A line running up the Tweed Valley connects Berwick
with Coldstream and Kelso. The North British owns the line to
Peebles, Innerleithen, and Dolphinton, and has also become pos-
sessed of other railways, such as the Edinburgh and Glasgow, the
Stirling and Dunfermline, the Glasgow and Loch Lomond, the
Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee, together with a number of shorter
subsidiary branches, such as the Leven and East of Fife, and those to
Dunfermline, to Kinross, to Leslie, to St. Andrews, and by Stirling,
the Devon Valley, to Dollar and Rumbling Bridge, and Campsie
Valley, together with the lines to Milngavie, Queensferry, and Grange-
mouth. As far as the tourist is concerned he need not complain of
the want of railway accommodation in the south of Scotland.

4. One of the most charming and picturesque lines in the king-
dom is the Highland Rly., which, with grand energy and persever-
ance, runs through defiles, over torrents, and across mountains from
Perth to Dunkeld, Blair-Athole, and Inverness, thus placing the
tourist in the very heart of the scenery he wishes to explore. The
branches on this line are to Aberfeldy, leading to Loch Tay, and to
Burghead, Elgin, and Keith ; while the main trunk continues north-
ward from Inverness to Dingwall, Golspie, Helmsdale, Wick and
Thurso ; so that a traveller may literally journey by locomotives
from the Land's End to John-o'-Groat's House,

5. The wealthy and populous district to the N.E, of Scotland is
served by the Great North of Scotland Rly., which starts from Aber-
deen and runs to Forres, there joining the Highland Rly. to Inver-
ness. It embraces a good many branches, viz, , the Deeside (from
Aberdeen to Ballater), to Fraserburgh, to Peterhead, to Alford, to
Old Meldrum, to Turrifi' and Macdufi", to Banft' and Portsoy, to
Lossiemouth, and from I^eith to Craigellachie, whence an extension
runs up the Spey vajlley to join the Highland line at Boat of Garten.

A new access to the Isle of Skye has been opened by the Rail-
ivay from Dingwall on the E. coast to Strathcarron and Strome
Ferry, whence steamers ply to Portree in Skye daily.

B. Steamers communicate regularly and frequently with all the
principal Scotch ports. On the E. coast, between London, Newcastle,
Edinburgh (Leith and Granton), Dundee, Aberdeen, Invergordon, and
Wick ; on the W. coast, between Bristol, Swansea, Liverpool, and



[12] 1. Travelling Flew : Steamers. Scotland.

Glasgow. But these are seldom adapted for tourists, who wish to
get at the heart of their work at once, and they are moreover too
much devoted to traffic to be always comfortable. They are, how-
ever, well suited for the sportsman who has a large staff of ser-
vants, dogs, and indispensaVdes to forward to the moors. For the
metropolitan tourist who wishes to get to Deeside and the Gram-
pians with economy and fresh air, the steamer from London to
Aberdeen will suit very well, but he must be a good sailor to enjoy
it thoroughly, as the North Sea and the E. coast present very dif-
ferent conditions of water from the landlocked surface of the Cl}de.

The tourist on the W. coast, however, is obliged, if he wishes to
see it thoroughly, to confide himself to the tender mercies of the sea.
Fortunately for him the Messrs. Hutcheson have catered for his com-
fort in the most complete manner, and provided a fleet of steamers
exclusively for tourists, who can thus navigate the fiords and inlets of
the West Highlands with perfect ease and comfort. The lona is a
floating palace. She sails daily in the season down the Clyde, through
the Kyles of Bute, and up Loch Fyne to Ardrishaig. The passengers
are here transferred to the Crinan Canal boat, and after a short pas-
sage rejoin the steamer which takes them on to Oban. Connecting
steamers run daily between Oban, Ballachulish, Fort- William, Loch
Ness, Inverness, through the Caledonian Canal ; also excursion steam-
ers from Oban to Ballachulish (for Glencoe), and to Staft'a, Mull,
and lona. Twice a week, at least, the more distant islands of Lewis
and Harris are visited, via Skye and the Hebrides, calling at the
various little ports on the west coast ; and by this bi-weekly method
communication is regularly kept up between Glasgow, the Hebrides,
and the N.W. coast. These deep-Sea steamers, it must be admitted,
are not so quick or so comfortable as the special passenger steamers
to Inverness, as they are partly adapted for the purposes of
trafiic, particularly in wool and cattle. Nevertheless, the com-
parative slowness of the vessels is amply counterbalanced by the
beauty of the scenery, the bustle at the difl'erent landing-places, and
the many varieties of character which one meets with. It is only
justice to add that in the whole of the Messrs. Hutcheson's fleet the
traveller will meet, at the hands of the captains and officers, the ut-
most civility and attention ; the commissariat is also well attended
to. Other steamers run between Glasgow and the Western Isles, but
are more specially arranged with a view to traffic.

The tourist down the Clyde may pick and choose at the Broomie-
law which watering-place he will patronise, and he will be sure to
find a boat waiting fur him. Greenock, Helensburgh, Gareloch, Loch-
goilhead, Arrochar, Loch Long, Gourock, Dunoon, Kirn, Kilcreggan,



Scotland. I. Travelling View: Coaches. [13]

Kilmun, Inellan, Toward, Rothesay, Tighnabruich, Colintraive, In-
veraray, Ardrisbaig, Tarbert, Campbeltown, Largs, Millport, Weniyss
Bay, and Arran, are all daily visited, more or less often, the last-named
island being also served by a twice-a-day steamer from Ardrossan.

On the Forth, Stirling is visited daily from Leitli or Granton.
Ferry steamers ply several times a day between Granton and Burnt-
island, and at Queensferry. The inland lakes, such as Loch Lomond,
Loch Katrine, and Loch Awe, are also made accessible by steamers
running in connection with the railway companies and the coaches,
for which circular excursion tickets are granted, so as to save the
trouble of re-booking.

c. Coaches abound in the tourist districts, fdling up the gap be-
tween railways and steamers. The following are the service routes
of coaches : —

1. Between Campbeltown and Tarbert.

2. Stranraer and Girvan.

3. Ardrishaig and Oban, with a branch coach to Ford for Loch

Awe and the steamers.

4. Oban to Inveraray and Tarbert (Loch Lomond).

5. Oban and Pass of Brander, there to meet the steamer for

Cladich, and the coach from Cladich to Inveraray.

6. Edinburgh to Dunfermline, by Queensferry.

7. Oban. to Tyndrum and head of Loch Lomond.

8. Head of Loch Lomond to Inverness, Tyndrum, Glencoe,



Online LibraryJohn Murray (Firm)Handbook for travellers in Scotland → online text (page 1 of 73)