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berry Arras), a Pari, borough, and
once a place of importance, in a
dreary situation, surrounded by
round-backed hills, A little to the
S, of the town is the ruin of its
castle — one of the strongholds of the
S.W, of Scotland. Near it is a Moot
hill. It has 1324 inhab., part em-
ployed in weaving wool and cotton,
and part in the mines of glance coal.
A party of armed Covenanters in
1680 attached to the town-cross a
Declaration renouncing allegiance to
the Stuarts, and declaring war against
them.

Nearly 2 m. again to the S. are
remains of an earthwork running
parallel with the Nith, and called
the DcviVs Dyke. From Sanquhar
an excursion may be made to Wan-
lockhead and Leadhills, 8 m., and
thence to Elvanfoot (Rte. 5).

64 m. Kirlccomiell Stat. The same
earthwork is to be traced to the S. of



Ayr.



Route 9. — Atjt fFafer ; Mauchline.



99



this station. As the rly. approaches
the source of the ISTith the scenery
becomes more wild and dreary, al-
though relieved by rather lofty
ranges, rising on either side to the
height of 1500 or 2000 feet.

71 m. New Cumnock Stat, is situ-
ated at the confluence of the ISTith
with the Afton, the traveller bids
adieu to the Nith, and enters the
boundaries of the Ayrshire coalfield.
2 m. E. is Mansfield, the seat of Sir
J. Stuart Menteith, Bart.

Soon after passing New Cumnock
the watershed is ci'ossed, and the rly.
descends the valley of the Lugar to

764 Old Cumnock Junct. Stat.,
prettily situated at the confluence of
the Lugar and the Glaisnock.

Both Old and New Cumnock had
formerly a reputation for the manu-
facture of snufl"- boxes. 14 m. left is
Dumfries House, a seat of the Mar-
quis of Bute, in an estate of 43,734
acres ; and about 2 m. to the rt. are
the Lugar ironworks, to which there
is a branch rly. from

784^ m. AuGHixLECK Junct. Stat.
(pronounced Affleck). 3 m. W. is
Auchinlcck House, residence of the
family of which Boswell, the friend
and companion of Johnson, was a
member. His father, a Judge of
Session, resided here under the title
of Lord Auchinleck, and was visited
by Johnson, who praised the sullen
dignity of the old castle. James
Boswell, Johnson's biographer, who
alone of his family has made the
name distinguished, is buried here.

[Hence a branch of 10 m. runs E.
to Muirkirk, a small town entirely
dependent on the neighbouring iron-
works and collieries. It passes, 3
m., Lugar ironworks, situated on
the N. bank of the Lugar, which is
extremely picturesque here. To the
N. of Lugar is Aird's Moss — a wild,
dreary swamp, marked by scattered
pits and ironstone mines, but also
known as the scene of a skirmish



between the Eoyalists and Covenant-
ers, in which Richard Cameron, their
leader, was slain, 1680, "leaving his
name to a religious sect and a re-
nowned regiment in the British
army." — Burton. An obelisk at the
E. extremity commemorates the
event.

At Muirkirk, 10 m., there are 3
furnaces, belonging, with those at
Lugar, to the Bairds. From hence
a road runs E. through the hills
between Ayrshire and Lanarkshire,
of which the Cairn-table, 1942 ft.,
is the highest point, to Douglas
(Rte. 8).]

Before reaching Mauchline, the
line crosses the Ayr Water by a
magnificent viaduct of a single arch
(Ballochmyle Bridge). When seen
from the river, 200 ft. below, the
eff'ect of its extreme lightness and
great span is singularly impressive
and pleasing. On the banks of the
river, 14 m. left, is Barskimming,
the seat of Sir T. M. jMiller ; and
on right is the village of Catrine, with
Catrine House, once the residence
of Prof. Dugald Stewart and his
father ; and Ballochmyle House (Col.
Alexander). This is the scene of
Burns's two sonnets, " The Braes of
Ballochmyle," commencing — ■

" The Catrine woods were yellow seen,
The flowers decay'd on Catrine lee,"

^\Titten to express the sorrow of Miss
Whiteford when her father, Sir John
Whiteford, was obliged to part with
the old family place ; and the *' Lass
of Ballochmyle" in honour of Miss
Alexander, whose father purchased
the property. The park is very
picturesque, the ground sloping
rather abruptly to the Ayr, and
being profusely shaded with beech
and other forest trees. A little
higher up is the village and castle
of Sorn, an old baronial seat of the
Earls of Loudon and Winton, now
of Graham Somervell, Esq.

83 m. Mauchline {Inn : Loudon



100



Route 9. — Carlisle to Glasgow ; Kilmarnock Sect. I.



Arms), Pop. 1600, on a commanding
height, well known as the place Avhere
Burns spent his time when nominally
attached to his mother's and brother's
farm at Mossgicl, which lies 1 h m, to
the N . The church, the main feature
in the town, is a heavy Gothic build-
ing, very ditferent from that which
stood in its place at the end of the
last century. The churchyard is the
scene of " the Holy Fair." Opposite
to it is the cottage of Ann Gibson,
better known as " Poosie Nansie," in
whose kitchen the "Jolly Beggars"

" held the splore
To drink their orra duddies."

Next house to this, but separated by
a lane, was the Whiteford Arms Inn.
It now bears the sign of the Cross
Keys, but has ceased to be a public-
house. One John Dove was land-
lord of it in Burns's time, and upon
him the poet wrote the epitaph
beginning —

" Here lies Johnnie Pigeon."
A little way up the lane lived Jean
Armour before she was publicly ac-
knowledged as Burns's wife. On the
other side of the ch.-yd. is " Nanse
Tinnock's," and close by, between
the ch.-yd. and the remains of Old
Mauchline Castle, was Gavin Hamil-
ton's house, in which Burns was
married. There is nothing at Moss-
giel to identify it with the poet's re-
sidence, which lasted for a period of
3 years. The farm consisted of 112
acres, and was worked conjointly by
the whole family ; but the poet's
inattention and grave offences made
the place too hot to hold him, and
he was about to proceed to the W.
Indies, when the reputation which a
hastily published edition of his
poems had raised, and the ad%dce of
his friends, induced him to push his
fortune in Edinburgh. Mauchline is
well known for its manufacture of
wood ware, snuff-boxes, etc., painted
with tartan and other patterns.

90 1 m. at Hurlford Junct., which
is on the banks of the Irvine, a



branch is given off on right to K'ew-
milns, passing 4 m. Galston, de-
pendent principally on weaving. A
little to the N. is Loudon Cctstle, an
old castle with an ugly modern front,
purchased in 1868 for £.300,000 from
the Marquis of Hastings by Lord
Bute. The grounds are charming,
and there is a pleasant walk through
them from Galston to (6 m.) New-
mibis, a small manufacturing town,
noted for its fine muslins. 4 m. to
the E. of ]S^e^vmilns, on the Strath-
avon road, is Loudon Hill, where, in
1307, Bruce defeated the Earl of
Pembroke, and laid the foundation
of his ultimate success. On the farm
oi Drumelog, 2 m. E. of Loudon Hill,
was fought another battle, Sunday,
June 1, 1679, when John Graham of
Claverhouse, with a troop of life-
guards and some dragoons, marching
to disperse an armed Conventicle,
was met and charged by 200 fighting
men, commanded by Hackston of
Ptathillet, Balfour of Burley, and
others, all experienced officers, and
was signally routed by them. 36 of
the soldiers were left dead on the
field: only 3 Covenanters being slain.
A monument now crowns the hill,
and a commemorative service is
annually held here. Around it lime-
works have sprung up, and a coal-
mine is opened.]

92i m. KUmarnoch {Inns : George ;
Black Bull), a Pari, borough, and
place of considerable importance in
the manufacturing world (pop.
22,963), producing carpets, shawls,
bonnets, boots, and (prior to the in-
troduction of the hat) the " Kilmar-
nock cowl." It stands on a small
stream of the same name that falls
into the Irvine. The older part of
the town is narrow and irregularly
built. In the ch. -yd. of the Laigh
Parish Kirk is an epitaph, by Burns,
over " Tam Samson."

" Tam Samson's -weel-worn clay here lies.
Ye canting zealots spare hira !
If honest worth in heaven rise,
Ye' 11 mend or ye win near him."



Aye.



Route 10. — Dumfries to Poiipatrich.



101



At the cross, in King-street, is a
statue of Sir Jas. Shaw, a native of
this town, and Lord Mayor of liOndon
in 1806.

From the press of this town Burns's
poems first issued ; and among its
inhabitants were included many of
his most generous friends.

Distances. — Troon, 9 ni. ; Ayr,
15| ; Mauchline, 9 ; Eowallan Castle,

H.

[There is a pretty walk up the
Fenwick Water to Dean Castle, 1
m., the ancient fort of the Boyds,
Barons and Earls of Kilmarnock, the
last of whom was beheaded in 1746.
The castle was destroyed by fire 11
years before, in 1735. 2 m. is
the ruined castle of Craufordland,
and 4 m. is Fenwick village, the
ch.-yd. of which place contains a
number of Covenanters' tombs.

2 m. to the N. of Kilmarnock is
Kilmaurs, an old burgh formerly
belonging to the Earls of Glencairn.
In the burial-place of the family, near
the church, is the monument of the
9th Earl, Chancellor of Scotland
temp. Charles II. Elephant remains
have been found here in beds below
the boulder clay. About 1 m. far-
ther is Rowallaii Castle, once the
baronial residence of the Mures of
Eowallan, a member of which family,
Elizabeth Miire, was wife of King
Robert II. of Scotland. Sir William
Mure, who flourished in the 17th
centy., was an author of no mean
repute, and, amongst other works,
wrote the history of his family. The
castle is a place of great antiquity,
the more modern portions of which
were built in 1560. It is charm-
ingly situated, but hidden from view
by ^plantations. ]

A little to the S. of Kilmarnock,
and on the opposite bank of the
Irvine, is the village of Riccarton,
M'here Wallace is said to have spent
many of his younger days at the
farm of an uncle.



95 m. Steioarton Stat. (3 m. from
the town), a wretched place, where
the manufacture of cowls and High-
land bonnets is carried on. The
district of Dunlop is famous for its
cheeses. Ruius of numerous border
towers, which belonged to the Cun-
ninghams.

102 m. Dairy Junction Stat., where
the line from Ayr to Glasgow joins
the main line. Coach to Parton
Stat.

In the neighbourhood is a cave,
on the farm of Auchinskeifh, in the
course of the Dusk water, which has
been formed in one of the limestones.
This stream aff"ords to the geologist
many interesting sections of the car-
boniferous limestone series of Ayr-
shire.

For the remaining

23 m. to Glasgow Terminus, see
Rtes. 12 and 16.



ROUTE 10.

Dumfries to Portpatrick, by Cas-
tle-Douglas, Newton-Stewart,
"Wigtown, and Stranraer.-
Caledonian Kly.

804 111- ri^'6 through trains in 5
hrs. ; single line, liable to constant
delays.

Quitting the stat. at Dumfries
(Rte. 9), this r\y. winds round the IST.
of the town, crosses the Nith near
Lincluden, and skirts

14 m. Maxifelltown Stat., a suburb
of Dumfries (Rte. 9), celebrated for
its cloth works (Tweeds). On right
is Terregles (Rte. 9), the family seat
of the Maxwells (Lords Herries),
where Queen Mary stayed before her
embarkation for England. Lord
Herries was her close adherent, and
a cunning politician. The house is
modern, and built of red freestone.
The gardens are very charming,
and abound in terraces and clipped
hedges.



102



Route 10. — Dumfries to PortpatricJc. Sect. I.



A little to tlie S. of J^laxwelltown
is Corbelly Hill, with an observatory
on the top, from -which there is a
charming view of Dumfries. The
line, passing through a cutting in
the Permian breccia, gets into the
hilly districts by the time it reaches

54 m. Lochanhcad, to tlie right of
which, 1 m., is Loch Rutton.

8 m. Killyichan Stat., from whence
there is a mountain-road, practicable
for carriages, past Loch Arthur, and
down the valley of Kew Abbe}^ Water
to the picturesque ruins of New
Abbey, 6 m. (Rte. 9).

10 m. Kirlcgunzcon Stat. This
name probably means "the clmrcli
of extreme unction." In the neigh^
bourhood are the ruined towers of
Drumcoltran and Corra, the latter
an old seat of the Maxwells. The
mountains on the left begin to
assume a more formidable height, the
principal ones being Cuil Hill, 1377
ft, and Hard Hill, 1335 ft., leading
up to the main elevation of Criffel,
1867 ft.

12 m., near Southiuick Stat., is
Barclosh, an old seat of the Herries
family, overlooking the stream of
Kirkgunzeon Lane.

14 m. Dalbeattie Stat. {Inn : JMax-
well Arms, post-horses and carriages
good) ; a prettily situated thriving
town in the valley of the Urr. The
population (2000) employed in various
works and mills, paper, iron, etc.,
but principally dependent on the
granite quarries, which are in good
repute with engineers, having fur-
nished stone for the Thames Em-
bankment, and many of the largest
docks in the kingdom. Messrs.
Newall and Co. have extensive works,
in which monuments, pillars, win-
dow frames, etc., are polished and
turned out quite as good as those
from Aberdeen.

2 m. to the S. , on the right bank
of the Urr, is Munches (Wellwood
H. Maxwell, Esq.), a fine granite man-



sion, rebuilt after having been struck
by lightning in 1868 and burnt down,
in a beautiful park above the wind-
ing Urr. The grounds abound with
tine trees, pines, etc. The name
probably originates with the MonTcSy
its former owners. From Dalbeattie
it is a pleasant drive of 10 m. to
Dundrennan Abbey (Rte. 10a) by
Auchencass.

The rly. passes 1. the granite
quarries, etc. , in Craig Nair. About
3 m. rt. the remarkable earthwork
the Moot of Urr, a very perfect cir-
cular mound surrounded by a deep
trench, and standing on a wide plat-
form also inclosed within a fosse. In
Celtic days it was probably used as a
seat of justice and place of council.
From Dalbeattie the line turns
northward, crossing the Urr, and
passes close by the Moot to

20 m. Castle- Douglas Junct. Stat.
{Inns : Douglas Arms ; Commer-
cial), a busy country town (chief
town of Galloway), with a good
market, well situated on the N. side
of CarlingvKtrk Loch, which has a
number of small wooded islands
upon it. Formerly a causeway led
from the shore to one of these islands,
from which fact Castle-Douglas was
once called Causeway End. At the
S. end of the Loch is a place called
the Gallows Plot, from the execu-
tions that used to take place there
when the district belonged to the
Douglas family. About 3 m. to
the S., on Gelston Burn, is Gelston
Castle (C. Maitland Kirwan, Esq. )

14 m. to the E., on an island of
the Dee, unapproachable by land
except in very dry weather, is Threave
Cattle, long the headquarters of the
Douglas family ; afterwards of the
Earls of Nithsdale. It consists of one
large gloomj^ tower, with a small
courtyard in front, and entrance
guarded b}" small turrets. Over the
doorway is a projecting block of
granite, called the " hanging stone,"
or *' gallows knob," which the



S. Scotland. Route 10. — Parton; New Galloivay.



103



Douglas used to boast " never wanted
its tassel. " Threave witnessed some
bloody scenes, and none more so
than the murder of Sir Patrick
M'Lellan by the Earl of Douglas,
who captured him by bribing Sir
Patrick's warder by the promise of a
ladleful of gold. Wlien the traitor
claimed his reward, tlie Earl, with a
grim humour, caused the gold to be
melted and poured down his throat.
The Earl finished his career by being
stabbed by the King in Stirling
Castle.

It is said that the gun called ]\[ons
Meg, now in the Castle of Edin-
burgh, was made here, for the pur-
pose of reducing Threave Castle,
when besieged by James II. in 1451 ;
and, in confirmation of the story,
several large stone balls have been
found here, too big for the ordinary
artillery of the day.

Branch Railway to Kirkcudhririht;
coach thence to Gatehouse (Rte.
10a).

The rly. from Castle-Douglas to
Portpatriek makes a wide circuit, so
as to come within reach of New Gal-
loway. It first of all runs N.W.,
passing right Greenlaw and Danevale
Park, and approaching close to the
Dee at

23 1 m. Crossmichaxl Stat. There
is a ch. here dedicated to the Arch-
angel, but no traces, traditional or
material, of his cross. On the oppo-
site side of the river, which here be-
comes broad, is Balmaghie Ch., 25
m. The lower end of Loch Ken
comes in sight at

27 m. Parton Stat. Coach to
Dairy.

Nearly opposite the village the
Ken joins the Dee, the latter np to
this point being mnch the smaller
stream, although it gives its name to
the nnited river. The lower end of
Loch Ken is crossed by a viaduct
near the wooded knoll of Nether
Airds, There is a ferry-boat here
for carriages and horses, but the



best way for the pedestrian will be
to cross by the rly. bridge. On left
of the line is Hensol, the seat of R.
D. B. Cuninghame, Esq.

29 m. Keiv Galloivay Stat. [Coach
to the town upwards of 5 m. distant,
the road thither keeping the W.
bank of Loch Ken, under the pic-
turesquely wooded slopes of Cairn
Edward, 1060 ft. Overlooking the
head of the lake is Kenmure Castle
(Hon. Mrs. Bellamy-Gordon), on a
lofty mound, and approached by a
splendid avenue. The older parts of
it belong to the 15th centy., and the
modern, which may be 2 centuries
later, are well adapted to them. The
title of Kenmure, first gi-anted by
Charles I. to Sir John Gordon, was
forfeited in 1716, when the 7th Vis-
count was executed for high treason.
It was revived in favour of his grand-
son, but has again become extinct.

5 m. Neio Galloway {Inn : Ken-
mure Arms) is a Parliamentary
borough, with a pop. of 440, and a
constituency of 65, although no more
than a village on the right bank of
the Ken, which is crossed higher up
by a bridge of 5 arches. The scenery
in the neighbourhood of Glen Ken
is extremely l>retty, and will well
repay the pedestrian, who will find
in an excursion hence to Dalmelling-
ton some of the most desolate scenery
in the S. of Scotland.

The traveller is now in the very
heart of Galloway, the name of a
district, including Carrick, or the S.
division of Ayrshire, with Wigtown-
shire and Kirkcudbrightshire. The
latter county is called a Stewartry,
from the fact that when the posses-
sions of the Balliols and their vassals
were forfeited, the whole district
fell into the possession of the Crown,
and was put under the authority of
a royal steward.

From New Galloway a road runs
to Dairy, 8 m., on each side of the
Ken, that on the "VV. passing Glen-
lee, the prettily-wooded park of Well-



104



Route 10. — Dumfries to Stranraer.



Sect. I.



wood Maxwell, Esq. ; and on the W.
passing Holme House, situated on
the romantic banks of the little river
Carple.

The valley narrows above Dairy,
and assumes more of a Highland
character as the road approaches 16
m. the village of Carsphairn, sur-
rounded on either side by hills, vary-
ing in height from 1000"to 1700 ft.

The pedestrian should here leave
the road and stiike W. up into the
mountains called the Kells range.
Ascending to the watershed he will
look doAvn upon Loch Loon and a
wide amphitheatre of some of the
wildest hills in the S. of Scotland. He
can either descend to the head of the
loch, whence a good road will take
him to Dalmelliugton, or he may re-
turn to Carsphairn.

25 m. Dalmelliugton (Rte. 12).]



New Galloicay to Stroanaid.

Crossing the end of Loch Stroan
by another A^aduct, the rly. passes
through a country so desolate that
after Drummox there is no stat. for
13 m. Loch Skerro^v is another con-
siderable lake on right, just before
arriving at the Water of Fleet, a
stream rising in the fine range of
Cairnsnioor of Fleet, 2612 ft., one of
the loftiest mountains in Galloway.

43 m. Creetov:n Stat., on a height,
is built of a mosaic of boulder stones
— granites, shites, greywacke. You
may study geology in its walls. (1
m. rt. below lies the town, a small
port at the mouth of the Cree, which,
together with the Bladenoch river,
forms the estuary of Wigtown Bay,
the Jena ^Estuarium of the Eomans.
Burns has immortalised the former
river by his beautiful little ballad,
"The Banks of Cree : "—

" And let us all our vows renew

Along the flowing banks of Cree."

In the manse of Kirkmahreck was
born, 1778, Dr. Thomas Brown, the
distinguished Professor of Moral



Philosophy in Edinburgh, 1818-
1819. He is buried in the old ch.-
yd. There are fine gi-anite quarries
on the E. shore of Wigtown Bay,
about 2 m. S. of Creetown, which
have supplied some of the stone of
which the Liverpool docks are built.
The rly. skirts the N. shore of Wig-
town Bay by the banks of the Cree,
which it crosses.

46| m. Palnure Stat., where the
line crosses the Palnure Water.

[A pleasant drive may be taken up
the Palnure Water (right bank),
along the New Galloway Road, to
the Murray Moniiment, a granite
obelisk erected in a commanding
position by Mrs. Stewart of Cairns-
more in memory of Dr. Alexander
Murray, a celebrated linguist and
professor of Oriental languages in
the University of Edinburgh. He
was the son of a shepherd at Dun-
kitterick, and educated at Minnigaff
parish school, a striking example of
the pursuit of knowledge under
difficulties.

A little before reaching the monu-
ment, on right, is a rocking-stone.
Beyond it, on left, the stream makes
a series of pretty falls, known as the
Grey Mare's Tail.]

The rly. now runs up the vallej'- of
the Cree to

50 m. Neiaton-Stewai't Junct. Stat.
{Inns : Galloway Arms, in the main
street ; Crown, near stat.), it con-
sists of a straggling street about 1
m. in length (2470 inhab.), well
seen from the bridge over the
Cree, and has a cheerful aspect.
The modern Church, which is
in the parish of Pennihghame, Avhere
the bishops of Galloway originally
had their palace, has a lofty spire ;
and the town-hall has a tower and
cupola. The Eicart Institute, an
educational establishment founded
by a gentleman of that name, for
poor children, is a modern Gothic
building on a height, near the ch.

[There is a beautiful excursion up by



S. Scotland. Route 10. — Dumfries to Stranraer.



105



the Cree to Loch Trool (12 m.),
leaving rt. the pretty village and ch.
tower of Minnigaft", and passing by
Penninghame — E. J. Stopford Blair,
Esq. — who has built an elegant
Gothic Ejnscopal Ch. Higher up, on
the left bank of the Penkell, among
very rich woods, is Cumloden (one of
the projjerties given by the Bruce to
three widows' sons), a shooting-box
of the Earl of Galloway. The ivied
ruins of Garlies Castle are in the
woods beyond.

The valley, finely wooded and en-
livened by the windings of the Cree,
presents a succession of j^leasing
scenes, until at 9 m. the river is
crossed at the upper bridge of the
Cree, and an open country is tra-
versed to reach Loch Trool (3 miles),
where Lord Galloway has another
shooting-box in the midst of the
moors, surrounded by a pretty garden,
with hedges of fuchsias and other
delicate plants, which testify to the
mildness of the climate. The loch
is a narrow sheet of water, beautifully
broken by wooded promontories, and
lying embosomed in lofty hills, which
rise precipitously on the E. side, pre-
senting some of the highest and most
rugged ground in the S. of Scot-
land. A good road all the way.
There is a boat on the lake, from
which the best view is gained. Here
the English force was nearly de-
stroyed by Robert Bruce and his
men rolling down huge stones on
the enemy as they marched along
the bank of the lake below. At the
S. end are some Covenanters' graves.
From the head of Loch Trool the
pedestrian can cross the dividing
ridge and descend Loch Dee, a
splendid walk.

The Minnigaff range on the W.
of the valley of the Cree is much
more broken in outline and more
picturesque than that of Cairnsmore,
and affords glorious rambling ground
for the pedestrian, with magnificent
views. E. of Newton Stewart, close
to the bridge, is Kirrouchtree, the



seat of the Eev. W. JMaxwell Heron.
At his gate is the notice — No en-
trance except on business.

The Ely. is now open to Wigtown,
and runs through a cultivated but
uninteresting country to

7 m. Wigtown {Inn : Queen's
Arms). An obelisk stands on
high ground at the entrance of
Wigtown, commemorating the fate
of two female Covenanters, Margaret
M'Lauchlan (an old woman) and
Margaret Wilson (a girl of 18), who
Avere said to have been tied to a
stake and drowned by the rising tide
of the Bladenoch river in 1685.
They were buried in the parish
churchyard below. Drowning was an



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