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Loch of the Lowes. Between these
two a road passes to Tibhy ShieWs
Inn, on the S. side of the water, near
which stands the Monument to Hogg.
The house was brought into notice
by Hogg and Wilson, who frequented
it for the whisky and the fishing.
Trout, perch, and jack abound in
the lake. It is the cradle of the
stream of the Yarrow, Here the
passengers may dine on homely but
substantial fare. The pedestrian
may return to Selkirk by the vale
of the Ettrick, Avhich is parallel to
that of the Yarrow. Others may
pursue the journey by the Moffat
coach, which is arranged so as to
meet the one from Selkirk. Leaving
St. Mary's Loch [r. Rodona House),
the coach ascends the road by the
side of the Loch of the Lowes.

26 m. Birkhill Inn. This district,
from its solitude, was much used as
a hiding-place by the Covenanters,
and many of the points are named
from that fact. The hill opposite is
still called the " Watch Hill ; " and
not far off, a waterfall, with a cave
overhanging it, goes by the name of
Dobs Linn. It was said that Halbert
Dobson and David Dun, two Cove-
nanters, were worried by the Devil
when hiding here, and that one
attacked him with the Bible, whilst
the other tumbled him over into the
water. Near this the Yarrow takes
its rise. From Birkhill there is a
steeply rugged jjath of

2 m. leading up to Loch Skene,
a wild and solitary lake, situated
about 1200 ft. above the level of the
sea, under the heights of Loch Craig
Head, 2625. Robert Chambers first
announced, 1845, that this remark-
able tarn has been produced by the
moraine of a glacier which once
filled the deep recess in the moun-
tains. From it issues the cataract
of the Grey Mare's Tale, one of the
highest cascades in Scotland, which



slides and tumbles down a deep gash
in the hillside more than 200 ft.
This stream is the outlet of the
Moffat Water from " the dark Loch
Skene," —

" Where deep, deep do-vvn, and far within.
Toils with tlie rocks the roaring linn ;
Then issuing forth one foaming wave.
And wheeling round the Giant's Grave,
White as the snowy charger's tail.
Drives down tlie pass of Moffatdale."

Marmion, Introd. to Canto ii.

The road from Moffat is carried
near to the foot of the Falls, a path
leading up to them along the edge of
the gully, a truly romantic scene.

The Giant's Grave is a long tu-
mulus, between the road and the foot
of the cataract. The whole of Mof-
fatdale lies upon the Lower Silurian
System, and in some of the black
shales the searcher will find abun-
dant remains of graptolites.

The road here crosses the boundary
and enters Dumfriesshire.

30 m. rt. is SadcUeyoke Hill, so
called from the -narrowness of its
ridge, across which it is said a per-
son may sit astride. On left is Bods-
beck farmhouse, the scene of one of
Hogg's tales. A pathway leads over
the hill to the road up the vale of
Ettrick, which stops short at the
watershed or count}^ boundary. The
mountain on right, round whose base
the road winds, is HartfcU, 2651 ft.,
one of the loftiest mountains in
Dumfriesshire, which can be seen to
great advantage from this point.
Hartfell, White Comb, and Broad
Law, are the three great ranges of
this district, in all of which the
geologist will find glacier markings.
The road passes through a beautiful
piece of wood lying on its lower
slope. In this stands the house of
Craigieburn, which figures in one of
Burns' sonnets : —

" Sweet fa's the eve on Craigebum,
And blythe awakes the morrow ;
But a' the pride o' spring's return
Can yield me nought but sorrow."



S. Scotland. Route 6. — Galashiels to Moffat..



34: m. Moffat {Inns: Annandale
Arms ; Buccleuch Arms ; Star) is a
small town, 2 m. from Beattock
Stat, of the rly. from Edinburgh to
Dumfries and Carlisle (see Ete. 5),
close to the river Annan. In sum-
mer it is quite a fashionable water-
ing-place, large numbers of families
taking up their residence in the
numerous lodgings with which the
town is provided. Many come for
the purpose of drinking the waters.
The well is situated about 1^ m. from
the town, approached by a gentle rise
the whole way ; and the exercise of
walking up to the well and home
again, at an early hour, is probably
as beneficial as drinking the water.
Its taste is that of stale eggs beaten
up with lucifer matches, although it
is not so disagreeable as the stronger
kinds of water at Harrogate. In
the town is a Baih-hoiise supplied
with water from the same source,
also Eeading-rooms, etc. There is
an Einscopal GluqM.

There is some fishing in the Annan,
IMoflfat, and other streams ; the trout
chiefly very small.

The neighbourhood of Moffat
abounds in pretty walks, viz., to

a. Gallows Hill, rising close above
the town, and crowned with fir
woods, and intersected with paths
showing pleasing views ; — to Hartfell
Spa, 4 m. to the N., on the banks of
the Auchencat Burn, a small stream
that flows into the Annan Water.
This excursion may be prolonged to
the summit of Hartfell.

h. The Belcl Craig is a pretty glen,
in which a small linn is precipitated
over a steep bare rock. This is to
the left of the Carlisle road, between
Beattock and Wamphray Stations.

c. The DeviVs Beef Tub, a semi-
circular green hollow surrounded by
steep hills, is 5 m. to the IST. of
Moffat, by the new Edinburgh road,
one of Telford's great engineering
works, which skirts it on the right,
rising to a height of 1300 ft. above the



sea-level. This semicircular hollow
is the head of the valley of the
Annan, and is so profound and ob-
scure as to have formed, in old times,
an excellent hiding-place for stolen
cattle ; hence called the DeviVs (some-
times the "Douglases") ^ce/ Tub.
A rebel named Maclaren, in 1746,
escaped from his guard, who were
conveying him by the road to jail, by
rolling head over heels into the
Tub, which was at that time full of
mist. This incident figures in the
novel of " Redgauntlet," where, how-
ever, a fictitious Laird of Summer-
trees is introduced as tlie hero. Near
here the Annan and the Tweed rise
on opposite sides of the hill, the for-
mer flowing S., and the Tweed N.,
by Broughton to Peebles. In its
course through the parish of Tweeds-
niuir the scenery is very romantic,
many wild and lonely burns, such as
Talla, Menzion, and others, helping
to swell the infant stream. The
Edinburgh road keeps parallel with
it as far as Broughton (Rte. 5a),
passing, about half way, the Crook
Inn, a celebrated angling hostelry.

A lower road from j\Ioffat leads
all the way by the side of the Annan
into the Beef Tub itself.

d. The most interesting excursion,
however, is to the Grey Mare's Tail,
10 m., and St. Mary's Loch, 15 m.
(coach in summer), on the way to
Selkirk, described in this Route 6.

Distances — Selkirk, 34 m. ; to
Grey Mare's Tail, 10 ; St. Mary's
Loch, 15 ; Tibby Shiels's Inn, 15 ;
Devil's' Beef Tub, 5 ; Birkhill, 11 ;
Loch Skene, 13 ; Dumfries, 21 ; Edin-
burgh, 61 m. ; Glasgow, 65 m.
Beattock Stat, of rail. Carlisle to
Glasgow, 2 m. (omnibus to meet
the trains). Between that stat. and
Moffat is Lochhouse Tower, a square
peel belonging to the Johnstones of
Corehead.



80



Route 7 . — Selkirk to Moffat.



Sect. I.



EOUTE 7.

Selkirk to Moffat by the Ettrick
Valley.

This road ends abruptly on the
frontier of Selkirkshire, at the foot
of the hills forming the watershed.
In order to pursue his journey the
traveller must either cross the hills
on foot to the road down Moffat-
dale, at Bodsbeck, or he may drive
by the road from the Ettrick to St.
Mary's Loch, and join the Moffat
road at Tibbie Shiels's Inn.

The road keeps the right bank of
the Ettrick Water, passing Haining,
the seat of Mrs. Pringle-Douglas,
and overlooking Philiphaugh and its
battle-field (Ete. 6). The Ettrick
and the Yarrow unite at a place
called Carelhaugh, corrupted into
Carterhaugh, the scene of Hogg's
"Pilgrims of the Sea," and of the
ballad " Tamlane," in the " Border
Minstrelsy."

Beyond is Bowhill, a seat of the
Duke of Buccleuch (Rte. 6).

4 m. left, perched on the top of a
steep bank, overlooking the river, is
Oakicood Tower, supposed to have
been the scene where the
" Three lords were birling at the wine,"

in the "dowie dens of Yarrow." It
was at one time inhabited by Michael
Scott, the wizard.

At the little village of Ettrick
Bridge, before arriving at which the
traveller passes Kirkhope Tower, the
road crosses the river ; one, on the
left, being given off to the valley of
the Ale AVater and Hawick, and soon
after, on right, another branches to
the Yarrow.

The country is now very wild,
and the lovely hills and valleys afford
plenty of scenery for fairy tales, such
as " Kilmeny," and others.

12 m., Deloraine, a name familiar
to all readers of the " Lay of the



Last Minstrel, " It gave the title of
earl to Henry Scott, third son of the
Duke of Monmouth, but the peerage
is now extinct.

15 m., at Tushielaw, where is an
inn, a good centre for anglers. Other
roads branch away to the Yarrow,
and one on left to the Borthwick
Water. TusMelaio Castle stands on
a ledge of the hill that overlooks
the meeting of the Eankleburn and
Ettrick. It is a singular situation,
and seems to have been chosen fof
the extensive prospect of the valley
which it commands both E. and W.
It was the finest castle in this neigh'
bourhood, and its last inhabitant
was Adam Scott, who Avas known in
his own country as the " King of
the Border," and everywhere else as
the " King of Thieves." James V.,
having executed Cockburn of Hen-
derland, marched across by this road
(still called the King's road) to
Tushielaw, stormed and plundered
the castle, hanged Scott on an elm ^i
(still shown in the courtyard), and — -*
carried his head to Edinburgh. The
father of the " Flower of Yarrow"
was Laird of Tushielaw. The Kankle-
burn runs past a place called Buc-
cleuch, an old property of the Scotts,
whence they have taken their title.

At 17 m. a road on left is given off
to Tibby Shiels's Inn (Ete. 6), which
must be followed if the traveller is
driving. A little farther on are the
ruins of Thii'lstane Castle, and the
modern house of Lord Kapier. TJdrl-
staiie Castle is memorable as the resi-
dence of John Scott, who, when the
Scottish nobility, in 1542, refused
to support James V. in an iuA'asion
of England, offered with his retinue
to follow the king whithersoever he
chose to go. James rewarded his
loyalty by granting him as a crest a
bunch of spears, with the motto,
" Ready, aye ready." On the other
side of the river is the old tower of
Gamescleuch. At the farm of Ettrick



Lanarkshire.



Carlisle to Glasgoiv.



81



House, 20^ m., was born James
Hogg, the Ettrick Shepherd, and a
headstone records his memory in the
chm-chyard, although he was buried
at Altrive, in the Vale of Yarrow,
1835.

The whole of this district was at
one time densely covered with tim-
ber, but the only remains of Ettrick
Forest is a quantity of stunted wood
between Cracra Bank and the slopes
at the mouth of Rankleburn.

•' Ettrick Forest is a fair forest.
In it grows many a seemly tree ;
The hart, the hind, the doe, the roe,
And of all wild beasts great plentie."

The Bach river, which joins the
Ettrick immediately below Lochy
Law, has been haunted from time
immemorial both by fairies and the
ghost of a wandering minstrel who
was cruelly murdered there, and who
sleeps in a lone grave at a small
distance from the ford. The road
now begins to ascend more rapidly,
and at last, on reaching the edge of
the county of Selkirk, at the water-
shed, ends abruptly, A track or
footpath now conducts the pedestrian
down the other side of the hill to the
farm oi Bodsheck, the haunt of Hogg's
"brownie," 28 m., where the Motfat
Water is crossed, and joins the road
from Yarrow to
Moffat (Rte. 6).



ROUTE 8.

Carlisle'to Glasgow, by Carstairs
Junction, Motherwell, Coat-
bridge, Gartsberrie, and tbe
Iron District.

The Railway from Carlisle to Car-
stairs Junct. is described in Route 5.

On quitting Carstairs the river
Mouse is crossed, which lower down
enters the Clyde throngh the chasm
called Cartland Crags.

3 m, Cleghorn Junct. Stat. Cleg-



horn, seat of A. E. Lockhart, Esq.,
stands on the Mouse, and the park
includes a Roman camp.



[Bj'aiich Pudhcay to Lanark and
Douglas.

2 m. Lanark Stat, (see Rte. 8a),
where the Falls of Clyde, Cartland
Crags, etc., are described ; also the
road up to its beautiful valley, froin
Hamilton, nothing of which is visi-
ble from the rly.

From Lanark the rly. crosses the
Clyde, and runs due S. by Ponfeigh
to Sandilands, and

6. m. Douglas Stat, a rather quaint
and irregular little town (Pop. 2624),
Avith a partially ruined Church of
St. Bride, of the Pointed Transition
style. In the choir, which is the only
part in preservation, may be seen "the
very extraordinary Monuments of
the house of Douglas, one of the most
heroic and powerful families in the
annals of Scotland. That works of
sculpture, equal to any of the 14th
century in Westminster Abbey (for
such they certainly were, though
much mutilated by Cromwell's sol-
dieiy), should be found in so remote
an inland place, attests strikingly
the boundless resources of those
haughty lords, ' whose coronet, ' as
Scott says, 'so often counterpoised
the crown.'

"The effigy of the best friend of
Bruce is among the number, and re-
presents him cross-legged, as having
fallen in battle with the Saracen
when on the way to Jemsalem with

the heart of his king Sir

Walter Scott examined by torchlight
these silent witnesses of past great-
ness. It was a strange and melan-
choly scene, and its recollection
prompted some passages in ' Castle
Dangerous.' ....

"The appearance of the village,
too, is most truly transferred to the
novel ; and I may say the same of



Boute 8. — Carlisle to Glasgow.



Sect. L



the surrounding landscape. We de-
scended into a sort of crypt, in which
the Douglasses were buried until
about a century ago, when there was
room for no more ; the leaden coffins
around the wall being piled on each
other until the lower ones had been
pressed flat as sheets of pasteboard,
while the floor itself was entirely
pared ^^•ith others of comparatively
modern date, on which coronets and
inscriptions might still be traced.
Here the silver case that once held
the noble heart of the good Lord
James himself is still pointed out.
It is in the form of a heart, which,
in memory of his glorious mission
and fate, occupies ever since the chief
place in the blazon of his posterity : —

" ' The bloody heart blazed in the van,
Announcing Douglas' dreaded name.' "
— Locklmrfs Life of Scott.

A little to the ^ST. of the town is
Douglas Castle (Earl of Home), a
modern though uninhabited house,
on the banks of the Douglas Water.
It is a fragment of a design of which
not one-third part was carried out.
" Of the redoubted Castle itself there
remains but a small detached frag-
ment, covered with ixy, close to the
present mansion ; but Scott hung over
it long, or rather sat beside it, draw-
ing outlines on the tuif, and arrang-
ing in his fancy the sweep of the old
precincts.

"Before the subjacent and sur-
rounding lake and morass, the posi-
tion must indeed have been the
perfect model of solitary strength."
Sir Walter Scott describes it in his
tale of "Castle Dangerous," and re-
visited the spot while writing that
novel, 1831.]

8 m. Braidioood Stat., here are
limestone quarries. A little to the
right is Lee House (Sir Simon Lock-
hart, Bart.), a castellated mansion,
renovated by Gillespie Graham, It
contains interesting portraits, Claver-
house and Cromwell, under whom



served Sir William Lockhart, emi-
nent as diplomatist and general, who
was a match foe Cardinal Richelieu,
and took Dunkirk from Spain and
France, Here is kept the famous
Lee Penny, upon which the story of
the " Talisman " is founded, and
which was brought from the East
by Sir Simon Lockhart in the time
of Eobert the Bruce. " The water
in which it is dipped operates as a
styjitic, as a febrifuge, and possesses
several other properties as a medici-
nal talisman. Of late its powers
have been chiefly restricted to the
cure of persons bitten by mad dogs ;
and as the illness in such cases
frequently arises from imagination,
there can be no reason for doubting
that water which has been poured on
the Lee Penny furnishes a congenial
cure." — Introduction to "Talis-
man." In reality, the Lee Penny is
a groat of the time (probably of Ed-
ward III.) in which is set a corne-
lian or sard stone, constituting the
real Talisman. The use of it was
authorised and confirmed by a synod
of the Kirk of Scotland, while con-
demning all other amulets. In the
Park is the Pease Tree, a very aged
oak,

2>\ m. left of Braidwood, up the
vale of the Nethan, on the other side
the Clyde, is Craignethan, the origi-
nal of " Tillietudlem Castle," in
"Old Mortality" (see Rte. 8a),

Crossing the gorge called Jock's
Gill we reach

10 m, Carlul-e Stat. 2 m. W., in
a charming position, overlooking the
Clyde valley, is Milton Lockhart,
l^ot far off" is Mauldslie Castle (seat
of James Hozier, Esq.)

The tourist will soon perceive by
the altered character of the scenery,
which from this to Glasgow is any-
thing but inviting, that he has
reached the great manufacturing
district of the Lanarkshire coalfield,
and that the charming braes and
woods of the Clyde have given place



S. Scotland. Route 8a. — Coathidge ; Glasgow to Lanark. 83



to monotonous and dark outlines,
the foregrounds of which are occu-
pied by blazing furnaces and dingy-
looking collieries.

13| m. OvERTOWX JuxcT, (i.e.
Oretown). 1 m. on the left bank of
the Clyde is the village of Dalserf.
At Overtown is a junction with the
Bathgate branch of the Monkland
Eailway.

14| m. TFishaw Stat. A little to
the right of the town are the Colt-
ness Ironworks ; the town is partly
undermined by coalpits. Wishaio
House (late Lord Belhaven) in a park
of great beauty. Coltness H. (H.
Houldsworth, Esq.) ; l-^ m. S. is
Cavihusncthaii House (J. S. Lock-
hart, Esq).

17i m. Motherwell Junct.,
where the Clydesdale branch rly. is
given off to Glasgow, through Cam-
buslang and Rutherglen (Ete.SA), the
main line keeping a more northerly
direction. Motherwell is a town of
modern rise and sudden prosperity —
from the mineral wealth around it.
It possesses several churches {Lin :
Royal H). Omnibus to Hamilton,
(2m.,5ccRte. 8a.) On left is the vil-
lage of Dalzell(pron. Dee'el), andDa/-
ziel House (J. G. E. Hamilton, Esq.),
standing on a small tributary of the
Clyde. The present house is a bar-
onial pile, retaining the former man-
sion and keep, 700 years old. The
Gardens have been improved from
suggestions of Mr. Ruskin.

Passing the stations of Holytoicn
and Whifflet, near which are the
Calder Ironworks, the train reaches

23 m. Coatbridge Junct. Stat., a
mining town, the centre of a group
of blazing Iron Furnaces, surrounded
by a network of rlys. The handsome
Gothic Cliurch, with octagon spire,
built by J. Baird, Esq., the iron-
master, 1874. Near this are the
Paraffin oil distilleries of Young and
Co. Here the main line of the Monk-



land system of rlys. to Bathgate
and Bo'ness is given oif. The large
ironworks of Dundyvan, Langloan,
and others, are passed in succession
nearly up to doors of Glasgow. It is
a desolate, black district — of smoke,
coal, and ashes, — treeless, sunless,
the verdure of nature's surface scari-
fied and loaded with rubbish heaps.
Yet it deserves to be seen as a climax
of human industry.

24 m. Gartsherrie Junct. The
Caledonian Rly. sends oif a line N.
to Greenliill Junction and Stirling,
forming the link for travellers from
the S. to Perth, Dundee, and Inver-
ness (Rte. 18).

At Gartsherrie are the celebrated
ironworks and furnaces belonging to
the Bairds, the iron-kings of Scot-
land, where one of the finest brands
of pig-iron is made. Thence past
Gartcosh and GarnkirJc, and Stepps,
to

31 m. Glasgow Terminus, Buch-
anan-street Stat. (Rte. 16).



ROUTE 8a.

Glasgow to BothweU, Hamilton,
and Lanark and Falls of the
Clyde.

There are 2 rlys. to Hamilton (a)
by Blantyre (b) by Uddingstone,
both starting from S. side of Clyde
Stat, in Glasgow, and bifurcating at
Cambuslang.

It matters little by what course the
traveller finds his way from Glasgow
to Hamilton, but the beauties of the
Upper Clyde cannot be seen from
the railway, and the traveller is re-
commended to take to the high road
from Bothwell or Hamilton to
Lanark.

Through a region of coals an
smoke, where tall chimneys supy>ly
the place of trees, passing left, at the



84



Route 8a. — Blantyre ; Bothivell Castle. Sect. I.



very outskirts of Glasgow, Dixon's
Iron Furnaces, the rly. reaches

24 m. , Ruthcrglcn or Rugglen Stat.
The top-heavy tower of the Town-
hall is conspicuous. Rugglen was a
town before Glasgow, hut has now
fallen to be only one of its suburbs.
May 29, 1679, a body of 86 armed
covenanters rode into the town, and
fixed on the cross a seditious "De-
claration," which led to the skirmish
of Drumclog, and the battle of Both-
well Brig. Long Calderwood, Ig m.
N., was the birthplace of Drs. John
and William Hunter, physicians and
anatomists. Eight, 3 m., near Pol-
lockshaws, is Langsidey scene of the
battle (see Index). Left are the Fur-
naces of the Clyde Ironworks.

Here the railway bifurcates. One
line continues along high ground on
left of Clj'de, but out of sight of
it, to

8 m., Blantyre Stat., a workman's
village, dependent on large cotton
mills and die-works established here
since the 18th centy. The illustrious
traveller and missionary, David
Livingstone, was born here 1815,
and commenced life, as he tells us
himself, " as a piecer in Mr. Mon-
teith's works. " f m. down the Clyde
a very small fragment hangs on the
edge of the bank, of the Priory of
Blant3Te, founded by Alexander II.

From Blantyre Stat. Bothwell may
be reached in about a mile, crossing
the Clyde by the suspension bridge
(see below).

The rly. continues to

10 m. Hamilton Stat., about 1 m.
from the town. Omnibus thither
(see below).



The Motherwell Ely., leaving
Cambuslang a little beyond

Neicton Stat. (Ironworks), crosses
Clyde on a viaduct commanding fine
view up and down the river, specially
of Bothwell Castle, etc.



Uddingston Stat., on the high road
from Bothwell, 1 m., and from
Hamilton, 4 m., is almost entirely
composed of 2 lines of villas, which
extend to

Bothwell, more than a mile, and
constitute that neat village, a sort of
rural suburb of Glasgow, on a height
above the Clyde. Inn : The Clyde
Hotel ; open situation in a garden,
near the Parish Church, a red stone
edifice, with tall tower, chiefly mo-
dern, but including part of an ancient
church, deserving the architect's
notice for its peculiar stone barrel-
vault and roof without timber. It
was built in 1398 by Archibald the
Grim, Earl of Douglas, ** that stal-
wart knight whom Froissart saw
wielding a sword 2 ells long, scarce
any one else could raise from the
gi'ound, dealing such blows that
wherever he reached he overthrew."
In this ch. his daughter was married
to David, Duke of Rothesa}^, heir-
apparent to the throne, Avho was
afterwards starved to death in Falk-
land Palace.

The manse of Bothwell was the
birthplace of Joanna Baillie the
poetess, 11th Sept. 1762.

The road from Bothwell to Hamil-
ton passes the gates of Bothwell
Castle (Earl of Home). In the midst
of beautiful woods and grounds
stretching down to the Clyde, on
whose lofty right bank rise the red
jiicturesque ruins of the old Castle. >,

Bothivell Castle (Earl of Home) ty
looks statelily down upon the Clyde. ^
There is admission on Tuesdays and
Fridays, from 11 to 4. The castle
has a grand and imposing front of
two round towers, connected by a
lofty and massive curtain of red,
sandstone. It is an admirable speci-
men of the baronial fortress. It has
the style and appearance of an
Edwardian Castle, and was probably
built by the English, but was taken
from them 1337. Besides its front,
which owes its preservation to the
thickness of its walls, there is on the



S. Scotland. PiOide 8a. — Bothioell Brig ; Hamilton.



So



S.E. side the chapel. Tlie castle
belonged originally to the ]\Inrrays,
and was inhabited by Sir William
AYallace during the time of his
governorship. Upon the subjugation
of Scotland it was given by Edward
I. to Aylmer de X^alence, Earl of



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